Glossary

Dog Word of the Day: Stretching the Ratio

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What does it mean to stretch the ratio when it comes to dog training? First of all, it’s important to understand how dogs are trained in the initial stages of learning. When it comes to dog training, positive reinforcement is a very powerful and effective tool as it offers the win-win situation of strengthening desired behaviors while making the training process fun and rewarding without resorting to pain, punishment or intimidation. To better understand what stretching the ratio means, we will therefore have to take a peak at what happens to dogs during the initial stages of learning and how we can balance a reduced reliance on treats with keeping the dog motivated and happy.

dog stretch the ratioThe Power of Positive Reinforcement

When we apply positive reinforcement, we are basically adding a consequence that, from the dog’s perspective, is rewarding enough so to entice him to want to repeat the behavior. The power of positive reinforcement is that it results in behaviors increasing and strengthening. So for example, if we are training our dog to sit and give him a treat every time his bottom touches the floor, with time and practice, we will see an increase of the sitting behavior.

When we provide our dogs with a reward for every desired response, we are using what is known as a Continuous Schedule of Reinforcement (CRF). This schedule is not limited to dog training. We can see plenty of examples of this happening in our everyday lives. Every time we press the power button on our remotes, our T.V. it turns on (when the battery is not dead of course), every time we turn the notch of our gas stove, the burner lights up, every time we insert a dollar bill in the vending machine, it releases our favorite soda.

The Problems With Using CRF

While a continuous schedule works great initially when we first start training a new behavior, if we continue rewarding the dog all the time for every correct response we will eventually end up rewarding also below average responses. For example, when we reward our dog for sitting correctly all the time, most likely among those sits are also slow-to-respond sits, and we may expect even, sloppy sits (with the legs spread out to the side) to mix in every now and then. By continuing to dole out treats for every single correct response we will be therefore removing opportunities for improvement and the quality of the behavior is affected. On top of that, the longer the dog is rewarded for every correct response, the harder it becomes to start phasing out all those rewards when a dog has relied on them for so long. This results in a dog who expects a reward every single time.

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” If you reward a dog for every correct response, approximately 50% of the time you will reward the dog for above–average responses and 50% of the time you will reward a dog for below average responses. It is simply too silly to reward a dog for below-average responses.” Ian Dunbar

A Bit of a Stretchdog sit

Stretching the ratio is the procedure used to gradually increase the number of responses required for the dog to earn reinforcement (rewards that increase/strengthen behaviors). We don’t want to phase out the food rewards completely, otherwise the behavior risks becoming extinct eventually disappearing from the dog’s behavior repertoire. So at some point, once the dog shows signs of responding at a steady rate, it’s time to stretch the ratio and start working our way up from a continuous schedule to an intermittent one, where behavior is rewarded randomly on some occasions and not others, which works great for maintaining behavior and preventing it from becoming extinct. This schedule indeed leads to permanence of the behavior. An intermittent schedule also works great for gradually thinning out those food rewards, so that the dog doesn’t rely on them too much. Yes, gradually is the important keyword here!

“Stretching the ratio: gradually increasing the number of times a behavior must be performed to qualify for reinforcement. May produce ratio strain if done incorrectly.” ~Science of Behavior

dog training mistakesPreventing Ratio Strain

Just like an elastic band may break if you stretch it too much, your dog’s behavior may start breaking apart if you stretch the ratio too much. Ratio strain is the technical term used to depict the phenomenon when a dog’s pattern of responding begins disrupting because of stretching that ratio too much. It’s the classic cliche’ seen in workplaces across the globe when workers start grumbling because they are overworked and underpaid.

So asking too much and giving a low rate of reinforcement frequency can cause problems that may lead to dogs getting too frustrated, showing displacement behaviors and giving up. Just imagine what a person  would do if the vending machine doesn’t deliver the soda upon inserting  the dollar bill. Most likely, he may try pushing the buttons and possibly even kicking the machine!

So to prevent this from happening, we can stretch the ratio very gradually, and if we need to remedy the situation, we can temporarily increase the rewards for a bit until we reestablish the behavior and then we can start gradually stretching.

The process of stretching the ratio must therefore be very gradual as we’re shaping persistence. We would therefore start by giving a treat to the dog for every successful sit at first (CRF), then as the dog responds at a steady rate, we can start giving the treat every other sit, then we can start rewarding randomly like the third sit, the second sit, the fifth sit, etc. This is a good time to start raising criteria, raising the bar and paying attention to what the dog does so we can start picking out only the best sits to reward, so that we improve quality. Once we have successfully stretched the ratio, we should see a dog who is on his toes and eager to work for that random reward, yes, just like a gambler playing the slots at Vegas!

“Casinos, believe me, use the power of the variable ratio schedule to develop behaviors, such as playing slot machines, that are very resistant to extinction, despite highly variable and unpredictable reinforcement.”~Karen Pryor

dog grasssAn Up and Down Process

Moving from a continuous schedule to an intermittent one is not a clear cut process like turning on a light switch. For example, when your dog learns to sit reliably in your living room (like at least eight times out of ten,) you may start giving treats randomly, but then, once you’re out in the yard, where there are more distractions around, your best bet is to move back to a continuous schedule temporarily until your dog responds reliably in spite of those distractions. Also, when training a dog to perform a behavior when using shaping (a training method that entails rewarding successive approximations of the final behavior ) ” you’ll also find yourself rewarding continuously and then variably at times as you establish new criterion.

“Reinforcement may go from predictable to a little unpredictable back to predictable, as you climb, step by step, toward your ultimate goal…Marian Breland Bailey told me she called this a “shaping schedule.” It’s a natural part of the shaping process.”~ Karen Pryor

Tip: If you couple giving a reward with praise (eg. good boy!), your dog will associate those words with something good, so that when you’re not giving treats, praise will still have good value to communicate a job well done!

warning cautionDid you know? Stretching the ratio is astutely used in gambling establishments. Card sharks will let you win frequently during the early stages of play and then once you’re hooked, they’ll stretch the ratio gradually and then start winning more and more of the games, explains Paul Chance in the book “Learning and Behavior.”

 

References:

  • Clicker Training, Extinction and Intermittent Reinforcement, retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • Clicker Training, Reinforce Every Behavior? retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • The Whole Dog Journal, Common Training Mistakes, retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • Learning and Behavior: Active Learning Edition (PSY 361 Learning) 6th Edition, by Paul Chance, Cengage Learning; 6 edition (February 22, 2008)

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Capturing

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When it comes to dog training, there are several methods that can be used to “get behaviors.” Because training a dog should be fun and aim to creating a foundation of trust, empathy and mutual respect, the best training methods entail no fear or intimidation. Capturing can be particularly useful for shy, tentative dogs or for a new puppy who needs to learn some basics. It is also one of the easiest ways to train for the novice owner because there are no prompts or food lures to fade. So let’s discover more about capturing, how it works, its advantages and disadvantages and when this training method can be particularly useful.

capturingWhat is Capturing in Dog Training?

Capturing in dog training entails rewarding spontaneous, natural behaviors as they unfold. In a sort of way, it’s similar to the art of taking pictures. When you hold a camera, you “capture” moments in present life that you like so that you can then look at them later. In capturing, we are marking and rewarding desired behaviors our dogs perform the moment they happen. If you can take pictures, you can train your dog by capturing. All you need to do is to observe your dog, wait for the desired behavior to happen, and then “mark” it with a click of the clicker or a verbal marker such as “yes.” The click of the clicker or verbal marker “yes” works in a similar fashion as the shutter button of the camera. It informs the dog that that is the exact behavior we want and that a treat is on its way.

Examples of Capturing 

Need some examples on how to use capturing to train a dog? Here are a few examples. Since we are rewarding spontaneous behaviors as they unfold, it can sometimes take a bit of time for the dog to perform them, but we sometimes use a little bit of help to make them more likely to happen. For instance, if we want to capture a down, we can simply coordinate the time when this is more likely to happen with our training sessions. So a good time would be when we exercised our dog or went on a walk and our dog is a tad bit tired. We can therefore sit on the couch and wait for our dog to lie down spontaneously. As soon as our dog lies down, we can then mark the behavior with the click of the clicker or verbal marker “yes!” followed by a treat. To increase the likeliness for the dog to lie down again, we can toss the treat at a distance so the dog must get up to get it.

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Another example of using capturing is to train a dog to take a bow. In this case, we will be simply waiting for the dog to take a bow spontaneously, such as when the dog wakes up first thing after taking a nap or when he invites us to play with him. Even in this case, we can coordinate our training  session with when our dog is likely to get up from a nap or when he’s in the mood for playing. Upon taking a bow, right the moment those elbows touch the floor and the dog’s rump is in the air, we would therefore click the clicker or use our verbal marker “yes!” As with capturing a dog to lie down, we will then toss the treat at a distance so the dog must get up to get it and hopefully increase the likeliness for the dog to perform another play bow.

Capturing can be used to train puppies!
Capturing can be used to train puppies!

Advantages of Using Capturing

Capturing is a training method that offers several advantages.  As mentioned, one big advantage is that it is really easy to implement for the person doing the training. All you need to do is wait for the behavior to occur and then be ready to mark it and reward it. Since reinforced behaviors tend to strengthen and repeat, at some point you will notice that your dog will start performing the behavior more and more. From spontaneous, the behavior therefore starts becoming more  and more purposeful, which means that at some point you’ll have the chance to put it on cue, by simply naming the behavior right the moment your dog is about to perform the behavior and then marking and rewarding it.

Capturing is also advantageous for certain types of dogs dogs. Sometimes, you may stumble on shy dogs who have a bit of space issues and cringe if you loom over them or place your hands near their faces. Using capturing, you can keep a certain distance from the dog and the dog can learn to perform the behavior because the behavior has overtime accumulated a history of rewards. At the same time, courtesy of reward-based methods such as capturing, the dog’s confidence levels may rise and the dog may learn to trust more the caregiver as he or she becomes a source of rewards. A win-win! Last but not least, capturing works well for training certain unusual behaviors that can otherwise be difficult to get, such as a  getting a dog to shake his fur, tilt his head, stretch and even yawn!’

” The neat thing about this method is that it is particularly useful in teaching the dog to perform activities that are difficult or impossible to enforce.” ~Stanley Coren

clickerDisadvantages of Using Capturing

There are not many disadvantages in using capturing for training dogs, but one main one is (depending on which behavior is desired) that it may take some time for the behavior to occur spontaneously.  Some people refer to capturing as tedious as “watching paint dry,” but as mentioned, we can keep track as to when certain behaviors are more likely to unfold so to take advantage of these times and coordinate them with our training sessions. It may also sometimes take a bit of time for the dog to realize that “every time, I perform this exact behavior I get rewarded.” The dog may not be sure about exactly which behavior he’s being rewarded for so he may start offering certain behaviors as if asking “is this what you’re looking for? or it it this one?” If it is not, one should just ignore it, but if it is,  it’s imperative to make a great deal about it, by marking, praising, and perhaps, giving a jackpot of treats!

Another disadvantage of capturing is that if you’re looking for cutting-edge training, you will have to carry the clicker and treats around with you for some time, but the good news is that this is only in the initial stages of learning. Why? For the simple fact that you don’t want to miss out on the opportunity to mark and reward spontaneous behaviors unfolding when you least expect them such as out of the training context. So simply carry a treat bag on your belt and put that clicker on a lanyard around your neck, so that you’ll never miss out an opportunity to reward! Last but not least, a disadvantage of capturing is that it’s limited to spontaneous behaviors, and therefore, can’t be used to train dogs certain complex behaviors such as stacking rings, getting a tissue paper out of a box or placing toys into a basket.

“If the dog never offers the behavior you want, capturing could take forever!” ~ Pat Miller

The Bottom Line

As seen, capturing is a great training method that can be used to train dogs to sit, lie down and perform a variety of obedience exercises. It can even be used to train certain tricks and train dogs to go potty on cue. Capturing can also be used for behavior modification as in the case of capturing calm behaviors such as lying down rather than pacing around or capturing those pauses of silence in between barking in reactive dogs. While there are just a few disadvantages in using capturing to train dogs, as seen they can easily be overcome by using some effective strategies.

 

References:

  • The Power of Positive Training, by Pat Miller, Howell Book House; 2 edition (April 1, 2008)
  • Psychology Today, Dog Training Using Behavior Capture, by Stanley Coren, retrieved from the web on August 3rd, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • Clicker-training clickers come in various shapes and forms.Taken by Elf | Talk Sept 17 ’04 – Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons. Transfer was stated to be made by User:Syp. CC BY-SA 3.0

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Melena

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In simple words, melena is the medical term for blood in a dog’s stool. Dog owners who are observant of their dog’s daily outputs are at an advantage as they can readily identify signs of trouble such as melena. Presence of melena can be a sign of some type of bleeding taking place in the dog’s upper digestive tract requiring immediate vet attention. It’s therefore important that dog owners learn how to recognize what melena looks like so they can report their findings to their vet and the vet can identify the underlying cause.

dog poopWhat Dog Melena in Dogs Look Like?

Melena is something that may be missed by dog owners because it’s not readily recognized unless dog owners are accustomed to seeing what their dog’ normal stools look like. Melena in dogs looks like jet black, tarry stools. Some dog owners describe it as “my dog has a burgundy color stool” or “my dog has black coffee ground stools or “my dog’s stools  look like dirt, tar or potting soil.”

The appearance of dark, tarry stools can be significant because it may be indicative of a sufficient large quantity of blood being lost from the body. The blackening of dog stool basically derives from a large volume of blood being digested. The black color is  due to oxidation of hemoglobin being altered by digestive chemicals.

It is generally the duration of passage of blood that determines the color more than location. For instance, in humans, it’s estimated that blood must be retained in the intestinal tract for at least 8 hours before it’s capable of turning the stools black.

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dog pain goes away at the vetWhat Does it Mean When a Dog is Pooping Blood?

Dark stools aren’t necessary a sign of a particular problem. In some cases, a black tar-like stool in dogs may be simply due to something that the dog ingested (for instance, pepto-bismol,which is sometimes given under the guidance of a vet for a dog’s upset stomach, can cause a dog’s stool to become dark) and is therefore not a reflection of a condition a dog may have However, it’s important to have a dog checked out for dark, tar-like stools as it may be indicative of several disorders.

Generally, dark stools are a sign of bleeding in the upper digestive tract. The bleeding can therefore derive from the pharynx, esophagus, stomach or upper small intestine. Bleeding can be caused by presence of ulcers, cancers (leiomyoma and leiomyosarcom),  trauma, coagulation problems (disseminated intravascular coagulation, exposure to rat poison.) Administration of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (Aspirin, Rimadyl, Previcox, Metacam, Deramaxx) or steroids(dexamethasone) can also be a culprit as these drugs may lead to ulcers, especially when used together or without a wash-out period. Dark, tarry stools in dogs may also be indicative of liver disease.

” Lots of dogs have dark stools and no problems or GI blood loss at all. The color of the stool is not an issue until the stool is pitch-tar-coal-asphalt black. Then it may be melena (if it is not due to Bismuth or a lot of green bile giving it a near-black appearance). If in doubt, just place some fresh feces on absorbent white paper and see if a reddish color diffuses out from the feces, confirming that there is blood present.” ~Dr. Michael Willard

What Should Dog Owners Do?vet

Upon noticing black, tarry stools, an important step would be to check the dog’s gums to make sure they are pink and that the color comes back quickly when you press on them (capillary refill time). Black, tarry stools may be a sign of significant bleeding in the digestive tract, and as such, the dog can become anemic. Pale gums or blue or gray colored gums and a slow capillary refill time are indicative of serious trouble and an emergency vet should be seen at once. Also, dogs acting lethargic and weak along with dark stools should receive immediate veterinary care.

Providing a sample of the dog’s black stool can provide an important piece of information. The vet can test the sample for occult blood, if in doubt. It’s also important to provide as much information as possible to the vet such as age of dog, what the dog eats, and any concomitant signs observed. For instance, a dog with dark stools who is also regurgitating may be suggestive of problems localized to the dog’s esophagus or pharynx. A dog with black stools who is also vomiting blood can be suggestive of stomach or duodenal bleeding. A dog with tarry stools and a yellow color of the gums may be suggestive of liver disease.  A dog who recently had a nosebleed can also develop black stools, but the nosebleed may be related to a coagulation problem and worthy of investigation.

A word of caution is always warranted: just because a dog doesn’t show signs of melena, doesn’t necessarily mean the dog is free of gastrointestinal blood loss. Bleeding can take place over time in small amounts that aren’t enough to cause the classical tar-like appearance associated with melena.

” Melena is not always seen in animals with chronic gastrointestinal blood loss since loss can occur in relatively small quantities over time.”~ Dr.Cathy E. Langston

Disclaimer: this article is not to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is sick or displaying any worrisome signs, please consult with your vet.

 

References:

  • DVM360, GI blood loss: ulcer, erosions, and stuff that mimics them (Proceedings), retrieved from the web on July 27th, 2016
  • DVM360, Anemia of chronic kidney disease (Proceedings) retrieved from the web on July 27th, 2016
  • Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine,  Stephen J. Ettinger DVM DACVIM (Author), Edward C. Feldman DVM DACVIM Saunders; 7 edition (January 7, 2010)

 

Photo Credits

  • Flickr, Creative Commons, No pooping. Jeff Keyzer,  (CC BY-SA 2.0)
  • A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Wash-Out Period

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For several good reasons, veterinarians won’t recommend giving aspirin to dogs when dog owners call their clinics reporting their dogs are in pain. First of all, most vets aren’t comfortable recommending treatments without knowing exactly what it going on, and if the patient wasn’t seen for a while, it can be even illegal as there’s no longer a Veterinarian-Client-Patient Relationship. While dog owners may get irritated when their vets fail to recommend a home treatment such as aspirin, it’s in the dog’s best interest considering that should the aspirin fail to control the pain, the vet may not be able to give more potent anti-inflammatory drugs due to the need for “a wash-out” period.

vetPracticing Safe Medicine

What is a wash-out period? A wash-out period is a period of pause given when switching from one medication to another. It’s not necessary for all medications, but it’s common practice when switching from a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug to another or when switching between a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug and a steroid. What determines how long a wash-out period is?

A determining factor is the medication’s half life, which is the length of time it takes for the dog’s body to get rid of half of the dose. Generally, the longer the half life, the longer the wait between stopping a medication and starting another. However, vets must also consider the many dog-to-dog variations in the excretion rates of drugs and specific circumstances. The way a wash-out period is implemented therefore depends on various factors such as the type of medication involved, its half life, the length of time it’s given and other individual factors such as the dog’s age, health status and more.

” A wash-out period is a period of time recommended by the veterinarian during which the dog does not receive any NSAID. This allows one NSAID to be cleared from the body before starting another NSAID. Then the dog can be switched to another NSAID. NSAIDs should not be combined with the use of a corticosteroid, either.~Michele Sharkey et al.

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From NSAID to NSAID

Common non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs prescribed for dogs consist of Rimadyl, Metacam, Deramaxx and Previcox. Switching from a NSAID to another may be due to lack of efficacy, a need to change route of administration (eg. from injection to pill form) or adverse side effects. According to Phil Zeltzman, a board-certified veterinary surgeon, a wash-out period probably needs to be longer if the dog needs to be switched over due to side effects rather than lack of efficacy. While this practice may seem conservative, Dr. Zeltzman still recommends a wash-out period of seven days when switching from one NSAID to another one due to lack of efficacy, but exceptions may be made with consent from the owner should the dog be very uncomfortable. When there are slight overlaps, veterinarians may prescribe additional medications to reduce the chances for side effects (eg. stomach acid reducers)

“If I’m switching to a new NSAID because of a treatment failure, then I prefer to wait one week if the dog’s level of pain allows it. If the animal is in severe pain, I wait a minimum of three to four days… Other drugs such as tramadol, fentanyl (transdermal), hydrocodone, or codeine can be used if indicated to control the pain in the interim.”~Butch KuKanich.

aspirinFrom Aspirin to NSAID

Easily available over the counter, cheap and effective in killing pain,  aspirin is often given to dogs by well meaning dog owners without reporting to the vet. This practice though can lead to several problems. For instance, a dog may be on steroids for allergies and then the one day the dog is limping, so the dog owner decides to give aspirin for a day or two. Or in another instance, a dog has back pain and the dog owners gives aspirin, but since the pain is strong and doesn’t get better, he’s brought to the vet. Not knowing about the aspirin, the vet prescribes a NSAID. Both practices can cause significant problems that can even become deadly in some circumstances due to the overlap effect of the two medications.

Aspirin, just like Rimadyl or Previcox, is also a NSAID, so technically, there should be a washout period when switching from aspirin to another NSAID. Aspirin is more likely to cause negative effects on the dog’s gastro-intestinal tract compared to a NSAID obtained by veterinary prescription, explains Butch KuKanich, a diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology. He states; “If a client gave even one dose of aspirin, he or she should wait at least three days and, more conservatively, one week before starting a new NSAID. With long-term aspirin treatment, the client should wait at least one week before administering another NSAID. ” These are general guidelines obviously as each vet may decide a different approach. 

“Aspirin should not be administered because there are safer alternatives. If a course of treatment with aspirin has been started in a dog, the recommended washout period before starting an approved veterinary NSAID is up to 10 days.”~American Animal Hospital Association

From Steroid to NSAID

Common steroids prescribed in dogs include several medications that end with “one” such as prednisone, prednisolone, methylprednisolone, dexamethasone, cortisone, betamethasone, hydrocortisone and fluticasone. Steroids are also non-inflammatory drugs, but they belong to a different class and are considered more powerful compared to the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, but some consider them more likely to cause side effects. The guidelines for washout period from a steroid to a NSAID may be similar as switching from NSAID to NSAID, but  steroids may need longer wash-out times as some types may be long-acting. If a dog is being switched from a steroid to a NSAID due to side effects, the wash-out period may also be longer.

Measures to Avoid Problemstable

So why is a wash-out period needed? The problem is the effect that some drugs have when their effects overlap. NSAIDs such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, Metacam, Previcox and aspirin, work by blocking the production of prostglandins, special compounds known for causing inflammation. The enzymes that produce prostaglandins are known as cyclooxygenase (COX) and there are two types: COX-1 and COX-2.  For this reason, several NSAIDS are known as “COX inhibitors.” Steroids such as prednisone also block the production of prostglandins.

Giving two medications that block prostglandins together may sound may sound like a good thing, but it is not for the simple fact that prostglandins are also responsible for protecting the dog’s gastro-intestinal tract, his liver and his kidneys. When a NSAID is given with another NSAID (or with a steroid) or when a wash-out period is not implemented, blood supply to these vital organs is potentially affected and can lead to serious damage such as stomach ulcers, perforation and serious kidney and liver damage.

“When you combine any two NSAIDs – their negative effects on Cox-1 can be anywhere up to TEN TIMES worse than if you just doubled the dose of one of the drugs by itself. While each combination is different, the take home point is that there can be interaction which is worse when combined.” ~Christopher A. Lee DVM

 The Bottom Line

What does all of this mean to dog owners? It means that it’s very importance to practice caution and avoid giving  medications to dogs without a vet’s consent. Giving aspirin without a vet’s consent may mean delaying your dog’s treatment as you will have to wait before more effective drugs your veterinarian carries can be given. If aspirin is ever given without asking a vet first, it’s in the dog’s best interest letting the vet know so that appropriate steps can be taken should the dog need to be put on another NSAID or a steroid drug.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary or pharmacological advice. If your vet is in pain, consult with your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

 

References:

  • Guidelines for safe and effective use of NSAIDs in dogs. Lascelles BD1, McFarland JM, Swann H.Vet Ther. 2005 Fall;6(3):237-51.
  • DVM360, My approach to an NSAID washout period in dogs, retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016
  • Critical Care Vet, Steroids & NSAIDS: A Potentially Lethal Combination, retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016
  •  U. S. Food and Drug Administration, What Veterinarians Should Tell Clients About Pain Control and Their Pets, Michele Sharkey, DVM, Margarita Brown, DVM , Linda Wilmot, DVM.
  • Veterinary Anesthesia and Analgesia, edited by Kurt A. Grimm, Leigh A. Lamont, William J. Tranquilli, Stephen A. Greene, Sheilah A. Robertson. Wiley-Blackwell; 5 edition (May 11, 2015)
  • Veterinary Information Network, Inc.Dog aspirin takes hits from critics, retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016
  • American Animal Hospital Association, Nine Ways to Minimize the Risks of Nonsteroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs) retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Wash-out Time Table by Caprofen,US Pharmaceutical Convention 2004

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Impulse Control

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Among the many behavior traits of dogs, impulse control is likely something most dog owners would like to see more in their dogs, because let’s face it: left to their own devices, dogs and animals in general don’t really have much tendency (or interest) in controlling their urges. Carpe diem, “seize the day” seems to be a good motto for dogs, and who can blame them? If a sandwich is sitting on the table and nobody is around to claim it, why not eat it? If a squirrel end in the yard, why not chase it?  This is where training comes into place. After all, if we think about it, dog training aims for a good part in helping dogs learn how to cope with the temptation for an immediate reward in exchange delayed gratification.

Impulse Control Definition

Impulse control, as the name implies, involves being capable of resisting the impulse to perform an action. As much as the power to control impulses may seem like what differentiates humans from animals, consider that among us humans, impulse control can also be difficult to exert in certain occasions. Just think about the term “impulse buyers” referring to people who cannot control their impulse to buy things despite not needing them or not having the financial means to pay them off. There several other forms of impulse control problems affecting humans such as binge eating; the urge to overeat in certain situations, or pathological gambling; the urge to gamble despite loss of money, job and family relationships. And of course, there are several other addictions.

Fortunately, dogs aren’t much prone to some of the impulse control disorders humans may suffer from such as drinking or gambling; instead, most of their impulse control “problems” stem from natural behaviors that are self-reinforcing or that bring some sort of external reward. Jumping on people, chasing after a squirrel, pulling on the leash, eating food when it drops, are some behaviors dog owners often complain about. Dealing with these “problems” takes teaching dogs coping mechanisms and that patience ultimately pays off.

A Matter of Agegerman shepherd puppy dog food

Just like children, dogs are more adept into learning better impulse control as they mature. Puppies and young dog may have a hard time learning to control their impulses, but as they mature, this ability becomes more ingrained. This is also a reason why dogs  such as service dogs and police dogs are sent to “serious training” after reaching maturity. Sure, training can (and should) start as early as possible since puppies require early socialization and training in basic manners, but generally advanced training starts when the dogs are mentally and physically ready for the demands of such advanced training.

According to Steven Lindsay, impulse control in young pups is not  really much feasible from a developmental standpoint as they yet haven’t developed  the neuro-biological capacity to exert impulse control in a ” refined and reliable way.” He adds that the regulation of impulses likely takes place in the dog’s pre-frontal cortex and that the area is not developed until later in the dog’s first year when cognitive abilities start emerging.

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“A puppy under one year of age is not mentally or emotionally up to the challenge of shouldering the full responsibilities of a service dog and pushing them into that position is very highly likely to burn them out so that they don’t want to be a service dog when they get older.” ~Service Dog Central

impulse control dogSix Exercises to Teach Impulse Control in Dogs

Most of these exercises entail teaching the dog that his impulsive behavior will no longer yield them a reward. If you think about it, most undesirable dog behaviors persist because the dog is being rewarded for his actions in some way. Your dog pulls on walks? Pulling get him faster and closer to what he wants to to reach. Your dog acts impatient when you prepare his meal? His impatient behavior is rewarded by being fed the meal. Tackling these issues therefore requires teaching the dog that these rewards are now contingent upon calm behaviors, and no longer the other way around.

Many of these exercises incorporate a “stay” to some extent. The stay cue is a very helpful for teaching impulse control, so if your dog knows this cue already, he’s at an advantage. He will just need to have it gradually “proofed” to certain distracting situations.

Before starting these exercises it’s important to read the “A Word of Caution” section so to be prepared on what to expect. If in any doubt, please consult with a dog trainer or behavior consultant invested in using positive training methods.

 

1) Calm Walks Towards the Doorrott

What happen in your home when it’s time to go on a walk? Does your dog go bonkers and starts jumping and pulling when you put the leash on and walk towards the door? Time for a change! So put the leash on as usual, but this time, go sit on the couch the moment he starts acting up. Your dog will be surprised by this change of routine, but he’ll soon catch up once he’ll put his brain to work and starts understanding the new dynamics. At first, he may get impatient, he might try to pull you towards the door or start jumping or chewing on the leash. Do nothing in this case, just wait it out. At some point your dog will calm down and perhaps sit or lie down. When he does this, say “yes” and get up and walk towards the door. If he starts acting hyper again, walk back to the couch and sit down once again. Wait for your dog to sit once again or lie down and then say “yes!” and get up again. Rinse and repeat several times until you’re able to walk calmly towards the door. After several days of doing this exercise, you can try the next exercise.

“By reinforcing for certain body postures associated with relaxation, the body can be conditioned to achieve those states more frequently. This is a matter of maximizing the use of classical conditioning during operant training…Eventually relaxed muscles, lowered heart rate and respiratory rate etc. become classically conditioned to the “sit” cue and the sit position. “~The Dog Trainer’s Resource

door2) Automatic Sits at the Door 

What happens in your home when you put on the leash and you open the door? Does your dog bolt out of the door risking that your elbow coming out of its socket? Well, starting today, it’s time for a change. Here’s how. After your dog gets good at sitting down when you put the leash on and calmly walking towards the door, it’s time to ask for automatic sits by the door. Ask your dog to sit and open the door only if he stays seated. If he gets up from the sit, close the door. When he sits again start opening the door, but be ready to close if he gives any signs of getting up. This exercises will entail opening and closing the door several times at first, but eventually your dog will learn that. when he sits, the door opens, when he gets up, the door starts closing.

When he stays nicely put despite the door being open, say “yes!” and go on your walk. If you want to further raise the bar, you can train your dog to sit the moment you place your hand on the door knob. After some time, your dog should learn to sit automatically when he’s in front of the door. Remember: always practice this on leash!

“Truly conditioned default, or automatic, behaviors can override instinctive behaviors. A default behavior is one that the dog can fall back on when he is upset, frustrated, excited, or just plain wants something he’s not getting.” ~Leslie McDevitt

3) Calmer Outdoor Walks sit

What happens when you go on a walk? Is your dog pulling you left and right to go meet other dogs, people or to go sniff a bush or go mark a lamppost? Well, in these cases your dog is seeking instant gratification, and keeps doing this because of the reward of getting to greet people, meeting other dogs,  sniffing the bush and peeing on the lamppost. Starting today though, you will teach him that only calm behavior grants him access to these things.

So from today, switch the rules around. A slack leash becomes your accelerator and a tight leash becomes your break. Make it very clear,  praise your dog when the leash is slack, say “yes!,” give a treat if you wish, and resume walking.

Remember to slow down walking when your dog starts walking ahead and come to a stop when he’s actively pulling. Call him by your side so the leash is slack again, say “yes” and resume walking. After a while , your dog will understand the new rules of the game.

Don’t forget to reward him every now and then when the leash is slack by sending him to sniff the bush or mark the lamppost, but you might want to stop letting him meet and greet people and other dogs to avoid future problems. Not all people or dogs may be eager to meet your dog!

 

food4) Waiting For Food

What happens in your home when it’s your dog’s meal time? Are you surrounded by your pacing dog whining and circling around you like a shark? For sake of comparison, that’s like a person at a restaurant complaining that food service is too slow. “Hurry up mom! Get that food ready, now!” If you just put the food bowl down when your dog is acting this way, congratulations, you have just rewarded his behavior, so next time, expect this behavior to pop up again, and even get worse.

Instead, starting today, try to teach your dog how to control himself more. You might get a bit of complaining  especially at the beginning, but if you persevere, you will start seeing results. Here’s what to do. While your dog is out in the yard or somebody is walking him, prepare his food in advance. Then, call your dog. Ask him to sit and only once he’s sitting, lower the food bowl. If he gets up from the sit before you put the bowl down, immediately raise the food bowl. When he sits again, start lowering it. You might find yourself lowering and raising the food bowl repeatedly, but that’s OK, it won’t take long for your dog to learn that “when my bottom is on the floor, the food bowl gets closer, and when I get up it gets out of reach.” Finally, when your dog sits and stays seated until the food bowl is down, praise him and let him enjoy his meal. Good boy!

5)  Leaving Dropped Itemsleave it

What happens in your home when you drop something on the floor? Does your dog rush over to eat it likes there’s no tomorrow? What if you move away from the table a moment? Does he steal your sandwich? In such a case, you may want to teach your dog to control his urge to eat anything in sight, but most importantly, you may want to safeguard your dog from ingesting something potentially harmful one day. You may therefore want to teach your dog that “leaving it” and delaying instant gratification is worthy big time.

To teach this valuable lesson, prepare yourself with some high-value treats that are higher in value than the items you are planning to practice “leave it” with. So you can start by holding the lower value food in your hand. When he tries to get it, say “leave it” and close your hand. When he gives up trying, say yes! and reward him with something that’s higher value in your other hand. Or say you drop something on the floor, like a piece of bread, then, the moment your dog walks towards it, you would say “leave it” as you step on it with your foot. Your dog may go towards your foot and try sniffing it or try grabbing it from under your foot. Wait it out. When your dog gives up, say “yes!” and give him the high-value treat. Repeat this several times, gradually introducing different (and safe) items to practice with until your dog is able to ‘leave it” without you covering the item with your foot. Practice adding distance too, so that you can say “leave it” when you are across the room and your dog will come to you happily in anticipation of his well-earned reward.

6) Structured Gamesjazz up

What happens in your home when you grab a toy and are ready to play with your dog? Does your dog go bonkers, barking and spinning in circles? Time for a change! If your dog loves to fetch, start asking him to sit before you toss the ball. Then let him fetch it and then rinse and repeat. If your dog at any times starts barking or spinning don’t toss it though as you only want to reward calm behaviors. If your dog was used to you tossing the ball when he was acting impatient, expect his behavior to escalate (extinction burst)  a bit before he gets the idea that only calm behaviors get you tossing the ball. Ready for another challenge? Ask your dog to sit and stay even once the ball touches the ground. This might take a while to master, but it’s another good exercise to train for those dogs who need more impulse control or if you want to impress your family and friends.

Another great games to teach is Ian Dunbar’s Jazz up and Settle Down game. In this game, you will be basically purposely getting your dog revved up with a toy as you act silly, but then in the midst of all, you will be asking your dog to sit. When he sits, you will be rewarding your dog for the calm behavior by resuming the game. This game provides you with a handy “off switch” for those times your dog is acting hyper.

A Word of Caution

If your dog has a history of lacking impulse control, expect to encounter a few bumps on your journey to teaching him calmer behaviors. What happens when you always brought candy to your child and then one day out of the blue, you realize you don’t have change in your pocket? Your child will likely have big temper tantrum and you would likely have to leave the store to save yourself from a very embarrassing situation! The same can happen to your dog. It might not be a tantrum, but you may notice that your dog starts scratching himself, sneezing, yawning, barking or pawing on you. These are often displacement behaviors meant to manifest his confusion, stress or frustration. If you notice any of these, it can be sign that your dog is not ready yet for this level of impulse control. What to do in these cases?

If you know your dog is prone to getting frustrated, you can try making the exercise easier by splitting it in smaller steps or giving frequent rewards under the form of treats (use kibble if high-value treats make your dog impatient) at first when your dog performs the calm behavior and then gradually weaning them off, until your dog can sit and wait for the final reward (eg, getting out the door, going to sniff a bush or eating his meal). Here’s another important tip:  to set your dog for success, ensure his needs for exercise and mental stimulation are met before doing these impulse control exercises. If you are struggling getting your dog to calm down or if your dog appears aggressive at any time during these exercises, please consult with a dog trainer/ behavior professional invested in positive reinforcement.

Did you know? Impulse control can be improved courtesy of training and signs of improvement are marked by certain changes occurring in the brain, according to a new Queen’s University study.

References:
  • Phys.org, Researchers locate impulse control center in brain, retrieved from the web on July 13th, 2016
  • Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 3: Procedures and Protocols Volume Three Edition
    by Steven R Lindsay, Wiley-Blackwell; Volume Three edition (June 15, 2005)
  • Cross-sectional study of object permanence in domestic puppies (Canis familiaris).
    Gagnon, Sylvain; Doré, François Y.Journal of Comparative Psychology, Vol 108(3), Sep 1994, 220-232
  • The Dog Trainer’s Resource: The APDT Chronicle of the Dog Collection (Volume 1) Paperback – August 30, 2006 by Mychelle E. Blake, Dogwise Publishing (August 30, 2006)
  • Control Unleashed: Creating a Focused and Confident Dog Paperback– Black & White, 2007, by Leslie McDevitt, Clean Run Productions/CRP (2007)

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Velcro Dog

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In the world of dogs, there are often many colorful terms used to depict certain traits and behaviors, and one of them is “Velcro dog.” What exactly is a Velcro dog? For those who are not familiar with Velcro, it’s simply a hook and loop fastener that’s often used to attach two different parts. It’s basically, a lineal fabric strip with tiny hooks that attaches to another fabric strip with smaller loops. Interestingly, the inventor of Velcro, Swiss electrical engineer George de Mestral, developed Velcro in 1941 inspired by several burrs that attached to his trousers and the fur of this dog after a walk in the woods. So what exactly are Velcro dogs? As the name implies, it has something to do with “attachment.”

velcro dogVelcro Dogs Defined

So what exactly is a Velcro dog? A Velcro dog is simply a dog who has developed a strong attachment to his owner, sometimes even to the point of being dysfunctional. Some people like to call these dogs “Velcro dogs” while some others prefer to refer to them as “shadow dogs” because they follow like a shadow. What most Velcro dogs have in common is that they are constantly “underfoot” and will follow their owners or caregivers room-to-room. The typical Velcro dog will often also be hyper vigilant, paying close attention to any cues (like putting down the remote or placing an arm on the arm rest) suggesting that their owners are about to get up and move. Dog owners may sometimes find such behaviors unnerving, especially when their Velcro dogs are small and they constantly risk tripping over them.

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Let’s face it though: dogs are social animals, and as such, they seek companionship. It’s therefore normal for most dogs (except those few independent breeds) to strongly crave being with their owners and missing them, even when they step away for a brief periods of time. Problems start though when following the owner becomes an obsession and affected dogs are unable to cope with their owner’s absence. Ideally, dogs should be somewhere in between: somewhat interested in their owner’s whereabouts, but capable of relaxing and self-soothing when the owner must step away.

“The greatest fear dogs know is the fear that you will not come back when you go out the door without them.”~Stanley Coren

Types of Velcro Dogsdog anxiety

Some types of dogs are more likely to become “Velcro dogs” than others, but as with other things “dog,” you can really never make a black and white statement as there are often exceptions to the rules. Generally speaking though there are some dogs more prone to this problem than others. Following are some examples:

Dogs of Certain Breeds

Some working dog breeds such as collies and shepherd-like dogs that were selectively bred to work alongside their handlers and that relied heavily on their body language and guidance, may have a hard time dealing with separation. Other dogs with a reputation of being Velcro dogs are breeds bred to hunt with other dogs all day such as hounds and dogs bred to be lap dogs, basically adorable pooches who once spent most of their time as feet and and lap warmers for aristocratic ladies.

Dogs Fearful of Being Alone

Some extra- clingy dogs may be suffering from separation anxiety or they may be manifesting signs of its pre-development stage. Dogs prone to clingy behaviors often include recently rescued dogs who were surrendered from the shelter. It may remain unknown whether these dogs were surrendered in the first place because of a history of suffering from separation anxiety or whether they developed clingy behaviors as a result of going through many changes and disruptions in their routines. Or perhaps it may be both. According to Nicholas Dodman, most dogs affected by separation anxiety seem to be mixed breeds with a history of having been re-homed several times and “a less-than-ideal upbringing.”

dog  Thumb Twiddling Dogs

Then, you have dogs who act clingy because they simply have nothing better to do. These dogs therefore patiently await their owners while they’re at work. Then, when their owners come home, they greet them enthusiastically and morph into the
“Velcro dog status” in hopes of getting their daily dose of exercise and mental activity. These dogs have basically turned following their owners a part-time job and who can’t blame them? The following behavior is often rewarded too when dog owners do interesting activities such as opening the fridge, eating something and leaving several tasty crumbs behind.

A Medical Problem

Sometimes clingy behaviors especially those that start suddenly in dogs who didn’t have this problem, should raise a red flag. In some dogs, this can sometimes be a sign of medical problem. For instance, older dogs may start acting clingy because of deteriorating senses such as loss of  hearing or vision loss. These dogs become insecure and by sitting next to their owners they learn to rely on their owner’s reactions to become more aware of happenings around them. Sometimes clingy behaviors may also be an early sign of the onset of canine cognitive dysfunction (doggy Alzheimer’s). It’s not a bad idea to mention behavior changes to the vet, especially if dogs become suddenly clingy and their Velcro dogs behaviors are accompanied by other symptoms.

10 Tips on Helping Dogs That are Too Clingy

dog tricks

For those folks who own Velcro dogs, there is good news: Velcro dogs can be helped to reduce their “over-attachment.” However, severe cases or dogs suffering from separation anxiety may require professional help and sometimes, medications from a vet or veterinary behaviorist. Following are some tips for dealing with a Velcro dog that may help in some mild cases.

  1. Train your dog a sit stay and down stay and lavishly praise and reward. These obedience exercises aren’t just for training, but can also help for behavior modification as they’re teaching the dog that it can be rewarding to stay at a distance from the owner. It’s important to make the game extra rewarding and fun. Start training your dog with you close-by and then gradually build on distance up until the point your are able to have your dog hold the stay when you are briefly out of sight. Go very gradually though to help your dog succeed as going too fast in the process can be too overwhelming. Also make sure you add closer distances every now and then in the midst of the farther ones so your dog doesn’t come to expect that the exercise will become harder and harder.
  2. Train a “go to your mat” cue through a training method known as shaping. Place a mat at a distance from you and  click and reward each time your dog walks towards it, then when your dog sniffs it and then when he walks on it. Finally, wait for your dog to lie down on it. When he does, give a jackpot of treats, or even better a stuffed Kong! After your dog visits the mat and lies down on it more and more, put it on cue, by saying “go to your mat” right when your dog gets on it to lie down. Then reward him with a long-lasting Kong to keep busy while you briefly step away.
  3. Install a baby gate. This makes for a good temporary measure, but it does not address the underlying emotions nor does it help to boost the dog’s confidence. To help your dog cope better as you go about running errands around the house, toss him a stuffed Kong whilst behind a baby gate to keep him occupied.
  4. Prepare your dog’s meal and then place the food bowl on top of the counter so that it builds a bit of anticipation. When your dog appears eager to eat, lower the food bowl and let him eat it while you are a short distance away. If your dog loves toys, place a new toy on the counter and let him have it when you must leave the room. Good things happen only when you are briefly away. Remember to go very gradually. If your dog gives signs of stress and being overwhelmed, you are going too fast in building distance.
  5. Desensitize your dog to cues that suggests that you are about to get up. If your dog is the type who gets up to follow you upon seeing you put your arm on the arm rest or your chair makes a noise, you might want to to try to desensitize him to these cues. If for example, your dog gets ready to get up the moment you put the remote down, put the remote down over and over without getting up. Eventually at some point, your dog’s senses will tire and he’ll give up responding to this meaningless activity. Reward him by tossing a treat when he settles down (hopefully on his mat) and stops responding to the action. Then, progress and get up repeatedly from the couch. Up and sit, up and sit, up and sit. Again, reward when he stops responding. Progress to getting up, taking a few steps and then sitting down again, do this several times. If your dog follows you, just walk in circles, destination no where and then sit on the couch. Again, reward your dog until he settles and stops responding. Do this until you can get up and go into another room and your dog stay put on his mat.
  6. Teach your dog to sleep at a distance from you. Provide him with a mat that you keep initially at a small distance from you. Many clingy dogs like to sleep by our feet or right next to us on the couch or bed so we awaken them when we are about to get up. These dogs are afraid to fall asleep as they cannot keep track on where we are, so teaching them to sleep on a mat with a chew toy can help instill some independence.
  7. Clingy dogs need a confidence boost.  Always use positive training methods and make it fun and rewarding. Train them confidence boosting exercises such as agility, free-shaping, basic obedience and clicker training.
  8. Train tricks and games that use distance. Fetch, hide-n-seek, “go get the beer from the fridge” or “go go get the mail” can be fun and rewarding activities for a Velcro dog.
  9. Make sure your dog gets his daily dose of exercise and mental stimulation. A tired dog is less likely to want to follow you around the house all day.
  10. Keep tabs on your progress. You know you did a good job that day your dog sees you get up and he barely lifts his head and then goes back to snoozing in no time! “My Owner is getting up? Whatever, back to snooze land!”

 

References:

  • Veterinary Practice News: Separation Anxiety, Try 4-step Program, retrieved from the web on July 6th, 2016.
  • Wikipedia, Velcro, retrieved from the web on July 6th, 2016.

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Intrinsic Reinforcer

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The term “reinforcement” in behavior terms is used to depict the instance where the likelihood of a behavior increases. A reinforcer is therefore anything which, added after a behavior, makes the behavior put roots and stay alive, preventing it from extinction. In dog training, we want to see desired behaviors put roots and establish and that’s why we use positive reinforcement. That cookie given the moment the dog sits, makes the dog more willing to sit in future instances. However, we must consider that reinforcement is also at play when dogs repeat certain behaviors that are undesirable to us. In these cases, it’s helpful to investigate and determine what reinforcer (extrinsic, intrinsic) is maintaining the behavior so we can prevent access to the reinforcer if feasible and provide alternate, more acceptable outlets for those behaviors. Today we will be taking a closer look at intrinsic reinforcers.

“Behavior which is reinforced tends to be repeated (i.e. strengthened); behavior which is not reinforced tends to die out-or be extinguished.”

— B.F. Skinner

dog tricksDefining Intrinsic Reinforcers

If we look at the history of the word “intrinsic,” we will find that it derives from the ancient Medieval Latin word “intrinsecus “which means inwardly, on the inside. ” The Latin word “intra” indeed means”within.”  The word reinforcer comes from the 1650’s and means “to make stronger.” So if you put the two words together and apply it to dog behavior, you will get something along the lines of “something from within that makes the behavior stronger.”

Intrinsic reinforcement is the opposite of extrinsic reinforcement, which entails reinforcement produced indirectly by the behavior itself and therefore comes from an external source. In dog training or behavior modification, the addition of extrinsic reinforcement is artificially arranged in training settings for the purpose of deliberately increasing desired behaviors (contrived reinforcers). For example, back to the dog sitting for a cookie example, sitting is normally not intrinsically reinforcing for the dog (unless the dog is tired on his legs) but by adding an external reinforcer (the cookie) when the dog sits, the behavior becomes more likely to occur in the future. So next, let’s take a look at a few examples of intrinsic reinforcers.

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“Not all reinforcers controlling instrumental behavior are present as external rewards; in fact, many voluntary behaviors are controlled by intrinsic sources of reinforcement associated with the act itself. ” ~Steven Lindsay

Examples of Intrinsic Reinforcersdog intrinsic behavior

As the words above imply, intrinsic reinforcers come from within, but how can dogs gain reinforcement from within? We are so used to thinking of ourselves as the ultimate sources of reinforcement, our mind can go blank for a moment. Let’s think of behaviors dogs do that feel good on their own…Sniffing, chewing, chasing prey, playing, urine marking, barking, digging, retrieving objects and licking may be examples of intrinsically rewarding behaviors. However, one must remember that what’s reinforcing is in the eye of beholder, thus, what’s perceived as reinforcing to one dog may not necessarily be to another. There are several categories of intrinsic reinforcers, here are a few.

 

Genetically-Based Intrinsic Reinforcers: We will find that for certain types or breeds of dogs, certain behaviors they were bred for, are self-rewarding. Generally, the scent hounds gain internal reinforcement from going on a sniffing adventure, the sight hounds feel good when they go on a quick chase and the retrievers gain their inner reward when they get to retrieve a ball over and over without any need for external reinforcement.

Biologically-Based Intrinsic Reinforcers: the intrinsic reinforcer may feel good because it fulfills a biological need. If for example, a dog feels hot, going under a tree will cause the dog to feel better. The shade of the tree may therefore be an intrinsic reinforcer in this case, as the behavior of seeking shade in that place will likely repeat in the future. Most dogs share the same biologically driven, self-reinforcing behaviors because they are important for survival purposes.

Chemically- based Intrinsic Reinforcers: Sometimes a dog’s behavior is reinforced because of the presence of certain chemicals in the bloodstream. How it this possible? Emotions such as fear or anger can cause the release of chemicals in the dog’s brain and this can become physiologically addictive. James O’Heare, in the book “The Canine Aggression Workbook”explains that this could be an explanation as to why certain behaviors tend to repeat over and over.

Putting  Intrinsic Reinforcers to Good Use

The good thing about intrinsic reinforcement is that behaviors are maintained without the need of any form of external reinforcement. Your dog loves to sniff? On walks, after rehearsing some heeling exercises, you can reward your dog by loosening your leash and telling him to “go sniff!”Your dog loves to run at the dog park? Call him to you and then reward him by letting him go back to run around with his friends. Your dog has great fetching genes? Reward him for bringing a toy to you by tossing it again and again.

You can also take advantage of your dog’s biological needs and use them to you advantage. Simply know what your dog needs the most in a given moment and call your dog and provide him access to that intrinsic reinforcer. So is your dog in the yard playing and now he looks as if he’s feeling hot? Maybe he looks forward to being cool and perhaps he’s even a bit thirsty. Why not take advantage of these internal states to call your dog inside your cool home and reward him with fresh water? Your recall will be associated with these wonderful happenings! Was your energetic dog inside all day and you know he’s now dying to spend time playing and romping in the yard to burn up that pent-up energy? Have a helper stay in a room with the door closed while you go out in the yard leaving the backyard door open and call your dog. Let your helper open the door and watch him enthusiastically rush outside!

barkingAdding External Reinforcement

What happens though when an intrinsically-driven behavior is given external reinforcement? Let’s say a dog likes to bark a lot. It’s as if the dog just likes listening to his voice. A trainer starts giving a treat for every bark, and at some point, the trainer even puts the behavior on cue, by saying “speak” when the dog barks and rewards accordingly. At this point, what do you think will happen? Many people will think: “It would turn the dog into the biggest barking machine on earth since he’s reinforced for barking” while others may think “it will reduce the barking behavior because now you have control over it.” Who’s right? The best way to determine the effectiveness of this method is to simply look at what happens next: does the barking reduce or increase? There’s the best answer, but let’s take a closer look at the dynamics.

A Reduction in Barking 

With the above method of putting barking on cue, there are chances that at some point instead of barking because the dog likes to, he’ll start barking for treats. The barking behavior therefore may start becoming more and more dependent on the extrinsic reinforcer rather than the intrinsic one. For sake of an example, imagine making necklaces and giving them away as gifts. Then, one day out of the blue, you find a company that will actually pay for them. Most likely at this point you will want to work for money and you may never go back to giving necklaces as gifts. Once the behavior is strongly on cue and has attained stimulus control, there may therefore be a reduction in interest in performing an intrinsically reinforcing behavior.

An Increase in Barking

While putting an intrinsically reinforcing behavior on cue such as barking may make it less frequent, there are some risks though to keep in mind. Sure, we can easily put non-intrinsically reinforcing behaviors on stimulus control, but with intrinsically reinforcing behaviors things can get more challenging as we’re competing with its self-reinforcing nature. For example, the dog may learn to bark only when the owner asks him to, but left to his own devices, the dog may revert to barking for its intrinsic value when he’s home alone. And then, back to being in the presence of the owner, you may stumble on dogs who love to offer behaviors, so they will bark just in hopes of getting a reward. Oh, and let’s not forget about dogs who are smart enough to figure out that they must bark and wait the owner to give a “quiet” cue in order to get a treat! Owners should never reward their dog’s barking unless asked to, but the problem is that some dogs bark for attention, so with these dogs even the simple fact of looking at them or talking to them is sufficient to keep the barking behavior alive. So it’s also important to ask “why is the dog is barking in the first place?” Barking is often a dog’s way to release frustration, anxiety or stress so these states of mind will also need addressed.

A less convoluted, and most importantly, less risky option may be to train the dog to perform an alternate behavior instead. An option may be to thank the dog for alerting if he’s barking at outside stimuli, and then re-directing the dog to another more acceptable activity, such as coming to the owner or lying down on a mat for some treats or a longer lasting reward such as a stuffed Kong.

Here are just a few tips for dealing with intrinsically reinforced behaviors:

  • Use management strategies to prevent the dog from rehearsing the problem behavior
  •  Remember to provide positive outlets for the behavior (eg. provide acceptable digging areas, let your dog “hunt” for kibble in the home)
  • Train an incompatible behavior (tell your dog what you want him to do instead)
  • Interrupt behaviors with a trained cue
  • Put the behavior on cue (may not always work, but implemented correctly and with certain types of behaviors it may help somewhat)
  • Consider that ignoring the unwanted behavior may work poorly as intrinsically reinforcing behaviors are pretty much immune to extinction.
  • Keep in mind that these behaviors will never totally disappear as most are within the dog’s nature.
  • Avoid using harsh, aversion-based methods as these will only cause frustration, anxiety and stress.

 

References:

  • Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 2: Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems 1st Edition, by Steven R. Lindsay,  Iowa State University Press; 1st edition (2001)
  • Dog Aggression Workbook Paperback – December 1, 2007 by James O’Heare, Dogpsych Publishing; 0003- edition (December 1, 2007)

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Dog Word of The Day: Generalization

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We often hear conflicting information about the word “generalization” when it applies to dogs. We are often told that “dogs don’t generalize well”, but then, there are instances when generalization takes place quite quickly as many owners of fearful dogs can attest. Today, we’ll therefore be taking a closer look into dog generalization, the meaning of the word, how it happens and the process it entails. We will also be taking a peak at some examples of generalization taking place in dog training and dog behavior as it can happen in specific contexts.

generalizing behaviorWhat is Generalization? 

Generalization is often defined as “taking something specific and applying it more broadly.”We often use generalization in our linguistic world to cover make broad statements. For example, if we say “customers are always right” we are making a broad statement clumps customers together as having something in common (being always right.) To go more in depth on the subject, we can see generalization occur in the history of words (etymology).  According Richard Nordquist, a Grammar & Composition Expert, the English word dog, comes from the earlier word dogge, which was originally used to depict a powerful breed of dog that originated in England. Today, the word dog has evolved though and generalized as an umbrella term used to include all of our domesticated canine companions.

To give a more technical explanation we can say that generalization occurs when a new stimulus/setting/situation that has similar characteristics to a previous stimulus/setting/situation comes to trigger the same response. So if Mary listens to the radio one day and falls in love with a specific heavy metal song made by a specific band, she may then later on find out that she likes other heavy metal bands so starts listening to more and more heavy metal songs and even starts attending concerts. In this case, her passion has generalized from one song, to other songs made by different bands that share similar features with the original band/song she first fell in love with.

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Stimulus generalization occurs when a response is “provoked not only by the object or event that originally provoked it, but also by objects or events that are similar to the original stimulus.” Karen Overall

Generalization in Dog Training: Settingssit

When applied to dog training, generalization can be defined as the process where, the settings in which a dog initially responds to, start to increase so that the dog starts responding to more and more different settings. We often talk about generalization when a dog who was initially trained to sit in a quiet room, starts then sitting in rooms with more distractions, then starts sitting in the yard, and then on walks, at the park etc. Since we have (hopefully!) helped the dog progress by training in more and more distracting environments through gradual exposure, and have rewarded each time the dog responded, the dog succeeds despite the increase in challenge.

We can therefore pat ourselves on the back and claim that the behavior of sitting has successfully generalized to other settings other than the one in which the dog was originally trained. We have therefore taken something that was initially trained in a specific setting  (sit in a quiet room) and expanded it to encompass various settings (sit in the yard, sit in the park, sit on walks). When people say “dog’s don’t generalize well” they often refer to the fact that with potty training, it’s often hard to train a puppy to use a pee pad at home and then go potty outdoors on a totally different surface or the fact that it’s hard to train a dog to sit in a quiet room and then ask the dog to sit on walks.  However, this is not the dog’s fault! This tends to occur when people fail to use high-value treats (the more distracting the environment, the higher value the treats) and don’t take time to make sure the sitting behavior in quiet settings is fluent enough before moving to training in more and more distracting areas. Slow and steady wins the race!

Did you know? Generalization, strictly speaking is not really something somebody does (the dog doesn’t really “generalize”) but it rather refers to a process. So it would be more correct to say “the dog’s behavior of sitting in the park is sign that generalization has occurred.”

spinningGeneralization in Dog Training: Prompts

Another example of generalization is seen when we are in the process of increasing criteria and we start training our dog so that he learns to respond to more  and more subtle forms of our prompts that share similar features with the original version. For example, if we have trained a dog to spin in a circle by bending down and moving our arm and pointed finger in an imaginary circle that the dog must follow, at some point we might want to make the signal less significant. So we work on making the hand gesture gradually less and less evident by bending down less, then making the circle less and less wide, up until we reach a point where the dog responds just to a mere small imaginary circle drawn with a finger.

Since we have gradually made the hand gesture less and less significant and we have rewarded the dog for responding to these more subtle gestures, we have helped the dog succeed. We can therefore pat ourselves on the back and claim that the behavior of responding to our initial prompt has successfully generalized to other prompts. We have therefore taken our initial pronounced prompt (bending down and moving our arm and pointed finger in an imaginary circle) gradually morphed it so that dog responds to incrementally more and more subtle prompts (circle carried out while bending less, less wide circle.) and at the end, we may have finally decided to make the small imaginary circle drawn with a finger the new permanent cue.

Tip: the more similar the new prompt is to its previous version, the higher the chances for the dog to succeed.

Generalization in Dog Behavior: Feardog fear

Generalization can also occur in dog behavior and we often see examples of this with fears. When people say “dogs’ don’t generalize well” owners of fearful dogs may disagree when they notice how quickly a dog’s fear can generalize and spread like a wild fire! We can see an example of this phenomenon in people. Let’s say a young boy is attacked by a black dog. At some point, the child may acquire fear of black dogs, and then later, fear of all dogs (despite coat color) even though the initial negative encounter encompassed a single black dog. Generalization in this case occurs because of shared features (having four legs and a tail) with the original dog who attacked him.

In dogs, we can see something similar occur. A dog may one day get traumatized by an unusually loud crack of thunder. Soon, the dog comes to react fearfully to the noise of gunshots, then firecrackers, and then other similar loud noises such as a person closing a car door or person clapping hands. Or in another example, a dog who becomes reactive one day towards a man in uniform coming to read the meter, may in the future start becoming reactive towards other people wearing uniforms such as the Fedex and UPS guys.  It’s therefore important tackling fearful behaviors at their early onset before generalization occurs and things get more complicated to treat.

“The more similar the original and subsequent stimuli, the more similar and intense the response.”~ Karen Overall

warning cautionDid you know? According to James O’ Heare, President of The Companion Animal Sciences Institute,  sometimes a dog’s fear generalizes so much that at a certain point you may have a hard time identifying the original stimulus that caused the fear to occur in the first place!

 

little albert generalizationA Look Back

One of the most popular examples of stimulus generalization affecting fear comes from the famous  Little Albert experiment conducted by behaviorist John B. Watson and Rosalie Raynor. What happened in this study? A child around 9 months known as Albert was exposed to various stimuli including a white rat, a monkey, a rabbit and masks and his reactions to these stimuli was observed. Albert showed no signs of fear towards these stimuli whatsoever.

At some point though, Watson decided to make a loud noise by hitting a metal pipe with a hammer the moment Little Albert was shown a white rat. This caused Little Albert to cry. After several repetitions of pairing the rat with the sound, Albert starts to cry at the mere sight of the rat. This was a classical example of associative learning where Albert learned to associate the sight of the rat with the loud noise so much so that just seeing the rat resulted in a crying spell. The experiment though didn’t end here… After further experiments, Watson noticed how Albert’s fear wasn’t just limited to the white rat, but soon began generalizing to a wide variety of similar white objects such as Raynor’s fur coat and Watson’s Santa Claus beard! This phenomenon was therefore called stimulus generalization.

“Generalization is often an adaptive function that allows an organism to rapidly respond to novel stimuli that are related in some way to a previously learned stimuli.”Joseph E. Dunsmoor, Stephen R. Mitroff and, Kevin S. LaBar

References:

  • Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
  • Watson JB, Rayner R (1920) Conditioned emotional reactions. J Exp Psychol 3:1–14
  • Generalization of conditioned fear along a dimension of increasing fear intensity, Joseph E. Dunsmoor, Stephen R. Mitroff, Kevin S. LaBar, Learn. Mem. 2009. 16: 460-469
  • James O’ Heare, The Dog Aggression Handbook, Dogpsych Publishing; 0003- edition (December 1, 2007)

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Dog Word of the Day: Nystagmus

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Today’s dog word of the day is “nystagmus” a neurological term that dog owners may stumble upon when their vet refers to their dog’s abnormal eye movement. This is a condition that can occur in humans as well and can be quite alarming to witness as it is often accompanied by other concerning symptoms. Nystagmus is often seen in senior dogs, but it can occasionally occur in younger dogs as well. This article as any other of our other article tackling health topics, is not meant to be used as substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is experiencing signs of nystagmus, please see your vet.

What’s Going On?dog side eye movement

Nystagmus entails involuntary (not under the dog’s control) eye movements also known as “dancing eyes.” These eye movements are mostly side-to-side with up and down eye movements being less common. What causes these abnormal eye movements in dogs? It’s mostly a matter of something going on with the dog’s vestibular system. The vestibular system includes parts of the dog’s inner ear and brain responsible for processing sensory information involved with controlling balance and eye movements. It also helps coordinate eye movement with head movement. In a healthy dog, when the dog turns his head to right, the eyes move to the left, and when the dog turns his head to the left, the eyes move to the right. This is known as the vestibular-ocular reflex.

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Problems start when the eyes are darting back and forth occur despite the head being  motionless. When this happens, it’s therefore often indicative of a problem with the dog’s vestibular system. The eye movements aren’t always obviously noticeable, therefore, in some cases, dog owners will need to keep their dog’s head completely still and look at the eyes to notice it.

dog with drunk like gait

Causes of Nystagmus

What can cause abnormal eye movements in dogs?  Since the dog’s inner ear is related to the dog’s vestibular system, any disease or injury involving it such as an ear infection involving the inner ear could lead to symptoms such as nystagmus along with balance and neurological symptoms (staggering, drunk-like gait, tilted head, falling over). Another common cause of nystagmus in older dogs is vestibular disease also known as  “Geriatric Canine Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome.” Other possible causes of eyes darting back and forth may include head traumas, cancers affecting the dog’s brain or inner ear, low thyroid levels and acute inflammation of the brain.

Did you know? Dogs with nystagmus may tilt or turn their head so that they can see more clearly.

A dog with nystagmus

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Dog Word of the Day: Trigger Stacking

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Let face it: when it comes to being exposed to annoyances and inconveniences of life, we all eventually have a breaking point. As humans, most of us have gone at some time or another through some phase where everything just seemed to go wrong. Even the calmest person on earth may therefore lose it after being exposed to a series of inconveniences that take place one after another. Like us, dogs can also suffer from the cumulative effects of stress and this can even affect the calmest, well-rounded dogs, the ones that dog owners would never expect them to lash out.  Learning more about trigger stacking can help us better understand the effects it can have on our dogs so we can take steps to better manage their environment and hopefully prevent them from reaching their breaking point.

tetrisUnderstanding Trigger Stacking

Trigger stacking is often a phenomenon that causes dog owners to make remarks such as “Out of the blue,’ my dog bit him, I never expected this from my dog!”  Fact is, ALL dogs (yes, even the calmest, friendliest ones!) have a breaking point. Dog trainers call it “bite threshold“, which is the point where, when push comes to shove, the dog reaches the point where he will bite. The presentation of several triggers, presented one after the other (trigger stacking.) therefore has a cumulative effect which can lower the dog’s bite threshold.

For sake of comparison, imagine the game of Tetris, or for those playing more recent games, other tile-matching video games like Bejeweled or Candy Crush Saga. If you do not clear enough blocks, gems or candy pieces on time, they will start stacking up and accumulating putting the player under cumulative pressure. Failure to clear them in time leads to the stacked pieces piling up to the point where the player loses and the game ends. In a similar fashion, exposure to several triggers stacking up, can put a dog under pressure until he reaches a point where he loses it (literally!)

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“Announcing that nice dogs don’t bite and vicious dogs do is like saying that nice people never argue or get angry and vicious people do” ~Jean Donaldson

Subtle Signs of Stress

Imagine going through a bad day. You wake up with flu-like symptoms, you want to stay in bed but you must get your kids ready for school. Then, right when you are about to take a nap, the phone rings. It’s a debt collector, you forgot to pay a bill. You therefore get dressed and go mail the payment. Then, once back home, you want to take a nap, and a sales man pops up at your door. By the time you go back to bed and you are about to fall asleep, your kids are back from school and it’s time to prepare lunch. You warn your husband and kids that you’re not really in a good mood so you ask them to please be quiet and understanding. All the earlier mishaps have certainly stacked up and you are reaching your breaking point. Dogs can go through similar happenings, but in dogs though the effects of trigger stacking can be trickier to recognize.

Unlike people, dogs can’t talk to warn you about their growing levels of stress and frustration. Spared from the gift of voice, their only form of communication is through their body language. Many signs of dog stress are therefore often missed because they can be quite subtle and dog owners may fail to recognize them. On top of that, dog owners may not realize the effect exposure to certain stimuli can have on their dogs and therefore may assume their dogs are coping well with them, when they are not.

“Trigger stacking refers to numerous triggers occurring together and pushing a dog over this threshold in combination when they would not on their own.” ~Stephanie Hedges

dog tongue flicks whale eyeAvoiding The “Tetris Game Over” Effect

In order to reduce the chances for trigger stacking, you will need to get better accustomed with your dog’s body language and subtle signs of stress, 2) understand his triggers and 3) get more acquainted with his threshold levels, 4) manage your dog’s environment, and 5) get professional help. Following are some general guidelines to prevent your dog from becoming a victim of the effects of trigger stacking.

  • Recognize subtle signs of stress such as lip licks, yawning, whale eyes, shedding of hair.  For more on this read ” Signs of stress in dogs”
  • Learn more about what triggers stress in your dog  and consider that sometimes even what look like fun events such as going to doggy day care or the dog park can have elements of stress. Many dogs can also be stressed by continual exposure to boisterous kids or other pets sharing the household.
  • Learn more about your dog’s threshold. How much can he take before getting stressed? Recall past events when your dog acted stressed so that you can take steps in the future to prevent him from reaching his breaking point. Is he bothered by other dogs when they are at a certain distance?  Then increase that distance. Does he seem to do fine with kids until they interact with him? Then limit such interactions. Does he dislike when dogs are in his face? Then keep him away from places where dogs are allowed off leash. Manage his environment so that you can better gauge the amount of stress he is exposed to and significantly reduce it.
  •  Play it safe, doing your best to not put your dog into situations he cannot handle. Consider that a dog’s  threshold can lower considerably when a dog is not feeling well or is victim of cumulative stress.
  • Look for professional help to nip the problem in the bud before reacting defensively becomes your dog’s new way of life for dealing with stressful events. Vitally important  is to enroll the aid of a dog trainer/behavior consultant specializing in force-free training and behavior modification so that your dog isn’t exposed to the negative effects of aversive dog training. 
  •  Keep in mind that when dogs are exposed to stressful events the stress hormones linger for a while and therefore your dog’s threshold is often lowered for quite some time. Following a stress reduction program is important.

” It takes a while for the stress hormones involved in preparing the body for flight or fight to dissipate and so repeated exposures to frightening or highly stressful situations mean that the body never gets a chance to return to normal.” ~Taryn Blyth

References:

  • Culture Clash: A New Way Of Understanding The Relationship Between Humans And Domestic Dogs Paperback – January 19, 1996 by Jean Donaldson, James & Kenneth Publishers (January 19, 1996)
  • Practical Canine Behaviour: For Veterinary Nurses and Technicians, by Stephanie Hedges, CABI Publishing; 1 edition (11 July 2014)
  • Stress and your Dog By Taryn Blyth, DipCABT (OCN UK) retrieved from the web on June 8th, 2016

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