Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

What’s Up with Dogs Swallowing Kibble Without Chewing?

March 20, 2025November 17, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Let’s face it: when it comes to eating, dogs are quite fast eaters, often swallowing their kibble whole without chewing as if there’s no tomorrow, what gives? The behavior is actually not unusual; indeed, on Puppy Planet, there are likely more dogs eating fast than eating slow if ever some statistics on dog eating times were ever collected.

Slow dining, as to savoring a morsel at a time, is something not popular in the world of canines, but dogs seem to have their own good reasons for wolfing down their chow.

A Look Back

If your dog is swallowing his kibble whole without chewing don’t be too fast to label him as greedy, turns out dogs have some good reasons for their behavior and it stems from their evolutionary past.

In the old days, dogs were not fed bags of kibble from shiny bowls. A dog’s ancestors were hunting and scavenging for food and eating fast was necessary for several reasons.

Feast or famine was a real thing, so there were times with little to no food and then there were times after a hunt where there was an abundance of food. After going through lean times, a dog’s ancestors were eating fast because they were very hungry. However, eating fast wasn’t only because of that.

If in the old days a dog’s ancestors were eating slow, this could have meant losing access to their food. Most likely if the food wasn’t gobbled up in a timely manner, another canine or some other competitor animal would have gladly finished it up. On top of that, eating slow in the wild is risky business considering that it puts animals in a vulnerable position which can mean becoming dinner to other larger predators!

Curious fact: Statistics show that ravens get to eat more meat from a wolf kill, than the wolves themselves, explains Toni Shelbourne in the book “The truth about wolves and dogs.” No wonder why wolves are eager to eat fast, hence the term “wolfing your food.”

Designed for Fast Eating

Even if we look at dog anatomy, we will notice a body that is designed for fast eating.

Molars are teeth that are used for grinding. In herbivores, like the horse, the canine teeth are small or non-existent, while the molars are broad and flat because they are plant eaters and must grind grains and plant materials with their side-to-side jaw movements.

In omnivores, like us humans, since both meat and plants are consumed, teeth include a combination of incisors, canines, pre-molars and molars used for grinding also in a somewhat sideways motion.

Dogs, even though not obligate carnivores like the cat, have overall a body designed to eat meat. A dog’s teeth are designed for ripping and tearing meat and their jaws mostly move in an up-and-down motion. Dogs also don’t have flat molars as herbivores and omnivores do. Dogs are therefore not designed to chew as much as some other animals and that’s a main reason why they end up swallowing their kibble whole.

On top of not having molars designed for grinding, dogs do not produce amylase, an enzyme meant to digest starches, in their saliva. This is because food doesn’t stay long in their mouth, and therefore the amylase isn’t necessary to start digestion, explains veterinarian Ernie Ward in the book “Chow Hounds: Why Our Dogs Are Getting Fatter -A Vet’s Plan to Save Their Lives.” Instead, dogs produce amylase in their digest tract so starches can be digested there at their own leisure. This is just one of the many things that differentiate dogs from wolves.

Finally, dogs might not feel much compelled to eating fast because of their taste buds. With only about 2,000 taste buds on their tongues, compared to our 9,000, why would dogs feel motivated to savor their food if the flavor is going to be just bland?

” Human saliva contains an enzyme called amylase, which starts breaking down starches as soon as food hits the mouth. Dog drool doesn’t have this advantage, but dogs do excrete amylase from their pancreases, allowing for the digestion of starches in the gut.”~Live Science

Did you know? One of the reasons why dogs do not get cavities as humans do, is perhaps because of how their teeth are designed. Since dogs have fewer pits and fissures on the surface of their teeth, cavity causing bacteria and food particles are less likely to stick to them as they would on teeth with many indentations. Source: Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine

A Word About Multi-Dog Households

Eating fast is particularly common in households with multiple dogs. The reason being that dogs may feel more competitive when around other dogs and this may cause them to feel more compelled to gobble up and swallow their kibble without chewing as fast as they can.

As their food is being prepared, there is a strong build in anticipation as all the dogs eagerly wait for their bowls to be filled. Then when it’s time to eat, it’s almost sort of like a race against time between the dogs as to who finishes first.

The dogs in this case are likely concerned about other dogs finishing up first and approaching their bowl. It might have happened in the past that a dog who finished first got near their bowl and these dogs may have “learned their lesson” and sped up their eating.

In these cases, some dog owners find that putting more distance between the dogs or feeding them in completely separate areas where they can’t see or hear each other can help slow them down. This makes for a more relaxed feeding.

” If you have other pets in the house, including other dogs, your canine pal may want to insure that he gets his share before someone else helps himself. For other dogs, it may not be the actual presence of a second dog or, say, a cat but a throwback to his days as a puppy — a subconscious reminder of having to compete with his littermates for his mother’s milk.”~Tufts University

Underlying Health Problem

If your dog has suddenly started gulping down his food like there’s no tomorrow, sometimes this can be indicative of a health problem.

For instance, a dental problem can lead to pain chewing and therefore a dog may decide that’s it’s less painful to just swallow the kibble whole. Dogs who have misaligned teeth (a malocclusion) may also swallow their kibble whole, but this is generally something that shouldn’t happen out of the blue.

If a dog suddenly develops ravenous appetite this is something that should be investigated as well. Conditions that could cause a voracious appetite in dogs include diabetes and Cushing’s disease, explains veterinarian Dr. Fiona.

Did you know? The medical term for increased consumption of food is “polyphagia.” The term comes from polys which means “much” and phagein which means “to eat.”

Associated Health Risks

While it’s natural for dogs to be predisposed to be swallowing their kibble whole, this practice can have several health repercussions.

If you own a large, deep chested dog, eating too fast can predispose him to develop life threatening bloat from swallowing too much air. The excess air causes the stomach to swell up and it risks twisting on itself, a condition that’s known as gastric dilatation volvulus. While bloat affects mostly large dogs, medium dogs and smaller dogs can also be affected at times.

Another risk associated with dogs swallowing their kibble whole is choking. This is something that can be worrisome obviously as it can turn life threatening.

On a lighter note, dogs who eat quickly and swallow their kibble may develop digestive problems under the form of hiccups, burping, flatulence, vomiting and regurgitation. When the dog eats too fast, the stomach cannot keep up with the workload and may just bring the food back up within a few minutes.

A Few Tips

A lot of dogs swallow their kibble whole and this generally isn’t much concerning as most dogs can swallow their kibble whole without getting ill, what is concerning though is eating too fast. Dogs who swallow their kibble whole and eat fast may benefit from learning to slow down a bit. This can be accomplished in several ways. Here are a few tips:

You can try feeding multiple times a day so that your dog gets to eat a smaller amount at a time.
You can place some tennis balls in his food bowl so he’s forced to eat around them.
You can try scattering his food on a cookie sheet, which makes it harder for him to grasp much at once.
You can hide his food inside a Kong or other interactive toy.
You can place his food in small amounts in several food bowls.
You can invest in a Brake-Fast bowl or other bowl made for fast eating dogs.
You can play fun games such as making a path of kibble or hiding his kibble in several areas of the house.

References:

VCA Animal Hospitals, Fast Eating Can Lead To Serious Problems in Dogs, retrieved from the web on November 15th, 2016
Tufts Your Dog, Does Your Dog Eat too Fat? retrieved from the web on November 15th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Georgie Pauwels, Dinner for One, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, PRO WonderlaneRose, a puppy, chewing on a bone, south U District near the Montlake Cut, Seattle, Washington, USA CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Antique Dog Photos, Feed the dogs, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, BuzzFarmers Dog played with his food. CCBY2.0

Dog Word of the Day: Flooding

March 14, 2025November 16, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

What does flooding mean? In the world of dogs, there are a variety of terms that may seem to be quite technical, but technical doesn’t necessarily have to mean difficult to understand.

Don’t be discouraged by intimidating terms and don’t let them get into the way of learning more about your canine companion!

The concept behind several terms is often straightforward and quite easy to comprehend once explained in simple words.

Flooding is one term that is often used by dog behavior professionals, but it is a term that is very easy to understand once explained in layman’s terms.

On top of that, learning more about flooding in dog psychology can help you better manage your dog’s environment so to avoid exposing him to overwhelming situations.

Flooding in Dog Psychology

The term flooding is often used by dog behavior professionals, but this term actually stems from a form of behavior therapy that has been used in human psychology for quite some time.

To be exact this psycho-therapeutic technique was based on concepts crafted by psychologist Thomas Stampfl back in 1967. Flooding has therefore been used as a strategy for treating anxiety disorders and phobias for quite some time and it is still used in behavior therapy today.

Phobias are unreasonable fears to non-threatening stimuli and situations that cause a disproportionate sense of mortal danger that gets in the way of everyday life.

As much as flooding has been used for many years and may appear as a fast way to rid people of fear, therapists have been questioning whether its use is ethical. This is due to its application which can be traumatic and the associated risks for the fear to spontaneously recur.

In the world of dogs, flooding has been used as well using similar behavior therapy principles, but as in flooding in people, its effectiveness and potential for increasing fear makes it as well a questionable option.

For this reason, flooding as a treatment plan for a fearful dogs is technique that is not recommended by many dog behavior professionals.

Becoming more accustomed with the term flooding can be helpful so that you can learn how to avoid inadvertently putting your dog into a “flooding situation” and learn alternate options to deal with your dog’s fears.

A Closer Insight

If you are terrified of spiders, would you be willing to be locked in a room full of them? If your biggest phobia is talking in front of a crowd, how would you feel if you were forced to do a speech in front of an audience consisting of hundreds of people?

And how about being tossed in a pool when you are afraid of water? Well, that’s somewhat what happens in flooding in the way it is applied to dogs.

In flooding, dogs are forced to face their biggest fears by direct, in-vivo exposure.

While avoiding fearful situations may make a person or dog feel safe and therefore feels reinforcing to do so, it ultimately doesn’t teach anything.

Advocates therefore find that, by using flooding, there may be chances that direct exposure might accomplish at least something, making it worthy of trying.

The main principle behind flooding is that after feeling the panic for a while, with its associated fight or flight response, the body at some point must start going back to a state of normalcy (homeostasis).

Once the body reaches this state of reduced fear or normalcy, the person may come to realize that the stimulus or situation is not as threatening as thought.

So in the case of being locked in a room of spiders, after feeling the sheer terror of the experience, the person at some point may come to realize that he is still alive and that being around those eight-legged critters is not as bad as thought after all.

The Problem with Flooding Dogs

While the principle behind flooding may make sense, its effects as one may imagine can be quite damaging and devastating. This method basically requires that the dog be mentally and physically exhausted.

First of all, dogs are not humans and therefore they do not understand that the therapy is meant to help them and, on top of that, they cannot self-talk to reassure themselves during the process as people are capable of doing.

During flooding, dogs may engage in strong avoidance behaviors trying to escape, and if prevented from doing so, they may get hurt or even engage in defensive behaviors which can endanger people around them.

On top of that, flooding causes loads of unnecessary stress. When using flooding, the outcomes can be two: in the best scenario, after repeated exposure, the dog may come to realize “somehow” whatever he feared wasn’t that bad. Or in the worst scenario, he may become traumatized with all its associated negative effects.

“The use of flooding is almost always inappropriate… exposing a fearful or fearfully aggressive dog to a stimulus of which he is afraid of but cannot escape, will make the fear worse. “~Karen Overall

An Alternative Method

Even Thomas Stampfl realized at some point that direct exposure was too traumatic to experience, and also not always an option.

He therefore created what’s known as imagery exposure procedure, where his patients were exposed to their fears using an imagery technique. Dogs cannot work through their fears in this way, so what options are left?

A much better option with less risks is a behavior modification program known as desensitization (often used along counterconditioning). Desensitization is basically the opposite of flooding. Instead of fully exposing the dog to the most scary situation, the dog is gradually exposed to the least fearful situation first.

A dog owner would therefore compile a list of the dog’s triggers from the least fearful to the worst (fear hierarchy) and the dog would therefore be gradually and systematically exposed (with the help of a behavior professional) through steadily escalating steps.

The help of a professional in this case is important for correct implementation. One of the most common mistakes done in a desensitization and counterconditioning program is progressing too quickly at a rate that the dog is yet not ready for.

This only paves the path towards a dog over threshold and associated setbacks. As the saying goes “slow and steady wins the race” and therefore it’s best to go one step at a time.

References

Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
Leitenberg, Harold (1990). Handbook of Social and Evaluation Anxiety. Springer. pp. 300–2. ISBN 978-0-306-43438-9.
Implosive Therapy Donald J. Levis Binghamton University, New York, retrieved from the web on Nov 16th, 2016.

What Breed of Dog Hunts Truffles?

March 20, 2025November 15, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

There are dogs bred to search explosives, dogs bred to search illegal drugs and then you have dogs bred to search for truffles. Truffles might not be too popular in the United States, but they are quite popular in Europe such as in countries like Italy and France.

And for sake of clarity, when we mention the word “truffle” we’re not talking about those delectable chocolates everybody loves, but rather those prized edible mushrooms eagerly sought out by chefs worldwide.

Since truffles are not easy to come by, their prices can easily amount to hundreds even thousands of dollars which makes people eager to search for them. Truffle hunters may employ pigs to search for truffles or, more commonly now, specially trained dogs, but not all dogs are created equally for the task.

So today’s trivia question is:

What dog breed hunts for truffles?

A – Pachon Navarro

B – Beauceron

C – Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen

D – Lagotto Romagnolo

The Correct Answer is: Drum Roll Please…

The correct answer is D, the Lagotto Romagnolo is the dog breed that hunts truffles.

An Alternative to Pigs

Ah, truffles! Everybody seems to love truffles. Truffles are tubers that grow underground so it takes a good sense of smell to detect them and extract them.

A while back the domesticated pig, called “the truffle hog” was primarily used to hunt for these delicacies. While pigs are not easy to train as dogs, they are highly motivated as they naturally love truffles and are able to detect them from as deep as three feet underground.

However, using pigs has several disadvantages. For starters, pigs don’t have too much stamina, secondly, they’re not very easy to train (try to train a pig the leave it cue), and thirdly, they want to eat the truffles once they find them and no matter how valuable truffles are, you definitely don’t want to wrestle a 300-pound hog that’s highly motivated in chowing down on a truffle, explains Charles Lefevre, the president and founder of New World Truffieres. It looks like truffle hunting has therefore gone to the dogs.

A Matter of Training

While pigs hunt down truffles naturally because they are drawn to them, dogs need a little bit of extra training considering that truffles are things that dogs don’t really have a natural interest in…at least until you create strong associations with food.

Dogs though tend to catch on quickly once they learn that finding truffles means food. The training generally starts by training dogs to find an item that was coated in truffle oil. Criteria is then increased and the dog is asked to find the item first buried under leaves, then under rocks and then under soil.

Finally, the dog is asked to find a ripe truffle and voila’ you got a glimpse into the making of a trained truffle dog. While many types of dogs can be trained to hunt for truffles, some of them seem to excel more than others, and a sure winner in this department is the Lagotto Romagnolo dog.

Introducing the Lagotto

In Italy, the use of truffle hogs has been prohibited since 1985. The reason being that, in their enthusiasm for hunting truffles, pigs ended up causing substantial damage to the truffles during their digging efforts, making them no longer an option.

Dogs are therefore the only option and the Lagotto Romagnolo surely does a great job when it comes to hunting truffles.

Coming from the Italian region of Romagna, this dog breed’s name literally means “the lake dog of Romagna.” Lagotttos indeed were initially bred as gun dogs who retrieved downed ducks from the water. Their wooly waterproof coats indeed were helpful for this original task. However, somewhere between 1840 and 1890 the Lagotto gradually lost its original function as a water dog.

Yet, these dogs were quite far from retiring, and their highly developed nose and aptitude for searching, made them wonderful candidates for truffle hunting and this is what most of them are employed for today. This breed’s tightly-knit coat also turned handy for hunting in the chilly and thorny woodlands during the fall-winter period when truffles are most abundant.

” A natural gift for searching and a very good nose has made the breed very efficient in finding truffles. The former hunting instinct has been modified by genetic selection; hence his work is not distracted by the scent of game.”~American Kennel Club Breed Standard

Did you know? The Lagotto Romagnolo was just recently officially recognized by the American Kennel Club. This breed indeed was just welcomed in 2015.

Photo Credits:

Trained pig in Gignac, Lot, France, Vayssie Robert Robert Vayssié – Own work Gignac Lot France CCBY3.0
A female Lagotto. Entheta – Own work Female Lagotto Romagnolo, 2½ years old CCBY3.0

I am Your Dog’s Prostate Gland

March 21, 2025November 14, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The dog’s body shares several similarities with humans and therefore it’s not surprising for dogs to also have a prostate gland. Of course, prostate glands are only present in male dogs, and just as in humans, it has reproductive purposes.

Also, just like in humans, dogs also share some disorders that affect their prostate glands. So today, we’ll be discovering more about a dog’s prostate gland, where it is located, what functions it serves, and some disorders this body part is prone to.

Introducing Your Dog’s Prostate Gland

Howdy, there, it’s your dog’s prostate gland talking! My name dates back from the 1640s and derives from the ancient Greek word “prostates” which means “leader, ruler, guardian; “the one standing in front”. I am called this way because of my position at the base of the bladder, just by the dog’s rectum.

I am just a small bi-lobed gland that communicates with the dog’s urethra, a tube that carries Rover’s urine from his bladder to the outside so that he can effectively urinate on your neighbor’s mailbox.

I am ovoid in shape and considered quite large for the size of a dog, but that’s most likely because, unlike in humans, in dogs I am the only male accessory gland. On average expect me to measure anywhere between one and two inches in diameter in a forty pound dogs.

However, my size for a good part depends on whether your dog is neutered (had testicles surgically removed) or not. In intact males I am larger, whereas, in dogs neutered before the onset of puberty, I will just develop to a tiny budge of tissue. And if your dog is neutered when he is mature, I will instead shrink to a fourth of my former size.

Did you know? According to VCA Animal Hospital, intact Scottish terriers are known for having a prostate that is about four times greater in weight compared to other dog breeds.

I Help Manufacture Puppies

I play a big role when it comes to the manufacturing process of puppies.

When Rover mates with his girlfriend Missy, he will ejaculate several fluids created by me in three distinct fractions: first comes the pre-sperm which consists of just a small volume of clear fluid, next comes the cloudy, sperm-rich fluid and then comes an abundance of clear prostatic fluid once the dogs are stuck in a tie.

Since my ducts communicate with the dog’s urethra, expect these fluids to travel outside Rover’s body and then right into Missy. Quite a trip there, huh?

What’s the purpose of this fluid? It add volume and helps sperm travel so to successfully reach its destination (yup, talk about motility!) and it’s also believed to have some special antibacterial properties.

Did you know? When a intact male dog cocks his leg to urine mark a lamp post, urine isn’t the only thing coming out. According to Tim Glover, author of the book “Mating Males: An Evolutionary Perspective on Mammalian Reproduction” prostatic fluid is discharged as well and dogs produce quite an amount of it!

“Dogs have no other accessory sex glands and, therefore, no other source of seminal fluid; all fluid present in the ejaculate arises from the prostate. Prostatic fluid is secreted at all times, whether the dog is being used for breeding or not.

Most accumulates in the urinary bladder and is voided with the urine. Some runs down the urethra and accumulates at the opening of the prepuce, forming the mass of greenish discharge that often is visible on intact male dogs. “~Dr. Peggy Root Kustritz

When Things Go Wrong

While most of the problems listed below affect older intact male dogs, don’t count your blessings yet if you own a neutered dog.

Neutered dogs may also occasionally suffer from prostate problems too.

Benign Prostate Hyperplasia

Just as in men, as intact male dogs start to age, I start enlarging. Yes, dogs are prone to benign prostate hyperplasia (BPH) too! Statistics assume that 100 percent of adult intact dogs over the age of 7 will develop BPH. What causes me to enlarge are the hormonal changes associated with aging.

While in men, the tell-tale sign of prostate problems is difficult urination since I end up pressing against the bladder, in dogs, I am more likely to cause painful defecation. So when I enlarge, I am known to cause poor Rover to strain and act constipated. And if you notice ribbon-like or pencil-thin stools in an intact male dog, suspect problems with me too.

On top of causing trouble defecating in dogs, when I enlarge I may also cause straining during urination and sometimes I may even cause affected dogs to walk in an unusual gait, taking short steps as if walking on eggs. For persistent cases causing significant enlargement, most vets suggest neutering the dog considering that once testosterone is removed, I will shrink and things get better from there.

“As the prostate increases in size, it expands backwards in four-legged animals, that means toward the spine. If there’s significant enlargement, it can obstruct the rectum, causing straining during defecation, constipation, and even fecal impaction.

Once in a while, an enlarging prostate pushes forward rather than backward, pressing on the urethra. This can cause a dog to strain while urinating. ~Dr. Karen Becker

Did you know? There is no prostate-specific antigen blood test in dogs as there is in humans, explains veterinary Betsy Brevitz. Dogs are therefore subjected to the humiliating rectal exam with the vet’s gloved finger and other diagnostic tests.

Prostate Infection

At times, I may also get infected. When this happens, the dog is said to have developed prostatitis. After BPH, this is the second most common condition of the prostate affecting dogs. It is estimated that about 45 percent of dogs will get an infection of the prostate at 7 years.

How do I get infected? These infections may stem from the dog’s blood stream or from the urinary tract. Fortunately, a course of the right type of antibiotics (they must be able penetrate into the prostate gland) and for the right amount of time (often several weeks or months) will help me feel better.

Prostate Cancer

And then there is cancer, yes, this can affect me too. The most common types of cancer affecting me are transitional cell carcinoma and prostatic carcinoma. However, the good news is that unlike in humans, cancer of the prostate is less common so on this I can count my blessings. When it happens though, prostate cancer in dogs is quite an aggressive cancer that can metastasize (spread to many organs) and wreck havoc.

Did you know? According to a study published by the August, 2007 issue of the journal “Prostate” it was found that male dogs who had been neutered had a higher risk for transitional cell carcinoma.

As seen, I am quite important for intact dogs meant for passing on their genes, while in neutered dogs, well, to put it bluntly, let’s just say I am pretty much quite useless. While many problems with me are more common in intact male dogs, consider that neutered dogs may also occasionally have problems too. So keep an eye for problems with me and report promptly to your vet upon noticing them.

Kind regards,

Your Dog’s Prostate

References:

Glover, Tim (2012) Mating Males: An Evolutionary Perspective on Mammalian Reproduction Cambridge University Press, page 31. ISBN 9781107000018.
Young W.C. – Sex and internal secretions, 1961, Third Edition, vol. 1, Ed. The Williams&Wilkins Co., Baltimore
Pet Education, Prostate Enlargement in the Dog, retrieved from the web on November 14th, 2016
CANINE PROSTATE PATHOLOGY GABRIELA KORODI, VIOLETA IGNA, H. CERNESCU, C. MIRCU, ILINCA FRUNZĂ, RENATE KNOP Faculty of Veterinary Medicine Timişoara Calea Aradului 119, 300645 – Romania
A population study of neutering status as a risk factor for canine prostate cancer. Bryan JN, Keeler MR, Henry CJ, Bryan ME, Hahn AW, Caldwell CW.Department of Veterinary Medicine and Surgery, University of Missouri, Columbia, Missouri, USA. Prostate. 2007 Aug 1;67(11):1174-81

Photo Credits:

Wikipedia, Created by US government agency National Cancer Institute – Permission details public domain
Flickr Creative Commons, Luca Conti Cani sposati CCBY2.0

Tips for Dogs Scared of Stairs

March 21, 2025November 13, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

For us humans, stairs are just made out of series of steps meant to connect two floors, but for dogs, stairs can be perceived as obstacles that can also be a tad bit intimidating, especially when it comes to small-breed puppies who were never introduced to stairs before.

If your dog is scared of stairs, you may often see him struggle with the desire to be re-united with you and the fear of going up or down all those steps.

This can lead to approach avoidance behaviors where one moment he seems really motivated to go up or down, and the next, he backs away. Fortunately, there are several options to help dogs conquer their fear of stairs.

Why are Dogs Scared of Stairs?

Dogs tend to be fearful of the unknown and this is an adaptive instinct that back in time turned handy as it prevented dogs from getting themselves into risky situations.

Perhaps the puppy you got came from a breeder who may have failed to introduce the puppies to stairs before, sending them out to their new homes without this experience or perhaps you have a rescued dog who lived in a one-story home for most of his life.

Regardless, the fact is that we perceive stairs as a series of steps to be taken one at a time, while dogs see stairs as a huge, big obstacle. When they look at a stairwell from the top, it may look like a giant steep cliff and when they look at it from the bottom it may look like an insurmountable obstacle.

Dogs therefore have an instinct to avoid things they are not familiar with. Even in the sport of agility, if you attend the first classes, you may notice how most dogs (other than the occasional Mr. Confidence) are very cautious around the obstacles and need days or perhaps weeks of training to learn how to climb an A-frame or run confidently through tunnels. For a good reason agility courses are often recommended for dogs who need a boost of confidence. Overcoming this initial hesitancy can do oodles to help tentative dogs better develop their self-esteem.

So back to your dog, those stairs are a just another big obstacle that he is naturally wary about. On top of that, consider that dogs are not used to using their paws to walk up and down steps as most of the world they have encountered so far was always flat, therefore, they might not realize exactly how they must use their feet to climb and descend a flight of stairs. Proper paw placement is therefore an additional criteria they must get accustomed to.

But My Dog Was Never Scared of the Stairs Before!

Sometimes, dogs may develop new fears and phobias even towards things they were accustomed to before. A dog’s ability to learn is never static, it is always prone to changing due to the plasticity of the dog’s brain. So just as your dog can learn new behaviors such as a new phenomenal trick, he can also learn to avoid things if for some reason he perceives them as threatening.

What may have triggered though this new fear? Why is my dog afraid of stairs suddenly? Why won’t my dog go down stairs anymore? It could be due to various factors.

It could be that your dog tripped and stumbled, it could be he heard a scary noise as he was climbing the stairs and has started to associate it with the stairs, it could be the stairs led to an unpleasant situation such as being scolded or being given a bath (if the dog hates baths), or it could be that your dog has developed pain somewhere and walking up and down those stairs has become something he dreads. At times, vision problems may also cause a sudden fear of stairs.

As a general rule of thumb, every time a new behavior develops seemingly out of the blue, it’s a good idea to evaluate with the help of a vet whether pain or some other medical problem may be a factor.

Should I Just Carry the Dog?

When a dog is intimidated by an obstacle that prevents him from joining his family, he can get quite frustrated and this often leads to whining.

The puppy owners at this point will feel very tempted to just pick him and carry him over the stairs. As much as this seems like a great solution, in the long run, it will put a dent in teaching the puppy or dog to climb the stairs. Why?

For the simple fact that the puppy or dog will have learned that by whining, his owners will promptly come to his rescue and airlift him over the stairs. And if the owners do not tend to his requests promptly, the whining will often get louder and longer, and pet parents may then rush to his rescue just to avoid hearing the relentless concert.

The end result? The puppy or dog will give up even trying to use the stairs because he has found the solution that works best for him: “If I just whine my owners will airlift me over the scary obstacle. “

Should I Just Pull Him Up or Down?

Another thing dog owners are often tempted to do is to take the short cut and try pulling the dog up or down the stairs using a leash.

The concept after all is not totally unsubstantiated, considering that dogs are used to following us around when they are on leash.

However, if the dog is scared of the stairs, a tug on the leash in this case will likely result in the dog putting his brakes on and categorically refusing to climb or descend.

And if you are thinking about physically pushing him, consider that this can even result in a defensive bite. Fear is fear, and by forcing an animal to confront it in a forceful manner, risks leading to more fear and even mistrust.

After all, how would you feel if you were terrified of water and somebody was trying to talk you into diving from a platform? The mere thought of this would have likely only exacerbated your fear, and on top of that, you likely won’t longer trust the person when he asks you to climb the platform.

One Step at a Time

To help your puppy or dog overcome his fear of stairs you’ll literally have to take it one step at a time. Desensitization is a behavior modification process where you gradually work on making your dog less sensitive to a certain stimulus or situation, by systematically taking a step-by-step approach.

On top of desensitization, you also want to add counterconditioning, a behavior modification process where you work on creating positive associations with the stimulus or situation, so to change how your dog perceives it.

The goal is basically to have the puppy or dog learn that stairs are nothing to fear, and that great things happen there. Following is a step by step guide on helping your puppy or dog conquer his fear of stairs.

Three Steps for Dogs Scared of Stairs

Approach the stairways and make great things happen there. Place a treat or a favorite toy on the first step and lavishly praise any attempt to get it. When your dog gets the treat or toy make a big deal out of it, praising and playing with him.
Next, place a treat on the second step and do the same. Once your dog steps up the first step to gets the treat or toy on the second step, turn and go down that step praising as you play together.
Repeat the same process, going one step at a time using higher value treats the higher you go, until you reach the top of the stairway where your dog gets a jackpot of treats (several treats at once).

Some Troubleshooting Tips

Make great things happen when your dog climbs up or down.

Avoid speeding through the process, slow and steady wins the race! If your dog seems at any time frightened, go back to a step where he’s more comfortable and gradually build from there.

Once your dog is comfortable going up, it’s time to practice going down from the top, as to dogs this may feel like a totally different experience.

At times, some dogs benefit from watching another dog going up and down steps with confidence. Once they watch this dog go up and down with no problems, they are tempted to try for themselves.

For particularly challenging cases, where a small breed puppy is reluctant to even go up one step, you can skip the stairs for now and practice getting the puppy to climb over a big book such as a dictionary. Once he’s confident, you can move back to the stairs.

Alternatively, some dog owners have had good success by using a target stick or their hands as a way to get their dogs to move up a step. If your dog is familiar with targeting, use your hand or target stick for your dog to target with his nose and click and reward with high-value treats for every sign of progress he makes.

Keep up the training on frequent basis by making enjoyable things happen when he goes up and down the stairs, such as put his bowl of food at the top or bottom of the stairwell, give him a new toy right after he comes down the stairs or clip his leash on to go for a funtastic walk.

Dogs Scared of See-Through Steps

Some dogs are not scared of the actual steps, but of seeing through them as often seen in the steps found in porches and decks. These may seem confusing to the dog and he may be hesitant placing his feet on these steps. Who can blame these dogs after all?

Placing a blanket over these steps (making sure the stairs still keep their shape so your dog knows exactly where to place his feet) may make them appear less scary to navigate. With time, the dog will become more confident walking over them and gradually the steps can be uncovered by the blanket a bit at a time until you can totally remove it.

Did you know? In some cases, dogs are not scared of the steps much, but they are more worried about the surface. If the steps are not carpeted, you may try placing down some rubber matting or traction strips so to offer better traction.

Myths on the Most Difficult Dog Breeds to Potty Train

March 14, 2025November 12, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The internet is filled with a deluge of articles proclaiming the so-called “most difficult dog breeds to potty train.” Yet, many of these articles fail to address the critical question: Why are some dog breeds perceived as more challenging to housebreak? More importantly, they often lack the necessary guidance to help these breeds succeed.

Rather than slapping labels like “stubborn” or—perish the thought—”stupid” onto certain breeds, we need to dig deeper into canine behavior, genetics, and environmental factors that influence house-training success. Mislabeling breeds can lead frustrated owners to resort to ineffective (and sometimes harmful) training techniques that do more harm than good. So, let’s break down the myths and reveal the real reasons why certain breeds struggle with potty training.

Toy Breeds: The Tiny Terrors of Potty Training?

Dog breeds in the toy group often top the charts when it comes to being labeled as the “hardest to housebreak.” We’re talking about Chihuahuas, Maltese, Papillons, Miniature Pinschers, Pomeranians, and Shih Tzus, just to name a few.

These are pups of diminutive sizes that are quite popular among city dwellers and people with small living spaces. While toy breeds have a great reputation for making ideal apartment dogs and perfect lap warmers for chilly nights, they have quite a bad reputation in the potty training department. Why is that?

There are various theories:

The Tiny Bladder Theory

A commonly cited reason for potty training struggles in toy breeds is their small bladders. And yes, it’s true—smaller dogs have smaller bladders, meaning they need to urinate more frequently. However, that’s just one piece of the puzzle.

The “Babied Dog Syndrome”

Toy dog owners tend to treat their pets like delicate little beings, often carrying them outside instead of training them to walk to the door and signal when they need to go. This can delay the learning process since the dog never develops the habit of independently communicating their potty needs.

The “Eh, It’s Just a Small Mess” Effect

Let’s be honest—cleaning up after a Chihuahua accident requires far less effort than dealing with a Great Dane disaster. A quick swipe with a paper towel, and it’s like the accident never happened. This leniency leads some owners to slack off on strict potty-training regimens, allowing bad habits to form.

“In the case of housetraining, I would be willing to bet that there is an incentive effect going on. Great danes who still urinate in the house at the age of six months create massive Def Con III incentives to buckle down and get the dog pottying outside, whereas, Yorkies might elicit only sighing or eye rolling.”~Jean Donaldson

Tip: Try having the same expectations as if you were potty training a Labrador retriever or Great Dane. In other words, be extra vigilant so that, upon noticing the first signs of your dog needing to go potty, you can quickly give your cue word and head together outside. To prevent your small dog from going potty in the house, do not make the biggest potty training mistake of many novice puppy owners: giving too much freedom at once. Your puppy should always be either in his pen, in the puppy-proofed yard, on a leash ( think umbilical cord technique) or under direct supervision in the house that’s limited to a small area with nothing blocking your view (and, most of all, strategically nearby the door!)

Struggles with Scent Hounds

Next in line, for the hardest dogs to housebreak are many dogs in the scent hound category. These include basset hounds, beagles, bloodhounds and dachshunds. Often these dogs are blamed for being difficult to housebreak because they are particularly stubborn dogs. In some cases, they are even labeled as stupid. Oh my!

Hounds are not stubborn nor stupid, they were simply selectively bred by humans for their powerful noses, and it’s not their fault if their noses interfere with the process of potty training.

One main issue is the fact their powerful sniffers are still able to detect soiled areas (yes, even after being cleaned) and therefore have a tendency to return to them because they simply, to put it bluntly “smell like a bathroom.”

Another issue encountered is that once taken out to potty, hounds may forget all about going potty and may decide to follow their noses instead. This is a behavior that can also be seen in several setters, spaniels and pointers, as dog breeds included in these categories have a strong tendency to explore and hunt.

“Some breeds, generally those that have been selected to have a particularly keen sense of smell (e.g, beagles) can be difficult to housebreak not because they are stupid, but because they scent any previously soiled area and return to it.” ~Karen Overall

Tip: Avoid cleaning products that contain ammonia or ammonium. Clean up all messes with enzyme based cleaners, and if your hound still returns to the same area over and over, try cleaning again, or worse comes to worse, block off the area with a piece of furniture. To prevent hounds from wandering should you have a large yard, fence off a small area of the yard and turn it into a formal designated potty area or take your hound out on a long leash.

Setbacks with Sight Hounds

Sight hounds include several dog breeds with a history of hunting by primarily using their eye sight. And indeed, the vision of sight hounds is quite amazing! Several sight hounds though are known for having a reputation as being difficult to housebreak. Irish wolfhounds, borzoi, Italian greyhounds and whippets in particular are often included in the list.

What’s up with them? Like the scent hounds, they may be easily distracted, but this time by anything that moves. So one moment they may be sniffing to go potty, the next they are going, going, gone. And when they are sent back inside, you named it: they’ll pee and poop on the carpet and owners perceive it as a setback.

Another issue with sight hounds is that many owners of rescued racing greyhounds may have to start potty training from zero, considering that many have only lived in a kennel environment and never in a house before, explains the Greyhound Adoption Program.

Not to mention another challenge: greyhounds and whippets are not too fond of cold weather and may not like to be sent out when it’s wet and cold, and who can blame them? They might therefore go out and put their bladders on strike or they may do a quick dribble just to make you happy and “open up the fountain” minutes later on your favorite rug.

“Many racing greyhounds have only ever lived in a kennel environment, with regular ‘let-outs’ for a run and toilet break during the day. Some greyhounds never receive any formal toilet training, and for a few of them, all the world is one big concrete toilet!”~Greyhound Adoption Program.

Tip: a long leash may turn helpful so to keep these dogs focused on what they need to do: go potty! Even if your yard is fenced, keep in mind that sight hounds have long legs and they can easily jump over a fence if motivated enough. Remember that sight hounds may take off after anything that moves and that includes squirrels, bikes and even the neighbor’s cat! And to prevent your sight hound from pottying when he comes back from outside, make sure to escort him outside – regardless of the weather, watching him like a hawk and making sure that he has eliminated before coming back inside. Oh, and don’t forget a cozy jacket so your dog stays nice and toasty and no more excuses for not pottying in the cold!

Tribulations with Terriers

Terriers are often categorized as being difficult to housetrain and these mostly include the smaller, working terriers bred as vermin hunting dog such as rat terriers and Jack Russells. Often these dogs are accused for being difficult to potty train because of their temperament.

Terriers are often depicted as being stubborn, independent dogs who are unwilling to take directions from their owners. Sure, terriers are quite smart, but it’s not like they have an agenda of outsmarting humans turning into bullies who want to eliminate where and when they want!

Terriers are just tenacious, independent thinkers considering that their job of hunting down underground critters did not require close teamwork with humans.

“Owning a terrier is a unique experience. These little bundles of canine determinedness often behave quite differently from other types of dogs; they can be noisy, feisty and always on the move… Something made each of us decide to share our hearts and homes with a terrier… now we need to accept the consequences of that decision and learn how to train these dogs to be the very best terriers they can be.” ~Dawn Antoniak-Mitchell

Tip: as mentioned, terriers are quite intelligent dogs that are quick to learn, and this goes both ways meaning that they are fast in learning good behaviors with proper motivation, but they’re equally fast in learning bad habits. Consistency is very important and you must ensure there aren’t any loopholes in your potty training program. This of course, applies to any dog, but terriers are just more apt to this.

Slow Maturers Lagging Behind

Think only small dog breeds are difficult to housetrain? Think again. Many people are surprised when owners of several large breed dogs are also struggling with potty training their dogs.

The problems with these dogs is that they quite slow to mature, which often translates into longer times to accomplish potty training. It’s not like these dogs aren’t smart enough, it’s just that their bodies and brains are just a step behind.

Large and giant dog breeds such as great danes, Saint Bernards, Bernese mountain dogs, Chinese shar-pei, Rottweilers, and mastiffs generally are not fully mature until they reach two years old or older. This doesn’t mean though it’ll take 2 years to potty train them!

Fortunately, owners are deterred by finding horse-size messes in their homes, and this certainly expedites the process. However, it’s not unusual for puppies of large and giant dog breeds not to be fully potty trained until they are on 6 to 8 months old, when other dog breeds may take less.

“Not all dogs develop at the same rate, and clients need to make allowances for this variability even if they have had the same breed or obtained the dog from the same breeder and lines.” ~Karen Overall

Tip: be patient! You may go through periods of time during which you think your dog has finally aced it, to other times where you notice a regression. Potty training slow to mature dogs breeds is made of these ups and downs and they’re perfectly normal.

Other Factors to Consider

So far, we have debunked some myths about certain dogs breeds being difficult to potty train such as some dogs being accused of being stubborn or plain stupid or others trying to become bullies so they can eliminate where they want. But perhaps an even bigger myth to debunk is that breed is the only factor.

Even within a dog breed, or even within a litter, there may be great variances in the potty training process from one pup to another. This is because, when having trouble potty training a dog, there are a dozen and more factors to keep in mind.

Is your puppy on a feeding schedule? Adhering to a feeding schedule can help you determine when your puppy is more likely to potty. Are you actively supervising? Failure in doing so means you’re missing important opportunities to train. Are you praising and rewarding for going outdoors? Behaviors that are rewarded tend to strengthen and repeat. Are you using puppy training pads? These can be challenging to use.

Are you ensuring your dog enters the home with an empty bladder/bowel? If you don’t, your puppy will go potty the moment he comes in. Is the puppy from a pet store? Puppies in stores often come from puppy mills and are more difficult to potty train. Are you punishing your puppy when he has accidents? Doing so will only make the process more difficult as this just teaches your puppy to secretly go in area out of your sight. Is your puppy peeing when he greets you or when you scold him? You might be dealing with a case of excitement or submissive urination. Does your puppy have a substrate preference? Acknowledging this can make things easier. And if you’re struggling a whole lot, give your puppy or dog the benefit of doubt and, with the help of your vet, determine if you’re dealing with a behavioral or medical problem. With all that said, happy potty training to all!

References:

Oh Behave: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker, By Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing (April 1, 2008)
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, 1e 1 Pap/DVD Edition, by Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)

Fascinating Facts About Dog Flews

March 21, 2025November 11, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Whether you are familiar or not with dog flews may largely depend on what type of dog breed you own or have owned in the past. Some dogs are known for having quite some heavy flews while in some others, the flews may be barely noticeable to almost non-existent. But what in the world are dog flews and what are they used for?

No worries, dog flews are nothing odd or unusual. According to the American Kennel Club, the term is used to simply depict the upper lip of certain dogs which are particularly pendulous at the inner corners. A dogs lower lip is therefore simply called the “lower lip,” while those upper lips that cover the dog’s teeth are called “flews.”

Some Hounds Have Heavy Flews…

What dog breeds are known for having particularly pendulous flews? Perhaps the most notorious dog breed with flews is the bloodhound, but there are many others.

The American Kennel Club talks about flews in many of its breed standards. Many of these breeds are in the hound family.

For instance, the basset hound is described as having lips that are pendulous,” falling squarely in front and, toward the back, in loose hanging flews.”

The Black and Tan Coonhound is depicted as having flews that are well developed and with a “typical hound appearance.”

Another breed with pendulous upper lips is the American English Coonhound having flews that cover the lower jaw when observed from the side.Not all hounds though have flews, for instance, in the beagle standard the lips should be free from flews.

“Flews is just a fancy word for a dog’s lips.”~ Margaret H. Bonham

But They’re Also Present in Other Dogs.

Several other non-hound dog breeds are known for having developed flews, but they might not be as developed as in certain hounds.

The bull mastiff is known for having flews, but per standard they shouldn’t be too pendulous.

The Clumber Spaniel is described as ideally having flews in the upper jaw that are strongly developed and tend to overlap the lower jaw giving an over all “square look” when observed from the side.

The Dogue de Bordeaux is known for having flews that are moderately pendulous yet retractile.

In the Saint Bernard dog breed instead the flews are portrayed as being strongly developed and slightly overhanging.

And then you have the bulldog, with “flews that should be thick, broad, pendant and very deep, completely overhanging the lower jaw at each side.”

Did you know? In Golden retrievers, overly pendulous flews are frowned upon for a practical purpose: they interfere with this breed’s efficiency in picking up game with its mouth, explains Caroline Coile in the book “The Golden Retriever Handbook.” In addition, heavy flews are also more likely to collect feathers. Not good. Indeed, the breed standard for the Golden clearly indicates “no heaviness in flews.”

Flews Aid in Capturing Smells….

It’s not a coincidence that many dog breeds equipped with pendulous flews are scent hounds.

These dogs have made of sniffing the world their area of specialty, making them the sniffing machines of the dog kingdom. And their bodily features are sure equipped to help them!

First off, their noses are equipped with larger cavities compared to other types of dogs,which ultimately allows them process scents better.

Secondly, their droopy ears and dewlaps are thought to further help capture and collect scents from the ground stirring them upwards at nose level.

Finally, their pendulous, droopy lips further aid in trapping smells, allowing those precious scent molecules to reach their destination: to the almighty nose and beyond!

“When bassets are trailing, their ears often drag on the ground and stir up scents. The large folds of skin on their jaws hold the scents close to the nose.” ~Cari Meister

But May Also Contribute to Drooling.

The shape of a dog’s upper lip can surely play a role in how predisposed a dog may be to drooling. Many owners of dogs with particularly developed flews have gotten used to cleaning up what are known as “slingers;” basically, strings of drool that attach to floors, ceilings and walls every time slobbery dogs happen to shake their heads.

It’s very difficult to come by a Saint Bernard with a dry mouth. Many seasoned dog owners though have simply learned to deal with the drooling issue. “You just always carry a towel and learn to live with it,” explained a fancier to the American Kennel Club Gazette.

Coping mechanisms aside, those slingers are not to be be underestimated: Barbara Meyer explains in her blog that, left alone, this spittle has the tendency to dry into a rock-like hardness and that she heard a dog owner speculating that it might be of interest to NASA for the purpose of gluing down the tiles of their space shuttles!

“Flew patrol. If applicable, check flews and pendulous lips for trapped food and debris. You never know—you might even find Amelia Earhart in there.”~ Billy Rafferty, Jill Cahr

Flews Affect Dog Facial Expressions….

From dogs with hair covering their eyes, to dogs with bob tails, through selective breeding, dogs have undergone quite some changes when it comes to looks.

After all, humans have been tinkering with genetics for quite a long time, selectively breeding dogs based on their working functions but sometimes also based on looks.

It’s inevitable therefore for some features to affect dogs’ lives and their ability to communicate. Even dogs with flews are somewhat deprived in the communication department.

For instance, the thick pendulous flews of the bloodhound can interfere with their ability to exhibit certain facial expressions.

While these dogs are capable of snarling, that is, lifting their upper lips to show their teeth, they have quite a hard time exhibiting expressions that are more subtle, such a those involving the corners of their mouths, observes Matthew Hoffman, in the book :”Dogspeak: How to Understand Your Dog and Help Him Understand You.”

But People Find them Irresistibly Adorable!

Because for many dogs with pendulous flews it can be challenging drawing up the corners of their mouths as other dogs do, people have a tendency to perceive them as being sad, even though they are not. However, let’s face it: these dogs’ gloomy mugs and facial folds are also what many dog owners find irresistible!

However, we must finish up with some words of caution: it’s always best not to commit to dog ownership based on a dog’s looks alone.

Good research about the breed is always paramount to avoid unnecessary heartaches. Learning about a dog breed’s temperament, health and whether the dog’s needs for exercise and mental stimulation match with your lifestyle, is always something wise to do when it comes to making choices and picking your ideal furry companion.

Photo credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, Paul Joseph, drool dog CCBY2.0

Dogs’ Fight or Flight and Other Stress Responses

March 14, 2025November 10, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

When dogs are stressed, their bodies are bombarded with hormones and neurotransmitters that trigger what are known as the four F’s of stress: the popular fight-or-flight response, and the less known fool around and freeze responses. Being aware of these responses and their effects on dogs is important, but equally important is managing the dog’s environment so that he is prevented from experiencing these negative responses in the first place. Because yes, a little bit of stress is normal when coping with the ups and downs life randomly throws out at dogs, but too much stress, especially if it’s the intense, recurrent type, can have an overall negative impact on a dog’s health and overall well-being.

Stress Responses in Dogs

Just like us, when dogs are stressed, they release noradrenaline, adrenaline and cortisol. These neurotransmitters and hormones cause a variety of physiological changes meant to provide a quick boost of energy in hopes of getting the dog quickly out of trouble and up his chances of survival. These are times where there is little time to think, as one must act quickly.

Physiological changes in stress responses in dogs include: increased heart rate and breathing rate, increased blood pressure, increased muscle tension and increased blood flow to muscles (allowing dogs to sprint into action), increased blood clotting (to prevent excessive blood loss), increased glucose levels (for a quick burst of energy), dilated pupils (to allow dogs to see with more clarity) and lowered threshold for aggression (caution, dogs may bite more easily when stressed!)

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Did you know? The fight and flight response was first described by American physiologist Walter Bradford Cannon in 1920. Canon also developed the concept of homeostasis from the earlier idea of Claude Bernard.

The Flight Response in Dogs

As the term implies, this response depicts fleeing to avoid a threatening stimulus or event. It’s avoidance behavior at best. Dogs may cower, move away, attempt to hide.

Examples include dogs hiding when a thunderstorm rolls in, moving away from a scary open umbrella, pulling on the leash to escape from something perceived as scary.

The flight response can be considered adaptive considering that fleeing can heighten the chances for an animal’s survival, possibly preventing himself from sustaining injuries.

“Fleeing is an excitatory response to fearful arousal that is typically elicited by high levels of fear or the close presence of an intrusive threat.”~~Steve Lindsay

The Fight Response in Dogs

As the term implies, this response depicts a defensive response from a dog who will use aggressive displays in hopes of removing the threatening stimulus.

Dogs may lunge, growl, snap and attempt to bite. Examples include dogs who snap when they are cornered, dogs who lunge at other other dogs, dogs who attack other animals they perceived as threatening.

The fight response is also adaptive considering that it may be used when the animal cannot escape a confrontation and is forced to protect himself.

“Fear elicited fighting occurs in situations involving intense fearful arousal and where flight is blocked by the threatening target.”~Steve Lindsay

Freeze Response in Dogs

As the term implies, dogs will freeze when presented with a threatening stimulus or situation.

In dogs, we may see the freeze response when they stop doing things such as when they are reprimanded or stand motionless upon hearing a noise or noticing at a distance an animal or other stimulus that they may fear.

The freeze response is considered adaptive, considering that in the wild, upon spotting a threatening stimulus, remaining motionless allows the animal the opportunity to evaluate the situation and possibly, avoid detection from a predator considering that motion cues in a freezing animal are non-existent. It’s basically “playing ‘possum” or in other words, feigning death.

“Freezing is an inhibitory response to fearful arousal that is typically elicited by low levels of stimulation or a distant threat.”~Steve Lindsay

Fool Around Response in Dogs

Sometimes, when dogs are under pressure, they may engage in behaviors that may seem out of context. It’s a similar reaction to coping mechanisms seen by some people who inappropriately tell a joke at a funeral.

In dogs, the fool around response includes acting plain silly such as jumping, performing play bows, playing and acting over the top at times when they are feeling stressed. For instance, a dog at the vet’s office who starts rolling on the ground or bites the leash in play, may be trying to transfer the focus off of one situation and onto another.

When dogs behave this way, their stress is often not identified as it’s not straightforward as a dog who is shaking or growling. Some dogs are labeled just as acting plain silly, or worse, they are reprimanded for being stubborn.

” I don’t know how many dogs came into my office like bullet trains, and ricocheted around my office for a few minutes before they settled down. Their owners would often say “Oh, he’s so friendly” as they leaped on top of me, my desk and my computer. I always saw them as frantic, and was reminded of how I can begin chattering like a mockingbird when I’m nervous.” ~Patricia McConnell

A Matter of Choices

What makes a dog choose to fight over flight or some other response? Interestingly, dogs don’t always follow a distinct pattern when it comes to freezing, fleeing, fighting and fooling around. There are specific circumstances that may play a role on whether a dog will be making a subconscious choice of one over the other.

These “chosen” survival reaction may therefore be based on the dog’s overall health status, speed, temperament, memories of past experiences, availability of support etc.

For instance, a mother dog with puppies is more likely to engage in fight considering that flight is not an option because it would mean leaving her vulnerable altricial puppies on their own. An older dog or an animal not feeling well, may as well choose fight rather than flight due to limited mobility or weakness.

Sometimes, breed can also play a role. Some breeds of dogs were selectively bred for having less or more resilience compared to others and their response to stress may reflect that. For instance, beagles may freeze almost to the point of catatonia; whereas, small terriers may respond to fear by barking and running around the fear-eliciting stimulus, explain Jon Bowen and Sarah Heath in the book “Behaviour Problems in Small Animals: Practical Advice for the Veterinary Team.”

What Happens After?

It’s the ultimate goal of the body to return to a state of normality, what is known as “homeostasis.“ After enduring an episode of acute stress, the dog’s body will therefore work on reaching again a state of balance or equilibrium. This is when the dog “shakes off” the stress so to relax tight muscles as his breathing rate gradually goes back to normal and his heart rate slows down.

After the fearful event is over, ideally, the dog’s body should work to resume a state of normalcy where dogs will be willing to resume eating, drinking, sleeping and playing again and go on their lives (at least until another fear-eliciting episode takes place!)

However, what happens with dogs who are exposed to chronic stress? If the stress continues for some times, burnout may occur as the body starts getting exhausted and this can have negative effects on the body.

Intense and prolonged stress can affect the immune system and cause a host of problems such as skin disorders, digestive disorders and even shortened life spans, explains veterinary behaviorist Gary Landsberg. A dog’s ability to learn is often affected and dogs may endure in disrupted sleep patterns. Some dogs remain in a perpetual state of hypervigilance and have a hard time relaxing even when nothing is happening. Because of these effects, it’s important to reduce stress in dogs and enlist the help of a qualified professional before they become chronic.

References:

Neurobiology of the Parental Brain, edited by Robert Bridges, Academic Press; 1 edition (July 29, 2008)
Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Etiology and Assessment By Steve Lindsay, Iowa State University Press; Volume One edition (January 31, 2000)

Photo Credits:

Michael Gil, Discipline!, No Dogs were harmed in the taking of this picture! CCBY2.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Dog Word of the Day: Fully Vetted

March 14, 2025November 9, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

If you ever took a look at ads for puppies for sale or for adoption by a breeder, rescue group or shelter, you may have stumbled upon the term “fully vetted.” What exactly though does it mean for a puppy or dog to be fully vetted? It’s always important to conduct a lot of research before opening your heart and home to a new puppy or dog. Will the puppy or dog be a good fit for your home? How will his temperament be? On top of these, important questions, one another important aspects to look at is health so to not end up owning sickly puppies who will only cause hefty veterinary bills and heartbreaks. Knowing whether a puppy or dog is fully vetted is therefore important, but it’s also important to understand what the breeder or rescue group exactly means by that term as it’s seems to be prone to personal interpretation.

Definition of “Fully Vetted”

According to The Free Dictionary, the term “vetted” means “to subject to veterinary evaluation, examination, medication, or surgery.” As one may imagine, the term derives from “vet” referring to veterinarian.

If we look at the history of the word, Wikipedia tells us that the verb “to vet” was originally a term used in horse racing and was used to depict the practice of subjecting a race horse to a thorough veterinary exam before being allowed to race.

The term has therefore assumed the general meaning “to check over.” According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the earliest usage of this term dates back to 1891, eg. “He vetted the stallion before the race.”

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

The addition of the word “fully” therefore adds further emphasis to the term, giving the idea that the animal is checked over with thoroughly with quite an amount of scrutiny for any flaws.

What Does a “Fully Vetted” Dog Mean?

fully-vetted When it comes to dogs, the term “fully vetted” is often a loose term that is subject to personal interpretation. It could refer to a dog being merely checked over by a vet, to a dog who has been spayed or neutered, vaccinated, heartworm tested, microchipped, and possibly even dewormed.

This is why it is very important to ask the breeder or rescue what they exactly mean when they use the term “fully vetted.”

Words are just words, and one must also require facts such as proof of vaccinations, with dates and types of booster shots given along with other important health records.

The breeder or rescue should be willing to provide copies of all these records. Perspective puppy and dog owners must consider that these veterinary services alone could easily amount to costing anywhere between $300-$1,000, so when paying the nominal adoption fee one must keep into consideration the money saved when getting a fully vetted puppy or dog.

A Closer Insight

For new puppy or dog owners it may be overwhelming understanding what is included when a puppy or dog is claimed to be “fully vetted.” Here is a brief overview of some services that “may be” included when a puppy or dog is claimed to be “fully vetted.” Obviously, not all of these services are necessarily included so when in doubt it’s best to ask.

Spayed: a female dog that is altered so that she doesn’t go into heat and have puppies.
Neutered: a male dog that is altered so that he is no longer capable of impregnating female dogs.
Booster shots: a series of vaccinations given to puppies generally starting at the age of 6 to 8 weeks and given about every three to four weeks until the puppy is about 16 to 20 weeks old. In puppies older than 16 weeks, usually two doses of vaccine are given 3-4 weeks apart. In adult dogs who have received their booster shots as puppies, they may be vaccinated annually or every 3 years, depending on local veterinary recommendations. Required shots tend to vary based on location and risks. Consult with your vet on which vaccines are needed for your new puppy or dog.
Core vaccines: vaccines recommended for all puppies and dogs with an unknown vaccination history. Core vaccines in dogs protect from diseases with high risks for morbidity and mortality. Generally, core vaccinations consist of distemper, canine hepatitis, canine parvovirus, and rabies shot. The rabies shot is required by law in many States and is generally given after the puppy is 16 weeks of age.
Non-core vaccinations: optional vaccines based on individual factors such as exposure risk, geographic location and the dog’s lifestyle.
DHPP, DHPPVor DHLP-PVC an abbreviation used to denote a combo shot. The capital letters stand for different types of vaccines included,usually as follows: D stands for distemper, H stands for hepatitis, L stands for leptospirosis, P stands for parainfluenza, PV stands for parvo, C stands for coronavirus. This combo shot for dogs is also known as 5 in 1 shot or 8 in 1 shot depending on how many vaccines are included.
Microchipped: the puppy or dog has a microchip implanted under the skin for identification purposes. Puppy and dog owners should have the microchip registered under their name with an up-to-date address and phone number, so that, in the case the puppy or dog is lost, he can be promptly returned to his owners.
Fecal Flotation Test: the puppy’s or dog’s feces were tested for the presence of parasites.
Dewormed: the puppy or dog was given a medication against parasites.
Heartworm tested: the puppy or dog was tested for heartworm disease. Usually, veterinarians will start testing for heartworms when puppies are around 6-7 months of age.
Flea/tick preventive: the puppy or dog was given products to keep fleas and ticks at bay.

Fully Vetted Doesn’t Necessarily Mean Healthy!

As much as the term “fully vetted” seems to suggest receiving a healthy dog, it’s often recommended to take a new puppy or dog along with all paperwork received to see the vet within 48 hours so to have a complete physical examination done. Many things can have changed since the puppy or dog saw the vet last time.

At this exam, the vet will be checking the puppy’s ears, mouth, nose and other things such as taking the temperature, listening to the heart etc.

The vet will go over the records to see if the puppy or dog may need any further vaccinations or de-worming done.

Bringing in a small fecal sample may turn helpful so to test for the presence of parasites. In older dogs, blood work may turn helpful to get a better insight on the dog’s general state of health.

“A veterinarian should give new puppies a thorough physical examination; ideally within 48 hours of you acquiring your new puppy, to ensure he is healthy.”~Green Hills Veterinary Clinic

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Consult with your vet for proper preventive care and treatment.

References:

Green Hills Veterinary Clinic: Your Puppy’s First Vaccinations, retrieved from the web on November 8th, 2016

Photo Credits:

A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

What is a Pathological Bone Fracture in Dogs?

March 14, 2025November 8, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

When it comes to bone fractures in dogs, there are several types. Fractures seen in dogs can be categorized into two main categories: open and closed fractures. The term open fracture refers to fractures that communicate with outside. In other words, the broken bone penetrates through the skin and is exposed. Closed fractures instead refer to fractures that do not communicate with the outside. In other words, the broken bone remains encased within the skin. Fortunately, according to the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, most fractures involving dogs are closed. Another type of fracture involving dogs, is a pathological fracture. Do you know what a pathological fracture in dogs is? Today’s trivia question therefore is:

What is a Pathological Fracture?

A) A fracture caused by an underlying disease

B) A fracture caused by trauma such as an automobile injury or a fall.

C) A fracture that breaks in several parts

D) A fracture caused by an unknown reason.

The correct answer is: drum roll please….

drum

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

The correct answer is A, a pathological fracture in dogs is a fracture caused by an underlying disease.

$dog-pathological-fracture$ About Dog Pathological Fractures

Normal and healthy dog bones are quite resistant to wear and tear and, unless exposed to traumatic events, they are quite resistant to fracturing.

Bone density in dogs isn’t not lost as much as in humans, which is likely why osteoporosis in dogs is quite rare.

Osteoporosis, which is very common in post-menopausal human women, is therefore not a widely accepted diagnosis for dogs among veterinarians, also because dogs don’t go into menopause as human women do.

Healthy dogs are also (in most cases) fed a balanced, high-quality diet provided with all the nutrients they need to develop and maintain healthy bones.

Dogs therefore should not need calcium supplementation for healthy bones as their foods already contain adequate amounts of the minerals in proper balance with other minerals, explains veterinarian Dr. Erika Raines.

Causes of Pathological Fractures in Dogs

A fracture in a dog occurring without a history of trauma is suspected to be occurring because of an underlying condition that weakens the bone. When a bone is weakened to a certain extent, it reaches a point where it’ll spontaneously break or it takes very little trauma to break it.

What conditions in dogs are known for causing pathological fractures in dogs? Unfortunately, one of the most common causes of pathological fractures are bone cancers. Osteosarcoma in dogs is known to cause bone to be destroyed from the inside out. As the bone is destroyed, tumorous bone replaces it, but it’s not as strong as regular bone and therefore has a tendency to break.

Bone cancer in dogs can often be confirmed by x-ray. Because a bone that is broken because of cancer is not going to heal properly, amputation is often recommended, explains veterinarian Dr. Christine M. Splints and casts are unfortunately not helpful for pathological fractures due to bone cancer. Some big universities though may offer limb sparing options.

Other possible causes for pathological fractures in dogs include osteomyelitis; an infection of the bone, an endocrine disorder known as hyperparathyroidism, and malnourishment although this is very rare in dogs fed a normal diet, explains veterinarian Dr. Scott Nimmo. When it comes to pathological fractures of the jaw in dogs, these can be due to severe periodontal disease secondary to bone loss, explains Dr. Niemiec a veterinarian specializing in animal dentistry. These fractures of the lower jaw are quite common in small and toy breed dogs and can happen with very mild force during innocent activities such as eating or playing with a toy.

” While typically fractures occur after a traumatic incident, such as being hit by a car or falling from a height, some fractures occur following a pathologic weakening of the bone, which is seen with certain neoplastic conditions, such as osteosarcoma.”~Today’s Veterinary Practice

Photo Credits:

Flick, Creative Commons, F Delventhal, Schuyler’s Cast CCBY2.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]