Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

Facts About Silent Dog Whistle Training

March 14, 2025November 27, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

You’ve probably seen it in movies—a dog owner blows a mysterious silent whistle, and their unruly pup instantly transforms into the most obedient dog on the planet. Like magic, right? Well, not exactly. While silent dog whistles can be an effective training tool, they aren’t the miracle fix that some people believe them to be. Training requires patience, reinforcement, and a deep understanding of canine behavior. Before you toss your silent whistle in the trash, let’s uncover the facts behind whistle training and what makes it work (or not work).

1) Dog Whistles Are Older Than You Think…

If you assume silent whistles are a product of modern innovation, think again! The concept of using whistles to train dogs is far from new. For centuries, shepherds have used their lungs, lips, and tongues to create distinct whistles that communicate specific commands to their herding dogs. These whistles were used to guide livestock from impressive distances.

Hunters, too, have relied on whistle signals to direct their retrievers, pointers, and setters during hunts. The ability to command a dog from far away without shouting has always been a valuable skill in both hunting and herding.

Did you know? The first official silent whistle was invented in 1876 by Sir Francis Galton, a scientist studying the hearing ranges of humans and animals. Because of this, silent dog whistles are sometimes referred to as “Galton Whistles” in honor of their creator.

2) The Modern-Day Utility of Silent Whistles

While shepherds and hunters have long benefited from whistle training, modern dog owners can also reap the rewards. Police and military forces frequently use silent whistles to issue discreet commands to working dogs. A police dog, for example, might receive a whistle signal to corner a suspect without tipping off the person being pursued, explains Stanley Coren in the book “How Dogs Think.”

But you don’t need to be a cop, a shepherd, or a hunter to enjoy the benefits of whistle training. Even an everyday pet owner can teach their dog to respond to a whistle for essential cues like sitting, staying, or recalling from a distance.

Many trainers now wear their silent whistles on a lanyard around their necks, ensuring they never misplace them. This also allows them to pair the whistle with visual cues, such as hand signals, to strengthen communication with their dogs.

3) Silent Whistles Operate in the Ultrasonic Range…

A silent whistle gets its name because it emits sounds at frequencies higher than what most humans can hear. Dogs, however, have superior hearing abilities and can detect sounds at much higher frequencies than humans.

Dogs’ ability to hear in the ultrasonic range is likely an evolutionary adaptation linked to their ancestors’ need to hunt small rodents. Many small prey animals emit high-frequency distress calls, making it advantageous for dogs to detect these sounds.

“Ultrasound may possess some innate significance as a directional indicator for detecting and locating small prey animals whose distress vocalizations are expressed at ultrasound frequencies.” — Steven Lindsay, Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training

Most silent dog whistles emit frequencies between 23,000 Hz and 54,000 Hz, which is above the range of human hearing (typically between 64 Hz and 23,000 Hz).

“Ideally, dog whistles emit a frequency of between 23,000 and 54,000 Hz, although some emit frequencies as low as 16,000 Hz (which people can hear) or much higher than 55,000 Hz (which dogs can’t hear).” — D. Caroline Coile & Margareth H. Bonham

4) …But They Aren’t Actually Silent!

Despite the name, most silent dog whistles aren’t truly silent. Many emit a faint hissing sound that humans can still detect. This isn’t a flaw; it’s actually beneficial! If your whistle were entirely silent to you, how would you know if it was working?

“Silent dog whistles make use of the high-frequency sounds that dogs can hear and we can’t, but they are something of a gimmick: Whistles that produce at least some sound audible to human ears are much easier for us to control.” — John Bradshaw

So, don’t be disappointed if you hear a soft noise when using your silent whistle—it just means it’s working as intended.

5) Dogs Aren’t Born Knowing What a Whistle Means

One of the biggest mistakes new whistle users make is assuming that dogs instinctively understand what a whistle means. They don’t.

Dogs aren’t born with an inherent understanding of silent whistles any more than they instinctively know what “sit” means. It’s up to the owner to condition the dog to respond to the whistle.

If you’ve ever read product reviews of silent whistles, you’ll likely come across complaints such as:

“My dog doesn’t react at all to this whistle!”
“It doesn’t stop my dog from barking!”

These reactions stem from a fundamental misunderstanding: The whistle itself doesn’t train the dog. Training is what trains the dog.

But They Can Be Conditioned to Respond to its Sound

A big mistake dog owners make when using a silent whistle is to not allow it to have a meaning.

Without any training, the dog may just show an orienting response the first few times the whistle is blown. The dog may twitch his ears in direction of the sound, perhaps turn his head or even come running to check on its source. Some dogs may bark.

On top of that, if the silent whistle is improperly overused, it just teaches dogs that it’s a sound they don’t need to listen for. Therefore, instead of learning to pay attention to it, they learn to ignore it (learned irrelevance), which is the opposite of what you might want.

To train a dog to come running at the sound of the silent whistle, the whistle needs to become a conditioned reinforcer for it to become effective. Conditioned reinforcers are basically things that are neutral and therefore don’t have much significance to the dog or minimal significance, but that through experience your dog has learned to appreciate because they have been associated with a primary reinforcer (anything your dog doesn’t need to learn to love) such as food.

How does a dog whistle assume such special meaning? Here is brief guide on whistle training a recall.

6) How to Properly Train a Dog Using a Silent Whistle

If your dog is already trained to come when called and reliably responds to his name, adding the whistle to the mix can be as easy as pie. Simply, let three to four repeated blasts precede the regular words you use for a recall repeatedly (eg. 3-4 whistle blasts then “Rover come!”), strongly reinforcing every time he comes to you with several treats given in a row.

After several repetitions of hearing the 3-4 whistles blasts followed by his name, your dog will soon start understanding that the new whistle blasts are a cue that precedes being called.

Since dogs have a tendency to anticipate, at some point, you’ll notice that he’ll start responding to the whistle alone even before you call his name!

If your dog instead isn’t reliable when it comes to coming when called, then you’ll have a little more work to do. Your first step is giving the whistle a strong meaning, and the best way is to do this is with tasty treats.

So start by blowing the whistle, and then giving a treat. Blow the whistle and give a treat. Repeat this exercise several times in a row, until your dog makes the association that the sound of the whistle means that a treat is coming. You know your dog got the the idea when, upon blowing your whistle, Rover comes looking for his treats.

Gradually, start increasing distance and adding distractions. Try blowing your whistle when your dog is away from you at a short distance and then when he is a bit distracted.

As your dog gets good at this, increase distance more and more and add more and more distractions. If your dog struggles coming to you at any time, you know that most likely, you are asking too much and your dog is not ready for this level of difficulty yet.

Progress slowly making sure you don’t jump ahead too much at a higher level when your dog still hasn’t mastered dealing with the challenges to the level prior to that.

Tip: If your dog loves meal time and it’s one of the most anticipated events of the day, have a helper hold him (use caution if he gets too frustrated) while you prepare his meal. Then, use those whistle blasts a split second before you place the bowl on the floor as your helper releases him. Your dog will rush to eat his meal. Repeat a few times in the next few days. Then, prepare his meal one day while he is out and about exploring in the yard. Then, place the bowl on the floor, open the door and use those whistle blasts to announce to him that his dinner is ready in his bowl. Your dog should come dashing inside and the whistle sound will soon become music to his ears!

The Bottom Line: Is Whistle Training Worth It?

Absolutely! Silent whistles can be a powerful tool, especially for recall training, distance work, and situations where voice commands might not carry well (such as in windy conditions). However, they are not a magic solution—you still have to put in the training.

A few final takeaways:

Whistles provide a clear, consistent signal that dogs can hear better than voice commands.
Dogs must be conditioned to respond to the whistle for it to be effective.
Not all silent whistles are completely silent—and that’s a good thing!
Choose the right whistle for your needs—some have fixed pitches, while others allow you to adjust frequency.

So, rather than expecting your dog to react to a silent whistle like a scene from a Hollywood movie, approach it as a scientifically backed tool that requires proper training. With consistency and patience, your dog can learn to respond reliably—and that’s when the real magic happens!

References:

Why Do Dogs Like Balls?: More Than 200 Canine Quirks, Curiosities, By D. Caroline Coile, Margaret H. Bonham, Sterling (September 2, 2008)
Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You A Better Friend …By John Bradshaw, Basic Books; First Trade Paper Edition edition (May 8, 2012)
Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Adaptation and Learning, By Steven R. Lindsay, Iowa State University Press, 2000.

Six Interesting Facts About A Dog’s Life Cycle

March 14, 2025November 26, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

If dog lovers were asked about a dog’s life cycle, they would say that it’s too short! From the rambunctious days of puppy hood, to the slowing down process associated with aging, dogs surely cycle through these life stages quickly, filling our lives with much joy as we adapt to the changes from one stage of the dog’s life to another. Sharing our lives with our dogs is ultimately an important lesson as dogs teach us about valuing life and the importance of cherishing every happy moment it brings. Discovering more about a dog’s life cycle therefore, brings us closer to understanding our marvelous animals and knowing what to expect so that we can be one step ahead of the game.

1) Puppies Go Through Developmental Stages…

A dog’s life cycle starts from the day he or she is born. When you picked up your adorable puppy from your breeder, shelter or pet store at 8 weeks old, you missed out several developmental stages the puppy has gone through. No worries! We will briefly outline some of the most important milestones for you.

Please note though that these development stages aren’t clear cut as each puppy develops at a different rate, and there may also be some overlapping between one stage and another. According to John Paul Scott and John Fuller’s studies on puppy development, the stages can be divided in 3 categories:

1. Neonatal stage (birth – 2 weeks). Born deaf, blind and unable to stay warm, puppies are in a pretty much helpless state. During the pup’s first two weeks of life though he goes through quite some rapid changes.

2. Transitional stage (2-3 weeks). During this stage, puppies start seeing and hearing. With their eyes open and their ability to stand and walk around a little, puppies start exploring the world.

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3. Socialization stage (3-13 weeks) With their senses developed, puppies are now learning more about their surroundings. This is the prime time when they should be introduced to pets and other people. While the breeder starts socialization in the home, it’s then up to the new dog owner to expand the pup’s socialization while still keeping the pup safe from infectious diseases. Puppies play a whole lot during this time and learn more about being a dog. Around 11 weeks (but there are variances), puppies may go through a fear period too.

“Scientists divide development into separate stages largely for descriptive convenience. However, development is a continual and dynamic process: Dogs do not abruptly leave one stage and enter another, rather the progression is smooth and the stages overlap considerably.”~ Ian Dunbar

2) And They Go Through a Teenager Phase Too!

Think the teenager phase only happens in humans? Think again; puppies go through doggy adolescence too! Sure, you won’t find Rover wearing headphones, drinking soda or chewing gum, but you may notice several changes both physically and mentally.

When do dogs hit this stage? Generally, the adolescent stage in dogs starts anywhere between the ages of 4 and 6 months. While all dogs go through the adolescent stage, in some dogs it may be barely noticeable, while in others, dog owners may pulling out their hair.

This is when Sadie gets goes by her second name “stubborn” and Rover’s second name becomes “rowdy.” You may notice your dog being more distracted, reluctant to pay attention and more likely to engage in undesirable behaviors (ie rowdy jumping, digging, barking etc)

Doggy adolescence is a temporary time of passage during which developing dogs start looking more and more like adult dogs, but their brain can still retain certain behaviors that may be puppy-like. Governed by powerful hormones, the dog’s body starts developing, with female dogs (those not spayed) going into heat and male dogs become more interested in urine marking, roaming and sniffing around.

Fortunately, adolescence in dogs doesn’t last forever, even though in larger dogs it tends to linger for a longer period of time. Generally, expect adolescence in small to medium dogs to last until the dog reaches 18 and 24 months, whereas, in large and giant dogs it may last even until 36 months (yup, until they’re 3 years old!) Fortunately, training (and possibly behavior modification) using gentle, yet consistent methods (with the help of a trainer/behavior consultant) can help nip problems in the bud before they become established.

“As with humans, an animal’s juvenile and adolescent periods have a profound impact on the animal’s behavior. This is the most trying time when raising a pet, and a time when most owners reach the limits of their knowledge and fall short of their obligations as a responsible pet owner.”~ Lore I. Haug

3) Adulthood Brings Stability….

Once dogs are past doggy adolescence, they will reach adulthood. When adulthood starts once again depends on your dog’s breed. Generally, adulthood in dogs may start at 18 months for the smaller breeds and 3 years of age for the large ones.

Many people find that their dogs at this point of their life-cycle are much easier to manage. With a full house-trained dog and the hyper puppy years just behind, adulthood brings the benefit of dogs who are generally calmer and less demanding. Adulthood can be a nice smooth ride and dog owners enjoy the perk. Many dog owners report their dogs turning into “pure gold” once they reach age 5.

Sure, adult dogs will still enjoy exercise and mental stimulation, but generally they are less likely to be bouncing of the walls as they used to in the younger years. Dog owners who have invested their time wisely in socializing their dogs and getting them trained, are now rewarded with an obedient dog. Training though does not end now! Dogs thrive on being kept mentally stimulated and need a job, so this is a great time to enroll an adult dog in advanced obedience or perhaps some fun doggy sports.

4) While the Golden Years Bring Wisdom

Depending on your dog’s breed, he will reach his golden years anywhere in between 7 and 10 years.

When dogs get old, you may notice a grey hair here and there on their muzzles and they may slow down a bit. They may prefer a calm stroll on a quiet path at a comfortably lazy pace in place of the brisk games of fetch or hide ‘n seek of his younger years.

In large dogs, joint pain may start developing as arthritis sets in, while smaller dogs may be prone to back and neck problems. Dental problems are not unusual considering the many years of tartar accumulating. You may also find that your older dog tends to sleep more than before and he may not need to eat as much as he used to.

Keeping up with regular vet visits is important at this point of the dog’s life cycle. The earlier problems are caught, generally the better the outcome.

5) The One Dog Year Equals Seven Human Years Turned Out Being a Myth….

You may have heard that you can easily convert your dog’s years into human years by simply multiplying your dog’s age by seven, but turns out, this simple calculation is inaccurate.

For sake of an example, let’s imagine that Bella, the saucy Pomeranian next door, is one year old. If you multiply her age by seven, then that would mean that she would be the equivalent of a 7-year old child. OK, so what’s wrong with that?

Problem is, that, at the age of seven, a child is likely still playing with her Barbie dolls, while Bella is mature enough to give birth to a litter of puppies! –Not saying that Bella should be bred, just that Mother Nature would have prepared her for reproductive success by this age.

On top of dogs maturing faster than people, there’s also the breed factor. Dogs come in many different shapes and sizes, and therefore dogs undergo different life cycles compared to one another.

Nowadays, there are more accurate ways to tell how many years a dog is compared to a humans’. For instance, there are several handy dog age calculators that are based on individual factors such as a dog’s breed. With the size factor kept into consideration, it is therefore more likely to get a better idea of how much a dog year equals in human years. While no calculator is totally accurate, they do a much better job than the old ‘one dog year equals seven humans years’ belief.

6) But the Fact that Large Dogs Age Faster is True.

Actually, more than a matter of size or breed, longevity in dogs seems to be a matter of weight. Generally, statistics show us that dogs weighing under 30 pounds are the ones blessed with longer lifespans. However, since dog breeds come in average weights, one can roughly deduce a dog’s life expectancy by considering breed.

For instance, according to the UC Davis “Book of Dogs,” a small-breed dog such as a small terrier is considered geriatric at about 11 years; while a medium-breed dog (think larger spaniels) becomes senior at 10 years. When it comes to large-breed dogs such as German Shepherd dogs, they becomes seniors at 8 years while 7 years is considered already a geriatric age for giant-breed dogs such as great danes.

Of course, there are other factors to consider as well such as the dog’s diet, over all health, his lifestyle, not to mention the role of genetics. And as in people, sex also seems to play a role, considering that generally female dogs seem to live just a bit longer than male dogs. And when it comes to dog owners who elect to have snip-snip surgeries on their dogs, they are rewarded with more time with their pals considering that Science Daily tells us that spayed or neutered dogs live longer.

How long a dog lives is therefore ultimately a matter of genetic potential. Every animal is gifted with a certain pre-determined average lifespan. For instance, an elephant may live up to 70, whereas a giant tortoise can live a whole century. Dogs compared to humans weren’t really gifted with a long lifespan, considering that the average dog lives to be 13, but as much as this is saddening, we can at least feel better considering that a mouse barely makes it to 5!

Did you know? Scientists at the University of Washington are conducting research in hopes of unlocking the secrets for a longer lifespan in dogs. The field of study addressing the biology of aging is called “geroscience” and you can learn more about it at The Dog Aging Project website.

References:

Siegal, Mordecai (Ed.; 1995). UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine Book of the Dogs; Chapter 5, “Geriatrics”, by Aldrich, Janet. Harper Collins.
University of Georgia. “Spayed or neutered dogs live longer.” ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 17 April 2013
Dog Star Daily, Puppy Personality Development, retrieved from the web on Novermber 25th, 2016

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Discovering The 6 Different Types of Retriever Dogs

March 14, 2025November 25, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

When it comes to retrievers, there are different types of retriever dogs and none of them were created equal. Each retriever dog type is unique and selectively bred to work in a certain environment even though the tasks carried out roughly remained quite the same.

Retriever dogs fall under the gun dog category, dogs bred to work along hunters carrying out several different tasks. Gun dogs are split in three different categories: the retrievers, the spaniels and the pointers.

Today, we will be discovering more about retriever dogs, the kind of work they were used for in the past (and continue to be used for nowadays) and the different types of retriever dogs that today populate the doggy planet.

Types of Retriever Dogs

As mentioned, a retriever is a type of gun dog. As the name implies, retrievers were selectively bred to retrieve game for the hunter. When the hunter aims and then shoots, these dogs are sent to retrieve any downed birds that land to the ground. In order to excel in their work, well-trained retrievers must meet certain requirements.

Retrievers must be under control so to not interfere with the hunter as he’s aiming to shoot the birds. Sometimes the hunter may be in a small boat, and a rambunctious dog may easily capsize the boat. This gun dog’s ability to “steady to wing and shot” is therefore not only a matter of obedience but moslty a matter of safety.

Retrievers may also have a good memory so that they can remember where the fallen birds have landed, even when visibility is not the best. Since dogs do not see where the birds have exactly fallen, hunters call this a “blind retrieve.”

On top of retrieving downed birds with precision, it is also quite imperative that retriever dogs return the birds with a soft mouth so to prevent spoiling the meat which will then be later served on the table.

All these tasks require a dog with a certain predisposition to follow directions and stay focused on the task, qualities that fall under the term of “biddability.” Retrievers are dogs who are often prized for their biddability, which is the opposite of what people describe as “head strong,” dogs who are more on the independent side, but not because of being stubborn, but mostly because of different work requirements.

1) Golden Retriever

The golden retriever was selectively bred to retrieve downed waterfowl such as ducks and upland game birds. The breed was originally bred in Scotland in the mid 19th century when hunting for game birds both on water and land was particularly appealing to the Scottish elites of that time.

The ability to retrieve on land and water was a must back then considering that, at that time, the Scottish hunting grounds were covered in marshy ponds and rivers.

With the introduction of guns firing at longer ranges in the 1800s, there was a need for hunting dogs that would retrieve at great distances and on harsh terrains. It was the goldens who helped fill that role.

To succeed in their hunting tasks, Golden retrievers were selectively bred for a long coat with a dense undercoat meant to provide a nice layer of insulation topped with a water repellent top coat meant to help them dry off quickly. The biddable nature of golden retrievers makes them suitable today as family dogs that lend themselves to training and work as therapy dogs and assistance dogs.

2) Labrador Retriever

Labrador retrievers originated from the island of Newfoundland, Canada, where they were selectively bred as helpers for local fishermen in the early 1700s.

Labrador retrievers at this time were mainly used to haul nets and ropes and retrieve fish who were able to evade the hooks.

Impressed by this dog’s utility in working in the chilly North Atlantic waters, English sportsmen imported a few specimens to England and converted them into hunting companions. Instead of retrieving nets, Labradors were used to retrieve downed birds. Their powerful noses and willingness to follow directions, made them excel in this task.

Labradors are powerful dogs with a hardy water-proof coat that helps them tolerate exposure to cold water for extended periods of time. Their broad, strong tails and webbed feet helped them excel in becoming excellent swimmers.

Today, Labradors rank high as friendly companions and their eagerness to work has made them excellent candidates as drug and explosive detection, search and rescue and therapy or assistance dogs.

3) Chesapeake Bay Retriever

The Chesapeake Bay retriever is not as common as the golden or Labrador retriever, but deserves a spot of honor among the retrieving dog breeds.

As other retrievers, Chesapeake Bay retrievers are large dogs with a history of retrieving waterfowl for hunters. This breed was developed in the United States in the 19th century

While the Labrador retriever has a smooth coat, the Chesapeake has a wavy coat. The coat is also water proof and may have a slightly oily feel that may have a musky odor.

The toes are webbed which contribute for swimming, not to mention this breed’s powerful chest that helps break ice apart when hunting ducks in the frigid waters of the Chesapeake Bay.

The Chesapeake also boasts a unique amber, yellowish eye color, which is quite unusual in dogs, considering that most dogs have brown eyes. Chesapeake are happy dogs, with lots of stamina and very smart. They have the potential to make wonderful companions when socialized well and trained.

4) Curly Coated Retriever

As the name implies, this retriever has the distinguishing factor of having a heavily curled coat characterized by tight, crisp curls.

This dog breed was originally bred in England for the main purpose of hunting waterfowl. This is one of the oldest of the retrieving breeds, possibly established as early as 1860, and it also gives the impression of being one of tallest retrievers, perhaps because of the moderate angulation of front and rear which gives the idea of being higher on leg.

Curly coated retrievers were prized for their ability to retrieve both furry and feathered animals from the heaviest cover and the iciest waters.

Affectionately called “curlies,” curly coated retrievers are still used in several countries as bird dogs that hunt both upland birds and waterfowl. The American Kennel Club describes the breed as being wickedly smart, a trait that makes it highly trainable and cherished as a loyal companion both for the home and in the field. As long as they are provided with sufficient exercise and mental stimulation, as the other retrievers, curlies can become laid back in the home.

5) Flat Coated Retriever

As the name implies, the flat coated retriever is a retriever with a coat that is flat, and not curly. This gun dog breed originates from the United Kingdom in the mid-19th century where it was selectively bred to retrieve both on land and in the water.

While the most common coat color is black, flat coated retrievers are also sometimes seen in dark brown and sometimes yellow.

The flat coated retriever was quite popular for some time, but then its numbers decreased when it was outranked by the more popular golden retriever.

As other retrievers, this breed has a tendency to want to please people and is an active companion who requires plenty of exercise and mental stimulation.

The fact that flat coated retrievers have a strong sense of smell along with a biddable nature, makes them excellent candidates as drug sniffer dogs. Their great temperament also makes them potentially good assistance dogs.

6) Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling retriever is a medium-sized dog. It is the smallest of all the retrievers. Due to their small size, Tollers are often confused for a smaller version of the golden retriever.

As most of the other retrievers, this breed was selectively bred for hunting. As their name implies, Nova Scotia duck tolling retrievers originated from southwestern Nova Scotia, Canada where for many years they were used for luring waterfowl (tolling) within shooting range and then retrieving the downed ducks.

Want to learn more about the unique hunting style of the Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever? Read here: how Nova Scotia tollers hunts ducks. Quite fascinating that is!

The Toller as several other retrievers is blessed with a water-repellent double coat that helped him retrieve ducks from icy waters. Tollers are high energy dogs that require loads of exercise and mental stimulation. They are also very smart. To make them happy, they do best when they have a job to do. Nowadays, they are still used for hunting but also in several canine sports such as agility and dock diving. Tollers also make great search and rescue dogs.

Photo Credits:

A Golden Retriever, by Marlies Kloet – Own work CCBY3.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Blaine Hansel, Mac Pheasant Hunting, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Donna Callejon, Dillon first snow CCBY2.0
Flat-Coated Retrievers retrieve well on land or in the water Gunnandreassen, CCBY3.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Mattias Agar, Kita is chillin’ CCBY2.0
The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever was bred to “toll”, or lure, ducks into shooting range by causing a disturbance near the shore. After the duck is shot, the dog brings it to the hunter. kallerna; Edited by jjron (cropped, adjusted levels and curves, sharpened) – Own work CC BY-SA 3.0

What’s Up With Dogs Eating Socks?

March 14, 2025November 24, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Is your dog eating socks? Let’s face it: dogs eat the oddest things and it’s therefore no longer surprising hearing about dogs eating socks. Veterinarians are much familiar with phone calls from distressed dog owners claiming with a sense of urgency: “My dog ate a sock, what should I do? ” The problem with dogs eating socks goes beyond owners looking for socks gone missing; rather, a dog eating socks may encounter some serious health problems which can easily amount to some hefty veterinary bills, especially when dogs are repeat offenders and have turned eating socks into their favorite hobby. So what’s up with dogs who swallow socks?

Dogs Stealing Socks for Play

Socks are pretty much boring items that lay around the home, but dogs are smart enough to learn that, at least from their owner’s perspective, they must have a strong meaning.

If Rover is bored and has a strong desire for some attention or play, all he has to do is grab a sock and take off with it. At that point, the owner who, was moments prior acting boring, “activates” himself and starts looking at him, talking to him and perhaps even chasing him in his favorite game of “keep away.”

Then as the owner is very close, Rover figures out that perhaps the safest place to keep the sock safe is stored inside his belly. Going, going and gone! Gulp! And off to the vet Rover goes when he develops a painful belly.

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Tip: dog owners should avoid playing “keep away” games with their dogs as this only reinforces the behavior of taking off with prohibited objects. Dogs should instead be trained to voluntarily swap objects with their owners using a“trading-game“. Dog owners should consult with a trainer to learn how to master this exercise so that their dogs are more likely to relinquish objects in exchange for something else rather than taking off with them.

Dogs Guarding Socks

On a more serious note, some dogs ingest the sock because of a tendency to act protective of items they perceive as valuable. Items perceived as valuable include toys, bones, food and even socks may be added to the repertoire of items to be protected.

Dogs who resource guard tend to manifest signs of increasing stress as a person or dog comes closer to their items. So in the case of a sock, these dogs may stiffen, lower their head towards the sock, growl and even threaten to bite if they feel threatened enough.

If a dog perceives socks as valuable, he may even ingest them so that no other dog or person can gain access to them. Typically, these dogs ingest them the moment they notice a person or other dog has interest in them, or they might just ingest them as they find them scattered around just to keep the sock out of reach from others.

Tip: Keep socks out of reach and implement behavior modification with the help of a professional. Look for a behavior professional who can guide you on teaching your dog to swap objects with you and who uses desensitization and counterconditioning and other force-free techniques for tackling resource guarding behaviors.

Dog Eating Socks due to Pica

Dogs who eat socks may also be suffering from a condition that is known as pica. Pica is the the tendency to eat non-edible objects such as rocks, socks and other items. The underlying cause of pica may not be fully understood, but there may be chances that affected dogs may be suffering from a behavior disorder (triggered by boredom/anxiety) or some digestive problem, metabolic disorder or other underlying medical condition.

Pica may therefore be used loosely to depict the eating of non-edible items which can be due to a variety of possible causes, at least until a clear diagnosis pinpoints an exact underlying cause.

One may think that a dog with pica may be interested in eating just about anything, but generally dogs affected by pica exhibit a certain selectivity over the items to ingest. For instance, some dog are fixated over eating rocks, so if socks are exclusively on your dog’s favorite menu, do not exclude pica as a possibility.

Tip: if your dog seems obsessed with eating socks, it’s always a good idea to see the vet so to exclude the possibility for medical problems. You really cannot effectively tackle a behavior problem if it’s stemming from an underlying medical condition,

” Most pica, if exhibited by dogs who are past puppyhood, involves extreme focus on and selectivity of ingested objects. These behaviors are not normal and can become sufficiently intense that the dog disregards other activities.”~Dr. Karen Overall

What Happens When Dogs Eat Socks?

What happens when a dog eats socks depends on the size of the dog, the amount of socks eaten and several other factors. In a small dog, eating socks is more concerning due to the ratio difference between the size of the dog’s digestive tract and the size of the sock.

A sock can easily cause an intestinal blockage in a small dog. The sock clogs somewhere in the digestive tract and doesn’t allow any food to make its way through.

What dog eating socks symptoms should one expect? Soon, the backup of food causes vomiting, the dog develops abdominal pain, nausea, lack of appetite, diarrhea, straining and perhaps also lack of bowel movements in the case of a total blockage.

In the case of a blockage due to a sock, the dog must be cut open, the vet fetches the sock and then the dog’s abdomen is sown back together. This invasive surgery is of course not good for the dog and on the owner’s pocket.

My Dog Just Ate a Sock What Should I do?

At the vet clinic, we often got these phone calls from distressed owners “My dog ate a sock, what should I do?” The most important question at this point was: “How long ago did your dog eat the sock?”

If the owner responded that the dog ate the sock in the last hour or two, we would then talk to our veterinarian and report back with instructions on how to induce vomiting with the correct dosage of three percent hydrogen peroxide based on the weight of the dog.

If the dog ate the sock and two hours passed, we would then tell the owners that that they had two options: if the dog was large, they could have taken a wait or see approach by keeping an eye on the dog for any concerning symptoms, while also monitoring whether the sock was vomited back up or being passed in the dog’s stool. Our vet also sometimes suggested to feed a high fiber diet in the meantime to help the dog pass the sock.

If the dog was on the smaller side though, we would caution the owner about the risks for blockages and told them it was best to bring their dog in so he could be x-rayed and possibly undergo an endoscopy to get the sock out, which is less invasive than an actual surgery! And of course, the third option when all these things failed, was surgery.

Usually when a dog is obstructed from ingestion of an item such as a sock the dog will experience vomiting or diarrhea. So, if you are seeing these signs then it becomes suspicious it is obstructed and you are going to have to get her seen. If not, my one suggestion is to feed her a high fiber diet…use canned pumpkin added to a canned diet (we need the moisture of a canned diet.)”~Dr. Joey

Warning: never try to make your dog throw up using your fingers! This not only doesn’t work, as dogs have a different gag system, but also frightens your dog and puts you at risk for a serious bite!

Stopping a Dog From Eating Socks

Stopping a dog from eating socks is important so to prevent a dog from getting sick or having surgery, and owners of dogs who are die-hard sock eaters must consider that with repeated surgeries things get more critical each time.

But how can one stop a dog from eating socks? While dogs have shown the capability of making a connection between a behavior and a consequence, this does not happen with ingesting socks because there is a too long delay between eating socks and the development of a belly ache and the discomfort associated with the surgery.

So don’t expect Rover to get wise up and learn from the whole sock-eating experience.

Providing the sock-eating dog with plenty of activities such as walks, play and interactive games can help keep his mind off of socks. Leave around plenty of fun toys that can be stuffed with treats and goodies, so that socks are less appealing.

All dogs who tend to eat socks should also be taught a solid leave it and drop it cue practicing with other objects that the dog doesn’t normally ingest, so, should the day arrive that the dog is about to grab a sock, he can be told “leave it” and if he manages to have the sock in his mouth, he can told “drop it.” These exercises should be practiced often holding refresher courses. However, these exercises work best as a “back up” for a strict environmental management plan.

An environmental management plan means that you keep those socks always out of reach. Treat those socks as if they were bottles of chemicals around a toddler. This doesn’t mean you’ll have to keep your dresser locked up, it just means that you’ll have to make a commitment in keeping those socks always out of reach. It’s isn’t really that hard once you make it routine. When you take your sock off, they must go either in the closed dresser or in inside the washing machine, with the door closed. Skip the laundry basket as Rover can easily fetch socks from there if you happen to leave it around. Basically, leave no room for error, the biggest drawback with management is lack of compliance; as is, eventually someone in the family drops a sock or forgets a door open.

As seen, stopping a dog from eating socks requires a multi-tiered approach. Plan A is to keep socks out of hand. Plan B is to keep your dog exercised and happy through walks, play and interactive games. Plan C is to have a solid leave it and drop it cue in the case Rover happens to manage gaining access to a sock no matter all the precautions taken.

Did you know? A 3-year-old male great dane won the 2014 X-Ray Contest held by Veterinary Practice News. After repeatedly vomiting all day, x-rays showed a severely distended stomach with a large quantity of foreign objects. Once exploratory surgery was started and the dog was opened up, the great dane was found to have ingested 43 and 1/2 socks! Talk about socks gone missing!

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as substitute for professional behavioral or veterinary advice. If your dog swallowed a sock please consult with your vet.

Vet explains how to induce vomiting with 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. Always discuss with your vet first for dosage and safety considering that some ingested substances are dangerous to have brought back up!

References:

Pet Place, Pica, retrieved from the web on November 24th, 2016
Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, by Karen Overall, retrieved from the web on November 24th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Bev Sykes Sox! CCBY2.0

Flickr Creative Commons, Taro the Shiba Inu, taro shiba & artengo socks, 11, CCBY2.0

Flickr Creative CCommons, John Lester Sock Retriever CCBY2.0

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Dog Word of the Day: Runt of the Litter

March 14, 2025November 23, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

In a litter of puppies, it’s not unusual for there to be what’s known as the “runt of the litter.” The world of literature and animated movies is populated by many famous runts.

If you recall as a child reading the book “Charlotte’s Web or watching the animated version of the novel, you’ll likely recall that Wilbur was the runt of the litter and was at risk for being slaughtered, while Clifford the Big Red Dog, was also a runt who managed to grow explosively until he became 25 feet tall.

Not to mention Babe, the piglet hero from Dick King-Smith’s book, but what exactly is a “runt of the litter” and why are they born this way? Also what can be done to help runts survive? Fortunately nowadays, puppies who are runts of the litter have a higher chance of survival courtesy of the care provided by their humans.

What is a Puppy Runt of the Litter?

Among a litter of puppies, the runt of the litter is a puppy that is smaller and weaker than the others. However, just because a puppy is smaller than the rest that doesn’t officially make him a runt and not all litters have runts.

After all, just because your brother is 6 foot tall and you are just 5.6 doesn’t make you a runt, does it?

A better definition for runt would perhaps be a pup that is abnormally small for his breed and age and that is struggling to flourish due to health issues. However, there doesn’t seem to be any real, clear cut official definition for this term.

Runts generally face several disadvantages when compared to the rest of the litter. Puppies that are runts generally have a harder time competing with their siblings for milk and sometimes they may also be rejected by mother dog who senses something wrong with the puppy and instinctively caters her energies to the stronger puppies. Runts also typically struggle with health ailments which can range from mild to even severe and life threatening.

With a rough start and rejection from the mother, in the wild, runts tend to struggle and often fail to survive; however, in a domesticated setting, runts are often able to, not only survive, but even thrive, courtesy of some TLC provided by their caretakers. After all, runts of the litter, tend to evoke nurturing instincts in humans, so it’s not surprising to be drawn to these little fellows! Many caretakers confess that helping out runts and watching them grow bigger and stronger can be quite a rewarding experience!

“There is really no agreement among veterinarians – or anyone else for that matter – as to what constitutes a runt.” Dr. Ron Hines

What Makes a Dog the Runt of the Litter?

A common myth that floats a lot around breeding circles is that runts are puppies who were in the middle of the uterus or who came from eggs that were conceived last.

In reality, when the dam releases her eggs to be fertilized, they are actually released all at once generally over a 24 hour span.

Even if say a puppy was conceived later than the other puppies, there are still 17 days during which they float freely before implantation and the formation of the placenta, explains Dr. Margaret V. Root Kustritz in her book “The Dog Breeder’s Guide to Successful Breeding and Health Management.” This means that all the pups are ultimately of the same age, but runts may have undergone what’s known as “poor placentation.”

What does poor placentation mean? It means that basically, during gestation, runts may have had a poor implant site in mother dog’s uterus. Perhaps there was an old placenta scar and the area of implantation did not have a rich blood supply. A poor vascular system may therefore fail to provide the ideal blood supply that is needed for the developing puppy. Runts are not therefore, premature puppies; rather, they are simply puppies who happened to have a poor implantation site, while large pups had a better one.

“What accounts for runts is not being fertilized later than the other eggs, it is their placement within the uterine horn. “~ Myra Savant-Harris

Coming to the Rescue

Because runts are small and weak, mother dog may reject tending them with the care as they would with stronger puppies. Mother dog may reject them straight off the bat right when they are born, or shortly thereafter.

This means that human intervention may be necessary in order to help the puppy survive. Puppy owners may therefore have to free the puppy from the amniotic sac, massage him to increase circulation, clear his airways and then remove the puppy’s umbilical cord. Runts may also need assistance with staying warm, clean and well-fed.

Puppies who are runts often struggle to compete with the stronger puppies. This can cause them to can miss out on nursing as they should. Failure to nurse properly can have quite an impact on the puppy’s health, especially considering that mother dogs produce a special milk known as colostrum only for the first 48 hours. This special milk is rich in antibodies that will help protect the puppies from diseases for their first few weeks when they are most vulnerable.

If a runt misses out on reaping the benefits of receiving this milk, his immune system may not be strong which can ultimately lead to illness. It’s important therefore that these pups are given the opportunity to nurse and if they appear to not want to nurse, a puppy milk replacer may help out or a veterinarian should be consulted for advice.

Tip: runts may not have the same energy to nurse with vigor as the other puppies. It may help to let another puppy nurse first so to increase the milk flow, then move this puppy away and let the runt nurse so that milk flows freely.

Health of Runts

When a runt of the litter is born, it’s important to find out whether there is some congenital defect of some sort or genetic abnormality causing the puppy to not flourish and gain weight as the others. Getting a daily weight of the pups is paramount so to ensure they are growing at a steady pace.

While all new puppy owners are advised to have their new puppies undergo a vet check in the first day or two, it’s even more imperative with a runt if the litter puppy that is smaller than usual.

It’s therefore not a bad idea to consult with the breeder about the option of having the puppy see the vet and then making arrangements such as reimbursement of veterinary bills or returning the puppy based on the vet’s findings.

The veterinarian may help determine whether there is an underlying health problem. Sometimes, runts are underdeveloped in other ways than just size. For example, a portosystemic shunt (or liver shunt) can be seen in a puppy who has trouble gaining weight, but this is usually seen in small dog breeds and there are often signs of poor appetite. Also, being loaded with parasites may also play a role in causing failure to gain weight but this is usually not dramatic, explains veterinarian Dr. Marie. Other potential problems to check for include heart defects and cleft palates.

“The runts of the litter can have heart defects and other congenital problems including umbilical hernias that the breeder might not disclose to you so it’s a good idea to have your veterinarian do a complete examination of the puppy before you agree to buy the pup (or have a refund if there is a congenital problem). Good respected breeders will understand and expect this but unfortunately there are a lot of people trying to make an easy buck.”~Dr. Jan

Puppy Runt of the Litter Price

And what about price? Just because a puppy is a bit slower to develop compared to the other puppies, doesn’t mean he should cost less than the other puppies as long as he’s healthy.

Many smaller runt if the litter puppies grow up to be the same size, (if not even larger!) than the other pups.

Some unethical breeders may charge a premium for runts in small breed dogs and call them with the flashy name of “teacup dog breeds.”

Ethical breeders, on the other hand, will never use a true runt as a candidate for breeding and therefore will sell them for a normal price as their other puppies along with a strict spay or neuter contract.

“The small size does not necessarily mean that the runt of the litter will not be a good pet if all other health issues are within expected limits.”~ Dr. Robert L. Ridgway

References:

The Dog Breeder’s Guide to Successful Breeding and Health Management. by Margaret V. Root Kustritz DVM PhD DACT Saunders; 1 edition (December 23, 2005)
Canine Reproduction and Whelping: A Dog Breeder’s Guide, By Myra Savant-Harris, Dogwise Ebooks (January 1, 2006)

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Wendy Berry, Little Runt, He doesn’t even want the milk. He’s just wants to nurse on something, anything.

What are Skin Tags on a Dog?

March 14, 2025November 22, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

In dog circles, there are often some terms that are not quite readily easy to understand and skin tags may be one of them. What are skin tags on a dog? What do dog skin tags look like? Where are dog skin tags found?

If you never heard about the term skin tag before, you may be wondering exactly what dog skin tags are, especially if you are a dog owner. Or maybe you may have stumbled on the term before, perhaps coming from other dog owners or from a vet, but were too embarrassed to ask what on earth dog skin tags are exactly.

On the other hand, it might be you know what dog skin tags are and just want to learn more about them. So today’s trivia question of the day revolves around skin tags in dogs, will you be able to identify the correct answer?

What are skin tags in dogs?

A – It’s a tag embedded in the dog’s skin for identification purposes

B – It’s a tag attached to a dog’s skin with a registration number for breeding specimens.

C – It’s a small growth on the dog’s skin

D – It’s a small remnant of skin that may stick out after a dog had stitches that failed to close correctly.

The correct answer is, drum roll please ……

The correct answer is C: A skin tag in a dog is a small growth found on the dog’s skin.

So What on Earth Are Skin Tags in Dogs?

Veterinarians are quite used to dog owners wondering about skin tags. Dog owners may be petting their dogs when they suddenly stumble upon this fleshy little growth that is flexible and bends and that they have never noticed before.

Next thing they know, they rush over to the vet concerned about it. “What is this penduculated blob of hairless skin doing on my dog’s chest?”

What do dog skin tags look like? Dog owners may describe skin tags as being small like a grain of rice or fleshy like a raisin, but what are really skin tags, and most of all, how did they end up being on the dog in the first place?

Medically known as acrochordons, the Merck Veterinary Manual describes skin tags as being benign, cutaneous growths often found in older dogs. Skin tags can develop in any dog breed and can present as isolated growths or they can be in good company appearing in several different parts of the dog’s body.

Skin tags are normally not painful when touched and may appear on the dog’s face, head, legs, chest area and armpit area, but they can really appear just about anywhere. Fortunately, in many cases, skin tags are nothing to worry about and the vet may recommend just keeping an eye on these growths and report if skin tags in dogs get bigger or change appearance. Yes, dog skin tags are unsightly, but they often seem to bother more owners than dogs. While skin tags are considered benign, as with any lumps, bumps and growths, a biopsy may be needed to confirm it’s truly a skin tag.

Skin Tag or Tick?

engorged dog tick — Dog skin tags may look like ticks!

Often, when dog owners find a skin tag on their dog, they often wonder if it’s an actual skin tag or a tick. The two may resemble a bit each other, but there is an easy way to figure it out.

Simply, part the dog’s hair and then carefully look at the area where the “growth” attaches to the skin. Do you see wriggling legs or a mouth part? To get a better look, you might have to grab a magnifying glass just to make sure. Just in case you are wondering, yes, the picture on the right is featuring an embedded tick. Yes, gross!

If you see wriggling legs, then you can simply remove it by grabbing it firmly by the head as close to the dog’s skin as you can with a pair of tweezers and then gently tug it off. Ideally, you should get the tick all out, but if you leave the head behind, the dog’s body, with time, will dislodge it on its own.

If it’s a skin tag, you should have your vet take a look at it and see what he recommends doing. Chances are, if it ‘s just a skin tag, he may recommend keeping at eye on it, but some vets are more conservative and will recommend having it biopsied to err on the side of caution.

How to Remove Skin Tags in Dogs

Removal of skin tags in dogs is usually optional, but sometimes there may be some good reasons for removing them.

For instance, if the dog tends to pester his skin tag, chewing on it or scratching it, it’s a good idea to have it removed as skin tags tend to bleed, get irritated and can become infected.

If the dog’s skin tag is located in a bothersome area such as where the collar goes or near the dog’s eyes, rear end or mouth area, removal is also often recommended.

If the vet recommends having a skin tag removed, there are several options. Skin tags in dogs can be removed through a small surgical procedure that can be done under local anesthesia with some sedation or total anesthesia. The choice for dog skin tag removal may vary based on its location and the over all temperament of the dog. Some vets may recommend having them removed through electrosurgery or cryosurgery.

About Home Remedies for Dog Skin Tags

Many people look for home remedies for skin tags in dogs, but most of them are not safe and not recommended! We stumbled on several website offering tips on removing dog skin tags, but no, it’s not something to do at home!

For instance, veterinarian Dr. Loretta warns that yes, technically one can tie off the end of a skin tag with dental floss, apply alcohol and then cut it off with scissors, using a styptic pencil to stop the bleeding, but this can be stressful on the dog and will cause the dog to be likely screaming in pain!

Also, even though a skin tag may appear thin, it actually has a large blood vessel that bleeds and there are risks for infections. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking you can just easily remove a dog’s skin tag at home. Many have, and they have regretted it when their dogs got nasty complications. It’s is best to have this done by a veterinarian in a sterile environment possibly with the vet using only local anesthesia.

And what about cutting off blood supply to the skin tag by tying it with dental floss if hopes of it dropping off? Even this procedure is dangerous. Veterinarian Dr. Deb warns that she has seen people with the best intentions trying to remove dog skin tags at home, only to create some nasty infections. No matter what you read, this is something that should not be done at home!

“Using floss, string, or rubber bands in this way is one of the worst things you can do… It is literally dying and rotting off the body. Who thinks this is a good thing? There is a big risk of infection or having more tissue than desired affected. In the case of a mass or polyp, you leave the base in the skin so it has a chance of regrowing. In order to completely resolve the problem you have to cut away the attached skin, not just remove the dangling part.” ~Dr. Chris Bern

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as substitute for veterinary advice. If your dog has a lump, bump or growth, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

References:

Merck Veterinary Manual, Connective Tissue Tumors, retrieved from the web on November 21st, 2016
A Vet’s Guide to Life, Dental Floss Doesn’t Remove Skin Tags, But Thanks For Trying, November 21st, 2016

Photo Credits:

Wikipedia, Creative Commons, Jack Russell terrier sitting and tilting her head, Writ Keeper

I am Your Dog’s Meninges

March 14, 2025November 21, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Your dog’s meninges are structures your dog may hopefully never have a problem with, but as with other dog body parts, there are always some fascinating things to discover. For instance, did you know that your dog’s brain, on top of being protected by the skull, is also protected by several layers of tissue? These layers of tissue are basically your dog’s meninges.

Meninges have several functions and just as other dog body parts they are predisposed to medical conditions and problems. So today, let’s discover more about a dog’s meninges, what their purpose is and when things go wrong.

I am Your Dog’s Meninges

Hello, it’s your dog’s meninges talking! Our name comes from the ancient Greek word “meninx” which means membrane. As our name implies, we are membranes that envelop your dog’s brain.

Imagine your dog’s brain as being an onion while we are the layers. There are three layers of us actually covering the brain: the dura mater, the arachnoid mater and the pia mater. Let’s take a closer look at these layers individually, shall we?

Coming from the Latin word for”tough mother,” the dura mater is a thick membrane that is found closest to the skull.

The arachnoid mater, discovered in 1664 by the Dutch anatomist Gerardus Blasiusm, is the layer that is sandwiched in the middle. Its name derives from the the Greek word “Arachne” (“spider”) because of its spider-web like appearance.

Finally, the last layer is the pia mater, coming from the Latin word for “tender mother.” This is the most delicate membrane. This structure adheres to the surface and contours of the brain and spinal cord.

In between the layers of the arachnoid and pia mater, there is a space that is filled with cerebrospinal fluid.

We Protect the Central Nervous System

As you can imagine, we play a protective role. Together, we protect your dog’s central nervous system including the brain and spinal cord. The dura mater is quite thick, and as the name implies, the”tough mother” acts like a mother protecting her child (the brain.) The arachnoid mater provides also provides cushioning for the central nervous system while the pia mater on the other hand, contains blood vessels and small capillaries which are meant for providing nourishment to the dog’s brain.

When Things Go Wrong

We are susceptible to the effects of trauma. When the trauma is forceful enough, affected dogs may develop a subarachnoid hemorrhage, meaning that there is bleeding under the arachnoid. A hematoma, a collection of blood from torn veins, may also form between the arachnoid layer and the dura mater layer.

As with other structures, we also prone to getting inflamed. Fortunately, though this doesn’t happen as often as in other body parts courtesy of the protective barriers of the nervous system such as the blood brain barrier.

However, when these barriers weaken and we do get inflamed, the condition is known as meningitis. This inflammatory condition can be caused by viruses, protozoa, rickettsia, and fungi. Affected dogs develop an elevated temperature, neck pain, muscular spasms and rigidity. Left untreated, meningitis can progress and cause serious neurological problems such as seizures, paralysis and even death.

In some cases, we can also develop tumors, and these are referred to meningiomas. Meningiomas are likely the most common cause of seizures affecting dogs over the age of six, explains veterinarian Wendy C. Brooks. On top of causing seizures, these tumors can cause a dog to walk in circles, drag toes, and walk in a drunk-like gait. Since, most meningiomas in dogs develop in the front part of the skull, where the olfactory lobes are located, an altered sense of smell may also occur.

Meningioma tumors grow from the skull inward, which makes them more advantageous for surgical removal compared to growths set deep in the brain. Not all meningiomas are malignant, actually most tend to be benign, meaning that they do not spread to other areas. However, any growths in this area can be problematic, considering the limited amount of space within the dog’s skull. For this reason, prednisone is often prescribed to reduce the problematic swelling. Anti-seizure meds are also often prescribed, but these are only palliatives, a more definitive treatment involves surgical removal of the growth and/or radiation therapy.

As seen, we are quite important structures! Think about what a good job we do in preserving your dog’s brain and spinal cord! Yours truly,

Your dog’s meninges.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for veterinary advice. If your dog is sick, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

References:

Merck Veterinary Manual, Meningitis and Encephalitis in Dogs, retrieved from the web on November 20th, 2016

Six Scary Dangers of Not Picking Up Dog Poop

March 14, 2025November 20, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Dog poop: it’s something inevitable that comes with dog ownership, but there can be some serious risks associated with the practice of not picking up dog poop and we’re not talking about breaking the law and getting fined. Sure, paying a fine is not pleasant, but dog poop laws are not just just there because of unsightly piles of doggy poop in the midst of a pristine yard; rather, there is much more to that. Learning more about facts about dog waste may be a yucky topic to talk about, and some risks may seem to come out straight from a horror movie, but it’s important information for both dog owners and not. So today we’ll be discovering some facts about dog waste and the dangers of not picking up dog poop.

Hookworm Larvae Penetrating Feet

If you are one of those dog owners who loves to walk barefoot in your yards, here’s a spoiler alert: after reading this, you might not want to ever walk without shoes again. Hookworms are zoonotic parasites, which means that they can passed along to humans.

The larvae of these pesky parasites are known for causing a skin infection that it referred to as “ cutaneous larva migrans.”

How do people get this infection? A dog infected by hookworms will pass several hookworm eggs in their stools. If the poop is not disposed of in a timely matter, the eggs will hatch into larvae that contaminate the soil.

To get infected, all it takes is to walk barefoot on this contaminated soil and the larvae will burrow into the skin.

According to the Centers for Disease Control, puppies and kittens are most commonly infected with hookworms, and children playing or walking barefoot in the area where dogs or cats frequent, are at risk for this condition.

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“Wearing shoes and taking other protective measures to avoid skin contact with sand or soil will prevent infection with zoonotic hookworms. Routine veterinary care of dogs and cats, including regular deworming, will reduce environmental contamination with zoonotic hookworm eggs and larvae. Prompt disposal of animal feces prevents eggs from hatching and contaminating soil — which makes it important for control of this parasitic infection.”~Centers for Disease Control

Did you know? Hookworm infections are most prevalent in the coastal areas of the United States from southern New Jersey to the Florida Keys and then from along the Gulf of Mexico to Texas. (Source DVM360)

Roundworm Larvae in the Eyes

dog-digging Another pesky parasite that may be found in dog feces are roundworms (toxocara canis). Roudworms, like hookworms, are zoonotic parasites, meaning that they can be passed to humans. The term toxocariasis is used to depict the infection caused by parasitic roundworms.

How do people get this infection? Roundworms are found in the digestive tract of puppies and dogs. A puppy or dog infected with roundworms will shed the eggs in their feces. When the dog’s poop isn’t picked up in a timely manner, the eggs are released into the soil. Children or adults who handle the soil and do not wash their hands, may ingest the eggs if the dirt is accidentally swallowed.

While in dogs roundworms tend to stick to living in the dog’s intestinal tract, when they infect humans they behave in different ways.

Young children are more at risk for a complication known as ocular toxocariasis, where roundworm larvae migrate to the eye which can cause inflammation and even vision loss. On top of that, the larvae may also migrate to organs such as the nervous system and liver, a condition known as visceral toxocariasis which may cause vague, systemic symptoms such as fatigue, fever, coughing and abdominal pain.

“In most cases, Toxocara infections are not serious, and many people, especially adults infected by a small number of larvae (immature worms), may not notice any symptoms. The most severe cases are rare, but are more likely to occur in young children, who often play in dirt, or eat dirt (pica) contaminated by dog or cat feces.”~Centers for Disease Control

Did you know? Statistics show that in the United States almost 14 percent of the population has been infected with Toxocara and children and adolescents under the age of 20 are the most likely to get infected. (Source: CDC) In the United States toxocaral larva migrans is known for causing hundreds of cases of unilateral blindness, and an uncountable number of cases are found to cause less permanent forms of illness in children. (Source DVM360)

Giardia Cysts in the Digestive System

Giardia is another pesky parasite that may affect humans, but the Centers for Disease Control report that risk of contracting giardia from a dog is rare because the type of Giardia known for infecting humans is different from the type that infects dogs and cats. However, rare doesn’t mean a person should keep his guard down and take unnecessary risks.

Here’s what happens with this parasite. Dogs are exposed to giardia, a protozoan parasite, when they ingest the infected cysts found in another animal’s feces or water that has been contaminated by feces.

Once the cysts reach the dog’s small intestine, they shed the active form of the parasite which attach to the walls of the dog’s intestine where they settle and start reproducing. At some point, the active forms of the parasite encase themselves into cysts once again and are evacuated along with a dog’s feces.

How do people get infected? In order for people to get giardia from their dogs, they would have to get in contact with water, grass or soil that has been contaminated with dog feces which contains the cysts. Another way dogs can give giardia to humans, is if the dog licks his behind and then licks a human who fails to wash his hands. Symptoms of giardia infection includes diarrhea, gas, stomach pain, greasy stools that float and possibly, nausea and vomiting.

“Anything that comes into contact with feces (poop) from infected humans or animals can become contaminated with the Giardia parasite. People and animals become infected when they swallow the parasite…Wear gloves when gardening to reduce the risk of coming into contact with infected feces (poop) or soil. Remove feces promptly and put them in a plastic bag.”~(Source CDC)

Did you know? Another similar condition to giardia is cryptosporidium, a protozoan parasite known to infect rodents, calves, dogs, cats and people. As other diseases listed in the article, transmission from dogs to humans occurs through fecal contamination. Mostly affected people are immunocompromised people, such as those affected by HIV/AIDS, who may develop severe diarrhea that never resolves and can even become fatal, explains veterinarian Dr. Arnold Plotnick.

Campylobacter Bacteria in the Stomach

Sometimes, conditions transmitted from the stool of dogs come from bacteria rather than parasites or protozoans. In this case, we’re talking about campylobacteriosism, an infectious conditon caused by campylobacter bacteria. Dogs get infected by getting in contact with contaminated food or water or from the feces of ill animals. The most common type of campylobacter affecting humans that comes from dogs is campylobacter jejuni.

How do people get it? Humans may get the disease from ingesting the juice of raw chicken meat or using a contaminated cutting board to chop salads, but also from contact with the stools of an infected dog or cat. According to the Centers for Disease Control, it just takes fewer than 500 organisms to make a person ill with campylobacter.

Campylobacteriosis in humans causes diarrhea, cramps, nausea, vomiting, stomach pain, and fever, generally 2 to 5 days after getting in contact with the organism. In people with a compromised immune system, campylobacter can cause a serious, life-threatening infection. As always, it’s advised to pick up dog feces and wash hands with soap and water afterwards.

Salmonella Germs in the Digestive Tract

Most people have heard about salmonella, the germ that’s known to be found in raw meats and eggs, but not many people know they can get it also from dog feces. In 2012, there was a recall of multiple brands of pet foods by Diamond Pet foods, and back then it was linked to many people getting sick. Here’s a little summary of how this condition affects people and dogs

Dogs and cats may get ill from consuming foods that are infected with salmonella. The infection causes typical salmonella symptoms such as bloody diarrhea, lethargy, fever and even vomiting. Not always though infected dogs show symptoms.

How do people get it? Salmonella is transmitted from dogs to humans and humans to humans from the fecal oral route. The dog sheds salmonella germs in the stools, and, according to the CDC, the dog’s stool may carry them from 4 to 6 weeks after the infection. As always, dog owners should pick up their dog’s poop and people who interact with the dog should always wash their hands with soap and water after handling and feeding the dog.

Wash your hands as directed in the handwashing instructions. Clean up after your pet. If you have a dog, use a plastic bag to pick up the stool, and clean up the stool while on walks or from the yard and dispose of the stool in a tightly sealed plastic bag.~Centers for Disease Control

Echinococcus Larvae in The Liver

As if it wasn’t enough, there are also pesky parasites that may be interested in inhabiting the human liver or lungs. In this case, we’re talking about tapeworms of the genus Echinococcus.

Sheep, goat, moose, caribou and other animals act as intermediate hosts that harbor the eggs which hatch in their small intestine. Once hatched, the larvae migrate to various organs, especially the liver and lungs where they become a cyst.

Dogs are then fed the cyst-containing organs of these animals and become infected as well. In Canada and Alaska, the practice of feeding dogs the viscera of moose and caribou may lead to infections in dogs that are then transmissible to humans. In other areas such as California, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona, the practice of feeding the viscera of sheep was also found to infect dogs. Another form of echinococcosis may infect dogs when they eat infected wild rodents.

How do humans get infected? Humans get infected by accidentally swallowing the eggs of Echinococcus that may be found in the soil, water o vegetables that have been contaminated with infected dog feces.

Once ingested, the larvae may cause growths in the liver or other organs. Affected humans may feel generalized pain in the chest and abdomen, nausea, vomiting and coughing may take place. In some cases, allergic reactions and even death may occur. While this condition remains quite rare, there is a potential for a more serious public health problem considering that domestic dogs are becoming more involved in the life cycle, explains veterinarian Peter M. Schantz.

“Humans can be exposed to these eggs by “hand-to-mouth” transfer or contamination. By ingesting food, water or soil contaminated with stool from infected dogs. This might include grass, herbs, greens, or berries gathered from fields. (Source CDC)

What Dog Owners Can Do

As seen, these conditions are scary enough to deter dog owners from leaving poop around. Those pooper scooper laws are therefore in place for some very good reasons that go far beyond the cosmetic appeal of lawns, public parks and sidewalks.

On top of picking up dog poop, dog owners can lower the chances for zoonotic diseases by having the feces of puppies and dogs routinely checked by a vet and by de-worming accordingly.

Children should be supervised and not allowed to play in areas that are soiled with dog feces. They should be warned to never eat dirt. And of course, hands should always be washed with soap and water after handling dirt and playing with dogs.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional medical or veterinary advice. If your dog is sick, please see your vet. If you, your child or a family member is sick, please see your medical provider.

References:

Centers for Disease Control, Giardia, retrieved from the web on November 20, 2016
Centers for Disease Control Toxocara Roundworms retrieved from the web on November 20, 2016
DVM360, Zoonotic parasitic infections contracted from dogs and cats: How frequent are they?, retrieved from the web on November 20, 2016

Photo Credits

Flickr Creative Commons, John Collins, DSC_3594 (CC BY 2.0)
Flickr, Creative Commons, Lulu Hoeller, Dog Drinking Toilet, Every dogs dream – a working toilet fountain in the back yard, CCBY2.0

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Facts about Mast Cell Tumors Dog Owners Should Know

March 14, 2025November 19, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

There are various types of tumors that affect dogs, but there is one in particular, the mast cell tumor, which can behave quite erratically and that deserves a dog owner’s attention. Dog owners should keep their vigilant antennas up and pay attention when petting and grooming their dogs as these tumors are not only quite common but also quite unpredictable in nature. Mast cell tumors, also known as mastocytomas, are one reason why, even the most innocent looking bump or lump should be checked out by a veterinarian. This is why it’s never really a good idea to take a wait and see approach with any lumps and bumps, unless a veterinarian has determined that it’s safe to do so. So today, let’s take a look at some surprising facts about mast cell tumors in dogs.

Mast Cell Tumors are Copy Cats…

Mast cell tumors in dogs are often referred to as “the great imitators,” why is that? Mast cell tumors gain this reputation from the fact that they can clinically resemble many other types of dog skin tumors. (See pictures for an idea)

Mast cell tumors may therefore look like an innocent bump, a fatty mass under the skin, an ugly ulcerated mass or a bug bite. You name it! Mast cell tumors in dogs can also be smooth, bumpy, solitary or in groups and they may be present on the skin or underlying tissues.

This is again why, one can’t never say what a mass really is until it gets checked out. However, despite having a variety of clinical appearances, if one must describe how a mast cell in a dog looks like on average, a mast cell tumor can be described as a hairless, pink, raised mass that prefers to show up on the dog’s torso and legs, explains Steven Neihaus, a board-certified veterinary surgeon.

“Mast cell tumors can occur anywhere on the body. Approximately 50% occur on the trunk, 40% on limbs, and 10% on the head. ” Source, DVM360

And They Can Play Peek-a-Boo too.

Dog mast cell tumors can be quite unpredictable tumors. For instance, some mast cells tumors may have a history of shrinking for some time and then swelling up again.

The shrinking may lead dog owners to assume that the growth is something that is getting smaller which may cause them to delay treatment. Then, after a while they get a wake-up call once the growth starts swelling up again.

This history of shrinking and then swelling is due to the mast cell tumor’s tendency to degranulate and release histamine, explains Tracy Geiger, a board-certified veterinarian specializing in internal medicine.

Mast Cell Tumors Release Substances…

Mast cell tumors don’t just sit there all day long doing nothing. These tumors originate from the bone marrow but then finish up maturing in the tissues of a dog’s body and this can includes skin, digestive tract and respiratory tract.

Once stimulated by the immune system, mast cells tumors release their granular contents along with several chemicals and these may include histamine, proteoglycans, neutral proteases (enzymes that break down protein) and chemotactic growth factors.

Histamine in particular, is basically the same stuff that causes an area of the skin affected by a bee stings to become red, inflamed and painful.When all these chemicals are released, they can, not surprisingly, wreck quite some have havoc on a dog’s body.

That Can Cause Complications

As mentioned, mast cell tumors are quite insidious in nature causing a variety of problems when they release chemicals.

Among dog mast cell tumor complications, at a skin level, recurrent swelling may occur due to degranulation and associated release of histamine, while local bruising, this time from the release of heparin, may be present as well.

When mast cells tumors release histamine into the dog’s bloodstream, they may trigger the dog’s stomach lining to produce too much acid and this may lead to a decrease in appetite, nausea, lip smacking, drooling and vomiting, explains veterinarian Dr. Dressler.

Because of these dog mast cell tumor complications, anti-acids are often prescribed to manage the excess acid production, while antihistamines are used to block the release of histamine allowing the body a better chance of coping with the high histamine levels. Both cancerous and non-cancerous forms of mast cell tumors may release histamine.

” Dogs can also develop signs associated with the release of toxins from the malignant mast cells. For example, up to a quarter of dogs with mast cell tumors also have stomach ulcers due to histamine release.” ~Merck Veterinary Manual

They Can be Quite Easily Diagnosed

In the case of a suspected lump or bump, it can be aspirated with a fine needle to determine whether the growth is cancerous or not. The needle aspiration is done with a small gauge needle and shouldn’t be painful hence, the term “fine needle aspiration.”

The fine needle aspirate cells can then be evaluated under a microscope (cytology) in house or the sample can be sent out to be evaluated by a pathologist.

Under a microscope, the sample typically shows a large number of mast cells which is enough to make a diagnosis of mast cell tumor. Mast cells show up as purples granules that contain histamine.Once mast cell tumor is confirmed, a surgical biopsy is needed to discover the grade of the tumor.

“Diagnosis can often be made with a needle aspirate, which collects some cells of the tumor with a needle, and the cells are examined under the microscope. The granules have distinct staining characteristics leading to their recognition. An actual tissue biopsy, however, is needed to grade the tumor and grading of the tumor is crucial to determining prognosis.”~Dr. Wendy C. Brooks

But Removal Requires Wide Margins

If you think that surgery to remove a mast cell tumor involves just simply removing only the the lump or bump, think again.

In order to get rid of this pesky tumor, wide margins are required. Because it’s difficult to tell where the tumor begins and where it ends, a large area of about 3 inches of ‘healthy’ tissue in all directions must be removed. So this explains why dog mast cell tumor need wide margins.

Getting wide mast cell tumor margins though can sometimes be a problem depending on where the tumor is located. For instance, mast cell tumors on the neck or in the mouth may be problematic.

Should the mast cell tumors have metastasized to other areas, a combo of anti-cancer drugs may be used along with surgery and radiation. For the best treatment plan, it’s often a good idea to consult with a veterinary oncologist.

The Bottom Line

Here are some more dog mast cell tumor facts: mast cell tumors in dogs account for up to 20 percent of all tumors affecting the skin in dogs. While they may mostly affect older dogs, they can be found in dogs of any age dog. Mast cell tumors may also affect any breed, even though certain breeds such as boxers, pugs, Boston terriers, bulldogs, bull terriers, and retrievers are known for being predisposed. As with other types of tumors, it’s important to promptly report to the vet any suspicious growth, lump or bump for the best possible outcome.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has a growth on his skin, please consult with your vet promptly for proper diagnosis and treatment.

References:

Pet Education: Canine Mast Cell Tumors, retrieved from the web on November 19th, 2016.
Dog Cancer Blog, Why use stomach medication for mast cell tumors? retrieved from the web on November 19th, 2016.
Dog Cancer Blog, Why Benadryl For Mast Cell Tumors? retrieved from the web on November 19th, 2016.
DVM360, Mast cell tumors in dogs and cats, retrived from the web on November 18th, 2016

Photo Credits:

- Mast cell tumor on the side of a dog Joel Mills Own work, CCBY3.0
- Mast cell tumor on the inner thigh of a dog, by Joel Mills Own work CCBY3.0
- Mast cell tumor of the paw, Joel Mills Own work, CCBY3.0
- Mast cell tumor cytology Joel Mills – Own work CCBY3.0

Four Different Ways Dogs Learn

March 14, 2025November 17, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

How do dogs learn? When it comes to learning, dogs can be taught in several ways. Dogs do not come with an operating instruction manual nor with a troubleshooting guide. It’s up to us to understand how to teach a dog so that the dog can learn.

It is only by understanding the underlying machine that motivates dogs that we can really understand the engineering behind the art of dog training. Understanding how dogs learn is not difficult, nor should it be intimidating for dog owners.

Today, we’ll be taking a peak at four ways dogs may learn that a particular behavior has a consequence. By fully understanding dog learning theory, basically, the four consequences that can take place when dogs interact with their owners and their environment, you can make the learning process easier. Also, you can identify which dog friendly training methods to use so that you can better bond with your companion.

Life is a Series of Consequences

Think about your daily life—how many actions do you take based on potential consequences? You go to work because you get paid, you wear sunscreen to avoid sunburn, and you avoid speeding because getting a ticket is expensive (and stressful). Every decision we make is, in some way, influenced by outcomes. Dogs, too, learn by experiencing consequences.

In behavioral science, this cause-and-effect principle is known as operant conditioning, a term coined by B.F. Skinner but originally explored by Edward Thorndike. His Law of Effect states:

Responses that produce a satisfying effect in a particular situation become more likely to occur again, while responses that produce discomforting effects become less likely.

In simpler terms, behaviors that lead to good outcomes will repeat, while behaviors that lead to unpleasant outcomes will fade away. This fundamental concept is the blueprint of how dogs learn.

A Word About Reinforcement

Reinforcement is a behavior change process that takes place when the likelihood of a behavior increases in rate.

Reinforcement encourages behaviors and therefore it increases the likeliness of the behavior occurring.

Reinforcement can occur as the addition or subtraction of stimuli.

In order to be effective, reinforcement must occur in a timely manner and it must be contingent upon the behavior occurring.

For reinforcement to occur, the reinforcing stimulus should be added or subtracted during or immediately after a behavior.

When it comes to how dogs learn, there are two scenarios where dogs are more likely to increase and strengthen behaviors: positive reinforcement and negative reinforcement.

Did you know? Reinforcement can sometimes be generated directly by the behavior itself within the dog (self-reinforcement), rather than being socially mediated by the interactions between dog and trainer.

A Word About Punishment

Punishment is a behavior change process that takes place when the rate of a behavior decreases in rate.

Punishment suppresses behaviors, and therefore, it decreases the likeliness of the behavior occurring.

Punishment can occur as the addition or subtraction of stimuli. In order to be effective, punishment must occur in a timely manner and it must be contingent upon the behavior occurring.

For punishment to occur, the punisher stimulus must be added or subtracted during or immediately after a behavior. When it comes to how dogs learn, there are two scenarios where dogs are more likely to decrease and weaken behaviors: positive punishment and negative punishment.

Confused by all this? Let’s take a closer look at how dogs learn with some practical dog operant conditioning examples.

1. Positive Reinforcement: The Gold Standard

If there were an MVP award for dog training methods, positive reinforcement would win hands-down. This method involves adding (hence, “positive”) something enjoyable to increase the likelihood of a behavior occurring again.

Example:

Every time your dog sits on cue, you hand him a delicious treat. Over time, he eagerly sits whenever you ask because he has learned that “sitting = tasty rewards.”

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog discovers rabbit poop near the fence line. Since the poop is an irresistible delicacy (don’t judge—dogs have interesting tastes), the behavior of sniffing around the fence increases. The environment, not the human, has reinforced the behavior.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to your dog to determine what he considers to be reinforcing. If you use your dog ‘s kibble and your dog is a finicky eater to start with, he might find the fact of being offered kibble not reinforcing enough to make sitting repeatedly for it worth it. In such a case, you may have to experiment with high-value treats or other rewards, to get the sitting behavior to increase. Rather than speculating on whether your dog likes something or not, sometimes it’s far more productive to evaluate whether a behavior is increasing or not.

2. Negative Reinforcement: Escape & Avoidance

Negative reinforcement (the removal of something unpleasant to encourage behavior) is often misunderstood. While it can be effective, it is not as dog-friendly as positive reinforcement.

Example:

Applying steady pressure on a dog’s back end until he sits, then releasing the pressure once he does. The removal of pressure reinforces the sitting behavior.

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog retreats into his doghouse on a hot summer day to escape the burning sun. Since the shade brings relief, he’s more likely to seek shelter in the future.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to your dog to determine what he considers reinforcing. If your dog is really, really eager to be touched, even if that includes, pushing on his back, his sitting behavior will likely not increase. The behavior will increase only if the dog perceives the pressure as unpleasant and wants to escape it. Same with the example of the sun, in order to retreat to the dog house the dog must find the heat unpleasant. A Nordic dog with a heavy coat may therefore retreat more frequently or with minimum heat compared to a Chihuahua.

3. Positive Punishment: Adding an Aversive

Positive punishment occurs when something unpleasant is added to decrease a behavior. This quadrant is controversial, as it involves applying an aversive stimulus.

Example:

A dog jumps up on a person, and the person scolds him sternly. If the scolding is perceived as unpleasant, the jumping may decrease.

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog approaches a skunk and gets sprayed. After that, he learns to keep his distance from skunks.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to the dog to determine whether he considers the removal of a stimulus punishment. If the dog is home alone all day and socially motivated, there should be a significant decrease in the rate of jumping as the dog doesn’t like to be left alone. If the owner is home all day though, and the dog is often corrected for doing things which creates stress, the dog may perceive the owner’s absence as reinforcing, as he gets a feeling of relief.

4. Negative Punishment: Taking Away the Good Stuff

Negative punishment occurs when something desirable is removed to decrease an unwanted behavior.

Example:

A dog jumps up excitedly when his owner arrives home. To reduce jumping, the owner immediately turns away and ignores the dog. Over time, the jumping decreases because the dog learns that jumping makes the fun stop.

Real-World Canine Example:

A dog pounces at a squirrel, but the squirrel dashes into a hole and disappears. The dog, learning that pouncing isn’t an effective strategy, may eventually stop doing it.

Key Takeaway:

Remember, it’s up to the dog to determine whether the added stimulus is punishing enough to make the behavior of jumping stop. If the dog in question is a soft dog who is also frightened by his owner when he uses a firm voice, the behavior of jumping may reduce and eventually stop. If the dog has been alone all day and is eager to greet the owner, even being scolded may be perceived as music to ears, so the scolding may be actually reinforcing if it gives him a slice of attention. In this case, the behavior will like not stop.

Which Methods Are Most Humane?

Of the four quadrants, positive reinforcement and negative punishment are widely considered the most humane and effective in training. The use of positive punishment and negative reinforcement often involves aversive, which can lead to stress, anxiety, or even aggression.

Aversive Training Risks

Many studies have highlighted the drawbacks of aversive training methods. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) and many board-certified veterinary behaviorists (DACVBs) strongly discourage positive punishment due to its potential for unintended side effects. For a deeper look at why aversive training is problematic, check out this must-read: “13 Negative Effects of Aversive Dog Training“.

The Final Verdict: Is Your Training Working?

One of the best ways to evaluate your training method is to ask yourself one simple question: Is my dog’s behavior increasing or decreasing?

If a behavior is increasing, reinforcement is at play.
If a behavior is decreasing, punishment is at work.

Dogs learn not only from their owners but also from their environment. Every interaction they have shapes their future behavior.

Want to learn more? Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dive into other ways dogs learn, including classical conditioning and social learning.

Final Thoughts: Learning Is a Two-Way Street

Understanding how dogs learn isn’t just about training them—it’s about strengthening your bond. By using science-backed, humane methods, you ensure your dog learns in a way that fosters trust, joy, and cooperation. Because at the end of the day, training isn’t just about getting a dog to “behave”—it’s about setting both of you up for a lifetime of mutual understanding.

Now go forth, reinforce wisely, and give your pup a treat for making it through this article!

References:

Excel-Erated Learning: Explaining in Plain English How Dogs Learn and How Best to Teach by Pamela J. Reid, James Kenneth Publishers (July 25, 2011)
How Dogs Learn (Howell reference books)by Mary R. Burch, Howell Book House; 1 edition (April 21, 2008)

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, TheRebelRobin Graduation! Blaze graduated from Dog Training 101, CCBY2.0