What Really Happens When We Tell Dogs the Word No

 

As verbal humans, we are very used to using our words to communicate our thoughts, and this tendency often also surpasses species boundaries when we use our words as well to communicate with our own dogs. One of the most common words people use to communicate displeasure is a sharp “no!” said often in a “I mean business” tone of voice. But do dogs really understand the meaning of the word no? We may assume they do based on how they sometimes react to it, but things are not always as we perceive them.

no-dogUsing the Word No

To us humans, the word no is perceived as something that should make a behavior stop. Indeed, people tend to often use it when the dog is doing something that is not desirable. The dog is jumping on someone? No! The dog is trying to steal a sandwich from the table? No! The dog is about to jump onto the couch? No!

Since many dogs stop in their tracks upon hearing the “no” word, it’s perceived as if the dog completely understood our message. The word “no” is therefore reinforcing to the owner as it made a bothersome behavior stop in its tracks. Since it feels good to the owner to make an unwanted behavior go away, the word no will therefore be used more and more in similar contexts. So next time Rover tries to dig a hole in the yard, the owner will say.. yes, you guessed it, the powerful word “no!”

Dogs don’t use words as we do, and as such, they often don’t understand many things we tell them. The word “no!” used to tell Rover to stop chewing, to stop jumping, to stop stop digging, to stop begging, to stop pulling and to stop all those different things dogs do that we don’t like, isn’t perceived by dogs in the same way we perceive it.

So if dogs don’t really understand what we are saying, then why do some dogs often stop in their tracks upon hearing us say “no”? Following are several explanations as to what dogs may be actually perceiving when we say the magic word “no.”

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“Stop All Activity!”dog lip licking

Think dogs understand the word ‘no’? Here’s what’s likely happening. When the dog owner says “no!” in a firm “I mean business” tone of voice, the dog is simply responding to the owner as if responding to a dog who is growling and snarling. No exact meaning is attached to the word no as to “stop jumping, stop digging or stop begging.” Therefore, the dog is not stopping any particular activity, but is actually stopping ALL activity, explains veterinarian Myrna Milani, in the book “The Body Language and Emotion of Dogs.”

“Using the word “NO” means nothing to a dog, he is not born with an understanding of the word “NO” or any other word for that matter.”~Georgina Lees-Smith

What to do instead:  here’s an easy exercise: try to stop relying on the word “no” and instead do some troubleshooting, figuring out what you really want your dog to instead. Write these behaviors down and and start practicing them when the problem behaviors are NOT occurring. Make these behaviors really fluent so that you can ask for them when you notice your dog is about to engage in a troublesome behavior.

dog barking“I Don’t Understand You”

When we tell a dog “no” we are not understanding our dog and our dog is not understanding us. This makes for some mass miscommunication! For example in the case of a dog who is barking at the door, we may tell the dog to quiet down by saying “No!” But what is really going on in Rover’s mind? Rover may have heard a noise, perhaps somebody walking close by the door and by barking he is announcing an intruder. “There’s somebody coming close!” he barks to alert the owner. The owner instead remarks “No!” while the dog keeps barking as if saying “Yes, yes, there is a person walking by, I just heard him with my sensitive ears! Don’t believe me? Check it out!” This leads to a profound form of cross-communication that often leads to dog owners further raising their voices, remarks veterinary behaviorist Karen Overall in the book “Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats.”

What to do instead: In this case, rather than raising the voice to tell the dog “no” a better option may be to acknowledge the dog’s barking by looking outside and thanking the dog for alerting, then possibly giving the dog something else to do such as sit or lie down and rewarding with a tasty treat or a toy.

“Attention Coming Your Way!”dog-pawing-reasons

While in some dogs the word “no”may suppress any behavior they engage in, for some attention seeking dogs, the word “no” may have the opposite effect. For these dogs. the word “no” has actually become a powerful word that has become associated with attention!

These are often bored, under stimulated dogs who may appreciate any form of attention, even if of the negative type. So when their owners come home from work, these dogs are looking forward to doing anything that just gets the owners’ attention away from watching a TV show or talking on the phone. “Me, me, please pay attention to me! ” So these dogs start chewing on the remote, barking at the owners or insistently pawing at them or stealing an item and taking off with it in hopes of gaining the owner’s attention. If the word “no” is incorporated in the owner’s reaction, it often becomes a signal that the owner is now paying attention to the dog, looking at him and talking at him or even “playing with him” as seen with dogs stealing items and having the owner yell “no” as he starts chasing him around in a fun game of keep away.

What to do instead:  Dogs have needs too! Provide your dog with the right amount of exercise and interaction before sitting down in the evening. Then as his energy is drained off, provide a quiet, yet mentally stimulating activity for your dog such as working on a stuffed Kong or other type of puzzle that can provides several minutes of entertainment. When commercials come on, why not do some fun, yet brief training sessions with your pal?

puppy“Just Don’t Mind Me”

On the other hand, there are dogs who care less about the word “no.” Indeed, the word “no” has become just as irrelevant as the birds chirping in the trees during the day or the crickets singing during the night. Often this is the result of dog owners repeating the word no over and over like a broken record, and the dog has no clue what the dog owners mean so they have learned to just ignore it.

This is something often seen with new puppy owners. They follow their puppy around the house as the puppy starts investigating. The puppy chews on a shoe and the owner says ” no!” The puppy next steals the remote and the owner says “no!” Because all these “no” do not have an immediate consequence such as diverting the puppy’s attention to something else or providing a brief timeout to a boring room, they go to deaf ears or the puppy may also think it’s a fun game.

“The power of the word ‘no’ is totally lost on the dog who hears it used repeatedly, thus learning to ignore it. “~Sue McCab

What to do instead: manage your puppy’s environment so he’s not allowed to repeatedly rehearse problem behaviors which put him into the position of failing. So if say your puppy chews on your shoes, why not stop leaving those shoes around in the first place? “Out of sight, out of mind,” is quite a powerful management technique! Instead, leave around all the toys your puppy can play with so he’s set up for success and every body is happy.

“I Don’t Care About Your Needs”digging

Many behaviors that trigger the word “no” are instinctive, natural behaviors that dogs may find self-reinforcing. When a dog is stopped from performing an undesirable behavior (from our perspective of course!),  often a behavior vacuum is likely to take place. Deprived from performing the natural behavior, the dog may feel frustrated and try to find another replacement behavior just to fill up the void. So if Rover is told “no” every time he tries to dig in the yard, at some point he may get frustrated from not being able to perform this natural behavior, so he’ll likely fill the void and decide to start chewing on the water hose instead.

“Vacuum behavior appears to spontaneously erupt out of frustrated internal drive tensions unable to find adequate expression otherwise.” ~Steven Lindsay

What to do instead: A better option is instead to give a dog benign activity to engage in that meets his natural desires such as getting food out of a stuffed Kong or shredding a cardboard box so that it can fit nicely in the trash can.

The Bottom Line

If dogs don’t understand exactly what the word no means, then it’s not fair to use it, or if it must really be used, it should be simply used as a way to re-direct the dog to performing a replacement behavior. This can be an option if it’s said in a neutral tone and the word hasn’t received excessive negative connotations in past. There are several great things dog owners may do to improve their relationship with their dogs. Management is a great tool to use at least until the dog has had an importunity to being trained. Providing outlets for natural behaviors using benign, innocent hobbies (puzzles, interactive toys, designated digging areas) is important. Replacement behaviors are great as they can fill the void and help your dog make good choices because they have a strong reinforcement history. A win-win!

Using the Word “No” in a More Positive Manner by Zak George

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Help, My Dog Keeps Sniffing on Walks

 

“Help, my dog keeps on sniffing everything on walks and I don’t know how to stop him.” If this sounds quite familiar, rest assured you are not alone. Countless dogs love sniffing while walking and with that powerful sniffer, who can blame them? Sniffing is totally normal behavior in dogs, not sniffing is actually what is abnormal. Of course though, walking a dog who pulls to sniff every single bush, every single fire hydrant and every single lamppost can get old over time and quite frustrating.  Since stopping your dog from sniffing altogether is unrealistic and you don’t want to end up with your arm coming out of its socket, the best way to deal with this problem is to find a compromise.

dog pull to sniffSniffing is Rewarding 

Before approaching the problem of dogs who pull to sniff when they are walking on leash, it’s important to realize how rewarding it is for a dog to sniff. When we go out on a walk, we mostly pay attention to the world around us by looking around. We may notice our neighbor’s new flowers, a home being remodeled or a person working on a car. Dogs instead tend to live in an olfactory world. It’s natural for dogs to want to investigate their surroundings and the best way to do this is through their almighty nose. Asking a dog to never stop to sniff on walks is somewhat comparable to asking a person to go for a stroll blindfolded.

Dogs who urine mark on car tires, bushes and lampposts are leaving their pee-mail, basically special social “tweets” under the form of chemical messages known as “pheromones” which are purposely left behind for other dogs to sniff. When your dog goes to sniff these areas, he is using his Jacobson organ, a special pouch-like structure found between the dog’s vomer and nasal bones  equipped with a special duct at the top of the dog’s roof of the mouth. A dog’s Jacobson organ is lined up with special olfactory receptor cells responsible for detecting chemical messages which are then relayed to important parts of the dog’s brain capable of generating emotional and behavioral responses. So this explains why dogs are so obsessed in sniffing and marking…

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“While we’re walking we spend a lot of energy looking around—enjoying the view and noting what has changed in the neighborhood. Dogs, on the other hand, primarily want to learn about the environment through olfaction.” ~Patricia McConnell

Tense Leash Means Stop

Capture

Dogs who pull on walks to sniff everything do so because it’s rewarding. If every time your dog pulls, he gets to sniff something, what has he learned? That pulling leads to rewards.  It’s just as simple as that (hint, opposition reflex plays a role here too). If every time you insert a coin into a vending machine you get a snack, your coin inserting behavior will persist. So getting acquainted with these dynamics is key to solving the pulling behavior. Starting today, the moment you notice your dog is starting to walk ahead of you to reach a bush he always sniffs, start slowing down, and then when your dog reaches the end of the leash, stop walking in your tracks. Turn into a statue cemented to the ground.

The first time you do this, your dog will likely be surprised. “Hey, what happened? Usually, every time I reach the end of the leash, I drag my owner a couple of steps and then get to sniff the bush.” Your dog may at this point, try pulling even harder, a phenomenon known as an”extinction burst. ” This is normal, just as you would try shaking a vending machine that doesn’t deliver your snack after inserting your coin, your dog may try pulling harder since it’s no longer working. Be patient, keep still and expect the first walks to take longer than usual, but don’t worry all your training will pay off soon!

 

lose leash means goLoose Leash Means Go

While stopping in your tracks teaches your dog that pulling no longer works, you want to train your dog what he needs to do instead. When you stop, call your dog to your side and reward him with some tasty food rewards. Then start walking and reward your dog for staying by your side every 3 steps, then, as your dog gets good at this, you can try every 6, and then at some point, you can start rewarding randomly (eg, every 3 steps, every 8, every 5, every 6).

Since you are passing by areas that have a strong history of reinforcement (fire hydrants, lamppost, bushes and other areas where pee-mail is often deposited) it’s important to make sticking by your side extra rewarding by investing in high-value treats. Make sure to make the area next to your leg your official “reward zone.” As your dog learns that on walks you are granting him his fair share of opportunities to sniff, you can then start fading the treats but keep giving them every now especially when you need to help him make good choices around distractions.

“Tight leash = brakes or red light, slack leash = accelerator or green light” ~ Jean Donaldson

Use the Premack Principle 

sniffing

We often think about food as a way to reward dogs for performing behavior we like, but sometimes  other types of rewards are right in front of our noses (and our dog’s noses too). Premack’s Principle states “more probable behaviors will reinforce less probable behaviors.” Also known as “Grandma’s Law,” it’s as if we were telling a child “you can have apple pie if you eat your broccoli first.”

What does this mean to our dogs? It means that, every now and then, we can reward a dog for walking nicely on the leash (broccoli) by allowing him to “go sniff” (apple pie).  After all, when we walk our dogs, don’t we do it for them mostly? Don’t they deserve a bit of sniffing time? By demanding them to never stop to sniff, or worse, correcting them every time they want to sniff by delivering a leash correction, makes dogs perceive us as a source of punishment and an obstacle preventing them from having a bit of innocent, free fun.

“Booooo.. who wants to stick by a person who delivers corrections and ends all the fun, what party poopers humans are!”

CaptureTeaching “Go Sniff”

Here’s when we can incorporate a “go sniff” cue and find a compromise on walks so that we both get to enjoy the perks that come along with all the stimuli associated with the great outdoors. Since dogs benefit from sniffing from time to time,(hey, sniffing is a tiring activity too, win-win!) here’s where the Premack Principle comes handy. Every now and then, when your dog is walking nicely by your side, walk towards an area that you’ll be using for your dog’s sniffing pleasure. Practice walking to this area on a loose leash. Make it a habit to say “go sniff” so that your dog understands that you are giving him permission to go on a sniffing adventure. This is  one of the easiest training cues you will ever train as most dogs know what to do when you let them approach a “pee-mail” area.

Make sure you give him a bit time and when he seems to be losing interest,  say “let’s go” praise, and continue on your walk. Or even better, if you have access to a fenced area where your dog can safely stay off leash and sniff to his heart’s content, walk towards this area, and when that leash is dangling in a nice slack “U” snap off the leash and say “go sniff.” Most dogs at some point get tired of sniffing, so once the novelty is gone, this is a good time to call your dog and reward him.

“The walk plus sniffing will help tire out the dog and make the walk more productive, but it will also allow the dog to check “pee-mail.”Use sniffing as a reward on the walk. “Walk politely on a leash to the fire hydrant and you’ll get to sniff it!”~Amber Walker

 

idea tipTip: for some dogs, the outdoors is very stimulating and if might be too difficult to implement this training in face of all the olfactory distractions. You may therefore want to start training loose leash walking in your home and yard first. Simply, put a leash on your dog and place a toy or a couple of kibble on the floor and practice walking by these temptations on a loose leash. Praise and reward, making sure you use treats that are higher in value that the item on the floor.

 

References:

  • Clicker Training, Go Ahead, Let Your Dog Sniff, retrieved from the web on August 7th, 2016
  • The Other End of the Leash, Take Your Dog on a Sniff, retrieved from the web on August 7th, 2016

 

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Do You Always Have to Use a Clicker in Dog Training?

 

Many people are hesitant to try clicker training for the simple fact that they don’t feel like bringing a clicker along with them when they’re out and about with their dogs. Yet, many people are not aware of the fact that there is no need to always have to use the clicker for the simple fact that the use of the clicker can actually be discontinued at some point! Actually, the correct wording would be “the clicker “must be discontinued at some point” if we want to adhere to good training practices. So for those folks addicted to using a clicker who are using it all the time for the same exact exercises over and over, that clicker must go “bye-bye” at some point. To discontinue the use of the clicker, there’s an exact procedure to follow to so to successfully discontinue its use, but the good news is that the process is fairly easy.

clicker typesWhat Clickers Do

Clickers are noise-making tools that produce a distinctive clicking noise when the trainer presses on it. Nowadays, there are several makes and models of clickers on the market, but they all share the fact that they produce a distinct clicking sound. This clicking sound tells the dog something along the lines of “Bingo! You got it right, here comes a treat.” The clicking noise therefore happens right the moment the dog performs the desired behavior. Because the clicker bridges the gap between the behavior and the reward, all clicks must always be immediately followed by a treat. For sake of comparison, the effect of the clicking noise might feel to a dog similar to the  “ding, ding, ding” noise people hear in game shows when they give the correct answer and win a prize.

While the clicker works very well when we are training a new behavior as it pinpoints that exact moment in time when the behavior occurs, if we keep using the clicker once a dog is fluent in performing a behavior, its use is pretty much redundant as there’s nothing really new happening and this may turn a training session dull. The exception to the rule is when we’re adding a new challenge to a behavior our dog knows well. In this case, we can re-introduce the clicker. For example, if we’ve trained our dog to reliably sit, and therefore, stopped using the clicker, one day we may want to raise criteria and pinpoint faster sits versus the slower ones.  In this case, we would go back to using the clicker to mark/reward only the fast sits.

“At ClickerExpo, during lecture sessions, I sometimes see attendees repeatedly clicking and treating dogs just for lying down and being quiet, when the dog is already lying down and being quiet anyway. Using the click in this way, just to maintain behavior that’s already been learned, may actually devalue the click.” Karen Pryor

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A Matter of Fluencydog trick

After a behavior is learned and becomes reliable, the use of the clicker should be discontinued. When is a dog’s behavior considered reliable? According to Paul Owens author of the book “The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training.”If your dog responds 80 percent of the time on any one behavior, you should consider it reliable behavior. If your dog gives you the behavior you are asking 90 percent of the time in different environments, that is considered very reliable”

This means we can still use the clicker when we morph our hand signal into the final one or when we introduce the verbal cue “sit “and we can still use it when we’re introducing distractions (such as training in different places) just to confirm to the dog that he’s still doing great despite these new added challenges, but afterward, it should become our goal to get the clicker out of the picture.

“Once the behavior is on cue, and dog will offer it willingly, fade the clicker”~ Melissa Alexander

 

dog trickWhat Can I use to Replace the Click? 

Various trainers use different methods and there doesn’t seem to be a standard operating procedure. Melissa Alexander suggests replacing the click with a verbal marker. She claims “A verbal marker isn’t as precise as a clicker, but at this stage, the dog knows what’s being reinforced. Consider the verbal marker a praise marker, letting the dog know that he did something reinforceable”

It’s not a bad idea therefore to train a dog using a clicker for cutting-edge precision and using a marker  such as ‘yes” for those times you don’t have access to the clicker or simply don’t need that precision the clicker can only give. This way, when that time comes and you need to discontinue the clicker, you can easily replace it with the already familiar verbal marker. Now that you have a verbal marker and no longer a clicker, you are also free to move on to a variable schedule where you give treats randomly instead of every single time.

James O’ Heare instead in the book “The Science and Technology of Dog Training p. 149” suggests to use a release cue to replace the clicker. For example, in an exercise that uses duration such as a sit, we would replace the click with a release word such as “Okay.” If the dog breaks the sit, then the owners should promptly reinforce it. However if the dog is hesitant to break the sit upon hearing the release cue “okay,” owners can immediately (after saying “okay”) prompt the dog to be released from the sitting position by perhaps waving their arms or enticing the dog to follow them. When the dog breaks the sitting position, he can then be rewarded.

” Once the learner knows what to do and when to do it, for many behaviors you don’t need to click any more; a nod or a smile or a word can tell a dog he’s doing fine.” Karen Pryor

The Bottom Line

As seen, the clicker is a temporary tool used for pinpointing desired behaviors. Once the dog knows what’s being asked to and performs the behavior reliably, the clicker should be discontinued. Different trainers may use different methods as to when and how to start discontinuing its use. During the process, the dog should be introduced to a permanent word or perhaps a nod or a smile, that can used to replace the clicking sound. This is also a good time to move from a continuous reinforcement schedule to a variable one. Oh, and by the way, for those who call the process of discontinuing the clicker “fading the click” this term is technically incorrect. Fading means making something gradually smaller and smaller as we do when fading prompts. With the clicker, you either click or not,  so it’s not a suitable term for a marker signal, explains Karen Pryor.

idea tipDid you know? According to a study, dogs who were trained using a clicker to perform a specific target behavior took an average time of 36 minutes to perform the task, whereas dogs who very verbally conditioned dogs took an average of 59 minutes.

 

References:

  • The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training, By Paul Owens, Norma Eckroate, Adams Media; 2 edition (February 12, 2007)
  • The Science and Technology of Dog Training, by James O’ Heare,  Dogwise Publishing
    Edition:
    2014
  • Clicker Solutions by Melissa Alexander, Frequently Asked Questions, retrieved from the web on July 3rd, 2016
  • Clicker Bridging Stimulus Efficacy.” Linday Wood. 2007. Master’s thesis, Hunter College, New York.
  • Karen Pryor Clicker Training, Fading the Click? retrieved from the web on July 3rd, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • Clicker-training clickers come in various shapes and forms.Taken by Elf | Talk Sept 17 ’04Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons. Transfer was stated to be made by User:Syp. CC BY-SA 3.0

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