Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

Dog Word of the Day: Opposition Reflex

March 14, 2025May 11, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The opposition reflex in dogs may sound like some sort of political party, but dogs can care less about politics, at least until the day candidates start making promises of free bones or free treats! Until that day, the opposition reflex remains an interesting phenomenon that can help you become a better dog owner, and once you understand its dynamics, you may get closer to having that polite dog who walks on a loose leash you have always dreamed of. So today’s word of the day is the opposition reflex. While this may not be a scientifically accurate term, it’s worthy of discovering some more as it may provide some benefits.

A Look Back

The opposition reflex in dogs is nothing new, it has been actually studied about a century ago. We must thank Ivan Pavlov (yes, the Nobel Prize winner Russian scientist who discovered classical conditioning) for its discovery, but back in the old days, the opposition reflex was referred to as the “Freedom Reflex.”Pavlov stumbled on this phenomenon when a dog was placed in a stand and he noticed how the dog would initially stand quietly, but as time went on, the dog would start struggling to get out of this restraint by chewing on it, scratching the floor and so on. After observing this puzzling behavior for some time, he came to the conclusion that what was happening was the expression of a special “freedom reflex” that elicited the dog to react when he was constrained in the stand. He later mentions that the he was able to “inhibit this reflex” by feeding the dog in the stand.

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“For a long time we remained puzzled over the unusual behavior of this animal, until it occurred to us at last that it might be the expression of a special freedom reflex, and that the dog simply could not remain quiet when it was constrained in the stand.” I.P. Pavlov (1927, Vol. I, Ch. XXVIII)

Why Does it Happen?

There is belief that there is some biological reason behind the opposition reflex as it’s triggered by the fight, flight and freeze response. Pavlov remarked “it is clear that if the animal were not provided with a reflex of protest against the boundaries set to its freedom, the smallest obstacle in its path would interfere with the proper fulfillment of its natural functions.” His findings suggested that when an animal was suddenly trapped or restrained from normal movement, the animal would do two things: struggle to break free and then, if feasible, re-orient himself. It ultimately makes sense from a survival, adaptive purpose to fight restraint. Martin Seligman states “The drive to resist compulsion is more important in wild animals than sex, food, or water.” On top of that, the opposition reflex allows dogs to maintain physical equilibrium allowing them to better balance themselves which has also an obvious survival mechanism.

Did you know? The opposition reflex isn’t present in dogs only, it’s seen in many animals. For example, when horses are tied up, the opposition reflex can cause them to pull back which can cause even serious injuries. People who fish also mention an opposition reflex when the fish, caught on the hook, start tugging back.

When Does it Happen?

The most common reference to the opposition reflex in dog training revolves around walks. If you happen to pull your dog in one direction, you may notice how he pull in the opposite direction. Pulling back on the leash will make the dog pull more forward (forging ahead), while pulling the dog forward will make the dog pull back (balking, with feet planted on the ground). You can see the opposition reflex in action as early as a puppy gets to wear a collar and leash the very first time. A little bit of pressure on the collar and voila’ the pup will plant his feet to the ground and try to pull the opposite way even if the pressure on the neck feels uncomfortable.

Of course, there can be much more going on when dogs pull on the leash and the opposition reflex is only a part of the puzzle. Pulling on the leash is also very reinforcing, whether it’s to move forwards to go sniff a bush or meet another dog, to drag the owner home to escape from a frightening situation. Dogs also have a faster pace than humans and it therefore comes natural for them to have a head start especially when they have loads of pent-up energy!

Positive Solutions

With this in mind, how can we therefore deal with the opposition reflex? Skip the leash pops, collar corrections and aversion-based training tools like prong, choke and shock collars which only makes matters worse. Jean Donaldson in her book “The Culture Clash” suggests a simple solution: playing the red light/green light game with your dog. Basically, you move forward only when the leash is loose (green light) and you stop walking as soon as the leash becomes tense (red light). After the dog learns the rules of the game through several reps, he will come to realize that in order for the walk to continue, the leash must be loose. It’s also a good idea to train a dog using positive reinforcement to yield into slight pressure versus fighting it.

Is the opposition reflex always a bad thing? No, it can actually be put into good use! Pulling carts, sleds, weight pulling, the sports or skijoring and bikejoring can all be fun activities for dogs. Some trainers use gentle restraint (by holding a dog back by the collar or leash) to cause a bit of frustration/increased motivation that comes handy when they want the dog to sprint into action such as running an agility course.

Along with training, the choice of training tools may also come handy when it comes to defeating the opposition reflex on walks. Michael Ben Alexander, Ted Frienda, and veterinary behaviorist Lore Haug evaluated in a study several training tools and classified buckle collars and regular harnesses as subjected to the opposition reflex. Nowadays, new harnesses like the Freedom harness have been crafted to counteract the reflex, by better distributing the pressure and providing natural feedback. So instead of being stuck in the “leash pulls/dog pulls back” pattern, these harnesses shift to the “dog pulls/harness pulls back” one, explains Certified Canine Behavior Consultant Michele Godlevski in the book “Take Control, But Don’t Lose Control: Help for People With Dogs That Are Excellent Human Trainers.”

“An opposition reflex beefed up by selective breeding results in dogs like huskies and malamutes who really, really love pulling in harness.”~ Jean Donaldson

Is There an Emotional Opposition Reflex Too?

Did you know? Sheila Booth in the book “Purely Positive Training: Companion to Competition” adds an interesting twist to the opposition reflex. She mentions an emotional side of it where the more we try to make a dog stop doing something, the more the dog gets determined in doing it. Doesn’t this ring a bell?

This is something we also see in human toddlers, further points out Sheila Booth. Don’t toddlers after all, always seem to be after the “forbidden fruits” they have been told to stay away from? Moral of the story? It’s far easier training to manage a dog’s environment to prevent rehearsal of unwanted behaviors and get into the great habit of teaching a dog what to do instead of what not to. This leads to less frustration and happier relationships between dogs and dog owners, a win-win!

References:

Purely Positive Training: Companion to Competition, By Sheila Booth, Podium Publications (January 1, 1998)
Culture Clash: A New Way Of Understanding The Relationship Between Humans And Domestic Dogs, by Jean Donaldson, James & Kenneth Publishers (January 19, 1996)
Conditioned Reflexes, By I. P. Pavlov, April 30, 2012, Courier Corporation
The Motivated Brain: A Neurophysiological Analysis of Human Behavior, By Pavel Vasilʹevich Simonov
Obedience training effects on search dog performance Michael Ben Alexander, Ted Frienda, Lore Haug, Applied Animal Behaviour Science
Michele Godlevski, “Take Control, But Don’t Lose Control: Help for People With Dogs That Are Excellent Human Trainers”
James O’ Heare, Separation Distress and Dogs, Dogwise Publishing (December 1, 2009)
Pavlov’s Trout: The Incompleat Psychology of Everyday Fishing, By Quinnett, Paul, Keokee Co. Publishing (July 10, 2012)

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The Mystery Behind Leg Kicking When Scratched

March 14, 2025May 10, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

It’s one of those curious behaviors dogs do: you give them a nice belly rub and they start kicking or shaking their rear leg, what gives? Many dog owners have been wondering what is going on when their dogs start moving their leg upon being scratched. While the possible reason why this happens has been extensively studied for many years, despite decades of research, certain key aspects of this leg-kicking behavior still remain unknown. Today we’re discovering what’s likely behind this mysterious behavior, but before we do that, here’s our trivia question of the day!

Why do dogs start kicking their legs when you pet them?

A: It’s a way for the dog to push you away so to make you stop

B: It’s an involuntary reflex that activates when you pet certain areas

C: It’s a way for the dog to exercise his rear leg muscles

D: It’s a voluntarily action. The dog is trying to take over the task of scratching.

The correct answer is: drum roll please……..

The correct answer is: B, it’s a reflex that is activated when you pet certain areas.

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The Dog’s Scratch Reflex

So why do dogs pump their legs when you rub their tummies? Turns out it is a reflex, basically an involuntary mechanism that occurs as a response to a stimulus, and thus, happens without conscious thought. In layman terms, your dog can’t control it, he just gotta do it. One of the first people to be intrigued by this reflex was a certain Sir Charles Sherrington, an English neurophysiologist who decided to study this reflex more closely. Sherrington was very interested in anything that involved reflexes and neurological activity and his many studies helped us attain a better understanding of the central nervous system. Thank you, Sir Sherrington!

Location, Location, Location

One main questions to ask, if why does this reflex activate only when the dog is scratched over a certain area? Those back legs after all do not seem to give any signs of moving or kicking when the dog is scratched on the top of the head or in the chest area!

All the surface of the dog’s skin is covered by many sensory neurons that are activated by stimulation, but there is a specific area in particular that seems to activate the scratch reflex. According to J. E. R. Staddon, author of the book “Adaptive Behavior and Learning,“this specific saddle-shaped area is called the”receptive field of the reflex” and touching a spot within this area may therefore elicit the dog’s involuntary scratch reflex.

Why Just There?

Why is only this area triggering this behavior compared to other areas of the body? Here’s one possible explanation. The scratch reflex may have an adaptive purpose of ridding the animal from fleas or other dangerous parasites in an area (the flanks) that isn’t highly mobile as say, the tail or the dog’s front or hind legs. The scratch reflex therefore may allow the dog to quickly attempt to remove the stimulus by using his rear leg.

Anther theory comes from the book “Why Do Dogs Drink Out of the Toilet?” by Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori. According to the book, the upper part of the dog’s flanks or on the belly are areas where fleas tend to congregate, so those leg kicks are likely an effective means for pest control. Mother Nature’s version of an automatic fly swatter.

A Matter of Timing

As seen, the scratch reflex is one of those fascinating things dogs do that are quite interesting to discover! Why though would it be a reflex and not a conscious, voluntary movement? Dr. Lore Haug, a board-certified veterinary behaviorists thinks it’s a matter of urgency. In an article for Popular Science, she compares it to our reflex of withdrawing our hand from a hot stove.

” Let’s say you touch a hot stove, and before your brain recognizes it’s painful, the spinal cord recognizes the pain, and you involuntarily jerk your hand back. If you had to wait until your conscious brain recognized something was in danger, your delay in reaction time could cause an injury or even death in some cases.” ~Dr. Lore Haug

Some Interesting Findings

Sherrington’s studies, have revealed some quite interesting findings about the scratch reflex. Following are some interesting phenomena he has observed in his studies.

The Latency Period. When you touch a spot in the dog’s receptive field of reflex, you may notice how the leg kicking action may not start immediately. Why is that? Even though the reflex might be faster than voluntary movement, there’s still a small delay. According to Sherrington’s studies, this slight delay tends to happen because it may take a teeny bit of time for the nervous signal to travel from the superficial skin receptors all the way to the muscles of the dog’s leg responsible for start the leg-kicking action. Sherrington decided to call this brief delay “latency.”
The Warm Up. Sherrington also noticed how the scratch reflex in dogs involves also a warm-up period. He mentions that when the leg kicking action begins, it doesn’t reach a maximum level of intensity right away, but rather, it builds up in intensity gradually. The first leg kicks therefore consist of slight sweeping motions compared to the broader ones occurring a bit later.
The After Discharge. Just as there is a latency period, a brief delay before the kicking-leg action takes place, there is an after discharge moment, where the leg licking still occurs despite you stop scratching your dog. Basically, upon removing your hand, you may noticed that your dog keeps moving a leg for a little bit.
Fatigue. Reflexes may be prone to a phenomenon known as fatigue. If a stimulus applied by the dog’s flank is not removed, after a few leg-kicking movements, the behavior slowly dies off until the dog stops moving the leg. This is sign that something in the system is clearly fatigued and that it can take a bit of recovery time to elicit the leg moving action again. This can occur because the leg muscles involved in leg -kicking action are simply exhausted or the sense organs are tired out and they no longer detect the stimulus, suggests Peter J.B. Slater in the book “Essentials of Animal Behaviour.“

Intrigued by all this? Watch the Scratch Reflex in Action! Did you notice the warm-up period?

References:

Essentials of Animal Behaviour, By Peter J. B. Slater, Cambridge University Press; 1 edition (May 28, 1999)
Why Do Dogs Drink Out of the Toilet? By Marty Becker, D.V.M., Gina Spadafori, HCI (September 15, 2006)
Adaptive Behavior and Learning Hardcover – November 25, 1983 by J. E. R. Staddon, Cambridge University Press (November 25, 1983)
The Integrative Action of the Nervous System, By Sir Charles Scott Sherrington, Andesite Press (August 8, 2015)
Popular Science, Why Does My Dog Scratch When I Scratch his Belly, by Loren Grush, retrieved from the web on May 10th, 2016

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Dog Nose Touching May Go Beyond Saying Hello

March 14, 2025May 8, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Many cat owners are familiar with cats touching noses when they meet and greet, but when dogs touch noses the behavior often leaves owners wondering why dogs engage in this type of meeting ritual. Perhaps it’s just because not all dogs meet this way and because we’re more used to seeing dogs greet by sniffing each others’ tails or groin areas rather than engaging in direct snout-to-snout contact. We thought that today it would be interesting discovering more about nose touching behaviors among dogs and their possible meaning.

Nose Touches in Cats

We know that cats are the nose-touching creatures par excellence (ever been woken up by the cold nose of cat greeting you and tickling your face with his whiskers?) but why has this greeting ritual become almost the norm? How did this behavior evolve?

It seems like this behavior starts early in the litter when kittens are small teeny-tiny fur bulls. At this stage, the kitten’s eyes haven’t opened as of yet, but their noses have fully functional touch receptors.

Nose touching is therefore the kittens’ way for making contact with their mom and “touching basis” with her. As the kittens grow, this behavior persists and cats use this friendly greeting ritual throughout their lives whether they’re meeting a new non-threatening cat for the very first time or they’re catching up with a buddy after their lengthy cat naps.

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Nose Touches in Dogs

As many of us have witnessed, dogs touch noses with other dogs too, only the behavior might not be as widespread as in cats.

While puppies are also born blind and their sense of touch is one of their earliest developed senses, the nose-touching behavior doesn’t seem to stick around much as in cats, why is that?

Yet, during their time in the litter, mother dogs and pups are often seen nose-touching. Stanley Coren, upon observing the interactions between a mother dog and her pups claims that “the opening contact was almost always a nose-to-nose touch.”

So why does nose-touching not stick around much in dogs, whereas, in cats it’s almost the norm?

Are we forcing dogs to meet in ways they're not comfortable with? — Are we forcing dogs to meet in ways they’re not comfortable with?

A Possible Explanation

Here’s just a thought we have. Perhaps it’s because dogs are often taken out on walks so they are more likely to encounter unfamiliar dogs, while cats are more likely to stick around nearby their colony and feeding areas and therefore are more likely to encounter cats they are more familiar with? Perhaps in dogs a butt sniff is preferred because a nose touch puts the dog in a too vulnerable position as it causes direct eye contact?

Something else worth pondering is whether dogs choose to nose touch on their own, or if they are forced to interact this way because that’s how dog owners often let dogs meet when on leash. We may never really know the right answers to these questions and they are certainly worthy of some research. However, the good news is that there is an actual study we can take a peak at that may reveal some interesting findings as to why dogs may engage in nose touching greetings.

puppy mother — Nose touches are reminiscent of early puppyhood.

What the Study Says

The study, published in the Journal of Animal Behavior, was conducted by Marianne Heberlein and Dennis Turner at the Institute of Zoology at the University of Zurich.

In the study, treats are hidden around a room. Afterward, special screens are placed in front of some areas where the treats are hidden. One dog is sent to search for treats, while another dog watches. The observing dog doesn’t know what happens exactly when the dog goes behind the screens.

To add a special twist to the study, sometimes the experimenters purposely removed the treats meaning that the dog got to eat the treats at some times but not in others.

Next, the dogs are allowed to interact with each other. Upon greeting each other, the dogs engage in some nose touches. This is where it gets interesting. If the dog had found some treats, when the observing dog was afterward sent to the room, he was likely to quickly go investigate the areas behind the screen. If the dog found no treats, when the observing dog was sent to the room he was less likely to investigate these areas.

What does this study suggest? It suggests that those nose touches aren’t just a mere way of saying hello, there’s more to it. Turns out those nose touches are an important communication tool for the purpose of exchanging information. Rather than a formal “hello,” in this case it’s as if the dog was saying something along the terms of ” Hey, have you encountered any goodies around here?” suggests Stanley Coren. Of course, with a dog’s stunning sense of smell, the answer relies within the breath.

Something similar may be going on when dogs are briefly separated for training sessions and then they are reunited. The separated dog may rush to nose touch the dog who underwent training to get any clues about treats being involved. Intrigued by this study, today we tried a brief experiment, we separated our Rottweilers and did a brief training session with our female Rottie using smelly treats (picture 1). Once done, our male Rottweiler was released and first thing first he quickly rushed to sniff our female near the face and then sniffed her anal area. Then off he went to look if there were any leftover crumbs on the floor! This is sure an interesting experiment dog owners with multiple dogs can give a try!

Food for thought? It has been speculated that dogs who roll in stinky dead things or poop do so to advertise their findings to their social group. It might be a way for dogs to brag about their findings along the terms of “Look what I found!” or perhaps just a way to share information about food sources with other dogs. If that’s the case, maybe that’s why familiar dogs don’t seem to mind having the other dog nose touch and investigate them?

More for Friendly Encounters?

At some point, we may wonder if nose touches are more likely to be geared towards friendly encounters, where there are reduced risks for conflicts. Stanley Coren in his book “Do Dogs Dream?: Nearly Everything Your Dog Wants You to Know” claims that cats nose touch with any cat they meet that appears nonthreatening.

So is nonthreatening the important keyword here, when it comes to nose touches among dogs?

Nose touching with an unfamiliar dog can after all be risky business as it’s preceded by walking up straightly to a dog and making direct eye contact. Turid Rugaas in her book “On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals” reminds us that dogs do not like to approach “head on” and would rather prefer to curving.

Stanley Coren further points out that dogs tend to use nose touches when greeting another nonthreatening species such as cats and kittens or when mother dog greets her puppies. He also mentions seeing it when adult dogs are greeting puppies or when meeting a “young human crawling across the floor.”

So are nose touches mostly reserved among dogs familiar with each other or animals that appear non- threatening? Do dogs take any precautionary steps to ensure that the nose touches are not perceived negatively by the receiver such as walking slowly or slightly squinting the eyes? These are sure some fascinating topics that hopefully will be further discovered one day!

References:

Do Dogs Dream?: Nearly Everything Your Dog Wants You to Know, By Stanley Coren, W. W. Norton & Company; Reprint edition (July 16, 2012)
Why Dogs Touch Noses: Communication and More, by Stanley Coren, retrieved from the web on May 8th, 2016.
Dogs, Canis familiaris, find hidden food by observing and interacting with a conspecific Marianne Heberlein*, Dennis C. Turner Animal Behavior, Institute of Zoology, University of Zurich.
Turid Rugaas, “On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals” Dogwise Publishing; 2nd edition (December 14, 2005)

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Bryan Alexander, Cats’ noses, Claw and Henra consider touching noses (CC BY 2.0)
Flickr Creative Commons, Thomas Edwards, The meeting, (CC BY 2.0)

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Surprise: Mother Dog Can Remember Her Pups!

March 14, 2025May 7, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The Disney cartoon The 101 Dalmatians and its subsequent movie seem to suggest that mother dogs remember their puppies and will do what it takes to be reunited with them, but is this only a Disneyland fantasy, or is there any truth to it? Can mother dogs recognize and remember their puppies even after they have been separated for some time? One may think they may not, as we are often reminded that dogs live in the moment, but fortunately, there are a few studies to give us an insight about long-term memory in dogs which takes us closer to the answer.

A Strong Bond

When puppies are born, mother and puppies strongly bond to each other courtesy of powerful hormones. Puppies, being born in a helpless state, totally depend on their mother during their first few weeks of life. Being separated at this time, causes great emotional distress in the young puppies causing sustained vocalizations and attempts to being reunited with the mother and siblings.

Most likely these responses are triggered by an evolutionary adaptation considering the many dangers associated with a vulnerable puppy being left alone, explains Steven Lindsay in the book “Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 2: Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems.” The distress vocalizations emitted by the pups along with mother dog’s behavior in attempting to reunite with them therefore increases the chances for survival. It’s therefore expected that some level of lasting mutual attachment and attraction must develop between the vulnerable pups and their mothers, adds Lindsay.

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Proof of Remembering

After the their first weeks of life, pups start becoming gradually more and more independent. The puppies can soon eliminate on their own, start exploring their surroundings and start looking for alternate sources of food other than mother’s milk. Soon, the pups stay more and more away from their mothers and this is a good time for them to go to their new homes, but does this mean they will be completely forgotten? Peter G. Hepper may have the answer we are looking for. His study conducted back in 1994 revealed that at 4 to 5.5 weeks of age, puppies were able to recognize their mother and mothers could recognize their siblings and that olfactory cues were sufficient for this recognition to take place.

With this information in mind, the study went on to separate mom and pups and reunite them years later. Once the pups reached 2 years of age, (after being separated from their mother at 8 to 12 weeks) the pups and mom were therefore reunited and their behaviors were observed. Mother dogs showed signs of recognizing their now adult puppies and the adult puppies showed signs of recognizing mom. This shows that dogs are therefore capable of recognizing their kin even after 2 years of continuous separation!

Watch This Heartwarming Video of Mother Dog Being Reunited with Her Pups!

But Wait, There’s More!

While Hepper’s study was quite intriguing, William Carr and his colleagues at Beaver College decided to expand on Hepper’s study and this time they focused on seeing how siblings reacted after even longer separations from their mothers. In this study, mother dogs and their offspring were separated for several years and the puppies were observed to see how they reacted to their mother’s scent. The study revealed that the pups spent more time reacting to their mother’s scent than to the scent of another unfamiliar, like-breed dog, suggesting that dogs are capable of scent-mediated kin recognition even after many years of separation.

If you feel put aside as a human care giver (after all, aren’t we like our dog’s surrogate moms and dads? Research seems to suggest that) don’t feel bad: consider that the same study also found that the pups spent more time sniffing the scent of their initial caregiver than to that of a like-sex stranger after many months of separation. There is possibly even the chance that the dog could remember the caregiver’s scent even as long as 10 year after separation (Appel, 1999). These findings therefore seem to suggest that dogs seem capable of retaining olfactory memory and social recognition for their lifetimes. The familiar scent may perhaps not always be very missed, but for sure it’s not forgotten!
Soldier and Dog Reunion

Did you know? Charles Darwin owned a dog who was known for not being fond of strangers. After being away for 5 years, Darwin was impressed as to how upon being reunited he didn’t growl at him much when he called him. According to Darwin this was proof of a dog’s complex cognitive abilities.

References:

Long-term retention of kinship recognition established during infancy in the domestic dog, Peter G. Hepper Behavioural Processes, Volume 33, Issues 1–2, December 1994, Pages 3-14
Mekosh-Rosenbaum, V., Carr, W.J., Goodwin, J.L., Thomas, P.L., D’Ver, A., and Wysocki, C.J. (1994). Agedependent responses to chemosensory cues mediating kin recognition in dogs (Canis familiaris). Physiol. Behav. 55, 495–499
Appel J, Arms N, Horner R, and Carr WJ (1999). Long-term olfactory memory in companion dogs
Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 2: Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems, by Steven Lindsay, Iowa State University Press; 1st edition (2001)
Darwin’s Dogs: How Darwin’s Pets Helped Form a World-Changing Theory of Evolution, by Emma Townshend, Frances Lincoln (October 27, 2009)
New Scientist, Fido stays faithful to the end, retrieved from the web on May 7th, 2016

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Five Fascinating Facts About Dog Hair Whorls

March 14, 2025May 6, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

For those who do not know what in the world dog hair whorls are, here’s a brief explanation. Dog hair whorls are simply small patches of hair that grow in a spiral, circular manner. If you think your dog doesn’t have any hair whorls, think again. He likely has some somewhere on his body, but likely you just have never paid any attention to them.. at least until today. Also known as swirls, crowns or cowlicks, dog hair whorls are found in certain areas covered with hair on your dog’s body. Today, we will be discovering some fascinating facts about hair whorls in dogs, where you are likely to find them and what special meanings they may have according to some interesting studies.

1) Dog Hair Whorls Can Grow in Two Directions

What makes hair whorls stick out? Hair whorls are easily seen and felt because the hair is growing in the opposite direction compared to the rest of the hair. The direction of the hair can be clockwise or counterclockwise. Interestingly, the whorls on the left side of the dog’s body are usually counterclockwise while those on the right side are clockwise.

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2) They Come in Two Types

There are hair whorls and hair whorls. According to a study conducted by L.M. Tomkins and P.D. Mcgreevy, dog hair whorls can be either simple or tufted. Simple hair whorls have hairs that stem from a central, focal point and diverge into a flat swirling patter. Tufted hair whorls, on the other hand, have hairs that are converging from various directions to a central point, and, as the name implies, these hair whorls form a tuft, a collection of hair growing together at the base. The study found that among dogs tufted whorls were less common than simple whorls. The whorls on the dog’s elbows are examples of tufted whorles.

3) They Tend to Grow in Certain Areas

So now that we know what dog hair whorls look like, let’s go on a treasure hunt and find where they are more likely to grow! According to the study, whorls were found in ten different places, but the majority of dogs were found to have hair whorls in the chest, front legs (brachial axillae), elbows, and rump area. So let’s go a bit more in detail where they may be exactly found.

Chest whorls are commonly found in the middle of the dog’s chest. Two brachial axillae (one one each leg) are found in the upper front legs. Two elbow whorls (one on each elbow) are found in the back of the dog’s front legs, just nearby the bony prominence of the elbow. Two ischiatic whorls are found in the rear area, nearby the rectum. Some dogs also have whorls on the lateral areas of their face, sides of the neck and the abdominal area but these are considered atypical.

4) The Rhodesian Ridgeback Has Special Ones

Rhodesian ridgebacks are known for having a ridge of hair growing in the opposite direction on their backs. Along with the ridge, this breed has two hair whorls. According to the American Kennel Club standard for this breed, the ridge should have two identical crowns (whorls) opposite of each other. The whorls must not extend further down the ridge than one third of the ridge. The presence of ridge and crowns is so important in this breed that a lack of ridge is means for disqualification in the show ring and having only one crown or having more than two is considered a serious fault!

5) They Might Tell Something About Your Dog’s Personality

Interestingly, the placement and directions of dog hair whorls can be linked to right paw or left paw preference and can give some insights on the dog’s personality. Some pioneering work done on cattle found that the placement and direction of the hair whorl had a great effect on how anxious or bold the cattle were. No-one knows why, but there’s belief that it must be somehow related to skin and brain development in the embryo. Back to dogs, research done by Tomkins et al., 2012 found that, statistically, right-pawed dogs that had a counterclockwise whorl on their chest had twice the chance of succeeding in guide dog school when compared to left pawed dogs equipped with a clockwise whorl on their chest. Now that you know what in the world dog hair whorls are, you can see that whorls can mean a whole lot!

References:

Tomkins, L.M. and Mcgreevy, P.D. (2010), Hair Whorls in the Dog (Canis familiaris). I. Distribution. Anat Rec, 293: 338–350. doi: 10.1002/ar.21055
Tomkins, L. M. and McGreevy, P. D. (2010), Hair Whorls in the Dog (Canis familiaris), Part II: Asymmetries. Anat Rec, 293: 513–518. doi: 10.1002/ar.21077
Grandin T., Deesing M. J., Struthers J. J., Swinker A. M.: 1995. Cattle with hair whorl patterns above the eyes are more behaviorally agitated during restraint. Applied Animal Behaviour Science 46, 117–123
Tomkins L. M., Thomson P. C., McGreevy P. D.: 2012. Associations between motor, sensory and structural lateralisation and guide dog success. The Veterinary Journal 192, 359–367.
ABC Catalyst, Left Paw, Right Paw, retrieved from the web on May 6th, 2016
Correlation Between Hair Whorls and Different Types of Behaviors in Dogs, Lillebo Sophie, retrieved from the web on May 6th, 2016

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Puppy Acting Skittish? It Might be a Fear Period

March 14, 2025May 5, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Puppies and young adolescent dogs can sometimes start acting skittish around certain stimuli and dog owners may be wondering why their beloved dogs are undergoing such behavior changes when they seemed fine just a few days or weeks prior. What is going on? There are chances that their puppy or adolescent dogs may be going through what is known as a fear period. During this time, puppies and young dogs may show skittish behaviors towards familiar stimuli and act as if they’re seeing them for the first time, or they may manifest a reluctance to approach new things (neophobia, fear of new things). As the name implies, this time shall pass, but dog owners can up their chances for a positive resolution by helping their dogs sail through these delicate developmental phases.

First Fear Period (8-11 weeks)

While puppies are curious and eager to explore their surroundings during their first 3 to 5 weeks, in the next following weeks they become gradually more and more skittish of their surroundings and have a harder time adapting to new situations or things.

According to Canine Companion for Independence the first fear imprint period generally takes place in puppies between 8 and 11 weeks of age.

During this time, it’s important to take care that puppies aren’t exposed to overwhelming (no crazy costume parties!) or traumatic experiences which can have quite a negative impact for a lifetime.

This first fear period coincides with when the puppies become more mobile and in the wild would start exploring life outside their dens. A lack of caution at this age could easily get the vulnerable puppies killed, explains Patricia McConnell in the book “For the Love of the Dog.”

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“Puppies demonstrate an investigation-attraction behavior towards the unfamiliar as soon as they are able to express this attraction (almost adult motor capacity), in other words at 3½ weeks. This attraction subsides in an almost linear manner after the fifth week until at least 9 weeks.”~Dr. Joël Dehasse

Second Fear Period

A second fear period may also take place later on when the puppy has turned into an adolescent. This fear period lasts generally a bit longer, it tends to take place generally between 8 and 14 months and can occur more than once. There’s belief these fearful periods coincide with growth spurts.

Dog owners may find the second fear period more worrisome as the cautious behaviors sometimes mature into fear-related aggression.

Patricia McConnell, this time in the book “The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs” refers to this stage as “juvenile-onset shyness.” She says: “These are puppies that are relatively confident until they hit some developmental stepping stone and become cautious as teenagers.” It’s good practice to keep polishing a dog socialization skills for at least the first year of life.

“Because in some dogs this cautiousness can lead to fear-related aggression, all dogs should be kept well socialized during (at least) the first year of life”~ Patricia McConnell

Is it Really a Fear Period Though?

Something important for dog owners to evaluate is whether the dog is really undergoing a fear period or if there’s perhaps something else going on.

If the puppy reacts fearfully when a person suddenly opens an umbrella in his face, that fear is quite normal as it’s a startling event that catches him unprepared, but if your puppy has always been fine walking by a trash can and now out of the blue he’acting skittish around it, there are chances you may dealing with this developmental phase.

Fear periods may vary from one dog and another as fear can have a genetic and environmental component, the age of onset may vary based on breed and there is still not much research involved on this particular topic.

The most we know about fear periods today seems to be based on anecdotal evidence. Fear is a complex emotion and puppies are known for being capable of feeling the effects of a mother’s dogs stress as early as being in the womb. While there is belief that that there are at least two fear periods (some suggest there are more), there are chances that dogs go through more of these sensitized phases during their first couple of years of life and perhaps in a random pattern throughout their growth rather than at exact fixed times.

As mentioned, a fear period should be just a period where dogs temporarily act leery towards familiar stimuli or novel ones. Problems start though when the fear starts becoming chronic. In a puppy or young dog, the fear period should not be protracted for too long.

When the pup encounters a novel stimuli, he may tentatively approach the object at first in an approach/avoidance fashion, but soon, he should show signs of recovering. After a few encounters and investigations, the pup should be able to cognitively process the novelty and finally “categorize” it as non-harmful accepting it in future encounters. An inability to spring back into a state of normalcy after repeated encounters may be a sign of some neurological deficit or genetic predisposition more than a transitional fear period.

Avoid These Big Mistakes!

How you handle the fear period (or any other form of fear) can make a difference in the outcome. There are things you may do that will only frighten your dog more and there are things that can help him.

Let’s start with what not to do. Absolutely avoid scolding your puppy or adolescent dog as this only will increase the fear and prevent an outlet for the stress.

While scolding your dog or using any other form of punishment may seem to temporarily suppress the growling or lunging behavior, one must remember that these behaviors are outward manifestations of an internal turmoil.

Suppressing them is like placing a lid and not allowing the steam to escape. Sooner or later, an “explosion” may occur causing the dog to eventually lose it and snap. Purposely exposing the dog to overwhelming situations so “he gets over it” is likely to create severe and long lasting problems which can be difficult to overcome.

Capture — Use food to create powerful associations!

Changing Perceptions

So how can a puppy or adolescent dog be helped during a fear period? One big help is pairing the stimulus the dog is frightened of with something the dog really likes.

So if say you are scared of spiders, how would you feel if every time you saw one, a hundred dollar bill fell from the sky? Most likely you would want to encounter more and more spiders!

This behavior modification technique is known as counterconditioning and it is often accompanied by systematic desensitization, which means you are gradually exposed to the source of your fears.

So instead of being immersed in a bath tub full of tarantulas, you are initially shown one from a distance so you do not feel overwhelmed.

So how would we apply this to our dogs? If your puppy or dog is suddenly scared of the trash can, find a distance from where Mr. Trash Can doesn’t cause too much fear. Too much fear inhibits learning, so you want to minimize the fear reaction as much as you can. This often entails walking at a certain distance where your dog acknowledges Mr. Trash Can but doesn’t feel too threatened.

As soon as your dog orients his attention towards it, feed some doggy currency in the form of high-value treats. Give these treats exclusively for these sessions. Don’t fall in the temptation to get too close to the trash can though, as your dog may not be ready for that level of interaction as of yet. Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to conquering fears.

Allow your dog to investigate whatever he fears on his own pace and remember to praise/reward any initiative your puppy or dog takes! While the window of opportunity for the puppy socialization phase is believed to close at around 14 to 16 weeks, socialization and training opportunities should virtually never end. One should never underestimate the neuroplasticity of a dog’s brain as learning is a lifelong experience!

References:

UC Davis, Canine Companions for Independence, Critical periods in puppy development, retrieved from the web on May 5th, 2016
Sensory, Emotional and Social Development of the Young Dog By Dr. Joël Dehasse, retrieved from the web on May 5th, 2016
For the Love of a Dog: Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best Friend, By Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. Ballantine Books; 1 Reprint edition (July 22, 2009)
The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs, By Patricia McConnell, Ph.D, Ballantine Books (February 19, 2009)

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Dog Word of the Day: Teacup Puppies

March 14, 2025May 4, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

At some point or another, dog lovers may stumble on the word “teacup puppies.” Most likely, there was some flashy ad on the Sunday newspaper advertising “teacup puppies” for sale, or there may have been a first-person encounter with one. As cute and innocent as the word teacup puppy may seem, there’s really a lot to become aware of before falling into the temptation of getting one. The saying “knowledge is power” can help make a difference between getting a healthy puppy or a sickly one that can bring on many heartaches and considerably lighten the wallet.

What are Teacup Puppies?

As the name implies, teacup puppies are very small dogs which are meant to fit inside a teacup or coffee cup.

Also known as micro dogs or pocket-sized dogs, these small dogs often weigh considerably less than the standard weight set forth by the American Kennel Club or other breed club.

For example, generally, teacup Yorkies will be weighing less than 4 lbs when fully grown, when the breed standard for this breed is 7 lbs maximum.

The term “teacup” is not considered an official term nor is it endorsed by any major breed registries. Teacup puppies may belong to different breeds.

Wondering about teacup dog breeds? Common teacup dog breeds include teacup Yorkies, teacup Chihuahuas, teacup Maltese, teacup Pomeranians, teacup pugs, teacup poodles, teacup silky terriers and teacup shih-tzus.

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How are They Created?

When breeders selectively breed small dogs, they may occasionally stumble on runts of the litter.

While a reputable breeder will sell these smaller than average pups with spay and neuter contracts so that these dogs produced by accident cannot reproduce, an unethical breeder instead may intentionally breed two undersized dogs to produce litters of smaller than average puppies.

These puppies are then called “teacup puppies” and breeders ask a premium price for them marketing them as valuable. How much does a teacup puppy cost on average? A teacup puppy may easily cost anywhere between is $750 to even $2,000.

Did you know? The American Shih Tzu Club clearly states that an ethical breeder will not advertise a runt as a tiny teacup but would sell it as a pet quality puppy meant to be exclusively kept as a companion.

Problems With Teacup Puppies

Being below the breed standard’s size, comes with several potential problems. There are several reasons therefore why teacup dog breeds aren’t everyone’s “cup of tea.”

Producing smaller versions of dogs that are already small to start with, risks magnifying the chances for health problems raising their ugly heads.

What health problems are likely to happen? Hypoglycemia (rapid drop of blood glucose in the blood), larger moleras, hydrocephalus, liver shunts, heart problems, lowered immune function, seizures, teeth problems and fragility due to small bones are just a few.

Due to their fragility, teacup puppies are also not a good match for families with small children as they may inadvertently injure these petite dogs in play. Teacup puppies also often require more frequent feedings due to their fast metabolisms and risks for low blood glucose.

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule, and there may be healthy teacup puppy specimens, but buyers should be aware about the extra care these dogs may require when it comes to their general health and well-being. To make things more insidious, many health issues mentioned above may not be immediately apparent to new puppy owners but may only pop up later on.

“Micro dogs weighing three pounds or less at adulthood are more prone to serious health problems and generally live shorter lives.” ~Dr. Marty Becker

Why are They so Popular?

The market of selling puppies is often shaped by current trends and fads. The teacup puppy fad has been alive and well for some time and breeders take advantage of this so to place a high price tag on teacup dogs.

The term “teacup” is therefore a buzzword meant to attract buyers, a strategic marketing ploy. While teacup puppies aren’t endorsed by any reputable breed registries, celebrities are often to blame for the popularity of these small dogs.

Carrying a pooch in a pink handbag may be cute and trendy, but dogs are not fashion accessories and shouldn’t be treated that way. Many pups that are purchased by impressionable people who are prone to copy their favorite celebrities sadly end up later on in shelters because, when purchased on a whim, people fail to realize the amount of care and money involved in meeting the needs of these small dogs.

“The terms “imperial” or “tiny teacup” should be regarded as what they really are…. A MYTH often used by unethical breeders to create a market for dogs that do not conform to the breed standard.” ~American Shih Tzu Club

How to Get One

Where to buy a teacup dog breed or a teacup puppy? For prospective dog owners who want a teacup puppy, their best bet is to avoid breeders who purposely breed them and ask a hefty price for them.

Pet stores should also be avoided as they are mostly supplied by puppy mills. A better option is purchasing a toy dog that is of normal weight and size for the standard or asking around as reputable breeders sometimes unintentionally end up with smaller-than-average puppies.

A reputable breeder breeds for sound health, good behavior and longevity and will provide buyers a contract with a health guarantee. Other places to look at are rescues or shelters who often have an abundance of small dogs in desperate need of caring and loving homes.

Did you know? It’ against the Yorkshire Terrier Club’s code of ethics for breeders to use terms such as “teacup”, “tiny specialists”, “doll faced”, or similar terminology to advertise their puppies and the Chihuahua Club of America does not endorse nor condone the use of terms such as “teacup, Pocket Size, Tiny Toy,or Miniature and cautions perspective puppy buyers to not be misled by them.

References:

Vet Street, by Dr. Marty Becker, 5 Toy Breeds That Worry This Vet the Most, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016
American Shih Tzu Club, Imperial Shih Tzu, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016
The Yorkshire Terrier Club of America, Code of Ethics, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016
Chihuahua Club of America, Teacup Statement, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016

Photo Credits:

A Teacup Yorkie, by Swatjester, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

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Where is a Dog’s Thickest Skin Located?

March 14, 2025May 3, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

A dog’s skin is thinner and much more sensitive than ours, states the Merck Veterinary Manual. Some of us may find this surprising, but turns out, our skin is three times thicker than our dogs’ and our pH is different too, which is why we shouldn’t use human shampoo for our dogs, explains Karen L. Campbell, a veterinarian specializing in dermatology in the book “The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases.” On the other hand though, dogs have a coat, so there seems to be a convenient trade-off: generally, the more hair, the thinner the outer layer of skin. While our dogs may have thinner skin compared to us, there’s an area of the dog’s body where the skin is much tougher compared to the dog’s other areas, so our trivia question for the day is the following:

Can you name where a dog’s toughest skin is located?

A The nose

B The neck

C The paw pads

D The abdomen

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The correct answer is…..

The correct answer is C, the paw pads

Ever wondered how dogs are able to walk in the snow, hot pavement or over the hard surfaces such as asphalt without having to wear shoes? This is all courtesy of those tough paw pads. Sure, if we were to walk barefoot for most of our lives, the skin on the bottom of our feet would surely toughen, but until the day we decide to ditch our shoes, we will be prone to have softer feet with more delicate soles. Other than protecting a dog’s feet from abrasive surfaces and hot and cold temperatures, a dog’s paw pads act as shock absorbers for all the bones, tendons and ligaments found on the dog’s legs

A Lesson in Anatomy

Close-up of paw, notice the smoother center and more prominent papillae on the edge of the toes. — Notice the smoother center and more prominent papillae on the edges.

What does a dog’s paw pad anatomy look like? The skin on a dog’s paw pads is extra thick and not found in any other area of the dog’s body. It’s made of layers of insulating fat and connective tissue making them the perfect version of Mother Nature’s insoles.

The outermost layer is the one we’re most familiar with, it’s called the stratum corneum and it’s the hairless pigmented layer we see when we look at our dog’s paws.

If you ever looked at your dog’s paw pads very closely, you might have noticed how the outermost layer is made of small conical papillae. These papillae are made to add further protection.

You may have also noticed how the central surface of your dog’s pads may be smooth compared to the outer edges. This is from long-term walking on rough surfaces such as concrete. The smoothness is due to the conical papillae being flattened rather than conical due to abrasion, while the papillae on the edge remain conical.

Dogs who tend to walk more on hard surfaces and are older tend to generally have tougher paw pads than dogs used to walking in grass and carpet and who are younger.

Did you know? A dog’s foot pads contain many blood vessels which is why they tend to bleed easily when injured.

Strong But Not Invincible

While a dog’s paw pads are pretty tough and able to withstand the many miles dogs put on their feet, consider though that this doesn’t mean you can walk your dog over hot asphalt or over ice melt without having any problems.

A dog’s paw pads can be prone to cracks, abrasions, ulcers and blisters when exposed to heat and cold, harsh surfaces and chemicals.

Most commonly, the dog’s outer layer of skin, the stratum coneum sloughs off, exposing a raw layer of skin that is very sensitive and can take even weeks to properly heal.

In nature, injuries to a canine’s feet can have deleterious effects and may strongly incapacitate these cursorial animals who need to run to hunt for prey and run away from predators. Luckily, in a domesticated setting, we can take care of our dogs providing them food and resting their feet which gives time for their paw pads to heal.

Paw pads are prone to heal slowly because they’re more exposed to contaminated surfaces, dogs need to walk on them and dogs are prone to further aggravate the area through persistent licking and chewing. Fortunately, we can do a whole lot in preventing injuries from occurring in the first place such as inspecting a dog’s paw pads on a routine basis after exercising on rough surfaces and avoiding temperature extremes or exposure to chemicals and irritants. Also, keeping a dog lean will help put less pressure on the toes and joints so the dog is “lighter on his feet.”

Did you know? Because the tissues on a dog’s paw pads is highly specialized and has precise functions, it’s irreplaceable, and therefore cannot be replaced from other skin from the body, explains Dr. Tannaz Amalsadvala, a graduate of the Bombay Veterinary College in Bombay, India.

References:

Laboratory Manual for Comparative Veterinary Anatomy & Physiology, By Phillip E. Cochran, M.S., D.V.M, Delmar Cengage Learning; 2 edition (April 12, 2010)
Laboratory Manual for Clinical Anatomy and Physiology for Veterinary Technicians, By Thomas P. Colville, Joanna M. Bassert, ISBN-13:9780323294751 Publisher:Elsevier Health Sciences
“The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases” by Karen L. Campbell DVM MS DAVCVIM DACVD, Saunders; 1 edition (November 14, 2005)
DVM360,Paw tissues unique; injuries need special care, attention, By Tannaz Amalsadvala, B.V.Sc. & A.H., MS retrieved from the web on May 3rd, 2016.
Merck Veterinary Manual, Description and Physical Characteristics of Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 3rd, 2016.
Lloyd, DH and Garthwaite, G (1982) Epidermal structure and surface-topography of canine skin. Research in veterinary care, 33 (1). pp. 99-104.

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I am Your Dog’s Uterus

March 14, 2025May 2, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

The dog’s uterus plays very important roles in the intact female dog’s body. This reproductive organ is similar in many ways to the uterus in women, but it’s also different in many other ways. When we think of the dog’s uterus, we often think about its ability to carry puppies, but since many dogs are spayed, dog owners often don’t think about this organ much. Regardless, learning more about a dog’s uterus can be fascinating, and in owners of intact dogs it can also be helpful so to learn how to recognize early signs of trouble that warrant a vet visit.

Introducing Your Dog’s Uterus

Hello, it’s your dog’s uterus talking! Many dog owners do not deal with me much. Once puppies reach a certain age, I am removed along with the ovaries in a procedure known as “ovariohysterectomy.” If that sounds a tad bit complicated, no worries, you can call it spay surgery or simply getting the dog “fixed.” Those though who decide to keep me for personal choice or reproductive purposes, will probably get to know me a whole lot.

If you look at me, I am a hollow muscular organ with a Y-shaped structure. Unlike the human uterus which is like a big sac because it’s mostly meant to carry one baby, I am shaped differently so the puppies are aligned nicely in a row along my uterine horns. To better understand my anatomy, take a look at the picture. The arms of the “Y” are my long uterine horns with the ovaries located at the end of each horn, the shorter part of the “Y” is my body and the very base of the “Y” is where the cervix is located. For the most part, the cervix is closed so to prevent pesky bacteria from climbing up and reaching me. In certain circumstances though such as when your dog is in heat or during birth and 3 weeks after giving birth, the sphincter of the cervix is temporarily open, explains veterinarian Margaret Root Kustritz, in the book “The Dog Breeder’s Guide to Successful Breeding and Health Management.”

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Did you know? There is an alternate option to spaying which involves leaving the uterus intact and only removing the dog’s ovaries. The procedure is known as an “ovariectomy” and can be done through laparoscopy, a less invasive type of surgery. Not many vets offer this though.

I Carry Puppies

When dogs get pregnant, the fertilized eggs travel through the long oviducts and then descend all the way down to me where they implant and start developing into puppies. Then, once the pups are ready to be born, I will help push them out. You may think of me just as a receptacle, but I don’t just sit there and carry puppies. When the puppies are in me, I have to stretch and develop along with the pups, and then once they’re born, I have to return to my initial pre-pregnancy size. Call that easy!

I also help out developing the puppy’s placentas, those life-sustaining structures that attach to my lining and keep the pups alive and nourished as they develop inside me. While I am mostly quiet during those 63 days of pregnancy, when the big day comes, boy do I get to work! I must contract powerfully so to open the now locked cervix and push out those pups and their placentas. Wheeeew… that’s quite a task! My job is still not done though, my contractions must continue even after all that work so to stop that annoying post-partum bleeding and get rid of any excess fluids.

Did you know? Once an ovum is fertilized, it’s known as a “zygote ” and by the time the zygote is ready to implant in the uterus lining, it’s known as a blastocyst.

When Things Go Wrong

Even though I am quite a simple structure, I am prone to several problems. When vets remove me during a spay surgery, sometimes things can go wrong. When it’s time to give birth, I may encounter some difficulties. Also, as I age and go through several heat cycles, I am more likely to thicken and become vulnerable to problems. Unlike humans though, dogs do not go through menopause, (yes, no doggy hot flashes!) so hormones keep being produced even into old age.

Surgical Complications

When a dog is in heat, I can become enlarged compared to a dog who is not in heat. If you are planning to spay your dog and your dog is in heat, expect veterinary receptionists to give you a bit of a hard time. Things get more complicated when I am swollen. This is why vets recommend waiting or charge more for spaying a dog who is in heat than one who is not.

While a spay surgery is really routine surgery, sometimes, in rare cases, things can get a bit messed up. Some of my tissue may be left behind and this can create problems. When this happens, the dog can’t bleed or get pregnant, but she may still develop others signs of a heat cycle, explains veterinarian Chris Bern. Deja vu, anyone? When this happens, it’s known as Ovarian Remnant Syndrome in Dogs. In some rare instance, these ovarian and uterine tissue remnants can develop what is known as “stump pyometra.”

Hormonal Abnormalities

When a dog is left intact (not spayed), there are risks that I can get infected at one time or another, especially in dogs over the age of six. Here’s what happens. As dogs go through several heat cycles without getting pregnant, my lining tends to thicken and cysts that release fluids may form. Now, consider that progesterone levels stay high for about 2 months following heat regardless if the dog is pregnant or not (that’s why it’s so hard telling a real pregnancy from a false pregnancy). These high levels of progesterone inhibit my muscles from contracting and expelling bacteria, thus creating the perfect grounds for a secondary bacterial infection.

This is when dogs get in trouble and develop what is known as pyometra, a condition that happens about two to eight weeks after the heat cycle. If the cervix is open, pus will drain out from me and make its way outside. This is when dog owners notice the abnormal discharge under the tail. If the cervix is closed, the pus will not have an outlet, thus it will collect in the dog’s abdomen causing it to enlarge and be very painful. Due to all the fluid accumulating in me and diseased tissues, I may go from weighing just a few pounds (as seen in an average-sized dog) to weighing even up to four pounds, warns Dr. Becker! No wonder why people have compared me to a stuffed venison sausage when this happens! With all this trouble going on, affected dogs get severely ill very rapidly, drinking more, acting lethargic and sometimes vomiting or having diarrhea. But wait, the worse has to come…If treatment isn’t sought quickly, I risk rupturing, spilling out my contents into the abdomen which can result in a fatal septic peritonitis or acute kidney failure. Yes, you don’t want to mess with me when I get so sick, see your vet at once!

“In the past, we thought pyometra was simply a uterine infection, but today, we know that it is a hormonal abnormality, and a secondary bacterial infection may or may not be present.”~Dr. Marty Smith

Bacterial Infections

Remember how I said that the cervix is usually closed, but during a heat cycle or after giving birth it tends to remain open? Well hear me out.. During a dog’s heat, the cervix is open so to allow sperm to go through, but along with the sperm, bacteria may make its way up to me. After the heat, the cervix tightly closes, trapping the bacteria inside. When bacteria invades me, dogs develop what is known as “metritis.” How is metritis different from pyometra? Unlike pyometra, metritis is not caused by a hormonal abnormality. Also, metritis is likely to develop right after the dog gives birth and sometimes after abortion or breeding, explains veterinarian Dr. Bari Spielman. I often get infected when right after birth there are retained placentas or dead fetuses. Now you know why most vets recommend a check up the first 24-48 hours after your dog gives birth.

Uterine Inertia

Sometimes, for one reason or another, I may get sluggish, and unable to contract enough to push the puppies out. When I act this way, you know you have to get help as fast as you can as I can’t perform my pushing duties. What causes me to not contract as I should? Dr. Lopate a member of the American College of Theriogenologists explains in the book “Management of Pregnant and Neonatal Dogs, Cats, and Exotic Pets” that this can be due malnutrition or conditions such as hypocalcemia, fatigue or some other systemic disease. When I fail to contract with sufficient force, the condition is known as primary inertia; whereas, in secondary intertia, my contractions are first vigorous but then they decrease in vigor. Often the problem is due to how the puppy is positioned, or if the puppy is too large and the birth passage to narrow. That’s the price to pay for those breeds with large heads! At the first signs of trouble, your best bet is to touch basis with your vet. Your vet may give your dog a shot to jump start me and get me back to work or he may need to do a C-section.

As seen, I am more than just a receptacle that holds puppies until they are born, I perform quite some complex roles. If you own an intact female, it’s imperative that you contact your vet as soon as possible at the first signs of trouble with me. And if your dog is pregnant and nearing delivery, please do me a big, big favor, will you? Keep your vet’s phone number handy, and get help as soon as you can so that I can do my work and safely deliver that batch of puppies you have been waiting for. Your dog, the pups and me will thank you.

Respectfully yours,

Your Dog’s Uterus.

Disclaimer: this article is not to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is having health problems, please consult with your vet at once.

References:

Pet Place, Structure and Function of the Female Canine Reproductive Tract, retrieved from the web on May 2nd, 2013
Pet Education, Anatomy and Function of the Reproductive System in Dogs, by Dr. Race Foster, retrieved from the web on May 2nd, 2013
VCA Animal Hospital, Pyometra in Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 2nd, 2013
Management of Pregnant and Neonatal Dogs, Cats, and Exotic Pets, By Cheryl Lopate, Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (13 July 2012)
Clinical Anatomy and Physiology for Veterinary Technicians, 3e 3rd Edition by Thomas P. Colville DVM MSc (Author), Joanna M. Bassert VMD (Author), Mosby; 3 edition (April 2, 2015)

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The Mystery Behind Trancing in Dogs

March 14, 2025May 1, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Among the odd and curious behaviors dogs do, trancing will always remain one of the most mysterious out there. Not all dogs seem to trance, but those who do surely leave their owners scratching their heads wondering what is going on with their canine companions. In some cases, dog owners may even be worried about their dog’s behavior as they wonder if their beloved dog is exhibiting some sort of odd seizure or if there may be some neurological or perhaps behavioral issue at play. Yet, many dog owners attest that when they have their dog seen by the vet, he turns out to being perfectly healthy and normal, other than exhibiting this odd dog trancing behavior!

Trancing in the Human World

Trancing is known as being in a half-conscious state, somewhere in between sleep and wake. When we think of this state, we can’t help it but think about a state induced by hypnosis, meditation or some paranormal phenomenon such as a magical incantation or an out-of-body experience. We may also think of it as a state induced by taking some sort of drug that cause alterations in perception, mood, or consciousness. While we can imagine a person being is such state, its not that easy imagining a dog acting this way, yet, there are many dog owners reporting that their dogs start trancing when they are exposed to specific tactile triggers found in their environment.

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Trancing in the Dog World

Also known as ghost walking or weed walking, trancing occurs when dogs move slowly in a trance-like fashion as they walk under low-hanging leaves, a bush, a Christmas tree, a long table cloth or under clothes hanging. What seems to trigger this odd behavior is the slight touch of something gently making contact with their skin. Dogs in a trance-like state will walk slowly and then may become very still or they may walk back and forth. Dog owners report seeing glazed-over eyes, but then once the dog snaps out of this state, the dog resumes normal activity as if nothing happened. How long do these trancing episodes last? According to Black’s Veterinary Dictionary, anywhere between a few seconds to longer than half an hour. Interestingly, bull terriers, basset hounds, greyhounds, Jack Russell terriers and salukis seem to be more prone to this behavior compared to other breeds. They say seeing is believing, so we are posting a couple of videos for those skeptics out there!

Snapping Out of It

Often dog owners wonder what they should do when they notice the trancing behavior. Asking the dog to do something else might work to help the dog snap out of it, but affected dogs may not be responsive as they normally are and some dogs may even appear irritated when interrupted, explain D. Caroline Coile and Margaret H. Bonham in the book “Why Do Dogs Like Balls?” Letting the dog be therefore may be the best solution.

What Surveys Say

Many dog owners are rightfully concerned as they wonder if trancing may stem from some underlying medical problem such as a neurological or behavioral issue. The Bull Terrier Neurological Disorder Resources website conducted a poll back in 2004, collecting data from owners of bull terriers. The poll results showed that 86 percent of the dogs were considered normal while 14 percent were showing neurological issues. Out of these normal dogs and dogs who had neurological issues, 73 percent would trance while 27 percent would not. Alice Moon-Fanelli, a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist with an interest in the behavior, has noted that a large amount of bull terriers trance, but has found no connection with tail chasing, a behavior common in this breed, thus, she claims that trancing should not be considered a precursor to tail chasing behavior.

“I should mention that an extraordinarily large number of Bull Terriers trance. While trancing is an abnormal behavior, I now view it as separate from tail chasing. In other words, if any of you have a Bullie that’s currently walking in slo-mo under your Norfolk Pine as you read this—don’t panic that this will eventually evolve into tail chasing!” ~ Alice Moon Fanelli

Did you know? Since trancing is quite common in bull terriers, it’s sometime referred to as the “Bull terrier Ghost walk.”

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