Adrienne Farricelli, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

How to Give a Dog a Bad Tasting Pill

October 25, 2016October 23, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

A time in your life may come when you’ll need to give your dog some bad-tasting, bitter pills. Sure, there are certain medications such as beef flavored heart worm chews that dogs eagerly gulp down like there’s no tomorrow, and then there are those bitter pills that turn Rover into the canine personification of a stubborn mule who won’t budge no matter what, so how to give an obstinate dog a bad tasting pill? Fortunately, there are several tricks of the trade that can turn dogs into collaborative patients. So today we’ll be discovering some of them that will hopefully turn pilling your dog into a breeze.

First Some Acknowledgements

First and foremost, let’s give our dogs some credit. Dogs have no idea whatsoever that those pills are good for them no matter how much we try to persuade them into thinking that they’ll help them feel better quickly. We also can’t tell dogs to just take the pill and wash it down with a big gulp of water.

Dogs rely on their instincts and Mother Nature has developed their senses so that they could avoid eating things that can be potentially harmful for them. Eating a bitter pill is not only unpleasant, but a dog most likely instinctively “knows” to avoid bad tastes. Bad tasting things raise a red flag about something that can be harmful or even toxic and that therefore should be avoided. What looks like stubborn behavior to us is instead the clever work of nature and adaptive!

Just like us, dogs have several taste buds scattered on their tongues that helps them determine what and what not to eat. A dog’s taste buds are equipped with special receptors that are meant to relay important messages to the dog’s brain. What sort of messages are transmitted? If say, your dog detects something bitter or plain nasty, his brain will make a note of it and quickly evoke your do to spit it out. Bleeeeh!

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Did you know? The function of taste is so important for survival that, in puppies, the sense of taste (along with the sense of smell and touch) is one of the first senses to be present, even though it takes a few weeks to fully sharpen.

“Sensations of pleasure and disgust provided by taste serve a survival function. A reasonable rule of thumb, at least for natural substances, is that bad tastes are a signal that the animal has encountered something that is harmful, indigestible, or poisonous…”~Stanley Coren

A Word of Caution

Hunting your dog down to give him a bad-tasting pill day after day, is not only a daunting and unnerving task, but it can also lead to problems.

All dogs CAN and WILL bite under the right circumstance (yes, even the angelic ones with halos over their heads.) While it’s true that some dogs have a higher bite threshold than others, a time may come when that threshold lowers either because the dog is not feeling well, or because he’s cornered against a wall and his “please-stop-that” signals given to you to as a plea to not make him bite are being totally ignored.

And if say, you manage to force a pill down his throat one time and he doesn’t put up a struggle, keep in mind that things can change the next day once your dog discovers that you are trying to give him another pill. Of course, not all dogs necessarily think this way, but we can’t say that giving them a pill is something dogs enjoy, so there’s always a risk factor into play when doing things dogs don’t understand or appreciate having done.

Giving your dog bitter, bad -tasting pills can therefore potentially negatively affect your future interactions with your dog. Next time you come close to him, he may be reluctant to open his mouth (crocodile jaws, anyone?) or he may even turn his head the other way or decide to take flight and hide somewhere. A dog reluctant to having his mouth handled, often translates into difficult future veterinary exams when the mouth needs to be checked.

So what’s left to do? Keeping on trying to get your dog to swallow the bitter pill will only further convince your dog that you’re not trustworthy, making matters only worse next time the infamous pill time is around the corner. Your dog may engage in avoidance or become defensive and even bite. A better approach is therefore to rely on the “catch more flies with honey than vinegar” philosophy.

Six Options for Giving Your Dog Bad-Tasting Pills

The best option in giving your dog a bad tasting pill is to simply camouflage it with food. Your dog’s taste buds should be deceived as your dog wolfs the food down without giving his taste buds enough time to detect the bitter taste. The secret is to getting your dog to gulp the bad-tasting pill down quickly. Stanley Coren says that a dog’s taste buds that sense bitter are located on the rear part of the tongue, therefore, “a fast gulp will not register the bitter taste,” whereas, “prolonged chewing will let the bitter work its way back to where it can be tasted.” So yes, covering the pill in food is the best way to go, but if your dog has allergies, a sensitive stomach or a medical condition, ask your vet first before trying any of these foods.

1) Wrap ‘Em In Cheese

Does your dog adore cheese? If so, he’ll love these cheese balls! Before trying this option though, make sure that your dog is not prone to getting digestive problems from eating cheese or milk products and that the pills are OK to take with dairy products. This latter piece of info should be found on the medication bottle’s or the accompanying medical leaflet that comes with the medication. When in doubt, ask your vet.

Simply get a slice of cheese and wrap it around the pill, closing it tightly so it doesn’t unroll in your dog’s mouth. Even better, here’s something I came up with when I was boarding a dog whose owner provided me with cheese slices to roll up to hide her dog’s pills.

Basically, I had this slice of cheese in my hand ready to give it to the dog, when this dogs ran to the door to tell me he had to go potty. So I went out with him with the cheese in my hand and being that it was about 90 degrees outside and the dog took his sweet time to potty, the cheese started softening up to the consistency of play dough. So now, I was able to make cheese balls! I placed the pill in the middle and made a tight ball.

You can mimic my 90-degree adventure by leaving a slice of cheese out of the fridge for a bit and then warming up the sealed slice between your hands. This should the do the trick in turning the cheese into play dough consistency. Don’t feel like handling cheese? Look up “Flavordoh” for dogs.

2) Hide ‘Em in Hot Dogs

Many dogs won’t turn down hot dogs when offered and hot dog chunks are often big enough to hide the biggest capsules.

If you are concerned about sodium, look for the low-sodium variety or some of the healthier varieties.

Just as with cheese balls, it’s important to hide them well as all it takes is for the dog to detect the pill to start losing “trust” and even developing taste aversion which can lead to a dog refusing hot dogs even if he loved them all his life!

So make sure the pill doesn’t stick out of the chunk of hot dog and that the hot dog doesn’t break apart. If your dog ever happens to taste the hidden pill and all his alarm bells go off, scroll below for a few more tips on how to remedy this.

3) Hide ‘Em in Meatballs

If you’re not to eager about cheese ball or hot dogs, why not try meatballs? The best part is that you make them with different ingredients.

For instance, you can soak your dog’s kibble in water and then make a ball to hide the pill inside. You can use dog canned food as well. Dog having digestive problems? You can ask your vet about using something bland such as meat-based baby food with no onion or garlic mixed with some rice to make meatball to hide the pill.

What if you feed your dog raw food? If you feed your dog raw, you can easily make a meatball with ground meat or you can just tuck a pill into a chicken heart. For a gourmet version, you can coat the meat ball with a touch of grated cheese.

4) Go With Creamy Textures

Some creamy foods come extra handy in hiding pills as they stick well to the pill and the dog will hardly detect it, plus it’ s hard for the dog to separate the pill from these foods. And pitting the pill out is difficult when the creamy food sticks to a dog’s mouth!

What creamy foods are we talking about? Peanut butter is an option, but make sure it’s not one of these varieties which contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs. Cream cheese is another option and for dogs who love pumpkin or dogs who are constipated, plain pumpkin (not the pie variety with all the added spices) can also come handy.

Veterinarian Karen Becker also suggests using coconut oil to hide pills.

5) Make Savory Toppings

For this option, make sure you carefully read your dog’s medication label and enclosed instructions carefully as not all tablets should be crushed or capsules opened. If you’re not sure, it’s always best to consult with your vet.

If that’s fine, then you can simply sprinkle the ground tablet or content of a capsule onto your dog’s food in hopes that he’ll eat the whole concoction. This method may work with some dogs, mostly those dogs who gulp down food with no questions asked, but be aware that some finicky fellows may nit pick and separate the topping from the food, and even if you mix them throughout, you risk your dog refusing the whole meal.

Some dogs though will have no problems eating if the powder is well mixed within some tasty dog canned food. Also, it’s close to impossible separating the two once mixed!

6) Try Pill Pockets

Don’t feel like touching sticky foods or want a quick solution to conceal those pills? Pill Pockets are an option. Produced by Greenies, Pill Pockets are hollow treats sold at most veterinary offices nowadays and they come in tantalizing flavors such as chicken, peanut butter and hickory smoke. For allergic dogs, there’s even a hypoallergenic version made with duck and peas. How to use them? Simply place the pill inside the Pill Pocket, pinch it shut, and feed it to your dog. There are Pill Pockets for capsules and Pill Pockets for tablets.

Tip: have some nasty tasting pills ? You can also try inserting them into empty gel caps that are safe to use in dogs so to mask the bitter taste.

Troubleshooting Problems

OK, not always things go as planned. Your dog may be outsmarting you and you are not sure what to do next. Many dog owners have a hard time hiding pills in food, so rest assured, you’re not alone. Your dog may not eat all of the food in one sitting or the bitter medication can make the food taste bad. Don’t give up! Here are a few tips for those challenging cases. Consult with your vet if you cannot get your dog to get his pills no matter what.

What if Your Dog Discovers There’s a Pill Inside?
So your dog has been doing great taking pills and now he accidentally chewed up one and he is suspicious, carefully sniffing the food and looking at you as if saying “, Hey, who are you trying to trick?”

Here’s a way to solve the problem. Offer your dog a small piece of food WITHOUT the pill inside, just a small piece that he can sniff and see that there’s nothing inside. Let him eat it. Then, gradually give bigger and bigger pieces shaped as if there was a pill inside but always without the pill. Give them quickly in a row, praising lavishly for eating them. Then, within this series, casually offer a pill covered in the food, IMMEDIATELY followed by one without it.

Feed them one at a time as you show him the next piece coming. The secret is making him gulp the pill down in his eagerness to eat the next piece of food. Prepare these pieces in advance and lie them on a table so that you’re ready. Preferably feed them in an area away from the place where your dog discovered the bitter pill in the first place.

Another option if your dog loves catching food, is to toss the pieces of food in the air and letting him catch them with his mouth. As he’s catches the one with the pill, get his attention to another piece of food without the pill coming his way. In his eagerness to catch them and eat them, chances are, he won’t notice the pill. Some dogs will be more eager to get their “treat” if they’re asked to perform a behavior first such as doing a “sit” before being given the food-covered pill.

Did you know? According to research conducted by AAHA, the American Animal Hospital Association, the rate of compliance from dog owners giving their pets medications for chronic conditions is just 76 percent, which means an astounding 24% of pets aren’t being treated with the medications they need!

What If Your Dog is Sick and Won’t Eat?

If your dog has lost his appetite, or you need to give him a pill prior to surgery and he needs to be on an empty stomach, things can get challenging. In this latter case, ask your vet. Sometimes vets will allow you to give just a teeny piece of food if it’s only to give the pill. However, there may be pills you cannot give with food or your dog is strictly NPO (nothing by mouth). If your dog won’t eat or can’t eat, things can get more challenging.

Sure, you can always hold your dog’s muzzle upwards facing the ceiling while you quickly push the pill as back as possible while you gently massage your dog’s through to encourage him to swallow as seen in the video below, but this may not be easy with some dogs.

You can work in advance on making giving your dog pills relatively more acceptable by gradually conditioning your dog to associate a tasty treat every time you grasp and open his upper jaw. Chirag Patel of Domesticated Manners has a great video on getting dog used to having their mouth handled: Getting Ready for Vet Visit which can turn handy. Then, when the day comes to give your dog a pill, chances are, your dog may be more collaborative.

If this is your only option, make sure you praise your dog during and afterward and if your dog is healthy and active, you can even play a game with him. It’s important to ensure your dog swallows the pill, as some dogs astutely hide it in their mouth, only to spit it out later.

An alternate option is to use what’s known as a pill popper. It’s simply a syringe that delivers the pill, without the need to pry your dog’s mouth wide open to push the pill down.

Warning: If you are afraid your dog might bite you, skip this option and inform your vet! If worse comes to worse, you can always take your dog to the vet and have him or a technician administer the pill for you for a small fee. Don’t be ashamed to do so, it’s very important that your dog gets his medication! Alternatively, your vet may offer the option below if feasible.

Veterinarian Shows Different Ways to Give Dog a Pill

dog-pill Look for a Compounding Pharmacy

Wouldn’t it be great if bitter tasting pills could turn into tasty treats dogs won’t object to eating? Well, maybe it’s time to visit an apothecary! What is an apothecary? It’s simply a pharmacy that formulates and dispenses medications and specializing in compounding medications.

When working for the vet, I often referred owners of finicky cats and dogs to skilled pharmacists, and from what I heard they really did their magic. We used to refer to Pleasant Hills Apothecary back then, and they were even able to transform pills into transdermal gels that could be absorbed by the skin. Ask your vet if this is an option for you.
Wedgewood Pharmacy is a great place offering creative alternatives to bitter tasting pills. From gourmet tasting medications (Gourmeds) to medications smaller than a tic-tac® (Tiny Tabs) and melt-in-your-mouth options (Medi Melts) things are really on your side when it comes to getting compliance from your dog with these tasty options. Don’t have a compounding pharmacy near you? You can always look if your local Walmart, Walgreens or CVS pharmacy offers the Flavorx System for pets and ask your vet if the prescribed medication is eligible for that special touch…

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as substitute for professional veterinary or nutritional advice. If you need help giving your dog a pill, please consult with your vet for options.

References:

Albers J, DVM, Hardesty C.Compliance: Taking Quality Care to the Next Level, Lakewood, CO: AAHA Press; 2009:5
Psychology Today, How Good is Your Dog’s Sense of Taste, retrieved from the web on October 23rd, 2016

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Can A Litter of Puppies Have More Than One Father?

November 22, 2016October 22, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

The appearance of a single pitch-black pup in a litter of immaculate white puppies might have people wondering whether it’s possible for puppies to have more than one father. Who’s your daddy, little pup? While you won’t find puppies taking paternity tests on the Maury or Jerry Springer show to help solve a family mystery, in dogs genetics may often pitch in and provide a plausible explanation. If you’re scratching your head in disbelief wondering whether Sophie, your purebred dam messed around with some determined mutt in the neighborhood, or if you’re plain curious, read on to discover a little more about the world of canine reproduction and genetics.

Monogamy, Not a Doggy Thing

The world of animals is populated by several romantic examples of monogamy coming from beavers, otters, foxes, bats and wolves , but dogs, even though related to wolves, are far from being monogamous beings. Why is that?

While dogs and wolves share the exact same number of chromosomes (78 arranged in 39 pairs) they are quite different beings, courtesy of the thousands of years separating them. Indeed, there are more than a dozen of differences between wolves and dogs which sets them apart. Many of these differences are due to domestication. Just as with dogs now shedding for the most part year-round rather than seasonally as they used to, domestication has likely also played a role in making them more promiscuous.

What’s the purpose of being monogamous in the wild? Most likely, monogamy offers some advantage in altricial species who give birth to young that are particularly vulnerable and benefit from extra parental supervision and protection.

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This remains the most commonly accepted explanation since offspring appear to have a better chance of surviving when both parents are involved in raising them, according to Live Science.

Did you know? When it comes to being faithful, urban coyotes win the title as most loyal partner. According to a study conducted by scientists with Colorado State University, “coyotes living in cities don’t ever stray from their mates, and stay with each other till death do them part.”

Wolf Versus Domestic Dog

According to Steven Lindsey, wolves tend to reach sexual maturity at around 22 months. Wolves are monogamous and females go into heat only once a year during peak breeding season giving birth to pups when the rigors of the winter are over.

When the wolf pups are born, they are in a helpless, underdeveloped state and are raised in their maternal dens so they are safe from predators.

Helping raise the pups is a family affair that involves the older siblings, aunts, and uncles and also the pups’ father. Since the pups are too young and vulnerable to venture out of their dens, it’s the job of dad and extended family to bring back to the pups tasty meals of regurgitated meat, according to The Field Museum.

When it comes to dogs though, things are quite different. Dogs are polygamous and female dogs can go into heat between 6 and 12 months of age and for the most part bi-annually (the basenji is an exception) pretty much at any time of the year. Female dogs are often willing to mate with multiple partners, given the opportunity. And when the puppies are born, they are raised in comfy, temperature-controlled whelping boxes. Dog owners have replaced the extended family that a dog’s ancestors relied on and are readily available for assistance. For many years, indeed dog owners have assisted with the whelping process, taking care of struggling pups and, instead of regurgitating food, weaning pups are provided with a nice bowl of puppy mush! How’s that for convenience?

“Wolves breed only once a year, during the winter months so the pups will be born in the spring, when food is plentiful and the weather less severe. The season begins in late December and proceeds until late February or early March.”~Wolf Education and Research Center

The Making of A Multi-Sired Litter

So we know for a fact that dogs are polygamous. Indeed, for centuries, humans have been selectively breeding male dogs with multiple females and females with multiple males. With females, though things can get tricky, so for those folks professionally breeding, it’s best to let them breed with only one particular male during a heat cycle and then keep’em under strict supervision as accidents have been known to happen even under the nose of the most observant and responsible breeders.

If allowed to breed with multiple males, a female dog may therefore give life to what’s known as a multi-sired litter or dual-sired litter. Here’s a little sneak peak into what happens.

When a female is in heat, she produces several ova (eggs) that are readily available to be fertilized for several days. Since one ovum (egg) and one sperm is all it takes to make an embryo and ova are released over a 24 hour time span, Sophie can have some eggs fertilized by Romeo and then some others fertilized by Homer, giving life to a litter of pups fathered by different dogs. So yes, puppies can have more than one father, meaning that within the same litter, some puppies may be sired by one male while the rest may be sired by another, but never both.

It can therefore be quite upsetting for a breeder, who paid a nice amount of money for stud services (so that Princess the purebred poodle could be mated with handsome Happy jack, a multi-champion poodle) to discover that Scruffy the neighbor’s mutt was able to breed with Princess a day later when she escaped the yard. The breeder may therefore not be too enthusiastic when he discovers 63 days that Princess gave birth to a part purebred, part mixed-bred litter!

The Truth Comes Out

If you really need to know whether you’re dealing with a multi-sired litter, you can skip all the drama associated with a lie detector test and instead invest in a good dog DNA testing kit for dogs which should be able to tell you whether your female dog had an “affair” with more than one dog. Some DNA test should be also helpful in matching up the DNA of a particular puppy with the DNA of a suspected biological father. With this proof in hand, you can therefore register a multi-sired litter and provide the proof to any buyers.

Did you know? Some breeders purposely breed their female dog to two different studs either because of poor-quality or low sperm count or so to attain more genetic diversity without having to breed too many times. These multi-sired litters can even be registered with the American Kennel Club under “Multi-sired litter registration” as long as both parent dogs are purebred breeds and all criteria are met including proof of parentage determined through the AKC’s DNA Profile Program.

References:

The Field Museum, Dedicated Animal Dads That Care for Their Young, retrieved from the web on October 22nd, 2016
International Wolf Center, Wolf Families. retrieved from the web on October 22nd, 2016
American Kennel Club, Stud Double, retrieved from the web on October 22nd, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Petful, Bride and Groom Dogs, CCBY2.0
Sally Wehner, DSC04988 CCBY2.0

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Interesting Facts About Dog Grooming

October 21, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Dogs are often brushed, combed and taken to grooming salons, but dog lovers may often miss out learning some interesting facts about dog grooming. A dog’s fur is made of keratin, the same protein that’s also present in hair, feathers, hoofs, claws and horns. Since dogs come in so many different shapes and sizes, it’s normal that they also have different types of coats which need different types of care. We may assume that dog grooming is just to for cosmetic appeal, but in reality, it has to do with health, and a whole lot too! Here are some fascinating facts about dog grooming that’ll hopefully help quench your thirst for canine knowledge and alongside help you discover something new too!

Dog Fur Grows in Stages…

Did you know? Just like in people, a dog’s coat tends to grow in stages and different hairs are in different stages. This is a good thing, because if the hair follicles were all in the same phase at the same time, people and dogs would quickly become bald! Let’s take a closer look at these stages of dog hair growth.

The anagen stage is what takes place when your dog’s fur is actively growing. The catagen stage is an intermediate transitional stage that signals the end of the active growth stage, meaning that the fur has reached its genetically determined length. The telogen stage is the resting, dormant stage during which nothing really happens, and finally there’s the exogen stage when dog owners start to despair as dog’s coat start actively shedding…a lot.

The University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine tells us that most dogs’ coats are for the most part in a telogen-predominant cycle. The anagen stage is brief, and once the coat reaches its genetically determined length, it cycles into the telogen stage until it dies, falling off the dog and right onto the floor, clothing and furniture.

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Because the coats of these dogs move rapidly to the dying and falling off stage, they are therefore shedding quite often, more than many dog owners may expect.

And Yes, Shedding is a Year-Round Affair

Many dog owners are frustrated when they notice that their dogs aren’t the “seasonal shedders” as they thought, but rather shed their coats all year long.

“Shouldn’t Fluffy be shedding her winter and summer coat just twice a year?”

Nope, this may have been true in the old days when dogs lived outdoors all the time and were subjected to a variety of seasonal temperature variations, points out Billy Rafferty an award-winning pet stylist and Certified Master Groomer in the book “Happy Dog: Caring for Your Dog’s Body, Mind and Spirit.”

The temperature-controlled environments most domestic dogs are subjected to live in nowadays has therefore managed to fool Mother Nature causing changes to their natural shedding patterns.

“Unless Fido is planning on taking frequent extended vacations in Antarctica to live with a pod of wild elephant seals, he will not experience true seasonal shedding.”~Billy Rafferty, Jill Cahr.

Some Dogs Grow “Hair “Instead of Fur..

Did you know? Some dogs have “hair” instead of fur. There is technically no difference in composition between hair and fur, so what makes these dogs so different?

It’s ultimately a matter of the pattern of growth. Hair in these dogs doesn’t shed like in other dogs because their hairs have a longer growing cycle (anagen phase). So the hair keeps on growing until it either dies or is cut, further explains Bill Rafferty.

As much as this sounds like good news, (less shedding anyone?), it has its own downside. Since the hair keeps growing, instead of most of it making it to the ground like normal dog fur would, it ends up getting trapped within the coat, intertwining with other hairs.

The outcome? A predisposition for paving the path to tangled and matted messes if these dogs are not routinely brushed and clipped. So the money you may save in lint rollers, you end up spending at the grooming salon.

What dog breeds have “hair” instead of fur? Here is a brief list: bearded collies, Lhasa apsos, coton de Tulear, Havanese, Tibetan terriers, Maltese, shih tzus and Yorkshire terriers. These are just a few of several dog breeds with hair instead of fur.

But Matted Hair is a Big Problem…

All dogs need regular grooming but as mentioned, some dogs need this more frequently than others to prevent annoying tangling and matting.

Mats are densely tangled clumps of hair that are not only unsightly, but painful and even dangerous too!

First of all, matted hair is difficult to comb, and dogs may start associating your grooming with pain, up until the point they may try to wiggle away or even get defensive. You don’t want this to happen!

Secondly, matted hair traps moisture which can lead to severe inflammation and even skin infections triggered by bacteria and yeast entities that thrive in such an environment.

In very severe cases, matted hair can cut off blood supply to extremities, cause a fecal impaction, or even cause fly larvae such as maggots to inhabit the dog’s skin.

And third, in order to remove tight mats things get quite delicate, a groomer will need to use a very low blade to get under the mat and cut it off and this can lead to razor burns, serious skin irritation or even a serious cut should the dog move at the wrong moment, according to Best in Show Grooming Salon. For this reason, many grooming salons will not accepted severely matted dogs, but would rather refer to a veterinary practice.

And So Are Ear Hematomas…

Sometimes mats may form over a dog’s ears, and these can cause complications after being removed.

Mats restrict blood flow and after having the mats removed from the ears, a quick rush of blood will reach the vessels, and since the tissue has weakened, it can cause “bleeding out,” explains Debi Hilley, a former competitive groomer in her blog.

Sometimes, after being groomed, getting the ears cleaned or having hairs of the ears plucked out, dogs may feel compelled to shake their head. Excessive shaking may cause what’s known as an “ear hematoma” the swelling of the dog’s ear flaps from filling up with blood.

To prevent this, Best in Show Grooming Salon suggests for small dogs, cutting the end off of a sock and putting it over the dog’s ears in a hoodie-like fashion, just tight enough to prevent the dog’s ears from flapping, but loose enough, that the dog can move around comfortably. Alternatively, owners may invest in what groomers use: a product known as a “Happy Hoodie”

“In the case of pets with heavy matting removed from the ears, it is not uncommon for the pet to shake the head so aggressively as to cause the formation of hematomas (bleeding bruises) at the edges of the ear flaps. This happens frequently in cocker spaniels and other breeds with drop ears.”~Town and Country Veterinary Care

Seeing the Groomer Can Be Stressful…

Let’s face it: a trip to the groomer can be a stressful event for many dogs. It’s often inevitable for some level of unpleasantness to be associated with those visits. Baths, nail trims, blow dryers, noisy clippers, proximity to other dogs or people, being handled, restraint and the mere fact of being in a place away from home and separated from their families, all may play a role.

According to findings from a study, the grooming shop can be stressful for dogs for the entire duration of the grooming session but also during the the arrival up until the exit.

It’s therefore, for a good part, the responsibility of staff at grooming facilities to take extra care in minimizing the stress from these visits. There are several things grooming staff can do to make visits less stressful such as giving arriving dogs a cookie (with the owner’s permission) and letting the dog approach them first rather than the other way around, suggest Daniel Estep, Ph.D. and Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D. in an article for the Rocky Mountain News.

But There are Many Things Dog Owners Can Do

Dog owners can take a proactive approach to making those visits to the groomer more pleasant. For instance, stopping by the salon frequently just for getting treats by the staff, may help dogs familiarize themselves with the place and people. These “mock” visits are to create positive associations.

If your dog already is uncomfortable going to the groomer, these visits may help “compensate” the dog’s negative prediction of being dropped off there or having something unpleasant done. The action of entering the salon can also be put on a positive cue, such as saying in an upbeat tone “let’s visit our friends!”

Most of all, dog owners can take a proactive approach by recognizing what components of the grooming session triggers the most anxiety. Is it the car ride? Is it being around strangers? Is it being touched in certain areas? Do certain noises make him anxious? Does your dog hate the slippery table? Tip: a non-slip mat may help. Once recognized the stimulus or stimuli that cause stress, dog owners can then help their dogs better tolerate them by letting the dog associate them with tasty treats.

For example, if your dog doesn’t like to have his ears handled, start touching him in an area nearby that he doesn’t mind much, and pair a cue, like “ears,” with the gentle touch in that area giving a tasty treat during and then immediately after handling the area. Then, start gradually moving more and more towards the ear area, taking a step back in the process if the dog ever appears uncomfortable. Of course, use caution, if your dog ever seems defensive, avoid doing this and consult with a behavior professional.

There are also several calming aids that can help dogs relax more during these visits. DAP collars, the Happy Hoodie, Thunder Cap, not to mention natural calming supplements that your vet may recommend. Also,it might be useful to train your dog to accept wearing a muzzle, that way, he’ll readily comply if the needs for wearing one at the vet or groomer ever arises.

References:

The University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine, What do we know about the hair cycle in dogs? retrieved from the web on Oct 21st, 2016.
Pet Education, Skin & Hair Anatomy & Function in Dogs, retrieved from the web on Oct 21st, 2016.
Evaluation of dog welfare before and after a professional grooming session Chiara Mariti 1, *, Scighei Bein2 1 Department of Veterinary Science, University of Pisa – Italy 2

Photo Credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, Arpit Gupt, it’s going to be hairy few months, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Kathy Junk Yard dog, I felt sorry for this guy his fur was so matted. CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, maplegirlie, IMG_1379[1] CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Barry Dog Groomer CCBY2.0

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Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Fish, Acetone, Ammonia Etc.

October 22, 2016October 20, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Most people are aware of the fact that dogs can use their powerful sniffers to detect serious diseases in humans such as diabetes and even cancer, but not many dog owners are aware of the fact that they can also put their noses to work and return the favor when a dog’s breath smells weird. Sure, our noses aren’t sensitive enough to detect diseases at their earliest stages like dogs do, but we surely can identify signs of illnesses in our dogs if we are attentive enough and don’t fall into the trap of chalking them up as “normal canine odors.” Following are several odors in dog breath owners may detect that should warrant an emergency vet visit in the most serious cases, or at the most, a veterinary check-up to ensure everything is fine in the health department.

What Does Normal Dog Breath Smell Like?

First, what does normal dog breath smell like? This is a very good question. Usually, normal dog breath doesn’t have a particular odor. Just as in people, a healthy mouth shouldn’t give off any particularly strong odors.

Many dog owners indeed, notice quite a difference after their dogs go in for a dental cleaning, as suddenly, all the bad odors are gone.

It’s a common myth that bad breath in dogs is normal, so much so that it has even been given a nickname: “doggy breath.”

This misconception is so widespread that Greenies, a company that makes dental treats for dogs, found that 28 million owners believe that it’s normal for their pets to have bad breath!

So yes, if your dog has bad breath it’s not normal! Don’t fall into the trap of thinking all dog breath has an odor.

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“Bad breath is a sure sign of significant oral infection and, while there are other causes, periodontal disease is by far the number 1 cause of halitosis.” ~Dr. Brook A. Niemiec, a board-certified veterinary dentist.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Fish?

Unless your dog had sardines for dinner or you mistakenly brushed his teeth with anchovy paste rather than his regular toothpaste, there should really be no reason for you dog’s breath to smell like fish.

Yet, your dog’s breath undoubtedly smells like shrimp or rotten fish, what’s going on?

One may understand if you recently fed your dog some fish pills, or some fish meal or salmon-based kibble, but if that’s not the case, you may still be scratching your head wondering where in the world that fish smell is coming from.Well, here’s a possibility…and it involves..ehm.. the opposite end.

Dogs have two glands called anal glands that are located around the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock position around the rectum. Sometimes these anal glands produce a secretion that has a strong fishy odor.

If these glands happen to be impacted, or infected, dogs will lick their bottoms and therefore the fishy smell of these glands will transfer to the dog’s mouth, explains veterinarian Dr. Rebecca.

Course of action: normally, a dog’s anal glands should empty on their own when dogs pass feces, but if the dog produces soft stools, the anal glands may become full and uncomfortable. It’s best to have the dog’s anal glands checked by a vet to rule out any problems. Anal gland problems in dogs can cause discomfort, and repeated licking and scooting are often signs of trouble. Sometimes, dogs may require the vet to empty those glands which is very minor and quick procedure.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Acetone?

If your dog’s breath smells like nail polish remover, you may wonder where that smell comes from. No, dogs don’t paint their nails unless we subject them to that, and they won’t be using any nail polish remover. Instead, the issue can be quite serious.

A dog’s breath that smells like acetone can actually be indicative of diabetes. When a dog has diabetes, his body lacks insulin necessary to break down sugar as it’s supposed to. Since the body needs sugar as a source of energy, it will therefore move on to plan B to get the fuel it needs and this entails breaking down fat as an alternative.

When fat is metabolized, ketones are produced and one of the ketones is acetone. Since it’s a volatile compound, it can be excreted by the lungs, hence why a dog’s breath may smell like acetone or nail polish remover. Some dog owners describe their dog’s breath smelling like rubbing alcohol, pear drop candies or chemicals.

Course of action: dog owners need to be aware of a complication of diabetes known as diabetic ketoacidosis. Diabetic ketoacidosis in dogs typically causes symptoms of increased thirst, increased urination, weight loss, sudden blindness, vomiting, weakness, dehydration and breath that smells like acetone, explains veterinarian Dr. Debra Primovic. Affected dogs require prompt IV fluid therapy to stabilize them and insulin around the clock to get that blood sugar under control. So yes, see the vet ASAP.

“In these cases, animals in this state tend to need emergency care. Often we can stabilize them with IV fluid therapy, insulin, and by treating the GI signs as well. I must note that when we treat these cases in DKA, their prognosis is very guarded and the longer left in this stage the poorer that prognosis for survival becomes.” ~Dr. B.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Ammonia?

At times, dog owners may notice an odor similar to ammonia in their dog’s breath. Some dog owners describe their dog’s breath as smelling like urine.

Kidney problems have been known for causing an ammonia smell in both the breath of dogs and humans, but what causes this smell in the first place?

An ammonia-like smell in a dog’s breath can be indicative of the kidneys not removing toxins as they normally should. This causes urea levels to increase and since urea is converted to ammonia, that explains why it gives the terrible breath, explains veterinarian Dr. Gabby.

“The ammonia breath is something we can see with dogs that are in kidney failure. The ammonia is not excreted in the urine, so they end up having to breath it out to help get rid of it.”~Dr. Gary

Course of action: Kidney problems need to be addressed early as possible as things can progress quickly. Affected dogs usually show other symptoms on top of the urine-smelling breath such as loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, fever, increased or decreased urination and inflammation of the tongue. Best to get blood work done ASAP, suggests Dr. Gary.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Trash/Sewer?

Dog owners may get quite creative when it comes to describing the foul odor coming from a dog’s mouth.” My dog’s breath smells like trash”, “my dog’s breath smells like rotten garbage’, and one of our favorites: “my dog’s breath smells like sewer or roadkill.” Regardless of how you describe it, it just means your dog’s breath is terribly foul. And no, Rover didn’t likely go dumpster diving in the middle of the night, as the fellows in the picture did!

Often, a rotten, foul breath in dogs can be indicative of severe periodontal disease, the deterioration of a dog’s gums which can progress to inflammation, infection and even tooth loss.

A tooth abscess or presence of an oral tumor can also contribute to dog breath with a sickening smell. “Don’t just chalk it up to doggie breath,” says veterinarian Dr. Berg.

Course of Action: take you dog to the vet for a thorough check-up. Ongoing studies estimate that about 90 percent of dogs have some level of periodontal disease by the age of one, according to Today’s Veterinary Practice. Therefore the older the dog, the higher the chances for a great level of disease going on. While oral tumors aren’t as common, they are often missed by dog owners as they’re often in the back of the dog’s mouth, in hard to inspect areas. Also, not always bad breath comes from the mouth, it can come from any part of the dog’s upper digestive tract, which can be concerning and worthy of having checked out.

The Bottom Line

As seen, dogs may develop bad breath for several reasons. If you know what your dog’s normal breath smells like (such as right after getting a dental cleaning) then you have a baseline that helps you readily recognize abnormal odors from your dog’s mouth which may be attributed to potential health problems.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has bad breath or you notice an unusual odor, please see your vet for advice and treatment.

References:

Veterinary Practice News, Debunking Common Myths About Periodontal Disease, retrieved from the web on October 20, 2016
Fiorellini JP, Ishikawa SO, Kim DM. Clinical features of gingivitis. Carranza’s Clinical Periodontology. St. Louis: WB Saunders, 2006, pp 362-372.
Meitner SW, Zander H, Iker HP, et al. Identification of inflamed gingival surfaces. J Clin Periodontol 1979; 6:93.
Tufts Your Dog, Clues to Your Dog’s Health Can Be Just a Whiff Away, retrieved from the web on October 20th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, USFWS Fish and Aquatic Conservation, CCBY.20
Flickr, Creative Commons, Don Hankins, Boston Terrier Pedicure, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, OakleyOriginals, Trash Dogs, CCBY2.0

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Dog Word of the Day: Microchip

October 23, 2016October 19, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Technology today has advanced quite a lot and it’s not surprising if the use of identifying integrated circuits through the use of a microchip has involved dogs. Microchips, implanted for the purpose of reducing the number of lost dogs, has become a quite popular practice nowadays, but it’s important to know several facts about microchipping dogs such as the how microchip work, whether they are painful to implant, how much they cost, what to do when you must change address and any dangers associated with microchip implantation in dogs.

How Dog Microchip Work

Microchip basically consist of an identifying integrated circuit that’s implanted under the dog’s skin. A microchip uses what’s known as passive Radio Frequency Identification technology (RFID).

What does a dog microchip look like? The chip is about the size of a grain of rice and is enclosed in bio-compatible glass. It’s small enough to fit through a hollow hypodermic needle.

Typically, microchip are implanted between the dog’s shoulder blades by a veterinarian using a syringe as when giving a vaccination. However, instead of injecting antigens, the hollow needle, which is larger than the average needle used for vaccines, implants the chip.

The chip contains a unique ID number encoded into its integrated circuit. It is meant to be scanned through a handheld microchip scanner which animal control officers, shelters and veterinary offices carry.

When the chip is scanned, it reveals the identification number and the phone number of the registry for the particular brand of chip, as long as the dog owner correctly registered the dog with the chip manufacturer, distributor or pet recovery service.

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Did you know? Registering the dog is the most important step in the microchip process. Failure to register a dog with a microchip means that should the dog get lost, the shelter may not be able to trace the dog back to his owners. A chip without contact information is basically useless, yet some people forget to do this!

Handheld Scanner Concerns

Something to be aware of is that sometimes, for some reason or another, certain scanners may not be able to properly read certain microchip.

Microchip are inert objects that are only activated by a certain radio frequency broadcast by the scanner. The scanner must therefore send a specific radio signal of a certain frequency to read the chip

If that radio frequency doesn’t match the specific frequency of radio wave necessary to activate the microchip, the scanner won’t read it.

While today, more and more microchip manufacturers are trying to craft their microchip in such a way to that all scanners can read them (e.g universal scanners), some can only be read by specific scanners, which can create problems.

For example, some scanners may only detect 134.2 kHz ISO standard microchips, but might not detect the 125 kHz or 128 kHz non-ISO standard microchips. Fortunately though, most microchips can be read after trying different scanners.

“I can think of a couple of cases over my career where the client said they had a microchip and I couldn’t find it with my universal scanner. In those cases I recommended going back to the shelter or vet who implanted the chip and have them scan it with one of their scanners.” ~Dr. Chris Bern

warning caution Did you know? Microchips are not foolproof, sometimes they aren’t read well because of incorrect scanning technique, presence of matted hair covering the chip, excess body fat and a collar with a lot of metal interfering, warns veterinarian Dr. Mary Fuller.

Dog Microchip Health Concerns

As with anything “foreign” item introduced to a dog’s body, there are chances the microchip may be “rejected” or that it may cause trouble.

Both in humans and dogs, there are chances that the immune system may react to metals and other inorganic materials.

A series of studies published between 1996 and 2006, found a potential link between implanted microchips and cancer in laboratory animals. The research found that between 1 and 10 percent of microchipped mice and rat developed fast-growing sarcomas, fibrosarcomas, and other invasive cancers closeby or around the microchip.

In dogs, there have been two confirmed cases of cancer developing from microchip implants. While these are small statistics, they are worth considering and it’s important to balance out the chances of possibly losing a pet from escape versus possibly losing a pet to cancer. The WSAVA Microchip Committee came to the conclusion that the benefits of microchip outweighs the potential health risks.¹

“The evidence does suggest some reason to be concerned about tumor formations.”~Dr. Chand Khanna, veterinary oncologist.

Dog Microchip Pain

Does microchip implantation hurt? We found several websites say that it hurts no more than a vaccination, but we think this varies on an individual basis.

As people, dogs have different pain tolerance levels. For instance, one of our dogs yelped in pain when the microchip was implanted, while our other didn’t even notice it.

According to Chewelah Veterinary Clinic, a 12 to 14 gauge needle is used for microchip implantation which is roughly the size of a belly button ring piercing.

What options do dog owners have if they are concerned about pain? They can ask for a local anesthetic or they can alternatively have the implantation done while the dog is under anesthesia such as a during a spay or neuter surgery or dental cleaning.

“At my practice we would never even consider microchipping without some local anesthetic… No matter what you have been told, the procedure hurts — the chip is inserted with a really big 12-gauge needle!”~Dr. Karen Becker

Things to Consider

While a microchip can work wonders for re-uniting a lost dog to his family, it’s still important for the dog to wear his collar and ID tags. Why is that? For the simple fact that most people do not have a handheld scanner to find your contact information. So unless, they bring the dog to a shelter or veterinarian, they may never know who the dog belongs to.

The first thing most people do when they find a lost dog is to check the collar and tags. If your dog wears a collar and tags with information on it, you’re more likely to get a phone call from people who have found him rather than taking him to the shelter. It might also be a good idea to have the dog wear a tag with the chip number and registry phone number, just in case.

What happens to your dog’s microchip if you must move? In that case, you will need to update your contact information by contacting the chip manufacturer, distributor or registry. Usually, this is done for a fee so that they can process the new information.

Did you know? Microchip have a tendency to occasionally “migrate” moving to other areas of the dog’s body away from the original implantation site. For this reason, it’s important to pass the scanner all over the dog’s body so to detect it.

The Bottom Line

Every year, thousands of dogs are lost and many are not re-united with their owners. When dogs without ID tags or microchip end up in a shelter, they risk being adopted out or even euthanized, if they cannot be traced back to their owners in a timely matter, points out veterinarian Dr. Concannon..

Also, should a dog escape and get hit by a car and a good Samaritan brings the dog to a vet, the microchip’s information may allow veterinarians to get in touch with the owners quickly for approval of life-saving procedures such as emergency surgery.

Microchip are ultimately the best form of identification presently available. They stay in place for the life of the dog while collars and tags can eventually come off or be lost.They don’t require a surgical procedure to implant and are also fairly cheap to implant. The average microchip implantation for dogs costs between 25 and 50 dollars with the registration generally ranging from 30 to 45 dollars. Some shelters offer free microchip implantation when a pet is adopted.

While a microchip does not have GPS capability to locate a missing pet, as of today, microchips remain the best option for re-uniting dogs with their beloved owners. It’s up to dog owners therefore to make an informed decision about whether it’s something they want to consider.

References

Todd Lewan, “Chip Implants Linked to Animal Tumors.” Associated Press. September 8, 2007.
Blanchard, KT, et al. “Transponder-induced sarcoma in the heterozygous p53+/- mouse.” Toxicologic Pathology. 1999;
Tillmann, T, et al. “Subcutaneous soft tissue tumours at the site of implanted microchips in mice.” Experimental and Toxicologic Pathology. 1997;49:197200.
Albrecht, K. “Microchip-Induced Tumors in Laboratory Rodents and Dogs: A Review of the Literature 1990-2006.”
Microchip Implants, Answers to Frequently Asked Questions, Katherine Albrecht, retrieved from the web on October 19th, 2016
Microchip-Induced Tumors in Laboratory Rodents and Dogs: A Review of the Literature 1990–2006, Katherine Albrecht retrieved from the web on October 19th, 2016
World Small Animal Veterinary Association, WSAVA microchip survey results – Nov. 2002

Photo Credits:

An RFID chip (also known as PIT tag) next to a grain of rice. No machine-readable author provided. Light Warrior assumed (based on copyright claims). – No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims). Public Domain
Example of an RFID scanner used with animal microchip implants.Oscar111 -RFID scanner Public Domain
A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

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What Dog Breed is Nicknamed the Grey Ghost?

October 19, 2016October 18, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

ghost-dog There are many dog breeds that come with cute nicknames, and there is one dog breed in particular that is known as the “grey ghost.”

Is this dog breed called this way because it has the mind of Houdini, appearing and disappearing in the blink of an eye?

Is there some sort of mysterious ghostly legend surrounding this dog breed?

Or perhaps, does this dog breed have some characteristic that makes it resemble somewhat a grey ghost?

With Halloween around the corner, we thought to dedicate this trivia to the dog breed affectionately referred to as the “grey ghost” so can you guess today’s trivia question?

Which dog breed is nicknamed the “grey ghost?” Is it:

A The Weimaraner

B The Irish Wolfhound

C The Italian Greyhound

D The Siberian Husky

The Correct Answer is: Drum Roll Please…

drum

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The Correct Answer is A, the Weimaraner.

Why are Weimaraners Nicknamed the Grey Ghost?

The Weimaraner dog breed dates back to the 19th century when they made prized hunting dogs for the Nobles of Weimar, a city in Thuringia, Germany. Back then, Weims were used to hunt down a variety of big game including deer, wolves and bear. When Germany’s forests though started thinning out in the latter half on the century, big game started becoming more and more scarce, and therefore these versatile dogs were converted into successful bird dogs who also came handy for hunting down the occasional rabbit or fox. Today, Weims make loyal companions who thrive in homes that can provide them all the exercise and all mental stimulation they crave.

So why are Weimaraners called Grey Ghosts? Here are three good reasons.

1) That Ghostly Coat

Also known as the silver ghost, the Weimaraner has attained his ghost nickname from the appearance of the coat.

The coat of the Weimaraner indeed is of a ghostly grey, that reminds people of ghosts. This grey color of the coat is indeed a staple of the breed, one of the traits that makes it easily recognizable.

According to the American Kennel Club, standard, the Weimaraner comes in a coat that that is short, smooth and sleek ranging from mouse-grey to silver grey.

And gray it must be….Only a white spot on the chest is permitted and any presence of a distinctly blue or black coat is means for disqualification.

2) Those Ghostly Eyes

OK, let’s face it, a Weimarener’s spooky looking eyes also play a role in this breed ghost-like reputation.

Indeed, this dog breed has some unique colored eyes that are rarely seen in other dogs. The American Kennel Club depicts them as having “shades of light amber, gray or blue-gray.”

Another interesting characteristic that makes these dogs even more “spooky” is the fact that when the pupils are dilated in this breed as when he’s excited “the eyes may appear almost black” as explained in the American Kennel Club breed standard.

3) That Stealthy Hunter

Another trait of the Weimaraner that’s ghost-like, is this breed’s hunting style. Hunters describe the Weimaraner as being “stealthy and catlike.”

Weimaraners belong to the category of hunt, point and retrieve gun dog breeds, all-around dogs who are particularly versatile in getting all the job done.

The American Kennel Club describes Weimaraners as dogs blessed with grace, speed, stamina and alertness who tend to work with great speed and endurance in the field. When it comes to gait, these dogs move around effortlessly with smooth coordination.

Did you know? Weimaraners tend to bond a whole lot with their owners, following them around like shadows and sometimes even to the point of developing separation anxiety. This has granted them a second nickname: “The Velcro Dogs.”

References:

American Kennel Club, The Weimaraner Breed Standard, retrieved from the web on October 18th, 2016
Weimaraner Club of America, Brief History of the Weimaraner Breed, retrieved from the web on October 18th, 2016

Photo Credit:

Flickr, Creative Commons, wakefielddavid, Ghost Dogs CCBY2.0

I am Your Dog’s Salivary Glands

December 30, 2016October 17, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

You might have never given your dog’s salivary glands much thought, but these structures have likely proven to you many times that they’re working, and quite efficiently too! Whether your dog drools because he’s hungry or because he’s getting a bit queasy during a car ride, that’s proof that his salivary glands are doing their job. As with many other structures of a dog’s body, the salivary glands carry out several functions and can also be prone to several problems. So today, let’s discover more about a dog’s salivary glands, the roles they play and conditions that affect them.

Introducing Your Dog’s Salivary Glands

Hello, it’s your dog’s salivary glands talking! We’re talking plural here because there are several of us populating your dog’s body, more specifically, we’re mostly located by your dog’s upper and lower jaw.

We are found in matching pairs, meaning that there are two of us of each side of your dog’s face and we consist of the following: 2 zygomatic glands, by the cheek bone near the dog’s eyes, 2 parotid glands where the head meets the neck, 2 sublingual glands right under the dog’s tongue and 2 mandibular glands, by the dog’s lower jaw.

We are exocrine glands meaning that we release fluids through special ducts. The special fluid we release, as our name implies, is saliva which is delivered from each of our ducts straight to your dog’s mouth.

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Did you know? As Russian physiologist Ivan Pavlov demonstrated, higher centers of the dog’s brain are capable of eliciting the parasympathetic response of drooling in anticipation of food.

We Help With Moisture

We help keep your dog’s mouth nice and moist. A dry mouth can mean trouble when it comes to the proliferation of harmful bacteria. A moist mouth instead is the perfect recipe for a healthy mouth. Indeed, the saliva we produce is quite rich in antibacterial substances that helps keep the number of bacteria down.

You might not be aware of this, but here’s a little hint: the level of moisture of your dog’s mouth can help you assess your dog’s level of hydration. A healthy dog who is well-hydrated will have gums that feel nicely moist, while a dog who is dehydrated will have gums that feel sticky, tacky and dry.

The saliva we produce also helps lubricate the passage of chewed-up food from the mouth through the esophagus and then all the way down to the dog’s stomach. The blob of chewed up food is known as “bolus” and the more slippery it is, the easier it will slide down without causing damage.

Did you know? A 20 kilogram dog (around 44 pounds) is capable of producing anywhere between a half a liter up to 1 liter of saliva a day! The amount is usually higher in dogs who are fed dry foods.

We Aid Digestion

Have you ever heard the saying “the digestive process starts in the mouth?” This applies to dogs too. Indeed, we start the digestion process by breaking down some components found in your dog’s food. As dogs chew, saliva indeed helps break down starch into individual sugar molecules, explains veterinarian Race Foster.

Not all of us though produce the same type of saliva. According to Dukes’ Physiology of Domestic Animals, secretions from us may vary from watery to a thicker, mucoid-like consistency.

The parotid glands, for instance, produce a watery saliva rich in amylase, which is what helps dog digest starch.

The sublingual glands, on the other hand, produce a mucus-type of saliva rich in mucin, which helps the bolus travel from the mouth to the stomach.

Did you know? Your dog’s salivary glands also increase salivation when there are irritating substances in the mouth and when your dog is anxious.

We Provide Evaporative Cooling

Dogs do not cool down primarily through their skin like humans do, but their main way of cooling off is by panting. You might not know this, but we can play a role in helping dogs cool down too. The saliva we produce indeed, can help Rover cool down when those temperatures soar in the dog days of summer.

You see, when your dog has his mouth open and breaths quickly after romping in the yard on a warm summer day, the moist surfaces of his mouth and tongue help cool him down by increasing evaporation.

If you take a close look at a dog panting after a long run, you will get a better picture how the saliva we produce help him cool down.

When Things Go Wrong

As with other structures of your dog’s body, we are prone to problems, which sometimes can be even quite urgent. We can become inflamed, we can be subject to injuries and we can also be affected by cancer sometimes, although not commonly. Here is a brief rundown of several salivary gland problems in dogs.

Salivary Mucocele in Dogs

If our duct happens to get damaged and rupture, we may develop what’s known as a salivary mucocele. When this happens, the saliva must drain somewhere and this often leads to soft (and often quite large!) swellings seen by the dog’s neck and face. We may also cause presence of blood in the dog’s saliva, trouble swallowing and sometimes eye pain or trouble breathing.

Mucocele in dogs can be caused by infections, tumors or a foreign bodies stuck in the duct (sialolithiasis). Depending on which one of us are affected, the mucocele may be given different names.

A Zygomatic mucocele affects the zygomatic salivary glands and saliva in this case tends to collects around the eye area. If the area swells too much, it can trigger exophthalmos, a protrusion of the dog’s eyeball. Surgical removal of these glands may be more complicated due to the presence of ocular glands nearby and is best done by a specialist.

A Cervical mucocele tends to form a swelling by the upper area of the dog’s neck and/or under the jaw. These should not be confused with reactive lymph glands or lymphoma, cancer of the dog’s lymph glands.

A Pharyngeal mucocele may form by the dog’s pharynx causing swelling that may impair a dog’s ability to breath and can therefore require urgent veterinary care.

A Sublingual mucocele forms under the dog’s tongue, When a dog’s lingual glands are injured, a swelling in the floor of the dog’s mouth, right under the tongue, forms. A mucocele under the dog’s tongue is commonlhy called a ranula.

Mucocele are often treated by draining and removing the affected glands. Drainage alone is not resolutive considering that mucocele tend to re-occur several weeks or months later. How much does surgery to remove us cost? Cost tends to vary from one place and another and is also based on the location of the swollen gland and how enlarged it is. Prices for salivary gland removal in dogs may therefore range between 500 and 1,500 dollars.

Did you know? The copious salivation seen in rabid animals is not due to the overproduction of saliva, but the paralysis of the dog’s pharynx, causing excess saliva to build up. Source: Colorado State University.

Other Conditions

On top of mucocele and ranula, we may be affected from several other conditions such as salivary gland fistula, sialadenitis, (the inflammation of the salivary gland with the zygomatic gland most commonly affected) and sialadenosis, (a non-inflammatory swelling of the salivary glands.)

While cancer of the salivary glands is not very common, when it occurs, the dog’s submandibular and parotid glands tend to be the most likely affected.

The Bottom Line

Figuring out whether we are swollen because of a mucocele, fistula, tumor or other cause, is not always straightforward. Bloodwork doesn’t typically show any high white blood cell unless there is a major infection going on.

Diagnosis is most often obtained through the dog’s medical history and results from aspirating the fluid within us though a fine needle aspirate. For instance, mucocele aspirates are often typically characterized by thick, ropy fluid that may have blood or a yellowish tint. A correct diagnosis is crucial because right where we are located, are also found a dog’s submandibular lymph nodes which may swell when a dog has lymphoma, explains veterinarian Dr. Andy. So make sure you see your vet if you notice any problems with us. Your dog and us will thank you!

Yours Truly,

Your Dog’s Salivary Glands

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is sick, has a lump or bump, or is acting abnormally, please see your vet at once.

References:

Colorado State University, Salivary Glands and Saliva, retrieved from the web on October 17th, 2016
The Merck Veterinary Manual, Salivary Disorders in Small Animals, retrieved from the web on October 17th, 2016
Dukes’ Physiology of Domestic Animals, edited by William O. Reece, Comstock Publishing Associates; 12 edition (July 29, 2004)
Best Pet Home Remedies, Salivary Infections in dogs, retrieved from the web on October 17th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Wikipedia, Ranula in a dog, by Uwe Gille – Own work, Ranula in a dog CC BY-SA 3.0

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Why Does My Dog Kick Back Legs After Pooping or Peeing?

October 16, 2016October 16, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Among the variety of odd and not-so-odd behaviors dogs engage in, kicking the back legs against the ground may be one that dog owners are often questioning about. Do dogs scratch the ground to clean their rear paws? Are dogs trying to bury their pee or poop just like cats do? Or are they perhaps just having a “kick” by acting mischievous trying to send dirt in their owners faces? Turns out, dogs may have their own set of valid reasons to kick back with their back legs. Of course, until dogs can talk and give us their own personal explanations, we can only make assumptions. So here are some interesting “pawssibilities” behind this curious behavior.

A Matter of Scent

A dog’s nose rules and plays quite a big role in many doggy behaviors, from sniffing the ground to sniffing other dogs’ rears, to even kicking back with the hind legs right after peeing or pooping. But what does a dog’s nose have to do with dogs kicking back dirt with their back legs?

No, scratching the dirt is not a dog’s way to disperse scent or bury any traces as cats do, actually, the total opposite. When dogs kick up a storm of dirt after finishing with their business, they are actually leaving a message rather than setting a cover-up, explains veterinary behaviorist Dr. Nicholas Dodman.

Dogs have several scent glands (interdigital glands) on their feet, so when they are kicking the dirt, it’s likely that they are trying to leave behind their scent for other dogs to detect.

Interdigital glands are used for marking, but are also used for alarm, explains veterinarian Dr. Bonnie V. G. Beaver in the book “Canine Behavior: Insights and Answers.”

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Perhaps this provides another facet as to why stressed dogs tend to sweat from their paws. Along with the sweat, they may be leaving behind important “alarm messages” giving other dogs a “head’s up” about the presence of a threat!

A Matter of Vision

Sure, dogs rely a whole lot on scent, but their eyes are quite important too! There are therefore chances that when a dog kicks back dirt with his hind legs he may also be trying to leave some sort of visual marking as well.

According to a study conducted by Marc Bekoff, in the case of dogs scratching the ground with their back feet there are actually two different visual displays at play: the act itself of scratching the ground with the back legs which can grab the attention of other dogs, and the traces left in the substrate which act as visual markers.

Ian Dunbar, describes such visual marks as functioning in a similar fashion to some sort of arrow, telling dogs to follow the end of the line of scratched dirt to find the urine. This disrupted terrain along with its scent and presence of poop or pee found just a little bit further, therefore helps put put an emphasis that “Rover was here.”

Did you know? Hediger, a Swiss biologist noted for work in animal behavior, back in 1949, coined the term “demonstration marking” to refer to conspicuous marking behaviors that may also play a role as visual social displays.

Not Only After Elimination

Kicking the dirt with back legs is not always a part of a dog’s elimination routine. As with everything dog related, there are never rules written in stone as dogs are individuals with their own little behavior quirks.

Dog owners therefore report that their dogs may also scratch up dirt when they are sniffing scent left behind from some other dog or perhaps some other animal. In this case, one may wonder whether the kicking up dirt behavior may be a way for the dog to mark over the scent, just as he would do with urine or feces.

What about dogs who seem to kick their legs when they are excited? Some dog owners report seeing their dogs kick their hind legs like bulls do just before charging. This behavior is often affectionately called by dog owners “the happy dance” as it often happens when dogs are about to start playing or know they are about to go on a walk.

And what about dogs who kick their back legs when barking? This seems like another of those behaviors that grant more research, until then, just make sure to be safe from any flinging mud, dirt, and debris!

Watch this Dog Kick up Dirt With a Passion!

References:

Ground Scratching by Male Domestic Dogs: A Composite Signal, by Marc Bekoff, Journal of Mammalogy (1979):
Puppy’s First Steps: The Whole-dog Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy …By Nicholas H. Dodman, Lawrence Lindner,
Canine Behavior: Insights and Answers, By Bonnie V. G. Beaver, Saunders; 2 edition (January 5, 2009)

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Dog Training Guarantees, Not as Good as Thought

October 15, 2016October 15, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Let’s face it: we live in an era where everything seems to come with some sort of guarantee, from coffee makers to faucets, to offers that promise 100 percent money back if customers aren’t entirely satisfied; however, when it comes to dog training offering a guarantee may not be as good as it may sound. Sure, there may be legit and ethical dog trainers who offer certain types of guarantees, but if we’re talking about the type of “we’ll fix your dog’s problems in one session, money back guarantee” type, this is a red flag often denoting a lack of fundamental understanding about what truly goes on when it comes to training dogs a new skill or changing dog behavior.

Dog Behavior Problem Guarantees

Your plumber may be able to fix your clogged toilet in one appointment and your mechanic may change a tire in just about an hour, but dog behavior problems cannot be “fixed” in one behavior modification session. It may sometimes appear so, but it takes much longer than that, especially if we’re talking about certain behaviors that have been rehearsed for quite some time and are have become quite established in a dog’s repertoire of behaviors.

Statements and promises such as ”your dog will be cured from aggression” or ”you’ll have a totally changed dog in this “x” amount of time” or ” we guarantee instant results” should raise a bright, red flag.

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The truth is, a dog behavior consultant who is able to “fix” a problem in just one session is often using harsh, punishment-based methods. What looks like a “fix,” as often seen happening in TV shows where dogs are magically transformed in just a half an hour program are just dogs responding to harsh methods which aim to suppress outward manifestations of behavior problems rather than addressing the underlying, internal issue (an issue of emotions).

Dog Training Guarantees

Sure, a dog can be trained to sit in one, single training session, but is the dog really “trained?” It depends on how you interpret the word “trained.”

If you mean that your dog will sit when you move a cookie from his nose to the back of his head in an upward motion, then, yes, your dog is “trained” to do so,” but if we’re talking about training, where your dog sits upon hearing the verbal cue sit in any place and any time most of the time, we’re a far cry from reaching that goal.

Training a dog takes time, as muscle memory sinks in and behaviors become more and more fluent as dogs are exposed to increasing levels of distractions.

Is a dog really ever fully trained? Most likely not . A dog is always in training as he’s constantly learning and improving in a never ending journey throughout his life.

A Matter of Ethics

Offering guarantees is not only unrealistic, but it is also unethical too. According to the Certification Council of Professional Dog Trainers Code of Ethics, certficants must “refrain from providing guarantees regarding the specific outcome of training.”

According to the Association of Professional Dog Trainers members must “refrain from giving guarantees regarding the outcome of training, because there is no sure way to guarantee the cooperation and performance of all parties involved and because the knowledge of animal behaviorists incomplete. This should not be confused with a desire to guarantee client satisfaction with professional services.”

The Pet Professional Guild, an association for force-free pet professionals, claims “A professional force-free dog trainer will not guarantee their training results. There are too many variables involved and a professional dog trainer cannot control these…The results will be dependent on many things, including your level of commitment and compliance to the recommended program.”

The Bottom Line

Training a dog a new skill or tackling a behavior issue is not something that can be accomplished overnight. The saying “too good to be true” also applies to the world of training dogs and changing behavior. If you expect your dog to magically change at the touch of a wand as seen in a Hollywood makeover, think again: this is likely not going to happen.

Also, dog owners should remember to read the fine print. Often, what is being guaranteed is not the outcome of the dog’s training, but the client’s compliance in following the instructions provided in the training lesson. Therefore, the guarantee is no longer considered valid when owners fail to follow their training program to the letter. Dog owners should therefore be wary of unrealistic promises such as “instant results”, “guaranteed results” or “lifetime guarantees. ”

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Ged Carroll, 100% happiness guaranteed, CCBY2.0

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A Guide to Taking Toys Away From Dogs

October 21, 2016October 14, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Everybody loves to surround their dogs with lots of dog toys, but what if you must take a toy away from your dog? It’s important to follow certain guidelines when taking toys away from dogs so to prevent the onset of potential resource guarding problems. If you own a puppy, it’s best to practice these guidelines early, so that your puppy learns from the get-go that you are trustworthy and that there’s nothing to worry about when you approach him while he has a toy. If you have recently adopted a dog of unknown history or own a dog who shows signs of aggression when you’re taking toys or other possessions away, it’s best to err on the side of caution and make safety your top priority. Consulting with a behavior professional in cases as such is highly recommended.

From a Dog’s Perspective

There is a concerning belief that dog owners should be able to take their dogs’ toys away and the dog should allow it without batting an eye. Often, this belief is based on the outdated idea that dog owners should be the “boss” or the “alpha” and that they should be able to always take anything away from their dogs or do anything to their dogs. This is ultimately dangerous information that can lead to a bite.

One other hand, there may be dog owners who may assume that dogs don’t mind having their their toys taken away just because they don’t react, but from a dog’s perspective a toy can be as valuable as bowl of dog food or a bone.

In many cases, dog owners may miss subtle signs of resource guarding that are less noticeable than the signature “this is mine, go away” serious warning growl. A dog may also not seem to mind having his toys taken away for a while, but after a repeated number of times of having them removed, he may end up getting progressively more and more defensive about it.

It’s important to remember that dog behavior is never static, it tends to change and this can go both ways: in developing desirable behaviors and the not-so-desirable ones.

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“People routinely believe that they “should” be able to take toys from their dogs. This is a subset of the belief that we “should” be able to do thing to dogs because we are humans and they are dogs. Such thinking is outdated and dangerous and leads to inhumane treatment of animals.” ~Karen Overall

A Matter of Trust

How would you feel if one day, as you are shopping at a busy market, you feel somebody slip your wallet out from your pant’s pocket or somebody pulls your purse off from your arm? Most likely, you would be very upset about it.

Dogs care less about losing money or identity theft, but they are sure concerned about losing access to certain resources they particularly cherish such as food, toys and favorite sleeping areas. Sure, dog owners are no strangers to dogs, but wouldn’t you still feel upset if you had $20 sitting on a table and a friend or somebody in your household would take it away from in front of your nose without even asking?

Dog owners often take for granted that a dog shouldn’t mind having a toy taken away from them, but this action, done repeatedly, may make dogs become progressively more and more distrustful.

Resource guarding, a dog’s tendency to act protective of certain items he perceives as valuable and worthy of guarding, indeed is often a matter of trust. These dogs have learned they cannot trust their owners, as often when they approach, negative things happen, such as swooping their toys away from under their noses, or even worse, chasing them, cornering them and forcing them to relinquish the item.

Canine BOGO deal, how about two toys with peanut butter in exhange for one! — Canine BOGO deal, how about two toys with peanut butter in exchange for one!

Instilling Trust in Dogs

So should dog owners totally avoid taking a toy away from their dogs? Absolutely not! Dog owners may often find themselves in situations where they must take a toy away from their dogs as in the case of a toy being broken apart and the dog potentially ingesting parts or a dog stealing a toy from a child.

It’s therefore important to know how to do this as safely as possible, and as mentioned, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so best to start teaching dogs early so that they don’t end up growing up perceiving us as big party poopers who steal toys from under their noses making all the fun stop! So how can we take a toy away without making us resemble a Grinch, ruining Rover’s festivities?

Easy, we teach the advantages of fair trading.

Trading for Treats

How would you feel if somebody tried to steal something you just purchased at an auction? Most likely, awful, and if you could, you would probably even feel compelled to grab the person’s arm to get it back or you might call the authorities, but what if, this person instead asked you to trade what you won in exchange for 100 dollars? Most likely, you would be like: ” Sure, here you go, thank you very much!”

Ah, ha! Same goes with dogs. However, there are some important guidelines to follow, here are a few pointers:

Start early! This means start when your dog is a puppy and keep on rehearsing these exercises periodically throughout your dog’s life.
Learn how to recognize some of the the most subtle signs suggesting resource guarding in dogs. Some subtle signs may include lip licking, whale eyes, yawning, stiffening, keeping the head lowered over the toy, placing the head over the toy, lips pulled back just to name a few.
Never try to forcibly take a toy from your dog such as grabbing it from his mouth or prying it open. This will only reinforce resource guarding behaviors.
If your dog shows signs of resource-guarding seek the assistance of a qualified professional using positive methods.
As a general rule of thumb, the item you trade should be higher in value than the toy taken away. So if your dog has a toy he really likes and you must take it away, you may want to skip kibble for the exchange and look for treats that are higher in value.
Careful with new toys, new toys are higher in value than regular ones your dog is used to seeing every day.
If you rotate toys or find an old toy that was under the couch for some time, consider that when you re-introduce it, it may become valuable in your dog’s eyes, almost or equally as a new toy.
Now, with these guidelines in mind, practice approaching your puppy when he has a low-value toy. Have several smelly treats in your hand, let him sniff them and get interested in them, then plop the handful of tasty treats in front of him and, as his mouth is busy eating, pick up the toy. Let him eat them before putting the toy down again. After practicing some time, put the behavior of taking the toy on cue, by saying “Trade!”right before you place the treats on the floor. You know you have trained well when, upon hearing the word “trade,” your puppy drops the toy immediately and looks for treats even before you show them.
Correct timing and technique is important, especially in the initial stages! If you happen to reach for the toy before offering the treats, you risk being bitten! Have a professional help you out.
Always practice with low value toys first and then build up gradually with toys that are more valuable (while accordingly increasing the value of treats)
A time may come as mentioned where you will have to trade the toy and not give the toy back. What to do in this case? If the toy is one of those long-lasting flavored chew toys your dog loves to chew on for minutes at a time, consider exchanging it with another long-lasting toy such as a stuffed Kong. We have noticed some owners exchanging long-lasting chew toys or bones for a small treat that’s gulped down in a second and the dog is then pacing around in search of the chew toy. Not a fair exchange. These dogs may decide one day that trading is no longer worthy.
Tossing several treats opposite the dog, offers the opportunity to retrieve the toy while the dog is at a distance. It’s often best though to offer a stuffed Kong or a bully stick that is more likely to keep the dog occupied and forget about the toy. Some dogs may gobble the treats and then rush back to the toy right when the owner is there about to pick it up, which can lead to problems if the dog is resource guarder.
There is really no 100 percent complete safe way to remove a toy, but here is a safer version than the traditional exchange many dog trainers suggest. If you are giving a chew toy or other toy that you must at some point take away, simply have the dog enjoy the toy in a room where there is a door nearby. A Kong is then stuffed nearby the door with smelly, high-value treats (make sure your dog sees you doing this and you catch his interest) and then toss it out of the door. When the dog leaves the toy and is out of the room to get the Kong or bully stick, the door is shut close and the toy is removed safely.
Karen Overall suggests to ask the dog to sit, provide the dog with treats and feeding them while moving away from the toy (and perhaps also clipping on the leash for extra caution) while a helper retrieves the toy. She warns though to avoid doing this if the risk in taking the toy is higher than the risk of the dog having the toy.
Some dogs who love to fetch can be prompted to leave a particular toy if another one is tossed at a distance that allows for safe retrieval of the toy.
Looking for alternatives to trading ? When you need to take the toy, have a helper do something the dog is interested in. Like opening the door to the yard and letting the dog out or grabbing the leash so the dog hopefully leaves the toy upon seeing the leash and goes out for a walk leaving you the chance to pick up the toy in the dog’s absence. Alternatively, you can coordinate toy-giving with meal times. Simply provide access to the toy some time prior to meal time so that you can then collect the toy while your dog is actively eating. Replace it with another better one, so that your dog doesn’t see a pattern of eating and losing access to his toys and actually has a pleasant surprise when he comes back.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional behavior advice. If your dog is prone to resource guarding, please consult with a qualified professional using positive methods.

References:

Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, by Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013) .

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