Training - Daily Dog Discoveries

My Dog Is Over Threshold: What to Do?

February 22, 2025February 20, 2025 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

If your dog is over threshold, he’s likely experiencing a high level of arousal, fear, stress, or excitement that surpasses his ability to think, learn, or respond appropriately.

When a dog is over threshold, they may exhibit extreme reactions such as barking, lunging, growling, or shutting down entirely.

This often happens when some stimulus that the dog perceives as too intense (e.g., another dog, a stranger, a loud noise) is too close, pushing the dog beyond their comfort zone.

If your dog is over threshold, it’s difficult for him to focus and he will be unable to process information. This prevents him from being able to respond to cues and learn new behaviors.

Let’s take a closer look at what it means when a dog is over threshold, and most of all, what you can do to help lower his threshold levels so that he can form positive associations and learn appropriate responses rather than reacting out of fear or frustration.

What Does It Mean For a Dog to Be Over Threshold?

Being over threshold means that a dog is so stressed, scared, or excited that they just can’t think, listen, or learn. Their emotions take over, and they react instinctively, barking, lunging, running away, or even freezing.

Imagine you’re terrified of spiders, and suddenly, someone dumps a bucket of them on you. Would you calmly listen to instructions? Solve a math problem? Probably not! That’s what happens when your dog goes over threshold.

For training or behavior modification to work, you want to keep your dog under threshold, at that perfect level where they notice something, but can still stay calm, take treats, and respond to you.

If you own a dog, most likely at some time or another, he must have been over threshold. Need some examples?

Examples of a Dog Being Over Threshold

Here are some examples of a dog being over threshold:

Picture this: You’re walking your dog, when suddenly, out of the blue, a squirrel darts across the path. Your dog now transforms into a sled dog in the Iditarod, yanking you off your feet.
Your dog is so fixated on the squirrel that he can’t see you or hear you. He can’t take treats, and certainly forgot all his previous training.

Here’s another example: You are driving and your dog is fine in the car, but the second you step into the vet’s office, he starts panting, whining, and trying to bolt for the exit. His stress level has skyrocketed, and no amount of “good boy” talk or treats will bring them back down.

Maybe you are too familiar with this scene: The doorbell rings, and your dog launches into full-blown defense mode, barking, spinning, and bouncing off the furniture like a kangaroo who had too many coffees.

Here’s the thing: when a dog is over threshold, they’re emotionally flooded, they can’t focus, learn, or respond appropriately. Their fight-or-flight response kicks in, and all cognitive thinking flies out the window.

For training, you want to work under threshold, finding that perfect sweet spot where your dog is aware of a trigger, but he is still able to think, listen, and take treats.

So if you want to avoid being dragged into a bush by a squirrel-chasing lunatic, you’ll need to keep your dog under threshold.

Understanding Comfort Level and Fear Threshold

Here is a general guideline that can help you gauge whether your dog is comfortable, starting to go over threshold and reaching threshold.

Under Threshold

Your dog is aware of the stimulus (e.g., a feared object, dog or person approaching, or a sound), but is still relaxed and does not display signs of fear or distress.

At this level, your dog remains capable of learning and forming positive associations because he is calm.

At Threshold

Your dog starts becoming aware of the stimulus. He’s oriented towards it and may start becoming somewhat concerned. He may start to exhibit early signs of stress such as lip licking, yawning, being hyper vigilant.

Over Threshold

As your dog crosses goes over threshold, he enters a state of emotional reactivity, where fear and stress take over. At this stage, learning is impaired because the dog’s brain prioritizes survival (fight or flight) over forming new, positive associations.

3 Reasons You Need to Keep Your Dog Under Threshold

Following is why it’s so important for you to keep your dog under threshold:

Dogs Learn Best When They Feel Safe

Fear, anxiety and overexcitement inhibit the dog’s ability to process and retain new information. To learn, the dog must remain in a state where they can perceive the feared stimulus without being overwhelmed.

2. It Helps Prevent Sensitization

When a dog is repeatedly exposed to a stimulus in a way that triggers fear, the result may be sensitization rather than desensitization. Sensitization makes the dog more reactive over time, as repeated exposure at a high intensity reinforces their fear response.

Just like having a bucket of spiders dumped on you if you have a phobia won’t likely solve your fear of spiders, so does exposing a fearful dog to something that scares them at full intensity (flooding).

This process won’t help them get over it, in fact, it will probably make things worse. Instead of “getting used to it,” the dog becomes more anxious and reactive each time they encounter the trigger.

3. It Helps Maintain Trust in the Handler

Pushing a dog beyond their comfort zone can damage the trust between the dog and their handler. If the dog feels forced into situations where they are afraid, they may come to associate their handler with stress, which can worsen anxiety and complicate future training efforts.

Signs a Dog Is Going Over Threshold

Being able to read a dog’s body language is crucial for keeping a dog below their fear threshold. Look for these signs:

Subtle Signs (Early Indicators)

Lip licking
Yawning,
Nose licking.
Turning the head away
Avoiding eye contact.
Ears pulled back
Tension in the face or body.
Panting when not hot or thirsty

Evident Signs of Fear or Stress

Whining, barking, or growling.
Pacing or restlessness.
Freezing
Attempting to hide.
Attempting to flee or escape.
Drooling
Trembling.

When these signs appear, it’s an indication that the threshold has been crossed, and the session should be paused or adjusted to reduce the intensity of the stimulus.

What Causes Dogs to Go Over Threshold?

Following are several triggers and situations that may cause dogs to go over threshold. Being aware of these triggers/situations is crucial so as to prevent the dog from relapsing.

Moving Too Quickly Through Steps

Dog owners often rush through the process, exposing the dog to a stimulus too intensely or too soon, such as moving too close to the feared object or introducing it for too long.

Example: If a dog is afraid of cars, taking them on a short drive before they are comfortable just being near a stationary car can set the process back significantly.

Failing to Adjust Based on the Dog’s Response

Dogs are individuals and you cannot use a cookie-cutter approach to address their emotions. A common error is to therefore stick rigidly to a predefined plan without adapting to the individual dog’s needs and responses.

Not Recognizing Subtle Stress Signals

Early signs of fear are often overlooked, leading to situations where the dog is inadvertently pushed beyond their threshold. Hence, the important of recognizing early signs of stress.

Inconsistent Application

If the stimulus is sometimes presented in a non-controlled manner (e.g., an uncontrolled car passing by during training), it can confuse the dog and slow progress.

How to Avoid Your Dog From Going Over Threshold

There are several steps you can take to prevent your dog from being pushed too far. Here are several strategies that help keep your dog under threshold.

Start at a Distance or Intensity Your Dog Tolerates

Begin with a version of the stimulus that is so mild the dog doesn’t react. For example, if the dog fears cars, you might start with the car parked and the engine off at a significant distance.

Progress Gradually and Systematically

Increase exposure intensity (e.g., proximity, duration, or realism of the stimulus) in small, incremental steps. Always monitor the dog’s body language to ensure they remain comfortable.

Use High-Value Reinforcers

Pair the stimulus with something the dog loves, like treats, toys, or praise. This builds a positive emotional association with the stimulus and helps the dog stay below their fear threshold.

Organize Short and Frequent Sessions

Keep training sessions short to prevent stress and fatigue. Frequent, low-pressure sessions are more effective than long, overwhelming ones.

Control the Environment

Ensure the training environment is free from additional stressors that could compound the dog’s anxiety. For instance, train in a quiet area where distractions are minimal.

Signs of Success

You know you’re staying below the fear threshold and progressing effectively when:

Your dog remains calm and relaxed in the presence of the stimulus.
Your dog willingly engages with you (e.g., takes treats, responds to cues).
Your dog begins to exhibit neutral or even positive body language (e.g., wagging tail, relaxed posture) around the stimulus.
Your dog is able to tolerate closer proximity or increased intensity of the stimulus without showing signs of fear.

Is a Dog Under Threshold If He’s Able to Take Treats?

Not necessarily. Some dogs will still eat even when stressed, while others may refuse food at the slightest discomfort.

To determine if a dog is truly under threshold, look at their overall behavior:

If the dog take treats calmly and willingly, they are usually likely under threshold. Do they take treats hurriedly (grabby mouthing) or with stiffness? Then they may be close to threshold.

If they refuse treats, they are likely over threshold and too stressed to eat.

Treat-taking is just one clue. It’s always best assess body language, responsiveness, and the dog’s overall emotional state for the full picture.

Concluding Thoughts

As seen, repeated exposure to a scary stimulus at full intensity can make a dog’s fear worse (sensitization) instead of better (desensitization). To help a fearful dog, introduce the trigger gradually and in a way that keeps them calm (under threshold) so they can learn and potentially form positive associations with the trigger (counterconditioning) rather than negative ones.

How to Prevent Dog Collar Strangulation

February 22, 2025December 29, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Collars are an everyday necessity for most dogs. They hold important identification tags, proof of vaccinations, and serve as a point of attachment for leashes. However, despite their commonplace use, collars can pose significant safety risks, particularly when it comes to strangulation.

While many pet owners trust traditional collars without a second thought, an increasing number of incidents have shown that dog collar strangulation is a real and present danger. This article will explore the risks associated with dog collars, provide insights into why these accidents happen, and discuss safer alternatives to help prevent such tragic incidents.

Risks Associated with Dog Collars

At first glance, a standard buckle collar appears harmless. It wraps securely around the dog’s neck and ensures that identification tags are readily available. However, what many dog owners may not realize is that this very design can lead to fatal accidents in certain situations.

Collar-Related Accidents During Play

One of the most common ways dogs experience collar strangulation is during play. Dogs naturally engage in roughhousing, which often includes mouthing, chasing, and wrestling. If one dog’s jaw or tooth gets entangled in another dog’s collar, panic sets in.

The trapped dog struggles to free itself, while the other dog instinctively tries to pull away. In a matter of seconds, the force exerted can tighten the collar around the dog’s neck, leading to strangulation. Many cases of dog collar strangulation occur in households with multiple dogs or at dog parks and daycare centers where group play is common.

Collar Snagging on Objects

Another common risk is a dog’s collar getting caught on objects. This can happen both indoors and outdoors. Examples include:

Crate wires: A collar can become entangled in the metal wiring of a crate, particularly if a dog is attempting to exit hastily.
Fences: If a dog jumps or squeezes through a fence, the collar can snag on a protruding piece of wire or wood, leading to asphyxiation.
Branches and decks: Outdoor dogs, especially those left unsupervised, may get their collars caught on tree branches, patio railings, or deck boards.

In each of these scenarios, if the dog is unable to free itself, the consequences can be fatal. Tragically, these accidents are not as rare as one might assume.

Alarming Statistics

According to estimates, approximately 26,000 dogs suffer from injury or death annually due to collar strangulation accidents. These numbers underscore the importance of taking preventive measures to protect our canine companions from an easily avoidable hazard.

Preventative Measures to Reduce Risks

Back in the days when working for an animal hospital, collars were the first thing we removed from a dog upon admission into the hospital. This meant all dogs coming in for medical procedures that required an in-hospital stay even for just a few hours, had their collars removed immediately.

What did we replace the collars with? We used these flimsy looking identification collars made of the same material as medical hospital identification bracelets with the pet’s name and owner’s name written with a black marker.

Many veterinary hospitals, dog boarding facilities, and professional daycare centers have recognized the dangers of traditional collars and adjusted their policies accordingly.

Similarly, an increasing number of dog daycare centers have adopted a no-collar policy during group play. This simple precaution significantly reduces the risk of strangulation injuries.

“You can think of it as you would any safety measure such as backing up your computer or wearing a life vest, seat belt or bike helmet…Taking collars off dogs is a safety measure to prevent the worst-case – when the dog’s collar might get entangled on another dog or an object, and the dog chokes to death. At that point it’s too late to say, “if only . . .”~Gail Fisher

Safer Alternatives to Standard Buckle Collars

Recognizing the dangers associated with traditional collars, pet owners can take steps to minimize risks by considering safer collar options:

Quick-Release Collars
- These collars feature a buckle mechanism designed to release when force is applied. If a dog’s jaw or tooth gets caught in another dog’s collar, the quick-release buckle allows the collar to detach, preventing strangulation.
- While safer during play, these collars are not ideal for everyday leash use, as they may inadvertently unclip under tension.
Breakaway Safety Collars
- Breakaway collars look like traditional buckle collars but are designed to snap open under extreme force. This allows dogs to escape if their collar gets caught on something.
- Some breakaway collars feature two D-rings, so owners can attach a leash to both rings for secure handling, preventing the collar from breaking away during walks while still offering safety when unsupervised.
Stretchable Elastic Collars
- Some safety collars, such as the Tazlab Safe-T-Stretch Collar, incorporate an elastic component that allows the dog to slip out if the collar gets stuck.
- These are ideal for unsupervised wear but may not be effective for leash-walking.
Harnesses as an Alternative
- In many situations, a well-fitted harness can serve as a safer alternative to a collar, especially for leash walking. Harnesses eliminate the risk of neck strangulation altogether.
- However, they do not provide a place for ID tags, so microchipping is recommended for additional security.

Addressing the Identification Dilemma

One common concern among dog owners is how to ensure their pet remains identifiable without a collar. Fortunately, there are alternative ways to provide identification:

Engraved Collars: Some safety collars allow contact information to be directly embroidered or engraved onto the collar fabric, eliminating the need for dangling ID tags that could become entangled.
ID Tags on Harnesses: If using a harness instead of a collar, owners can attach ID tags to the harness’s D-ring.
Microchipping: A microchip is a permanent and highly effective means of identification. Ensuring that the chip is registered and the contact details are up-to-date is essential.

The Role of Supervision and Education

Even with safety collars, accidents can still happen. Supervision is key. Owners should be especially vigilant during playtime and when dogs are in environments where collar snagging is possible. Educating pet parents, dog daycare providers, and trainers about the risks of dog collar strangulation can help prevent unnecessary injuries and fatalities.

Final Thoughts

Dog collar strangulation is a distressing and preventable occurrence. By understanding the risks, implementing safety measures, and considering alternative collar options, pet owners can take proactive steps to protect their dogs. While no collar is entirely without risk, choosing safer alternatives such as quick-release or breakaway collars—and ensuring supervision during play—can greatly reduce the likelihood of accidents.

As veterinary professionals and behaviorists advocate for safer canine equipment, it is up to pet owners to stay informed and make responsible choices that prioritize their dog’s safety and well-being.

“If you’re nervous about having your dog naked (and without ID), use a collar with a buckle that can be released even under tension. Another option is a safety breakaway collar.” ~Nancy Kerns, Whole Dog Journal

By staying proactive, spreading awareness, and making informed choices, we can work toward reducing preventable tragedies and ensuring that our dogs remain safe, happy, and healthy.

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Logan Ingalls Gus was in the hospital – HE’S HOME NOW! CCBY2.0
Wikipedia, Nylon quick-release buckle collar with identification and medical tags. The original uploader was Elf at English Wikipedia – CCBY3.0

Five Tips on Naming Your Dog

February 14, 2025December 9, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The Science of Dog Naming: Guide to Picking the Perfect Name

When it comes to naming your dog, you likely want something catchy, meaningful, and fun to say. But have you ever considered what’s best for your dog? Unlike humans, dogs don’t inherently understand names; they learn through associative learning, much like responding to a dog whistle.

Given that a name functions as an auditory cue, selecting the right one can enhance communication and training. Let’s explore the science behind dog names and how to choose one that benefits both you and your canine companion.

1. Keep It Different from Training Cues

From your dog’s perspective, a name is simply another cue—just like “sit” or “stay.” It signals them to pay attention, especially when followed by “come!” If a name sounds too similar to a training cue, it can cause confusion and slow the learning process.

Consider these sound-alike pitfalls:

“Brown” or “Clown” may be confused with “down.”
“Kay,” “Fay,” or “May” resemble “stay.”
“Phil” or “Steel” sound like “heel.”
“Butch” or “Catch” may sound like “watch.”
“Tidbit,” “Smith,” “Quick,” “Pit,” or “Kit” can be mistaken for “sit.”
“Oliver” sounds suspiciously like “roll over.”

If you’re set on a name that resembles a command, consider modifying the cue instead. Advanced planning can prevent unnecessary training hurdles down the road.

Pro Tip: If you own two dogs, avoid giving them names that sound too similar, like “Molly” and “Holly.” Otherwise, you might find yourself with two dogs responding at once—or worse, neither responding at all!

2. Keep It Short and Sweet

Have you ever gone to a dog show and felt intrigued by the long and weird names of certain dogs? Well, in the world of showing dogs, those long names are there for several good reasons! First off, those show dogs needs a name that stands out and doesn’t resemble in any way quintessential dog names such as Missy or Fluffy, but most importantly, often, the dog’s name includes information about the dog’s ancestry, something that the owners are very proud after years of breeding certain bloodlines.

Not to mention, sometimes special titles are also added into the mix making these names even longer! For instance, Sky, the wire fox terrier who won the 2012 AKC championship is named “GCH Afterall Painting the Sky.“The GCH in this case stands for the title of grand championship.

As you can imagine, if a show dog would be called by his official name, he would be long gone and missing by the time the owner ends up finishing pronouncing the dog’s name! But of course, things must get practical, which is why owners of show dogs give their dogs another name to respond to, in this case a shorter nickname that’s formally known as the “call name.”

Ideally, a dog’s name should be one or two syllables long to ensure quick pronunciation and immediate recognition.

Did you know? The American Kennel Club allows registration of dog names that can be up to 36 characters long. Need more? For a $10 fee owners can use up to 5o!

But while “Sir Fluffington the Magnificent” might sound regal, calling him “Fluff” is far more effective.

3. Use Strong Consonants

Names with sharp consonants like “P,” “K,” and “D” tend to capture a dog’s attention more effectively. Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., explains that these sounds create “broad-band” frequencies, similar to clickers, which stimulate a dog’s acoustic receptor neurons more than softer sounds.

For example:

Names like “Pip,” “Kai,” and “Dax” will likely stand out.
“Hope” is a favorite among Border Collie owners for a reason—it’s clear, crisp, and engaging.

While any name can be trained through positive reinforcement, selecting one with strong consonants gives you an edge in getting your dog to respond quickly, especially in high-energy situations like agility training.

There…, now you know why so many border collies are named Hope!

“If you analyze the acoustics of spoken language, you’ll find that saying hard consonants, such as “k,” “p” and “d,” create what are called “broad-band” sounds, with lots of energy across a range of frequencies.” ~Patricia McConnell

4. Give It Meaning

Dogs don’t understand names inherently; they learn them through association. If you repeat your dog’s name without reinforcing it with something positive, it becomes just another meaningless sound. This is why some dogs develop “name deafness”—they simply tune you out.

To build strong associations, think of your dog’s name as a “battery” that you need to charge with positive experiences:

Food Training: Say your dog’s name, and the moment they look at you, toss a treat. Repeat in a quiet setting until they recognize their name means something good is coming.
Play Training: Call your dog’s name before throwing a toy or initiating a game.
Adventure Training: Use their name before walks, car rides, or other enjoyable activities.

Major Rule: Never use your dog’s name before something negative (e.g., “Buddy! Bath time!”) if they dislike it. This can “drain the battery” you worked so hard to charge. Instead, pair their name with rewards and positive experiences to maintain its power.

As Stanley Coren, Ph.D., explains:

“A dog’s name becomes a signal which tells him that the next sounds that come out of his master’s mouth are supposed to have some impact on the his life. Thus a dog’s name linguistically translates into something like “This next message is for you.” ~Stanley Coren

5. Re-Naming a Dog After Adoption

Worried about changing your new rescue dog’s name? Don’t be. Dogs adapt well to new names if introduced correctly.

If your adopted dog already responds to a name you dislike (say, “Cujo”), transition gradually:

Say “Cujo!” and reward with a treat.
Introduce the new name alongside the old: “Samson-Cujo!” Reward.
Gradually phase out the old name: “Samsoon-jo!” Reward.
Eventually, drop the old name altogether: “Samson!” Reward generously.
Practice in different settings with varying distractions.

With time and consistency, your dog will learn their new name just as they did the old one—through positive reinforcement and association.

Final Thoughts

Choosing a dog’s name is both a fun and important task. A well-chosen name makes training easier, strengthens communication, and fosters a deeper bond with your pet. By considering how dogs perceive names, you can set your furry friend up for success right from the start.

So, go ahead and pick that perfect name—just make sure it’s one your dog will love as much as you do!

References:

Psychology Today, The Art and Science of Naming a Dog, retrieved from the web on Dec 9th, 2016
The Bark, A Dog by Any Other Name, retrieved from the web on Dec 9th, 2016

How to Train a Dog to Get Off the Bed or Off Furniture

February 14, 2025December 8, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Let’s face it: dogs love couches, chairs, sofas, and beds for the same reasons we do—they are plush, inviting, and provide a sense of security. So, if you’re looking for ways to train your dog to get off the bed or furniture, you’re not alone! Teaching a dog the “off” cue requires patience, positive reinforcement, and a strategic approach, but the payoff is a dog that happily complies without stress or conflict.

First, Avoid These Common Training Mistakes!

If your initial instinct is to grab your dog’s collar, push them off, or issue a stern command simply because “you said so,” consider that these methods can lead to unintended consequences.

Physical corrections, such as pulling or pushing, can create negative associations with you and may cause defensive reactions.
Scruff shakes or scolding can lead to increased stress, fear, and even aggression, as your dog may not understand what they are being punished for.
Using intimidation tactics to remove your dog from furniture might result in resource guarding behaviors, making the situation worse over time.

So, what’s the alternative? A simple, positive, and effective method that teaches your dog what you actually want them to do instead of creating fear and confusion.

What is a Positive “Off” Cue?

A cue is a signal that prompts a behavior without implying any threat or consequence. The word “command” often suggests force or compulsion, which can lead to reluctance rather than cooperation. Instead, we aim for a “cue,” which is a clear and neutral request that results in reinforcement.

“A cue is completely different from a command. There is no threat implied with a cue. A cue is like a green light that tells the dog that now is the time to execute a behavior for the chance of reinforcement.” – Joan Orr

By teaching a positive “off” cue, we allow the dog to make a choice—and choices, especially when rewarded, build confidence and trust.

Choosing the Right Word Matters

The word you use is important. If you’ve previously used “off” in a harsh tone or while physically removing your dog, it may carry negative associations (known as a “poisoned cue“).

To avoid confusion, consider using a fresh cue like:

“Floor” (to indicate the dog should move onto the floor)
“Jump” (to encourage an active movement down)
“Down” is NOT recommended, as this is commonly used for lying down, which could create confusion.

How to Teach Your Dog the “Off” Cue

Step 1: Set Up for Success

To start, gather a clicker (if using one) and some high-value treats. If you don’t have a clicker, a verbal marker like “yes!” works just as well.

Wait for your dog to naturally get onto the furniture. If they’re not inclined, you can gently encourage them by patting the surface.
Say your chosen cue (“off” or “floor!”) and immediately toss a treat onto the floor with a downward motion.
When your dog jumps down to get the treat, click or say “yes!” to mark the behavior.
Repeat this several times, keeping the process fun and positive.

Step 2: Fade the Treat Lure

Once your dog is reliably responding to the treat toss:

Say “off” (or your chosen cue) and pretend to toss a treat while pointing to the floor.
When your dog jumps down, click or say “yes!” and reward them from your other hand.
Gradually, replace the hand motion with a simple verbal cue and reward only after the action is completed.

Step 3: Reduce Treat Dependency

At this stage, your dog understands the cue and follows it consistently. Now, it’s time to mix in other rewards:

Praise (“Good job!”)
Play with a favorite toy
Running to the yard for a game

Occasional treats should still be used to reinforce motivation, especially for food-driven dogs.

Troubleshooting: When Smart Dogs Outsmart You

Some dogs may start a behavior chain, where they hop onto furniture just to earn a treat when they get off! This is similar to dogs learning to jump on people and then sit for a reward in a yo-yo-like fashion.

How to Break the Chain:

When your dog jumps off, don’t immediately give a treat. Instead, ask them for an extra behavior like “sit” or “shake.”
Randomize rewards so that getting off doesn’t always result in food.
Management is key: Close the bedroom door or block access to furniture when you’re not training. Out of sight, out of mind!

What If My Dog Guards the Furniture?

If your dog growls, snaps, or refuses to get off the bed, do not force them off. Resource guarding can be a serious issue that requires professional guidance from a certified behavior consultant or a veterinary behaviorist.

Signs of resource guarding include:

Stiff posture when approached
Growling or showing teeth
Avoiding eye contact while remaining motionless

In these cases, seek help from a professional to implement a safe and structured desensitization and counterconditioning plan.

Final Thoughts

Training your dog to get off furniture is about clear communication, positive reinforcement, and setting expectations. By using a positive “off” cue, you turn what could be a battle of wills into an easy, reward-based interaction.

Remember:

Avoid force and intimidation.
Use a fresh cue if needed.
Be consistent and patient.
If your dog shows aggression, seek professional help.

With practice, your dog will learn that responding to “off” is just another fun way to interact with you—without the stress!

References

Orr, J. Understanding Cues vs. Commands. Dog Training Journal.
American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB) – Resource Guarding in Dogs.
Karen Pryor Clicker Training – The Science Behind Positive Reinforcement.

Facts About Silent Dog Whistle Training

February 15, 2025November 27, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

You’ve probably seen it in movies—a dog owner blows a mysterious silent whistle, and their unruly pup instantly transforms into the most obedient dog on the planet. Like magic, right? Well, not exactly. While silent dog whistles can be an effective training tool, they aren’t the miracle fix that some people believe them to be. Training requires patience, reinforcement, and a deep understanding of canine behavior. Before you toss your silent whistle in the trash, let’s uncover the facts behind whistle training and what makes it work (or not work).

1) Dog Whistles Are Older Than You Think…

If you assume silent whistles are a product of modern innovation, think again! The concept of using whistles to train dogs is far from new. For centuries, shepherds have used their lungs, lips, and tongues to create distinct whistles that communicate specific commands to their herding dogs. These whistles were used to guide livestock from impressive distances.

Hunters, too, have relied on whistle signals to direct their retrievers, pointers, and setters during hunts. The ability to command a dog from far away without shouting has always been a valuable skill in both hunting and herding.

Did you know? The first official silent whistle was invented in 1876 by Sir Francis Galton, a scientist studying the hearing ranges of humans and animals. Because of this, silent dog whistles are sometimes referred to as “Galton Whistles” in honor of their creator.

2) The Modern-Day Utility of Silent Whistles

While shepherds and hunters have long benefited from whistle training, modern dog owners can also reap the rewards. Police and military forces frequently use silent whistles to issue discreet commands to working dogs. A police dog, for example, might receive a whistle signal to corner a suspect without tipping off the person being pursued, explains Stanley Coren in the book “How Dogs Think.”

But you don’t need to be a cop, a shepherd, or a hunter to enjoy the benefits of whistle training. Even an everyday pet owner can teach their dog to respond to a whistle for essential cues like sitting, staying, or recalling from a distance.

Many trainers now wear their silent whistles on a lanyard around their necks, ensuring they never misplace them. This also allows them to pair the whistle with visual cues, such as hand signals, to strengthen communication with their dogs.

3) Silent Whistles Operate in the Ultrasonic Range…

A silent whistle gets its name because it emits sounds at frequencies higher than what most humans can hear. Dogs, however, have superior hearing abilities and can detect sounds at much higher frequencies than humans.

Dogs’ ability to hear in the ultrasonic range is likely an evolutionary adaptation linked to their ancestors’ need to hunt small rodents. Many small prey animals emit high-frequency distress calls, making it advantageous for dogs to detect these sounds.

“Ultrasound may possess some innate significance as a directional indicator for detecting and locating small prey animals whose distress vocalizations are expressed at ultrasound frequencies.” — Steven Lindsay, Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training

Most silent dog whistles emit frequencies between 23,000 Hz and 54,000 Hz, which is above the range of human hearing (typically between 64 Hz and 23,000 Hz).

“Ideally, dog whistles emit a frequency of between 23,000 and 54,000 Hz, although some emit frequencies as low as 16,000 Hz (which people can hear) or much higher than 55,000 Hz (which dogs can’t hear).” — D. Caroline Coile & Margareth H. Bonham

4) …But They Aren’t Actually Silent!

Despite the name, most silent dog whistles aren’t truly silent. Many emit a faint hissing sound that humans can still detect. This isn’t a flaw; it’s actually beneficial! If your whistle were entirely silent to you, how would you know if it was working?

“Silent dog whistles make use of the high-frequency sounds that dogs can hear and we can’t, but they are something of a gimmick: Whistles that produce at least some sound audible to human ears are much easier for us to control.” — John Bradshaw

So, don’t be disappointed if you hear a soft noise when using your silent whistle—it just means it’s working as intended.

5) Dogs Aren’t Born Knowing What a Whistle Means

One of the biggest mistakes new whistle users make is assuming that dogs instinctively understand what a whistle means. They don’t.

Dogs aren’t born with an inherent understanding of silent whistles any more than they instinctively know what “sit” means. It’s up to the owner to condition the dog to respond to the whistle.

If you’ve ever read product reviews of silent whistles, you’ll likely come across complaints such as:

“My dog doesn’t react at all to this whistle!”
“It doesn’t stop my dog from barking!”

These reactions stem from a fundamental misunderstanding: The whistle itself doesn’t train the dog. Training is what trains the dog.

But They Can Be Conditioned to Respond to its Sound

A big mistake dog owners make when using a silent whistle is to not allow it to have a meaning.

Without any training, the dog may just show an orienting response the first few times the whistle is blown. The dog may twitch his ears in direction of the sound, perhaps turn his head or even come running to check on its source. Some dogs may bark.

On top of that, if the silent whistle is improperly overused, it just teaches dogs that it’s a sound they don’t need to listen for. Therefore, instead of learning to pay attention to it, they learn to ignore it (learned irrelevance), which is the opposite of what you might want.

To train a dog to come running at the sound of the silent whistle, the whistle needs to become a conditioned reinforcer for it to become effective. Conditioned reinforcers are basically things that are neutral and therefore don’t have much significance to the dog or minimal significance, but that through experience your dog has learned to appreciate because they have been associated with a primary reinforcer (anything your dog doesn’t need to learn to love) such as food.

How does a dog whistle assume such special meaning? Here is brief guide on whistle training a recall.

6) How to Properly Train a Dog Using a Silent Whistle

If your dog is already trained to come when called and reliably responds to his name, adding the whistle to the mix can be as easy as pie. Simply, let three to four repeated blasts precede the regular words you use for a recall repeatedly (eg. 3-4 whistle blasts then “Rover come!”), strongly reinforcing every time he comes to you with several treats given in a row.

After several repetitions of hearing the 3-4 whistles blasts followed by his name, your dog will soon start understanding that the new whistle blasts are a cue that precedes being called.

Since dogs have a tendency to anticipate, at some point, you’ll notice that he’ll start responding to the whistle alone even before you call his name!

If your dog instead isn’t reliable when it comes to coming when called, then you’ll have a little more work to do. Your first step is giving the whistle a strong meaning, and the best way is to do this is with tasty treats.

So start by blowing the whistle, and then giving a treat. Blow the whistle and give a treat. Repeat this exercise several times in a row, until your dog makes the association that the sound of the whistle means that a treat is coming. You know your dog got the the idea when, upon blowing your whistle, Rover comes looking for his treats.

Gradually, start increasing distance and adding distractions. Try blowing your whistle when your dog is away from you at a short distance and then when he is a bit distracted.

As your dog gets good at this, increase distance more and more and add more and more distractions. If your dog struggles coming to you at any time, you know that most likely, you are asking too much and your dog is not ready for this level of difficulty yet.

Progress slowly making sure you don’t jump ahead too much at a higher level when your dog still hasn’t mastered dealing with the challenges to the level prior to that.

Tip: If your dog loves meal time and it’s one of the most anticipated events of the day, have a helper hold him (use caution if he gets too frustrated) while you prepare his meal. Then, use those whistle blasts a split second before you place the bowl on the floor as your helper releases him. Your dog will rush to eat his meal. Repeat a few times in the next few days. Then, prepare his meal one day while he is out and about exploring in the yard. Then, place the bowl on the floor, open the door and use those whistle blasts to announce to him that his dinner is ready in his bowl. Your dog should come dashing inside and the whistle sound will soon become music to his ears!

The Bottom Line: Is Whistle Training Worth It?

Absolutely! Silent whistles can be a powerful tool, especially for recall training, distance work, and situations where voice commands might not carry well (such as in windy conditions). However, they are not a magic solution—you still have to put in the training.

A few final takeaways:

Whistles provide a clear, consistent signal that dogs can hear better than voice commands.
Dogs must be conditioned to respond to the whistle for it to be effective.
Not all silent whistles are completely silent—and that’s a good thing!
Choose the right whistle for your needs—some have fixed pitches, while others allow you to adjust frequency.

So, rather than expecting your dog to react to a silent whistle like a scene from a Hollywood movie, approach it as a scientifically backed tool that requires proper training. With consistency and patience, your dog can learn to respond reliably—and that’s when the real magic happens!

References:

Why Do Dogs Like Balls?: More Than 200 Canine Quirks, Curiosities, By D. Caroline Coile, Margaret H. Bonham, Sterling (September 2, 2008)
Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You A Better Friend …By John Bradshaw, Basic Books; First Trade Paper Edition edition (May 8, 2012)
Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Adaptation and Learning, By Steven R. Lindsay, Iowa State University Press, 2000.

Four Different Ways Dogs Learn

February 15, 2025November 17, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

How do dogs learn? When it comes to learning, dogs can be taught in several ways. Dogs do not come with an operating instruction manual nor with a troubleshooting guide. It’s up to us to understand how to teach a dog so that the dog can learn.

It is only by understanding the underlying machine that motivates dogs that we can really understand the engineering behind the art of dog training. Understanding how dogs learn is not difficult, nor should it be intimidating for dog owners.

Today, we’ll be taking a peak at four ways dogs may learn that a particular behavior has a consequence. By fully understanding dog learning theory, basically, the four consequences that can take place when dogs interact with their owners and their environment, you can make the learning process easier. Also, you can identify which dog friendly training methods to use so that you can better bond with your companion.

Life is a Series of Consequences

Think about your daily life—how many actions do you take based on potential consequences? You go to work because you get paid, you wear sunscreen to avoid sunburn, and you avoid speeding because getting a ticket is expensive (and stressful). Every decision we make is, in some way, influenced by outcomes. Dogs, too, learn by experiencing consequences.

In behavioral science, this cause-and-effect principle is known as operant conditioning, a term coined by B.F. Skinner but originally explored by Edward Thorndike. His Law of Effect states:

Responses that produce a satisfying effect in a particular situation become more likely to occur again, while responses that produce discomforting effects become less likely.

In simpler terms, behaviors that lead to good outcomes will repeat, while behaviors that lead to unpleasant outcomes will fade away. This fundamental concept is the blueprint of how dogs learn.

A Word About Reinforcement

Reinforcement is a behavior change process that takes place when the likelihood of a behavior increases in rate.

Reinforcement encourages behaviors and therefore it increases the likeliness of the behavior occurring.

Reinforcement can occur as the addition or subtraction of stimuli.

In order to be effective, reinforcement must occur in a timely manner and it must be contingent upon the behavior occurring.

For reinforcement to occur, the reinforcing stimulus should be added or subtracted during or immediately after a behavior.

When it comes to how dogs learn, there are two scenarios where dogs are more likely to increase and strengthen behaviors: positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement.

Did you know? Reinforcement can sometimes be generated directly by the behavior itself within the dog (self-reinforcement), rather than being socially mediated by the interactions between dog and trainer.

A Word About Punishment

Punishment is a behavior change process that takes place when the rate of a behavior decreases in rate.

Punishment suppresses behaviors, and therefore, it decreases the likeliness of the behavior occurring.

Punishment can occur as the addition or subtraction of stimuli. In order to be effective, punishment must occur in a timely manner and it must be contingent upon the behavior occurring.

For punishment to occur, the punisher stimulus must be added or subtracted during or immediately after a behavior. When it comes to how dogs learn, there are two scenarios where dogs are more likely to decrease and weaken behaviors: positive punishment and negative punishment.

Confused by all this? Let’s take a closer look at how dogs learn with some practical dog operant conditioning examples.

1. Positive Reinforcement: The Gold Standard

If there were an MVP award for dog training methods, positive reinforcement would win hands-down. This method involves adding (hence, “positive”) something enjoyable to increase the likelihood of a behavior occurring again.

Example:

Every time your dog sits on cue, you hand him a delicious treat. Over time, he eagerly sits whenever you ask because he has learned that “sitting = tasty rewards.”

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog discovers rabbit poop near the fence line. Since the poop is an irresistible delicacy (don’t judge—dogs have interesting tastes), the behavior of sniffing around the fence increases. The environment, not the human, has reinforced the behavior.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to your dog to determine what he considers to be reinforcing. If you use your dog ‘s kibble and your dog is a finicky eater to start with, he might find the fact of being offered kibble not reinforcing enough to make sitting repeatedly for it worth it. In such a case, you may have to experiment with high-value treats or other rewards, to get the sitting behavior to increase. Rather than speculating on whether your dog likes something or not, sometimes it’s far more productive to evaluate whether a behavior is increasing or not.

2. Negative Reinforcement: Escape & Avoidance

Negative reinforcement (the removal of something unpleasant to encourage behavior) is often misunderstood. While it can be effective, it is not as dog-friendly as positive reinforcement.

Example:

Applying steady pressure on a dog’s back end until he sits, then releasing the pressure once he does. The removal of pressure reinforces the sitting behavior.

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog retreats into his doghouse on a hot summer day to escape the burning sun. Since the shade brings relief, he’s more likely to seek shelter in the future.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to your dog to determine what he considers reinforcing. If your dog is really, really eager to be touched, even if that includes, pushing on his back, his sitting behavior will likely not increase. The behavior will increase only if the dog perceives the pressure as unpleasant and wants to escape it. Same with the example of the sun, in order to retreat to the dog house the dog must find the heat unpleasant. A Nordic dog with a heavy coat may therefore retreat more frequently or with minimum heat compared to a Chihuahua.

3. Positive Punishment: Adding an Aversive

Positive punishment occurs when something unpleasant is added to decrease a behavior. This quadrant is controversial, as it involves applying an aversive stimulus.

Example:

A dog jumps up on a person, and the person scolds him sternly. If the scolding is perceived as unpleasant, the jumping may decrease.

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog approaches a skunk and gets sprayed. After that, he learns to keep his distance from skunks.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to the dog to determine whether he considers the removal of a stimulus punishment. If the dog is home alone all day and socially motivated, there should be a significant decrease in the rate of jumping as the dog doesn’t like to be left alone. If the owner is home all day though, and the dog is often corrected for doing things which creates stress, the dog may perceive the owner’s absence as reinforcing, as he gets a feeling of relief.

4. Negative Punishment: Taking Away the Good Stuff

Negative punishment occurs when something desirable is removed to decrease an unwanted behavior.

Example:

A dog jumps up excitedly when his owner arrives home. To reduce jumping, the owner immediately turns away and ignores the dog. Over time, the jumping decreases because the dog learns that jumping makes the fun stop.

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog pounces at a squirrel, but the squirrel dashes into a hole and disappears. The dog, learning that pouncing isn’t an effective strategy, may eventually stop doing it.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to the dog to determine whether the added stimulus is punishing enough to make the behavior of jumping stop. If the dog in question is a soft dog who is also frightened by his owner when he uses a firm voice, the behavior of jumping may reduce and eventually stop. If the dog has been alone all day and is eager to greet the owner, even being scolded may be perceived as music to ears, so the scolding may be actually reinforcing if it gives him a slice of attention. In this case, the behavior will like not stop.

Which Methods Are Most Humane?

Of the four quadrants, positive reinforcement and negative punishment are widely considered the most humane and effective in training. The use of positive punishment and negative reinforcement often involves aversive, which can lead to stress, anxiety, or even aggression.

Aversive Training Risks

Many studies have highlighted the drawbacks of aversive training methods. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) and many board-certified veterinary behaviorists (DACVBs) strongly discourage positive punishment due to its potential for unintended side effects. For a deeper look at why aversive training is problematic, check out this must-read: “13 Negative Effects of Aversive Dog Training“.

The Final Verdict: Is Your Training Working?

One of the best ways to evaluate your training method is to ask yourself one simple question: Is my dog’s behavior increasing or decreasing?

If a behavior is increasing, reinforcement is at play.
If a behavior is decreasing, punishment is at work.

Dogs learn not only from their owners but also from their environment. Every interaction they have shapes their future behavior.

Want to learn more? Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dive into other ways dogs learn, including classical conditioning and social learning.

Final Thoughts: Learning Is a Two-Way Street

Understanding how dogs learn isn’t just about training them—it’s about strengthening your bond. By using science-backed, humane methods, you ensure your dog learns in a way that fosters trust, joy, and cooperation. Because at the end of the day, training isn’t just about getting a dog to “behave”—it’s about setting both of you up for a lifetime of mutual understanding.

Now go forth, reinforce wisely, and give your pup a treat for making it through this article!

References:

Excel-Erated Learning: Explaining in Plain English How Dogs Learn and How Best to Teach by Pamela J. Reid, James Kenneth Publishers (July 25, 2011)
How Dogs Learn (Howell reference books)by Mary R. Burch, Howell Book House; 1 edition (April 21, 2008)

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, TheRebelRobin Graduation! Blaze graduated from Dog Training 101, CCBY2.0

Myths on the Most Difficult Dog Breeds to Potty Train

February 15, 2025November 12, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The internet is filled with a deluge of articles proclaiming the so-called “most difficult dog breeds to potty train.” Yet, many of these articles fail to address the critical question: Why are some dog breeds perceived as more challenging to housebreak? More importantly, they often lack the necessary guidance to help these breeds succeed.

Rather than slapping labels like “stubborn” or—perish the thought—”stupid” onto certain breeds, we need to dig deeper into canine behavior, genetics, and environmental factors that influence house-training success. Mislabeling breeds can lead frustrated owners to resort to ineffective (and sometimes harmful) training techniques that do more harm than good. So, let’s break down the myths and reveal the real reasons why certain breeds struggle with potty training.

Toy Breeds: The Tiny Terrors of Potty Training?

Dog breeds in the toy group often top the charts when it comes to being labeled as the “hardest to housebreak.” We’re talking about Chihuahuas, Maltese, Papillons, Miniature Pinschers, Pomeranians, and Shih Tzus, just to name a few.

These are pups of diminutive sizes that are quite popular among city dwellers and people with small living spaces. While toy breeds have a great reputation for making ideal apartment dogs and perfect lap warmers for chilly nights, they have quite a bad reputation in the potty training department. Why is that?

There are various theories:

The Tiny Bladder Theory

A commonly cited reason for potty training struggles in toy breeds is their small bladders. And yes, it’s true—smaller dogs have smaller bladders, meaning they need to urinate more frequently. However, that’s just one piece of the puzzle.

The “Babied Dog Syndrome”

Toy dog owners tend to treat their pets like delicate little beings, often carrying them outside instead of training them to walk to the door and signal when they need to go. This can delay the learning process since the dog never develops the habit of independently communicating their potty needs.

The “Eh, It’s Just a Small Mess” Effect

Let’s be honest—cleaning up after a Chihuahua accident requires far less effort than dealing with a Great Dane disaster. A quick swipe with a paper towel, and it’s like the accident never happened. This leniency leads some owners to slack off on strict potty-training regimens, allowing bad habits to form.

“In the case of housetraining, I would be willing to bet that there is an incentive effect going on. Great danes who still urinate in the house at the age of six months create massive Def Con III incentives to buckle down and get the dog pottying outside, whereas, Yorkies might elicit only sighing or eye rolling.”~Jean Donaldson

Tip: Try having the same expectations as if you were potty training a Labrador retriever or Great Dane. In other words, be extra vigilant so that, upon noticing the first signs of your dog needing to go potty, you can quickly give your cue word and head together outside. To prevent your small dog from going potty in the house, do not make the biggest potty training mistake of many novice puppy owners: giving too much freedom at once. Your puppy should always be either in his pen, in the puppy-proofed yard, on a leash ( think umbilical cord technique) or under direct supervision in the house that’s limited to a small area with nothing blocking your view (and, most of all, strategically nearby the door!)

Struggles with Scent Hounds

Next in line, for the hardest dogs to housebreak are many dogs in the scent hound category. These include basset hounds, beagles, bloodhounds and dachshunds. Often these dogs are blamed for being difficult to housebreak because they are particularly stubborn dogs. In some cases, they are even labeled as stupid. Oh my!

Hounds are not stubborn nor stupid, they were simply selectively bred by humans for their powerful noses, and it’s not their fault if their noses interfere with the process of potty training.

One main issue is the fact their powerful sniffers are still able to detect soiled areas (yes, even after being cleaned) and therefore have a tendency to return to them because they simply, to put it bluntly “smell like a bathroom.”

Another issue encountered is that once taken out to potty, hounds may forget all about going potty and may decide to follow their noses instead. This is a behavior that can also be seen in several setters, spaniels and pointers, as dog breeds included in these categories have a strong tendency to explore and hunt.

“Some breeds, generally those that have been selected to have a particularly keen sense of smell (e.g, beagles) can be difficult to housebreak not because they are stupid, but because they scent any previously soiled area and return to it.” ~Karen Overall

Tip: Avoid cleaning products that contain ammonia or ammonium. Clean up all messes with enzyme based cleaners, and if your hound still returns to the same area over and over, try cleaning again, or worse comes to worse, block off the area with a piece of furniture. To prevent hounds from wandering should you have a large yard, fence off a small area of the yard and turn it into a formal designated potty area or take your hound out on a long leash.

Setbacks with Sight Hounds

Sight hounds include several dog breeds with a history of hunting by primarily using their eye sight. And indeed, the vision of sight hounds is quite amazing! Several sight hounds though are known for having a reputation as being difficult to housebreak. Irish wolfhounds, borzoi, Italian greyhounds and whippets in particular are often included in the list.

What’s up with them? Like the scent hounds, they may be easily distracted, but this time by anything that moves. So one moment they may be sniffing to go potty, the next they are going, going, gone. And when they are sent back inside, you named it: they’ll pee and poop on the carpet and owners perceive it as a setback.

Another issue with sight hounds is that many owners of rescued racing greyhounds may have to start potty training from zero, considering that many have only lived in a kennel environment and never in a house before, explains the Greyhound Adoption Program.

Not to mention another challenge: greyhounds and whippets are not too fond of cold weather and may not like to be sent out when it’s wet and cold, and who can blame them? They might therefore go out and put their bladders on strike or they may do a quick dribble just to make you happy and “open up the fountain” minutes later on your favorite rug.

“Many racing greyhounds have only ever lived in a kennel environment, with regular ‘let-outs’ for a run and toilet break during the day. Some greyhounds never receive any formal toilet training, and for a few of them, all the world is one big concrete toilet!”~Greyhound Adoption Program.

Tip: a long leash may turn helpful so to keep these dogs focused on what they need to do: go potty! Even if your yard is fenced, keep in mind that sight hounds have long legs and they can easily jump over a fence if motivated enough. Remember that sight hounds may take off after anything that moves and that includes squirrels, bikes and even the neighbor’s cat! And to prevent your sight hound from pottying when he comes back from outside, make sure to escort him outside – regardless of the weather, watching him like a hawk and making sure that he has eliminated before coming back inside. Oh, and don’t forget a cozy jacket so your dog stays nice and toasty and no more excuses for not pottying in the cold!

Tribulations with Terriers

Terriers are often categorized as being difficult to housetrain and these mostly include the smaller, working terriers bred as vermin hunting dog such as rat terriers and Jack Russells. Often these dogs are accused for being difficult to potty train because of their temperament.

Terriers are often depicted as being stubborn, independent dogs who are unwilling to take directions from their owners. Sure, terriers are quite smart, but it’s not like they have an agenda of outsmarting humans turning into bullies who want to eliminate where and when they want!

Terriers are just tenacious, independent thinkers considering that their job of hunting down underground critters did not require close teamwork with humans.

“Owning a terrier is a unique experience. These little bundles of canine determinedness often behave quite differently from other types of dogs; they can be noisy, feisty and always on the move… Something made each of us decide to share our hearts and homes with a terrier… now we need to accept the consequences of that decision and learn how to train these dogs to be the very best terriers they can be.” ~Dawn Antoniak-Mitchell

Tip: as mentioned, terriers are quite intelligent dogs that are quick to learn, and this goes both ways meaning that they are fast in learning good behaviors with proper motivation, but they’re equally fast in learning bad habits. Consistency is very important and you must ensure there aren’t any loopholes in your potty training program. This of course, applies to any dog, but terriers are just more apt to this.

Slow Maturers Lagging Behind

Think only small dog breeds are difficult to housetrain? Think again. Many people are surprised when owners of several large breed dogs are also struggling with potty training their dogs.

The problems with these dogs is that they quite slow to mature, which often translates into longer times to accomplish potty training. It’s not like these dogs aren’t smart enough, it’s just that their bodies and brains are just a step behind.

Large and giant dog breeds such as great danes, Saint Bernards, Bernese mountain dogs, Chinese shar-pei, Rottweilers, and mastiffs generally are not fully mature until they reach two years old or older. This doesn’t mean though it’ll take 2 years to potty train them!

Fortunately, owners are deterred by finding horse-size messes in their homes, and this certainly expedites the process. However, it’s not unusual for puppies of large and giant dog breeds not to be fully potty trained until they are on 6 to 8 months old, when other dog breeds may take less.

“Not all dogs develop at the same rate, and clients need to make allowances for this variability even if they have had the same breed or obtained the dog from the same breeder and lines.” ~Karen Overall

Tip: be patient! You may go through periods of time during which you think your dog has finally aced it, to other times where you notice a regression. Potty training slow to mature dogs breeds is made of these ups and downs and they’re perfectly normal.

Other Factors to Consider

So far, we have debunked some myths about certain dogs breeds being difficult to potty train such as some dogs being accused of being stubborn or plain stupid or others trying to become bullies so they can eliminate where they want. But perhaps an even bigger myth to debunk is that breed is the only factor.

Even within a dog breed, or even within a litter, there may be great variances in the potty training process from one pup to another. This is because, when having trouble potty training a dog, there are a dozen and more factors to keep in mind.

Is your puppy on a feeding schedule? Adhering to a feeding schedule can help you determine when your puppy is more likely to potty. Are you actively supervising? Failure in doing so means you’re missing important opportunities to train. Are you praising and rewarding for going outdoors? Behaviors that are rewarded tend to strengthen and repeat. Are you using puppy training pads? These can be challenging to use.

Are you ensuring your dog enters the home with an empty bladder/bowel? If you don’t, your puppy will go potty the moment he comes in. Is the puppy from a pet store? Puppies in stores often come from puppy mills and are more difficult to potty train. Are you punishing your puppy when he has accidents? Doing so will only make the process more difficult as this just teaches your puppy to secretly go in area out of your sight. Is your puppy peeing when he greets you or when you scold him? You might be dealing with a case of excitement or submissive urination. Does your puppy have a substrate preference? Acknowledging this can make things easier. And if you’re struggling a whole lot, give your puppy or dog the benefit of doubt and, with the help of your vet, determine if you’re dealing with a behavioral or medical problem. With all that said, happy potty training to all!

References:

Oh Behave: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker, By Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing (April 1, 2008)
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, 1e 1 Pap/DVD Edition, by Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)

13 Negative Effects of Aversive Dog Training Methods

November 7, 2016November 6, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Despite the advancement of modern dog training, there are still countless dog owners and trainers who rely on using aversive dog training methods. Even veterinarians use them at times. Not too long ago, a client reported to me that her German shepherd puppy was barking at the vet when the vet decided to give the puppy an alpha roll correction because (in his belief) the puppy was trying to challenge him and deserved a lesson in respect. Still as of today, this angers me because the pup was only taught to fear vet offices and vets and being touched. It’s unfortunate that these training methods are still popular today, but it’s not surprising considering that they’re still being promulgated by television shows along with the belief that these methods are more effective.

What are Aversive Dog Training Methods?

So what exactly is aversive dog training? Let’s take a closer look into the word aversive, what does it mean? Webster dictionary defines it as “tending to avoid or causing avoidance of a noxious or punishing stimulus.”

Wikipedia talks about aversive in psychological terms:

“Aversives are unpleasant stimuli that induce changes in behavior through punishment; by applying an aversive immediately following a behavior, the likelihood of the behavior occurring in the future is reduced.Aversives can vary from being slightly unpleasant or irritating (such as a disliked color) to physically damaging. It is not the level of unpleasantness, but rather the effectiveness the unpleasant event has on changing behavior that defines the aversive.”

How are aversives applied in dog training? Here are a few examples.

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By positive punishment, by adding an unpleasant stimulus when the undesired behavior occurs. (Example: a dog is startled with a spray of water the moment he jumps on a person. Result: The behavior of jumping should reduce and stop if the dog hates water enough–by the way, this is often how dogs become water phobic, then one wonders why they dread baths and don’t want anything to do with water)
By negative punishment, by removing a pleasant stimulus when the undesired behavior occurs (Example: a dog is punished by removing access to other dogs –timeout- the moment the dog plays rough. Result: the behavior of playing rough should reduce and stop if the dog is socially motivated )
By negative reinforcement, by removing an unpleasant stimulus when the desired behavior occurs (Example: a dog is continuously shocked and the delivery of shock is only removed once the dog performs the desired behavior of coming to the dog owner. Result: with time, the chances for a dog not coming when called should reduce since the dog should be more eager to comply to avoid the shock. In this case, the dog is reinforced by removing shock, but there’s also an element of punishment at play since the dog is repeatedly shocked using the continuous shock feature for not coming when called. For more on this read training a dog to come with a shock collar. )

” Negative reinforcement requires that an aversive first be applied or threatened in order for it to be removed.”~ Melissa Alexander

The Individual Factor

As seen, the aversive methods described above vary quite greatly in intensity. They go from denying social access through a time-out to continuous shocks until the dog complies to come when called.

Therefore, as Wikipedia mentioned, the term aversive doesn’t necessarily need to be associated with pain. It can range from a mild discomfort from being exposed to some unpleasant social situation (a child being embarrassed in front of the class for forgetting to turn in homework) to withdrawal from attaining something desired (telling a child he can’t stay in line for ice-cream until he stops whining).

One important consideration is keeping into consideration the individual dog. The dog is ultimately who decides what’s aversive. Using a cookie-cutter approach in training methods without considering individuality, may lead to problems, big problems too. For instance, many dog trainers use negative punishment under the form of time-outs when dogs misbehave, but can you imagine how aversive a time-out can be to a dog suffering from separation anxiety?

Even what we perceive as “dog friendly” training methods can turn out not being not as dog friendly as we think if we “listen to” the individual dog. This can be shocking, but let me give an example. Not too long ago, we had a very sensitive dog over for boarding. The owner said she always dreamed that her dog learned a few basic cues such as sit and down. She took her dog previously to classes and her dog wasn’t able to learn anything. Nothing. And yes, the trainers were skilled and invested in using positive reinforcement.

Turned out, upon closer evaluation, this dog didn’t want anything to do with hands near her face. So putting a cookie (no matter how great it smelled) near her nose to guide her into a sit was highly aversive to her. Any hand movement caused her to close up and withdraw inhibiting her from learning. Did she learn to sit and lie down? You bet, and she even turned out to be an enthusiastic learner which the owner was ecstatic about, but we had to use a different training method known as “capturing “ for all that.

Now, this doesn’t mean that aversive dog training doesn’t work. To the contrary, done correctly aversive dog training methods can be effective. Do these methods work? Yes, when punishment is delivered at right time, at the right level of intensity and contingent on the problem behavior, it can be very effective but…, and this is a big BUT, is it worth it?

” Punishment is like carpet bombing. The behavior you wanted to target gets hit but so can a huge portion of the dog‘s whole repertoire.”~ Jean Donaldson

dog-aversive Effects of Aversive Dog Training Methods

One main issue about aversive dog training methods is the problematic fall-out; basically, side effects that can be far worse than the original problem that owners and trainers were trying to correct. These effects are more likely to happen with the more intense versions rather than the minimally aversive ones.

Back to the German shepherd puppy, sure, the pup stopped barking when once pushed to the floor by the vet, but what happened next? What did the puppy really learn? Dogs learn by consequences but also by association, so likely, the pup learned that vet offices are scary places and vets are not to be trusted.

But perhaps even most concerning, the pup likely learned that since his warning bark to “please stay away, I am not comfortable around you,” was suppressed, he had to rely on a more effective strategy to protect himself from somebody cornering him and putting his hands on him next time. And not surprisingly, that’s what the client was actually seeing me for that day. This German shepherd pup was nipping at hands and had a high reluctance to being handled and touched. Of course, it didn’t help that the owner continued applying the training advice from the vet, that “sound advice” to alpha roll the pup any time he engaged in undesired behaviors. But this is only one fallout out of 13 (and likely more) that can derive from the use of aversive dog training methods.

13 Negative Effects of Aversive Dog Training

1 ) Aversive dog training methods can be risky, especially when applying methods that can induce defensiveness from the dog. A dog who is being alpha rolled may (rightfully so!) decide not to take it one day, as the pup described above, and may bite as soon as he sees the hands moving towards him.

If the vet performed the alpha roll instead of on a puppy, on an 85 pound, 3-year old German shepherd he could have been severely injured.

Therefore, as seen with my client’s puppy, aversive training methods potentially evoke defensive behaviors to surface that often were non-existent if such methods weren’t utilized in the first place!

Why does the popular National Geographic show featuring scruff shakes and alpha rolls feature a big disclaimer: “do not try this at home”? Because of these risks. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, warns about these risks explaining how people recommending these techniques are taking a liability risk.

Did you know? According to a study conducted by Meghan Herron, DVM, DACVB, Frances Shofer, DVM and Ilana Reisner, DVM, DACVB, of the Matthew Ryan Veterinary Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania, it was found that when dog owners resorted to harsh confrontational techniques, dogs responded with aggression.

More precisely, just to get an idea: 43 percent of dogs responded with aggression when being hit or kicked, 39 percent reacted to an alpha roll, 38 percent responded aggressively to having an owner grab their mouth and take out an object forcefully and 26% percent responded defensively when given a scruff shake.

2) Aversive dog training methods can be potentially reinforcing to the person applying them. If a person is frustrated by a dog who is repeatedly jumping, he or she may feel better when he pinches the dog’s paw and the dog stops jumping and yelps in surprise or pain. This circle of reinforcement is what causes the person applying such methods to want to use them more and more, even possibly as the first line treatment of choice. It’s what makes people swear on the effectiveness of aversive methods and be reluctant to want to try other methods. It’s also sadly what causes some to want to engage in more and more severe forms when they milder ones may no longer be working, initiating a vicious cycle that’s abuse or very close to it.

3) The application of aversive dog training methods have a tendency for generating emotional response such as fear and anxiety. Through conditioning, dogs tend to form associations with the unpleasant happening. As in the case of my client, it would not be surprising if her German shepherd would develop fear or a general dislike of the vet’s office and veterinarians in general or just being approached by a stranger.

“Positive reinforcement should be the first line of teaching, training and behavior change program considered, and should be applied consistently. Positive reinforcement is associated with the lowest incidence of aggression, attention seeking, and avoidance/fear in learners.” ~Association of Professional Dog Trainers

4) On top of forming negative associations with certain stimuli or events, through a phenomenon known as “generalization”dogs may generalize their anxiety to other similar stimuli or events. For instance, a dog may be fearful of a broom because a person in the past used it to scare off the dog but then may expand his fear to people walking with canes or people mopping the floor.

“Even when punishment seems mild, in order to be effective it often must elicit a strong fear response, and this fear response can generalize to things that sound or look similar to the punishment”~American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior

5) Once aversive training methods allow fear to establish and put roots, these responses become difficult to eradicate and this is because dogs (and generally all living creatures) have an instinct to act defensively or avoid stimuli or events that are perceived as frightening.

6) When a dog is subjected to training methods based on aversion and intimidation, their cognitive functions can potentially shut down and this may interfere with their ability to learn.

7) When a dog learns to rely on defensive behaviors, such behaviors quickly become part of a dog’s new behavior repertoire because these behaviors are often reinforcing. If the German shepherd tries to bite hands that are moving towards him and the person quickly withdraws his hands, the snapping at the hands behavior is reinforced and will become more difficult to eradicate. Of course, this problem would be non-existent if aversive based methods were not employed in the first place.

8) Aversion-based methods contribute to stress and on top of developing defensive behaviors, dogs may develop escape behaviors and displacement behaviors such as repeated paw licking and scratching.

9) Aversive training methods are not guaranteed to work. If a dog’s paw is pinched when he jumps on the owner, not necessarily this will discourage further jumping, if the joy of greeting the owner supersedes the temporary pinch. This is why many dog owners are frustrated that their dogs still pull on the leash despite being choked by a collar holding them back. The reward of sniffing a bush or greeting another dog may supersede the temporary pain or discomfort.

10) If punishment is not always contingent upon the undesired behavior, the dog has the opportunity to rehearse the undesired behavior without consequence, which means the undesired behavior will continue to surface and even become more troublesome since the behavior is put on a variable schedule (sometimes it’s punished, sometimes it’s not) which is the schedule that triggers addiction (just as it happens with people gambling at Vegas.)

11) When an unwanted behavior is suppressed through aversive dog training methods, it creates a void that will likely be filled with other problem behaviors. For example, if a bored dog is punished for chewing in the yard, he’ll likely start digging and barking because he’s not provided an outlet for his needs for mental stimulation.

“Punishment can suppress aggressive and fearful behavior when used effectively, but it may not change the underlying cause of the behavior. “~American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior

12) When using aversive dog training methods, there are risks that the dog starts associating punishment with the person’s presence. If a person smacks a puppy with a newspaper for urinating on the carpet, such punishment will not teach the puppy to go to the door next time, but rather to urinate under the sofa out of the owner’s view. This because the puppy has learned to associate punishment with the person’s presence.

““Receiving shocks is painful experience to the dogs, and the S-dogs (the dogs who received shock) evidently have learned the presence of their owner (or his commands) announces the reception of shocks even outside the normal training context.”~Matthijs B.H. Schilder a,b,∗, Joanne A.M. van der Borg

13) Last but not least, aversive based training can inhibit dogs from offering new behaviors as it may happen with dogs who become tentative in picking up objects. If a puppy is consistently punished for picking up objects with his mouth such as the remote control or shoes, the puppy soon learns that it’s bad to pick up anything with their mouths. This can create great difficulties in the future when training the dog to retrieve an object. A better option with no negative side effects? Teach the trade game.

Alternative to Aversive Dog Training Methods

“But I have been using these methods for years, they have worked for me, why should I ditch them?” This is often a self-defense mechanism due to fear of something new, it’s the (normal) resistance associated with the hesitancy of embracing an unexplored world.

It’s often comforting to stick to past methods, just as it was comforting in the past for teachers to have all children use the right hand because that was the “right side.” Long time lefty here who survived the right-hand movement, thanks to a stubborn mom!

Most of all, the resistance is because of lack of awareness of alternatives to effective non-aversive methods.”If I don’t use aversives what is left that can equally effective?” Knowledge is ultimately power.

There are plenty of alternative methods and more and more trainers, behavior consultants and veterinarians are embracing them. They are effective, most are minimally aversive, but never forget the golden rule of considering the individual dog.

Management, sure this is not actual active training, but it prevents rehearsal of problem behaviors
The use of prompts helps the dog to perform desired behaviors
Antecedent arrangements can be incorporated so to help dogs make good choices
Positive reinforcement strengthens desired behaviors and increases the chances of them repeating
Differential reinforcement can be used to specifically reinforce desired behavior and extinguish the undesirable
Desensitization with counterconditioning work great for behavior modification
Negative punishment used to stop unwanted behaviors by removing access to things the dog likes.
Extinction helps extinguish problem behaviors because they no longer gain reinforcement
Learn how to implement Leslie McDevitt’s LAT or Jean Donaldson’s Open Bar, Closed Bar

Having a hard time? Don’t be too quick to move on to using aversive methods! Ask around, many trainers will be willing to help out, ask what methods they use or get creative and invent your own methods and give them a try, you might come up with something powerful!

As seen, there are plenty of better options that do not involve, pain, fear and intimidation! Why rush up on using aversive training methods when there are many options you can try first? You’ll be surprised how you may attain results and often quickly, without the need to ever use shock, pain and intimidation.

References:

Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviors Meghan E. Herron, Frances S. Shofer, Ilana R. Reisner, Department of Clinical Studies, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, 3900 Delancey Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104-6010, USA
American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, The Use of Punishment for Behavior Modification in Animals, retrieved from the web on Novermber 6th, 2016
Emily J. Blackwell, Caroline Twells, Anne Seawright, Rachel A. Casey, The relationship between training methods and the occurrence of behavior problems, as reported by owners, in a population of domestic dogs, Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research, Volume 3, Issue 5, September–October 2008, Pages 207-217
Schalke, E., Stichnoth, J. and Jones-Baade, R. (2005) Stress symptoms caused by the use of electric training collars on dogs (Canis Familiaris) in everyday life situations.
Training Dogs With the Help of the Shock Collar: short and long term behavioural effects(Schilder, van der Borg) Applied Animal Behaviour Science 85 (2004) 319–334

Photo Credits:

Michael Gil, Discipline!, No Dogs were harmed in the taking of this picture! CCBY2.0
Wikipedia, Mdk572 (CC BY-SA 3.0)

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Dog Training Guarantees, Not as Good as Thought

October 15, 2016October 15, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Let’s face it: we live in an era where everything seems to come with some sort of guarantee, from coffee makers to faucets, to offers that promise 100 percent money back if customers aren’t entirely satisfied; however, when it comes to dog training offering a guarantee may not be as good as it may sound. Sure, there may be legit and ethical dog trainers who offer certain types of guarantees, but if we’re talking about the type of “we’ll fix your dog’s problems in one session, money back guarantee” type, this is a red flag often denoting a lack of fundamental understanding about what truly goes on when it comes to training dogs a new skill or changing dog behavior.

Dog Behavior Problem Guarantees

Your plumber may be able to fix your clogged toilet in one appointment and your mechanic may change a tire in just about an hour, but dog behavior problems cannot be “fixed” in one behavior modification session. It may sometimes appear so, but it takes much longer than that, especially if we’re talking about certain behaviors that have been rehearsed for quite some time and are have become quite established in a dog’s repertoire of behaviors.

Statements and promises such as ”your dog will be cured from aggression” or ”you’ll have a totally changed dog in this “x” amount of time” or ” we guarantee instant results” should raise a bright, red flag.

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The truth is, a dog behavior consultant who is able to “fix” a problem in just one session is often using harsh, punishment-based methods. What looks like a “fix,” as often seen happening in TV shows where dogs are magically transformed in just a half an hour program are just dogs responding to harsh methods which aim to suppress outward manifestations of behavior problems rather than addressing the underlying, internal issue (an issue of emotions).

Dog Training Guarantees

Sure, a dog can be trained to sit in one, single training session, but is the dog really “trained?” It depends on how you interpret the word “trained.”

If you mean that your dog will sit when you move a cookie from his nose to the back of his head in an upward motion, then, yes, your dog is “trained” to do so,” but if we’re talking about training, where your dog sits upon hearing the verbal cue sit in any place and any time most of the time, we’re a far cry from reaching that goal.

Training a dog takes time, as muscle memory sinks in and behaviors become more and more fluent as dogs are exposed to increasing levels of distractions.

Is a dog really ever fully trained? Most likely not . A dog is always in training as he’s constantly learning and improving in a never ending journey throughout his life.

A Matter of Ethics

Offering guarantees is not only unrealistic, but it is also unethical too. According to the Certification Council of Professional Dog Trainers Code of Ethics, certficants must “refrain from providing guarantees regarding the specific outcome of training.”

According to the Association of Professional Dog Trainers members must “refrain from giving guarantees regarding the outcome of training, because there is no sure way to guarantee the cooperation and performance of all parties involved and because the knowledge of animal behaviorists incomplete. This should not be confused with a desire to guarantee client satisfaction with professional services.”

The Pet Professional Guild, an association for force-free pet professionals, claims “A professional force-free dog trainer will not guarantee their training results. There are too many variables involved and a professional dog trainer cannot control these…The results will be dependent on many things, including your level of commitment and compliance to the recommended program.”

The Bottom Line

Training a dog a new skill or tackling a behavior issue is not something that can be accomplished overnight. The saying “too good to be true” also applies to the world of training dogs and changing behavior. If you expect your dog to magically change at the touch of a wand as seen in a Hollywood makeover, think again: this is likely not going to happen.

Also, dog owners should remember to read the fine print. Often, what is being guaranteed is not the outcome of the dog’s training, but the client’s compliance in following the instructions provided in the training lesson. Therefore, the guarantee is no longer considered valid when owners fail to follow their training program to the letter. Dog owners should therefore be wary of unrealistic promises such as “instant results”, “guaranteed results” or “lifetime guarantees. ”

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Ged Carroll, 100% happiness guaranteed, CCBY2.0

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Dog Snake Avoidance Without Shock

October 13, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

If you live in an area that has dangerous snakes such as rattlesnakes, you may be looking for solutions to prevent your dog from encountering snakes or perhaps you are thinking about enrolling your dog in some sort of snake aversion training. Today, there are several solutions to prevent your dog from interacting with dangerous snakes and there are also steps you can take to prevent your dog from becoming another victim of a snake bite. While most snake aversion training involves the use of painful shock collars, nowadays, more and more trainers are offering snake avoidance training for dogs without the use of shock.

Conventional Aversion Training

Conventional aversion training is based on the belief that, in order to train a dog to avoid snakes, something really negative must happen that will leave a strong impact on him. And of course, since getting bitten is out of question, this is where the use of a shock collar comes into place. The purpose is to create a setup similar to what has been done in many past studies on rats that were conditioned to avoid things through the use of shock. For example, a rat may have been shocked every time he pressed a lever, so with time, the rat quickly learned to avoid pressing that scary lever so to avoid the shock.

In snake aversion training, something very similar is happening. If every time the dog shows interest in a snake he is shocked, at some point he’ll associate the snake with pain and will no longer want to have anything to do with the snake. In order to accomplish this though the shock must leave a memorable impression on the dog, therefore the shock used is often so intense and startling that the dog literally jumps off the ground yelping in pain. Some trainers may use milder shocks but in a repeated sequence until the dog learns to leave the snake alone.

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The Problems with Shock

As much as using shock seems effective, on top of the pain and fear it evokes, there are several things that can go wrong. For instance, some dogs may end up purposely attacking rattlesnakes after snake aversion training because of all the negative associations, explains Jamie Robinson a dog trainer who teaches snake avoidance classes without shock in Tucson, Arizona. Talk about training having the total opposite effect! Not to mention the risk of side effects such as dogs fearing things other than the snake or even developing phobias of things that somewhat remind them of snakes such as oscillating sprinklers that make a hissing sounds resembling a snake’s rattle, further explains Jamie Robinson in an article for the Whole Dog Journal.

But it doesn’t end here, there are even more problems. According to dog trainer Nancy Tanner, the most common areas dogs are bitten is on the leg or chest as dogs are running around and get bitten while in motion. This suggests that no amount of snake aversion training will prepare dogs for these scenarios, as the bites occur unexpectedly. So a dog may be running through a field hunting when he steps on a snake and the bite comes unexpectedly.

On top of that, one must also consider than no training is foolproof, and that even snake aversion trainers, recommend holding “refresher” classes to ensure the dog is reminded that snake encounters are painful. Many people are lulled into a false sense of security with this type of training and end up putting their dogs at unnecessary risk. Management, basically the good, old adage of “staying out of the trouble” is ultimately the wisest approach and this is the dog owner’s responsibility.

Did you know? According to Red Rock Biologics, approximately 300,000 dogs and cats are bitten by venomous snakes each year in the United States

Staying Out of Trouble

How can you keep your dog away from dangerous snakes? For starters, it’s a good idea to learn as much as you can about the type of snakes that are living in your area. Most States have a website that lists the varieties of venomous and non-venomous snakes that have called your local place their home. You don’t need to become a top expert herpetologist, just learn more about the variety of snakes in your area, their preferred habitat and how to stay out of trouble. For instance, most rattlesnakes are found in the southwestern United States, and they like to stick around rocks and nearby edges of water such as creeks and rivers. It’s therefore best to avoid tall grass and rocky areas where snakes can hide, and of course, play it safe by keeping your dog safely on leash and being extra careful of where you step!

Tip: keep the grass cut low in your yard and clear out piles of wood, rocks or rubbish where snakes may like yo hide. Secure garbage cans and don’t leave bird seed around. Also, keep animals snakes prey on, such as rodents and crickets away from your property. You might want to consider installing a snake-proof fence.

A Few Training Tips

But what if a dog owner wants to train a dog to move away at the smell, sight or sound of snakes? Or what if no matter all of your precautions your dog ends up one day encountering a snake? There are several training cues that can turn helpful to re-direct a dog away from a snake. Here are few tips.

Polish your dog’s emergency recall. You want to make coming to you so reinforcing that your dog just stops in his tracks and comes running to you, no questions asked. A solid emergency recall can turn out being a life saver, whether your dog got loose and is heading towards a road full of traffic or approaching a venomous snake. Practice the emergency recall in different scenarios and situations, gradually increasing the level of distractions, preferably under the guidance of a trainer.
Train the “leave it” cue. This teaches your dog to leave whatever he is interacting with or about to interact with, and come to you for a reward. You don’t have to always have treats in your pockets for this. In the case, you are caught empty handed with no treats, your dog will still “leave it” if this cue has a strong history of reinforcement. Make sure though to lavishly praise and play a game with your dog.
Practice recall and leave its with a fake plastic snake. Place the fake snake in the middle of a room and practice walking your dog by it as you say “leave it” and praise and reward for ignoring it. Afterward, practice this with the snake placed outdoors around the yard and then you can even try having a helper drag the fake snake around tall grass while you practice distraction training. Ideally, try with different types of plastic snakes.
If you have the possibility, practice with a live or dead non-venemous snake. Ask a snake expert to borrow a non-venomous species such as a bullsnake for practice. This is an important step because a live snake has “eau de snake” something that fake snakes don’t have. This is as close you can get to training with the “real thing” in a safe way.
What if you are not around to call your dog or tell him to “leave it?” Training a dog to leave a snake alone is no different from training a dog to alert about finding drugs, truffles or warning a person about an impending seizure. If you are interested in training snake avoidance without shock consider that there are books and classes offered by several trainers nowadays.

Did you know? Nowadays a rattlesnake vaccine is crafted for dogs who are potentially exposed to rattlesnakes.

References:

Whole Dog Journal, Snake Aversion Without Shock, retrieved from the web on October 13th, 2016
Schalke, E., Stichnoth, J. and Jones-Baade, R. (2005) Stress symptoms caused by the use of electric training collars on dogs (Canis Familiaris) in everyday life situations.

Photo Credits:

Diensthund der Bereitschaftspolizei Würzburg, TheHidden – Own work (= “Selbst fotografiert”) CC BY-SA 3.0, edited to focus on dog

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