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Beware of Acepromazine Side Effects for Dog Fear

September 2, 2016June 23, 2016 by Admin

As summer is in full swing, the chances for rain and thunderstorms significantly increase, causing many fearful dogs to shake, hide and panic as they seek a safe retreat around the house from the booming thunder. It’s very tempting to seek out some remedy or medication to help these dogs out, but sometimes things may not go as planned. Acepromazine is a central nervous system depressant that is sometimes prescribed by veterinarians to help dogs better cope with fearful situations such as grooming visits, vet visits and anxiety associated with exposure to loud noises such as thunder and fireworks. As much as Acepromazine may seem effective, there are chances that this same drug meant to help your dog, will actually make things worse.

How Acepromazine Works

Also known as Promace, and often referred to as “Ace,” acepromazine maleate is a sedative that is frequently used in veterinary medicine for its sedative and antiemetic (effective in reducing nausea and vomiting as seen in motion sickness in dogs) effects. This drug is classified as a phenothiazine neuroleptic drug, which, according to veterinarian Dawn Ruben, simply means that it works by changing the chemicals in a dog’s brain so to change behavior accordingly. As a sedative, Acepromazine works by depressing the dog’s central nervous system; however, the exact dynamics remain unknown. There’s belief that it works by blocking the receptors (theD₂ receptors) of dopamine , a neurotransmitter released by the brain that helps regulate movement, focus and attention and emotional responses. By blocking dopamine, Acepromazine should therefore help dogs suffering from fear and anxiety.

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“Acepromazine works by depressing the central nervous system. The exact mechanism of action of acepromazine is unknown. It is thought to block receptors of dopamine in the brain, a chemical used for cell-to-cell communication.”~ Dr. Dawn Ruben

The Problems With Ace

As a sedative, and central nervous system depressor, Acepromazine may at a first glance seem like a good option for anxious and fearful dogs. Indeed, still as of today, Acepromazine remains one of a veterinarian’s preferred go-to tranquilizer; however, there are some problems with its use that more and more veterinarians and board-certified veterinary behaviorist are raising awareness about. So what’s the problem with this drug? There are actually several.

A “Misleading” Effect

At a first glance, Acepromazine may make a dog or cat look as if he’s handling the fear well, when in reality, he just can’t show the signs or do anything about it, explains Jason Nicholas, graduate of The Royal Veterinary College in London, England and Chief Medical Officer of Preventive Vet. If we put ourselves in our dog’s shoes (or better, paws) it’s as if we’re being aware of a fearful situation but because of the drug’s dissociative effects it doesn’t make any logical sense. As Karen Overall claims “it scrambles perceptions.” Phenothiazines such as acepromazine are sedatives but they really do not reduce anxiety, explains Gary Landsberg, board-certified vet working for North Toronto Veterinary Behaviour Specialty Clinic. Marsha Reich, another board-certified veterinarian claims “I do not use acepromazine for thunderstorms because it is not an anxiolytic– a dog is less responsive to the storm, but is just as anxious about it.”

“Acepromazine does little to nothing to help mitigate the fear and anxiety that these suffering pets experience from fireworks and thunderstorms. What it does do though, and do well, is make them unable to move and/or exhibit any of the other outward signs of their fear and anxiety. Ace is kind of like a “chemical straightjacket” in these instances.” ~Jason Nicholas

Increased Noise Sensitivity

Another problem with the use of Acepromazine for dogs who suffer from fear of noises like thunder and fireworks is the fact that it seems to increase sensitivity to noises. Talk about giving something to make dogs feel better, and instead making things much worse! Veterinary behaviorist, Dr. Karen Overall in the video below explains how dropping a hemostat on a metal table will cause an animal treated with Ace to jump despite being sound asleep.

So what happens when a dog is in a situation where there is raised awareness of the frightening stimulus, but it doesn’t make any sense and nothing can be done about it as its motor skills are impaired? It makes the situation much worse, which leads to the dog’s fear increasing, the owner reaching out for more Ace, and the dog being put in a vicious cycle of negative associations while the animal is in a state of lowered arousal and lowered behavioral response and appears ataxic (lacking voluntary coordination of muscle movement).

Risk for Paradoxical Excitement/Aggression

Another possible “side effect” from a behavior standpoint, involves what is known as a “paradoxical” effect. Paradoxical effect simply means that the drug would cause an effect that is opposite to the one it would normally be expected. When working for the vet, I remember seeing this word the first time in a chart. The dog was given Ace, and the owner reported that his dog instead of acting calm, was acting restless and even aggressive at times. The vet recommended the owner not give this drug again. Veterinarian Dawn Ruben warns that dogs taking this drug should be handled gently and not left alone with children due to the risk of paradoxical effects.

” I wish this medication would be placed at the far back of a top shelf and used only exceptionally…If what you need is sedation – acepromazine can be an acceptable adjuvant, but it makes most of my really fearful and really reactive patients worse, so all sorts of other drug combos can work better and do less harm than is done by the routine use of acepromazine.. ~Karen Overall

Did you know? Brachycephalic dog breeds (those with short noses and flat faces) are more prone to develop complications from the use of Acepromazine and its use can be problematic in dogs with the MDR1 gene mutation.

A Vet’s Perspective

So if Ace has such negative effects why would vets prescribe it in the first place? It ‘s likely because Acepromazine has been used for many years so it’s tried and true and vets have been comfortable with using it. “For some reason, switching from ace to something else––even while all the research tells us it’s safer––is a stressful process for all practitioners. Knowing the ins and outs of how our favorite drug works means more safety in the short run…even though we know better choices are available when it comes to achieving a quiet animal,” explains veterinarian Dr. Patty Khuly. There’s also the price factor, as it’quite cheap compared to other drugs and clients like that. Not to mention that it’s common practice for Western medicine to suppress symptoms instead of trying to address the underlying cause. Restless dog? Give Ace. Dog won’t hold still for grooming? Ace comes to the rescue. Ace stops dogs in their tracks and we like that. Dr. Khuly finally adds “Sedating pets without regard for what they may experience is the height of human hubris. Especially when there’s a better way. ”

Alternate Options to Acepromazine

So what should dog owners do if they wish to avoid these undesirable “side effects?” It’s not a bad idea to ask the vet for alternatives or better consult with a veterinary behaviorist. Alprazolam (Xanax) for instance is an anti-anxiety medication that unlike Acepromazine, doesn’t sedate the dog, explains veterinarian Dr. Betsy Brevitz in the book “Hound Health Handbook: The Definitive Guide to Keeping Your Dog Happy.” Anti-anxiety medications work best when used a long a program of force-free behavior modification. Jean Donaldson in the book “Oh Behave!: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker” mentions Valium (diazepam) as a better choice to Acepromazine for fear of storms.

“Acepromazine makes dogs staggery, sluggish, bleary-eyed and generally out-of-it: not what we desire in modern behavioral therapy.”~Nicholas H. Dodman

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary or behavioral advice. If your dog is sick or has behavioral problems, please consult with your vet or veterinary behaviorist.

References:

VSPA Veterinary Specialty Practice Alliance, Treating Thunderstorm Phobia, retrieved from the web on June 23, 2016
DVM360, Storm Phobias, by Karen Overall, retrieved from the web on June 23, 2016
Pet Place, Acepromazine, Promace for Dogs and Cats, by Dawn Ruben, retrieved from the web on June 23, 2016
Hound Health Handbook: The Definitive Guide to Keeping Your Dog Happy, Healthy & Active Paperback – April 1, 2004, by Betsy Brevitz, Workman Publishing Company; 1 edition (April 1, 2004)
The Well-Adjusted Dog: Dr. Dodman’s 7 Steps to Lifelong Health and Happiness for Your BestFriend Paperback – June 24, 2009 by Nicholas H. Dodman BVMS, Mariner Books; 1 edition (June 24, 2009)
Oh Behave!: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker, ny Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing (April 1, 2008)

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Curbing A Dog’s Oral Fixation

June 27, 2016June 16, 2016 by Admin

Just like humans, dogs can develop an oral fixation which means that they are stuck with an obsession of engaging in behaviors involving oral stimulation that persists past puppy hood. However, unlike humans, dogs won’t be stuck smoking, biting their nails or drinking alcoholic drinks. When dogs develop an oral fixation, it often entails chewing and licking inappropriately, a behavior that can often have annoying repercussions that can negatively affect the human-animal companion bond.

Normal Puppy Stage

Puppies, just like human children, go through an oral fixation stage during which they are very prone to mouthing objects. This is a normal part of a puppy’s development as the puppy explores and investigates his surrounding environment with his mouth. During this time, puppies are often attracted to eating feces, which can become a problem if this normal curiosity is addressed incorrectly.

It’s best to encourage the puppy’s oral investigation towards appropriate items such as chew toys and food dispensing puzzles. If you punish the puppy or give him excessive attention when he engages in the poop-eating behavior, there are chances that the behavior will be reinforced, warns Donna Spector, a board-certified veterinarian specializing in Internal Medicine.

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Stuck in a Phase

As mentioned, certain happenings throughout a dog’s life can cause a dog’s oral fixation to persist past puppy hood. According to Stephanie Hedges, Certified Clinical Animal Behaviourist (CCAB), frustration may derive when natural reflexes aren’t allowed to take place. For instance, puppies who are prevented from suckling naturally may develop abnormalities such as oral fixations in adult life. Compulsive licking and sucking can therefore happen when puppies are weaned too early or in puppies who are orphaned and bottle fed at an early age.

On top of that, consider genetics, Golden retrievers are very oral dogs by nature considering that they have a retrieving heritage. “From pups to senior, most goldens love to have something in their mouths,” observes Nona Kilgore Bauer in her book “The Golden Retriever.” Doberman pinschers are notorious for having a history of blanket and flank sucking that may originate from an insatiable suckling drive. Flank and blanket sucking behaviors tend to occur prior to sexual maturity and they seem to precipitated by anxiety or stress. Soon, the behavior puts roots and starts taking place even in the absence of obvious stressors, explains Dr. Nicholoas Dodman, a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

Before Things Get Out of Hand

When a behavior shows signs of starting to get out of hand, it’s important to nip it in the bud before it puts roots and becomes established. If you therefore notice that your dog suckles, mouths, licks, chews or performs any other behavior more often than normal, it’s in your dog’s best interest to get help right away. Following are some tips for puppies or dogs who have just started manifesting signs of oral fixation:

Start with a medical check up. A new interest in sucking, mouthing and chewing behavior may stem from a medical problem. A dental problem, gastro-intestinal upset, neurological disorder or pain due to a joint or spinal problem, may cause a renewed interest in mouthing stuff. Pica, the eating of non-edible items such as dirt, rocks or underwear, can also be caused by underlying medical conditions.
On top of going through a stage during which puppies mouth to explore, around 4 months of age puppies are teething and they may seek, out things to chew to get relief. It’s important to provide puppies with acceptable, age appropriate chewing items during this time, explains veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker in the book “Your Dog: The Owner’s Manual: Hundreds of Secrets, Surprises, and Solutions for Raising a Happy, Healthy Dog.” A wet rag that is twisted and then frozen, can provide a soothing “chew toy” for teething pups. Another option is to fill a Kong with peanut butter and chilling it.
Provide active dogs with more exercise, training and mental stimulation. Boredom may trigger the onset of undesired behaviors and these may include the development of an oral fixation. Providing an enriched environment with chew toys and interactive feeders is a must with such dogs.
Don’t dismiss the effects of stress too! A stressed dog may seek out mouthing and chewing inappropriate items as a way to relieve tension. DAP (Dog Appeasement Pheromone) diffusers, collars or spray bottles can turn helpful in relieving stress, explains veterinarian Jennifer L. Scott.
Redirect inappropriate mouthing behaviors to alternate activities and use counter-conditioning techniques with the aid of a professional.
Breeders should avoid weaning puppies too early. Should a puppy be weaned or lose his mother very early, he may start suckling objects feel as he seeks comfort, just like a thumb-sucking child.
It’s important to redirect displaced, self-calming nursing behaviors directed towards inappropriate objects to more acceptable ones such as puzzle toys stuffed with tempting doggie treats. Alternate behaviors, other than the inappropriate suckling, should be rewarded with treats and praise.
Moderate to severe cases may require the intervention of a dog behavior professional to institute behavior modification, possibly accompanied by prescription medications.

References:

Creature Comforts, Why Does My Dog Eat Poop? by Dr. Donna Spector, retrieved from the web on June 16th, 2016
Reader’s Digest, Ask the Expert: Dog’s Oral Fixation Dangerous? retrieved from the web on June 16th, 2016
Golden Retriever, by Nona Kilgore Bauer, Hispano Europea Editorial; 3 edizione (13 novembre 2006)
Your Dog: The Owner’s Manual: Hundreds of Secrets, Surprises, and Solutions for Raising a Happy, Healthy Dog Hardcover – Marty Becker (Author), Gina Spadafori, Grand Central Life & Style (April 15, 2011)
Practical Canine Behaviour: For Veterinary Nurses and Technicians, by Stephanie Hedges, CABI Publishing; 1 edition (11 July 2014)

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Four Ways Dog Owners Make Dogs Hate Baths

June 27, 2016June 12, 2016 by Admin

Does your dog hate bath-time and hides under the bed the moment he sees you turn the faucet on and grab the towels? If so, rest assured, you are not alone. Countless dogs dread bath time and if we put ourselves in Rover’s shoes we can see that his fear isn’t irrational at all. While we perceive bath-time as a way to relax and smell good, for dogs things can be quite different. So today, we’ll be discovering several reasons as to why dogs hate baths, and the dog’s owners approach is often to blame.

1) Lack of Exposure

There is a reason why breeders, trainers and many books discuss the importance of early socialization in puppies. During a brief sensitive period known as “puppy socialization” puppies are exposed to a variety of stimuli that they will experience throughout their lives so they can accept them and adapt. However, water and rain seems to often be an overlooked stimulus that dog owners often miss.

We tend to avoid puddles, avoid walking in the rain and when we get wet we make a big deal of it. Water and the process of getting wet should be made a fun and an enjoyable experience. Fail to do this, and you may end up paving the path for a water-phobic dog, simple due to fear of the unknown.

2) Forcing the Event

Puppies and dogs need to be exposed to water in a gradual, calm way so to accept it as normal part of life. Forcing the dog to be bathed may lead to cumulative fear and anxiety. Many owners get frustrated and restrain the dog so he has no escape and must endure the whole ordeal without giving them a chance to learn how fun and rewarding being in the water can be. How would you feel if you were fearful of the dentist and you had to be strapped up during the duration of the visit? This would likely only increase your fear. There are not may situations in life that are so rewarding as enticing a dog who is fearful of water to join you at the beach and start playing with waves or with a water hose.

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3) Using Water as Punishment

Another reason dogs may dread water, baths and getting wet in general is using water as punishment. Even though more and more dog trainers and owners are embracing positive, force-free methods for training their dogs, there are still some trainers or dog owners who may recommend squirting dogs with a water pistol to punish them. This often leads to dogs who dread water or getting wet as they associate it with getting startled and perhaps on top of that even their owner’s frustration or anger. Even playfully squirting dogs with water as kids may do when they want to involve Rover in their water games can be traumatic enough for the dog to not want to have anything to do with water in the future.

4) A Scary Stimulus Package

The negative experience with water though may not necessarily stem from the owner’s approach. Bath-time per se’ may encompass several frightening subtleties that can make the whole experience a negative one. For example, the slippery surface of the bath tub, shampoo getting in the ears or eyes, the noise and sensation of water sucked down the drain and the scary hair dryer are just a few components that are part of the bath-time stimulus package. It’s important to be aware of these scary events and turn them into pleasant, fun ones before the fear establishes and puts roots. As the saying goes: “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. “

Tips to Make Dogs Less Fearful of Baths

There are several things dog owners can do to help their dogs overcome their fear of baths. Patience and positive techniques are the building blocks that will pave the path to diminishing fear of water. Here are a few tips to help make dogs less fearful of water:

Start early! If you get a puppy, start exposing him to water, bath time and rain from an early age making it a fun and rewarding experience.
Toys, play and tasty treats introduced in the presence of water can help form positive associations.
Clicker train your dog to target a puddle.
Go gradual in the process. It’s best to arrange mock sessions to make baths fun so when the real need for a bath arises, you are not caught unprepared and your dog has already a history of pleasant experiences.
When it rains lightly, grab that ball or your dog’s favorite fetch toy and engage him in a fun play session under the rain. Once back inside, dry your dog with a cloth and become boring. The rain should become a predictor of good things.
Invest in fun water games made for dogs.
Use only tear-less shampoo and invest in non-slip mats.
This may not be the best option for hygiene freaks, but some owners take a shower with their dogs to make it a pleasant experience.
If your dog hates going into the bath tub, skip the bath tub and try with a light shower or go outdoors and use a hose.
Portable steps may be an option for dogs who hate being lifted and put inside the bath tub.
Get a water hose and start singing silly songs as you squirt the water in many directions and make it look like a fun game. Then, when your dog approaches, grab some treats and make it look as if the water hose is shooting treats out along with water. Afterward, slightly wet your dog with a spritz of water and give a treat right after the water spritz. Spritz, treat, spritz, treat, spritz, treat.
At this point, your dog may be drenched in water. This is a good time to start rubbing in some tear-less shampoo for dogs. Resume the spritz-treat game until your dog’s coat is free of shampoo. Now it’s time to have fun rubbing and drying your pooch.
To make it clear that bath-time and water is what brings on the fun, once you close the faucet and your dog is dry, make all the fun end.

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Using Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs in Dog Training

June 27, 2016June 10, 2016 by Admin

Abraham Maslow first proposed his Hierarchy of Needs in a 1943 paper called “A Theory of Human Motivation” and still as of today, his theory remains a popular framework in modern sociology and psychology. His theory is very simple: meet your basic needs and you will have unlocked the path for reaching your full potential. The basic needs are portrayed in a pyramid, with the most basic and fundamental needs at the bottom and further secondary needs at the top. One cannot move to the next level if the needs of the current level haven’t been met. While Maslow designed his pyramid with humans in mind, similar principles can also be applied in dog training.

The List of Needs

Physiological needs: these are the most important of your dog’s needs, they are basically the ones your dog needs in order to survive. Air, food, water, adequate sleep, veterinary care and shelter are examples of these important physiological needs. If dogs are sick, undernourished and sleep deprived, there’s little space left for learning as their biological needs must be met first.
Safety Needs: Dogs need to feel safe and protected in their environment in order for learning to take to place as they cannot effectively learn if they are stressed. Dog training should be as stress free as possible and this means avoiding harsh, aversion-based training techniques. A structured, predictable routine is also reassuring to many dogs as they know what to expect.

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Love/Belonging: A history of trust and a strong bond with the owner is an important foundation. It’s important for dog owners to provide gentle guidance under the form of force-free dog training techniques. Play is also great way for dogs to bond with their owners and so can be physical contact when the dog shows signs of enjoyment. When there is a history of trust and bonding, dogs are more open to learning and they look forward to being involved in family activities. As social animals, dogs like to feel part of the family.
Esteem: Think only humans have self-esteem? Then, think again. Dogs thrive when they are praised and rewarded for a job well done. Training should focus on making the dog feel confident setting the dog for success. As shy, tentative dogs are trained using positive reinforcement, they gradually become more and more confident.

Self-actualization: at the apex of the pyramid is self-actualization which entails achieving personal growth and reaching our full potential. However, this doesn’t necessarily mean reaching perfection. Every dog has the potential to excel in some area of specialty. Identifying what your dog does best is key to allowing him to thrive. Building on his passion by refining his skills and adding new challenges help keep the dog mentally stimulated and happy. There are many new sports and specialties crafted for dogs nowadays and these include Treibball, canine nosework, Rally Obedience, hunting trials, search and rescue, weight pulling, Canine Musical Freestyle and many more. Even simple things like trick training and letting the dog complete small chores performed at home can help gives dogs a feeling of confidence and achievement.

“”Dog training should not be a battle of wills, but an ever-evolving dance of communication and cooperation” ~Nicole Wilde

References:

Dogs Are People Too: The Practical Guide to Understanding and Training Your Dog (Because You’re More Alike Than You Think!) Paperback – April 4, 2016, by Mary Jean Alsina First Edition Design eBook Publishing (April 4, 2016)
The Dog Rules: 14 Secrets to Developing the Dog YOU WantPaperback – November 5, 2011
by Kyra Sundance, Touchstone; 1 edition (November 5, 2011)

Photo Credits:

Pyramid showing Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, by FireflySixtySeven, (CC BY-SA 4.0)

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Three Reasons Dogs Hate the Mailman

June 27, 2016May 21, 2016 by Admin

OK, dogs may not really hate the mailman, but let’s face it: barking at the mailman seems to be a dog’s favorite hobby. As soon as the truck arrives, otherwise friendly Rover turns into a barking beast and starts lunging at the window or gate as if dealing with his worst enemy, what gives? The above cliche’ is so widespread that postal service employees have started attending seminars on safety around dogs and sometimes carry products to keep dogs away. Until dogs can talk, we may miss out the exact reasons as to why they react in such a way, but we can make some educated assumptions. So here are some reasons why dogs may “hate” the mailman. So Rover, what’s the matter with the mailman?

He’s Coming Into My Territory!

No offense, it’s not only the mailman. Dogs may react in similar ways towards the UPS and Fedex workers, the pizza delivery guys and the plumber, electrician and the poor fellow who comes into your home to fix your cable TV. It’s not a matter of who, but a matter of what these people do. What do they do? From a dog’s perspective they are intruders who are trespassing property. They are loud, uninvited and don’t stop by to say hello. Many dogs have a natural inclination for passively alert barking and some may engage in a more active approach that’s meant to protect territory. There is likely also an element of fear at play when it comes to territoriality, but shhhhh… dogs don’t want you to know about this!

Why they do this: The behavior may be reminiscent of the old days when the dog’s ancestors lived in packs and they had an innate tendency to be alert and protect their resources through urine marking and more active displays tended towards intruders who weren’t part of their social groups and ignored their scent marks invading their “no-passing zones.” When dogs were domesticated and used in villages, their watch dog tendencies were further appreciated. Dogs were selectively bred for their ability to bark when they spotted dangers such as predator animals or enemies. Still as today, many dogs are still appreciated for their alarm barks, even though nowadays a more active role may be frowned upon due to its potential for liability.

He Keeps Coming Back!

What makes dogs really upset about postal workers is that despite all their barking directed towards these delivery guys, they keep coming back and gain no validation as other guests entering the home. These postal workers therefore risk gaining the status as eternal intruders and they fail to hang around long enough for your dog to get accustomed to them, but let’s take a closer look at the dynamics through Rover’s perspective.

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Why they do this: The dog sees the mailman so he starts barking, and every time he barks, the mailman leaves (because that’s part of what mailmen do, deliver the mail and then leave to continue their jobs). From Rover’s perspective, his barking is what is making the mailman leave and therefore it’s highly reinforcing. You can almost hear him thinking out loud “Hey, intruder, get off my turf, you hear me?” So when the mailman leaves, the dog feels some relief, “Phewwww, finally got rid of that intruder!” So every time the mailman comes over to delive mail, Rover will stick to his barking behavior, and if the mailman doesn’t leave right away, he may even add some lunging, growling or snarling into the mix.

To put ourselves in our dog’s shoes, let’s imagine the following scenario. Every morning, a cat comes into your yard. You like cats, but many stray cats are fixated on urine marking your favorite flowers and wall, leading to a terrible odor. So one day you start making a hissing sound to send the cat away. The cat flees promptly upon hearing the sound, so most likely, since it worked, you’ll keep hissing the next time you see the cat approaching your property, but what happens that day a bolder cat approaches and he cares less about your hissing noise? Most likely, you’ll experiment with something else so you may start stomping your feet loudly along with the hissing. Tada! Now, next time you’ll likely hiss and stomp to get rid of the next feline intruder.

Practice Makes Perfect!

When dogs are allowed to rehearse behaviors over and over, they are destined to become habitual. This means they’ll be barking at the mailman every single time.

Why they do this: Dogs are habitual creatures that tend to repeat behaviors that work. Day after day, the barking becomes almost reflexive and it takes just the noise of the truck to elicit barking, without thinking twice.

Not only, there are also chances that the behavior may become even a tad bit addicting. On top of the barking becoming highly reinforcing, it’s possible that associated emotions of fear or anger cause the release of chemicals in the dog’s brain. This whole experience can become physiologically addictive. James O’Heare, in the book “The Canine Aggression Workbook” explains how this chemical bath can become quite addictive, which explains why certain behaviors tend to repeat over and over.

When it comes to fear or aggression, it can generalize quite quickly like a forest fire. Your dog may bark at the mailman, and then his behavior may generalize towards other postal workers, then next, is the pizza guy and then comes the electrician. Also, the barking behavior may also happen earlier and earlier as the dog chains one event with another. So while the barking originally started when the mailman would park his truck in front of your home to place the mail in the mail box, after a few days it could evolve to barking at the mere sound of the truck approaching. So it’s not surprising if soon, not only will dogs bark at the mailman but also to all the anticipatory cues that suggest his arrival. So just like a small spark can trigger a fire, the barking behavior can evolve and get out of hand, and the more time lapses, the more the behavior can become difficult to extinguish, so here are a few tips on nipping the behavior in the bud.

Helping Your Dog Accept the Mailman

If friendly Rover has just started turning into Cujo the moment you get mail, here are some tips for you:

Start early. With this type of training you can’t start early enough. If you have a puppy, make sure you socialize him to all types of people (children, babies, teenagers, the elderly, people wearing hats, people wearing uniforms, people carrying stuff, etc) Let people visit your home, make it fun and rewarding and teach your puppy it’s perfectly fine to have people over. As soon as your pup sees people approaching your home, ask him to sit and give him a cookie. Do this frequently enough, and your pup will come to realize that great things happen when people approach your property. To teach your pup to love the mailman, introduce him from a young age. If your pup is hanging around the yard, place a cookie in your mailbox and ask your mailman to deliver it to him every morning. After some time, you may notice tail wags and possibly barks of happy anticipation!
Prevent Rehearsal. If you missed the train and failed to teach your dog to love the mailman, you may have more homework to do. A good place to start is preventing rehearsal of barking behavior before it becomes too ingrained. This is done through management. So stop allowing your dog to rush out and bark his head off at each delivery. Keep him indoors and cover your windows with window film, if your dog rushes to the window to bark. Keep your dog in a room that’s far enough from street sounds.
Create Positive Associations. Secluding your dog to a room from which he can’t see the mailman, may do nothing to curb the behavior, but it’s a starting point as you plan on working to change the behavior. The goal is to change your dog’s emotions about the mailman changing him from foe to friend so that he feels like welcoming him instead of sending him away. First, you will need to find a distance from which your dog doesn’t react much, next you will need to gradually and systematically expose him while feeding high value treats at the sights and sounds of the approaching mailman. Once he is gone, make all the goodies stop. Good things happen only when the mailman is around, get it? So now instead of being worried about these intruders taking away resources and invading property, now these postal workers are welcomed and become actual sources of resources!

Did you know? Patricia McConnell in her book “The Cautious Canine” suggests having the pizza delivery guy come to your home and deliver a slice of pizza just for your dog to create positive associations.

Warning: always make safety your top priority! Behavior modification can come with risks for you (re-directed bites) and others. Never let your dog free to greet the mailman no matter how much he has progressed. Doing so can potentially hurt your mail man. If you have given your dog treats every time he sees the mail man and you wish to progress and have your mailman hand feed them, it’s best to have your mail man toss them safely through the fence rather than having him risk being bit from direct exposure! If your dog is aggressive in any way, please consult with a veterinary behaviorist, a certified applied animal behaviorist or a force-free trainer well-versed in dog behavior modification.

References:

“The Canine Aggression Workbook” by James O’ Heare, Dogpsych Publishing; 0003- edition (December 1, 2007)
The Cautious Canine-How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears 2nd Editionk, by Patricia B. McConnell
McConnell Publishing, Ltd.; 2nd edition (June 1, 1998)

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Taro shiba and his USPS pose, by Taro the Shib Inu, edited by adding title and formatting, CC BY 4.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Oh Yeah! by torbakhopper,”woof” he doesn’t even see the mail man in the background (CC BY 4.0)

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Four Reasons Dogs Shake Their Fur

June 27, 2016May 19, 2016 by Admin

Many dog owners have witnessed their dogs shaking their fur at some time or another, but what makes these dogs shake their bodies in the first place? As with other doggy behaviors, the reasons why dogs may engage in a full body shake may vary based on context. We often see dogs shake their bodies when their coat is wet or when they get up after a nap, but sometimes these body shakes may seem to occur for no reason at all, but there may be possible explanations that are worthy of discovering.

1) To Get Rid of Water

It’s one of those classic scenes you often see portrayed on newspaper comic strips or in movies or commercials. A dog is given a bath and right upon coming out of the tub he scrolls his fur vigorously with an accomplished look on his face. Those who know their dogs well often prepare in advance for it by taking precautionary measures to avoid the ubiquitous droplets flinging off the dog’s fur. Those who are caught unprepared instead get to enjoy a complimentary shower.

We know that dogs shake their bodies to get rid of the excess water on their coats, but what makes them scroll their fur in the first place? The famous doggy rinse cycle, stems from an innate instinct and dogs didn’t have to take a Dog Drying 101 class to master it. This behavior is adaptive, meaning that it’s productive and has therefore contributed to the animal’s individual’s survival or reproductive success. In the wild, when furry animals get wet in cold weather, there are high risks for hypothermia to set in should they not be able to dry themselves quickly. Thanks to the full body shake, animals can use a mechanism that is similar to shivering so they can effectively dry themselves within minutes, explain Andrew K. Dickerson, Zachary G. Mills and David L. Hu in a study published in the Journal of the Royal Society Interface. This fast and energy efficient doggy rinse cycle therefore allows dogs to conserve energy as carrying a heavy coat and generating heat to allow it to evaporate can be quite consuming from an energetic standpoint.

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Did you know? Allowing a wet 60-pound dog to carry an extra pound of wet fur and allowing it to evaporate would take approximately 20 percent of his daily caloric intake!

2) To Get Rid of Debris

You’re familiar with the drill: your dog wakes up from a nap, stretches, then takes a step, slows down and then engages in a full head-to-tail body shake. Afterward, the dog goes back to his usual activities. Why do dogs scroll their fur after waking up?

Again, this behavior is reminiscent of a dog’s past, but this time dogs aren’t getting rid of excess water, rather their focus is to remove anything that could have clung to the dog’s fur while sleeping. Before dogs were allowed to sleep on sofas, couches or Kuranda beds, their sleeping areas encompassed grass, dirt and other natural surfaces. It is therefore instinctive for dogs to shake their bodies after lying down so they could remove any dirt, awns, dust and debris from their coats.

3) To Remove Irritation

Deprived from opposable thumbs, dogs must find alternate ways to rid themselves from an annoying itch. Sure, they can use their legs and teeth to scratch certain spots, but for those few areas that are hard to reach, dogs must rely on other ways to get relief. A nice body shake will often suffix when dogs feel something odd on their coats and attempt to get rid of it. A dog’s coat has several hair follicles supplied with nerves that relay sensory information to the brain which in turn elicits the dog’s fur shaking behavior just when something doesn’t feel right.

This type of body scroll is often seen in dogs after being groomed, which can upset the owners who have worked hard on creating fancy hairdos. Sometimes we must put ourselves in our dogs shoes and realize that back in time, there were no groomers, therefore subjecting dogs to stylish hairdos can make their fur feel weird which may trigger a body shake to get things back to normal. It’s therefore quite normal for dogs to scroll their fur after cleaning their ears or to get rid of that annoying bow on the head that has your dog wonder whether there’s some odd bug crawling on his skin. Other triggers for shaking the fur include the presence of pesky parasites, skin irritations and itchy ears. So should your dog be scrolling his body or his head repeatedly, consider that some sort of irritation such as an ear infection or bad teeth may be the culprit, claims veterinarian Rick Huneke at Washington University School of Medicine.

4) To Shake Off Emotions

We often associate shaking the fur with removing water or some other irritant from the coat, but in some cases, it may be indicative of something going on at an emotional level. When shaking the fur occurs out of context, such as when the dog is not wet or waking up from a nap, it can a sign that the dog is shaking his fur as a sign of relief.

You may stumble on this type of fur shaking after the dog is suddenly pet from a stranger or after encountering another dog that perhaps was a bit grumpy. It’s almost as if the dog says “phewww, glad that’s over!” and by scrolling the fur the dog is getting rid of stress and tension. So it doesn’t hurt to watch in what context the fur shaking behavior occurs as it could be telling us something about the dog’s interaction and how he may feel.

“When I am training dogs, I often look for them to give that quick shake at some point because training can be stressful for them.” ~ Cis Frankel

References:

Urban Dog: The Ultimate Street Smarts Training Manual, By Cis Frankel, Willow Creek Press (September 1, 2000)
MadSci Network, Why do some dogs sometimes shake their heads vigorously after waking up?, retrieved from the web on May 19th, 2016
The Royal Society Publishing, Wet mammals shake at tuned frequencies to dry, Andrew K. Dickerson, Zachary G. Mills, David L. Hu, Published 17 August 2012.DOI: 10.1098/rsif.2012.0429

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Puppy Acting Skittish? It Might be a Fear Period

November 25, 2016May 5, 2016 by Admin

Puppies and young adolescent dogs can sometimes start acting skittish around certain stimuli and dog owners may be wondering why their beloved dogs are undergoing such behavior changes when they seemed fine just a few days or weeks prior. What is going on? There are chances that their puppy or adolescent dogs may be going through what is known as a fear period. During this time, puppies and young dogs may show skittish behaviors towards familiar stimuli and act as if they’re seeing them for the first time, or they may manifest a reluctance to approach new things (neophobia, fear of new things). As the name implies, this time shall pass, but dog owners can up their chances for a positive resolution by helping their dogs sail through these delicate developmental phases.

First Fear Period (8-11 weeks)

While puppies are curious and eager to explore their surroundings during their first 3 to 5 weeks, in the next following weeks they become gradually more and more skittish of their surroundings and have a harder time adapting to new situations or things.

According to Canine Companion for Independence the first fear imprint period generally takes place in puppies between 8 and 11 weeks of age.

During this time, it’s important to take care that puppies aren’t exposed to overwhelming (no crazy costume parties!) or traumatic experiences which can have quite a negative impact for a lifetime.

This first fear period coincides with when the puppies become more mobile and in the wild would start exploring life outside their dens. A lack of caution at this age could easily get the vulnerable puppies killed, explains Patricia McConnell in the book “For the Love of the Dog.”

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“Puppies demonstrate an investigation-attraction behavior towards the unfamiliar as soon as they are able to express this attraction (almost adult motor capacity), in other words at 3½ weeks. This attraction subsides in an almost linear manner after the fifth week until at least 9 weeks.”~Dr. Joël Dehasse

Second Fear Period

A second fear period may also take place later on when the puppy has turned into an adolescent. This fear period lasts generally a bit longer, it tends to take place generally between 8 and 14 months and can occur more than once. There’s belief these fearful periods coincide with growth spurts.

Dog owners may find the second fear period more worrisome as the cautious behaviors sometimes mature into fear-related aggression.

Patricia McConnell, this time in the book “The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs” refers to this stage as “juvenile-onset shyness.” She says: “These are puppies that are relatively confident until they hit some developmental stepping stone and become cautious as teenagers.” It’s good practice to keep polishing a dog socialization skills for at least the first year of life.

“Because in some dogs this cautiousness can lead to fear-related aggression, all dogs should be kept well socialized during (at least) the first year of life”~ Patricia McConnell

Is it Really a Fear Period Though?

Something important for dog owners to evaluate is whether the dog is really undergoing a fear period or if there’s perhaps something else going on.

If the puppy reacts fearfully when a person suddenly opens an umbrella in his face, that fear is quite normal as it’s a startling event that catches him unprepared, but if your puppy has always been fine walking by a trash can and now out of the blue he’acting skittish around it, there are chances you may dealing with this developmental phase.

Fear periods may vary from one dog and another as fear can have a genetic and environmental component, the age of onset may vary based on breed and there is still not much research involved on this particular topic.

The most we know about fear periods today seems to be based on anecdotal evidence. Fear is a complex emotion and puppies are known for being capable of feeling the effects of a mother’s dogs stress as early as being in the womb. While there is belief that that there are at least two fear periods (some suggest there are more), there are chances that dogs go through more of these sensitized phases during their first couple of years of life and perhaps in a random pattern throughout their growth rather than at exact fixed times.

As mentioned, a fear period should be just a period where dogs temporarily act leery towards familiar stimuli or novel ones. Problems start though when the fear starts becoming chronic. In a puppy or young dog, the fear period should not be protracted for too long.

When the pup encounters a novel stimuli, he may tentatively approach the object at first in an approach/avoidance fashion, but soon, he should show signs of recovering. After a few encounters and investigations, the pup should be able to cognitively process the novelty and finally “categorize” it as non-harmful accepting it in future encounters. An inability to spring back into a state of normalcy after repeated encounters may be a sign of some neurological deficit or genetic predisposition more than a transitional fear period.

Avoid These Big Mistakes!

How you handle the fear period (or any other form of fear) can make a difference in the outcome. There are things you may do that will only frighten your dog more and there are things that can help him.

Let’s start with what not to do. Absolutely avoid scolding your puppy or adolescent dog as this only will increase the fear and prevent an outlet for the stress.

While scolding your dog or using any other form of punishment may seem to temporarily suppress the growling or lunging behavior, one must remember that these behaviors are outward manifestations of an internal turmoil.

Suppressing them is like placing a lid and not allowing the steam to escape. Sooner or later, an “explosion” may occur causing the dog to eventually lose it and snap. Purposely exposing the dog to overwhelming situations so “he gets over it” is likely to create severe and long lasting problems which can be difficult to overcome.

Capture — Use food to create powerful associations!

Changing Perceptions

So how can a puppy or adolescent dog be helped during a fear period? One big help is pairing the stimulus the dog is frightened of with something the dog really likes.

So if say you are scared of spiders, how would you feel if every time you saw one, a hundred dollar bill fell from the sky? Most likely you would want to encounter more and more spiders!

This behavior modification technique is known as counterconditioning and it is often accompanied by systematic desensitization, which means you are gradually exposed to the source of your fears.

So instead of being immersed in a bath tub full of tarantulas, you are initially shown one from a distance so you do not feel overwhelmed.

So how would we apply this to our dogs? If your puppy or dog is suddenly scared of the trash can, find a distance from where Mr. Trash Can doesn’t cause too much fear. Too much fear inhibits learning, so you want to minimize the fear reaction as much as you can. This often entails walking at a certain distance where your dog acknowledges Mr. Trash Can but doesn’t feel too threatened.

As soon as your dog orients his attention towards it, feed some doggy currency in the form of high-value treats. Give these treats exclusively for these sessions. Don’t fall in the temptation to get too close to the trash can though, as your dog may not be ready for that level of interaction as of yet. Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to conquering fears.

Allow your dog to investigate whatever he fears on his own pace and remember to praise/reward any initiative your puppy or dog takes! While the window of opportunity for the puppy socialization phase is believed to close at around 14 to 16 weeks, socialization and training opportunities should virtually never end. One should never underestimate the neuroplasticity of a dog’s brain as learning is a lifelong experience!

References:

UC Davis, Canine Companions for Independence, Critical periods in puppy development, retrieved from the web on May 5th, 2016
Sensory, Emotional and Social Development of the Young Dog By Dr. Joël Dehasse, retrieved from the web on May 5th, 2016
For the Love of a Dog: Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best Friend, By Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. Ballantine Books; 1 Reprint edition (July 22, 2009)
The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs, By Patricia McConnell, Ph.D, Ballantine Books (February 19, 2009)

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Six Surprising Reasons Why Dogs Smack Their Lips

November 4, 2016April 30, 2016 by Admin

In the human world, lip smacking is something we do when we open and close our mouth loudly to express a strong desire to eat something we like, but in the dog world, lip smacking can take place for many other reasons. Some dog owners may find the behavior concerning especially when a dog licks his lips excessively, while others may find it downright annoying. By the way, if you are terribly bothered by those lip smacking noises your dog makes, there are chances you may have a condition known as “misophonia” which literally means “hatred of sound” and can involve specific noises produced when someone eats, yawns or when dogs smack their lips. Back to dogs, let’s discover six surprising reasons why dogs smack their lips.

dog lip smacking — Yum! Dog licks his chops at the sight of his food.

1) Anticipation of Food

Just like us, a dog’s mouth may water when he sees food, smells food or even thinks about food. This collection of saliva in a dog’s mouth may cause him to drool, which is often seen in dogs with heavy jowls, but sometimes dogs may just discreetly smack their lips to collect the excessive saliva that collects laterally and prevent it from seeping out. In this case, the lip smacking behavior occurs when there is something in the dog’s environment that has to do with food. You’re likely to see your dog smack his lips therefore when you’re cooking something or when you’re prepping your dog’s meal.

Surprising fact: Your dog may even smack his lips when no food is around. When Russian physiologist Ivan Pavlov started studying the digestive process in dogs, he noticed how the dogs salivated naturally when food was presented, but what was really surprising is that the dogs started salivating even upon the mere sight of the white lab coat of the experimental assistants! Basically, the dogs started associating food with the lab assistant’s coat so they drooled upon seeing it and at some point even upon hearing the lab assistant’s foot steps!

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So if you ever clicker trained your dog, don’t be surprised if he smacks his lips when you get the clicker out or upon clicking it, even before you give a treat. From your dog’s perspective, the clicker is what dog trainers call a secondary or conditioned reinforcer, meaning that the dog has learned to associate it with treats. Its mere presence can trigger a lip smacking event. Same goes with seeing Aunt Molly. If every time Aunt Molly meets your dog she gives him a treat, just seeing her may elicit a lip smacking episode as he anticipates food from her!

2) A Bout of Nausea

Just before people or dogs vomit, saliva accumulates in the mouth and this may trigger lip smacking in dogs and drooling or repeated swallowing in humans. Why this saliva accumulates in the mouth before vomiting is not entirely clear, but according to Science Focus, there is belief that it may be a protective measure to prevent the throat, mouth and teeth from being harmed by the highly acidic stomach contents when they’re brought up. Fortunately, most cases of dog lip smacking from nausea resolve after the dog has vomited, but sometimes the nausea may go on for some time and the dog may be repeatedly gulping down saliva.

Surprising fact: dogs can get acid reflux too! Small dogs are particularly prone to it as they have tiny stomachs and their metabolisms are so fast that their stomachs remain empty for some time. When their stomach is empty, they produce gastric acid, but since it’s not absorbed by food, it stays in the stomach, irritating the lining and causing nausea and vomiting of yellow bile, explains veterinarian Dr. Fiona.

3) A Mouth Problem

When we have mouth or tooth pain, we may look inside the medicine cabinet to address the pain and make an appointment with the dentist. Dogs have no way to tell us about their problem, other than showing signs of discomfort such as lip smacking and drooling, dropping food as they eat and pawing at the mouth. Problems that may affects a dog’s mouth or tooth may include periodontal disease, objects embedded in the dog’s mouth or problems with the salivary glands. If you live in an area where there are foxtails, consider that these pesky awns may have lodged somewhere into your dog’s mouth or throat causing lots of discomfort, lip smacking, drooling and gagging.

Surprising fact: In the world of fairy tales, kissing a frog may turn it into a prince, but in the dog world kissing the wrong type of toad may lead to lip smacking and foaming at the mouth and may even turn life threatening if veterinary care isn’t sought in a timely manner. Problems start when a dog licks a giant toad or a Sonoran desert toad, two species that secrete toxic substances as a defense mechanism. Along with foaming at the mouth, affected dogs may develop a high temperature, red gums, trouble breathing, abnormal heart rhythms, seizures and even death. The Pet Poison Helpine recommends rinsing the mouth out and immediately contacting the vet.

4) A Sign of Pain/Illness

As a species that relies of words and vocalizations, us humans often assume dogs will show their pain though whines, whimpers and yelps, but that’s not always that way. Many dogs show subtle signs of pain that are often missed by dog owners or attributed to other things others than pain. Other than nausea, lip smacking can be a sign of pain explains veterinarian Dr. Jake Tedaldi in the book: “What’s Wrong with My Dog?” Once the pain is taken care of, the lip smacking behavior should therefore resolve.

Surprising fact: there are several other physical ailments that could trigger lip smacking in dogs. For example, liver and kidney disease can cause lip smacking, and so can dehydration, further suggests Dr. Tedaldi. In some cases, partial seizures may also cause a dog to lick the air and snap, as if catching imaginary flies.

5) A Calming Signal

In dogs, licking the lips can be what Roger Abrantes calls a “pacifying behavior.” Dogs basically engage in this behavior to diffuse a perceived threat using the lip smacking action as an appeasing signal. It can be seen in dogs who are stressed, anxious or nervous about an interaction or when there is some type of conflict going on. Many dogs smack their lips when they are being photographed (it makes some dogs uneasy) or when an owner trips on them. As with other behaviors, it’s important to look at context as things can get blurry at times. A person may assume a dog may smack its lips from nervousness when starting a training session, but it could also mean the dog is anticipating treats. Patrica McConnell in her blog suggests a way to distinguish the two.

“Usually, (but not always) licking in anticipation of food involves the tongue moving laterally, to the side of the dog’s mouth, while in other types of lip licks the tongue moves straight forward.” ~ Patricia McConnell

Surprising fact: Lip licking behavior has likely evolved with the dog because it has proven to prolong the dog’s life increasing its chance of surviving and reproducing, suggests Abrantes. The behavior must have therefore puts roots as it helped the dog survive conflicts without incurring in physical harm.

6) Attention Seeking Behavior

Last but not least, lip smacking behavior may occur at times because the dog notices that it gets the owner’s attention. After ruling out any medical causes, this may be a possibility if every time your dog smack his lips, you turn to look at him or talk to him. The lip smacking behavior therefore puts roots because it has been accidentally reinforced by the owner. Dogs who look for attention are often dogs who are socially deprived spending the majority of the day alone and craving any form of attention when the owner comes home. As with other behaviors, it’s important to look at context. If it happens only in presence in the owner, it’s likely attention-seeking behavior. By recording the dog’s behavior in the owner’s absence, one can probably deduce if it may be attention-seeking behavior or perhaps something else.

Surprising fact: Dogs have been known for engaging in surprising behaviors just for the sake of attention, even pseudo-medical attention-seeking behaviors, like faking lameness or face scratching, explains Dr. Nicholas Dodman. And if you were wondering, consider that even negative attention such as reprimanding the dog telling him to stop may qualify as attention to a dog who is craving attention. The best approach is to totally ignore.

“Even telling your dog to stop, or reprimanding him, can be rewarding for some dogs. The principle here is that some attention, even negative attention, is better than no attention at all.” ~Dr. Nicholas Dodman

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a diagnostic tool or as a substitute for professional veterinary or behavioral advice. If your dog is smacking his lips, see a vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Six Causes of Lip Smacking in Dogs

References:

What’s Wrong with My Dog? by Dr. Jake Tedaldi, Fair Winds Press (August 1, 2007)
Science Focus, Why do we salivate before we vomit, by Luis Villazon, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016
Roger Abrantes, Pacifying Behavior, Origin Function and Evolution, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016
The Other End of the Leash, What Does Licking Mean? by Patricia McConnell, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016
Pet Place, Attention-Seeking Behavior in Dogs, by Dr. Nicholas Dodman, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016

Care Giving and Care Seeking Behaviors in Dogs

June 27, 2016April 28, 2016 by Admin

Among the many amazing things dogs do, care giving is one of those things that often marvels us when we watch the interactions between a mother dog and her pups. Unlike humans, those talented mother dogs didn’t get to play with dolls or read directions on how to mix formula or learn how to change a diaper. Taking good care of puppies is something that is instinctive in most mother dogs, courtesy of hormones and the care-seeking behaviors in pups which are know to evoke nurturing behaviors (even though there are sometimes exceptions to the rule). Today, we’ll be taking a look at care giving and care seeking behaviors in dogs, or in more technical terms, epimeletic and et-epimeletic behaviors in dogs.

Epimeletic Behaviors in Mother Dogs

Epimeletic behaviors are simply those behaviors that entail giving care to others. These mostly entail those nurturing, care giving behaviors that are carried out by mother dogs and are targeted towards their puppies. Puppies being part of altricial species, strongly depend on their mothers for survival, so maternal instincts in mother dogs are particularly strong. Care giving behaviors are largely influenced by the effect of hormones. In particular, the maternal hormone prolactin, fosters protective behaviors and also plays a role in stimulating the milk let down process.

“Prolactin controls milk production and fosters the feeling of maternal protectiveness. ” ~Nicholas Dodman

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Following are some examples of care giving behaviors carried out by mother dogs:

Severing the pup’s umbilical cord with the teeth
Attending to distress calls of pups who are hungry, cold or who got separated from the rest.
Licking puppies to stimulate urination and defecation.
Lying down on the side to help the puppies nurse.
Regurgitating food for the pups when they’re being weaned (still seen in some mother dogs).
Protecting the puppies from any perceived harms.

Note: there may be variances in epimeletic behaviors in mother dogs, with some dogs showing exaggerated forms (excessive grooming) and deficits (failure to groom, nurse or care for the pups.)

Did you know? Mother dogs tend to pick up puppies and carry them around keeping their whole body in their mouth with feet dangling down, versus cats who carry their kittens by the skin, explain John Paul Scott and John L. Fuller in the book “Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog.”

Et-epimeletic Behavior in Puppies

Et-epimeletic behaviors are simply those behaviors that entail seeking care from others. These are often soliciting, care seeking behaviors that are carried out from puppies and are targeted towards their mother. Following are some examples of care-seeking behaviors in puppies:

Distressed calls when hungry, cold or separated from mother dog and the pups.
Licking the lips of mother dog to greet/ get attention/solicit her to regurgitate food for them.
Pawing and jumping to reach mother dog’s face to greet/get attention/solicit regurgitation.

Note: according to Steven Lindsay there may also be variances in et-epimeletic behaviors, with some dogs showing exaggerated forms (excessive attention seeking, dependency) and deficits (failure to bond, withdrawn.)

Et-epimeletic Behaviors in Dogs Past Infancy

Interestingly, the above et-epimeletic behaviors aren’t limited to young puppies. Some of these infantile behaviors are often retained past early infancy in a dog’s interactions with humans and other dogs although in some cases these behaviors are carried out for slightly different reasons. Therefore these behaviors that started in early infancy become part of a dog’s behavior repertoire often because they have a history of reinforcement or they have been inadvertently reinforced by owners. Here are a few examples of et-epimeletic behaviors retained into adulthood:

Whining, barking or howling for care and attention.
Emitting distress calls when separated from owners as seen in separation anxiety..
Yelping out of pain.
Begging at the table asking to be fed.
Hand and face licking directed towards humans.
Licking the lips of other dogs so to seek information or exhibit deferential greeting behaviors.

Did you know? Karen Overall in the book “Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats” explains that lip licking is sometimes seen in dogs who have been separated from another dog for some time and are trying to gain information. The dog who is licked may open the mouth to provide a respiratory sample that carries neurochemical information such as food and behavior state.

References:

Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems, By Steve Lindsay, Iowa State University Press; 1st edition (2001)
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog, By John Paul Scott, John L. Fuller, University of Chicago Press; 1 edition (July 10, 2012)
Pet Place, Understanding Canine Maternal Behavior, by Nicholas Dodman, retrieved from the web on April 28th, 2016.

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Unearthing Seven Surprising Reasons Why Dogs Dig

June 27, 2016April 2, 2016 by Admin

We are all familiar with a dog’s digging habits, but we might not be fully aware of what triggers a dog to dig in the first place. What’s exactly behind a dog’s digging behavior? To better understand what is truly going on, we may need to first get into our dogs’ heads. Until the day dogs can talk, we can only make assumptions, but we may get some hints by carefully observing what is happening as our dogs intently scratch the dirt with their paws as they work on building a whole golf course in a day. Interestingly, some reasons why dogs dig may surprise you. There are diggers and diggers in the canine world! What kind of digger is your dog?

1) The Hunter

If your dog is a hunter at heart, he may find digging to be an effective way to fulfill his instinctive needs. There are many small critters who like to burrow themselves underground such as mice, moles, groundhogs, voles and several types of tarantulas. If your dog sniffs, then starts digging, then pauses, listens, sniffs and then resumes digging, most likely he is relying on his senses to learn more about the whereabouts of these underground critters.

Among the vast array of dogs populating the planet, the small, determined terriers are likely to win the “digging dog prize.” Just think that the word “terrier” derives from the Latin word “terra” meaning earth. These feisty, short-legged dogs were selectively bred to “go to ground” digging through dens and burrows as they hunted down their dwellers.

Tip: Look for some safe, humane methods to fence the critters out of the yard. Provide your dog with interactive toys that will keep his mind mentally stimulated. For small terriers, consider enrolling them in fun “earth dog” trials.

2) The Gatherer

Not all dogs dig to hunt for underground critters, for some dogs, unearthing and gathering plants, bulbs, roots and all the like may be equally fun. Some dogs discover their “green thumb” after watching their owners gardening. So next time, your dog digs up your flower beds, hold you temper and refrain from the temptation to punish him. Chances are, he’s likely just imitating you!

Not too long ago, a study revealed that our canine companions are capable of copying our behaviors as long as 10 minutes after they happened. For some dogs though there may be more to it than mere imitation. To a puppy or a bored dog looking for stimulation, playing a game of “tug” with some sturdy tree roots may be fun enough to make digging them up totally worth it!

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Tip: fence up your garden and provide your dog a “digging zone” area where he can dig to his heart’s content. Your plants and your dog will thank you!

3) The Builder

If your dog is left out in the yard for the most part of the day, his digging may be his way of building himself up a shelter. Deprived from a heating or cooling system, he may need to figure out his own way to keep himself toasty warm or refreshingly cool.

In the summer, dogs may dig to build up a nice resting spot by exposing the cooler dirt. When these dogs lie down, they get to expose their belly to the cool soil. In the winter instead, dogs may dig holes in the dirt or snow to build their own den-like enclosures so they can stay warm. The best way to figure out if your dog is building holes to warm up or cool down? See if he’s lying down on them or inside them.

Tip: Provide your dog with an insulated dog house and extra blankets in the winter, and for the summer, provide cooling options such as a shaded area or a shallow wading pool. Even better, invite your dog inside to share your heating and cooling systems!

4) The Explorer

Some dogs dig just for the sake of exploring. Digging unravels an interesting world of intriguing scents and secret treasures. “When dogs dig, they aerosolize scents that may been hidden,” explains veterinary behaviorist Karen Overall, in the book “Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats.”With their powerful sniffers they therefore get to explore and keep their mind stimulated.

On top of that, digging may further prove to be rewarding when dogs unearth hidden treasures such as a forgotten toy or a bone the dog buried there several weeks ago. Many dogs who entertain themselves by digging are sporting/herding dogs looking for a “job.”

Tip: Want to unleash the explorer in your dog ? Fill up an old swimming pool with lots of sand and bury several toys under the sand. Then, watch your dog go on a fun treasure hunt! These dogs thrive on exercise and mental stimulation, so make sure to provide plenty. Oh, and for dogs who bury bones for later consumption, you can curb this tendency by providing treats that are likely to be consumed in one setting.

5) The Escapist

Where does your dog dig exactly? Believe it or not, the location where your dog digs can tell you what he may be up to. If the digging is particularly focused by the fence line, there are chances that he is digging himself a tunnel so he can escape from the yard.

Why would your dog want to escape? It could be because he feels lonely or bored, or perhaps he wants to hunt, explore or meet new friends on the other side of the fence. In some cases, digging by the boundaries may be a sign of separation anxiety if your dog does that when you leave the house.

Tip: You can bury chicken wire at the base of the fence keeping the sharp edges rolled up away from the yard; however, you may ultimately want to find a way to let your dog feel less lonely, bored or anxious.

6) The Attention Seeker

Does your dog dig the most when he’s in your company? If so, the digging may be triggered by a need for attention. It doesn’t matter if you are scolding your dog when he digs, for a dog who craves attention, any form of attention may do. Suspect this type of digging if your dog mostly digs in your presence and doesn’t receive much interaction from you during the day. Perhaps you are away for most of the day or you don’t pay much attention to your dog.

Fact is, many dog owners have a tendency to ignore their dogs when they’re calm and well behaved and give their dogs plenty of attention (of the negative type) when they’re misbehaving. Dogs soon learn this pattern which translates into the persistence of undesirable behaviors not because the dog enjoys the activities per se’, but because he enjoys the attention that comes along for the ride. Some dogs may even find the negative attention amusing to the point that they think it’s a fun game! This means it’s time to shift methods!

Tip: Reverse the use of your attention. Ignore the attention-getting digging, while you dole out loads of praise and attention when your dog doesn’t dig or engage in any other troublesome behaviors. Soon, your dog will learn that good behaviors yield the oh, so desired attention!

7) The Messengers

Some dogs take leaving “pee mail” to a whole new level. These are the dogs who will dig before they eliminate for the purpose of “aerosolizing” the dirt so they get to “read” the messages of dogs who were there prior to them. Other dogs will scratch the dirt with their back paws after they eliminate in hopes of adding further visual and olfactory components to their “outputs.”

Did you know? Dogs have sweat glands on their paw pads, and along with those, they also have sebaceous glands in between their toes. When they scratch, they are therefore likely to spread around these special glandular secretions, explains Jensen P. in the book “The Ethology of Domestic Animals: An Introductory Text.”

This type of dirt scratching is more likely to occur in places frequented by other dogs, so expect to see it more in places other than your property (unless your yard is not fenced and it’s often visited by other animals).

References:

The Ethology of Domestic Animals: An Introductory Text 1st Edition, by P. Jensen, CABI Publishing; 1st edition (August 8, 2002)
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, by Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
American Association for the Advancement of Science, Your Dog Is a Copycat, by Virginia Morell, retrieved from the web on April 2nd, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, John Collins, DSC_3594 (CC BY 2.0) edited to add title
Flickr Creative Commons, Joshua Ganderson, untitled (CC BY 2.0)

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