Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

Discovering the Effects of Testosterone on Dog Behavior

February 22, 2025December 16, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

A dog’s endocrine system is composed by several glands that are meant to produce hormones which are then transmitted through the bloodstream where they have several effects on the dog’s body and mind.

The hormone testosterone, in particular, is secreted by the male dog’s testes and is known for producing several physiological and behavioral effects. So today let’s discover more about the effects testosterone has on dog behavior, and surprisingly, on female dogs as well!

Testosterone Starts in the Womb…

Testosterone generally flows at a pretty steady pace during an intact (not neutered) male dog’s life, but there are two specific times during a dog’s lifetime during which this hormone significantly impacts the dog’s brain. The first time likely takes place very early in development, when the puppy is still in the womb.

During this time, testosterone is spread from the amniotic membrane and through the blood flowing from the uterus until it reaches the pup’s brain. Once in the dog’s brain, it’s as if testosterone turns on an imaginary switch that prompts the brain to undergo anatomical changes and turns on the “masculine” button.

Also, it appears that the hormone creates a predisposition for hard-wired behaviors in male dogs that may remain dormant until the next testosterone surge switches on later in life.

“In the uterus, testosterone can diffuse through the amniotic membrane and through uterine blood flow. Once it reaches the male dog’s brain, it brings about gender-specific structural changes that then relate to later development of sex-typical behaviors… These changes masculinize the male brain structure.” James O’ Heare

And May Affect Female Dogs Too!

Wait, what does testosterone have to do with female dogs? Isn’t testosterone exclusively a male dog hormone? While testosterone is associated with maleness and typical male dogs behaviors, there are chances it may affect female dogs too. How is that? Well, here’s an insight into what may be happening

The phenomenon is known as androgenization, and it takes place in the uterus (yup in the womb). What’s likely to trigger this is a matter of the position of female dogs in the mother dog’s womb. If a female dog happens to be positioned between two males, there are chances her brain may be influenced (masculinized) courtesy of the diffusion of testosterone through the amniotic membrane, explains James O’Heare in the book “Aggressive Behavior in Dogs: A Comprehensive Technical Manual for Professionals.”

“Strong experimental evidence suggests that female embryos situated between males in the uterus are more likely to develop male-like aggressive tendencies and scent-marking patterns than are counterparts otherwise situated. Some suggestive evidence regarding the effects of perinatal androgenization of female dogs has been reported by Coppola. ~Steven Lindsay

But it’s During Puberty That Dogs Get the Big Surge.

Back to male dogs, the second surge of testosterone occurs when the male dog reaches puberty. According to a study by Pathirana IN et al 2012, the levels of testosterone in dogs starts to rise in dogs just prior to puberty, around the ages of 4 to 6 months old, and then reaches a surge once the dog reaches puberty, generally when the dog is an adolescent between 6 and 12 months. Afterwards, testosterone levels maintain a state of little or no change, generally from when the dog is one to five years old and then those levels starts declining when the dog becomes senior.

As Expected, Testosterone Triggers Male Behaviors…

During the puberty surge in testosterone, there is often an increase in sexually dimorphic behaviors, basically behaviors that are mostly seen in male dogs. This is often when owners of intact dogs start noticing behaviors such as roaming in search of a mate, lifting the leg to urine mark, mounting, and competition with other male dogs. These behaviors are often what causes dog owners to consider neutering their dogs.

But there Are Chances Neutering May Reduce Them.

When a male dog is neutered (castration) the removal of a dog’s testes causes the production of testosterone to come to a halt. With testosterone levels reduced, there is often a marked decrease in behaviors driven by hormones such as urine marking, roaming in search of a mate and competition with other male dogs.

For those looking for statistics, a study has found that after neutering, roaming behavior decreased 90 percent, aggression between male dogs decreased 62 percent, urine marking decreased 50 percent and mounting decreased 80 percent.

However, there’s not much good news for dog owners expecting to see their male dogs calm down and settle after castration. That’s likely never going to happen any time soon because excitability and unruly behaviors are seldom driven by testosterone, explains Mat Ward, a Certificated Clinical Animal Behaviorist. On top of that, owners must consider that, despite the statistics appearing promising, neutering does not necessarily have total control over stopping sexually dimorphic behaviors.

But a New Study Says Neutering Won’t Likely Do Much to Stop Aggression.

Many people consider neutering their dogs because they feel that testosterone plays a role in aggression, but how true is that? For many years, and in many cases still as of today, the advice to neuter a dog is given out by dog trainers and veterinarians when presented with an intact male dog showing signs of aggressive behavior.

Neutering therefore has been commonly recommended throughout the years and has been a strong selling point to solve aggression problems, but it’s not that easy to justify the common notion that neutering is a cure-all. So does neutering stop dog aggression?

Karen Overall in her book Clinical behavioral medicine for small animals, talks about testosterone acting as a behavior modulator causing intact dogs to react more quickly, more intensely and for a longer period of time compared to neutered dogs. However, she also warns that when it comes to aggression, neutering a dog may lower the tendency to exhibit aggression towards other dogs (which can be hormonally driven); but there’s not enough data to show the effects neutering may have on other specific types of aggressive behaviors.

Indeed, in most cases, neutering won’t fix dog behavior problems such as territorial or fear-induced aggression,resource guarding or food aggression. This is likely because there are several other factors at play other than hormones when dogs behave aggressively such as the impact of the environment in which the dog is raised, the dog’s genetic makeup, the dog’s history, and so forth. However, it’s also true that testosterone has been known to affect anxiety behaviors; for instance, among humans men who fail to produce enough testosterone tend to be more likely to suffer from anxiety and depression and testosterone treatments tend to alleviate these.

Interestingly, for those looking for data, a study using a large sample of dogs conducted by Parvene Farhoody and M. Christine Zink, found strong correlations between neutering and aggression, with neutered dogs exhibiting high levels of fear, anxiety and excitability, regardless of when the dog was neutered. And this is quite impressive data, especially considering the increase in aggressive behaviors seen in the past years in our companion dogs and considering the fact that a large percentage of aggressive behavior in dogs stems from fear, which coincidentally correlates with the modern trend of neutering dogs.

” Our data showed that the behavior of neutered dogs was significantly different from that of intact dogs in ways that contradict the prevailing view. Among the findings, neutered dogs were more aggressive, fearful, excitable, and less trainable than intact dogs. “~Parvene Farhoody & M. Christine Zink

References:

Hopkins SG, Schubert TA, Hart BL. Castration of adult male dogs: effects on roaming, aggression, urine marking, and mounting. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1976;168:1108–1110.
Overall KL. Clinical behavioral medicine for small animals. St Louis: Mosby Year Book Inc, 1997.
Cooley DM, Beranek BC, Schlittler DL, et al. Endogenous gonadal hormone exposure and bone sarcoma risk. Canc Epidemiol Biomark Prev 2002;11:1434-1440.
Howe LM, Slater MR, Boothe HW, et al. Long-term outcome of gonadectomy performed at an early age or traditional age in dogs. J Amer Vet Med Assoc 2001;218:217-221.
Pathirana IN et al (2012) Plasma insulin-like peptide 3 and testosterone concentrations in male dogs: changes with age and effects of cryptorchidism. Theriogenology77(3):550-557
Farhoody, P. Behavioral and Physical Effects of Spaying and Neutering Domestic Dogs. Smmary of findings detailed in Masters thesis submitted to and accepted by Hunter College in May 2010.
Hart, B. L., & Eckstein, R. A. (1997). The role of gonadal hormones in the occurrence of objectionable behaviours in dogs and cats. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 52, 331-344.
Aggressive Behavior in Dogs: A Comprehensive Technical Manual for Professionals, James O’Heare, Dogwise Ebooks; 2 edition (April 17, 2014)

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons Renee , Roxie supports breast cancer awareness, CCBY2.0

Flick Creative Commons, Andrew Vargas I’ll flick you up if you login one more time! CCBY2.0

What’s Up With Dogs Walking in a U-Shape?

February 16, 2025December 15, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Among the variety of odd things dogs do, a dog walking in a U-shape is one of those behaviors that make us wonder what on earth may be going in Rover’s mind. As with any odd behaviors in dogs, it’s always important to evaluate whether the behavior is one of those things dogs do in certain specific contexts or if perhaps it’s a behavior that may stem from an underlying health problem and that therefore warrants a trip to the vet. As usual, behaviors that are unusual for a specific dog, and that start out of the blue, should raise a red flag.

A Greeting Behavior

Some dogs will curve their bodies when they are greeting you such as in the morning or when you come home from work. With the head and butt facing you, ears back and tail wagging, your dog is likely celebrating your return and letting you know you’re special.

This U- shape walking is just temporary and in context with these greetings and other happy moments. At other times, the dog walks normally.

Why does the dog assume this typical U shape? Most likely it’s the dog’s way to present both his face and anal area for inspection as a sign of friendship or in more technical terms, a willingness to engage in affiliative behavior. As we have seen in a previous article, dogs engage in different dog greeting behaviors, and often these entail mouth and rear end investigations.

A Sign of Apology

Dogs cannot tell each other “excuse me” or “I am sorry” the way we do. Instead, they must rely on their body language to prevent misinterpretations and potential conflict.

Well-socialized dogs are often pretty good in resolving conflict, sending and acknowledging messages that have a pacifying purpose and show an intent to not cause harm.

It could therefore happen that an incident takes place that could potentially appear as a challenge and lead to misunderstanding, when it is not. In this case, the dog may adopt active appeasement signals to prevent possible conflict that could lead to aggression. A dog may also assume such signals with the owner upon noticing signs of the owner being upset or angered.

Walking around in a U-shape, C-shape or banana shape may be therefore a dog’s way to send an “apology” or calm down another dog or owner. Typically, the dog approaches in a crouched posture with the ears back and tail low and between the legs (Shenkel 1967). The tail wag may involve the whole rear end area. If with another dog, the dog may also nudge his muzzle towards the other dog’s face and give several brief licks geared toward the mouth or lips. According to Shenkel these appeasing signals are reminiscent of the days when dogs were young pups engaging in infantile food- begging behaviors.

Medical Conditions

A dog who in walking in a U- shape or a dog walking in a curved C-shape can sometimes be suggestive of a medical problem. For example, a dog who walks curved may be experiencing back problems, such as IVDD, a progressive deterioration of the discs in the spine, but it could also be a sign of a dog with some digestive issue or even gland problems.

If your dog is suddenly walking in a U shape with an anrched back and curved body and it doesn’t seem like it’s part of greeting behavior or an appeasement signal, please see your vet to determine if there may be something medically going on.

Dogs can be quite stoic in not showing signs of pain, and the only signs of dog pain we may see at times is limping or an unusual posture.

“When a dog arches the back the way your dog is doing is because of pain either in the abdomen (belly) or in the back (pinch nerve or pulled muscle)”~ Dr. Peter

References:

Schenkel R. 1967 Submission: its features and function in the wolf and dog. American Zoologist 7. 319-329
Aggressive Behaviors in Dogs, James O’ Heare, 2007 Dog Psych Publishing Ottawa Canada p 86.

Photo Credits:

A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

Dog Word of the Day: What is a Dog’s Topline?

March 7, 2025December 14, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

In the world of working dogs, body conformation is important and the dog’s topline has played an important role in allowing dogs to perform the tasks they were bred for, but exactly what is a dog’s topline? You may have heard this word before perhaps at dog shows or among breeders, but the term is often used vaguely without giving out much information about what it truly depicts. So today we will be taking a closer look into what a topline is in dogs and its importance.

What is a Dog’s Topline?

So what is a dog’s topline? A dog’s topline is the profile line that goes from the dog’s shoulders to the base of the tail, tells us Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation specialist Dr. Christine Zink in the book “Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete.”

Imagine drawing with a pencil the profile of the dog’s body from the withers (where the shoulders meet the neck, right over the scapula blades) to the tail. That’s the profile line of the topline.

The topline therefore includes the back (area between withers and loin), the loin (from end of the rib cage to the pelvis) and croup (area behind the hips and below the tail).

As mentioned, not all toplines are designed equally. If you were a graphic artist, therefore, that line may be straight, arched or sloped depending on what breed you were drawing. What difference does a straight, arched or sloped topline make in dogs? Let’s discover the effects these different types of toplines have on dogs.

Did you know? The profile line that contours the brisket (the front part of the chest) and the abdominal floor is known as “underline.” Another term that often generates confusion is “backline.” Some people use the term backline to exclusively depict the profile line drawn from withers to tail, and top line to depict the whole silhouette of the dog from the dog’s occiput to tail. In this article we decided to use the term topline because that’s what the American Kennel Club‘s glossary uses to depict “ the outline from just behind the withers to the tail set.”

Straight Topline in Dogs

The topline can be straight in some dog breeds. So if you were drawing these dog breeds that profile line would be for the most part straight from the shoulder area to the tail.

In the world of conformation, a straight topline is referred to as being level. Most dog breeds are meant to have a level topline, therefore the majority of dogs tend to fall under this category.

Examples of dog breeds with a straight topline include the Skye terrier, Yorkshire terrier, Chihuahua, Labrador retriever, chow chow, Golden retriever and many, many more.

What effects does a straight topline have on dogs? A straight topline allows dogs to efficiently trot at consistent speeds.

Arched Topline in Dogs

The topline can be arched in some dogs breeds. So if you were drawing these dog breeds the profile line would arch towards the loin area.

The most notorious arched loins are found in many sight hound dog breeds such as the Scottish deerhound, borzoi, Italian greyhound and the whippet, as seen in the picture.

In these dog breeds, the arched loin allows flexibility of the spine so that the rear legs can be tucked well under at a gallop allowing them to cover more ground with each stride.

If one observes closely, in these breeds at a gallop, the rear foot is almost able to nearly pass the point of shoulder, as seen in the picture below. When a dog’s arch is continuous affecting also the croup, it tends to lead to the low tail set often seen in many sight hounds.

When it comes to arched toplines, it’s important to make one important distinction though. No American Kennel Club standard calls for a topline in sighthounds starting to rise from the withers, points out dog show judge Patti Widick Neale. It’s the back that rises a little at the loin area and not the whole topline, as often seen in several Art Deco statues depicting greyhounds!

“The key to the arch is flexibility essential in the double suspension gallop allowing the dog to double up on the ground and straighten in midair.”~Lisa Dubé Forman

Did you know? A faulty topline that arches starting from the withers is known as “wheelback” and affected dogs have a bouncy, energy-wasting gait that interferes with flexibility.

Sloped Topline in Dogs

The topline can be sloped in some dog breeds. So if you were drawing these dogs breeds, the profile line would slope towards the loin area, a bit like a mountain slope. Some people refer to this tendency as sagging or roaching back. Dogs with a sloping topline tend to have more angulation in the rear legs which results in a lowered rear.

A notorious dog breed with a sloped back is the German shepherd. However, excessive sloping is sadly a new trend that strays away from the breed standard. Max Von Stephanitz, the creator of the German shepherd breed, described the German shepherd as having a back that was “straight and powerful.” And then, he further added “curvature of the spine diminishes the power of endurance and speed, and is therefore, an especially serious handicap for efficiency..”

The new trend is mostly seen in the show lines of this breed. According to Louis Donald, a working dog judge, the curved spine seen in German shepherds dogs is fruit of a ”very small number of very influential people” that go by the name of “breed authorities” who promoted this feature at dog shows. The breed’s conformation therefore shifted from a straight, powerful back to sloped with an exaggerated hind leg angulation, features that would perhaps make respected Von Stephanitz roll over in the grave. The American Kennel Club doesn’t even call for a sloping back in the German Shepherd breed and actually refers to it as a fault.

“The back is straight, very strongly developed without sag or roach, and relatively short.”~ German Shepherd breed standard, American Kennel Club

Did you know? German shepherd dogs with sloping backs are now often nicknamed ” the hatchback, “downhill dog” and “dog in front, frog in back.”

References:

An Eye for a Dog: Illustrated Guide to Judging Purebred Dog, By Robert W. Cole, Dogwise Publishing, (June 1, 2004)
Golden Retriever, By Jeffrey G. Pepper, Kennel Club Books (July 31, 2012)
Encyclopedia of K9 Terminology By Edward M. Gilbert, Jr, Patricia H. Gilbert, Dogwise Publishing; 1st edition (September 18, 2013)
Peak Performance – Coaching the Canine Athlete, by M. Christine Zink DVM PhD (Author) Howell Book House (October 1992)

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Calsidyrose, Running Dog photo from “All About Horses,” by Marguerite Henry CCBY2.0
Wikipedia Creative Commons, Scorch, son of Torch owned by Maureen StrenfelTaken Feb 22,2004 at the SMART/USDAA dog agility competition in Salinas, CA. Photo by Ellen Levy Finch (Elf). CCBY3.0
Yorkshire Terrier by Pelz – Eigenes Werk, Yorkshire Terrier Rüde CCBY3.0
Wikipedia Creative Commons, The show-line dogs usually have an extremely sloping topline, revista de monogràfiques del pastor alemany, Copyrighted free use
Lateral view of a dog skeleton Wilhelm Ellenberger and Hermann Baum – University of Wisconsin Digital Collections Animal anatomical engraving from Handbuch der Anatomie der Tiere für Künstler’ – Hermann Dittrich, illustrator. Public domain.

What Dog Breed is Nicknamed “The Gamekeeper’s Night Dog”?

March 4, 2025December 13, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

When it comes to the world of dog breeds, many of them are provided with nicknames and some of them are plain cute, others are more on the honorable side while some others portray what the dog breed was used for.

We therefore have dogs nicknamed the “Firehouse Dog” or the “Dutch Barge Dog” and then we have the “Gamekeepers Night Dog.” As the name implies, these dogs likely pulled guard duty at night and therefore were dogs who must have looked quite imposing. Can you therefore guess this trivia question?

What dog breed is nicknamed “the Gamekeepers Night Dog?”

A – The Rottweiler

B – The bullmastiff

C – The great dane

D – The Doberman

The correct answer is: drum roll please…

The Correct answer is B, the dog nicknamed the gamekeeper’s night dog is the bullmastiff.

What is a Gamekeeper?

The Gamekeeper, by Richard Andsell, 1815-85

To better understand the nightly duties of the Gamekeepers Night Dog, one must first understand exactly what is a gamekeeper. A gamekeeper is basically an individual employed by a landowner who is responsible for managing an area of the countryside.

His main job is to ensure that there is enough game for shooting or fish for fishing. Gamekeepers, therefore, monitor farmland, woodland and moorland, to ensure that game birds, fish and wildlife in general are not threatened.

Poaching, the illegal capturing of wild animals, was a problem back in the days when impoverished peasants were searching for sustainable food. In the 17th and 18th centuries poaching was considered a serious crime that could have lead to imprisonment or even death by hanging.

Back in those times, the nobility had exclusive rights to hunt and fish on the lands they ruled and any intrusion by poachers was considered a serious intrusion of those rights.

Introducing the Bullmastiff

Thorneywood Terror. Source: “Sporting Dogs. Their Points And Management In Health, And Disease”, by Frank Townend Barton.

As one may imagine, a gamekeeper had to pay a lot of attention to his surroundings, but no worries, here comes the bullmastiff!

The bullmastiff is a large dog who was purposely developed by 19th century gamekeepers to help them guard large English estates. Standing between 25 and 27 inches at the withers and weighing between 100 and 120 pounds, the bullmastiff provided quite an imposing presence.

Bullmastiffs were created by crossing mastiffs with the early ancestors of the bulldog. Mastiffs were large but they were too slow, while bulldogs were fast and tenacious but they weren’t much imposing, so they combined these two breeds and got the best of both worlds. And the rest is history.

Bullmastiffs were known for their fearless and confident demeanor and for tracking quietly covering short distances quickly. While bullmastiffs today also come in a fawn coat, back in time when poachers abounded, the brindle coat was particularly cherished as it worked best for camouflage in the forest at night.

Did you know? A bullmastiff going by the name of Thorneywood Terror (picture above) had a history of being known as the best night dog ever. Mr. W. Burton, of Thorneywood Kennels, Nottingham, bred bullmastiffs and challenged people to try to escape from Thorneywood Terror. He therefore would muzzle his dog and then give volunteers a 10 minute head start into the forest. Thorneywood Terror never failed to catch and hold the volunteers and Burton made much money this way!

Bullmastiff Guardian Style

“The Poacher at Bay” by Richard Andsell, 1865

Silence was a virtue when looking for poachers on estates, therefore the bullmastiff has a history of not barking much. The American Bullmatiff Association describes bullmastiffs as being independent thinkers. They had to make their own decisions at times but their job wasn’t to maul people. Instead, they would knock down and hold poachers until the gamekeepers arrived.

This breed’s large and square head worked perfectly for the task of pinning the poacher down and holding him. Also known as “Poacher’s Nightmare” these dogs were quite effective in deterring poachers and keeping them at bay, so much so that poachers feared them often more than the gatekeeper himself!

“The original gamekeeper’s night dog was appropriately brindle, and this original color of choice is for obvious reasons: a brindle dog could blend well with the vegetation, with the dark muzzle and ears further providing camouflage even when his head was lifted up to sense, smell or sight the poacher. ” American Kennel Club

The Bullmastiff Today

After a while, poaching declined and the bullmastiffs took a whole new role as guardian dogs. Because it was no longer necessary to camouflage in the dark, the fawn coat with a black mask became common. Today, bullmastiffs are used mostly to fill the role as loving companions. These devoted dogs require loads of early socialization and training.

It’s important to invest time in teaching bullmastiffs to become accepting of strangers when welcomed by their owners. Ideally, when the door bell rings, a well trained mastiff should accompany the owner at the door and patiently wait behind the owner or on a mat with a “wait and see” demeanor. When the person is accepted in the home, he should accept that. Failure to provide sufficient socialization may lead to a bullmastiff is suspicious of everyone, which can lead to fear and defensive biting.

While bullmastiffs are large, despite their fleetness of foot they are overall calm and quiet as adults, once the boisterous puppy times are over. Many may find it appealing that these dogs are in need of moderate exercise and are generally pretty much mellow fellows.

“Fearless and confident yet docile. The dog combines the reliability, intelligence, and willingness to please required in a dependable family companion and protector.”~ American Kennel Club

Photo Credits

Picture of a Bullmastiff, author Kumarrrr, CCBY2.5, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported
The Gamekeeper, painting by Richard Andsell, 1815-85.
“The Poacher at Bay” painting by Richard Andsell, 1865

I am Your Dog’s Chest

February 20, 2025December 12, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Unless you are in the dog show business spending lots of time studying conformation, you may have never paid particular attention to your dog’s chest. Perhaps you may have found yourself occasionally taking measurements of your dog’s chest (girth) when shopping for a harness or you may have seen your vet listening to your dog’s heart with a stethoscope through your dog’s chest wall.

A dog’s chest though has much more to offer and there are many interesting facts to discover. So today, let’s discover more a bout a dog’s chest, its important functions and any associated problems with this body part.

Introducing Your Dog’s Chest

Hi there, it’s your dog’s chest talking! I am happy you are interested in hearing my story. I have a lot of little pieces of information to share with you. First, let’s start with my name. I also go by the medical name thorax, which derives from the ancient Greek word thorakos meaning “breastplate.” You might also be interested in learning more about your dog’s thoracic cavity (chest cavity) and thoracic wall (chest wall). Where am I located? I am right between your dog’s neck and his abdomen.

You may find it interesting that my length, width and depth may vary between one breed and another. You may therefore have breeds such as the greyhound equipped with very deep and narrow chests and then you may stumble on dog breeds with a very wide chest area but barely deep (for example the bulldog.)

What does a deep chest exactly mean though? In dogs, a deep chest means that it extends to or below the dog’s elbows as seen in dobermans, dachshunds and Irish wolfhounds. A deep chest therefore depicts depth, not width, points out Carina Macdonald, in the book “Knack Dog Care and Training.” Because dogs were selectively bred to carry out different functions, my structure therefore has been morphed to meet specific needs.

Did you know? Deep-chested dogs are more predisposed to developing a potentially life threatening condition known as gastric dilatation volvulus (GDV). Why are deep-chested dogs more predisposed to bloat and (GDV)? A deep chest allows more room for the stomach to move and twist on itself. See picture below.

I House Important Organs

I am home to your dog’s heart and lungs which are critical to your dog’s life. Mother Nature has made sure to protect these vital organs enclosing them in a cage made out of ribs. In an animal crafted for sprinting at high speeds such as the greyhound, I was purposely crafted to allow maximum expansion of the lungs. That’s why I am so deep and narrow in this running breed.

Learning how to perform chest compressions is something that all dog owners should learn how to do and is a must for those dealing with dogs on a daily basis such as pet sitters, dog trainers and dog walkers. Chest compressions entail pushing down on the unconscious dog’s chest in hopes of getting his heart pumping. When artificial respiration is given along with chest compressions it’s called cardiopulmonary resuscitation, or CPR. CPR classes for pets are often taught in veterinary offices, pet stores, training clubs and are sometimes even organized by the Red Cross.

When Things Go Wrong

While I am overall pretty sturdy, I can only take so much. Traumatic injuries to the chest wall are unfortunately not uncommon in dogs. They may stem from being hit by car, kicked by a horse or a stab/impalement wound such as running into a branch, but in many cases the trauma to the chest area area in animals is due to bite wounds sustained by small dog breeds.

Thoracic trauma may lead to complications such as broken ribs and penetrating wounds may affect the pleural lining of the thorax (a thin sheet of tissue that lines the chest and wraps around the dog’s lungs) leading to pneumothorax, hemothorax, diaphragmatic hernia and pleural or pericardial effusion.

I can sometimes accumulate fluids within my cavity. When fluids collect, they either collect within the lungs or between the chest wall and the lungs, explains veterinarian Dr. Hunt. An X-ray can help differentiate them. Accumulation of fluids in the dog’s chest cavity may be due to bacterial or viral infections, pneumonia or heart failure. In some cases, a swollen chest may be a sign of low protein due to an underlying liver problem. If your dog is showing symptoms of chest congestion or fluid accumulation, he or she definitely needs checked out by a vet.

As seen, I play quite an important role in your dog’s life! Please keep your pal safe from injury and see your vet promptly if you see any signs of problems.

Yours truly,

You Dog’s Chest

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is sick or not acting right, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

References:

Knack Dog Care and Training: A Complete Illustrated Guide to Adopting, House-Breaking, and Raising a Healthy Dog, by Carina Macdonald, Globe Pequot Press; 1 Original edition (July 15, 2009)
DVM360, Pulmonary contusions and other thoracic trauma (Proceedings) retrieved from the web on December 11th, 2016
DVM360, Pleural space disease and chest taps and tubes (Proceedings) retrieved from the web on December 11th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Photo By Ruth Lawson. Otago Polytechnic.The original uploader was Sunshineconnelly at English Wikibooks – Transferred from en.wikibooks to Commons by Adrignola using CommonsHelper. CCBY3.0
The greyhound in 1864: being the second edition of a treatise on the art of breeding, rearing, and training greyhounds for public running …By John Henry Walsh Edition: 2 Published by Longman, Green, Longman, Roberts, & Green, 1864 Public Domain

What’s Up With Dogs Standing Over Other Dogs?

February 17, 2025December 11, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Watching dogs interact can provide a lot of insights into the different ways dogs communicate, and among the variety of behavioral displays, a dog standing over another dog can be one of those behaviors that has many people wondering what it means. Is the behavior of a dog standing over other dogs a sign of trouble and therefore one of those behaviors that require intervention? Is it play? As always, when it comes to dog behavior there are no rules written in stone as there are so many variables. Let’s take a closer look into the behavior and see what the experts in the field say.

A Closer Insight

What exactly is a dog who is standing over other dogs doing? Many dog owners describe it as a dog who places himself perpendicular to another dog in what is often referred to as a “T posture.”

Along with positioning himself perpendicularly at a 90 degree angle in respect to the other dog, the dog may also attempt to place a paw on the shoulder of the other dog, or perhaps rest his head or chin on the other dog (chin-over).

You can sometimes see these fellows literally standing on tiptoe when they do this as if trying to seem taller and imposing. Some dogs will stand over other dogs that are lying down with their neck arched over them.

“The perpendicular or T posture is where one dog stands with his or her head or neck over another dog.”~Karen Overall

What Does it Mean?

Veterinary behaviorist Karen Overall in the book “Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats” defines the perpendicular T posture assumed by a dog interacting with another dog as an interaction that is involving social challenge. When a dog postures in this way, he gets in the other dog’s way and limits the other dog’s room for maneuver. Dr. Overall lists the “T posture” as an agonistic behavior that is likely to have an aggressive component.

What exactly are agonistic behaviors? According to Roger Abrantes, agonistic behaviors include all forms of intraspecific behavior (within a species) related to aggression, fear, threat, fight or flight. Behaviors that yes, are functionally related with aggressive behavior, but that yet fall outside its narrow definition.”

On a lighter note, sometimes standing over may be just part of a dog’s way to attempt to control a situation, perhaps because of an underlying sense of insecurity. This posture is sometimes seen in adult dogs dealing with hyper pups as a way of trying to gain control of the pup’s rambunctious behavior.

This type of posturing can also be part of a dog’s play behavior repertoire and can even be seen in young puppies. According to Overall, standing over with the head arched is a behavior that can be seen among litter mates considering that learning the ABC’s of agonistic behavior is a normal part of puppy development.

“Standing over another dog who is lying down… This is a blatant way of saying “I am bigger, taller and in charge.” Adult dogs often stand directly over puppies to make it clear that they are still controlling any interactions with them.”~Stanley Coren

Is it Dominant or Aggressive Behavior?

Is standing over in dogs a sign of dominance? Is the dog standing over the other dog dominant? Many people wonder about this and sometimes heated discussions arise around the usage of the term “dominance.”

Dominance is not a personality trait, reminds us Sophia Yin. It’s a relationship between animals so to determine who has priority access to resources such as food, sleeping areas and mates (Bernstein 1981; Drews 1993).

Social hierarchies do exist among domesticated dogs (after all, even humans live in a hierarchical world, think president, vice-president etc.) but among dogs, the structure tends to be fluid. A dog may therefore show more “assertive” behaviors in one encounter with a dog and act more “deferent” in the next, depending on what’s at stake, explains Pat Miller.

The term dominance should therefore not be used lightly. According to Karen Overall “It would be inappropriate to assume that agonistic behavior alone defines a dominant-subordinate relationship or a pack relationship. Terminology affiliated with packs, pack behavior and rules about social organization within packs is unduly simplistic and should not be used uncritically.” It would be incorrect therefore to imply that a behavior such as standing over means that the dog doing it is “dominant” and the dog being subjected to it is ‘subordinate.”

Is standing over aggressive behavior? When it comes to agonistic behaviors, there may be components of outright aggression, but there also may be certain signals and displays which are meant to avoid aggression from happening in the first place. Unless there are actual injuries occurring, more likely there are ritualistic displays at play rather than overt aggressive ones. In other words, don’t be so fast in placing labels on dog behaviors! Notice how Roger Abrantes in the quote below is careful not to say “dominant dog” or “aggressive dog”, but rather mentions “dominant behavior” and aggressive behavior to prevent labeling/ascribing personality traits.

“Dominant behavior is situational, individual and resource related. One individual displaying dominant behavior in one specific situation does not necessarily show it on another occasion toward another individual, or toward the same individual in another situation… If any of the parties incur injury, then the behavior is aggressive and not dominant.” Roger Abrantes

Preventing Problems

A direct face-to-face meeting of two dogs who do not know each other can trigger conflict at times. It’s important to learn the signs of trouble before things escalate. A safe distance often can provide a better outcome. Dogs should be prevented from rehearsing “standing over behaviors” which can turn problematic and risk becoming overtime default behaviors used in all encounters with other dogs. In the video below you can see an interaction that involves “standing over” and how things escalate from there. What precipitated the “snark?” Did the leash exacerbate things? Or did the brown dog make a move that was just too much to tolerate? In other words, could this have been avoided? As always, readers are free to share thoughts in the comment section.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional behavioral advice. If your dog is manifesting concerning behaviors towards other dogs, please consult with a behavior professional.

References:

Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
AVSAB Position Statement on the Use of Dominance Theory in Behavior Modification of Animals, retrieved from the web on December 11th, 2016
The Pet Professional Guild, Position Statement on the Use of Dominance Theory in Animal Training retrieved from the web on December 11th, 2016
Roger Abrantes, Dominance—Making Sense of the Nonsense, retrieved from the web on December 11th, 2016

What’s Up With Dogs Licking the Air?

February 18, 2025December 10, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Among the many odd things dogs do, dogs licking the air or dogs snapping at the air are behaviors that often leave owners baffled, wondering what may be going on. If your dog is licking and snapping the air, and he’s not in playful mood or feeling threatened, don’t just assume it’s an odd, perhaps even funny behavior, and leave it as that. Licking the air may seem like one of those behavior “quirks” dogs often display, but it can be triggered by some underlying medical condition. If your dog is sitting quietly and then gets these “spells” of licking the air, this behavior warrants investigation. A regular vet may help find the underlying cause, but sometimes, in challenging cases, a consultation with a board-certified veterinary specialist is needed.

Air Snapping in Dogs

Dog owners often describe their dogs as if biting at some imaginary fly hovering in the air, but in reality there are no bugs around. For this reason, this behavior of air licking is also known as “fly biting” or “fly snapping.” Other dog owners describe it as a dog who is chasing imaginary things, up to the point of making them wonder whether their dogs are responding to some sort of paranormal activity!

Dogs who are repeatedly licking their lips are sometimes said to be lip smacking but this behavior is a tad bit different than air snapping.

In air snapping, as the name implies, the dog is watching something and then moving the head forward and snapping as if trying to catch something; whereas, in lip smacking, the dog is only repeatedly passing his tongue over his lips and making smacking noises as if there’s peanut butter stuck to the roof of the dog’s mouth.

With this distinction pointed out, following are are several causes for dogs licking the air:

Possible Partial Seizure

We often imagine seizures as the abrupt onset of uncontrollable muscle activity with the dog falling to his side, paddling and foaming at the mouth. These dramatic and scary episodes are known as gran mal seizures, but partial seizures are a type of seizures that are more on the discreet side.

Also known as focal seizures, partial seizures are limited to only a part of the brain’s hemisphere and therefore produces symptoms based on what part of the brain is affected. Affected dogs may just twitch a part of their body or engage in fly catching.

Diagnosing seizures is not easy in dogs as it would require recording the brain waves produced during the epileptic event in hopes of detecting the associated brain wave abnormalities, but it’s not like dogs can sit still for extended periods of time with electrodes stuck on their bodies while waiting for a seizure to happen!

Generally, if the episodes are infrequent, and therefore, quite sporadic, they’re not much cause for concern unless they increase in frequency or are accompanied by grand-mal seizures, explains board-certified veterinary neurologist, David O’ Brien.

However, if the dog’s seizures happen frequently enough, dogs are often put on an anti-seizure medication trial. The dog owner therefore observes the dog while he’s on an anti-epileptic medication and reports to the vet any seizure activity occurring during the trial. If the the dog air licking episodes subside, then it’s indicative that the spells were likely indeed seizures.

“The fly-biters are still a bit of a question mark for veterinary neurologists. We think they are a type of complex partial seizure, but the evidence is not conclusive.”~David O’ Brien

Presence of Vitreous Floaters

Floaters are not limited to humans, they can affect dogs as well. What exactly are floaters and how do they affect dogs? Just like us, the dog’s eye is filled with a gel-like substance known as “vitreous.”

As dogs age, this substance thins and pulls away from the retina, a condition known as posterior vitreous detachment. When this occurs, floaters, which are small particles of vitreous gel, may be present.

In humans, floaters are described as being seen like debris that floats on the eyes and disturbing vision. In dogs, there’s belief that floaters may not be well understood and dogs may therefore believe that there are actual objects floating around triggering the instinct to want to catch them.

For this reason, vitreous floaters are sometimes referred to as “flying flies.” While floaters can be easily diagnosed by a vet by carefully looking into the dog’s eyes using an opthalmoscope, there are chances that fly biting behaviors are not due to eye problems. Vitreous floaters are not only uncommon, but also fly biting is more likely to occur because of some dysfunction of the dog’s temporal or occipital lobe, explains Kirk N. Gelatt, a veterinary ophthalmologist in the book “Essentials of Veterinary Ophthalmology.“

A Digestive Disorder

In some cases, licking the air has been found to be indicative of a digestive disorder. A study conducted by researchers from the University of Montréal Veterinary Teaching Hospital evaluated 7 dogs with a history of fly biting with their episodes lasting anywhere from once daily to an episode every hour.

Recordings of their fly biting events showed that the dogs were raising their heads and extending their necks prior to snapping at the air, a behavior that was suggestive of some sort of discomfort with their esophagus. When these dogs were examined, they were all found to have a digestive abnormality. Medical treatment successfully solved most of these dog’s underlying digestive issues and therefore tackled the fly biting behavior.

” All dogs with oral repetitive behaviors should undergo a complete medical work-up to rule out GI disease before evaluation for behavioral disorder.”~John Ciribassi

A Behavioral Disorder

In behavioral medicine, licking the air and fly biting have been reported to possibly be caused by a compulsive behavior disorder. It’s a mistake to assume fly biting is behavioral issue from the get-go without first having the dog evaluated for underlying medical problems. Once medical problems have been ruled out, then, the next step may be consulting with a veterinarian specializing in behavior problems.

Dogs are known for often exhibiting odd, repetitive and bizarre behaviors such as chasing lights, flank sucking, chasing tails, spinning and fly biting is one of them. Fly biting when performed repeatedly by the dog and intently, so much so that it is difficult to interrupt, may be a sign of a compulsive disorder.

Such compulsive disorders can be problematic as they interfere with the dog’s normal activities. The behavior may start out of conflict or frustration and then become a default behavior that dogs use, often occupying a high percentage of their time.

Treatment in this case entails pharmacological intervention most often using serotonin reuptake inhibitors along with behavior modification in hopes of reducing the behavior and re-directing the dog to normal activities.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is engaging in air licking, air snapping or fly biting, please consult with your vet.

References:

Frank D, Bélanger MC, Bécuwe-Bonnet V, et al. Prospective medical evaluation of 7 dogs presented with fly biting. Can Vet J 2012;53:1279-1284.
DVM360, Compulsive disorders: Have you considered GI involvement? retrieved from the web on December 10th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr. Creative Commons, Tony Alter, Nose Check CCBY2.0
A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

Five Tips on Naming Your Dog

February 14, 2025December 9, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The Science of Dog Naming: Guide to Picking the Perfect Name

When it comes to naming your dog, you likely want something catchy, meaningful, and fun to say. But have you ever considered what’s best for your dog? Unlike humans, dogs don’t inherently understand names; they learn through associative learning, much like responding to a dog whistle.

Given that a name functions as an auditory cue, selecting the right one can enhance communication and training. Let’s explore the science behind dog names and how to choose one that benefits both you and your canine companion.

1. Keep It Different from Training Cues

From your dog’s perspective, a name is simply another cue—just like “sit” or “stay.” It signals them to pay attention, especially when followed by “come!” If a name sounds too similar to a training cue, it can cause confusion and slow the learning process.

Consider these sound-alike pitfalls:

“Brown” or “Clown” may be confused with “down.”
“Kay,” “Fay,” or “May” resemble “stay.”
“Phil” or “Steel” sound like “heel.”
“Butch” or “Catch” may sound like “watch.”
“Tidbit,” “Smith,” “Quick,” “Pit,” or “Kit” can be mistaken for “sit.”
“Oliver” sounds suspiciously like “roll over.”

If you’re set on a name that resembles a command, consider modifying the cue instead. Advanced planning can prevent unnecessary training hurdles down the road.

Pro Tip: If you own two dogs, avoid giving them names that sound too similar, like “Molly” and “Holly.” Otherwise, you might find yourself with two dogs responding at once—or worse, neither responding at all!

2. Keep It Short and Sweet

Have you ever gone to a dog show and felt intrigued by the long and weird names of certain dogs? Well, in the world of showing dogs, those long names are there for several good reasons! First off, those show dogs needs a name that stands out and doesn’t resemble in any way quintessential dog names such as Missy or Fluffy, but most importantly, often, the dog’s name includes information about the dog’s ancestry, something that the owners are very proud after years of breeding certain bloodlines.

Not to mention, sometimes special titles are also added into the mix making these names even longer! For instance, Sky, the wire fox terrier who won the 2012 AKC championship is named “GCH Afterall Painting the Sky.“The GCH in this case stands for the title of grand championship.

As you can imagine, if a show dog would be called by his official name, he would be long gone and missing by the time the owner ends up finishing pronouncing the dog’s name! But of course, things must get practical, which is why owners of show dogs give their dogs another name to respond to, in this case a shorter nickname that’s formally known as the “call name.”

Ideally, a dog’s name should be one or two syllables long to ensure quick pronunciation and immediate recognition.

Did you know? The American Kennel Club allows registration of dog names that can be up to 36 characters long. Need more? For a $10 fee owners can use up to 5o!

But while “Sir Fluffington the Magnificent” might sound regal, calling him “Fluff” is far more effective.

3. Use Strong Consonants

Names with sharp consonants like “P,” “K,” and “D” tend to capture a dog’s attention more effectively. Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., explains that these sounds create “broad-band” frequencies, similar to clickers, which stimulate a dog’s acoustic receptor neurons more than softer sounds.

For example:

Names like “Pip,” “Kai,” and “Dax” will likely stand out.
“Hope” is a favorite among Border Collie owners for a reason—it’s clear, crisp, and engaging.

While any name can be trained through positive reinforcement, selecting one with strong consonants gives you an edge in getting your dog to respond quickly, especially in high-energy situations like agility training.

There…, now you know why so many border collies are named Hope!

“If you analyze the acoustics of spoken language, you’ll find that saying hard consonants, such as “k,” “p” and “d,” create what are called “broad-band” sounds, with lots of energy across a range of frequencies.” ~Patricia McConnell

4. Give It Meaning

Dogs don’t understand names inherently; they learn them through association. If you repeat your dog’s name without reinforcing it with something positive, it becomes just another meaningless sound. This is why some dogs develop “name deafness”—they simply tune you out.

To build strong associations, think of your dog’s name as a “battery” that you need to charge with positive experiences:

Food Training: Say your dog’s name, and the moment they look at you, toss a treat. Repeat in a quiet setting until they recognize their name means something good is coming.
Play Training: Call your dog’s name before throwing a toy or initiating a game.
Adventure Training: Use their name before walks, car rides, or other enjoyable activities.

Major Rule: Never use your dog’s name before something negative (e.g., “Buddy! Bath time!”) if they dislike it. This can “drain the battery” you worked so hard to charge. Instead, pair their name with rewards and positive experiences to maintain its power.

As Stanley Coren, Ph.D., explains:

“A dog’s name becomes a signal which tells him that the next sounds that come out of his master’s mouth are supposed to have some impact on the his life. Thus a dog’s name linguistically translates into something like “This next message is for you.” ~Stanley Coren

5. Re-Naming a Dog After Adoption

Worried about changing your new rescue dog’s name? Don’t be. Dogs adapt well to new names if introduced correctly.

If your adopted dog already responds to a name you dislike (say, “Cujo”), transition gradually:

Say “Cujo!” and reward with a treat.
Introduce the new name alongside the old: “Samson-Cujo!” Reward.
Gradually phase out the old name: “Samsoon-jo!” Reward.
Eventually, drop the old name altogether: “Samson!” Reward generously.
Practice in different settings with varying distractions.

With time and consistency, your dog will learn their new name just as they did the old one—through positive reinforcement and association.

Final Thoughts

Choosing a dog’s name is both a fun and important task. A well-chosen name makes training easier, strengthens communication, and fosters a deeper bond with your pet. By considering how dogs perceive names, you can set your furry friend up for success right from the start.

So, go ahead and pick that perfect name—just make sure it’s one your dog will love as much as you do!

References:

Psychology Today, The Art and Science of Naming a Dog, retrieved from the web on Dec 9th, 2016
The Bark, A Dog by Any Other Name, retrieved from the web on Dec 9th, 2016

What’s Up With Dogs Growling When Moved Off the Bed?

February 17, 2025December 8, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

It’s that noise that every dog owner dreads, a deep guttural growl emitted the minute your dog is pushed off the bed, but what’s really up with dogs growling when moved off the bed? Why are they so grumpy about it? It often starts with you asking your dog “politely” to get off the bed, and then, trying with a firmer “I mean business” tone of voice. Since your dog gives a deaf ear and decides he doesn’t want give up his “throne,” you are then forced to use plan B and grab his collar to get him off or even give him a push, and out of nowhere comes that growl. What’s going on? Is Rover acting like a bully? Here’s a little guide on what’s more likely going on from Rover’s perspective.

There Are Always Two Sides of the Story

You might have heard about your friend who has been cheating on her husband or your co-worker may have told you how her boss hurt her feelings, but before making a judgement, have you heard both sides of the story?

This seems to have become a forgotten practice. Failure to hear the whole story from both points of view, failure to gather factual information and failure to distance oneself so to remain emotionally detached, may often lead to a rushed, inaccurate judgement.

Situations of he said/she said are particularly challenging especially when the other party happens to be a dog.

The dog not only cannot talk to provide his version of the story, but he happens to speak a totally different language and all that dog owners often hear is that final “grrrr” which is perceived as the ultimate proof of the dog’s stubborn nature and reluctance to got off the couch.

“Why can’t I remember that not once have I ever seen a coin, whether grimy copper or bright gold, that had but one side.” ~Andrew Levkoff,

From the Owner’s Perspective

Owners often describe the dynamics about a dog growling when asked to move off the bed as such: So I was walking through door and found Rover on my bed. I am not really too keen about having him sleep on the bed. So I first asked him nicely to get off. When I said “off” the first time, Rover ignored me. So I said “off” in a more serious tone of voice, leaning over him and pointing near his face. At this point, he even turned his head the other way and then yawned!

So since he was acting stubborn, I decided I had to push him off the bed. When I pushed him it was like trying to move an old piece of furniture, he wouldn’t budge. So I pushed harder, and he growled at me! I got scared and therefore stopped pushing him and left. I was afraid he was going to bite me!

So I let him be and now I am here asking for help because I am afraid of my dog growling at me when I ask him to get off the bed! Not only, now he also growls at me if I even come close to him when he’s on the bed! He’s telling me that he owns the bed! How do I deal with such a stubborn dog?

From Rover’s Perspective

Let’s take a closer look at what Rover may be silently telling the owner before the infamous growl. Here’s his version. So I was sleeping comfortably on the couch. I like to stay on the couch because it feels comfy and my owner has allowed it in the past. Now here comes my owner telling me “off.” I tilt my head wondering what that means. It almost seems like she’s trying to say “woof?” Next, the owner says “off” in a more serious tone and looms over me in an intimidating manner. That was quite scary!

So I started getting worried. What does “off” mean? It’s not like I was doing anything bad. I was just laying there! Is my owner in a bad mood today? I tried sending her some calming signals such as yawning or turning my head in hopes of calming my owner down, but this seemed to escalate her behavior.

So next she comes near him and starts pushing me. I don’t like that, I was never touched in such a way before. My ears are back as I try to make myself invisible as much as I can. But the pushing continues. Finally, I had to tell her “I don’t like what you are doing, please stop.” I think she got the message as she left the moment I growled. Pheeewww… that was really odd and scary! Glad it’s over. Now, I can try to relax and hopefully go back to snoozing. I guess if she comes back and comes anywhere near me, I might have to remind her that I didn’t like her intimidating approach.

A Better Understanding

Now that we heard Rover’s story, we have put some important pieces of information together and have noticed that the two sides of the story don’t match. While in real life, dogs cannot talk, a video of the episode or observing the interaction is often worth a thousand words; however, it’s often not safe to do so. However, from an accurate descriptions with details of Rover’s body language we can get gather pertinent information as to what may be going on. While the owner is convinced that Rover is acting stubborn and wants to claim the bed, Rover is telling us a different story. Let’s take a closer look.

No Idea What Off Means

First of all, Rover often has no idea of what “off” exactly means. When dog owners are inquired about it, turns out their dogs were never really trained to respond to the “off” cue. We often assume dogs will naturally understand certain words when told in a firm manner, such as telling the dog “off” or telling the dog ” no!” but it’s not like that.

Words like “no” or “off,” unless given a meaning through training, don’t provide enough information of what is asked of them and often just convey the message that we are in a bad mood. These words often result in a dog who feels confused and compelled to send calming signals left and right such as yawning, walking away or turning the head which are often interpreted by dog owners as a further sign of ignoring the owner and being stubborn.

After repeatedly hearing “off” and then being pushed away, there are chances that Rover starts to think that “off” is a bad word. Since dogs live in a world of associations, soon the word “off” therefore becomes a negative cue, a predictor sign that the owner is upset and something unpleasant is going to happen (being pushed or grabbed by the collar).

Please Stop That!

While the owner perceives the growl as the dog wanting to remain on the couch and “not giving up his throne” Rover is often not growling because of an intent to stay on the couch, but as a way to stop the owner from acting intimidating. Indeed, as soon as the owner leaves, the dog feels relief. In this case, for those interesting in learning how dogs learn, negative reinforcement is at play. Basically, the behavior of growling is rewarding because it feels good when something negative (the owner’s presence) goes away. Let’s provide a practical example of this.

Imagine working for a customer service department. An angry customer swings by and tells you he is angry because a TV he just bought is not working properly, but has no receipt and demands his money back. You act apologetic about it telling the customer how sorry you are (just like a dog sending calming signals to an angry owner) and explain that it’s against company policy making a return with no proof of purchase, but this only angers the customer more.

So you go to plan B. As for social etiquette, you certainly cannot address him as your instincts would like to (telling him to go away and stop pestering you, it’s not your fault!) as that could get you fired, but you tell you will give him the customer support hot line number to see what they can do. Since this works like a charm in calming the customer down, soon telling customers you’ll give them the customer support number becomes your preferred, default method of dealing with angry customers and making them go away. Ah, so much relief!

“Whereas the owner thinks the dog is growling to stay on the couch, the dog may actually be growling to get the owner to stop threatening it. “~Lore I. Haug

The Importance of Careful Assessments

Understanding the dynamics that trigger certain dog behaviors is important and can make a difference on the outcome of the choice of behavior modification. This is why it’s important to hire behavior consultants who take a factual approach paying careful attention to what is triggering the behavior and refraining from being lulled by certain labels that are given to dogs. Statements such as “My dog is acting like a bully” or “my dog is being stubborn” not only blur what may be truly going on masking the real dynamics, but also risks hurting the relationship between owner and dog.

Data obtained from collecting the dog’s behavioral history along with factual information obtained from interviewing the owners and possibly, observing a video of the problem behavior when safe and feasible to do so, can help behavior consultants attain a quite accurate description of the problem behavior and develop effective management strategies.

Implementing behavior modification based on faulty, non-scientific approaches can yield more problems down the road than bargained for. If a dog trainer using aversive dog training techniques and adhering to unscientific, narrow-viewed beliefs was not paying attention to gathering factual information and was hired for such a case, he or she may have believed that the dog was truly stubborn and trying to challenge the owner and may have suggested implementing a correction, under the form of a collar grab or a a scruff shake every time the dog refused to get off the bed.

This approach could seem to be working in the first few trials, but then the owner may notice that Rover now appears more stressed out than ever and now growls every time he’s touched by the neck area such as when the owner reaches out to pet him or to put the collar and leash on. This is because now the owner’s mere touch has assumed negative connotations. From bad to worse!

” While punishment may temporarily inhibit the aggressive response, stifling a growl, over time punishment often intensifies a dog’s reaction and escalates his aggression or anxiety. Punishment also damages your relationship of trust with your dog, as your interactions become less predictable. When you use force-based techniques, you increase the risk your dog will show aggression—and bite.” ~Mikkel Bekker

Other Possible Motives

Of course, dogs may behave in certain ways for various different reasons, and there’s never a cookie-cutter explanation for all. If it were that easy, there would be manuals with step-by-step guides on how to fix dog behaviors just as those handy-man manuals tackling how to fix a leaky faucet making it feasible for everybody to do it.

For instance, a dog may be growling because he’s actually really protective of the bed or couch, but not as to the materialistic “owning the couch” as many people may believe.

Dogs do not place value on objects in the same way we do with jewelry, watches or cars. When they act protective of items there are more likely items linked to the dog’s survival and fulfilling associated needs as the need to eat, sleep and feel secure.

So growling when somebody comes near a dog on the bed is perhaps more like “I feel safe and comfortable here” rather than “This bed is all mine! I am king of the house, now go away and go sleep on a mat, you subordinate owner!”

In some cases, it could be that the dog has mobility issues or is not feeling well and the presence of the owner, along with being asked to move away, has been associated with the pain. Stressed dogs who go on the couch or bed in a quiet room to escape from rambunctious children may perceive the couch as their safe haven and by growling they may be putting a virtual “please do not disturb sign” in hopes of preventing further pestering. And of course, dogs should never be disturbed when sleeping!

Regardless, sometimes looking for the exact cause may be time consuming and there are sometimes risks for misinterpretations no matter how hard one tries to find the ultimate motive, so at times it just helps going straight to fixing the issue. How can an issue as this be tackled? It often takes a multi-faceted approach by managing the dog’s environment so to prevent access to beds, couches and sofas if the dog tends to growl when on them which makes him rehearse the problem behavior. Providing the dog with a suitable replacement sleeping area such as a comfy dog bed is a great alternative. Get the best dog bed you can and make it extra appealing by giving a chew toy or long-lasting treat like a stuffed Kong while on it. Also, training the positive off cue may come handy just in case the dog manages to get on the couch despite our attempts in preventing access to it.

“Aggression is caused by cumulative stress that pushes a dog over his aggression threshold. We’re all grumpier when we’re stressed.”~ Pat Miller

References:

DVM360, The Facts About Growling, by Mikkel Becker, retrieved from the web on December 8th, 2016
Clinician Brief, Growling in Dogs, retrieved from the web on December 8th, 2016

How to Train a Dog to Get Off the Bed or Off Furniture

February 14, 2025December 8, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Let’s face it: dogs love couches, chairs, sofas, and beds for the same reasons we do—they are plush, inviting, and provide a sense of security. So, if you’re looking for ways to train your dog to get off the bed or furniture, you’re not alone! Teaching a dog the “off” cue requires patience, positive reinforcement, and a strategic approach, but the payoff is a dog that happily complies without stress or conflict.

First, Avoid These Common Training Mistakes!

If your initial instinct is to grab your dog’s collar, push them off, or issue a stern command simply because “you said so,” consider that these methods can lead to unintended consequences.

Physical corrections, such as pulling or pushing, can create negative associations with you and may cause defensive reactions.
Scruff shakes or scolding can lead to increased stress, fear, and even aggression, as your dog may not understand what they are being punished for.
Using intimidation tactics to remove your dog from furniture might result in resource guarding behaviors, making the situation worse over time.

So, what’s the alternative? A simple, positive, and effective method that teaches your dog what you actually want them to do instead of creating fear and confusion.

What is a Positive “Off” Cue?

A cue is a signal that prompts a behavior without implying any threat or consequence. The word “command” often suggests force or compulsion, which can lead to reluctance rather than cooperation. Instead, we aim for a “cue,” which is a clear and neutral request that results in reinforcement.

“A cue is completely different from a command. There is no threat implied with a cue. A cue is like a green light that tells the dog that now is the time to execute a behavior for the chance of reinforcement.” – Joan Orr

By teaching a positive “off” cue, we allow the dog to make a choice—and choices, especially when rewarded, build confidence and trust.

Choosing the Right Word Matters

The word you use is important. If you’ve previously used “off” in a harsh tone or while physically removing your dog, it may carry negative associations (known as a “poisoned cue“).

To avoid confusion, consider using a fresh cue like:

“Floor” (to indicate the dog should move onto the floor)
“Jump” (to encourage an active movement down)
“Down” is NOT recommended, as this is commonly used for lying down, which could create confusion.

How to Teach Your Dog the “Off” Cue

Step 1: Set Up for Success

To start, gather a clicker (if using one) and some high-value treats. If you don’t have a clicker, a verbal marker like “yes!” works just as well.

Wait for your dog to naturally get onto the furniture. If they’re not inclined, you can gently encourage them by patting the surface.
Say your chosen cue (“off” or “floor!”) and immediately toss a treat onto the floor with a downward motion.
When your dog jumps down to get the treat, click or say “yes!” to mark the behavior.
Repeat this several times, keeping the process fun and positive.

Step 2: Fade the Treat Lure

Once your dog is reliably responding to the treat toss:

Say “off” (or your chosen cue) and pretend to toss a treat while pointing to the floor.
When your dog jumps down, click or say “yes!” and reward them from your other hand.
Gradually, replace the hand motion with a simple verbal cue and reward only after the action is completed.

Step 3: Reduce Treat Dependency

At this stage, your dog understands the cue and follows it consistently. Now, it’s time to mix in other rewards:

Praise (“Good job!”)
Play with a favorite toy
Running to the yard for a game

Occasional treats should still be used to reinforce motivation, especially for food-driven dogs.

Troubleshooting: When Smart Dogs Outsmart You

Some dogs may start a behavior chain, where they hop onto furniture just to earn a treat when they get off! This is similar to dogs learning to jump on people and then sit for a reward in a yo-yo-like fashion.

How to Break the Chain:

When your dog jumps off, don’t immediately give a treat. Instead, ask them for an extra behavior like “sit” or “shake.”
Randomize rewards so that getting off doesn’t always result in food.
Management is key: Close the bedroom door or block access to furniture when you’re not training. Out of sight, out of mind!

What If My Dog Guards the Furniture?

If your dog growls, snaps, or refuses to get off the bed, do not force them off. Resource guarding can be a serious issue that requires professional guidance from a certified behavior consultant or a veterinary behaviorist.

Signs of resource guarding include:

Stiff posture when approached
Growling or showing teeth
Avoiding eye contact while remaining motionless

In these cases, seek help from a professional to implement a safe and structured desensitization and counterconditioning plan.

Final Thoughts

Training your dog to get off furniture is about clear communication, positive reinforcement, and setting expectations. By using a positive “off” cue, you turn what could be a battle of wills into an easy, reward-based interaction.

Remember:

Avoid force and intimidation.
Use a fresh cue if needed.
Be consistent and patient.
If your dog shows aggression, seek professional help.

With practice, your dog will learn that responding to “off” is just another fun way to interact with you—without the stress!

References

Orr, J. Understanding Cues vs. Commands. Dog Training Journal.
American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB) – Resource Guarding in Dogs.
Karen Pryor Clicker Training – The Science Behind Positive Reinforcement.