With summer quickly approaching, dogs are more likely to spend time in the yard and this makes them more prone to fire ant bites. The dog in this picture got recently stung and as you can see, there is some residual scar tissue to attest the encounter with the pesky fire ants. The name of these ants isn’t casual; when fire ants sting, they produce a toxic substance that is known for causing a burning sensation. Fortunately, in many cases the burning sensation is short-lived and dog owners can use a common household remedy to help reduce the pain and itch associated with these bites. So today’s trivia question is:
What makes an effective dog fire ant bite treatment?
A Apple cider vinegar
B Ginger root
C Epsom salts
D A paste of baking soda and water
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The correct answer is: drum roll please…
The correct answer is: D, a paste of baking soda and water.
Fire Ants and Dogs
Fire ants are common ants in the southern United States that belong to the genus solenopsis. These ants are typically red and are known for living in large mounds made of fluffy worked soil found in open areas. The ants are about 1/8″ to 1/4″ long, and when they are disturbed, they tend to gather and crawl up vertical surfaces nearby their mounds. Because these ants tend to live nearby lawns, in parks or playgrounds, active, inquisitive dogs are likely to encounter them at some point or another. Digging, sniffing and nosing around puts dogs at risk for fire ant bites.
Feels Like Fire
When the fire ants feel threatened, they will sting and inject a toxin called “solenopsin.” The burning sensation may cause a dog to lick the area. A dog’s paws and upper legs are areas commonly stung as the dog walks around and the irritated ants start climbing. Other vulnerable areas are the dog’s muzzle and belly area. Generally, within minutes dogs develop local irritation and swelling. Also, white vesicles or pustules may form.
“In clinical cases, discomfiture manifested by jumping back, running away, head shaking and rubbing of the paws was noted. ” (Nett, C., personal communication, 2004)
Dog Fire Ant Treatment
At the first signs of problems, it’s helpful to make a poultice of baking soda and water as this will help neutralize the sting, explains Amy D. Shojai in the book “The First Aid Companion for Dogs & Cats.” Simply mix one tablespoon of baking soda with enough water to form a thick paste and apply on the area making sure your dog doesn’t lick it off. If the area is a foot or paw, it may help to place a sock for about 20 minutes to ensure absorption. Antihistamines, such as plain Benadryl can be used for mild cases, but it’s best to consult with a vet on proper dosages.
“Make a thick paste of baking soda and water and apply it to the sting site. If your dog has multiple stings or bites, a soothing oatmeal bath is the way to go.” VCA Animal Hospitals
Signs of Problems
As with other types of bug bites and stings, there are risks for serious allergic reactions that may result in anaphylactic shock. Dogs who develop hives, facial swelling and trouble breathing should see the emergency vet at once.
Timing is of the essence here. According to the Merck Veterinary Manual death due to anaphylaxis may occur within minutes following the sting.
Disclaimer: this article is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog got stung and is exhibiting concerning symptoms, please see your vet for proper treatment.
References:
Skin Diseases of the Dog and Cat: Clinical and Histopathologic Diagnosis, By Thelma Lee Gross, Peter J. Ihrke, Emily J. Walder, Verena K. Affolter, Wiley-Blackwell; 2 edition (September 12, 2005)
The First Aid Companion for Dogs & Cats, By Amy D. Shojai, Rodale Pr (February 2001)
VCA Animals Hospitals, First Aid for Insect Stings in Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 31st, 2o16
Dog behavior can sometimes be prone to certain phenomena that can leave us wondering what may be going on. Let’s see if for today’s trivia you can help solve the mystery behind this case of a dog’s behavior that gets worse before getting better…
Becky owns a smart, five year old border collie mix who goes by the name of Sammy. Sammy has been going through a period of finickiness, not wanting to eat her kibble as usual. Becky, concerned about the behavior, started giving in and feeding her at the table some table scraps. Her vet though said that her dog just had a bout of stomach problems causing her to be finicky, but now that she is doing better, he recommends stop feeding the table scraps as she has already started gaining some pounds and has a sensitive tummy. He therefore tells her to start ignoring her begging behaviors and feed her exclusively a special prescription diet food.
The process of weaning off the table scraps isn’t one of the easiest tasks. With a history of getting table scraps for quite some time, Sammy’s behavior of begging at the table is quite established, but Becky is very determined in not giving in to her dog’s pleading eyes. The first day, Sammy stared at her with intent as usual, but Becky was determined and didn’t give anything. Now, Sammy’s begging behavior seems like they are getting worse, and Becky is starting to feel discouraged even doubt about her vet’s advice to ignore the begging. So today’s trivia question is:
What’s the name of the phenomenon that’s likely behind the worsening of this behavior?
A Incidental Training
B Determinism
C Extinction Burst
D Potentiation Effect
The correct answer is: drum roll please…
The correct answer is: C, an extinction burst.
A Lesson in Etymology
The word “extinction burst” may sound like an odd term that can bring to mind animals that no longer exist or some sort of explosion, but it’s quite an effective term in depicting what is going on once we take a closer look at what it entails. Chances are high that if you own a dog, at some time or another, you may have witnessed this phenomenon.
The word “extinction” comes from the ancient Latin word extinctus, which is the past participle of extinguere which means “to put out, destroy, abolish, extinguish.” The word burst, on the other paw, comes from the Old English word berstan which means to “break suddenly, shatter under pressure.”
Extinguishing Dog Behavior
When it comes to dogs, undesirable behaviors are often what people ask for help with. Dog owners may wish to “stop” certain attention-seeking behaviors from occurring such as begging at the table, jumping, pawing or barking at their owners when bored. Before discovering extinction bursts, let’s first see what happens when a behavior is in the process of extinguishing.
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In psychology, the term extinction is used to the phenomenon where a behavior with a history of reinforcement no longer yields the reinforcing consequences. We know that certain dog behaviors are fueled by attention, so if your bored dog barks at you when you are sitting on the couch and you get up and play with him, your attention will have fueled (the correct term would be reinforced) the barking behavior. The attention given quite often thus allows the barking behavior to stay alive, fueling it like oxygen does to a fire and preventing it from extinguishing.
Introducing the Extinction Burst
In the midst of the process of the behavior extinguishing, one may stumble on an extinction burst. What exactly is an extinction burst? According to the Association of Animal Behavior Professionals, an extinction burst consists of “an initial increase in the rate of responding following the instatement of extinction.”
In the case of the dog’s begging behavior getting worse, it’s therefore undergoing an extinction burst as the owner is no longer, “feeding” the behavior. In the case of the dog barking for attention, the barking gets more persistent and louder.
We can see the same phenomenon in humans. Here’s a practical, real life example. A mom always gives in and buys candy for her child when she cries when visiting the grocery store. Then one day the child’s dentist notices the candy is ruining the child’s teeth. So from the next day, no more candy. The child cries, and cries and cries throwing a temper tantrum but mom is determined not to give in.
What happens though after several day in a row of not buying candy? The behavior of crying gets temporarily worse but then eventually extinguishes just like a fire that is deprived from oxygen.
Extinction Burst: “A characteristic of extinction. If a previously reinforced behavior is not reinforced, the animal will increase the intensity or frequency of the behavior in an attempt to earn the reinforcement again. If the behavior is not reinforced it will diminish again after an extinction burst.”~ Karen Pryor Academy Glossary
What’s Likely Happening
What’s behind an extinction burst? The worsening of the behavior is likely a build-up of frustration/motivation due to the lack of reinforcement. It’s as if the dog is saying “Hey, what’s up? Usually when I look at you eating you slip me a slice of turkey, what’s going on today? I am here, see me?” Or in the case of the dog barking for attention “Yo! Bark, bark, bark, what part of my bark you don’t understand? You always play with me when I bark! I’ll bark louder so you pay attention to me!” Or in the case of the child “Mom, I want candy! You always got me candy, I want candy! Get me candy! Nooooowwww!”
Interestingly, during an extinction burst the behavior may not only increase and become more insistent, but variability may also set in under the form of new behaviors added into the mix. The dog who has always begged at the table by looking at the owner with pleading eyes, may now start also pawing or barking. The dog who has always barked to get the owner to play may now start jumping on the owner as he ignores him. The child who has always cried to get candy, may now stomp her feet on the ground and scream. According to Pierce & Cheney, 2004 , this change in behavior is called “resurgence.”
“Resurgence: The increase in topographic variability during extinction after a period of reinforcement…”~ (Pierce & Cheney, 2004). “
Tip: When the extinction burst happens, it might feel frustrating for dog owners to witness and it may be tempting to get mad at the animal and correct him. Instead, it’s very important to understand what is going on and be appreciative for the animal trying hard to overcome “their mental road blocks.”
Persistence is Key
When dog owners stumble on the extinction burst they may start doubting and wonder if their behavior modification program is truly working. “The vet told me to ignore the behavior, but the begging is getting worse, maybe it’s time to change protocol?” Changing protocol though could be a big mistake. The fact an extinction burst takes place is a sign that what is being done is actually working! A little more persistence in further ignoring the behavior will therefore likely yield to extinction.
The worst thing one can do during an extinction burst is giving in such as buying the child candy when he’s throwing the temper tantrum just to shut him up. This would fuel the behavior even more than before, turning it into a bigger fire that is always more and more difficult to extinguish! Next time, you can bet when the child doesn’t get candy, he’ll be turning into a scaled down version of the Incredible Hulk!
Not Always a Bad Thing!
Extinction bursts are not always a bad thing! First and foremost, as we have seen, if you are trying to extinguish an unwanted behavior, the extinction burst is a good sign, meaning that things are progressing and that after the hill, if you persist in not reinforcing it, you’ll likely have a smooth road ahead. Terry Ryan, dog trainer and author of the book “Coaching people to train their dogs” likes to tell her clients when they stumble on their first extinction bursts and get discouraged: “Great! He got worst! That means extinction is working!”So if you continue withholding reinforcement, the behavior will eventually weaken and eventually vanish.
Adding Motivation/Intensity
On top of this, extinction bursts can also be used to your advantage in training your dog. So let’s say you are trying to train a behavior, but you want to see more motivation or variability. In the case of increasing motivation, let’s imagine we are training our dog to do attention heeling, where the dog looks up at you while walking. We reward the dog for looking up at us quite often while walking, we have been doing this for some time, but at some point, we want our dog to look to be a bit more motivated so to create a flashier looking heeling. So we stop rewarding as often. The dog at some point may look at us with more motivation. This is when we want to lavishly praise and reward! We can see an example of this increase in motivation in the video below.
Adding Variability
As mentioned, extinction bursts can also be helpful to add variability. So let’s say, you want to train your dog to play the piano using his paws, but your dog is using his nose all the time. After rewarding nose touches every single time for a while, you stop rewarding them. Your dog at this point may get a tad bit frustrated, and wonder what’s up since he’s no longer being rewarded. “Hey! Don’t you see me? I am using my nose to play! Look at me, see me? I’ll do it again, and press even more!”
At some point though your dog may think of trying something else to gain reinforcement, perhaps something he has done in the past that has gained it. So he might at some point decide to use his paws. Bingo! “You click and reward the behavior. In the meanwhile, your dog may think something along the terms of “Aha! so this is the behavior that now gains a reward!” and soon your dog is on his way to playing with his paws more and more.
Warning: removing reinforcement too early in training or with dogs who are inhibited and tentative in offering variable behaviors may discourage them and cause them to give up rather than trying harder!
Here’s an Example of Extinction Burst, where during the second half of the video, the dog being reinforced less often than before, starts working harder when pulling the laundry out and pushing it into the owner’s hand!
References:
Association of Animal Behavior Professionals, Glossary, retrieved from the web on May 24th, 2016
Karen Pryor, Click Training Terms, retrieved from the web on May 24th, 2016
Legacy Canine; 2 edition (January 1, 2008) Coaching People to Train Their DogsPaperback– January 1, 2008
There’s a small bump on the roof of a dog’s mouth that is normal part of a dog’s anatomy, but for those who are not aware of it, such appearance can cause concern. It’s one of the main reasons dog owners schedule a panic appointment to see the vet, explains veterinarian Dr. Truli on his website VirtuaVet. Dog owners who notice this bump the very first timeworry as they start thinking about mouth cancers which can often be very aggressive. While it’s good practice to have the vet always check any unusual lumps and bumps, this little bump in the roof of the dog’s mouth is in most cases perfectly normal. So today’s trivia question is:
What’s the exact name of this bump?
A Gum boil
B Epulis
C Incisive papilla
D Oral papilloma
The correct answer is: drum roll please….
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The correct answer is C, the incisive papilla.
All Dogs Have It
Dog owners may casually stumble upon a dog’s incisive papilla one day when their dog is lying down belly up with his mouth open. From this angle, the incisive papilla, which is located at the top of the roof of the dog’s mouth, may become easily visible. To be exact, in a normal, healthy dog, the incisive papilla is located right behind the dog’s top two middle teeth.
The bump may feel hard to touch and some describe it as vaguely resembling a little diamond in shape. Because a picture is worth 100 words, seeing it is far better than describing it in words, so on the left you can see a picture of it along with the dog’s palateal rugae.
Related to Scent
What’s the purpose of this little bump on the roof of the dog’s mouth? Mother Nature hasn’t placed it there just because. The incisive papilla actually has something to do with a dog’s sense of smell. Within this small bump there is a small duct which connects the dog’s nose with his mouth. Basically, it turns out that the dog’s incisive papilla is able to communicate with the vomeronasal organ, a special organ meant for detecting pheromones, substances left behind by certain animals for communicative purposes and that have an impact on the animal on the receiving end.
Horses, deer and goats, upon detecting pheromones, exhibit a distinct lip curl that is known as “flehem.” In a similar fashion, dogs have their own way to analyze pheromones. According to the book “Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat” by Gary M. Landsberg, Wayne L. Hunthausen and Lowell J. Ackerman, by panting and flicking their tongue against the incisive papilla dogs are better able to detect pheromones. The tongue flicks can also be accompanied by teeth chattering and foaming at the mouth. Once the information (at a molecular level) reaches the dog’s brain (the amygdala to be precise), it can trigger an emotional or physiological response.
Problems to Become Aware Of
Normally, the incisive papilla quietly sits there without creating any problems, but there may be times where things can become slightly problematic. In the case of a malocclusion, where the dog’s teeth do not do not align correctly, the lower teeth may end up hitting the roof of the dog’s mouth. According to Animal Dentistry and Oral Surgery Specialists LLC, this may cause the incisive papilla to swell. It’s always good practice to get used to the normal appearance of the dog’s mouth so that dog owners can promptly report to their vet any odd looking lumps or bumps in the dog’s mouth.
References:
“Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat” by Gary M. Landsberg, Wayne L. Hunthausen and Lowell J. Ackerman, Saunders Ltd.; 3 edition (December 28, 2012)
Animal Dentistry and Oral Surgery Specialists, The Oral Exam of Cats, Dogs, Rabbits and Rodents, retrieved from the web on May 17th, 2016
Virtua Vet, Top Five Panic Appointments (That Don’t Have to Be…) retrieved from the web on May 17th, 2016
It’s one of those curious behaviors dogs do: you give them a nice belly rub and they start kicking or shaking their rear leg, what gives? Many dog owners have been wondering what is going on when their dogs start moving their leg upon being scratched. While the possible reason why this happens has been extensively studied for many years, despite decades of research, certain key aspects of this leg-kicking behavior still remain unknown. Today we’re discovering what’s likely behind this mysterious behavior, but before we do that, here’s our trivia question of the day!
Why do dogs start kicking their legs when you pet them?
A: It’s a way for the dog to push you away so to make you stop
B: It’s an involuntary reflex that activates when you pet certain areas
C: It’s a way for the dog to exercise his rear leg muscles
D: It’s a voluntarily action. The dog is trying to take over the task of scratching.
The correct answer is: drum roll please……..
The correct answer is: B, it’s a reflex that is activated when you pet certain areas.
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The Dog’s Scratch Reflex
So why do dogs pump their legs when you rub their tummies? Turns out it is a reflex, basically an involuntary mechanism that occurs as a response to a stimulus, and thus, happens without conscious thought. In layman terms, your dog can’t control it, he just gotta do it. One of the first people to be intrigued by this reflex was a certain Sir Charles Sherrington, an English neurophysiologist who decided to study this reflex more closely. Sherrington was very interested in anything that involved reflexes and neurological activity and his many studies helped us attain a better understanding of the central nervous system. Thank you, Sir Sherrington!
Location, Location, Location
One main questions to ask, if why does this reflex activate only when the dog is scratched over a certain area? Those back legs after all do not seem to give any signs of moving or kicking when the dog is scratched on the top of the head or in the chest area!
All the surface of the dog’s skin is covered by many sensory neurons that are activated by stimulation, but there is a specific area in particular that seems to activate the scratch reflex. According to J. E. R. Staddon, author of the book “Adaptive Behavior and Learning,“this specific saddle-shaped area is called the”receptive field of the reflex” and touching a spot within this area may therefore elicit the dog’s involuntary scratch reflex.
Why Just There?
Why is only this area triggering this behavior compared to other areas of the body? Here’s one possible explanation. The scratch reflex may have an adaptive purpose of ridding the animal from fleas or other dangerous parasites in an area (the flanks) that isn’t highly mobile as say, the tail or the dog’s front or hind legs. The scratch reflex therefore may allow the dog to quickly attempt to remove the stimulus by using his rear leg.
Anther theory comes from the book “Why Do Dogs Drink Out of the Toilet?” by Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori. According to the book, the upper part of the dog’s flanks or on the belly are areas where fleas tend to congregate, so those leg kicks are likely an effective means for pest control. Mother Nature’s version of an automatic fly swatter.
A Matter of Timing
As seen, the scratch reflex is one of those fascinating things dogs do that are quite interesting to discover! Why though would it be a reflex and not a conscious, voluntary movement? Dr. Lore Haug, a board-certified veterinary behaviorists thinks it’s a matter of urgency. In an article for Popular Science, she compares it to our reflex of withdrawing our hand from a hot stove.
” Let’s say you touch a hot stove, and before your brain recognizes it’s painful, the spinal cord recognizes the pain, and you involuntarily jerk your hand back. If you had to wait until your conscious brain recognized something was in danger, your delay in reaction time could cause an injury or even death in some cases.” ~Dr. Lore Haug
Some Interesting Findings
Sherrington’s studies, have revealed some quite interesting findings about the scratch reflex. Following are some interesting phenomena he has observed in his studies.
The Latency Period. When you touch a spot in the dog’s receptive field of reflex, you may notice how the leg kicking action may not start immediately. Why is that? Even though the reflex might be faster than voluntary movement, there’s still a small delay. According to Sherrington’s studies, this slight delay tends to happen because it may take a teeny bit of time for the nervous signal to travel from the superficial skin receptors all the way to the muscles of the dog’s leg responsible for start the leg-kicking action. Sherrington decided to call this brief delay “latency.”
The Warm Up. Sherrington also noticed how the scratch reflex in dogs involves also a warm-up period. He mentions that when the leg kicking action begins, it doesn’t reach a maximum level of intensity right away, but rather, it builds up in intensity gradually. The first leg kicks therefore consist of slight sweeping motions compared to the broader ones occurring a bit later.
The After Discharge. Just as there is a latency period, a brief delay before the kicking-leg action takes place, there is an after discharge moment, where the leg licking still occurs despite you stop scratching your dog. Basically, upon removing your hand, you may noticed that your dog keeps moving a leg for a little bit.
Fatigue. Reflexes may be prone to a phenomenon known as fatigue. If a stimulus applied by the dog’s flank is not removed, after a few leg-kicking movements, the behavior slowly dies off until the dog stops moving the leg. This is sign that something in the system is clearly fatigued and that it can take a bit of recovery time to elicit the leg moving action again. This can occur because the leg muscles involved in leg -kicking action are simply exhausted or the sense organs are tired out and they no longer detect the stimulus, suggests Peter J.B. Slater in the book “Essentials of Animal Behaviour.“
Intrigued by all this? Watch the Scratch Reflex in Action! Did you notice the warm-up period?
References:
Essentials of Animal Behaviour, By Peter J. B. Slater, Cambridge University Press; 1 edition (May 28, 1999)
Why Do Dogs Drink Out of the Toilet? By Marty Becker, D.V.M., Gina Spadafori, HCI (September 15, 2006)
Adaptive Behavior and LearningHardcover– November 25, 1983 by J. E. R. Staddon, Cambridge University Press (November 25, 1983)
The Integrative Action of the Nervous System, By Sir Charles Scott Sherrington, Andesite Press (August 8, 2015)
Popular Science, Why Does My Dog Scratch When I Scratch his Belly, by Loren Grush, retrieved from the web on May 10th, 2016
A dog’s skin is thinner and much more sensitive than ours, states the Merck Veterinary Manual. Some of us may find this surprising, but turns out, our skin is three times thicker than our dogs’ and our pH is different too, which is why we shouldn’t use human shampoo for our dogs, explains Karen L. Campbell, a veterinarian specializing in dermatology in the book “The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases.” On the other hand though, dogs have a coat, so there seems to be a convenient trade-off: generally, the more hair, the thinner the outer layer of skin. While our dogs may have thinner skin compared to us, there’s an area of the dog’s body where the skin is much tougher compared to the dog’s other areas, so our trivia question for the day is the following:
Can you name where a dog’s toughest skin is located?
A The nose
B The neck
C The paw pads
D The abdomen
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The correct answer is…..
The correct answer is C, the paw pads
Ever wondered how dogs are able to walk in the snow, hot pavement or over the hard surfaces such as asphalt without having to wear shoes? This is all courtesy of those tough paw pads. Sure, if we were to walk barefoot for most of our lives, the skin on the bottom of our feet would surely toughen, but until the day we decide to ditch our shoes, we will be prone to have softer feet with more delicate soles. Other than protecting a dog’s feet from abrasive surfaces and hot and cold temperatures, a dog’s paw pads act as shock absorbers for all the bones, tendons and ligaments found on the dog’s legs
A Lesson in Anatomy
Notice the smoother center and more prominent papillae on the edges.
What does a dog’s paw pad anatomy look like? The skin on a dog’s paw pads is extra thick and not found in any other area of the dog’s body. It’s made of layers of insulating fat and connective tissue making them the perfect version of Mother Nature’s insoles.
The outermost layer is the one we’re most familiar with, it’s called the stratum corneum and it’s the hairless pigmented layer we see when we look at our dog’s paws.
If you ever looked at your dog’s paw pads very closely, you might have noticed how the outermost layer is made of small conical papillae. These papillae are made to add further protection.
You may have also noticed how the central surface of your dog’s pads may be smooth compared to the outer edges. This is from long-term walking on rough surfaces such as concrete. The smoothness is due to the conical papillae being flattened rather than conical due to abrasion, while the papillae on the edge remain conical.
Dogs who tend to walk more on hard surfaces and are older tend to generally have tougher paw pads than dogs used to walking in grass and carpet and who are younger.
Did you know? A dog’s foot pads contain many blood vessels which is why they tend to bleed easily when injured.
Strong But Not Invincible
While a dog’s paw pads are pretty tough and able to withstand the many miles dogs put on their feet, consider though that this doesn’t mean you can walk your dog over hot asphalt or over ice melt without having any problems.
A dog’s paw pads can be prone to cracks, abrasions, ulcers and blisters when exposed to heat and cold, harsh surfaces and chemicals.
Most commonly, the dog’s outer layer of skin, the stratum coneum sloughs off, exposing a raw layer of skin that is very sensitive and can take even weeks to properly heal.
In nature, injuries to a canine’s feet can have deleterious effects and may strongly incapacitate these cursorial animals who need to run to hunt for prey and run away from predators. Luckily, in a domesticated setting, we can take care of our dogs providing them food and resting their feet which gives time for their paw pads to heal.
Paw pads are prone to heal slowly because they’re more exposed to contaminated surfaces, dogs need to walk on them and dogs are prone to further aggravate the area through persistent licking and chewing. Fortunately, we can do a whole lot in preventing injuries from occurring in the first place such as inspecting a dog’s paw pads on a routine basis after exercising on rough surfaces and avoiding temperature extremes or exposure to chemicals and irritants. Also, keeping a dog lean will help put less pressure on the toes and joints so the dog is “lighter on his feet.”
Did you know? Because the tissues on a dog’s paw pads is highly specialized and has precise functions, it’s irreplaceable, and therefore cannot be replaced from other skin from the body, explains Dr. Tannaz Amalsadvala, a graduate of the Bombay Veterinary College in Bombay, India.
References:
Laboratory Manual for Comparative Veterinary Anatomy & Physiology, By Phillip E. Cochran, M.S., D.V.M, Delmar Cengage Learning; 2 edition (April 12, 2010)
Laboratory Manual for Clinical Anatomy and Physiology for Veterinary Technicians, By Thomas P. Colville, Joanna M. Bassert, ISBN-13:9780323294751 Publisher:Elsevier Health Sciences
“The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases” by Karen L. Campbell DVM MS DAVCVIM DACVD, Saunders; 1 edition (November 14, 2005)
DVM360,Paw tissues unique; injuries need special care, attention, By Tannaz Amalsadvala, B.V.Sc. & A.H., MS retrieved from the web on May 3rd, 2016.
Merck Veterinary Manual, Description and Physical Characteristics of Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 3rd, 2016.
Lloyd, DH and Garthwaite, G (1982) Epidermal structure and surface-topography of canine skin. Research in veterinary care, 33 (1). pp. 99-104.
Sometimes dog breeds may closely resemble each other making them difficult to tell apart, and the Siberian husky and Alaskan malamute are often two dog breeds that are easily confused. Let’s first take a glance at their similarities: they are both Nordic breeds with a history of pulling sleds, they both have a wolfish appearance, and they are both categorized by American Kennel Club under the working dog group. To untrained eyes, these dogs dog breeds may therefore look quite similar, but once you take a look at them side-by-side, you are more likely to notice their differences. So today’s trivia question is: what is one main difference between the Siberian husky and the Alaskan malamute?
A: The Malamute is larger than the Siberian husky
B: The Malamute has a double coat while the Siberian husky has a single coat
C: The Malamute has blue eyes while the Siberian husky has brown
D: The Malamute has a tail that is always carried on the back while the husky always keeps it low
The correct answer is…. drum roll please!
The correct answer is: A, the Malamute is larger than the Siberian husky.
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Differences between the Siberian Husky and the Alaskan Malamute
On top of being of a different size, there are some other differences between the Siberian husky and the Alaskan malamute that are worthy of pointing out. While it may be difficult telling these two breeds apart when you see one specimen one day and then the other on another day, once you put these two breeds side-by-side the differences among them become much more evident. So first let’s take a look at the main differences and then let’s put them together so that we can have better picture of a Siberian husky vs. an Alaskan Malamute.
A Matter of Size
One of the most relevant differences between the Siberian Husky and the Alaskan Malamute is size. The Alaskan malamute, the largest of all the arctic sled dogs, is quite massive when we compare the two and there is a good reason for this. While the Siberian husky is built to be quick and light on his feet so to carry light loads at fast speeds, the Alaskan malamute is instead built to be powerful so he can carry large loads at slow speeds and over long distances. Malamutes are therefore not designed for speed, but for endurance which is why there are heavy boned and have a well-muscled body; whereas the Siberian husky is lighter to the extent that any appearance of excessive bone is at risk for being penalized if we look at the Siberian husky breed standard. When looking at numbers, just consider that male Siberian huskies are expected to be 21 to 23½ inches tall at the withers with a weight ranging from 45 to 60 pounds, while the desirable male Alaskan malamutes freighting specimens are expected to be ideally 25 inches at the shoulders with a weight of 85 pounds.
A Look at the Ears
Another difference between the Siberian husky and Alaskan malamute is ear carriage. In the Siberian husky, the ears are expected to be triangular in shape with slightly rounded tips and they should be placed close to each other and set high on the head.
In the Alaskan malamute the ears are also triangular in shape with slightly rounded tips, but instead of being close to each other, they are set wide apart on the exterior edges of the skull, just lined up with the upper corners of the eyes. According to the American Kennel Club breed standard, when the ears of the Alaskan malamute are kept erect, they give the impression of standing off from the skull. Unlike the husky, high set ears are considered a fault in this breed.
A Look at the Eyes
Even the eyes in these two dog breeds are quite different. The Siberian husky has almond-shaped eyes that can be brown or blue in color. Sometimes huskies are seen with one brown eye and one blue one, a phenomenon known as complete heterochromia or they can have parti-colored eyes, a phenomenon known as sectoral heterochromia. Both instances are acceptable according to the Siberian husky standard.
The Alaskan malamute, on the other hand, is required to have almond eyes as well, but they must be strictly brown, the darker, the better. Contrary to the Siberian husky, in the Alaskan malamute breed having blue eyes is considered a disqualifying fault!
A Look at the Tail
Many people rely on the tail the distinguish a Siberian husky from an Alaskan malamute, but if you don’t know exactly what to look for, things can get a tad bit confusing. Some people will say that the malamute’s tail is up over the back and the husky’s tail is down, but both can carry them both ways based on how they feel, so let’s go more into detail. According to the Siberian husky’s standard, the tail should be well furred and of a fox-brush shape. When the husky is calm, it’s carried just below the level of the topline, but when the husky is attentive to something, it’s carried over the back in a graceful sickle curve. In the Alaskan malamute, the tail follows the line of the spine. Unlike the husky, the tail is well furred and is not supposed to be short furred like a fox brush. When the malamute is not working, the tail is carried over the back (but not curled tightly) and has the appearance of a waving plume.
A Look at the Coat
It’s true that both the Siberian husky and the Alaskan malamute may share some similar coat features, but they also have some differences. The Siberian husky has a double coat that is medium in length, never long, rough or shaggy. All husky coat colors from black to pure white are allowed and there may be a variety of facial markings. Malamutes also have a double coat that should not be long, but they have areas where the coat increases in length such as around the shoulders and neck, down the back, over the rump, on the hindquarters and the tail. When it comes to colors, malamutes may have a coat ranging from light gray to black, sable, and shadings of sable to red. A white blaze on the forehead or a cap over the head is desirable. Because the malamute is mantled, any uneven splashing or broken colors extending over the body is undesirable.
An Overall Look
As seen, the husky and the malamute are quite similar, but yet so different, especially when you put them side-by-side as in the picture above. And it’s not only looks! Temperament wise, the husky is known for being friendly and outgoing. The fact these dogs aren’t overly suspicious of strangers make them poor candidates as a guard dog. They tend to get along with other dogs and are escape artists. The malamute is also friendly and affectionate, loyal and playful. As this breed matures, it tends to develop a certain dignity.
Siberian husky vs Alaskan Malamute Video
References:
American Kennel Club, Alaskan Malamute breed standard, retrieved from the web on April 26th, 2016
American Kennel Club, Siberian Husky breed standard, retrieved from the web on April 26th, 2016
Photo Credits:
Alaskan malamute portrait., by Giardeto team – Own work, GFDL retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaskan_Malamute#/media/File:Alaskan_malamute_Togiak_Sausimayok.jpg
Alaskan Malamute Ch.Windchaser’s The Seventh Son, by SCMW – Own work, CC BY 3.0 retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaskan_Malamute#/media/File:Alaskan_Malamute.jpg
Siberian Husky – przykład umaszczenia (samica), by Kamil Korbik – My dog photos, CC BY-SA 3.0, retrieved from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Siberian_Husky?uselang=ja#/media/File:Siberian_Husky_-_fot._Kamil_Korbik_2007.jpg
Black and White Siberian Husky by Utopialand – self-made, GFDL, retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siberian_Husky#/media/File:Siberian-husky.jpg
There are pit bulls, and then there are blue nose pit bulls and red nose pit bulls. You may have stumbled on these “pit bull variations” in the past and may have been wondering what people mean exactly when they call their pit bulls this way. In many cases, a blue nose pit bull is referred to as if being superior from the average pit bull. You may have heard an owner proudly claim to own one, or perhaps you may have seen a breeder advertise his blue nose pits as if they were rare, “one of a kind” specimens that are consequently very valuable. Today’s trivia will focus on blue nose pit bulls, so our question of the week is:
What is a blue nose pit bull?
A) A very valuable dog.
B) A rare type of purebred pit bull
C) A distinct bloodline of pit bulls
D) The product of an astute marketing strategy.
The correct answer is: D. A blue-nosed pit bull is the product of a marketing ploy carried out by astute breeders.
First, What is a Pit Bull?
The word “pit bull” is really very generic and quite vague. It can mean different things depending on who you ask!
To the average Joe, a pit bull can be any dog with a square-shaped head and a bulky body, which can turn out being problematic especially when journalists report bite incidents causing the average mutts or other dog breeds to be mislabeled, promulgating the “pit bull” bad rap. Even experts at times have a hard time distinguishing different dog breeds from a pit bull. See how you score on this “find the pit bull” test. Don’t feel bad if you get it wrong; many people require several attempts to get it right!
On the other hand, according to the Pit Bull Rescue Central, the term “pit bull” is used to define one of three different dogs: the American Pit Bull Terrier (APBT), the American Staffordshire Terrier (AST) and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier (SBT). If things weren’t confusing enough, these three dogs are quite similar (they all originated from the same group of British dogs) with only slight differences in size. Even experts at times have a hard time distinguishing one from another. While these are technically, the same dogs, they have been bred for different purposes, but according to Bobbie Morehouse, member of the National American Pit Bull Terrier Association, despite sharing a common ancestry, the American Staffordshire Terrier has a smaller gene pool and therefore has more consistent looks; whereas, the American Pit Bull Terrier tends to vary more in size and appearance.
Finally, the Pit bulls Without Misinformation states that the only true pit bull is the American Pit Bull terrier because it’s the only breed that contains the word “pit bull” in it. Just like chow chow are called chows, doberman pinshers are called Doberman and Labradors retrievers are called Labs, American Pit Bull Terrier are known by their “Pit Bull” nickname.
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About Blue Noses
So what is a blue nose pit bull? We know that the average color of the nose in most dog breeds is black, but in the blue-nosed pit bull as the name implies, the color of the nose’s leather (skin) is blue.
A blue nose pit bull tends to have what is called “a blue coat.” Of course, these blues are not the type of electric blue or sky blue one thinks of when thinking about the blue color. In the dog world, it’s more like a grey color ranging from light silvery to deep charcoal.
When it comes to the blue coat color in dogs, it’s the result of a dilution of the color black. In order to attain a puppy with a blue coat and it’s associated blue nose, each parent must be carriers of the recessive dilution gene.
This means that breeders must use a narrow gene pools of dogs, often crossing dogs who are closely related genetically (inbreeding). It’s therefore very important to get these dogs from a breeder who knows what he’s doing to prevent genetic disorders.
On top of that, blue coats have been found to be more prone to skin problems. Because of this, some breeders are starting to put warnings about these implications associated with diluted coats on their websites.
Did you know? According to Coat Color Genetics, it’s genetically impossible for a blue dog to have a brown nose.
A Marketing Scam
Having a blue nose is not an indicator of belonging to any rare lineage and it is not it a sign of belonging to a different type of purebred pit bull breed. There are many pit bulls with noses of this color. If they were truly rare, there wouldn’t be so many breeders advertising them!
For the most part, the belief that blue nose pit bulls are rare derives from unscrupulous breeders attempting to make their blue-nosed dogs appear as valuable so they can ask premium prices for them.
According to The Real Pit bull website, breeders therefore only focus on producing the “special” blue coat color with the “rare” blue nose with little to no consideration to health and temperament. Of course, not all breeders of blue nose pit bull are crooks.
To the contrary, there are breeders of blue noses producing specimens that are healthy and with stable temperaments, but the take home message though is that a dog’s temperament and health should always be considered much more important than coat or nose color.
Did you know? Due to the high demand of blue-nosed pit bulls, the term “Blue Lust” was coined over the past few years. How much does a bluenose pit bull cost? Generally, the price of blue nose pit bulls ranges between 1,000 to 3,000 dollars and even more!
A Mixed Bag of Genes
Here is where things get extra confusing! Breeders eager to make fast money started at some point crossing American Staffordshire Terriers with American pit bull terriers in hopes of obtaining a “rare” blue coat color that wasn’t seen before.
Because there was likely some mastiff blood in the American Staffordshire Terrier, a silvery-grey coat pattern at some point popped up. Since as mentioned, the American staffordshire terrier and the American pit bull terrier are quite similar, the money making strategy worked for these breeders.
However, on top of the blue coat, some breeders were looking for a dog that was bigger and tougher looking so they mixed in dogs in the bully breed family (American Bulldog, English Bulldog, and Olde English Bulldogge) and Gotti and Razor’s Edge bloodlines and obtained what are known today as “American bullies.”
So if you stumble on blue “pit bulls” that have exaggerated features such as wide chest, heavy bone structure, massive bulky body and a blocky head, likely it’s an American bully. This breed is basically, an American Pitbull Terrier with its own standard.
To quote the United Kennel Club, “Their appearance reflects a strong American Pit Bull Terrier foundation, blended with stock from other bull breeds.” The Real Pitbull website, refers to these dogs as “essentially an American Pit Bull Terrier that is poorly bred” and advocates those searching for a pit bull to avoid American Bully breeders, as ethical breeders should work on preserving the American pit bull terrier breed instead of making their own distorted versions of it.
“The problem is that there is no concerted or organized effort to actually turn the American Bully into a real breed, nor a full attempt to separate the American Bully from the American Pit Bull Terrier. The lines are so blurred as to be invisible at times.” ~The Real Pitbull.
All Dogs are Special
As seen, blue nosed dogs are not a special “type” of purebred pit bulls nor do they belong to a special lineage of pit bulls. They just happen to be dogs who have a different color of nose compared to other pit bulls. Just as one wouldn’t say “I have a brindle pit bull” saying “I have a blue nose pit” doesn’t really mean anything special other than providing a description. This is no different than people being described as having blond or dark brown hair.
However, just because blue nose pit bulls aren’t a special or rare type of pit bull, doesn’t make these dogs less special!
Just like snow flakes, each dog comes with its own distinct personality and each dog is special in its own way. Blue-nosed, red-nosed or any other colored-nose, these dogs are as special and lovable as they can be!
Did you know? A few red nose pits come from the Old Family Red Nose bloodline featuring American Pit Bull terriers with amber-eyes, red-noses, red lips, red toe nails and red coats. Just because a pit bull has a red nose though doesn’t mean that it comes from this distinct line.
Among the many different gaits dogs may show, the hackney gait is quite distinct and it can even be impressive to watch when carried out by the right breed of dog. In many dog breeds, this gait is actually considered a fault. The term derives from the “hackney horse” a horse breed developed in Great Britain known for its special trot with an exaggerated high knee and hock action courtesy of the flexible joints. In many dog breeds this type of gait is considered a compensatory fault as the dog’s high action of the forelegs is usually carried out to keep their paws out of the way from the back feet, something that shouldn’t normally happen. A hackney gait may also be problematic in a dog bred for moving efficiently in the field as it would tire a dog quickly and waste energy since there’s more upward motion involved than a far-reaching gait. So today’s trivia question is:
In what dog breed is a hackney gait desirable?
A The German shepherd
B The Rottweiler
C: The Miniature Fox terrier
D: The Miniature pinscher
The correct answer is: Drum roll please…
The correct answer is: D, the miniature pinscher
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A min pin in action
What the Standard Says
According to the American Kennel Club, the miniature pinscher must show a “hackney-like action” with a “high-stepping, reaching, free and easy gait in which the front leg moves straight forward and in front of the body and the foot bends at the wrist. “As the dog moves with this gait, he drives smoothly and strongly from the rear with his head and tail carried high.
The gait is a characteristic of the breed and brings together the many appealing features such as the gracefully curved neck, the tail set high and the clean and sloping shoulders with moderate angulation so to allow the hackney-like action.
They say a picture is worth 100 words, but a video is worth 1000, so watch the min pins in action as they “hackney” through the ring.
Watch the Min Pins in Action!
An Important Note
While the gait in the min pin is similar to the hackney gait in the hackney horse, it’s important to make a distinction. According to the Miniature Pinscher Club of America, the hackney action in the min pin should be limited to front movement only.
The high “hock action”of the rear legs is therefore limited to horses, as in the min pin, the exaggerated “lift” of rear legs would be ultimately too inefficient especially considering that the breed standard calls for a smooth action.
The King of Toys
Owners of this breed may notice the hackney action as the dog prances around proudly, almost as if “strutting his stuff,” in a “look at me!” fashion, after finding a toy or perhaps capturing a rodent. In the ring, these dogs can put up quite an impressive show with the flashy front movement gait. Overall, this gait reflects the proud, alert and spirited dynamite personality of this breed and it provides a glimpse as to why these dogs are often referred to as the “King of Toys!” For these reasons many min pin owners refer to their dogs as “a big dog in a small package.”
Did you know? While the min pin closely resembles a doberman, he’s not a miniature doberman. According to Miniature Pinscher Club of America, the Miniature Pinscher is actually older as it wasn’t until 1890 that Louis Doberman bred his first Dobie.
References:
American Kennel Club, Official Standard of the Miniature Pinscher, retrieved from the web on April 12th, 2016.
Miniature Pinscher Club of America, Gait, retrieved from the web on April 12th, 2016
Miniature Pinscher Club of America, Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Miniature Pinschers ..but were afraid to ask! retrieved from the web on April 12th, 2016
Among the many skin problems dogs may develop in their lifetime, some may be quite peculiar and the sensation of feeling bubbles under a dog’s skin must be certainly one of them. Dog owners report that when they press on their dog’s skin if feels as if they were touching air bubbles causing crackling, popping noises. Some compare the noise upon touching their dog’s skin to the noise produced by bubble wrap, Rice Krispies or a piece of crinkly tissue paper. What is going on with the skin of these dogs? Surprisingly, these symptoms are tell-tale signs of a specific condition in dogs. Can you guess what’s the name of this peculiar disorder?
A Bubbling dermatitis
B Crinkled skin disorder
C Subcutaneous emphysema
D Canine cracking disease
The correct answer is:
The correct answer is C, Subcutaneous Emphysema
A Lesson in Etymology
What exactly is subcutaneous emphysema in dogs? We can get a clue from taking a lesson in etymology. If we take a look at the name of this condition, we will notice that subcutaneous means “beneath the surface layer of the skin” while emphysema means “a condition where air is abnormally present within the body tissues.” Dogs owners who report feeling bubbles under their dog’s skin are therefore correct in their descriptions, there is indeed air trapped between the layers of the dog’s skin. So this brings us to the next question: how does the air get trapped under the skin in the first place? There are three ways this can happen.
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“When you press on the skin you can hear and feel a layer of popping crunching tissue just beneath the skin.” ~Dr. Krista Magnifico
1) From Outside the Body
Generally, in this case, the air gains access under the layers of a dog’s skin through a traumatic opening in the skin deriving from a cut, puncture wound or bite. What happens is that the skin is pulled away from its subcutaneous tissue, and if there is a hole somewhere, air gets trapped between those skin layers, explains Dr, Magnifico. Generally, if there is not infection present and the wound appears to be healing well, the air is absorbed naturally after a few days.
2) From Inside the Body
There are instances where the air gathers under the skin from underlying trauma to the dog’s trachea, chest, bronchi or lung. A penetrating trauma to the dog’s chest for example may cause air to escape the lungs and reach the subcutaneous tissue of the chest wall. Air escaping the body in this way can be due to being hit by a car or sustaining injuries from a bad fall where a broken rib penetrates the lung.
In some cases, air may escape and cause subcutaneous emphysema following a surgical procedure. In this case, trauma to the dog’s trachea from an endotracheal tube (eg. overblown cuff, sharp edge of tube) may be a culprit. In this case, the swelling of the skin occurs by the neck region and may extend to the trunk of the body and may be seen as early as a couple of days following intubation, according to Blue Pearl Vet. When air is leaking from inside the body, an x-ray can help determine the source of the problem.
3) From Bacteria
At times, the bubbles aren’t actually caused by the presence of air, but from the presence of gas. This is something though that happens quite rarely when there is a gas producing bacterial infection, explains veterinarian Dr. Dan. Basically what is happening is that a serious bacterial infection is causing gas to accumulate under the skin, causing the crackling noises. Affected dogs require strong antibiotics to combat the infection.
Signs of Problems
Generally, the first signs of problems tend to appear three to seven days after the dog sustains some type of puncture wound or injury. Affected dogs may develop swelling in the affected area and some dogs may feel pain when they move. As mentioned, dog owners report feeling a characteristic crackling, tissue paper or Rice Krispies type feel when they touch their dog’s skin, a phenomenon known medically as “subcutaneous crepitation.” When there is a lot of air leaking into the skin, affected dogs may develop considerable facial swelling. When the swelling affects the neck, the dog may develop voice changes and he may have trouble breathing. These dogs require immediate veterinary attention.
Removing the Bubbles
Generally, subcutaneous emphysema is not typically dangerous in and of itself, but its symptoms may be associated with serious conditions such as lung problems as explained above. Seeing the vet is important so to rule out these conditions. If a dog appears to have trouble breathing and wheezing, he should be seeing the emergency vet at once. Treatment for subcutaneous emphysema varies based on severity. In mild cases, nothing may be done considering that small amounts of air are usually reabsorbed by the body.
If the dog is painful, treatment consists of removing the air from under the skin when it’s painful. This can be accomplished through the use of needles that aspirate the air or skin incisions. It’s sort of “deflating a dog” almost as one would do with an air mattress, remarks veterinary blogger TJ. When there is a bacterial infection, strong antibiotics are needed; whereas, in the case of trauma to the chest, trachea, bronchi or lungs treatments varies based on the cause.
“The crackling could just be air trapped under the skin from a puncture wound but we also have to worry about some type of damage to the lungs which could be life threatening.” Dr. Jen
Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has developed a crackling noise under the skin, see your vet promptly for appropriate diagnosis and treatment.
References:
Vet Info: Subcutaneous Emphysema in Dogs, retrieved from the web on April 5th, 2016
Blue Pearl Vet, The Air is where? Subcutaneous Emphysema, retrieved from the web on April 5th, 2016
Diary of a Real Life Veterinarian, The tissue paper that hides under your skin. Subcutaneous Emphysema. by Dr. Magnifico, retrieved from the web on April 5th, 2016
The fact that dogs are shorter than us and carry their heads low, as they go on their sniffing adventures, makes them prone to sometimes inhaling foreign particles that may irritate their airways. Thankfully, when irritating particles are inhaled, the dog’s body does a pretty decent job in trying to get rid of them through forceful sneezing fits. Those involuntary and powerful expulsions of air coming from the lungs in many cases are successful in dislodging mucus which has trapped the foreign particles from inside the nose. However, things can be tricky sometimes.
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There is a certain type of grass, that, because of the design of its spikelets, will make it particularly difficult for the dog to expel despite a dog’s repeated snorting and violent sneezing. Can you name what type of grass this is?
A: Spear grass
B: Tall Fescue grass
C: Perennial ryegrass
D: Kikuyugrass
The correct answer is:
The correct answer is: A, spear grass, better known as foxtail grass.
What are Foxtails?
Every late spring and early summer, vacant lots, hiking trails and fields fill up with herbaceous plants that produce foxtails. Also known as spear grass, a foxtail is produced by many types of plants, the most common species being Alopecurus, Hordeum, Stipa (black oat grass) and Setaria.The original purpose of foxtails are not to be harmful; their spikelets are simply meant to attach to the fur of animals passing by so their seeds can be dispersed and implanted into the soil. In wild animals sharing the same habitat with the foxtail, the fur is generally short enough so that eventually the foxtail dislodges and successfully disperses its seeds. Problems start when the foxtail burrows itself in places it shouldn’t. Once burrowed, the foxtail’s barbs cause it to migrate in one direction (always forward, never backwards) where it creates a multitude of problems.
“They are sharp enough to enter tissue and have barbs that cause them to migrate in one direction if they enter the body.”~Dr. Zwingenberge, veterinary radiologist at the University of California-Davis.
Foxtail extracted from dog’s nose
In dogs, the foxtail may lodge in the most inconspicuous places. They may lodge into the dog’s nose, into the mouth, inside the ear canals, under the eye lid, and even under the skin such as the skin between the toes or the armpit and rear ends areas. The foxtail’s tendency to migrate once under the skin, wrecks havoc in the dog’s body triggering inflammation, infection and pain. In some cases even death.
For instance, a foxtail that ends up swallowed by the dog may lodge in the dog’s pharyngeal area causing gagging, coughing and swelling in the neck. A foxtail that’s inhaled by the dog, may cause sneezing and respiratory distress, if it reaches the brain, it can cause seizures and if it reaches the lungs it can cause pneumonia. When the foxtail reaches the ear, the dog may be repeatedly scratching, shaking and tilting the head. A foxtail lodged in the eye requires immediate attention. It can cause pawing at the eye, squinting and redness.When the foxtail lodges under the skin, for instance in the webbing between the toes, the dog may be seen repeatedly licking an area and it may cause local swelling and limping.
“Any kind of plant awn could potentially be a problem, but the classic foxtail seems to be the worst.” ~Dr. Catherine Dyer
As seen, foxtails are a big problem for dogs! The best thing to do is to avoid areas where these grasses that produce them grow (especially when they are dry) and carefully groom the dog after an outing to make sure that none have attached somewhere. Make sure you check the ears, the nose, between the toes, the armpits, under the tail and rear end/genital areas! If you suspect your dog has a foxtail anywhere, consult with your vet at once. As the saying goes” an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”
References:
DVM360, A Guide to finding foxtails, by Dr. Allison Zwingenberger, retrieved from the web on March 29th, 2016
The Whole Dog Journal, Beware of Foxtail Seeds This Summer, by C. C. Holland, retrieved from the web on March 29th, 2016
With summer quickly approaching, dogs are more likely to spend time in the yard and this makes them more prone to fire ant bites. The dog in this picture got recently stung and as you can see, there is some residual scar tissue to attest the encounter with the pesky fire ants. The name of these ants isn’t casual; when fire ants sting, they produce a toxic substance that is known for causing a burning sensation. Fortunately, in many cases the burning sensation is short-lived and dog owners can use a common household remedy to help reduce the pain and itch associated with these bites. So today’s trivia question is:
Fire Ants and Dogs
All Dogs Have It
Did you know? A dog’s foot pads contain many blood vessels which is why they tend to bleed easily when injured.
