Adrienne Farricelli

Are You Inadvertently Reinforcing Your Dog?

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Dogs are often accused of barking in our faces, pawing at us, acting pushy, begging at the table and stealing our stuff, but it’s not always the dog’s fault; often we are inadvertently reinforcing their behaviors without noticing. Every time we look at dog behavior, both the “good” behaviors or the ones that we perceive as “bad,” it’s helpful to take a critical view and evaluate what is fueling the behavior in the first place. By carefully evaluating the dynamics, it often turns out that what we do is what is actually fueling the behavior, and therefore the resolution to the problem relies on us changing our ways rather than trying to change our dogs!

old dog learns tricksDogs are Always Learning

We often think that our dogs are learning only during training sessions, but actually dogs are in a constant  state of learning, and that includes learning good behaviors and the bad ones too! While it’s true that young dogs come with a great advantage when it comes to their brain’s ability to create new neural pathways, the plasticity of the dog’s brain lasts a lifetime, meaning that a dog’s brain never stops changing and adapting. Yes, young dogs in particular, are easily influenced and particularly malleable to learning new behaviors. but old dogs can learn new tricks too as new studies have found that even in old age the brain has the ability to be plastic. Following are several ways dogs may learn undesirable behaviors because of a history of owners inadvertently reinforcing them.

“Neuroplasticity never ends, you can in fact teach an old dog new tricks, it just might take a little longer.” ~Shelli R. Kesler, senior research scientist at Stanford University School of Medicine.

Pay attention to me!

Pushy Pawers

Raise your hand if you ever ended up petting your dog while you were talking on the phone. There’s nothing wrong with this really, except when you start rewarding your dog for acting pushy. So you might be petting your dog for a few seconds and then you may stop. Then, because your dog was enjoying the interaction and wants more, he pushes his head under your hand. So you absent-mindedly resume, petting him once again. Then again, you stop. At this point, your dog puts his head on your lap, but since you are not petting him, your dog paws at you so you end up petting him again afterward.

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This scene repeats over and over when you’re on the phone or watching TV, and at one point you may notice that your dog has now started pawing at you more and more often when you’re not petting him. Soon, you are upset that your dog has learned a new bad habit. Off the forums you go to ask for help. “Help, my dog paws at me insistently when I speak over the phone or watch TV! How did this happen? Why is my dog so pushy lately?”

This is a classic example of inadvertently rewarding pushy behavior in a dog. The dog started asking to be pet more and his persistence was reinforced over time. The dog therefore learned that nudging worked in getting attention, but then when the the owner was distracted, he has found that pawing may work. Persistence pays off.

“Clients often tell me that they don’t have time to be constantly rewarding their dog. However, many owners are masters of positive reinforcement-but don’t realise it.”The APBC Book of Companion Animal Behaviour

Boredom Barkers 

This other cliche’ is also a common one: dog owners are sitting on the couch and ready to watch their favorite television show after a long day at work, and here comes Rover who starts bringing his toys and barking at his owners.

Perhaps these dogs have been bored and lonely all day long and have been anxiously waiting their owners’ return in hopes of some fun activity. So the owners finally come home and what? They sit on the couch? Rover must desperately come up with some plan to get them to interact with him. So off he goes to fetch a toy and he presents the slimy ball to them. But nope, that doesn’t work to get them to launch him the ball and interact with him.

So next comes plan B, trying to bark at them. “Hey, toss that ball, won’t you? Let’s play! Let’s do something! Just please, please, please don’t just stay hours watching that box again, I have loads of energy, ya know?” So at some point, the owners make him happy, they finally toss the ball and they toss it several times when their dog barks at them as a reminder, just to shut him up and watch the movie in peace. What did this just teach the dog? That persistence pays off! Too bad though that their owners often end up needing to hire a trainer weeks later as their dog’s barking  starts getting out of control.

Bold Beggars

Who can resist a dog looking at you with pleading eyes as you are enjoying a juicy steak? Many can’t. That’s why there are so many begging dogs out there. Begging at the table is reinforced when owners think their dogs look cute so they give in and give them a tasty morsel. Obviously, the consequence is a dog who will always be sticking nearby the table, making a cute face.  Totally expected.

At times, though the behavior is  inadvertently reinforced. Sloppy eaters like kids may drop many crumbs or the kids may be purposely passing the dog the broccoli they don’t want to eat. Even food accidentally dropped and quickly collected by Rover who coincidentally was at the right place, at the right time, can be reinforcing. No wonder why Rover loves to stick by the table!

Understimulated Stealers

Have a dog who loves to steal things? Have you ever found yourself chasing your dog around the table when he gets a hold of your shoes/socks/underwear/anything you hold in your hands? While this may be frustrating for the owner, the dog is likely instead having a blast! In the dog world, playing a game of keep away is one of the most fun ways to play. One dog grabs a toy and the other dog chases. This game can be highly rewarding for a dog who has loads of energy and a need to play, so this behavior is likely to continue. A fun way for a bored, under-stimulated dog to get his own form of entertainment and involve the owner!

Jolly Jumpersjumping dog

So you know that your dog is not supposed to jump on you, so you make sure you don’t pet him unless he standing is on all fours or sitting. However, when you come back from your week-end trips, your dog is so happy to see you, you cannot resist the commotion and just pet him while he’s standing up against you happily licking your face.

And some goes when aunt Molly comes over. She has owned dogs all her life and doesn’t mind having him jump on her, but you make sure he doesn’t do that with anybody else.

What happens next? You guessed it, you’ll have a dog who will jump more and more and who doesn’t have a clue of which guests he can jump on and which ones he cannot, but the behavior is worth trying as eventually one person or another gives in and greets him happily.

dog digging for attentionNegative is Better than Nothing

Many dog owners are surprised when they are told that for many dogs any kind attention can be rewarding, even the negative type. Imagine for a moment a dog who is left alone all day while the owner is at work. He spends hours at at home doing nothing and eagerly awaits his owners to come home in hopes for a walk or a game of fetch. His high hopes and expectations start fading though when the owner sits on the couch with the remote in his hand. So the poor dog starts casually chewing on the owner’s shoe. The owner get angry “Bad dog! Leave my shoe alone.” Bingo, the dog got at least some attention from his owner! He looked at him and then even talked to him! Soon the dog learns that when he craves attention, all he needs to do is do something the owner doesn’t like.

Playing the Slots

Think that it’s OK every now and then to give in? Think again, this is the best way to give the dog the idea that there are no consistent rules and that persistence pays off. It’s the canine version of playing the slot machines, sooner or later he will win the jackpot. So say, you never feed your dog at the table but then one day you feel sorry because he had a bad day at the vet. So you hand feed him a little piece of steak. Then, for another week no more feeding at the table but Buster is always nearby the table staring at you in hopes of a tasty morsel. All until the next vet visit when you feel compelled to give him a tiny piece again. This is the best way to pave the path to a persistent begging behavior because the behavior is put on a variable schedule.  And don’t just assume that giving a teeny piece in a blue moon won’t lead to begging; studies have revealed that animals will persist and keep trying even if the reward is small and given sparingly.

Did you know? It’s important for everybody to be on the same page when it comes to changing dog behavior. As Steven Lindsay claims goes a long way: “Finally, inadvertent or bootleg reinforcement is a frequent problem in family situations where differences of opinion exist regarding an unwanted behavior… One family member may may feel strongly that the dog should not be allowed on furniture while other members enjoy such behavior and allow it in the objector’s absence… Training requires a united front with a shared sense of purpose and agreement on the behavior being modified.”

Catch your dog doing good!
Catch your dog being good!

Tackling the Issues

When your dog behaves “badly” stop punishing and instead critically evaluate whether there’s inadvertent reinforcement at play. If so, stop reinforcing the behavior (expect a few extinction bursts in the process)  Also, make a commitment to use management techniques so to prevent these behaviors from happening in the first place (for instance when you come home from work, walk your dog, play with him and provide interactive toys before sitting on the couch) and train alternative behaviors so that you can provide reinforcement for behaviors you want (eg. train your dog to drop instead of running after him or teach him to go to his mat and enjoy his Kong during meal times rather than begging for table scraps). Set your best buddy for success!

Also, it’s important to capture those moments when your dog is behaving well. Many dog owners fall into the trap of interacting with their dogs only when they are misbehaving while missing all those wonderful opportunities to reward all those good behaviors that go unnoticed. So pay attention to what your dog is doing so you can change the dynamics and pave the path for catching more good behaviors so to help your dog become a better behaved companion.

 

References:

  • The APBC Book of Companion Animal Behaviour, By Sarah Heath, Rosie Barclay, Julie Bedford Souvenir Press (April 1, 2016)
  • Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 1: Adaptation and Learning Volume One Edition, by Steven R. Lindsay, Iowa State University Press; Volume One edition (January 31, 2000)

 

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Surprise! Your Dog is Not Aggressive As Thought

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How many times have you heard somebody say: “My dog is aggressive?” Most likely, if you are a dog owner, or frequent people with dogs, you have heard somebody make this statement at some time. Perhaps you may have even made that statement yourself to warn others about your own dog. Depending on who you talk to, the word “aggressive dog” may translate into mental images of a dangerous, snarling dog or perhaps thoughts about legal liabilities. Today, we’ll be discovering how labeling dogs as aggressive is not only harmful to the dog itself, but also inaccurate if we take a closer look into the dynamics taking place behind those “language barriers” between humans and dogs.

dog aggressionAggression in Humans

What exactly is aggression? Psychology expert Kendra Cherry,  defines aggression as “a range of behaviors that can result in both physical and psychological harm to oneself, others or objects in the environment.”

This definition is quite clear and easy to understand for us humans overall, but when it comes to dogs the problem with this definition is in its interpretation.

It seems like many people may interpret things differently, depending on who you ask. What behaviors in dogs are really meant to harm?  Sure we may list lunging, barking, growling, snarling as behaviors that could potentially harm a person or other dog, but is the dog intently wishing to harm when he engages in such behaviors?

As humans, we have complex minds and we often engage in sophisticated thought processes. We plan attacks, go to war, behave out of spite, take revenge and we are even able to harm others emotionally, but what about dogs? Are our dogs really “aggressive?”

” In the end, we may rightly call much human behaviour aggressive. However, dogs are not human, and it’s not fair to project human qualities onto them.” ~Alexandra Semyonova

Aggression in Dogsdog barking

When it comes to dogs, things are quite different than in humans. Dogs don’t act out of spite, they do not plot revenge, they don’t strategically plan a war or look for ways to hurt others emotionally.

In dogs, “aggressive” behaviors are often adaptive, meaning that they have a survival purpose and the purpose in this case is attaining a certain level of control over their environment and its associated events.

This doesn’t mean that dogs are taking every chance they can get to take control over us, “dominating” us as some television show may portray. It simply means that dogs may engage in aggressive behaviors so they can avoid certain things and attain others that make them feel safer.

There is often an element of reinforcement playing a part in the background of dogs who are engaging in aggressive displays. For example, if a dog is fearful of men wearing hats, his barking and lunging keeps men with hats away and the dog soon learns that his behavior works so he’ll be likely to engage in the same behavior next time.

Same goes with  dogs who “hate” the mailman or  a dog who growls when in possession of something. This latter dog is likely telling the person or other dog something along the terms of “I don’t trust you near my resource, now please back off!” Obtaining distance can be highly reinforcing to a dog who feels threatened by someone who risks taking his resource away.

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“Survival itself is the ultimate goal of adaptive behavior. In order to achieve survival, an animal must adapt and control events that impact upon its needs. Aggression is one behavioral response towards that goal.” James O’ Heare

Whale EyesAggression to Avoid Aggression

Dogs often engage in natural behaviors that are actually meant to avoid aggression in the first place. In other words their “aggressive” displays are meant to actually avoid causing harm.

The barking, growling and tooth displays are ways dogs are trying to inform other people or dogs about how they feel. They’re a dog’s plea to please listen to his feelings so he doesn’t have to escalate his behavior to a potential bite. It’s the canine version of  a child “using his words” if you will.” How any times do we will tell children who resort to hair pulling or pushing: “Use your words!”

If you therefore understand a dog’s language, you may see that dogs generally  try to do “everything in their power to avoid aggressive encounters” as Alexandra Semyonova points out  in her book “The 100 Silliest Things People Say about Dogs.”

Dogs therefore tend to engage in what biologists refer to as “ritualized aggression.” While barking, growling and teeth displays are common straightforward ritualistic displays, there are several more subtle ways dogs attempt to manifest their discomfort in a situation. Whale eyes, lip licks, head turns and yawns are all part of a dog’s extended early warning system.

Too bad these subtle warning signs of increasing stress are often missed by many dog owners. If these signs aren’t noticed doesn’t mean the dog didn’t send them out, it’s likely they simply weren’t recognized by the owner, or worse, were suppressed using punishment (never punish a dog for growling!) Avoid punishment-based techniques because they do more harm than good, leading to more defensive behaviors down the road). Then, dogs are blamed for suddenly “lashing out” when they instead tried really, really hard to communicate with us, but we didn’t give them a chance. Talk about language barriers!

“Hard stares, growling, snarling, snapping and biting without maiming force are the “legal” conflict resolution behaviors in dog society.”~Jean Donaldson

The Problems With Labelsdog aggressive terrirotial

What happens when dogs are labeled as aggressive? This “umbrella term” gives the impression that dogs are dangerous, unpredictable and untrustworthy all of the time. Instead, most dogs who are labeled as are aggressive are only acting “aggressively” in specific contexts and situations.

Dogs may therefore act “aggressively” when they feel threatened when people or other dogs come near their bone or when people come near their perceived properties. Just because a dog acts aggressively in a certain context, doesn’t make him aggressive all the time!

Same goes with humans. If you get angry at a person who cuts in front of you when you are in line or tries to steal your wallet, does that mean you are “aggressive?” Certainly not! It’s human nature to over-generalize behaviors.

We therefore end up with dog owners making absolute statements such as “my dog hikes his leg ALL the time” or my dog is NEVER listening. And then comes the labeling cliche’ with its associated statements “my dog is stubborn, my dog is hyper or my dog is aggressive” when in reality the dog is acting this way only certain times.

“There are very few dogs who are prone to aggression regardless of the situation. That’s why it’s helpful to think in terms of of aggressive behaviors rather than aggressive dogs when trying to reduce your dog’s tendencies to growl or bite. Usually these behaviors are related to specific events, relationships or environments.~ Dog Time

dog aggressionAggression isn’t Descriptive

When we label a dog or a specific dog breed as aggressive, we are perpetuating a belief that the behavior is reflecting the dog’s essence. This can be harmful to both dog and owner because it often implies the belief that that specific dog cannot change.

And every time the dog behaves in a negative manner, it’s taken as evidence that the dog is bad, and thus “aggressive.” We therefore end up missing the important fact that the dog is most likely just a dog who behaves normally most of the time, but just happened to react aggressively in a particular context.

Also, labeling a dog as “aggressive” gives little information about what is really happening and it doesn’t help much with arranging a plan to tackle the issue.

“Aggression as it used to describe a dog’s behavior, is not an adjective, it’s a verb.”~ Sarah Hodgson

Changing Labelsdog guarding

What happens though when we replace the term aggressive with something else? This makes us see things from a whole different perspective.

So instead of saying “my dog is aggressive” using the word aggressive as an adjective, we would perhaps say “my dog acts aggressively” or “uses aggression” or “behaves aggressively” when he has a bone.”

This description can be further broken down by removing the term aggressive altogether and describing the aggressive behavior instead, as such: “My dog growls when he has a bone” or even better “my dog growls when he has a bone and I come close to him.”

We now have a clearer picture of what the dog is doing and in what circumstance the behavior is taking place. This can be very helpful for when we consult with a professional and are describing the issue and it helps us also see the behavior from a more positive perspective.

“Actions can be changed, DNA cannot. If you believe your dog IS shy, scared, soft, aggressive, etc., you will become crippled in your training of him by his personality. However, if you believe your dog is acting in a certain way, you will treat him very differently because you will believe you can change his behavior.”~ Connie Cleveland

dog shelterNormal, Natural Behavior
Interestingly, many of us aren’t much surprised when a cat hisses and attempts to scratch when cornered or when bulls react by lowering their heads or when a horse tries to kick another horse.
When it comes to dogs though, our expectations become astoundingly high. We don’t want them to show any signs of aggression throughout their lives, not even the ritualized ones. An expectation that not even us humans can meet, points out Jean Donaldson in the book “Mine!”
A clarification is important at this point: while most dogs are never aggressive all the time, all dogs are capable of acting aggressively. From puppies, to small dogs, to old dogs to mixed dogs, all dogs have a pre-installed tendency to act aggressively when the need arises. If dogs did not have this tendency, this species would probably have been wiped out and extinct  by now as acting aggressively is how dogs protect themselves from harm.
Acting aggressively is therefore normal and natural behavior in dogs, humans and other living creatures. This doesn’t mean that we shouldn’t take aggressive behaviors seriously, to the contrary, it  means that it’s very important to acknowledge the language barriers that divides us and to listen to what dogs are trying to say so that we can take note and try to effectively address our companion’s internal emotional turmoils.
“Our expectations of dogs are very high, actually. The standard we have set for them is one we would consider absurd for any other species of animal, including ourselves… This is exactly like you going a lifetime without ever once losing your temper, swearing at another driver in traffic..writing a hot letter to an editor, ..calling a lawyer…And if it wasn’t enough, we also want dogs to be suddenly aggressive if a crime is being perpetuated against us” ~Jean Donaldson
 Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional behavior advice. If your dog is showing aggressive behaviors, please consult with a qualified professional invested in using humane behavior modification methods.

 

References:

  • Dog Time, Understanding canine aggression, retrieved from the web on August 13th, 2016
  • The 100 Silliest Things People Say about Dogs, By Alexandra Semyonova, Hastings Press (July 27, 2009)
  • Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs, by Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing; 1st edition (January 1, 2002)
  • Aggressive Behavior in Dogs, by James O’Heare, 2014,  Distributed by Dogwise Publishing

 

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Five Fascinating Facts About Your Dog’s Nostrils

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That dogs have a dazzling sense of smell is a known fact that most people are aware of, but many folks might not know much about a dog’s nostrils, those openings that allow dogs to breath in air, exhale and evaluate all those interesting smells lingering around. Like us, dogs have two nostrils, but a dog’s nostrils are quite interesting to discover more about considering their roles in taking in all sorts of smells. So today, let’s learn more about a dog’s nostrils. So here are five fascinating facts about dog nostrils just waiting to be discovered!

nostrils1) Wiggle that Nostril

Dogs have the ability to move their nostrils independently.  Yes, that means one at a time. When they do this, they are evaluating the smell and perhaps even trying to determine exactly from what direction the scent is coming from. Cool, eh?

2) Pant or Sniff?

While dogs can move a nostril independently from the other, on the other hand, they are not able to pant and sniff at the same time. This is why when you present a panting dog your open hand with a bit of food on it, he will stop panting. When he does this, he’s temporarily turning off his normal breathing process and “switching on” his scent processing ability so to check it out, explains  Stanley Coren in the book “How Dogs Think.”

This also explains why working scent dogs become less reliable when the weather is particularly hot. According to research conducted by Irit Gazit and Joseph Terkel, reduced olfactory efficiency was noticed in sniffer dogs when they were overheated. This can obviously turn quite problematic for search and rescue teams, but it can remedied by keeping the dogs cool and allowing them time to acclimate to hot weather.

“Dogs cannot simultaneously pant and sniff or breathe through their nose, and they have alar folds/flap on the sides of their nose that move up and out when they take a deep breath. This means you can use the movement of these folds -the dilation of the nostrils- to indicate and confirm when the dog is holding his breathe.”~Karen Overall

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dog nose3) Right Nostril Bias

In humans and dogs, it’s a known fact that the brain is divided right down the middle leading to a specific hand preference. We therefore have “lefties and righties,” but what about dogs? We know that dogs seem to have a paw preference too, but even more interestingly, it looks like when it comes to dogs, nostril preference is also present and it’s used accordingly based on what they’re sniffing.

In a recent study conducted by Siniscalchi, M., et al, dogs were exposed to six different types of smell and their reactions to these smells were evaluated. The dogs were introduced to the smell of food, the smell of a female dog in heat, the scent of lemon, an odorless cotton swab, the smell of sweat coming from a vet and the smell of adrenaline.

The dogs were allowed to investigate these smells several times and watched carefully. It  was noticed that when they investigated these smells for the first times, they used their right nostril. After some time though, they then switched to using their left one. The only exception to this rule occurred with the smell of the vet’s sweat and the smell of adrenaline which they must have categorized as “aversive.”

At a closer evaluation, this”right nostril bias” isn’t surprising because the olfactory system is displayed ipsilaterally (affecting the same side of the body) and therefore the right nostril is known to connect with the right side of the brain and vice versa. From previous research it’s known that the right hemisphere of the brain is the side that tends to deal with novelty and the elicitation of emotions associated with the fight or flight response, while the left hemisphere tends to deal with routine investigation, approach behavior, and attractiveness.

nostril airflow4) Those Interesting Slits

Why do dogs have slits on the sides of their nostrils? Well, believe it or not, even those slits have an important role. While the front part of the nostrils take in air, those slits on the sides are there so to allow the air to escape when the dog exhales. When the air flows out of the side slits, it creates a swirl that helps with the sampling of new odors. But wait there’s more! Those slits may also carry another important role, but this time, it has to do with awww, cute baby puppies…

“Here’s why this is particularly special: the photography also reveals that the slight wind generated by the exhale in fact helps pull more of the new scent in by creating a current of air over it.”~Alexandra Horowitz

  puppy5) Heat Sensors

Mother Nature may spare puppies from being able to see or hear at birth, but she was certainly generous in the olfactory department. Not only can puppies smell at birth and even prior to being born, but their noses appear to be equipped with special heat sensors.

Ever wondered how a newborn puppy is able to crawl back to mom? Momma’s smell may play a role, but  Yngve Zotterman, of the Swedish Research Council, actually discovered another fascinating perk.

Basically, puppies are equipped with special heat sensors which are located around those nostril slits and the opening to their nasal passages. It has been found that these sensors are capable of detecting infrared energy that’s radiated from warm objects. Fascinating stuff!

“Evolution has provided an additional source of sensory information to help the puppy at this critical time in the form of special heat sensors in his nose”~Stanley Coren 

References:

  • Siniscalchi M., Anna M. Pepe, Salvatore Dimatteo, Giorgio Vallortigara & Angelo Quaranta (2011). Sniffing with the right nostril: lateralization of response to odour stimuli by dogs, Animal Behaviour, 82 (2) 399-404. DOI:
  • Irit Gazit, Joseph Terkel, Explosives detection by sniffer dogs following strenuous physical activity Applied Animal Behaviour Science, Volume 81, Issue 2, Pages 149–161
  • How Dogs Think, Understanding the Canine Mind By Stanley Coren, Free Press; 1st edition (August 3, 2004)
  • Why Does My Dog Act That Way?: A Complete Guide to Your Dog’s Personality, By Stanley Coren Free Press; 1 Reprint edition (December 4, 2007)
  • ‘Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know, By Alexandra Horowitz, Scribner; a edition (September 28, 2010).
  • Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)

 

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Does My Dog Have Separation Anxiety?

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Your dog whines, cries and chews on things when you are gone, but not always these signs are indicative that your dog is suffering from separation anxiety. For a good reason, behavior experts call separation anxiety the “great imitator” as it can mimic other medical and behavioral diagnosis. While in this article we will be pointing out other possible conditions that may look like separation anxiety, it’s important to understand that they are not intended to be perceived a diagnosis. Only by seeing your veterinarian or consulting with a behavior professional you can really find out the real answer to “does my dog have separation anxiety or not?”

does my dog have separation anxietyImportance of Differential Diagnosis

When a dog or person presents with symptoms, it’s important to obtain a correct diagnosis. In medicine, the practice of distinguishing a particular disease or condition from others is known as “differential diagnosis.” By collecting the patient’s medical history and perhaps running a battery of tests, doctors, through a process of elimination, can heighten the chances for a correct diagnosis while eliminating the most imminently life-threatening conditions.

A differential diagnosis procedure is important when it comes to behavior problems too. Dogs may show signs of a specific behavior problem, only to discover later that it was a totally different type of behavior issue or  even the result of a medical condition. No wonder the treatment protocol didn’t work! For this reason it’s important to consult with a professional who asks questions and uses a a systematic diagnostic method so to rule out other potential conditions causing similar signs.

idea tipDid you know? A possible cause of separation anxiety appearing so prevalent nowadays is the fact that due to the raised awareness of it, separation anxiety is misdiagnosed with some frequency, explains Pat Miller, dog trainer and owner of Peaceable Paws.

My Dog Has Accidents When I Leavedog window

A dog who eliminates when he is left alone may be a sign of separation anxiety, but it also can be something else. If you are away for a good part of the day, it could be your dog simply cannot hold it for so long. Young dogs may have not been completely house trained and older dogs may be suffering from an underlying medical condition. A dog who starts having accidents out of the blue can be highly indicative of a possible acute medical problem such as a bladder infection. It’s therefore important to evaluate several possibilities.

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For instance, dogs may eliminate when they are frightened or stressed which can happen when they are home alone and exposed to scary noises. There are also chances that dogs who use doggy doors may have been frightened by scary stimuli in the yard so they no longer feel safe and start eliminating in the house. Some dogs may urine mark when they have access to windows and watch other dogs walk by which makes them feel compelled to urine mark. And then you have dogs with a substrate preference, who eliminate in the home simply because they have access to their favorite  substrates (eg. carpet, tiles or hardwood floor.)

dog guilty lookMy Dog is Destructive When I am Not Home

A dog who is destructive when left alone may be a sign of separation anxiety, but it can also be something else. Young dogs are often left home alone with lots of energy to spare, so when boredom sets in, they may decide to entertain themselves by disassembling the remote, destroying pillows and even removing the “entrails” from the couch. If your dog has been punished in the past for chewing items or acting destructive, there are chances he has associated your presence with punishment, so he’ll therefore chew when you are out of the home. Stop punishing your dog and instead manage his environment and provide him with plenty of acceptable things to chew on. Also make sure to meet his needs for exercise and mental stimulation!

Dogs who are stressed, aggressive or scared, may also become destructive at times. These upset dogs may be trying to escape from scary noises and aggressive dogs may start chewing on window sills and doors if they are bothered by triggers such as people or dogs walking by the house, explains veterinary behaviorist Dr. Stepita. Sometimes, female dogs may dig at their bedding as a sign of false-pregnancy (pseudocyesis) following being spayed. In these dogs, hormonal supplementation can help them out, explains veterinarian Etienne Cote. 

” Dogs with territorial aggression vocalize in response to their triggers (people, dogs) passing by and approaching the house. They may even become destructive, chewing and scratching door frames or window sills during aggressive episodes”~ Dr. Stepita

My Dog Cries When I leave the Housedog anxiety

A dog who vocalizes when left home alone may be showing signs of separation anxiety, but it also can be something else. If your neighbors report your dog vocalizes a whole lot during the day while you’re out, there can be chances that he’s reacting to sounds such as door bells, trucks passing by, dog tags jingling, critters in the attic or people talking.

Many dogs will also vocalize when they hear other dogs barking, when they are protective of their perceived territory and when they feel fearful and stressed from some noises. Generalized Anxiety Disorder (GAD) may cause signs similar to separation anxiety. Also, it’s important to consider that senior dogs may vocalize more as they show signs of cognitive decline and some may start experiencing distress as they’re relying on their owners more and more for reassurance when their sight or hearing weakens.

“Senior pets may have greater difficult adapting to change and health problems may further contribute to the problem. As the pet’s anxiety and insecurities increase, the pet may seek out the owner’s attention. “~ Gary M. Landsberg et al.

lonely dogThe Importance of Context

Signs of separation anxiety in dogs tend to occur in a specific context: when the owner is getting ready to leave and when he’s gone. Generally, these signs tend to get increasingly more severe as the owner is leaving with the peak taking place shortly after the owner leaves. So if say a dog eliminates in the home when the owner leaves but also does so on the days the owner is at home, it’s likely that the elimination is not related to the owner’s absence.

Same goes with chewing. If the dog chews on more generalized items than door frames, windowsills and walls (as these are perceived by the dog as the barriers separating them from the owner), there are chances that the destructive behavior is not linked to separation anxiety but due to something else.

“Sep-anx dogs are often model dogs when they’re not left alone.”~Jean Donaldson

The Importance of Recordingdog window

So how can dog owners have a better idea on whether their dog has separation anxiety or not? A good place to start is by videotaping the behavior in the owner’s absence. By simply placing a camera at an effective angle that captures the entryway including doors and windows can be quite insightful. Even better, setting up a live webcam can be quite helpful so that the dog owners can return in case the dog is about to become destructive, or  worse, risks injuring himself. Showing the video then to a behavior professional may be quite helpful as it can provide an important puzzle piece along with other clues obtained from the dog’s medical and behavioral history.

As seen, separation anxiety may be sometimes tricky to diagnose. Best to play it safe and obtain a proper diagnosis by first seeing the vet so to rule out certain medical disorders, and then consulting with a behavioral professional so to ensure there are not other possible conditions at play.

“It is critically important that a problem behavior be correctly identified prior to the implementation of a behavior modification protocol. It does no good to try to modify separation anxiety if that’s not really the problem.” ~Pat Miller

Did you know? Separation anxiety is different from isolation distress. According to Malena DeMartini, dog trainer and author of “Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs,” a dog suffering from separation anxiety experiences extreme distress when separated from a specific person, or, occasionally, two people. On the contrary, dogs suffering from isolation distress suffer from the mere fact of being isolated, therefore as long as they have a caregiver to keep them company, any person “will do.”

 

References:

  • Psychology Today, Separation Anxiety: The Great Imitator, Part 1, retrieved from the web on August 11th, 2016
  • Clinical Veterinary Advisor: Dogs and Cats, By Etienne Cote, Mosby; 3 edition (December 23, 2014)
  • Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life, By Pat Miller, Dogwise Publishing (June 25, 2010)
  • Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat3: Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat By Gary M. Landsberg, Wayne L. Hunthausen, Lowell J. Ackerman, Saunders Ltd.; 3 edition (December 28, 2012)
  • Oh Behave!: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker, By Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing (April 1, 2008)
  • How Serious is it and Does it Matter, by Malena DeMartini, retrieved from the web on August 11th, 2016

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Stretching the Ratio

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What does it mean to stretch the ratio when it comes to dog training? First of all, it’s important to understand how dogs are trained in the initial stages of learning. When it comes to dog training, positive reinforcement is a very powerful and effective tool as it offers the win-win situation of strengthening desired behaviors while making the training process fun and rewarding without resorting to pain, punishment or intimidation. To better understand what stretching the ratio means, we will therefore have to take a peak at what happens to dogs during the initial stages of learning and how we can balance a reduced reliance on treats with keeping the dog motivated and happy.

dog stretch the ratioThe Power of Positive Reinforcement

When we apply positive reinforcement, we are basically adding a consequence that, from the dog’s perspective, is rewarding enough so to entice him to want to repeat the behavior. The power of positive reinforcement is that it results in behaviors increasing and strengthening. So for example, if we are training our dog to sit and give him a treat every time his bottom touches the floor, with time and practice, we will see an increase of the sitting behavior.

When we provide our dogs with a reward for every desired response, we are using what is known as a Continuous Schedule of Reinforcement (CRF). This schedule is not limited to dog training. We can see plenty of examples of this happening in our everyday lives. Every time we press the power button on our remotes, our T.V. it turns on (when the battery is not dead of course), every time we turn the notch of our gas stove, the burner lights up, every time we insert a dollar bill in the vending machine, it releases our favorite soda.

The Problems With Using CRF

While a continuous schedule works great initially when we first start training a new behavior, if we continue rewarding the dog all the time for every correct response we will eventually end up rewarding also below average responses. For example, when we reward our dog for sitting correctly all the time, most likely among those sits are also slow-to-respond sits, and we may expect even, sloppy sits (with the legs spread out to the side) to mix in every now and then. By continuing to dole out treats for every single correct response we will be therefore removing opportunities for improvement and the quality of the behavior is affected. On top of that, the longer the dog is rewarded for every correct response, the harder it becomes to start phasing out all those rewards when a dog has relied on them for so long. This results in a dog who expects a reward every single time.

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” If you reward a dog for every correct response, approximately 50% of the time you will reward the dog for above–average responses and 50% of the time you will reward a dog for below average responses. It is simply too silly to reward a dog for below-average responses.” Ian Dunbar

A Bit of a Stretchdog sit

Stretching the ratio is the procedure used to gradually increase the number of responses required for the dog to earn reinforcement (rewards that increase/strengthen behaviors). We don’t want to phase out the food rewards completely, otherwise the behavior risks becoming extinct eventually disappearing from the dog’s behavior repertoire. So at some point, once the dog shows signs of responding at a steady rate, it’s time to stretch the ratio and start working our way up from a continuous schedule to an intermittent one, where behavior is rewarded randomly on some occasions and not others, which works great for maintaining behavior and preventing it from becoming extinct. This schedule indeed leads to permanence of the behavior. An intermittent schedule also works great for gradually thinning out those food rewards, so that the dog doesn’t rely on them too much. Yes, gradually is the important keyword here!

“Stretching the ratio: gradually increasing the number of times a behavior must be performed to qualify for reinforcement. May produce ratio strain if done incorrectly.” ~Science of Behavior

dog training mistakesPreventing Ratio Strain

Just like an elastic band may break if you stretch it too much, your dog’s behavior may start breaking apart if you stretch the ratio too much. Ratio strain is the technical term used to depict the phenomenon when a dog’s pattern of responding begins disrupting because of stretching that ratio too much. It’s the classic cliche’ seen in workplaces across the globe when workers start grumbling because they are overworked and underpaid.

So asking too much and giving a low rate of reinforcement frequency can cause problems that may lead to dogs getting too frustrated, showing displacement behaviors and giving up. Just imagine what a person  would do if the vending machine doesn’t deliver the soda upon inserting  the dollar bill. Most likely, he may try pushing the buttons and possibly even kicking the machine!

So to prevent this from happening, we can stretch the ratio very gradually, and if we need to remedy the situation, we can temporarily increase the rewards for a bit until we reestablish the behavior and then we can start gradually stretching.

The process of stretching the ratio must therefore be very gradual as we’re shaping persistence. We would therefore start by giving a treat to the dog for every successful sit at first (CRF), then as the dog responds at a steady rate, we can start giving the treat every other sit, then we can start rewarding randomly like the third sit, the second sit, the fifth sit, etc. This is a good time to start raising criteria, raising the bar and paying attention to what the dog does so we can start picking out only the best sits to reward, so that we improve quality. Once we have successfully stretched the ratio, we should see a dog who is on his toes and eager to work for that random reward, yes, just like a gambler playing the slots at Vegas!

“Casinos, believe me, use the power of the variable ratio schedule to develop behaviors, such as playing slot machines, that are very resistant to extinction, despite highly variable and unpredictable reinforcement.”~Karen Pryor

dog grasssAn Up and Down Process

Moving from a continuous schedule to an intermittent one is not a clear cut process like turning on a light switch. For example, when your dog learns to sit reliably in your living room (like at least eight times out of ten,) you may start giving treats randomly, but then, once you’re out in the yard, where there are more distractions around, your best bet is to move back to a continuous schedule temporarily until your dog responds reliably in spite of those distractions. Also, when training a dog to perform a behavior when using shaping (a training method that entails rewarding successive approximations of the final behavior ) ” you’ll also find yourself rewarding continuously and then variably at times as you establish new criterion.

“Reinforcement may go from predictable to a little unpredictable back to predictable, as you climb, step by step, toward your ultimate goal…Marian Breland Bailey told me she called this a “shaping schedule.” It’s a natural part of the shaping process.”~ Karen Pryor

Tip: If you couple giving a reward with praise (eg. good boy!), your dog will associate those words with something good, so that when you’re not giving treats, praise will still have good value to communicate a job well done!

warning cautionDid you know? Stretching the ratio is astutely used in gambling establishments. Card sharks will let you win frequently during the early stages of play and then once you’re hooked, they’ll stretch the ratio gradually and then start winning more and more of the games, explains Paul Chance in the book “Learning and Behavior.”

 

References:

  • Clicker Training, Extinction and Intermittent Reinforcement, retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • Clicker Training, Reinforce Every Behavior? retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • The Whole Dog Journal, Common Training Mistakes, retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • Learning and Behavior: Active Learning Edition (PSY 361 Learning) 6th Edition, by Paul Chance, Cengage Learning; 6 edition (February 22, 2008)

 

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What Does it Mean When a Border Collie Gives Eye?

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Wondering what “giving eye” means when it comes to border collies? In the world of dogs, there are many breeds selectively bred to perform several tasks. We have dogs bred for hunting, dogs bred for retrieving, dogs bred for guarding and even dogs bred for providing companionship and with a history of warming up the laps (lap dogs) and feet of aristocratic ladies. Border collies were  selectively bred for herding, something these dogs do very well, hence why they’re often referred to as “the workaholics of the canine world.” In this breed, “giving eye” is something that is much appreciated by the shepherds, but can you guess what it exactly means for a border collie to give eye? So today’s Trivia question is:

What does it mean when a border collie is “giving eye?”

A The border collie is staring at the sheep so to control motion

B The border collie is making eye contact with the shepherd as he eagerly waits further instructions

C The border collie is giving a mean, hard stare to the other dogs he’s working with

D The border collie is keeping an eye on the flock making sure no wolves attack the sheep

The correct answer is: drum roll please….

 

drum

 

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The correct answer is: A, The border collie is staring at the sheep so to control motion

border collieA Matter of Herding Style

Different herding dog breeds have different herding styles when it comes to moving sheep or cattle from one area to another. These variances may have originated because of the different needs of the shepherd or perhaps the different set-ups found in a particular agricultural region.

We therefore have herding dogs who run and bark, herding dogs who nip at heels and even herding dogs who walk on the backs of sheep.  When it comes to the herding style of border collies, their style is quite unique. Border collies will stare intently at the sheep, “giving them eye.” What does the border collie accomplish from giving eye to the sheep? A whole lot we should say, considering this breed’s eagerness to get the the job done.

A Look Back in Time

border collie herding

A border collie’s herding style is reminiscent of the past when a dog’s ancestors were hunting. Back in the old days, in order to enjoy a meal, it was necessary to follow a precise sequence which is known as  the predatory sequence. This sequence entailed giving eye, stalking, chasing, catching, killing, and of course, eating. Catching, killing and eating is something that is out of question nowadays as herding dogs should never hurt their sheep. Fortunately, for the most part, it appears that a herding dog’s predatory sequences has been “truncated.” In other words, it has been cut short.

So border collies will give eye, stalk, and chase and some may occasionally nip too particularly when dealing with stubborn sheep, but fortunately not very hard. However, it’s  generally quite frowned upon for a herding dog to show the grab/bite behavior typically seen in cattle heelers and some consider it a major fault.

“If you’ve ever seen a Border Collie herding sheep, you’ve watched a predator in action. “~ Jolanta Benal

giving eyeAn Eye for Herding

The border collie breed gains its name from the border between Scotland and England where this dog was considered a valuable asset, courtesy of his almost inborn aptitude to follow the shepherd’s requests and his signature stare, the “eye,” with which this breed controls the flock. When border collies give eyes, they are orienting towards the sheep in a stalking position.

According to James Serpell, author of the book “The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People” this giving eye behavior seems to act as a reward on its own and once it’s present, the only way to stop it is to remove the dog from the stimulus contributing to the behavior.

 

“It’s impossible to even to try to herd sheep with a pup until it shows eye. What a border collie handler does is to train the dog when and how to go in order to use the eye. But nobody can train a dog to show eye or to point.”~Raymond Coppinger, Lorna Coppinger

Movement is a Triggerstalk dog

What triggers a border collie to give eye? Experiments at Hampshire College showed that the eye giving behavior in border collies was in part stimulated by the anticipation of movement. Indeed, when the border collies were introduced to a group of sedated chicken which were pretty much motionless (poor poultry!), they were not giving eye. Instead, they were carrying out all sorts of displacement behaviors such as barking at the birds or play-bowing. However, giving eye behaviors  promptly seemed to resume once the border collies detected movement (Coppinger et al, 1987)

How does the “giving eye” behavior get the sheep under control? It seems that sheep respond to it naturally because it mimics the intensity of posture seen in a wolf stalking its prey. It’s sort of a way to “exert psychological pressure,” so to say. John Holmes in the book “The Farmer’s Dog,” makes quite an interesting observation. He claims that the “eye ” is more an attitude of approach than something connected with the dog’s eye. Talk about the art of giving eye!

“A Border Collie moves livestock by controlled intimidation. He pushes them along with a threatening glare. This glare is called ‘eye’ and is probably related to the wolves’ tactic of selecting a victim in the herd by catching its eye… before starting the attack run.”~Donald McCaig

idea tipDid you know? When it comes to the amount of “eye” a dog has, dogs can be classified as having strong, medium or loose-eyes.

Border Collie At Work Using Eye

 

References:

  • The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People, By James Serpell, Cambridge University Press; 1 edition (January 26, 1996)
  • Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior and Evolution, By Raymond Coppinger, Lorna Coppinger, University Of Chicago Press; 1 edition (October 1, 2002)
  • The Farmer’s Dog, John Holmes, Popular Dogs Publishing; 10Rev Ed edition (1991)

Photo Credits:

The Border Collie uses a direct stare at sheep, known as “the eye”, to intimidate while herding, by C. MacMillan – Original Work, CC BY 2.5

Border Collie herding by Jean-Michel Castelan/Design Madeleine – Collection privée CC BY-SA 3.0


I am Your Dog’s Radial Nerve

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Just as in people, the dog’s body is innervated by several branches of  nerves that relay information from the brain and spinal cord to several parts of the body and organs. There are several nerves originating from the dog’s spinal cord which branch off into several ramifications made of individual nerves that supply the dog’s front legs. The radial nerve in particular, is a nerve that can be predisposed to several problems such as dogs having trouble moving their front legs and possibly developing muscle wasting. This is another good reason to see the vet when a dog starts limping for no obvious reason.

dog radial nerveIntroducing the Dog’s Radial Nerve

Hello, it’s your dog’s radial nerve talking! Before introducing myself, I want to give out a little lesson in canine anatomy so that you can better understand my role. You see, just like you, your dog is blessed with a nervous system that’s composed by the brain and spinal cord. The brain is your dog’s command central, while the spinal cord, and its associated nerves, work as a pathway for all those messages being relayed from the dog’s  brain to his body and vice versa.

Your dog’s brachial plexus is a network of of cervical (neck) and thoracic (thorax) nerves originating from the spinal cord and then branching off into singular nerves that reach the dog’s front legs.

The brachial plexus is composed by three nerves: me (the radial nerve) and my neighboring median nerve and ulnar nerve. I basically, innervate your dog’s front legs  from the elbow all the way down to your’s dog’s wrist and toes. I  don’t want to sound like I am bragging, but I am basically, the biggest nerve of your dog’s front leg. Can you guess how I got my name? I am known as radial nerve for the simple fact that I run right by your dog’s radius bone, the main weight-supporting bone of your dog’s forelimb.

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I Help With Movement and Sensation

Not many people are aware of me, but I sure do a whole lot to help your dog move about all day. I provide motor innervation to your dog’s muscles in the front leg allowing your dog to romp around every time he wants to and also provide sensory innervation to the skin, in particular to the upper-outside surface of the dog’s front leg and the upper surface of the dog’s paw. When all goes well with me and I am all in one piece, your dog is capable of moving around, having reflexes and feeling sensations. Problems start though when something goes wrong with me.

Did you know? Dogs tend to carry the majority of their weight in the front legs. If we were to look at proportions when it comes to weight distribution in dogs, we could expect 60 percent of weight to be carried in the front legs and the remaining 40 percent in the back legs.

When Things Go Wrong dog pain goes away at the vet

As with other body parts, I can be prone to traumatic injury such as seen with a fall or car accident. I am one of the most common areas to be subjected to nerve injuries. If the impact is strong enough or if the dog’s foreleg is hyperextended away from the body, it may cause the nervous tissue of the brachial plexus to stretch and even forcibly detach from the spinal cord (what is known as brachial plexus avulsion), which affects my functionality just like an electric cord that is fraying or splitting in half.

When this happens, affected dogs may suffer from weakness and loss of muscle use and sensation below the elbow which can lead to toe dragging when walking and since the elbow can’t be extended inability to bear weight. The use of special boots or socks may be needed in dogs with radial nerve injury to prevent injury to their paws.

In some other cases, a tumor such as a nerve sheath tumor or a tumor of neighboring tissue (fibrosarcoma, myosarcoma), on or around the brachial plexus, can affect me leading to problems with the dog’s forelimbs. As soon as dog owners notice any problems such as loss of sensation, weakness or paralysis, it’s important to see veterinary care immediately because muscle mass can be lost quite quickly considering that us nerves time time to regenerate. Seeing a veterinarian specializing in neurology is recommended. Physical therapy using passive range of motion exercises is important so to provide blood flow to the dog’s muscles preventing them from atrophying.

Unfortunately, when us nerves sustain an injury either because of trauma or presence of a tumor, we take quite a while to heal. Need a general idea? Consider that according to Pet Education, nerve fibers generally heal at the rate of 1 mm a day (that’s about 1 inch per month!). Prognosis depends on the extent of injury affecting me. I might lose function temporarily recovering within a few days or I might take weeks or even months to recover and in severe cases  I may sometimes never recover. In the meanwhile as I start to repair myself, I can cause a pins and needles sensation (paraesthesia) that dogs may find hard to accept. Affected dogs may therefore lick and chew on the affected leg, and since they cannot feel pain, if not monitored, they may cause substantial damage.

“Nerve injuries are very mysterious. It can be very difficult to predict if function will return after injury.”~ Dr. Foster and Smith

As seen, I am an important nerve that allows your dog to move and feel sensations. Without me, dogs would not be able to walk and use their front legs to bear weight. So make sure you keep your dog safe and off the roads, so to prevent me from getting injured, and if you notice any problems with your dog’s front legs, please see your vet promptly, that means sooner than later as time is of the essence with these type of injuries. I hoped this helped understand me better!

Best regards,

Your Dog’s Radial NerveDog Pawprint

 

References:

  • Pet Education, Radial Nerve Paralysis in Dogs and Cats, retrieved from the web on August 8th, 2016
  • Dr Fosters and Smith, Dog Neurological Disorders: Radial Nerve Paralysis, retrieved from the web on August 8th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Anterior view of right brachial plexus. Illustration. Modified by Mattopaedia on 02-Jan-2006 from the 1918 Edition of Gray’s Anatomy. Public Domain

 

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Help, My Dog Keeps Sniffing on Walks

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“Help, my dog keeps on sniffing everything on walks and I don’t know how to stop him.” If this sounds quite familiar, rest assured you are not alone. Countless dogs love sniffing while walking and with that powerful sniffer, who can blame them? Sniffing is totally normal behavior in dogs, not sniffing is actually what is abnormal. Of course though, walking a dog who pulls to sniff every single bush, every single fire hydrant and every single lamppost can get old over time and quite frustrating.  Since stopping your dog from sniffing altogether is unrealistic and you don’t want to end up with your arm coming out of its socket, the best way to deal with this problem is to find a compromise.

dog pull to sniffSniffing is Rewarding 

Before approaching the problem of dogs who pull to sniff when they are walking on leash, it’s important to realize how rewarding it is for a dog to sniff. When we go out on a walk, we mostly pay attention to the world around us by looking around. We may notice our neighbor’s new flowers, a home being remodeled or a person working on a car. Dogs instead tend to live in an olfactory world. It’s natural for dogs to want to investigate their surroundings and the best way to do this is through their almighty nose. Asking a dog to never stop to sniff on walks is somewhat comparable to asking a person to go for a stroll blindfolded.

Dogs who urine mark on car tires, bushes and lampposts are leaving their pee-mail, basically special social “tweets” under the form of chemical messages known as “pheromones” which are purposely left behind for other dogs to sniff. When your dog goes to sniff these areas, he is using his Jacobson organ, a special pouch-like structure found between the dog’s vomer and nasal bones  equipped with a special duct at the top of the dog’s roof of the mouth. A dog’s Jacobson organ is lined up with special olfactory receptor cells responsible for detecting chemical messages which are then relayed to important parts of the dog’s brain capable of generating emotional and behavioral responses. So this explains why dogs are so obsessed in sniffing and marking…

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“While we’re walking we spend a lot of energy looking around—enjoying the view and noting what has changed in the neighborhood. Dogs, on the other hand, primarily want to learn about the environment through olfaction.” ~Patricia McConnell

Tense Leash Means Stop

Capture

Dogs who pull on walks to sniff everything do so because it’s rewarding. If every time your dog pulls, he gets to sniff something, what has he learned? That pulling leads to rewards.  It’s just as simple as that (hint, opposition reflex plays a role here too). If every time you insert a coin into a vending machine you get a snack, your coin inserting behavior will persist. So getting acquainted with these dynamics is key to solving the pulling behavior. Starting today, the moment you notice your dog is starting to walk ahead of you to reach a bush he always sniffs, start slowing down, and then when your dog reaches the end of the leash, stop walking in your tracks. Turn into a statue cemented to the ground.

The first time you do this, your dog will likely be surprised. “Hey, what happened? Usually, every time I reach the end of the leash, I drag my owner a couple of steps and then get to sniff the bush.” Your dog may at this point, try pulling even harder, a phenomenon known as an”extinction burst. ” This is normal, just as you would try shaking a vending machine that doesn’t deliver your snack after inserting your coin, your dog may try pulling harder since it’s no longer working. Be patient, keep still and expect the first walks to take longer than usual, but don’t worry all your training will pay off soon!

 

lose leash means goLoose Leash Means Go

While stopping in your tracks teaches your dog that pulling no longer works, you want to train your dog what he needs to do instead. When you stop, call your dog to your side and reward him with some tasty food rewards. Then start walking and reward your dog for staying by your side every 3 steps, then, as your dog gets good at this, you can try every 6, and then at some point, you can start rewarding randomly (eg, every 3 steps, every 8, every 5, every 6).

Since you are passing by areas that have a strong history of reinforcement (fire hydrants, lamppost, bushes and other areas where pee-mail is often deposited) it’s important to make sticking by your side extra rewarding by investing in high-value treats. Make sure to make the area next to your leg your official “reward zone.” As your dog learns that on walks you are granting him his fair share of opportunities to sniff, you can then start fading the treats but keep giving them every now especially when you need to help him make good choices around distractions.

“Tight leash = brakes or red light, slack leash = accelerator or green light” ~ Jean Donaldson

Use the Premack Principle 

sniffing

We often think about food as a way to reward dogs for performing behavior we like, but sometimes  other types of rewards are right in front of our noses (and our dog’s noses too). Premack’s Principle states “more probable behaviors will reinforce less probable behaviors.” Also known as “Grandma’s Law,” it’s as if we were telling a child “you can have apple pie if you eat your broccoli first.”

What does this mean to our dogs? It means that, every now and then, we can reward a dog for walking nicely on the leash (broccoli) by allowing him to “go sniff” (apple pie).  After all, when we walk our dogs, don’t we do it for them mostly? Don’t they deserve a bit of sniffing time? By demanding them to never stop to sniff, or worse, correcting them every time they want to sniff by delivering a leash correction, makes dogs perceive us as a source of punishment and an obstacle preventing them from having a bit of innocent, free fun.

“Booooo.. who wants to stick by a person who delivers corrections and ends all the fun, what party poopers humans are!”

CaptureTeaching “Go Sniff”

Here’s when we can incorporate a “go sniff” cue and find a compromise on walks so that we both get to enjoy the perks that come along with all the stimuli associated with the great outdoors. Since dogs benefit from sniffing from time to time,(hey, sniffing is a tiring activity too, win-win!) here’s where the Premack Principle comes handy. Every now and then, when your dog is walking nicely by your side, walk towards an area that you’ll be using for your dog’s sniffing pleasure. Practice walking to this area on a loose leash. Make it a habit to say “go sniff” so that your dog understands that you are giving him permission to go on a sniffing adventure. This is  one of the easiest training cues you will ever train as most dogs know what to do when you let them approach a “pee-mail” area.

Make sure you give him a bit time and when he seems to be losing interest,  say “let’s go” praise, and continue on your walk. Or even better, if you have access to a fenced area where your dog can safely stay off leash and sniff to his heart’s content, walk towards this area, and when that leash is dangling in a nice slack “U” snap off the leash and say “go sniff.” Most dogs at some point get tired of sniffing, so once the novelty is gone, this is a good time to call your dog and reward him.

“The walk plus sniffing will help tire out the dog and make the walk more productive, but it will also allow the dog to check “pee-mail.”Use sniffing as a reward on the walk. “Walk politely on a leash to the fire hydrant and you’ll get to sniff it!”~Amber Walker

 

idea tipTip: for some dogs, the outdoors is very stimulating and if might be too difficult to implement this training in face of all the olfactory distractions. You may therefore want to start training loose leash walking in your home and yard first. Simply, put a leash on your dog and place a toy or a couple of kibble on the floor and practice walking by these temptations on a loose leash. Praise and reward, making sure you use treats that are higher in value that the item on the floor.

 

References:

  • Clicker Training, Go Ahead, Let Your Dog Sniff, retrieved from the web on August 7th, 2016
  • The Other End of the Leash, Take Your Dog on a Sniff, retrieved from the web on August 7th, 2016

 

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Dogs Have Different Types of Veterinary Specialists Too

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In the field of human medicine, it’s common practice for doctors to refer their patients to some type of specialists, and the same multi-tiered practice is now occurring in the veterinary field as there are now many different types of veterinary specialists for dogs to choose from. While your veterinarian is your go-to person when your dog needs a check-up or is feeling unwell, more and more veterinarians now turn their difficult and most challenging cases to veterinary specialists. When is it time for your dog to see a veterinary specialist, and most of all, who are these specialists and what do they do?

vetWhen to See A Veterinarian

Regular veterinarians undergo many years of training where they learn how to diagnose and treat several conditions and diseases affecting dogs, cats and possibly, other animals they specialize in (avian, exotics). Typically, a veterinarian will obtain an undergraduate degree at some University or College before entering veterinary school. Once in veterinary school, prospective veterinarians then undergo a 4-year program with several months spent being mentored by other vets. Veterinarians are recognized by the title DVM following their name which stands for Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. Veterinarians graduating from the University of Pennsylvania (Penn Vet) are recognized instead by the title VMD  which stands for Veterinary Medical Doctorate. 

Your veterinarian is the first place to go when your dog needs a check-up, sustains some type of injury or when your dog is feeling unwell. Veterinarians therefore act in a similar fashion as a family practice physician.

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Did you know? In medical circles there is a saying: “When you hear hoof beats, think horses, not zebras.” This saying comes from Dr. Theodore Woodward, professor at the University of Maryland School of Medicine who used it when instructing his medical interns. What this means is that, upon noticing symptoms, one must go for the most simple diagnosis. So if say, a dog is itching, the dog is most likely to do so because of allergies rather than some rare skin worm infestation. However, when things seem to get quite challenging, it’s often a sign that it time to see a specialist, who can be more familiar with seeing zebras, which may be less rare than thought as they get to see many complex cases.

“Although I agree with Dr. Woodward’s original premise, I have always felt it best to teach my students: “When you hear hoofbeats, think of horses, zebras and any other cloven-hoofed animal that might be responsible for the sound.”~John Lewis VMD, DAVCD

When to See a Veterinary SpecialistCapture

A veterinary specialist is a veterinarian who has completed additional years of training in a specifically chosen field that is not included in the average vet school. These additional years of intensive training include a a 2-3 year residency in choice of specialty which is followed by a rigorous credentialing process, which, when passed, leads to board-certification. When a veterinarian completes this rigorous training he becomes a “diplomat. ” On top of using the title DVM or VMD, these specialists have extra letters which informs about their area of specialty. For example, Emily Moeller, DVM, DACVO is a veterinarian (DVM) and  a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (DACVO).

When does a dog need to see a veterinary specialist? In most cases, veterinarians will  be the first to refer to one when they deal with complicated issues, but some dog owners can attest that it doesn’t always go this way. Sometimes vets may be reluctant to provide this option because they may assume that distance or financial reasons will discourage owners from pursuing such option or they may truthfully feel that they are treating the dog correctly. However, a dog who has had undergone several batteries of tests and who are not getting better despite repeated visits and treatments or a dog who needs a delicate type of surgery that requires a certain level of expertise, may benefit from a visit to a specialist. At some point, it may be necessary for the dog owner to step in and ask if seeing a specialist may be a good idea or the owners may decide seek a specialist on his own. Some specialists don’t require a referral, but they will need your dog’s medical history and records.

“With some exceptions, any time it takes more than three visits to solve a problem you should consider seeing a specialist to help suss it out. Sure, some issues are well-understood to require several follow-up visits (and your vet will usually tell you about this up front), but if you find yourself frustratingly fighting an increasingly difficult problem, it’s probably time to see a specialist.” Dr. Patty Khuly 

dog pain goes away at the vetKeep this List of Types of Veterinary Specialists Handy! 

Did you know? According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) there are currently 40 veterinary specialties and more than 11,000 veterinarians have attained the title as board- certified diplomats by veterinary specialty organizations.

If you think your dog may benefit from some specialized care, being aware about these specialists can help you out.

Here is a list of several veterinary specialties, their associated abbreviations and descriptions of what these areas of specialty may entail.

 

  • DACVAA or Dip. ACVAA

These are board-certified Diplomates of The American College of Veterinary Anesthesia and Analgesia (ACVAA). These veterinarians specialize in veterinary anesthesiology and pain management. Many of these specialists practice and teach in veterinary schools while others may work in hospitals or private specialty practices. Dogs who may benefit from seeing a veterinary anesthesiologist are dogs who are at a higher anesthetic risk either because of age, size or physical condition. Organs that require close attention when a dog is under are the dog’s brain, lungs, heart, kidney and liver. Veterinary anesthesiologists are specifically trained to monitor, recognize and care for any complications that may arise as a result of anesthesia.

  • DACVB or Dip. ACVB

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Behavior Specialists (ACVB). These veterinarians specialize in animal behavior including dogs, cats, horses and birds. What makes them stand out from the crowd? These specialists are able to diagnose and treat behavior problems in animals, whether stemming from a medical problem or being purely behavioral in nature.  Since they are also veterinarians, these specialists are also licensed to prescribe drugs that are meant to be used along with behavior modification. While veterinarians, dog trainers and behavior consultants may provide help for behavior problems, their expertise doesn’t generally reach the depth or breadth of that of a Veterinary Behaviorist. Aggression, anxiety, phobias, repetitive behaviors, inappropriate elimination and excessive vocalizations are just a few behavior problems these experts address.

  • DAVDC or Dip. AVDCTony Alter/Flickr)

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American Veterinary Dental College (AVDC). These veterinarians specialize in veterinary dentistry. These veterinarians have made dental care their area of specialty, and as such, they provide expertise in delicate or unusual dental procedures such as root canals, crowns and certain types of surgical procedures such as correcting a malocclusion, performing a complicated extraction or removing a dog’s oral tumor from the mouth.

  • DACVD or Dip. ACVD

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology (ACVD) These veterinarians specialize in veterinary dermatology and the treatment of skin, ear, hair, nail, hoof, and mouth disorders. There are countless skin conditions affecting dogs and things can get complicated at times. Veterinary dermatologists have what it takes to properly diagnose and treat skin diseases whether caused by bacteria, viruses, parasites or autoimmune conditions, hair loss, skin cancers, systemic disorders resulting in skin problems and more. These specialists have therefore made skin problems their area of specialty and since several skin problems in humans are similar to those found in animals, they also obtain training in comparative medicine along with training in internal medicine, immunology and allergy.

  • DACVO or Dip. ACVO

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (ACVO). These veterinarians specialize in veterinary ophthalmology. A veterinary ophthalmologist can work alongside your vet to diagnose and treat any eye disorders affecting your dog. Many eye disorders in dogs require prompt care and if they do not respond to initial therapy or if a dog’s vision is deteriorating, a specialist may be needed. Veterinarians specializing in eye disorders can provide helpful insights in complex cases. They have special diagnostic machines and can carry out some complex surgeries such as cataract surgery, cherry eye surgery or enucleation (eye removal).

  • DACVN or Dip. ACVN

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition (ACVN). These are veterinarians specializing in nutrition. A veterinary nutritionist can help you develop a customized diet for a dog, help market a specific product and tackle any conditions and disorders derived from a dietary problem. There’s no denial that nutrition plays a primary role in a dog’s state of health and veterinary nutritionists have what it takes to formulate commercial diets and supplements, home-made diets and help meet the nutritional needs of dogs of different ages, breeds and health statuses. You may find veterinary nutritionists working for vet schools,  dog food companies and veterinary companies, although some of them run their own businesses.

  • DACVR Dip. ACVR

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Radiology (ACVR). These are veterinarians specializing in veterinary radiology. It’s a known fact that there is currently a great expansion when it comes to veterinary diagnostic imaging and radiation therapy procedures. It can be quite difficult for regular veterinarians to keep up with all these advances in technology. Here comes the role of veterinary radiologists, specialists who use state-of-the art equipment and procedures meant to help in important diagnostics. Their practice is not limited to x-rays, these experts specialize in ultrasound, Ct scans, MRI’s, nuclear medicine and radiation oncology. A veterinary radiologist also can see things that can be missed by the regular vet, so consulting with them for image interpretation is a big plus.

  • DACVS or Dip. ACVS

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Surgeons (ACVS).  As their title implies, these are veterinarians specializing in surgery. While all vets learn how to perform various surgical procedures in vet school, sometimes dogs may need advanced care and procedures that are not routinely performed by the average vet. This is when veterinary surgeons are needed. These specialists can deal with complicated cases that require advanced procedures, specialized equipment and intensive monitoring when there are particular risks for the pet.

Veterinary surgeons may further specialize in certain types of surgery. There are therefore Dip. ACVS in Small Animal orthopedic surgery or DACVS (Small Animal Orthopedic Surgery) specializing in surgical procedures involving joints, ligaments, tendons and bones and Dip. ACVS in soft tissue surgery or DACVS (Soft Tissue Surgery) specializing in surgical procedures involving  non-bone tissues and tissues of internal organs.

  • DACT or Dip. ACT

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Theriogenologists (ACT). These are veterinarians specializing in reproduction. These specialists focus on the physiology and pathology of reproductive systems and obstetrics. Breeders may consult with these specialists when their breeding stock develops conditions or diseases affecting their ability to reproduce. Many veterinary theriogenologists mostly work with livestock, but some also work with small animals including dogs and specialize in their reproductive diseases.

  • DACVIM or Dip. ACVIM

These board-certified veterinarians are Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM). These are veterinarians specializing in internal medicine, which broadly encompasses the prevention, diagnosis, and treatment of several conditions and diseases.

Within this area of specialty are several sub-specialties such as Dip. ACVIM in Neurology or DACVIM (Neurology) veterinarians specializing in diseases of the brain, spinal cord and other nervous system disorders,  Dip. ACVIM in Oncology or DACVIM (Oncology),  veterinarians specializing in tumors and cancer, and Dip. ACVIM in Cardiology or DACVIM (cardiology), veterinarians specializing in the heart and circulatory system.

  • DACVECC or Dip. ACVECC

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care (ACVECC). As the name implies, these are specialists in emergency care when every seconds counts. If a dog is suffering from a life threatening disease, these specialists will closely monitor the pet in an intensive care unit until the animal recovers.  These specialists undergo intense training in emergency, surgery and critical care and are often found in an emergency practice or they may work alongside other vets in a hospital setting or they can be found teaching at a vet school. Dogs that may benefit from this this type of care include dogs sustaining traumas, dogs in shock needing a blood transfusion, dogs having trouble breathing, heart problems or neurological diseases.

DACVM or Dip. ACVM

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Microbiologists (ACVM). These specialists focus on Infectious Diseases.

DACVP or Dip ACVP

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Pathologists (ACVP). These specialists focus on how medications affect animals.

DACVPM or Dip. ACVPM

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Preventive Medicine (ACVPM). These specialists focus on  the detection, prevention, and control of diseases  that affect food, animals and the general public.

DACVSMR or Dip. ACVSMR

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation (ACVSMR). These veterinarians specialize in rehabilitating dogs and horses from sport-related injuries. With many dog sports around nowadays, this field is expanding.

DACVT or Dip. ACVT

These are board -certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Toxicology (ACVT). These veterinarians specialize in  how poisons and toxic products can affect animals.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice.

References:

  • Embrace Pet Insurance, Ten Ways to Know If Your Pet Needs a Veterinary Specialist, retrieved from the web on August 6th, 2016
  •  American Veterinary Medical Association, AVMA American Board of Veterinary Specialties, retrieved from the web on August 6th, 2016
  • Veterinary Practice News, Keeping An Eye Out For Zebras, retrieved from the web on August 6th, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Tony Alter, Clean Bill Of Health, (CC BY 2.0) Flickr, Creative Commons

 

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What’s Up With Siberian Huskies Escaping Their Yards?

by

 

“My Siberian husky escaped, can you help me find him?” This is a familiar plea of help that comes from many distraught Siberian husky owners looking for their lost best friends. Their hopes for finding their dogs materialize under the form of posters of their lost dogs affixed to electric poles, and announcements on newspapers and bulletin boards. Animal control officers are even quite familiar with seeing these “hairy Houdinis” roaming around in search of an adventure. So what’s up with all these huskies escaping from their homes and yards? Turns out, several husky rescues are well aware of this breed’s tendency, so much so that they are reluctant to adopt out unless perspective adopters meet certain fencing requirements.

runningA History as Nomads

By looking back at the history of the Siberian husky breed, it’s possible to pinpoint where the tendency to roam may stem from. Siberian huskies were selectively bred by the Chucki people, a tribe of Siberian nomads living in the tundra. Huskies back then provided a fast, economical transportation solution over the vast frozen lands, covering long distances while eating minimal amounts of food. When not transporting sleds over great distances, huskies were often utilized as soft beds for the tribal children. Despite being introduced into the United States in the early 1900s and no longer being utilized as sleds dogs, Siberian huskies still retain the many qualities that the Chucki people raved about.

Did you know? In 1925, a serious outbreak of diphtheria affected the city of Nome, Alaska. It is thanks to teams of huskies that vital supplies of the serum were delivered to this city.

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Runners at Heartrunning husky

With a history of pulling sleds for about 50 to 60 miles a day and traveling to new places, it’s no surprise that today, Siberian huskies have a strong desire to run and explore new places.

If we look at their bodies, we can see how they are built for the task. According to the American Kennel Club  breed standard, Siberian huskies are blessed with firm, well-developed muscles that allow a smooth, effortless gait which allows them the speed and endurance needed to travel over great distances.  And they do so very quickly! Their tough and thickly cushioned  paw pads also play a role in allowing power, speed and endurance in these light-footed fellows.

Did you know? A Siberian husky who escaped his home in 2012 on New Year’s Day, was found 7 weeks later but just a “mere” 300 miles away!

Gregarious Animalsgregarious husky

With a history of working along with other dogs and people every day in their native lands, Siberian huskies are born to be very gregarious animals. Because of this gregarious nature, huskies are often known for making poor guard dogs. If they meet an intruder, they might as well invite him over for a movie and some popcorn as if they just met a long, lost friend.

While loyal to those in his family, a husky has a tendency to remain friendly to everyone he meets. Of course, there are exceptions to the rule, but generally huskies are known for being good-natured with everyone and sociable with other dogs.

The truth is, Siberian huskies hate being left alone and they enjoy any opportunity that allows them to make new friends, even if this entails escaping from the yard!

“The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert and outgoing. He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog, nor is he overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs.” ~ American Kennel Club

  chasingStrong Prey Drive

Back in time, huskies were often sent off to fend for themselves and this sometimes meant they had to kill prey. Siberian huskies tend to have a strong prey drive and will want to chase fleeing animals such as squirrels, cats, small rabbits and possums. In some cases, they may even manage to kill small furry, fleeing animals. given the opportunity.

Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule and many husky owners can attest that their huskies live happily with their cats. When raised with cats from a young age, huskies tend to be more accepting, but this may not apply to fleeing cats on the roads. It’s important to realize that predatory drive has nothing to do with aggression. Just like a cat chasing and killing mice isn’t considered aggressive, a husky killing small critters shouldn’t be either.

“Prey drive is simply an innate hunting behavior learned over many hundreds of generations in harsh arctic conditions, where Siberian Huskies were often kept on a lean existence. This was especially so over summer when the Siberian tribes had no use of sled dogs and often turned them loose to hunt for themselves.” ~Siberian Husky Club of Victoria Inc.

diggingDiggers at Heart

Huskies, have a strong desire to dig, and that may also stem back again from their history as sled dogs in their native lands. When it was time to rest in the tundra, huskies would dig up a burrow so to sleep in it and keep warm, resting in their signature nose-to-tail sleeping position.

While huskies may not always dig to keep warm, the activity remains quite enjoyable especially when they unearth interesting things like a buried treasure such as a forgotten toy or bone, the roots of a plant or the tunnel of some wild animal.

Siberian huskies may also dig a hole to keep cool in the dog days of summer, but in some cases, when the digging is focused by the fence lines, consider that your husky may be digging to escape!

“Smarty Pants Dogs “smart

When it comes to being smart, Siberian huskies are blessed with great brains. This was often demonstrated in the past when they exhibited and continue to exhibit what is known as “intelligent disobedience” upon pulling sleds. At some time, their drivers may be telling their sled dog to go forward, but what if there is a hazard ahead? Will the husky be smart enough to say :” No way, I am not going to fall in this crevice or walk onto thin ice!” The answer is a good Siberian husky must be able to that, and this husky’s strong will is sure a godsend, explains Matulich in the book “Siberian Husky.” This breed has therefore  proven to be smart enough to make decisions on his own, even if it entails disobeying the driver.

So when it comes to being smart, these dogs can use their great brains in many circumstances, but that also involves bad projects such troubleshooting  problems for planning an escape.

Putting it all Togetherfence

So what happens when you have a dog with a nomadic history, who loves to run, enjoys the company of people and dogs, has a strong prey drive and is very intelligent? Sure, we can attribute all of the above to many other dogs. After all, what dog doesn’t love to dig, chase animals and be in company of other dogs? However, in Siberian huskies these traits may be a tad bit more pronounced, so when you add their free spirit, determinism, intelligence  and zest for life you have the perfect recipe for an escape artist dog. So what can be done to prevent Siberian huskies from escaping? Here are a few tips:

  • Have your husky microchipped. Consider that ID tags can easily fall off such as when snagged on a branch or fencing.
  • Provide plenty of outdoor time to drain excess energy. Don’t forget about adding environmental enrichment ,  playing games and engaging in fun reward-based training to make staying at home with you attractive. Huskies who are bored or under-stimulated are more likely to escape.
  • Train your Siberian husky to come when called and make sure to make it always super fun and rewarding! When your husky comes to you, don’t just snap on the leash and relegate him to the yard again. Play a game, go for a walk, so that he knows that coming to you is worth it!
  • Keep your Siberian Husky away from animals he may feel like chasing when alone in the yard.
  • Avoid underground electric fences. These won’t stop a strong willed husky and they can cause behavior issues in the long term.
  • Look at a fence from a Siberian husky’s perspective. Basically, think like a husky. Can your husky jump over it, dig under it, wriggle under the gate or squeeze through it?
  • Generally, the accepted height for fence meant to contain a husky is about 6 feet and should not have anything that can be used as paw holds. Don’t forget to have concrete at the perimeter base so to prevent digging under and make sure there are no gaps in gates too.
  • Never punish your husky for escaping, no matter how frustrated you feel. Your husky will think he’s being punished for coming to you rather than escaping and next time this he’ll be running away when called or whenever you try to approach him.
  • If your husky has a habit of bolting out of the door, keep him secured in a closed room when you’re heading out.
  • If your husky tends to slip out of collars when walking, consider trying a martingale collar.

 

References:

  • A New Owner’s Guide to Siberian Huskies, By Linda Forshaw, Hyperink 2012
  • Siberian Husky, edited by Dog Fancy Magazine,  Kennel Club Books (November 2, 2010)
  • Siberian Husky: A Comprehensive Guide to Owning and Caring for Your Dog, By Lorna Winslette, Kennel Club Books; Revised edition (August 16, 2011)
  • Siberian Husky Club of Victoria Inc, Prey Drive, retrieved from the web on August 5th, 2016