Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

Seven Fascinating Dog Coat Color Patterns

March 14, 2025October 28, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Dogs come in a wide array of different shapes and sizes and one of the most distinguishing features is the fact dogs come in many fascinating coat colors. Some coat colors are quite common, while others are quite unusual to come by. As much as a dog’s coat color is impressive, it’s important to avoid choosing a dog based exclusively on coat color or looks alone. Other factors such as health and temperament and activity levels are important factors to consider. Dog owners must also be wary of breeders who breed for a specific coat color only, ignoring other important aspects such as health, conformation and temperament. In some cases, some stunning dog coat colors come with a price: associated health problems that perspective dog owners should be aware of.

1) The Merle Dog Coat Pattern

The merle coat is a fascinating coat pattern characterized by a marbling effect of dark patches against a background of the same color, only lighter.

There are different varieties of merle such as blue merle (with mottled black patches) and red merle (with reddish patches) and merle dogs may also have blue eyes or eyes of different colors (complete heterochromia) along with flecks and marbling.

Some dog breeds with the merle pattern include Australian shepherds, Shetland sheepdogs, collies, Catahoula Leopard Dogs, Chihuahuas, Cardigan Welsh Corgi and great danes.

As much as a merle coat is appealing to the eye, it’s associated with some serious health conditions.

For example, breeding a merle with another merle is asking for trouble as this can lead to puppies that have two copies of the merle gene, which are referred to as double merle puppies. Double merle puppies are prone to deafness and blindness, and are susceptible to the effects of the sun, which predisposes them to skin cancer. To prevent transmission of hereditary problems that are associated with the merle gene, breeding two dogs with this coat should be avoided.

“Merle is a random dilution gene… think of bleach. Take a tooth brush and dip it bleach. Now splatter a black t-shirt with the bleach. You will NEVER get the exact same design twice. This is what the merle gene does.. Since the places that merle gene lands are rather random, you get all different looks. Patches, dots, spots, bands for example. If the gene lands in the eyes, we get beautiful and highly desired blue eyes! If the gene lands enough on the nose, especially with a few other genes in the mix, you get pink on the nose.”~ Carol, breeder at Keen Pomeranians

Did you know? A merle dachshund is called a dapple.

2) The Brindle Coat Pattern

Like merle, brindle is also a coat color pattern, it is often described as being “tiger-striped.” The stripes are irregular and dark against a lighter base color that is often fawn, brown or gray.

The brindle coat pattern is found in several dog breeds including great danes, bulldogs and boxers. In boxers, black brindle or reverse brindle may occur, where a heavy concentration of black striping covers almost all the fawn background making it look as if the coat is actually black with fawn stripes.

In dogs with long, wiry or curly fur, the brindle markings may appear less distinct.

There are several variations of the brindle coat color pattern such as blue brindle, red brindle, liver brindle, fawn brindle and brown brindle.

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Did you know? Jack was a brindle bulldog that was featured in the famous book “Little House on the Prairie” books by Laura Ingalls Wilder.

3) The Harlequin Coat Pattern

The harlequin is also a specific color pattern. In the harlequin, the base background color is pure white while gray or black torn patches are randomly distributed over the dog’s body.

The black patches should ideally be not too small but, at the same time, not too big as to cover large areas and appear like a blanket.

It can be said that the harlequin coat pattern is related to the merle pattern. Basically, in the harlequin, a white background is present instead of the usual blue background as seen in merles.

There are not too many breeds boasting the harlequin coat. The most popular one is the great dane. Some people confuse a young harlequin great Dane for a Dalmatian. Even though both breeds are technically white with black areas, the Dalmatian has white smooth rounded spots while a harlequin great dane has torn patches.

Producing this coat color is not easy and often cannot be attained by just simply crossing two harlequin specimens.

“Dr. Leigh Anne Clark and colleagues at Clemson University have recently discovered the gene that causes the Harlequin phenotype… The discovery is a most interesting one, as it turns out the harlequin gene isn’t a “color” (pigment producing) gene at all. The harlequin gene simply alters the affect of the merle gene, so that the diluted regions (of merle coloration) otherwise seen are largely removed from the coat pattern, leaving behind the bi-color dog we know as a Harlequin… there is now proof positive that all Harlequins are genetic merles.~Great Dane Club of America

Did you know? The name of the harlequin coat pattern is inspired by “Arlecchino” a comic servant character from the Italian Commedia Dell’ Arte known for wearing a typical checkered costume.

4) The Ticked Coat Pattern

Ticked coat patterns are characterized by smaller spots of black or colored hairs found on a white background.

One main feature of this pattern is that it’s present only in the white parts of the dog’s coat. You may see ticking therefore on widespread areas or on just certain areas, such as on the white of a dog’s legs or on the white part of the muzzle.

Ticked coats are often found in many gun dogs and dogs bred for hunting such as German shorthaired pointer, German wirehaired pointer, Brittany, English springer spaniels and bluetick coonhounds.

An interesting fact about ticked coats is that puppies are not born with them but rather develop the ticked coat pattern later as they develop.

5) The Spotted Coat Pattern

Among the plethora of dogs breeds populating this planet, the Dalmatian is the only spotted breed and of course this breed had to make it on the list of fascinating dog coat patterns.

Cruella De Vil fell in love with the spotted dogs in the movie “The 101 Dalmatians” but dog lovers love these dogs for many other reasons other than their fur (hopefully!)

According to the American Kennel Club, a Dalmatian’s background color is pure white with round dense black or liver brown spots. The importance of the spots being this color is so important that any other color is means for disqualification in the show ring.

The spots are expected to range from the size of a dime to the size of a half-dollar.

Like some other dog breeds, this appealing coat pattern comes at a price. The same genes responsible for the spots are also what may predispose this breed to deafness due to the extreme piebald (s^w) pigment genes.

Deafness in piebald animals is linked to the absence of mature melanocytes in one or both ears. According to veterinarian Dr. George M. Strain at Louisiana State University, eight percent of all Dalmatians in the US are bilaterally deaf and 22 percent are unilaterally deaf.

Did you know? Dalmatian puppies are born white without any spots showing, but just ’cause you don’t see them doesn’t mean they’re not there! The spots are there since birth, but they only become fully visible when the pups mature and the hairs turn black.

6) The Roan Coat Pattern

Roan and ticked coat patterns are terms that are often used interchangeably. There is still quite some ambiguity on the usage of such terms. In 1957, Little suggested that the terms roan and ticking should be used separately.

Generally, the roan coat pattern consists of a fine, even mixture of pigmented hairs and white hairs. Basically, the different colored hairs are so closely spaced that the mixture appears to be giving the impression of a blue gray or iron gray color.

A dog with a coat comprising black and white hairs is called a blue roan. Other roan types include red roan, lemon roan, liver roan and brown roan.

“You may hear roan Australian Cattle Dogs referred to as “speckled” or “mottled” – these terms just refer to different extents of roan and ticking.”~Dog Genetics Co.

7) Tricolor Coat Pattern

As the name implies, this dog coat pattern is made of three different colors.

Usually the three colors consist of black, tan and white. Generally, it’s a black and tan dog with white markings.

However, there are also tricolored dogs coming in liver, blue and isabella.

Common dog breeds that come with a tri-colored coat include the Bernese Mountain Dog, Entlebucher Mountain Dog,, Beagle, rat terrier, papillon and basenji.

As seen, dogs can boast quite some fascinating coats. There are of course, many other colors and patterns that are equally attractive. What is your favorite coat color and pattern?

References:

Dog Genetics, Merle Series, retrieved from the web on October 28th, 2016
Byrne, Georgina (1990) [1990]. “Gene Loci for Coat Colour and Pattern”. Der Deutsch Kurzhaar, The German Shorthaired Pointer. Georgina & Michael Byrne.
American Kennel Club, Glossary, retrieved from the web on October 28th, 2016

Photo Credits:

A blue merle-colored Cardigan, by Dhlstrm, CC BY-SA 3.0
A Great Dane with the brindle color pattern. Harlis.jpg: Rytis Mikelskas derivative work: Pleple2000 (talk) – Harlis.jpg Medium weight brindle Great Dane CC BY-SA 3.0
Dogge Odin, Deutsche Dogge Odin aus dem Nebelgrund (Land Brandenburg). Weiblich, 4 Jahre alt. Aufgenommen am 19.02.2006.Viborg~commonswiki, CC BY-SA 3.0
German Shorthair Pointer, liver & white patched (head) and ticked (body),Honey Hit&Miss, owned by Donna Sprouse Photo by Ellen Levy Finch, CC BY-SA 3.0
A 60-pound, eight-month-old Bernese Mountain Dog puppy, Zakattakk – Own work 9 months old, 60 lbs (eventually approximately 100 lbs), CC BY-SA 4.0
Dalmatiner “Prunella Fitzgerald de Puech Barrayre”Le dalmatien – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0
Australian Cattle dog, Photo by Ellen Levy Finch (Elf). – English Wikipedia en:Image:AustrCattleDogBlue wb.jpg Australian Cattle Dog (blue) ADCH O-NATCH Jumpin’Jack Flash (JJ) Taken Feb 22,2004 at the SMART/USDAA dog agility competition in Salinas, CA. CC BY-SA 3.0

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Can Dogs Sense the Paranormal and See Ghosts?

March 14, 2025October 27, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Dogs are often believed of being capable of detecting paranormal activity, and perhaps this is because of their highly developed senses, but are dogs truly gifted to sense the paranormal? Can dogs really sense the presence of a spirit of ghost? Countless dog owners report that their dogs at times act as if they have seen a ghost, intently staring at the wall or ceiling and barking repeatedly but there’s nothing there. What is going on? Some explanations are quite down to earth, but interestingly, at times, things may never have a proven explanation. So today, let’s discover more facts that tie dogs more closely to the paranormal along with some interesting ghostly tidbits.

Dogs Can Hear Things Humans Cannot

When your dog is barking intently at noises you cannot hear, it’s easy to wonder whether he’s interacting with some poltergeist in the mood for mischief especially around this time of the year, but can dogs really hear ghosts?

Barking at the wall or ceiling may seem to suggest that, but perhaps it’s best to skip contacting your local paranormal investigation team for now and have your local exterminator’s number on speed dial instead.

Before assuming your dog is responding to some sort of paranormal events, let’s take a look at some interesting facts about his uncanny ability to detect sounds.

Dogs are known for being blessed with sensitive ears and you can literally watch them move their ears in different directions to attain a better reception. Blessed with 18 muscles, watch those doggy ears in action: rising, lowering, tilting, rotating and even moving independently from one another!

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Noises are simply sound waves traveling along molecules in the air, but it takes a specialized sense of hearing to allow reception of the world’s faintest sounds. First off, consider distance. Sounds you’re able to hear may range from 20 feet away, bit Rover is capable of detecting from as far as 80 feet. Then, consider pitch. Rover wins big time here again, detecting frequencies that are twice as high in pitch compared to the ones you’re capable of perceiving.

So with this being said, it may sound doable for a dog to sense ghosts, doesn’t it? After all, ghost hunters invest in amplified microphones and digital audio recorders to detect the paranormal, but when it comes to Rover, he certainly seems to be naturally gifted.

However, most likely, your dog is not reacting to a ghost or spirit, but something more down to earth such as some distant noise, or if he’s barking and staring at a specific spot, some sort of critter living in your wall, ceiling or basement. Mice, raccoon, bats, squirrels, opossum and birds are critters known for making themselves at home in people’s houses, so relax and consider calling your local exterminator (hopefully one that’s committed to humane pest control) to have your home inspected.

Fun fact: Dogs have the uncanny ability to hear ultrasonic frequencies, high-pitch sounds that are mostly over 20,000 Hz. According to Louisiana State University, humans are capable of detecting sounds within the range of 64 to 23,000 Hertz, while dogs can detect sounds between 67 and 45,000 Hertz.

And They Can See Things Humans Can’t See

Dogs may miss out on visual acuity, but they are gifted with other vision features that are worthy of discovering. Sure, Rover might not be able to tell the difference in color between a Granny Smith or Red Delicious apple, (dogs see colors in a similar fashion as people who are red-green color blind -that makes him a deuteranope by the way), but he’s certainly better than us in seeing in the low-light conditions. This must have put dogs on an evolutionary advantage back in the days when they were hunting down nocturnal critters.

So with this being said, it sounds doable that dogs may be capable of sensing the presence of ghosts. After all, ghost hunters invest in night vision and infrared cameras to detect paranormal activities.

However, if you see your dog staring intently at something, it’s more likely he just spotted some random bug such as a moth or a spider rather than witnessing a ghost!

Fun Fact: On top of seeing better in dark conditions, dogs have also the ability to see ultraviolet light. According to a study published in the Proceedings of the Royal Society B, researchers found that the lens of dogs and other many mammals allowed some ultraviolet light through. This may have further helped dogs hunt at night since the ability to see ultraviolet increases visual sensitivity in low light conditions, therefore helping a dog discern a grey rodent running against a backdrop of a brown field at dusk.

Can Dogs Detect Ghosts Then?

Being equipped with superior senses means that dogs are better capable than us in detecting things that we cannot see, smell or hear. This often makes us wonder if dogs can sense paranormal activities.

There are many stories of dogs acting weird in the home, dogs chasing what look like orbs and dogs acting scared without a plausible explanation. While there may be many down to earth explanations for these behaviors, at times though, it seems like no reasonable explanation can be found. Does this mean that dogs can see ghosts?

The chicken- or- the -egg dilemma applies here perfectly: If ghosts don’t really exist, how can dogs ultimately detect them in the first place? Is paranormal dog behavior therefore non-existent?

For those who believe in ghosts, the answer is almost a no-brainer: of course, dogs can sense ghosts! And statistics show lots of people believe in them. According to a 2005 Gallup Poll, 37 percent of Americans believe in haunted houses, while 32 percent believe in ghosts.

And for those skeptics out there, they might want to know what science has to say. As of today, science doesn’t really seem to have an explanation as there doesn’t seem to be any credible empirical data to support the existence of any paranormal activities or events. The one million dollar prize offered by the James Randi Educational Foundation (JREF) to anyone who can demonstrate a supernatural or paranormal event under agreed-upon scientific testing criteria, has yet to be granted. Until then, it just seems like behind every orb, shadow or possible poltergeist, there’s always some perfectly rational explanation. However, for those ghost believers out there, science has something that can bring some hope about dogs being able to sense the paranormal and this time it comes from Einstein: “Energy never dies; it can neither be created nor destroyed.” So the next question is: what happens to that energy? With that being said Happy Howl-o-ween to all!

Did you know? Great danes were believed in the past to make great ghost hunters as they always seemed to have an uncanny ability to seeing things that are “not” there, explain Gerald Hausman and Loretta Hausman in the book “The Mythology of Dogs: Canine Legend.” Scooby-Doo and Marmaduke were likely inspired by this breed’s trait.

References:

Louisiana State University, How Well Do Dogs and Other Animals Hear?, retrieved from the web on October 27th, 2016.
D Warfield. 1973. The study of hearing in animals. In: W Gay, ed., Methods of Animal Experimentation, IV. Academic Press, London, pp 43-143.
RR Fay & AN Popper, eds. 1994. Comparative Hearing: Mammals. Springer Handbook of Auditory Research Series. Springer-Verlag, NY.
Strain, George M. Hearing frequency ranges for dogs & other species? Lousiana State University. 3 June 2003.

Photo Credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, wakefielddavid, Ghost Dogs CCBY2.0

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Dog Word of the Day: Elizabethan Collar

March 14, 2025October 26, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

If you have never heard the word “Elizabethan collar” before, no worries. Most likely, you know what it is, but have never heard its original name. More commonly known as cone or E- collar for short (not to be confused with shock collar), an Elizabethan collar is as a protective medical device for dogs. To put it more bluntly, it’s the infamous dog “lamp-shade,” “radar dish” or “cone of shame” collar you see dogs wearing around their neck when they’re on their way out of the veterinary office after undergoing surgery or some other type of minor procedure.

A Closer Insight

A dog Elizabethan collar is a protective medical device shaped like a truncated cone. A truncated cone is basically a shape where the apex of the cone is removed to resemble a lampshade.

The Elizabethan collar is usually made out of flexible plastic and it is meant to be attached to the dog’s collar to stay in place. The Elizabethan collar can be attached to the dog’s collar using strings or tabs.

Since dogs come in different sizes, Elizabethan collars come in different sizes as well, and therefore, they can be easily worn from the tiniest Chihuahua to the largest Irish wolfhound. Due to these size variances, it’s important to ensure a good fit.

Elizabethan collars are sold at most veterinary offices but many stores now also carry them and these are many different types.

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Understanding its Purpose

The purpose of an Elizabethan collar is to prevent a dog from licking or scratching his body and to therefore allow dog incisions and injuries to heal.

When dogs try to lick their wounds, it’s not like they’re being naughty; it’s simply their instinct telling them to lick. Dog saliva is known for containing beneficial compounds that are capable of destroying the cell walls of gram-positive bacteria. Dog saliva can therefore help promote healing, diminish pain and inhibit bacterial growth, however, as with many things in life, too much of a good thing can be bad.

Given the opportunity, dogs will tend to lick a whole lot which can cause loads of trouble as the repeated abrasive action of the tongue, along with keeping a wound moist for too long (moisture attracts bacteria), may lead to an infection or injury.

This is why the veterinarian may recommend that your dog wear the infamous “cone of shame”which comes extra handy when you are unable to monitor his activity and he could end up inadvertently injuring himself. And the last thing you want is going back to the vet to get your dog stitched up all over again!

“Pets can get obsessed with licking to the detriment of healthy skin. There’s also a lot of bad bacteria in a pet’s mouth, so as with so many good things in life, licking is an activity best done in moderation.” Dr. Patty Khuly

The Proper Fit

In most cases, when you pick up your dog from surgery, he’ll be already wearing the e-collar or if he’s not, the staff will do a brief demo on how to put it on and take it off. This cuts out all the work needed to figure out what size you’ll need for your dog. If you need to buy an Elizabethan collar instead, you will need to know the circumference of your dog’s neck. You can obtain the circumference of the neck hole size by simplymeasuring your dog’s collar ensuring you can fit two fingers between collar and neck. It’s also helpful to know the measure from your dog’s neck to snout as this can vary among long-nosed breeds and short-nosed breeds

When properly fit, an Elizabethan collar should be short enough to allow the dog to eat and drink. At the same time though, you need to make sure that your dog’s E-Collar extends 3 inches past the nose so to prevent him from reaching the wound area with his tongue, points out Camden County Animal Shelter. A properly fit cone collar should be secure, but not too tight. Below you can watch a video on how to fit an E-collar.

Helping Dog Adjust

Many dogs get quite upset when they must wear a cone, and who can blame them? Elizabethan collars, especially the opaque types, restrict the dog’s peripheral vision creating blind spots to the sides which causes dogs trouble navigating around the home. Bumping into furniture and knocking over items from a coffee table due to tunnel vision can be scary for the dog and so can be getting stuck into corners.

You can help your dog adjust be clearing a room from items that are easily knocked over and removing small furniture that can be in the way. Also, assist him going through doorways or around furniture.

Dogs who refuse to drink or eat while wearing the collar may not like the collar touching the edges of the food and water bowl. A shallow dish may be an option or you can try elevating the food and water bowl to see if this helps. If your dog has a hard time to eat or drink, you can always temporarily remove the collar, but you must be vigilant to ensure your dog doesn’t start licking or scratching the wound or incision.

Fortunately, most dogs adjust to wearing an Elizabethan collar just fine after a bit of time. It may help to feed your dog some tasty treats the moment the collar is put on and you can also praise him, letting him know what a good boy he is, and reassuring him that he still looks handsome, despite wearing that satellite dish around his head!

Alternatives to Elizabethan Collars

Many dog owners find the use of an Elizabethan collar quite uncomfortable for their dogs. While some dogs adjust to wearing the cone, some may have a hard time accepting it as it interferes too much with their daily eating, drinking, sleeping and general mobility.

This has caused astute marketers to look for alternatives to dog Elizabethan collars which are now growing in popularity.

Soft fabric has been used to somewhat mimic the neck pillows people use when travelling on planes so that dogs have trouble turning their head around to lick their incisions. A classic example is the Kong Cloud Collar.

Other companies make inflatable models, as the one seen in the picture on the left or collars that resemble neck braces (the Bite-Not collar) And some others make what’s known as a “soft collar” which fits best the more mellow fellows (eg. The Comfy Cone).

Do It Yourself Elizabethan Collar

Some dog owners have become quite creative in building their own home-made versions of Elizabethan collars using cheap material normally found at home. How effective these are, can be questionable, but they may temporarily do their job when dog owners need a quick fix to protect further their dogs from self-licking. Cardboard, paper plates, plastic flower pots, light-weight buckets and actual lampshades have been known to be used as temporary measures.

Sometimes, if the wound is by the abdomen, dog owners may let their dog wear baby onesies or a shirt so to cover the area. Out of sight, out of mind! But a dog wearing a shirt should be carefully monitored as it can come off or the dog may chew it up or work his way under it to get to the wound. Alternatively, an ace bandage wrapped around the abdomen can be used to help prevent access to the incision. To work well, it must be snug, but not too tight. Ideally, you should be able to slip a finger under it. You can then secure the end with some medical tape so it stays in place, suggests veterinarian Dr. Kara.

A Look into History

Did you know? If you ever wondered why the cone of shame is formally called an Elizabethan collar, here’s the answer for you. The term is inspired by the ancient ruff that used to be worn back in Western Europe during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I.

Photo Credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, Andrew Petro , Cubby in BooBooLoon, CCBY2.0
Flickr, Creative Commons 52 Weeks of Photos, Bucket Head, aussiegall CCBY2.0

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What is Dog Ear Plucking?

March 14, 2025October 25, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Among the variety of procedures dogs undergo, ear plucking is one that is often a subject of controversy, with some people suggesting its use and others frowning upon it. Not all dogs need ear plucking, there are certain dog breeds that it is believed need it more than others. But what exactly is ear plucking? The procedure is perhaps not that as common as other ones, but we thought to add it in our trivia collection. So today’s question is:

What is Dog Ear Plucking?

A It’s another term for cropping a dog’s ears

B It’s another word for clipping the hair around the ears

C It’s the removal of hair from a dog’s ear canal

D It’s the term for removing any awns, grasses or thorns stuck to the fur of the dog’s ear

The Correct Answer is: Drum Roll Please…

drum

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The correct answer is C: dog ear plucking is the removal of hair from a dog’s ear canal.

An Insight into the Procedure

What exactly is dog ear plucking and what does it entail? Ear plucking is a common dog grooming procedure where the hairs from a dog’s ear canal are pulled (plucked) using either fingers, hemostats or some other tool for the purpose.

The dog’s hairs in the ear canal should be removed little by little, versus large chunks all at once so to help prevent irritating the dog’s delicate ear canal skin.

Is dog ear plucking a painful procedure? Many groomers say it is not, but considering that hair is innervated, it must certainly not be a pleasant one.

We watched several videos and saw many dogs twitch and whine. However, there are chances that after a while, the hairs become easier to pluck out, which should make the procedure less painful. Some groomers use special ear powders which are meant to make gripping the hairs easier.

Dog Ear Plucking Video (the more gentle version)

The Purpose of Dog Ear Plucking

What’s the purpose of ear plucking? There is belief that ear plucking is a needed procedure for certain dogs as it removes excess hair from the dog’s ear canal, allowing more air flow. It is mostly used in hairy dog breeds such as poodle, schnauzers, Maltese and bichons to prevent the hair in their ears from trapping moisture, which is a predisposing factor that increases the chances for bacterial and yeast ear infections.

One Side of the Story…

Veterinarians and groomers have been frowning about the dog ear plucking procedure because it can irritate the ear canal and the tiny wound left from the procedure actually end up causing micro-inflammation in the hair follicles, attracting more bacteria compared to just letting the hairs be.

Also, the irritation may lead a dog to scratch and shake his ears more which may lead to more problems down the road.

Dr. Heide Newton, a veterinary dermatologist claims that groomers should stop plucking ear hair from inside a dog’s ears, explaining that “healthy ears are self-cleaning.” She recommends instead that groomers continue the practice of ear cleaning, massaging the ear so to remove any wax and debris from the ear canal using products specially formulated for ear care. When it comes to removing hairs, she just suggests clipping excess hair from around the ear opening.

There are really no studies out there that have found a correlation between an increased number of hairs in the ear canal with the incidence of ear inflammation, points out Dr. Christopher G. Byers with MidWest Veterinary Specialty Hospital in Omaha. Dermatologist Dr. Paul Bloom also agrees that ears should not be plucked, but if there is an infected ear, he says those hairs gotta come out so to clean the ear out, but otherwise those hairs should be left alone. You can listen to his statement below.

“I also recommend not to pluck the hair from the ear canals of dogs during grooming, as this creates inflammation within the canal that often leads to secondary infections.” Dr. Amelia White, veterinary dermatologist.

https://soundcloud.com/user-521040416/quit-plucking-hair-from-ears

And the Other One

It’s always interesting hearing both sides of the story when there are controversial practices under debate. Dr. Anthony Remillard with Acupet Veterinary Care of is well aware of what dermatologists think about plucking dog ears, but he shows another side of the story.

In his article, he observes how years back when ear plucking was still quite popular, dogs’ ears were much healthier and with the ear canal’s micro-environment in better shape than today.

He claims that when the hair is plucked for the first two or three times, micro-inflammation might form, but soon, the hair follicles should become easy to pluck out causing little to no inflammation. He therefore concludes than when hairy-eared puppies are groomed and plucked from an early age, the ears can be easily be kept healthy and hair free.

“Any dogs (at any age) with significant amounts of hair in their ears should have the hair plucked out routinely, usually at least every 6 weeks…Plucking hair from the ears allows a deep, thorough cleaning of any built-up wax or debris, and allows the canal to breathe, thus keep the canal drier.”~Dr. Remillard

We understand that dog ear plucking is a controversial issue, but thought it would be interesting discovering both sides. What are your experiences and thoughts on dog ear plucking? Feel free to post in the comments below.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is prone to ear infections, consult with your vet.

Photo Credits:

Severe otitis externa in a four year old Cocker Spaniel. The ear canal is inflamed and swollen shut, and ceruminous exudate is present, Joel Mills, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported
Flickr Creative Commons, Allan Henderson, Nahni Big Ears CCBY2.0

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I am Your Dog’s Mast Cells

March 14, 2025October 24, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Your dog’s immune system is always working around the clock to keep your dog protected from insidious diseases. In particular, white blood cells, the cells of your dog’s immune system, play the role of soldiers actively protecting the fortress (your dog’s body) against infectious diseases and foreign invaders. Mast cells, even though having a bad rap due to allergies, anaphylaxis and cancer, are a type of white blood cell which also have a protective role. Today, let’s take a closer look into a dog’s mast cells, what they do, how they work and the things that can wrong.

Introducing Your Dog’s Mast Cells

Hello, it’s your dog’s mast cells talking! As mentioned, we are a type of white blood cell. Actually, to be more descriptive, we are granulocytes, a sub-type of white blood cells that are known for having granules in their cytoplasm. Many of our granules are rich in histamine and heparin, an anticoagulant, along with other substances. We were first described by Paul Enrich in 1878, who noted our distinguishing feature of having large granules.

We are born in your dog’s bone marrow and then distribute in most tissues of your dog’s body, but we’re mostly like to stick around the skin, digestive tract, respiratory tract, mouth, nose and eye area. In healthy dogs, we normally populate body tissues only, and only very rarely are we detected into the blood stream.

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We are equipped with special storage sacs which house powerful molecules called mediators which are released in specific circumstances and that produce local responses.

We Stand Guard

As mentioned, we are guardians who protect the body from perceived invaders and actively respond to the presence of allergens and inflammation. Since we are located by the skin, mouth, eyes and nose, we play a prime role in detecting allergens. We are basically pretty inactive beings when all is well, but the moment we detect an allergen in your dog’s body, we rapidly degranulate, releasing histamine. This explains why your dog gets all itchy when he eats a food he’s allergic to!

When histamine is released, it can lead to swelling, redness, itching, welts and even anaphylaxis, a severe systemic reaction to an allergen such as from bees stings and drugs. In dogs, skin allergies are more common rather than the classic allergy symptoms seen in humans such as sneezing and developing a watery nose and eyes. Antihistamines are helpful in keeping allergy symptoms under control.

“Histamine is useful in the body at certain levels. Mast cells release histamine which helps attract other white cells to an area or an invader to help clean up the area, or mount an immune system reaction… Histamine is important in immunity. However, too much histamine is not good for the body.” ~ Dr. Demain Dressler

When Things Go Wrong

Yes, there can be too much of a good thing. While we are master immune regulators and infection fighting cells, things can get out of hand at times, such as when there are too many of us or we “misbehave” causing severe symptoms and disorders.

Mast Cell Tumors

We are probably mostly known for wrecking trouble as it happens with mast cell tumors. Fortunately, malignant mast cell cancer can be often ruled out or confirmed through a fine needle aspirate. Remember how we said earlier that we rarely appear in the bloodstream? Well, when a mast cell tumor is highly malignant, it may spread and appear in the blood stream. An advanced mast cell tumor can therefore be detected with a blood test by looking at the “buffy coat.“

When it comes to the malignant, aggressive forms, mast cell tumors are often referred to as “the great imitators,” because it can take many different forms which can be confused with other skin problems. Sometimes they may present as a solitary bump or in groups on the dog’s skin, and often look like innocuous masses. This is why when your dog develops any unusual looking lumps, bumps or lesions, you should have them checked out by the vet, especially if they grow and change appearance. Mast cell skin tumors may appear as lumps that stay the same size for a while and then start growing. Mast cell tumors can be seen in any dogs, but boxers and Boston terriers are particularly affected.

When caught early and affecting only the skin (grade 1) mast cell tumors can be surgically removed, with wide and clean margins, and the cancer can be kept at bay. Things start getting progressively worse through with grade 2 and 3. Treatment options therefore vary based on the grade of this tumor. Because we release histamine, heparin, and other enzymes when we’re damaged, we can cause major disruptions. Too much histamine can cause the dog’s stomach to produce too much acid, which is why antihistamines and antiacids are often prescribed to dogs with mast cell tumors. On top of increased acidity, the release of histamine, heparin, and other enzyme may also have negative effects on the dog’s heart rate, blood pressure, and other important body functions.

While mast cell tumors most commonly affect the dog’s skin (cutaneous mast cell tumors) at times, they may even affect internal organs (visceral mast cell tumors) which can produce vague symptoms such as loss of appetite, vomiting and lethargy. Skin mass cell tumors may also affect the skin only at first and then metastasize to internal organs as they advance and spread.

“It is not possible to tell with the naked eye alone whether a specific skin growth is a malignant mast cell tumor or not, and therefore, some diagnostic tests are always necessary to confirm whether a skin growth is a mast cell tumor.”~ Etienne Cote

Did you know? Mast cell tumors commonly affect a dog’s skin and subcutaneous tissues and account for 7 to 21 percent of dog skin tumors. (Source, References 1)

References:

Pergamon Press Ltd. 1992, “Skin tumors of the dogs and cat,” by M.H. Goldschmidt & F.S. Shofer
Clinical Medicine of the Dog and Cat, Second Edition, edited by Michael Schaer
Mast Cell Tumors in Dogs, TEXTBOOK OF VETERINARY INTERNAL MEDICINEClient Information Series Mona P. Rosenberg, DVM DACVIM
Pet Education, Mast Cell Tumors, retrieved from the web on October 24th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Kidz Search, author Kauczuk, Photo of skin mast cells at 100X using an oil immersion lens and an olympus digital camera. The cells are stained with Tol Blue, and might appear slightly degranulated as they were activated using an artificial antigen during the course of an experiment.

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How to Give a Dog a Bad Tasting Pill

March 14, 2025October 23, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

A time in your life may come when you’ll need to give your dog some bad-tasting, bitter pills. Sure, there are certain medications such as beef flavored heart worm chews that dogs eagerly gulp down like there’s no tomorrow, and then there are those bitter pills that turn Rover into the canine personification of a stubborn mule who won’t budge no matter what, so how to give an obstinate dog a bad tasting pill? Fortunately, there are several tricks of the trade that can turn dogs into collaborative patients. So today we’ll be discovering some of them that will hopefully turn pilling your dog into a breeze.

First Some Acknowledgements

First and foremost, let’s give our dogs some credit. Dogs have no idea whatsoever that those pills are good for them no matter how much we try to persuade them into thinking that they’ll help them feel better quickly. We also can’t tell dogs to just take the pill and wash it down with a big gulp of water.

Dogs rely on their instincts and Mother Nature has developed their senses so that they could avoid eating things that can be potentially harmful for them. Eating a bitter pill is not only unpleasant, but a dog most likely instinctively “knows” to avoid bad tastes. Bad tasting things raise a red flag about something that can be harmful or even toxic and that therefore should be avoided. What looks like stubborn behavior to us is instead the clever work of nature and adaptive!

Just like us, dogs have several taste buds scattered on their tongues that helps them determine what and what not to eat. A dog’s taste buds are equipped with special receptors that are meant to relay important messages to the dog’s brain. What sort of messages are transmitted? If say, your dog detects something bitter or plain nasty, his brain will make a note of it and quickly evoke your do to spit it out. Bleeeeh!

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Did you know? The function of taste is so important for survival that, in puppies, the sense of taste (along with the sense of smell and touch) is one of the first senses to be present, even though it takes a few weeks to fully sharpen.

“Sensations of pleasure and disgust provided by taste serve a survival function. A reasonable rule of thumb, at least for natural substances, is that bad tastes are a signal that the animal has encountered something that is harmful, indigestible, or poisonous…”~Stanley Coren

A Word of Caution

Hunting your dog down to give him a bad-tasting pill day after day, is not only a daunting and unnerving task, but it can also lead to problems.

All dogs CAN and WILL bite under the right circumstance (yes, even the angelic ones with halos over their heads.) While it’s true that some dogs have a higher bite threshold than others, a time may come when that threshold lowers either because the dog is not feeling well, or because he’s cornered against a wall and his “please-stop-that” signals given to you to as a plea to not make him bite are being totally ignored.

And if say, you manage to force a pill down his throat one time and he doesn’t put up a struggle, keep in mind that things can change the next day once your dog discovers that you are trying to give him another pill. Of course, not all dogs necessarily think this way, but we can’t say that giving them a pill is something dogs enjoy, so there’s always a risk factor into play when doing things dogs don’t understand or appreciate having done.

Giving your dog bitter, bad -tasting pills can therefore potentially negatively affect your future interactions with your dog. Next time you come close to him, he may be reluctant to open his mouth (crocodile jaws, anyone?) or he may even turn his head the other way or decide to take flight and hide somewhere. A dog reluctant to having his mouth handled, often translates into difficult future veterinary exams when the mouth needs to be checked.

So what’s left to do? Keeping on trying to get your dog to swallow the bitter pill will only further convince your dog that you’re not trustworthy, making matters only worse next time the infamous pill time is around the corner. Your dog may engage in avoidance or become defensive and even bite. A better approach is therefore to rely on the “catch more flies with honey than vinegar” philosophy.

Six Options for Giving Your Dog Bad-Tasting Pills

The best option in giving your dog a bad tasting pill is to simply camouflage it with food. Your dog’s taste buds should be deceived as your dog wolfs the food down without giving his taste buds enough time to detect the bitter taste. The secret is to getting your dog to gulp the bad-tasting pill down quickly. Stanley Coren says that a dog’s taste buds that sense bitter are located on the rear part of the tongue, therefore, “a fast gulp will not register the bitter taste,” whereas, “prolonged chewing will let the bitter work its way back to where it can be tasted.” So yes, covering the pill in food is the best way to go, but if your dog has allergies, a sensitive stomach or a medical condition, ask your vet first before trying any of these foods.

1) Wrap ‘Em In Cheese

Does your dog adore cheese? If so, he’ll love these cheese balls! Before trying this option though, make sure that your dog is not prone to getting digestive problems from eating cheese or milk products and that the pills are OK to take with dairy products. This latter piece of info should be found on the medication bottle’s or the accompanying medical leaflet that comes with the medication. When in doubt, ask your vet.

Simply get a slice of cheese and wrap it around the pill, closing it tightly so it doesn’t unroll in your dog’s mouth. Even better, here’s something I came up with when I was boarding a dog whose owner provided me with cheese slices to roll up to hide her dog’s pills.

Basically, I had this slice of cheese in my hand ready to give it to the dog, when this dogs ran to the door to tell me he had to go potty. So I went out with him with the cheese in my hand and being that it was about 90 degrees outside and the dog took his sweet time to potty, the cheese started softening up to the consistency of play dough. So now, I was able to make cheese balls! I placed the pill in the middle and made a tight ball.

You can mimic my 90-degree adventure by leaving a slice of cheese out of the fridge for a bit and then warming up the sealed slice between your hands. This should the do the trick in turning the cheese into play dough consistency. Don’t feel like handling cheese? Look up “Flavordoh” for dogs.

2) Hide ‘Em in Hot Dogs

Many dogs won’t turn down hot dogs when offered and hot dog chunks are often big enough to hide the biggest capsules.

If you are concerned about sodium, look for the low-sodium variety or some of the healthier varieties.

Just as with cheese balls, it’s important to hide them well as all it takes is for the dog to detect the pill to start losing “trust” and even developing taste aversion which can lead to a dog refusing hot dogs even if he loved them all his life!

So make sure the pill doesn’t stick out of the chunk of hot dog and that the hot dog doesn’t break apart. If your dog ever happens to taste the hidden pill and all his alarm bells go off, scroll below for a few more tips on how to remedy this.

3) Hide ‘Em in Meatballs

If you’re not to eager about cheese ball or hot dogs, why not try meatballs? The best part is that you make them with different ingredients.

For instance, you can soak your dog’s kibble in water and then make a ball to hide the pill inside. You can use dog canned food as well. Dog having digestive problems? You can ask your vet about using something bland such as meat-based baby food with no onion or garlic mixed with some rice to make meatball to hide the pill.

What if you feed your dog raw food? If you feed your dog raw, you can easily make a meatball with ground meat or you can just tuck a pill into a chicken heart. For a gourmet version, you can coat the meat ball with a touch of grated cheese.

4) Go With Creamy Textures

Some creamy foods come extra handy in hiding pills as they stick well to the pill and the dog will hardly detect it, plus it’ s hard for the dog to separate the pill from these foods. And pitting the pill out is difficult when the creamy food sticks to a dog’s mouth!

What creamy foods are we talking about? Peanut butter is an option, but make sure it’s not one of these varieties which contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs. Cream cheese is another option and for dogs who love pumpkin or dogs who are constipated, plain pumpkin (not the pie variety with all the added spices) can also come handy.

Veterinarian Karen Becker also suggests using coconut oil to hide pills.

5) Make Savory Toppings

For this option, make sure you carefully read your dog’s medication label and enclosed instructions carefully as not all tablets should be crushed or capsules opened. If you’re not sure, it’s always best to consult with your vet.

If that’s fine, then you can simply sprinkle the ground tablet or content of a capsule onto your dog’s food in hopes that he’ll eat the whole concoction. This method may work with some dogs, mostly those dogs who gulp down food with no questions asked, but be aware that some finicky fellows may nit pick and separate the topping from the food, and even if you mix them throughout, you risk your dog refusing the whole meal.

Some dogs though will have no problems eating if the powder is well mixed within some tasty dog canned food. Also, it’s close to impossible separating the two once mixed!

6) Try Pill Pockets

Don’t feel like touching sticky foods or want a quick solution to conceal those pills? Pill Pockets are an option. Produced by Greenies, Pill Pockets are hollow treats sold at most veterinary offices nowadays and they come in tantalizing flavors such as chicken, peanut butter and hickory smoke. For allergic dogs, there’s even a hypoallergenic version made with duck and peas. How to use them? Simply place the pill inside the Pill Pocket, pinch it shut, and feed it to your dog. There are Pill Pockets for capsules and Pill Pockets for tablets.

Tip: have some nasty tasting pills ? You can also try inserting them into empty gel caps that are safe to use in dogs so to mask the bitter taste.

Troubleshooting Problems

OK, not always things go as planned. Your dog may be outsmarting you and you are not sure what to do next. Many dog owners have a hard time hiding pills in food, so rest assured, you’re not alone. Your dog may not eat all of the food in one sitting or the bitter medication can make the food taste bad. Don’t give up! Here are a few tips for those challenging cases. Consult with your vet if you cannot get your dog to get his pills no matter what.

What if Your Dog Discovers There’s a Pill Inside?
So your dog has been doing great taking pills and now he accidentally chewed up one and he is suspicious, carefully sniffing the food and looking at you as if saying “, Hey, who are you trying to trick?”

Here’s a way to solve the problem. Offer your dog a small piece of food WITHOUT the pill inside, just a small piece that he can sniff and see that there’s nothing inside. Let him eat it. Then, gradually give bigger and bigger pieces shaped as if there was a pill inside but always without the pill. Give them quickly in a row, praising lavishly for eating them. Then, within this series, casually offer a pill covered in the food, IMMEDIATELY followed by one without it.

Feed them one at a time as you show him the next piece coming. The secret is making him gulp the pill down in his eagerness to eat the next piece of food. Prepare these pieces in advance and lie them on a table so that you’re ready. Preferably feed them in an area away from the place where your dog discovered the bitter pill in the first place.

Another option if your dog loves catching food, is to toss the pieces of food in the air and letting him catch them with his mouth. As he’s catches the one with the pill, get his attention to another piece of food without the pill coming his way. In his eagerness to catch them and eat them, chances are, he won’t notice the pill. Some dogs will be more eager to get their “treat” if they’re asked to perform a behavior first such as doing a “sit” before being given the food-covered pill.

Did you know? According to research conducted by AAHA, the American Animal Hospital Association, the rate of compliance from dog owners giving their pets medications for chronic conditions is just 76 percent, which means an astounding 24% of pets aren’t being treated with the medications they need!

What If Your Dog is Sick and Won’t Eat?

If your dog has lost his appetite, or you need to give him a pill prior to surgery and he needs to be on an empty stomach, things can get challenging. In this latter case, ask your vet. Sometimes vets will allow you to give just a teeny piece of food if it’s only to give the pill. However, there may be pills you cannot give with food or your dog is strictly NPO (nothing by mouth). If your dog won’t eat or can’t eat, things can get more challenging.

Sure, you can always hold your dog’s muzzle upwards facing the ceiling while you quickly push the pill as back as possible while you gently massage your dog’s through to encourage him to swallow as seen in the video below, but this may not be easy with some dogs.

You can work in advance on making giving your dog pills relatively more acceptable by gradually conditioning your dog to associate a tasty treat every time you grasp and open his upper jaw. Chirag Patel of Domesticated Manners has a great video on getting dog used to having their mouth handled: Getting Ready for Vet Visit which can turn handy. Then, when the day comes to give your dog a pill, chances are, your dog may be more collaborative.

If this is your only option, make sure you praise your dog during and afterward and if your dog is healthy and active, you can even play a game with him. It’s important to ensure your dog swallows the pill, as some dogs astutely hide it in their mouth, only to spit it out later.

An alternate option is to use what’s known as a pill popper. It’s simply a syringe that delivers the pill, without the need to pry your dog’s mouth wide open to push the pill down.

Warning: If you are afraid your dog might bite you, skip this option and inform your vet! If worse comes to worse, you can always take your dog to the vet and have him or a technician administer the pill for you for a small fee. Don’t be ashamed to do so, it’s very important that your dog gets his medication! Alternatively, your vet may offer the option below if feasible.

Veterinarian Shows Different Ways to Give Dog a Pill

dog-pill Look for a Compounding Pharmacy

Wouldn’t it be great if bitter tasting pills could turn into tasty treats dogs won’t object to eating? Well, maybe it’s time to visit an apothecary! What is an apothecary? It’s simply a pharmacy that formulates and dispenses medications and specializing in compounding medications.

When working for the vet, I often referred owners of finicky cats and dogs to skilled pharmacists, and from what I heard they really did their magic. We used to refer to Pleasant Hills Apothecary back then, and they were even able to transform pills into transdermal gels that could be absorbed by the skin. Ask your vet if this is an option for you.
Wedgewood Pharmacy is a great place offering creative alternatives to bitter tasting pills. From gourmet tasting medications (Gourmeds) to medications smaller than a tic-tac® (Tiny Tabs) and melt-in-your-mouth options (Medi Melts) things are really on your side when it comes to getting compliance from your dog with these tasty options. Don’t have a compounding pharmacy near you? You can always look if your local Walmart, Walgreens or CVS pharmacy offers the Flavorx System for pets and ask your vet if the prescribed medication is eligible for that special touch…

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as substitute for professional veterinary or nutritional advice. If you need help giving your dog a pill, please consult with your vet for options.

References:

Albers J, DVM, Hardesty C.Compliance: Taking Quality Care to the Next Level, Lakewood, CO: AAHA Press; 2009:5
Psychology Today, How Good is Your Dog’s Sense of Taste, retrieved from the web on October 23rd, 2016

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Can A Litter of Puppies Have More Than One Father?

March 14, 2025October 22, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The appearance of a single pitch-black pup in a litter of immaculate white puppies might have people wondering whether it’s possible for puppies to have more than one father. Who’s your daddy, little pup? While you won’t find puppies taking paternity tests on the Maury or Jerry Springer show to help solve a family mystery, in dogs genetics may often pitch in and provide a plausible explanation. If you’re scratching your head in disbelief wondering whether Sophie, your purebred dam messed around with some determined mutt in the neighborhood, or if you’re plain curious, read on to discover a little more about the world of canine reproduction and genetics.

Monogamy, Not a Doggy Thing

The world of animals is populated by several romantic examples of monogamy coming from beavers, otters, foxes, bats and wolves , but dogs, even though related to wolves, are far from being monogamous beings. Why is that?

While dogs and wolves share the exact same number of chromosomes (78 arranged in 39 pairs) they are quite different beings, courtesy of the thousands of years separating them. Indeed, there are more than a dozen of differences between wolves and dogs which sets them apart. Many of these differences are due to domestication. Just as with dogs now shedding for the most part year-round rather than seasonally as they used to, domestication has likely also played a role in making them more promiscuous.

What’s the purpose of being monogamous in the wild? Most likely, monogamy offers some advantage in altricial species who give birth to young that are particularly vulnerable and benefit from extra parental supervision and protection.

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This remains the most commonly accepted explanation since offspring appear to have a better chance of surviving when both parents are involved in raising them, according to Live Science.

Did you know? When it comes to being faithful, urban coyotes win the title as most loyal partner. According to a study conducted by scientists with Colorado State University, “coyotes living in cities don’t ever stray from their mates, and stay with each other till death do them part.”

Wolf Versus Domestic Dog

According to Steven Lindsey, wolves tend to reach sexual maturity at around 22 months. Wolves are monogamous and females go into heat only once a year during peak breeding season giving birth to pups when the rigors of the winter are over.

When the wolf pups are born, they are in a helpless, underdeveloped state and are raised in their maternal dens so they are safe from predators.

Helping raise the pups is a family affair that involves the older siblings, aunts, and uncles and also the pups’ father. Since the pups are too young and vulnerable to venture out of their dens, it’s the job of dad and extended family to bring back to the pups tasty meals of regurgitated meat, according to The Field Museum.

When it comes to dogs though, things are quite different. Dogs are polygamous and female dogs can go into heat between 6 and 12 months of age and for the most part bi-annually (the basenji is an exception) pretty much at any time of the year. Female dogs are often willing to mate with multiple partners, given the opportunity. And when the puppies are born, they are raised in comfy, temperature-controlled whelping boxes. Dog owners have replaced the extended family that a dog’s ancestors relied on and are readily available for assistance. For many years, indeed dog owners have assisted with the whelping process, taking care of struggling pups and, instead of regurgitating food, weaning pups are provided with a nice bowl of puppy mush! How’s that for convenience?

“Wolves breed only once a year, during the winter months so the pups will be born in the spring, when food is plentiful and the weather less severe. The season begins in late December and proceeds until late February or early March.”~Wolf Education and Research Center

The Making of A Multi-Sired Litter

So we know for a fact that dogs are polygamous. Indeed, for centuries, humans have been selectively breeding male dogs with multiple females and females with multiple males. With females, though things can get tricky, so for those folks professionally breeding, it’s best to let them breed with only one particular male during a heat cycle and then keep’em under strict supervision as accidents have been known to happen even under the nose of the most observant and responsible breeders.

If allowed to breed with multiple males, a female dog may therefore give life to what’s known as a multi-sired litter or dual-sired litter. Here’s a little sneak peak into what happens.

When a female is in heat, she produces several ova (eggs) that are readily available to be fertilized for several days. Since one ovum (egg) and one sperm is all it takes to make an embryo and ova are released over a 24 hour time span, Sophie can have some eggs fertilized by Romeo and then some others fertilized by Homer, giving life to a litter of pups fathered by different dogs. So yes, puppies can have more than one father, meaning that within the same litter, some puppies may be sired by one male while the rest may be sired by another, but never both.

It can therefore be quite upsetting for a breeder, who paid a nice amount of money for stud services (so that Princess the purebred poodle could be mated with handsome Happy jack, a multi-champion poodle) to discover that Scruffy the neighbor’s mutt was able to breed with Princess a day later when she escaped the yard. The breeder may therefore not be too enthusiastic when he discovers 63 days that Princess gave birth to a part purebred, part mixed-bred litter!

The Truth Comes Out

If you really need to know whether you’re dealing with a multi-sired litter, you can skip all the drama associated with a lie detector test and instead invest in a good dog DNA testing kit for dogs which should be able to tell you whether your female dog had an “affair” with more than one dog. Some DNA test should be also helpful in matching up the DNA of a particular puppy with the DNA of a suspected biological father. With this proof in hand, you can therefore register a multi-sired litter and provide the proof to any buyers.

Did you know? Some breeders purposely breed their female dog to two different studs either because of poor-quality or low sperm count or so to attain more genetic diversity without having to breed too many times. These multi-sired litters can even be registered with the American Kennel Club under “Multi-sired litter registration” as long as both parent dogs are purebred breeds and all criteria are met including proof of parentage determined through the AKC’s DNA Profile Program.

References:

The Field Museum, Dedicated Animal Dads That Care for Their Young, retrieved from the web on October 22nd, 2016
International Wolf Center, Wolf Families. retrieved from the web on October 22nd, 2016
American Kennel Club, Stud Double, retrieved from the web on October 22nd, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Petful, Bride and Groom Dogs, CCBY2.0
Sally Wehner, DSC04988 CCBY2.0

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Interesting Facts About Dog Grooming

March 14, 2025October 21, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Dogs are often brushed, combed and taken to grooming salons, but dog lovers may often miss out learning some interesting facts about dog grooming. A dog’s fur is made of keratin, the same protein that’s also present in hair, feathers, hoofs, claws and horns. Since dogs come in so many different shapes and sizes, it’s normal that they also have different types of coats which need different types of care. We may assume that dog grooming is just to for cosmetic appeal, but in reality, it has to do with health, and a whole lot too! Here are some fascinating facts about dog grooming that’ll hopefully help quench your thirst for canine knowledge and alongside help you discover something new too!

Dog Fur Grows in Stages…

Did you know? Just like in people, a dog’s coat tends to grow in stages and different hairs are in different stages. This is a good thing, because if the hair follicles were all in the same phase at the same time, people and dogs would quickly become bald! Let’s take a closer look at these stages of dog hair growth.

The anagen stage is what takes place when your dog’s fur is actively growing. The catagen stage is an intermediate transitional stage that signals the end of the active growth stage, meaning that the fur has reached its genetically determined length. The telogen stage is the resting, dormant stage during which nothing really happens, and finally there’s the exogen stage when dog owners start to despair as dog’s coat start actively shedding…a lot.

The University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine tells us that most dogs’ coats are for the most part in a telogen-predominant cycle. The anagen stage is brief, and once the coat reaches its genetically determined length, it cycles into the telogen stage until it dies, falling off the dog and right onto the floor, clothing and furniture.

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Because the coats of these dogs move rapidly to the dying and falling off stage, they are therefore shedding quite often, more than many dog owners may expect.

And Yes, Shedding is a Year-Round Affair

Many dog owners are frustrated when they notice that their dogs aren’t the “seasonal shedders” as they thought, but rather shed their coats all year long.

“Shouldn’t Fluffy be shedding her winter and summer coat just twice a year?”

Nope, this may have been true in the old days when dogs lived outdoors all the time and were subjected to a variety of seasonal temperature variations, points out Billy Rafferty an award-winning pet stylist and Certified Master Groomer in the book “Happy Dog: Caring for Your Dog’s Body, Mind and Spirit.”

The temperature-controlled environments most domestic dogs are subjected to live in nowadays has therefore managed to fool Mother Nature causing changes to their natural shedding patterns.

“Unless Fido is planning on taking frequent extended vacations in Antarctica to live with a pod of wild elephant seals, he will not experience true seasonal shedding.”~Billy Rafferty, Jill Cahr.

Some Dogs Grow “Hair “Instead of Fur..

Did you know? Some dogs have “hair” instead of fur. There is technically no difference in composition between hair and fur, so what makes these dogs so different?

It’s ultimately a matter of the pattern of growth. Hair in these dogs doesn’t shed like in other dogs because their hairs have a longer growing cycle (anagen phase). So the hair keeps on growing until it either dies or is cut, further explains Bill Rafferty.

As much as this sounds like good news, (less shedding anyone?), it has its own downside. Since the hair keeps growing, instead of most of it making it to the ground like normal dog fur would, it ends up getting trapped within the coat, intertwining with other hairs.

The outcome? A predisposition for paving the path to tangled and matted messes if these dogs are not routinely brushed and clipped. So the money you may save in lint rollers, you end up spending at the grooming salon.

What dog breeds have “hair” instead of fur? Here is a brief list: bearded collies, Lhasa apsos, coton de Tulear, Havanese, Tibetan terriers, Maltese, shih tzus and Yorkshire terriers. These are just a few of several dog breeds with hair instead of fur.

But Matted Hair is a Big Problem…

All dogs need regular grooming but as mentioned, some dogs need this more frequently than others to prevent annoying tangling and matting.

Mats are densely tangled clumps of hair that are not only unsightly, but painful and even dangerous too!

First of all, matted hair is difficult to comb, and dogs may start associating your grooming with pain, up until the point they may try to wiggle away or even get defensive. You don’t want this to happen!

Secondly, matted hair traps moisture which can lead to severe inflammation and even skin infections triggered by bacteria and yeast entities that thrive in such an environment.

In very severe cases, matted hair can cut off blood supply to extremities, cause a fecal impaction, or even cause fly larvae such as maggots to inhabit the dog’s skin.

And third, in order to remove tight mats things get quite delicate, a groomer will need to use a very low blade to get under the mat and cut it off and this can lead to razor burns, serious skin irritation or even a serious cut should the dog move at the wrong moment, according to Best in Show Grooming Salon. For this reason, many grooming salons will not accepted severely matted dogs, but would rather refer to a veterinary practice.

And So Are Ear Hematomas…

Sometimes mats may form over a dog’s ears, and these can cause complications after being removed.

Mats restrict blood flow and after having the mats removed from the ears, a quick rush of blood will reach the vessels, and since the tissue has weakened, it can cause “bleeding out,” explains Debi Hilley, a former competitive groomer in her blog.

Sometimes, after being groomed, getting the ears cleaned or having hairs of the ears plucked out, dogs may feel compelled to shake their head. Excessive shaking may cause what’s known as an “ear hematoma” the swelling of the dog’s ear flaps from filling up with blood.

To prevent this, Best in Show Grooming Salon suggests for small dogs, cutting the end off of a sock and putting it over the dog’s ears in a hoodie-like fashion, just tight enough to prevent the dog’s ears from flapping, but loose enough, that the dog can move around comfortably. Alternatively, owners may invest in what groomers use: a product known as a “Happy Hoodie”

“In the case of pets with heavy matting removed from the ears, it is not uncommon for the pet to shake the head so aggressively as to cause the formation of hematomas (bleeding bruises) at the edges of the ear flaps. This happens frequently in cocker spaniels and other breeds with drop ears.”~Town and Country Veterinary Care

Seeing the Groomer Can Be Stressful…

Let’s face it: a trip to the groomer can be a stressful event for many dogs. It’s often inevitable for some level of unpleasantness to be associated with those visits. Baths, nail trims, blow dryers, noisy clippers, proximity to other dogs or people, being handled, restraint and the mere fact of being in a place away from home and separated from their families, all may play a role.

According to findings from a study, the grooming shop can be stressful for dogs for the entire duration of the grooming session but also during the the arrival up until the exit.

It’s therefore, for a good part, the responsibility of staff at grooming facilities to take extra care in minimizing the stress from these visits. There are several things grooming staff can do to make visits less stressful such as giving arriving dogs a cookie (with the owner’s permission) and letting the dog approach them first rather than the other way around, suggest Daniel Estep, Ph.D. and Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D. in an article for the Rocky Mountain News.

But There are Many Things Dog Owners Can Do

Dog owners can take a proactive approach to making those visits to the groomer more pleasant. For instance, stopping by the salon frequently just for getting treats by the staff, may help dogs familiarize themselves with the place and people. These “mock” visits are to create positive associations.

If your dog already is uncomfortable going to the groomer, these visits may help “compensate” the dog’s negative prediction of being dropped off there or having something unpleasant done. The action of entering the salon can also be put on a positive cue, such as saying in an upbeat tone “let’s visit our friends!”

Most of all, dog owners can take a proactive approach by recognizing what components of the grooming session triggers the most anxiety. Is it the car ride? Is it being around strangers? Is it being touched in certain areas? Do certain noises make him anxious? Does your dog hate the slippery table? Tip: a non-slip mat may help. Once recognized the stimulus or stimuli that cause stress, dog owners can then help their dogs better tolerate them by letting the dog associate them with tasty treats.

For example, if your dog doesn’t like to have his ears handled, start touching him in an area nearby that he doesn’t mind much, and pair a cue, like “ears,” with the gentle touch in that area giving a tasty treat during and then immediately after handling the area. Then, start gradually moving more and more towards the ear area, taking a step back in the process if the dog ever appears uncomfortable. Of course, use caution, if your dog ever seems defensive, avoid doing this and consult with a behavior professional.

There are also several calming aids that can help dogs relax more during these visits. DAP collars, the Happy Hoodie, Thunder Cap, not to mention natural calming supplements that your vet may recommend. Also,it might be useful to train your dog to accept wearing a muzzle, that way, he’ll readily comply if the needs for wearing one at the vet or groomer ever arises.

References:

The University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine, What do we know about the hair cycle in dogs? retrieved from the web on Oct 21st, 2016.
Pet Education, Skin & Hair Anatomy & Function in Dogs, retrieved from the web on Oct 21st, 2016.
Evaluation of dog welfare before and after a professional grooming session Chiara Mariti 1, *, Scighei Bein2 1 Department of Veterinary Science, University of Pisa – Italy 2

Photo Credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, Arpit Gupt, it’s going to be hairy few months, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Kathy Junk Yard dog, I felt sorry for this guy his fur was so matted. CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, maplegirlie, IMG_1379[1] CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Barry Dog Groomer CCBY2.0

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Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Fish, Acetone, Ammonia Etc.

March 14, 2025October 20, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Most people are aware of the fact that dogs can use their powerful sniffers to detect serious diseases in humans such as diabetes and even cancer, but not many dog owners are aware of the fact that they can also put their noses to work and return the favor when a dog’s breath smells weird. Sure, our noses aren’t sensitive enough to detect diseases at their earliest stages like dogs do, but we surely can identify signs of illnesses in our dogs if we are attentive enough and don’t fall into the trap of chalking them up as “normal canine odors.” Following are several odors in dog breath owners may detect that should warrant an emergency vet visit in the most serious cases, or at the most, a veterinary check-up to ensure everything is fine in the health department.

What Does Normal Dog Breath Smell Like?

First, what does normal dog breath smell like? This is a very good question. Usually, normal dog breath doesn’t have a particular odor. Just as in people, a healthy mouth shouldn’t give off any particularly strong odors.

Many dog owners indeed, notice quite a difference after their dogs go in for a dental cleaning, as suddenly, all the bad odors are gone.

It’s a common myth that bad breath in dogs is normal, so much so that it has even been given a nickname: “doggy breath.”

This misconception is so widespread that Greenies, a company that makes dental treats for dogs, found that 28 million owners believe that it’s normal for their pets to have bad breath!

So yes, if your dog has bad breath it’s not normal! Don’t fall into the trap of thinking all dog breath has an odor.

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“Bad breath is a sure sign of significant oral infection and, while there are other causes, periodontal disease is by far the number 1 cause of halitosis.” ~Dr. Brook A. Niemiec, a board-certified veterinary dentist.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Fish?

Unless your dog had sardines for dinner or you mistakenly brushed his teeth with anchovy paste rather than his regular toothpaste, there should really be no reason for you dog’s breath to smell like fish.

Yet, your dog’s breath undoubtedly smells like shrimp or rotten fish, what’s going on?

One may understand if you recently fed your dog some fish pills, or some fish meal or salmon-based kibble, but if that’s not the case, you may still be scratching your head wondering where in the world that fish smell is coming from.Well, here’s a possibility…and it involves..ehm.. the opposite end.

Dogs have two glands called anal glands that are located around the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock position around the rectum. Sometimes these anal glands produce a secretion that has a strong fishy odor.

If these glands happen to be impacted, or infected, dogs will lick their bottoms and therefore the fishy smell of these glands will transfer to the dog’s mouth, explains veterinarian Dr. Rebecca.

Course of action: normally, a dog’s anal glands should empty on their own when dogs pass feces, but if the dog produces soft stools, the anal glands may become full and uncomfortable. It’s best to have the dog’s anal glands checked by a vet to rule out any problems. Anal gland problems in dogs can cause discomfort, and repeated licking and scooting are often signs of trouble. Sometimes, dogs may require the vet to empty those glands which is very minor and quick procedure.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Acetone?

If your dog’s breath smells like nail polish remover, you may wonder where that smell comes from. No, dogs don’t paint their nails unless we subject them to that, and they won’t be using any nail polish remover. Instead, the issue can be quite serious.

A dog’s breath that smells like acetone can actually be indicative of diabetes. When a dog has diabetes, his body lacks insulin necessary to break down sugar as it’s supposed to. Since the body needs sugar as a source of energy, it will therefore move on to plan B to get the fuel it needs and this entails breaking down fat as an alternative.

When fat is metabolized, ketones are produced and one of the ketones is acetone. Since it’s a volatile compound, it can be excreted by the lungs, hence why a dog’s breath may smell like acetone or nail polish remover. Some dog owners describe their dog’s breath smelling like rubbing alcohol, pear drop candies or chemicals.

Course of action: dog owners need to be aware of a complication of diabetes known as diabetic ketoacidosis. Diabetic ketoacidosis in dogs typically causes symptoms of increased thirst, increased urination, weight loss, sudden blindness, vomiting, weakness, dehydration and breath that smells like acetone, explains veterinarian Dr. Debra Primovic. Affected dogs require prompt IV fluid therapy to stabilize them and insulin around the clock to get that blood sugar under control. So yes, see the vet ASAP.

“In these cases, animals in this state tend to need emergency care. Often we can stabilize them with IV fluid therapy, insulin, and by treating the GI signs as well. I must note that when we treat these cases in DKA, their prognosis is very guarded and the longer left in this stage the poorer that prognosis for survival becomes.” ~Dr. B.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Ammonia?

At times, dog owners may notice an odor similar to ammonia in their dog’s breath. Some dog owners describe their dog’s breath as smelling like urine.

Kidney problems have been known for causing an ammonia smell in both the breath of dogs and humans, but what causes this smell in the first place?

An ammonia-like smell in a dog’s breath can be indicative of the kidneys not removing toxins as they normally should. This causes urea levels to increase and since urea is converted to ammonia, that explains why it gives the terrible breath, explains veterinarian Dr. Gabby.

“The ammonia breath is something we can see with dogs that are in kidney failure. The ammonia is not excreted in the urine, so they end up having to breath it out to help get rid of it.”~Dr. Gary

Course of action: Kidney problems need to be addressed early as possible as things can progress quickly. Affected dogs usually show other symptoms on top of the urine-smelling breath such as loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, fever, increased or decreased urination and inflammation of the tongue. Best to get blood work done ASAP, suggests Dr. Gary.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Trash/Sewer?

Dog owners may get quite creative when it comes to describing the foul odor coming from a dog’s mouth.” My dog’s breath smells like trash”, “my dog’s breath smells like rotten garbage’, and one of our favorites: “my dog’s breath smells like sewer or roadkill.” Regardless of how you describe it, it just means your dog’s breath is terribly foul. And no, Rover didn’t likely go dumpster diving in the middle of the night, as the fellows in the picture did!

Often, a rotten, foul breath in dogs can be indicative of severe periodontal disease, the deterioration of a dog’s gums which can progress to inflammation, infection and even tooth loss.

A tooth abscess or presence of an oral tumor can also contribute to dog breath with a sickening smell. “Don’t just chalk it up to doggie breath,” says veterinarian Dr. Berg.

Course of Action: take you dog to the vet for a thorough check-up. Ongoing studies estimate that about 90 percent of dogs have some level of periodontal disease by the age of one, according to Today’s Veterinary Practice. Therefore the older the dog, the higher the chances for a great level of disease going on. While oral tumors aren’t as common, they are often missed by dog owners as they’re often in the back of the dog’s mouth, in hard to inspect areas. Also, not always bad breath comes from the mouth, it can come from any part of the dog’s upper digestive tract, which can be concerning and worthy of having checked out.

The Bottom Line

As seen, dogs may develop bad breath for several reasons. If you know what your dog’s normal breath smells like (such as right after getting a dental cleaning) then you have a baseline that helps you readily recognize abnormal odors from your dog’s mouth which may be attributed to potential health problems.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has bad breath or you notice an unusual odor, please see your vet for advice and treatment.

References:

Veterinary Practice News, Debunking Common Myths About Periodontal Disease, retrieved from the web on October 20, 2016
Fiorellini JP, Ishikawa SO, Kim DM. Clinical features of gingivitis. Carranza’s Clinical Periodontology. St. Louis: WB Saunders, 2006, pp 362-372.
Meitner SW, Zander H, Iker HP, et al. Identification of inflamed gingival surfaces. J Clin Periodontol 1979; 6:93.
Tufts Your Dog, Clues to Your Dog’s Health Can Be Just a Whiff Away, retrieved from the web on October 20th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, USFWS Fish and Aquatic Conservation, CCBY.20
Flickr, Creative Commons, Don Hankins, Boston Terrier Pedicure, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, OakleyOriginals, Trash Dogs, CCBY2.0

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Dog Word of the Day: Microchip

March 14, 2025October 19, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Technology today has advanced quite a lot and it’s not surprising if the use of identifying integrated circuits through the use of a microchip has involved dogs. Microchips, implanted for the purpose of reducing the number of lost dogs, has become a quite popular practice nowadays, but it’s important to know several facts about microchipping dogs such as the how microchip work, whether they are painful to implant, how much they cost, what to do when you must change address and any dangers associated with microchip implantation in dogs.

How Dog Microchip Work

Microchip basically consist of an identifying integrated circuit that’s implanted under the dog’s skin. A microchip uses what’s known as passive Radio Frequency Identification technology (RFID).

What does a dog microchip look like? The chip is about the size of a grain of rice and is enclosed in bio-compatible glass. It’s small enough to fit through a hollow hypodermic needle.

Typically, microchip are implanted between the dog’s shoulder blades by a veterinarian using a syringe as when giving a vaccination. However, instead of injecting antigens, the hollow needle, which is larger than the average needle used for vaccines, implants the chip.

The chip contains a unique ID number encoded into its integrated circuit. It is meant to be scanned through a handheld microchip scanner which animal control officers, shelters and veterinary offices carry.

When the chip is scanned, it reveals the identification number and the phone number of the registry for the particular brand of chip, as long as the dog owner correctly registered the dog with the chip manufacturer, distributor or pet recovery service.

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Did you know? Registering the dog is the most important step in the microchip process. Failure to register a dog with a microchip means that should the dog get lost, the shelter may not be able to trace the dog back to his owners. A chip without contact information is basically useless, yet some people forget to do this!

Handheld Scanner Concerns

Something to be aware of is that sometimes, for some reason or another, certain scanners may not be able to properly read certain microchip.

Microchip are inert objects that are only activated by a certain radio frequency broadcast by the scanner. The scanner must therefore send a specific radio signal of a certain frequency to read the chip

If that radio frequency doesn’t match the specific frequency of radio wave necessary to activate the microchip, the scanner won’t read it.

While today, more and more microchip manufacturers are trying to craft their microchip in such a way to that all scanners can read them (e.g universal scanners), some can only be read by specific scanners, which can create problems.

For example, some scanners may only detect 134.2 kHz ISO standard microchips, but might not detect the 125 kHz or 128 kHz non-ISO standard microchips. Fortunately though, most microchips can be read after trying different scanners.

“I can think of a couple of cases over my career where the client said they had a microchip and I couldn’t find it with my universal scanner. In those cases I recommended going back to the shelter or vet who implanted the chip and have them scan it with one of their scanners.” ~Dr. Chris Bern

warning caution Did you know? Microchips are not foolproof, sometimes they aren’t read well because of incorrect scanning technique, presence of matted hair covering the chip, excess body fat and a collar with a lot of metal interfering, warns veterinarian Dr. Mary Fuller.

Dog Microchip Health Concerns

As with anything “foreign” item introduced to a dog’s body, there are chances the microchip may be “rejected” or that it may cause trouble.

Both in humans and dogs, there are chances that the immune system may react to metals and other inorganic materials.

A series of studies published between 1996 and 2006, found a potential link between implanted microchips and cancer in laboratory animals. The research found that between 1 and 10 percent of microchipped mice and rat developed fast-growing sarcomas, fibrosarcomas, and other invasive cancers closeby or around the microchip.

In dogs, there have been two confirmed cases of cancer developing from microchip implants. While these are small statistics, they are worth considering and it’s important to balance out the chances of possibly losing a pet from escape versus possibly losing a pet to cancer. The WSAVA Microchip Committee came to the conclusion that the benefits of microchip outweighs the potential health risks.¹

“The evidence does suggest some reason to be concerned about tumor formations.”~Dr. Chand Khanna, veterinary oncologist.

Dog Microchip Pain

Does microchip implantation hurt? We found several websites say that it hurts no more than a vaccination, but we think this varies on an individual basis.

As people, dogs have different pain tolerance levels. For instance, one of our dogs yelped in pain when the microchip was implanted, while our other didn’t even notice it.

According to Chewelah Veterinary Clinic, a 12 to 14 gauge needle is used for microchip implantation which is roughly the size of a belly button ring piercing.

What options do dog owners have if they are concerned about pain? They can ask for a local anesthetic or they can alternatively have the implantation done while the dog is under anesthesia such as a during a spay or neuter surgery or dental cleaning.

“At my practice we would never even consider microchipping without some local anesthetic… No matter what you have been told, the procedure hurts — the chip is inserted with a really big 12-gauge needle!”~Dr. Karen Becker

Things to Consider

While a microchip can work wonders for re-uniting a lost dog to his family, it’s still important for the dog to wear his collar and ID tags. Why is that? For the simple fact that most people do not have a handheld scanner to find your contact information. So unless, they bring the dog to a shelter or veterinarian, they may never know who the dog belongs to.

The first thing most people do when they find a lost dog is to check the collar and tags. If your dog wears a collar and tags with information on it, you’re more likely to get a phone call from people who have found him rather than taking him to the shelter. It might also be a good idea to have the dog wear a tag with the chip number and registry phone number, just in case.

What happens to your dog’s microchip if you must move? In that case, you will need to update your contact information by contacting the chip manufacturer, distributor or registry. Usually, this is done for a fee so that they can process the new information.

Did you know? Microchip have a tendency to occasionally “migrate” moving to other areas of the dog’s body away from the original implantation site. For this reason, it’s important to pass the scanner all over the dog’s body so to detect it.

The Bottom Line

Every year, thousands of dogs are lost and many are not re-united with their owners. When dogs without ID tags or microchip end up in a shelter, they risk being adopted out or even euthanized, if they cannot be traced back to their owners in a timely matter, points out veterinarian Dr. Concannon..

Also, should a dog escape and get hit by a car and a good Samaritan brings the dog to a vet, the microchip’s information may allow veterinarians to get in touch with the owners quickly for approval of life-saving procedures such as emergency surgery.

Microchip are ultimately the best form of identification presently available. They stay in place for the life of the dog while collars and tags can eventually come off or be lost.They don’t require a surgical procedure to implant and are also fairly cheap to implant. The average microchip implantation for dogs costs between 25 and 50 dollars with the registration generally ranging from 30 to 45 dollars. Some shelters offer free microchip implantation when a pet is adopted.

While a microchip does not have GPS capability to locate a missing pet, as of today, microchips remain the best option for re-uniting dogs with their beloved owners. It’s up to dog owners therefore to make an informed decision about whether it’s something they want to consider.

References

Todd Lewan, “Chip Implants Linked to Animal Tumors.” Associated Press. September 8, 2007.
Blanchard, KT, et al. “Transponder-induced sarcoma in the heterozygous p53+/- mouse.” Toxicologic Pathology. 1999;
Tillmann, T, et al. “Subcutaneous soft tissue tumours at the site of implanted microchips in mice.” Experimental and Toxicologic Pathology. 1997;49:197200.
Albrecht, K. “Microchip-Induced Tumors in Laboratory Rodents and Dogs: A Review of the Literature 1990-2006.”
Microchip Implants, Answers to Frequently Asked Questions, Katherine Albrecht, retrieved from the web on October 19th, 2016
Microchip-Induced Tumors in Laboratory Rodents and Dogs: A Review of the Literature 1990–2006, Katherine Albrecht retrieved from the web on October 19th, 2016
World Small Animal Veterinary Association, WSAVA microchip survey results – Nov. 2002

Photo Credits:

An RFID chip (also known as PIT tag) next to a grain of rice. No machine-readable author provided. Light Warrior assumed (based on copyright claims). – No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims). Public Domain
Example of an RFID scanner used with animal microchip implants.Oscar111 -RFID scanner Public Domain
A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

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