Adrienne Farricelli, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

Dog Word of the Day: Back Chaining

December 9, 2016August 24, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Let’s face it: dogs are quite talented when it comes to chaining one event with another. You place your hand on the handle that opens the wardrobe and your dog’s antennas are up, and next you know, he comes running to you as he already has guessed what your next move is. Yes, your dog has learned that most of the time when you open that wardrobe, you’re getting your jacket, and next, you’ll grab the leash and take your dog on a walk. And if you’re wondering, no, your dog is not telepathic, he’s just amazing in paying attention to what you do. Dogs with separation anxiety, know all the routine too well, they chain up all those different pre-departure cues such as brushing your hair, putting on your shoes and grabbing the car keys with you leaving the house. So since dogs are blessed with such an uncanny ability to chain one event with another why not put it to good work?

Forward and Back

When dogs are first introduced to the ABC’S of dog training, they are taught to perform simple, single behaviors such as sit, down and come. In more advanced training, dogs can be taught to chain together several single behaviors.

There are two ways dogs can be trained to chain behaviors: one of them is forward chaining and the other one is back chaining. In forward chaining, the dog learns to chain a series of behaviors starting from the first behavior first and then progressing towards the last in an orderly fashion.

Basically, the behaviors are taught in the exact order they are carried out once the training is complete. So if say, we wanted to train a dog to grab a toy and then place it in a basket, we would follow this sequence: 1) train the dog to go to the toy 2) train the dog to pick up the toy, 3) train the dog to carry the toy towards the box, and then, finally 3) drop the toy in the box. While this method can work well, dogs seem to be respond with less enthusiasm when compared to back chaining.

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In back chaining, the dog is taught the last behavior of the chain first, then the behavior before that, moving in a backwards fashion. So back to training a dog to place a toy in a basket, one would therefore start by training the dog to drop the toy in the basket, and every time the toy is dropped in the basket, the dog is rewarded.

This is repeated several times so the action of dropping the toy in the basket has a strong history of reinforcement and the dog performs the behavior reliably. Then, the dog is trained to walk towards the basket and drop the toy in it and is rewarded, and so forth until the whole sequence is completed.

Advantages for Dogs

What’s the advantage of using back chaining to train dogs? There are several advantages. Firstly, it may feel less overwhelming for the dog learning the behavior in small steps as it’s easier to assimilate and these small incremental successes can help instill more confidence in the dog.

As the dog progresses through the steps, anticipation builds due to the eagerness to complete the final one for the well-deserved reward. Just like a child who visits grandma and eagerly eats the four-course meal just to eat the sundae with the cherry on top, the dog eagerly progresses through the whole sequence of behaviors.

Bach chaining therefore comes very useful when you are training your dog to perform a series of complex behaviors such as seen in the sport of Canine Musical Freestyle, agility, trick training or as seen in the performance of several service-dog related tasks.

Did you know? When using back chaining, since you are building on the final behavior of the chain, you don’t need to reward your dog for every single behavior you insert into the front end of the chain, just the final part.

Applied by Teachers

Back chaining works so well that many teachers apply it when teaching children how to pronounce polysyllabic words. For instance, to teach a child how to pronounce the word “hippopotamus” the teacher may start by pronouncing the last syllable, in this case “mus” allowing the child to repeat after her. Next, she would add the prior syllable and would therefore pronounce “a-mus” then, “pot-a-mus,” then “po-pot-a-mus” and then finally the whole word “hippopotamus.”

Even music teachers find it advantageous to use back chaining to teach their students how to put notes together and play a nice piano piece. They’ll therefore focus on teaching the last part first, then they’ll link the second to the last piece and so forth up until the whole piece is played. When the piece is finally played, the musician feels relief from ending the performance and his performance is often further reinforced by the teacher’s praise or people clapping their hands if playing in front of an audience. But there’s more to that from a chemical standpoint, according to the quote below.

“Recent research shows that there is a release of endorphins when the musician reaches the end of the piece… Endorphins are our “treats” at the end of our “tricks”.~Larry McDonald, guitar teacher

Things to be Aware of

While quite effective, there are several things one should be aware of when using back chaining as a training method. For example, in long chains, the performance may become sloppy at times and the dog may start skipping some behaviors so to get to the final chain of the behavior, the one that is strongly reinforced. What should one do with such a smarty pants dog?

Should this happen, it’s important to not reward as you don’t want to reinforce a sloppy performance that’s missing parts! So take a step back and recognize the “weakest link,” the behavior in the chain that your dog doesn’t perform too well. You can have the dog try again or you can otherwise take this behavior temporarily out of the chain and work on strengthening it separately. Once it’s fluent enough, you can then re-introduce it into the chain.

“The procedure of breaking a task into small steps to facilitate training is called task analysis. A task analysis identifies the stimulus and response for each step of the chain.”~Mary Burch, Jon Bailey

References:

How dogs learn, by Mary Burch, Jon Bailey, Howell Book House; 1 edition (May 1, 1999)
The Science and Technology of Dog Training Paperback – June 1, 2014, by James O’Heare, Dogwise Publishing (June 1, 2014)

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What Dog Breed is Known for Missing Teeth?

August 23, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Most dogs have 42 permanent teeth with 20 teeth on the upper jaw and 22 on the bottom jaw. To be precise, the dog’s upper jaw has two canines, six incisors, eight premolars and four molars, while the lower jaw has two canines, six incisors, eight premolars and six molars. In some dogs though, there may be variations, and in particular there is a dog breed that is known for missing teeth. So today’s trivia question is:

What dog breeds is known for missing teeth?

A The Mexican hairless dog

B The German shepherd

C The Rottweiler

D The great dane

The correct answer is: drum roll please…

drum

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The correct answer is A, the Mexican hairless dog.

The Missing Teeth

The technical term for a dog who is missing a few teeth (usually between one and five) is “hypodontia.” Generally, hypodontia is quite common in small dog breeds and the teeth that are more commonly missing are the premolars, especially the first and the second ones, the incisors and the mandibular third molars, explains Brook Niemiec a board-certified veterinarian specializing in veterinary dentistry.

In some cases, the premolars may be missing in some large dog breeds too but in those cases (unless they are missing because of an accident,) a lack of teeth is often considered a serious fault.

The Mexican hairless, also known as xoloitzcuintli is a breed that is often missing teeth, however, not all specimens miss them.

The Xolo’s Teeth

According to the American Kennel Club’s standard for the xoloitzcuintli breed, this dog’s teeth must meet in a scissor bite. In the hairless variety, the absence of premolars is acceptable, and while a complete set of incisors is preferred, missing incisors are not considered a fault to be penalized. This is considered normal for this dog, and the missing teeth do not interfere with the dog’s ability to eat. On the other hand, the coated variety of this breed is required instead to have a complete set of teeth.

A Matter of Genes

One may wonder at this point, why does the hairless variety have a tendency to miss teeth while the coated variety does not? It appears to be a matter of genes. There are two types of genetic hairlessness in dogs: dominant and recessive. The Mexican hairless has a dominant gene for hairlessness which means that this breed has a genetic disposition to pass down the lack of hair to their offspring. Dental, skin or other health conditions are often associated with the dominant gene for hairlessness and this includes the missing teeth in the hairless variety. Because the coated variety doesn’t have the dominant hairless gene, it’s therefore not affected and boasts a complete set of teeth.

Did you know? The Xolo’s unique dentition, with its lack of premolars has made the remains of this breed easy to identify at archaeological sites.

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Mariposa Veterinary Wellness Center in Lenexa, KS, Periodontal disease apparent only in dental xray-Luce Mae, CCBY2.0
Mexican hairless dog Alfredo&Sara Aguirre – originally posted to Flickr as Behold: The Xoloitzcuintle. CCYBY2.0

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I am Your Dog’s Tongue

September 4, 2016August 22, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Almost everybody is familiar with a dog’s tongue, whether it’s hanging out of the mouth of a dog on a hot summer day or being used to vigorously lick the owner in a greeting, this organ is sure to play a conspicuous role in a dog’s life and the life of the people living with the dog. Yet, there are so many things to discover about a dog’s tongue such as the tasks a dog’s tongue is responsible for, the various anatomical parts of the tongue, the number of taste buds populating it and much, much more! So today, let’s have the dog’s tongue do the talking and tell us his fascinating story.

Introducing Your Dog’s Tongue

Hello, it’s your dog’s tongue talking! Yes, just for today I have been granted the ability to speak and I am honored to be on stage to talk about myself. I am sure you are already familiar with me, I’m that familiar muscular organ that is often seen hanging out from your dog’s mouth when he is hot or tired as after romping in the yard. I am usually kept nicely moist with doggy saliva and my color is normally pink, but in the dog world, there always seems to be some exception. Wanna know something really cool? The chow chow dog breed boasts a fascinating blue tongue that is out of this world!

People are often surprised when they learn that I am an organ, but since I am more than just tissue and am composed by bundles of muscles that are richly supplied with nerves and blood vessels, I think I deserve to keep this “title.” Wanna learn a bit about my anatomy? Well, my upper surface is known as “dorsum” and that groove you see in the center that divides me into two symmetrical halves is called the median sulcus. I am attached to the back of your dog’s mouth by the hyoid bone. While among humans, I mostly aid with chewing, swallowing and talking, in dogs, I carry out some other interesting functions.

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I House the Taste Buds

Ever wondered why your dog spits out those bitter pills with a disgusting look on his face? Well, I am home of the taste buds, special sensory organs that are scattered throughout my surface. Dogs are estimated to have about 1,700 taste buds, which is a mere number considering that on average, humans have about 10,000! Each taste bud is equipped with special taste receptor cells responsible for transmitting messages to the dog’s brain such as what he should or should not eat. It’s a known fact that dogs are capable of discerning between salt, sweet, sour and bitter. You see, generally, in nature, most bad bitter flavors, are a warning sign that an animal has likely encountered something that can be harmful or even poisonous, explains Stanley Coren.So no wonder why Rover spits out those nasty tasting pills!

But hey, here’s a dirty little secret: you can fool my taste buds by wrapping up those pills in a piece of low-sodium hot-dog or piece of cheese (ask your vet first as some medications don’t agree with cheese). If your dog is a smarty pants and still detects the pill, you can trick him by giving him a series of cheese or hot dog pieces without the pill in a row and then in the midst of all of these you can give the one with the pill. Chances are, your dog will be so eagerly eating, he won’t hardly even notice!

I am a Radiator

On top of allowing Rover to enjoy tasty meals and avoid the potentially harmful ones, I also play a big role in helping him cool down. You see, when your dog pants, he’s not just hanging me out to look silly. Dogs are not able to sweat in the same people do, so it’s my turn to take matters into my own hands. Since I am moistened by saliva produced by four pairs of salivary glands, when Rover sticks me out as he breathes heavily (like 300-400 breaths a minute!) I act like a radiator. Basically, along with the rest of the dog’s mouth and upper respiratory tract, I allow moisture to evaporate with the end result of cooling him down during those dog days of summer. Now, don’t I deserve a nice pat on my back?

I Work as a Ladle

Dogs don’t have the manual dexterity necessary to grab a cup full of water, bring it to the mouth and pour it down, so they rely on me when it’s time to drink. When dogs stick me out to get a drink of water, I curl up backwards and work as a ladle, collecting water and quickly bringing it in to the dog’s mouth. The dog then quickly bites down and then rinses and repeats the whole cycle until his thirst is finally quenched. So if you think your dog is messy drinker, don’t blame him, rather, blame me instead as my backward curl can cause some splashes! Now, watch me below to have a better idea on exactly what I do. Quite fascinating, huh?

Did you know? Other than detecting sweet, bitter, sour and salt, a dog’s taste buds are even capable of tasting water, something quite surprising, isn’t it! Now you know why your dog has a potty mouth. Read more about this here: Dogs have taste buds for water.

I am a Cleaning Device

When you get need to clean a wound, you can just walk to your medicine cabinet and grab some bandages and a disinfectant, while dogs are left with nothing more than their mouths. This is where I can come handy. Dogs may use me as cleaning device to remove dirt or debris from a wound, and while I am at it, I can even disinfect it a bit too. My tongue is kept humid with saliva, and that saliva is thought to contain some beneficial compounds capable of destroying the cell walls of gram-positive bacteria. But as with almost everything in life, moderation is key. Dogs can sometimes get too carried away with licking, and if they sue me too much, my abrasive surface can cause more harm than good. The result can be a moist, raw area, basically, what vets call an “acral lick granuloma.” This is why Rover is sometimes better off wearing that big satellite dish, also know as the “cone of shame.”

“Pets can get obsessed with licking to the detriment of healthy skin. There’s also a lot of bad bacteria in a pet’s mouth, so as with so many good things in life, licking is an activity best done in moderation.”~ Dr. Patty Khuly

Did you know? I also play a role in keeping a batch of newborn puppies clean and happy. Mother dog uses me to vigorously lick the pups clean and improve their circulation as they take their first gasps of air. Mother dogs also uses me to stimulate the pups to potty, something day-old pups cannot do yer on their own!

I Allow “Dog Talk”

In humans, I play a main role in allowing speech and proper pronunciation, but in dogs I can also “speak volumes,” but this time we’re talking about body language. Those tongue flicks your dog does every now and then may look casual, but there’s likely more to it if you pay attention to the context in which they’re happening. Patricia McConnell in her book ” For the Love of a Dog: Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best Friend” explains that those fast tongue flicks can be a sign of low level anxiety or an appeasement signal. So watch what’s going on when you see me in action. It could be your dog is nervous at the vet’s often, not comfortable with a pal he just met at the dog park or nervous about being pat on the head.

If you notice your best friend doing this, take notice of when it happens and then try to find ways to make your dog more comfortable in the future. Consider though that all tongue flicks in dogs don’t always stem from uneasiness or anxiety. You may also see me in action when your dog greets you walking towards you with the head lowered and tongue flicking as a friendly way to solicit attention. And of course, you’re likely familiar with me being used as a greeting tool when your dog submerges you with all those wet “doggy kisses” when you first come home.

Dogs like to lick our faces, a behavior that is disturbing for many dog owners and particularly non-dog owners. Yet, this behavior is a demonstration of friendliness, an attempt at pacifying us and themselves, a hand (though not literally) reaching for peace. It’s a compliment a dog gives you, “I like you, you can be my friend.” ~Roger Abrantes

I Help With Smells

Have you ever seen your dog chatter his teeth when he sniffs something interesting and perhaps even foam at the mouth? When dogs do this, they are basically gathering large scent molecules and with my help they are able to send them towards their incisiva papilla a behavior known as tonguing. These scent molecules then reach the dog’s vomeronasal organ and finally the dog’s brain possibly eliciting a behavior response such as marking over the sniffed area. Interesting stuff, huh?

When Things Go Wrong

You don’t hear about me much when it comes to medical diseases and conditions. Even though I am made of muscles, you never hear about me getting sore or a sprain as other muscles do. Something though that dog owners notice a lot is that I bleed a whole lot when I get accidentally cut. A bleeding tongue in dogs indeed can be quite scary at times! Using some ice on the area or offering a bowl of ice, cold water can help in such a case, suggests veterinarian Dr. Christian K. Keeping the dog calm and relaxed is also important as any increase in blood pressure can increase my bleeding. Of course, see your vet if the bleeding is pretty significant! Also, if I start bleeding for no reason, it’s important to see the vet, as there may be some bleeding lump, blister, ulcer or wart hiding somewhere in the dog’s mouth that needs to be checked out.

When I sustain any type of injury such as a bug bite, burn or cut, your dog will usually let yo know by drooling, smacking his lips a lot and sometimes being reluctant to eat. Glossitis is the term used for when I get inflamed and swollen and this can be triggered by several things such as a foreign body (think a burr or grass awn working its way into me), an allergic reaction, a fungal or bacterial infection or exposure to something toxic. Sometimes, immune diseases such as lupus, kidney disease and cancer can cause this too. At times, swelling right under me can be a ranula, a blocked salivary gland that causes saliva to collect under the tongue, explains veterinarian Dr. Kara. And yes, Hanging Tongue Syndrome is not what you see in those world’s ugliest dogs competitions, it’s actually a real medical problem. In this condition, trauma to the dog’s jaw or head can lead to nerve dysfunction which causes affected dogs to carry me abnormally.

As with checking a dog’s gums colors, my color can also be an indicator of health or trouble. I am normally pink in color (except some exceptions such as blue tongues in chow chows and dogs with spotted tongues ) so if you see me turn pale, red, bluish or a yellow/brown tint, please see your vet right away as this can be a sign of a dog not getting enough oxygen as seen in heart and respiratory diseases and internal bleeding, decreased profusion (less oxygen moving through body) or liver problems (jaundice) among other possible causes.

So I hope you enjoyed learning more about me today! As you can see, I can do a lot of talking! I won’t bite my tongue in saying that I play many important roles in your dog’s life, so make sure to take good care of me and keep an eye for signs of trouble. Your dog and I will thank you!

Best regards,

Your Dog’s Tongue

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If you notice any abnormalities in your dog’s tongue, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

References:

Krönert, H.; Pleschka, K. (January 1976). “Lingual blood flow and its hypothalamic control in the dog during panting”. Pflügers Archiv European Journal of Physiology. 367
For the Love of a Dog: Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best Friend, by Patricia McConnell, Ph.D Ballantine Books; 1 Reprint edition (July 22, 2009)
American Physical Society’s Division of Fluid Dynamics. “Fluid dynamics explain what happens when dogs drink water.” ScienceDaily. ScienceDaily, 25 November 2014.
Gart, Sean, et al. “Dogs lap using acceleration-driven open pumping.”Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences 112.52 (2015): 15798-15802.
Psychology Today, How Good Is Your Dog’s Sense of Taste?, by Stanley Coren, retrieved from the Wed on March 4th, 2016.
Ethology Institute Institute Cambridge, Why Do Dogs Like to Lick Our Faces?, by Roger Abrantes, retrieved from the Web on March 4th, 2016.
Just Answer, Dog has cut on tongue, bleeding steadily, retrieved from the web on August 22, 2016

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Why Does My Dog Urinate While Sleeping?

March 15, 2022August 21, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

If you thought children were the only ones who would engage in bed wetting, think again; a dog wetting the bed while sleeping is not an uncommon problem. Many dog owners assume that a dog who is urinating while sleeping is a dog who hasn’t been completely housebroken, but in reality, a dog with sleep incontinence is more likely to have a medical disorder rather than displaying a potty training problem. So if your dog is showing signs of sleep incontinence, skip the dog trainer and go straight to your vet so your dog can be checked out for possible underlying medical problems.

A Matter of Control

It may start with a little wet spot, than a trickle, and then next thing you notice your dog’s whole bed is drenched when he/she gets up from a nap, what’s happening? In order to understand the dynamics behind a dog urinating while sleeping, a little lesson in anatomy is needed.

A normal, healthy dog is equipped with a bladder which basically acts as a storage container meant to house urine.

In dogs and virtually all living creatures, urine keeps constantly accumulating at a steady rate. At a certain point, once the bladder fills up to its capacity, special stretch receptors in the bladder wall are activated, triggering muscle contractions of the bladder wall which create the urge for the dog to go to the door and bark to ask to be let out.

Thanks to the dog’s ability to control the sphincter around the neck of the bladder, the dog is able to “hold it” until the owner lets him/her out. Once the dog heads out and finds his/her favorite potty spot outside, the sphincter muscle is finally relaxed and the urine can finally flow out, giving the dog a much needed sense of relief. Problems start though when the sphincter muscle weakens for one reason or another, and the dog loses the ability to control the urine flow.

A Female Issue

A common cause of female dogs wetting their sleeping areas is what’s called “Primary sphincter mechanism incompetence“(PSMI) also known as hormone-responsive urinary incontinence”or “estrogen-responsive incontinence” or simply “spay incontinence. ”

According to a study, it was found that about 1 out of 5 female dogs are affected by this condition after they are spayed. Basically, what happens is that in female spayed dogs, their levels of estrogen lower and since estrogen is known for helping maintain good muscle tone of the sphincters, trouble soon erupts. As spayed dogs age, these muscles tend to weaken causing leakage of urine when they’re resting or sleeping, explains veterinarian Dr. Marie.

While middle-aged to senior dogs are mostly affected, sometimes it can also affect younger dogs. Fortunately, this type of problem can remedied using a veterinary prescription medication known as phenylpropanolamine (yeah, try to pronounce that!) which can help strengthen those weakened sphincters. For difficult cases, when this drug won’t help, DES (diethyl stilbesterol) estrogen can help prime the sphincter and provide relief, points out veterinarian Dr. Loretta.

A Male Issue Too

Male dogs can also have their set of urinary problems when it comes to bed wetting. Like in female dogs, neutered dogs may also develop a weakening of the bladder’s sphincter, however it is far more uncommon than in spayed female dogs.

Basically, what happens is that, as in the female dog, as the dog is relaxed, the sphincter relaxes too causing the annoying leakage. Upon getting up and walking, there still may be a bit of leakage as the sphincter may not have completely tightened up, explains veterinarian Dr. John.

As in female dogs, male dog incontinence can be treated with medications obtained from the vet.

“In the female, estrogen has a dramatic effect, giving strength to the muscular tissue of the bladder. In the male, testosterone has much the same effect. Anything that affects the levels of these hormones also affects the dog’s ability to retain his urine.” ~Dr. Marty Smith

Other Possible Problems

There are several other potential causes of urinary incontinence in dogs and these may include urinary tract infections, bladder stones, ectopic ureters and brain or spinal cord disease when communication between the nerves of the sphincter and the dog’s brains is disrupted. Also, any medical condition known for causing increased drinking and increased urination such as diabetes, kidney disease and Cushing’s disease may be a culprit (causing the bladder to fill too much and spill out) and so can certain medications (eg. corticosteroids). However, dogs affected by most of these conditions tend to dribble urine on several separate occasions during the day other than mostly during sleep.

Some Possible Complications

When dogs urinate during their sleep, they are not aware of it and therefore will be surprised when they wake up feeling wet. Many dogs will lick their private areas upon waking and feeling the area wet or moist, but prolonged contact with urine which is caustic can cause urine scalding resulting in red, raw skin and dirty, matted hair.

It’s good practice to check the area often and wash with a soft washcloth and tepid water. Veterinarians may recommend using special anti-inflammatory salves that contain antibiotics.

Also, since dogs with incontinence have lost a certain level of sphincter tone, it’s more easy for bacteria to make its way up the dog’s urinary tract and colonize the area causing an infection. For this reason, it’s a good idea to have the urine from a dog suffering from urinary incontinence checked twice a year for a possible infection, suggests veterinarian Weis DVM, a UC Davis Graduate.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is urinating while sleeping or while lying down, please see your vet for diagnosis and treatment,

References:

Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Ovariohysterectomy versus ovariectomy: is removal of the uterus necessary? Vol 239 No 11. December 1, 2011 pages 1409-1412
DVM360, Treatment of refractory urinary incontinence (Proceedings), retrieved from the web on August 21st, 2016
Pet Education, Urinary Incontinence in Dogs, retrieved from the web on August 21st, 2016

Sagging Skin Under a Dog’s Neck

March 15, 2022August 20, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Humans often complain about double chins and sagging skin, but dogs can also develop loose, sagging skin under the neck area, a’ la “Winston Churchill” style. While surgery neck lift for dogs has yet to be invented, it’s important to understand that in dogs, loose skin under the neck can have medical causes especially when it’s something new that the dog never showed signs of before. Sure, there are several dog breeds known for having sagging skin, but if your dog seems to suddenly develop loose skin under the neck, it’s best to schedule a vet visit just to play it safe.

Giving it a Name

Under normal conditions, certain breeds or types of dogs have some extra sagging skin under the lower jaw or neck area. This extra flap of skin in dogs is known as the “dewlap.” In some breeds this characteristic is part of the breed standard and is even desirable, while in some other breeds excessive “throatiness” is considered a fault. Sometimes, the condition of having excess skin is referred to as “wet neck.”

In these cases though, dogs have naturally loose, saggy or wrinkly skin that has been there for most of their lives. The following paragraph will list several dogs breeds who are naturally gifted with dewlaps.

A Matter of Breed

There are several dog breeds known for having sagging skin around the neck area. There are dogs with a slight dewlap and dogs with a very pronounced onr. The Neapolitan mastiff is known for having heavy wrinkles and folds that extend from the outside margin of the eyelids up to the dewlap.

The voluminous dewlap and skin folds are considered such a staple of the Neapolitan mastiff breed, that, according to the American Kennel Club standard, a lack of wrinkles and folds is means for disqualification.

Other dog breeds with a very pronounced dewlap includes the basset hound, the blood hound, English mastiff, English bulldog and Chinese shar-pei, just to name a few.

Labrador with tragic face — Labrador with “tragic face.”

Signs of Trouble

While sagging skin in a dog’s neck can be a normal part of anatomy, in some cases it can be a sign of a medical problem. For instance, hypothyroidism in dogs is known for causing what’s called “the tragic face of hypothyroid.” In these dogs the drooping skin of the chin, neck and face, gives them a sad look on their faces, explains Dr. Ralston. Other causes of what may look like sagging skin in the neck area are enlarged lymph glands or fluid leaking out of blood vessels, considering that the area under the dog’s neck is not an uncommon place for fluids to “hang out,” explains Dr. Elizabeth.

If there is a history of injury to the area (like from a dog bite or puncture wound) some dogs may develop a “knot” under the skin of the neck area due to the formation of an abscess (infected skin) or a seroma (collection of fluid under the skin). A vet can easily differentiate the two by performing a needle aspirate in the area and drawing some cells or fluid out, explains veterinarian Dr. Marie. Some dogs may also develop a salivary cyst, which may cause a large pocket of saliva to form under the jaw at the base of the neck. According to Pet Education, in some cases the salivary cyst can become so large that it fills the entire area below the jaw and may feel sort of like a balloon filled with honey.

Did you know? There’s belief that the sagging skin by the basset hound’s neck has a purpose: to trap scent amplifying this breed’s already powerful sense of smell.

Disclaimer: this article is not to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your notice sagging skin in your dog, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Photo Credits

The Mastiff has a distinctive head with dewlap and flews. The black mask is visible even on this brindle, by Pleple2000 – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0
Characteristic changes in the facial skin of a Labrador Retriever with hypothyroidism, self – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0

30 Fascinating Differences Between Wolves and Dogs

April 5, 2017August 19, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

A common question people ask is what is the difference between dogs and wolves? The answer is there are many differences and it is therefore wrong to assume that dogs are just wolves sharing our living rooms! Sure, dogs and wolves share 99.96 of their genes, and since they have the same amount of chromosomes (to be exact, 78 arranged in 39 pairs) this makes them capable of mating and even giving life to offspring; however, this 0.04 percent difference is enough to set wolves and dogs quite distinctly apart. Wolves and dogs are not only different from a physical standpoint but a behavioral one as well, not to mention differences in the ways they develop, form social bonds and reproduce. Following are 30 fascinating differences that sets dogs and wolves apart.

Physical Differences Between Wolves and Dogs

1) Variability/Uniformity. Sure, there are several dog breeds that look like wolves out there, namely Siberian huskies, Alaskan malamutes, German shepherds and many more, but Chihuahuas, beagles or a dachshunds are sure a far cry from looking like wolves! There’s no denial over the fact that dogs are the most varied species on earth coming in all sorts of shapes, colors and sizes, but wolves, on the other hand, are quite uniform when it comes to appearance.

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2) Dogs have a head that is smaller than wolves. Generally, a dog’s head is 20 percent smaller than the head of a wolf.

3) Dogs have smaller brains compared to wolves. It is estimated that wolves have a brain that is around 30 percent larger than the brain of a domesticate dog.

4) Dogs have smaller jaws compared to wolves. Wolves need strong jaws so they can to crush bones so to reach the soft marrow, which brings us to number 5…

5) Dogs have the same type of teeth as wolves and even the same number (42). Both wolves and dogs have 20 teeth in the upper jaw and 22 in the lower jaw. Dogs however have smaller teeth compared to the teeth of wolves.

6) Dogs not only have smaller teeth, but their bite forces are weaker. Wolves have phenomenal jaw strength that according to Barry Lopez in Of Wolves and Men has a “crushing pressure of about 1,500 (lbs/square inch) which is a whole lot if compared to the average 740 (lbs/square inch) crushing pressure of a German Shepherd.

7) Dogs tend to have eyes that come in several colors. We have dogs with brown eyes, blue eyes and even one eye of one color and one eye of another. Wolves tend to have eyes of various shades of yellow to amber, but never brown.

8) Dogs have a prominent stop, the indentation in the dog’s skull most prominent when the dog’s head is seen by profile. Wolves don’t have such a prominent stop; rather, their foreheads are pretty straight from head to nose.

Developmental Differences Between Dogs and Wolves

9) Generally, dogs are slower to develop compared to wolves. According to Alexandra Horowitz, puppies open their eyes around two or more weeks; whereas in wolves they open as early as 10 days.

10) Dogs enter the critical socialization period at four weeks, while wolves begin much earlier at two weeks. According to a study conducted by Kathryn Lord, wolf pups were found to be already walking and exploring at 2 weeks of age even though still blind and deaf; whereas, dog pups begin the socialization period at around 4 weeks when they already can see, hear and smell.

11) Dogs have a longer primary socialization period compared to wolves. This offers them the advantage of having more time to become accustomed to interactions with people and their surrounding environment.

12) Dogs unlike wolves retain juvenile characteristics even as they become adult (neoteny). These characteristics include large eyes, shorter muzzles, bulging craniums and floppy ears.

Behavior Differences between Dogs and Wolves

13) Dogs are domesticated and can be trained. Wolves can be somewhat trained, but they cannot become domesticated.

14) Other than retaining juvenile physical traits, dogs also retain juvenile behaviors compared to wolves. Dogs are prone to whining even as adults, while adult wolves seldom whine.

15) Dogs are predisposed to barking for various reasons, while adult wolves tend to seldom bark. Wolves though rely on many other forms of vocal communication and they use their signature howl for long-distance communication.

16) In dogs, play behavior is more exaggerated than in wolves and it’s retained into adulthood. While adult wolves may occasionally play, play behaviors in dogs are more easily stimulated.

17) When dogs are given a puzzle to solve, dogs will often look at their owners for guidance. Wolves on the other hand will try to solve the problem on their own.

Hunting Differences Between Dogs and Wolves

18) Coat color in dogs is very varied and their coat colors no longer play a main role for camouflaging in their surroundings. In wolves, coat color is still important for blending in their surroundings and it’s therefore limited to white, black, grey, to red and tawny brown.

19) In dogs, the predatory sequence in several breeds has been truncated which comes handy to the shepherd and hunter. Dogs may therefore eye, stalk, chase, but without killing and ingesting. Wolves need to go through the entire predatory sequence from start to finish instead in order to survive.

“Wolves kill prey, while dogs live in partnership with humans…”~Kathy Sdao

Reproductive Differences between Dogs and Wolves

20) Dogs were and continue to be selectively bred so to help suit humans purposes for work and companionship. Humans choose the best specimens to breed (hopefully!). Wolves reproduce through natural selection through Mother Nature’s “survival of the fittest.”

21) Domestication in dogs has ameliorated a female dog’s ability to reproduce. Living in the safety of a home and with the help of a breeder, litters of pups have a higher chance of surviving. Wolf pups instead must endure many challenges.

22) Dogs tend to reach sexual maturity around 6 to 9 months of age. Wolves instead reach sexual maturity around 18 to 24 months of age.

23) Female dogs (besides some exceptions) generally go in heat two times a year. Wolves go into heat only once a year.

24) Female dogs may go in heat at any time of the year. Wolves are seasonal breeders, going into heat in the spring so their offspring have time to develop and become stronger before winter.

25) Female dogs give birth in whelping boxes and their owners provide their puppies with “puppy mush” to help them transition into eating solid foods. Mother wolves build a den to raise the pups and will regurgitate their meals to help wean the pups.

Social Differences Between Dogs and Wolves

26) Most domesticated dogs live among humans nowadays, so they can be considered members of human social groups, explains Horowitz. Their social group include their human family, other dogs, and other pets living within the household. Wolves on the other hand, live in packs and their social group comprises the breeding pair, its offspring, and several relatives. “Wolves packs are families, not groups of peers vying for the top spot… They are not alpha dominants any more than a human parent is the alpha in the family, ” points out Horowitz.

27) Generally, dogs are accepting of other dogs and will continue to socialize for the rest of their lives, even though some dogs become more reserved during adolescence and some obvious exceptions. Wolves instead tend to form tight family units and are generally not accepting of stranger wolves.

Over time, we have adapted and designed dogs to fit us and our world, and it should be strongly emphasized that they are separate to and different from wolves. We do not look at the ape world to show us how to teach our children how they should behave…we must afford our dogs the same courtesy of treating them as the species they are, and not as wolves in dog’s clothing.”~Toni Shelbourne

Other Differences dog sit

28) Dogs now live into old age when living among humans. According to Egenvall and colleagues (2000) data from insured dogs has revealed that an estimated 65 percent of domesticated dog living in a household will still be alive after 10 years of age. Old wolves instead are quite a rarity in the wild.

29) Various tests conducted by Brian Hare revealed that puppies were spontaneously adept at reading human gestures, whereas wolves were not.

30) Dogs are generally good at adapting to changing situations; whereas wolves are wary and do not adapt well to novelty and this tendency carries on even when raised in captivity.

As seen, even though dogs and wolves are genetically similar, we must remember that there are at least fifteen thousand years (or many more) separating them and therefore dogs are a far cry from being the socialized wolves some people still tend to portray.

” We have enough science on dog behavior and the principles of learning that dog training should not be based on “what my daddy did” or some method arising from misinterpreted wolf behavior. Dogs are not wolves. They don’t act like wolves – and frankly we don’t want them to.” Lore I, Haug, DVM, MS, DACVB,

References:

Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know, By Alexandra Horowitz, Scribner; a edition (September 28, 2010)
Lord, K. (2013), A Comparison of the Sensory Development of Wolves (Canis lupus lupus) and Dogs (Canis lupus familiaris). Ethology, 119; 110-120
The truth about wolves and dogs, By Toni Shelbourne, Hubble & Hattie (November 20, 2012)
Dog Behaviour, Evolution, and Cognition, By Adam Miklosi, Oxford University Press; 1 edition (February 15, 2009)
The Genius of Dogs: Discovering the Unique Intelligence of Man’s Best Friend, By Brian Hare, Vanessa Woods Oneworld Publications (6 Feb. 2014)

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Keeping Your Dog in the Yard Due to Behavioral Problems? Give him Another Chance

August 20, 2016August 18, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Many dogs are kept outside in the yard all the time each and every day with little social interaction. If dogs could talk, we would likely hear a variety of reasons as to why they were relegated to their yard rather than spending quality time inside the home with their families. The reasons may be several ranging from allergies to hygiene or odors, but sadly in many cases, dogs are kept in the yard because they never really had an opportunity to learn how to be an inside dog or perhaps they were given the opportunity several times, but the dog just didn’t meet the owner’s expectations. Interestingly, a study provides an insight into the dynamics behind the effects of not meeting a dog’s minimum daily social interaction needs and how it can affect behavior.

Dogs are Social Animals

Dogs are social animals who crave companionship and have a strong desire to spend time with their families. When dogs are socially deprived, this can cause serious welfare implications. Human contact is so cherished among puppies and dogs that the timely implementation of social withdrawal as experienced during a brief time-out, works as punishment for dogs who crave social interactions with their favorite humans. Of course, the amount of social interaction needed with humans varies between a dog and another and there are several breed variances. Some dogs need more, while some others may be more on the independent side. This article is therefore mostly meant for those frustrated dog owners who wish to bring their dogs inside, but have relegated them to the yard due to behavior issues and the dogs are suffering the consequences, particularly lack of sufficient social interaction.

“Separation and isolation represent strong aversive events for puppies and dogs alike, forming the emotional basis for time-out procedures used in puppy training and behavior management.” ~Steven R. Lindsey

Idle Paws at Work

On top of lacking social interaction, dogs who are relegated to the yard have a strong need for exercise and mental stimulation. It’s often forgotten that dogs have a past history as natural scavengers/hunters who spent most of their days foraging in search of of food. On top of that, many dogs were selectively bred for performing tasks such as hunting, herding and retrieving.

With no way to get rid of pent-up energy and with little to do, dogs kept in the yard all day alone may therefore be forced to find their own forms of entertainment, but these hobbies won’t be appreciated by their owners. Idle paws are a devil’s workshop and dogs may therefore start digging, scratching, chewing and may also engage in incessant barking. Not to mention, aggressive displays targeted towards passersby.

“Chronic isolation situations can be very agitating. For example, long-term confinement to a backyard with a view of passers-by will often (and ironically) product aggressive displays in what would otherwise be a friendly dog.”~Jean Donaldson

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Double the Trouble

Getting another dog to keep the dog company in the yard may seem like a good solution to help make the dog less lonely, but many dogs still crave human interaction. In a study conducted by Meunier et al. in 2012, it was found that, given the choice, dogs chose interactions with humans over interactions with other dogs. Owners who therefore decide to get another dog in hopes of keeping the other dog company, should keep in mind that they may end up with two dogs with a strong desire to interact with humans and spend time in the home with them. Denying this access and/or not providing sufficient human interaction often results in two dogs who are bored, frustrated and likely to engage in undesirable behaviors such as barking and destructive behaviors.

The Indoor/Outdoor Conundrum

Many dogs who are relegated to the backyard have a history of bouncing off the walls, jumping on people, acting destructive and overall wrecking havoc in the home. Owners may therefore give up keeping the dog in the home or may try to give the dog a few chances before making a final decision. However, many times when dogs are brought inside after being out for a while, their behaviors will not meet the owner’s expectations which can lead to the dog being kept permanently in the doghouse. Yet, there’s an important phenomenon to be aware of before giving up on these dogs.

A study by Waller and Fuller in 1961 revealed that when puppies were brought up in semi-isolation their needs for social contact triggered excessive activity when they were put into a social situation. However, when kept with their litters, there was a 75 reduction in in the number of social contacts. This seems to suggest that dogs have a biological need for social interaction and when the need for a minimum amount of daily social interaction is not provided, they make up for it, compensating with excessive activity when placed in a social situation, suggests Nancy Kerns in the book “Whole Dog Journal Handbook of Dog and Puppy Care and Training.”

Waiting it Out

What does this mean for the dog owner? It’s suggestive that it might be worth it to wait it out rather than sending the dog out again the moment he misbehaves which will be ultimately adding more fuel to the fire causing the dog’s chances for becoming a house get dimmer and dimmer. Sure, the dog will likely act crazy in the home after being socially deprived and inadequately exercised for some time, but if you grit your teeth for a while, you may find that with time, you will up the chance for him to learn how to behave in the home. If your dog is a handful, and of course if he acts aggressively at any time, keep everyone safe and consult with a trainer or behavior professional.

When you feel things become unbearable, you can always invite your dog to the yard and engage him to play a structured game or you can use a baby gate and provide your dog with an interactive toy to keep busy while you carry on errands around the house. Of course, make sure to provide daily walks, training and opportunities for mental stimulation. And if you are away for a part of the day, it may be a good idea to hire a dog walker. As seen, as a general rule of thumb, most dogs prefer to stay inside the home with their families along with enjoying the many perks of the great indoors such as soft pillows, warmth and cool air in the summer.

“Dog’s physical, social and behavioural needs are very complex. Meeting these is hard, if not impossible, for dogs living outside. Therefore, we advise against keeping dogs outside. Instead of keeping your dog outside, ask someone to visit and walk them at least once each day.”~RSPCA

References:

Oh Behave!: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker, By Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing (April 1, 2008)
Whole Dog Journal Handbook of Dog and Puppy Care and Training, By Nancy Kerns, Lyons Press; 1 edition (December 1, 2007)
Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Adaptation and Learning, By Steven R. Lindsay, Iowa State University Press; Volume One edition (January 31, 2000)

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Dog Word of the Day: Muzzle Punch

November 29, 2016August 17, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Dogs are masters in communication when it comes to body language resorting to subtle signs such as a quick flick of the tongue to more evident ones such as an air snap or a muzzle punch. It’s important to take notice of these signs and learn what dogs may be communicating, so to understand what is triggering them in the first place and address the underlying emotional turmoils. Muzzle punches in dogs should be taken seriously as based on context they can sometimes be a warning of an impending future bite and therefore a professional should be consulted for safety.

Pack a Punch

As the name implies, a muzzle punch is when a dog purposely bumps into a person or other dog with his muzzle while the mouth is closed. The “punch” can range in intensity from a slight poke of the muzzle to a more forceful push. When dogs deliver a muzzle poke or punch they may target different body parts.

A muzzle punch can take place when the dog is jumping up towards the face of a person or it can be targeted towards a person when he or she bends down towards the dog perhaps to kiss or hug him.

If you have ever been muzzle punched by a dog, you likely know it as your nose of jaw may be hurting. Some people even develop nose bleeds.

According to Patricia McConnell, a muzzle punch may fall into several different categories: attention-seeking muzzle punches, playful muzzle punches, affectionate muzzle punches and warning muzzle punches.

As with several other behaviors in dogs, it’s important to look at the context in which muzzle punches occur and other accompanying postural signals so to better understand under what category this behavior may fall into.

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Punching In

A dog may playfully deliver a muzzle poke to the owner’s hand or back of the leg to elicit attention or as an invitation to play or seek affection. Muzzle pokes can also be directed to the shoulder of another dog as a way to test (in a rude way) whether the other dog is willing to play. In these cases, the muzzle pokes may be a distance-decreasing signal meaning that the dog wishes to decrease distance, get closer and interact. Below is a video of a dog who barks and repeatedly ‘muzzle pokes” another dog to get him to play. Or in other words he is “pestering the dog” to convince him/her interact.

Punching Out

Some muzzle punches can be a distance increasing signal meaning that the dog is trying to increase distance so to stop an interaction that isn’t welcomed. In this case, the muzzle punch can be a precursor to a bite. A dog may for example give a hard stare and then deliver a muzzle punch in the face when he’s chewing a bone as a warning to tell the person or dog to move away from his resource. Or as mentioned, it can take place when a person bends down as to loom over the dog to pet him or perhaps deliver a kiss or hug.

Below is a video of a dog who happens to muzzle punch a person who is kissing him/her. The person was very lucky not to get hurt. Notice the “pre-muzzle punch signs” consisting of whale eyes and the dog trying to turn the head away.

Muzzles and Muzzle Punches

Often, people assume that when dogs are kept on a muzzle they are completely safe to be around as they may not be able to bite. Yet, dogs can still cause injuries despite wearing a muzzle. A muzzle doesn’t prevent a dog from delivering a forceful muzzle punch which can injure a child or small dog, and on top of that, basket muzzles still allow fingers to make it through the openings. Sometimes, dogs even manage to remove them.

A muzzle is therefore not a tool meant to solve behavior problems and a dog wearing it is not supposed to be exposed to situations he’s not ready to deal with. A muzzle is meant to be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques as the dog progresses. As you can see in the video below, a dog can still potentially harm even when muzzled which can lead to potential injuries.

“Muzzling is not a guarantee of safety and caution should still be exercised when working with an aggressive dog. Dogs wearing a basket muzzle can still cause injury by performing a muzzle punch…” ~Debbie Martin

Did you know? A muzzle punch is classified as a level zero (along with air snapping without contact to the skin) on a Cara Shannon Dog to Human Bite Hierarchy. While level zero may seem low, it’s still suggestive of an intent to harm and should be taken seriously.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional behavioral advice. If your dog is muzzle punching or showing other signs of aggression, please consult with a behavior professional.

References:

Canine and Feline Behavior for Veterinary Technicians and Nurses, By Debbie Martin, Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (November 17, 2014)
Raising Canine, Cara Shannon Bite Hierarchy, retrieved from the web on August 17th, 2016
The Other End of the Leash, Muzzle Punches, Air Snaps and Tooth Clatters Revisited, retrieved from the web on August 17th, 2016

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What’s The Name of That Slit in a Dog’s Ears?

August 16, 2016August 16, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

dog ear fold If you ever carefully looked at your dog’s ears you might have noticed a fold of skin on the outer side of his ears. Many dog owners wonder about this anatomical feature. “What’s the slit on the side of my dog’s ear? What’s that extra flap doing on the edge of my dog’s ear?” Does that pocket on the outer edge of a dog’s ears have any particular function? To get an idea of exactly what skin fold in a dogs’ ears we are talking about we have attached a picture on the left.

Interestingly this extra fold of skin has a name, so today’s trivia question is: What’s the name of that double flap of skin on the edge of a dog’s ear?

A External pinna

B Rose ear fold

C Henry’s pocket

D Aural hematoma

The correct answer is: drum roll please….

drum

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The correct answer is C, Henry’s Pocket.

Also known as cutaneous marginal pouch, Henry’s Pocket is a fold of skin that forms an open pouch on the dog’s lower edge of the ear. This anatomical feature is particularly noticeable in cats, but it’s also quite visible in dogs especially those with little hair in their ears and dogs with erect ears.

A Possible Function

As of today, the function of this pocket remains unknown (Kumar 2005). There are however some theories that it must have something to do with helping dogs detect sound. The outer portion of a dog’s ear that is visible is known as pinna and it’s made of skin and cartilage. The pinna works as a funnel that helps the dog gather sounds that are then funneled to the ear canal where it travels to the ear drum. While some sound waves enter the ear drum directly, some other sound waves may bounce off the ear flap causing a slight delay before they impinge upon the dog’s ear drum. Sound waves that reach the dog’s Henry Pocket, are further delayed considering that they tend to bounce around that area. What does this possibly mean? It could mean that those slits on the edge of dog’s ears may play a role in attenuating lower pitches while helping the dog detect high-pitched sounds. But again, this is just an assumption! Some people believe instead that the fold is there to help the dog flatten his ears to protect them. Until research is conducted, we can only make guesses.

A Weak Spot

A dog’s cutaneous marginal pouch is a preferred location for vets to use for skin biopsies of the ear when needed to diagnose conditions such as pemphigus foliaceus or small vessel vasculitis. Because the Henry’s Pocket is a preferred site for ear mites or ticks to hide, it’s an area vets often check often upon physical examination of the dog. Also, being that this area is dark and often moist, it can attract bacteria and fungal infections. Vets may therefore sometimes get a swab sample from this area so to evaluate it microscopically.

References:

Lomond Hills Veterinary Clinic, Henry’s Pocket description, retrieved from the web in Aug 16th, 2016
August, John (2009). Consultations in Feline Internal Medicine, Volume 6. Elsevier Health Sciences

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative commons, tanakawho, Yokozuna, CCBY2.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Allan Henderson, Nahni Big Ears CCBY2.0

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I am Your Dog’s Pupil

August 15, 2016August 15, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

The saying “the eyes are the window to the soul” has a medical application as well. From a medical perspective we should also say “the eyes are the window to our health” considering the many notions we can deduce from simply looking into the eyes of another person or an animal. Because most dog eyes are brown, looking into the pupil may be a bit challenging at times, but it’s good to get acquainted with how those pupils look like normally so that we can identify signs of trouble promptly and refer to our veterinarians. So today, let’s learn more about a dog’s pupil, what it does, how it works and things to watch for.

Introducing Your Dog’s Pupil

Hello, it’s your dog’s pupil talking! Yes, to simply put it, I am that black circle that you find in the middle of your dog’s eye. Well, to tell you the truth, I am not really black. That’s just an optical illusion!

In reality, I am a black hole and appear black because I am an opening that allows light to enter your dog’s eye and the inside of the eye is generally dark. I can be of different shapes and sizes based on the species you are looking at. For instance, in goats and horses, I am oval, in cats I am a thin vertical slit, but in dogs and humans I tend to be round.

I am an Adjustable Opening

For sake of comparison, you can compare your dog’s eyes to a camera that takes pictures of the world and sends those images to your dog’s brain through the optic nerve. When it comes to me though, you can think of me as an adjustable opening. The iris (the colored part of the eye) acts as a camera’s shutter and basically regulates how much light should enter and reach me. The amount of light that reaches me therefore elicits the iris to change my size. When it’s dark, the iris muscle contracts so to enlarge me so to allow more light into the dog’s eye so he can see. When it’s bright instead, the iris muscle expands so to constrict me so to allow less light into the dog’s eye. My size is therefore controlled by two groups of smooth muscles of the dog’s iris: the iris sphincter muscle and the iris dilator muscle. These two muscle basically work in opposition. Pretty neat no?

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Did you know? The technical term for when I constrict is “miosis” (allowing less light in) whereas, the technical term for when I dilate is “mydriasis” (allowing more light in).

I Act as An “Eye-Opener”

On top of shrinking and dilating in response to light, I also react to certain stimuli and situations. For instance, if the dog sees something scary, I may dilate too. There’s yet no proof to back up why I do so, but experts theorize that it’s part of a survival tactic.

Basically, I dilate so to allow more light to enter the eyes so that the dog’s brain can process information quicker when every second counts. I therefore act as an “eye-opener” so to say, so to help the dog take in more visual information about his surroundings in such a critical time.

According to Scientific American, the autonomic nervous system responsible for the fight and flight response is what triggers me to dilate when under stress, whereas the parasympathetic system, responsible for “rest and digest” functions, causes me to constrict.

When Things Go Wrong

When I am working properly, I will dilate and constrict based on the amount of light entering the eyes, but when things go wrong I may stop from properly responding to light. In some cases, I might not look good from the get-go and you can notice abnormalities in my size. This is one of the main reasons why veterinarians often check a dog’s eyes as part of the physical exam and check my dilation or constriction in different lighting situations as a diagnostic tool.

Anisocoria, is the medical term for when the pupil in a dog’s eye is different from the other. Basically, in this case, I am bigger in one eye compared to the other. According to veterinary ophthalmologist Caryn E. Plummer, anisocoria may be indicative of some type of ocular or neurological disorder. However, not always this is detectable from onset; it may be necessary to shine a light in the dog’s eyes and watch how I respond both in bright and dim lights. This should be done by a vet, or even better, a veterinary ophthalmologist specially trained in evaluating eyes. Just consider that there are many conditions that may cause anisocoria in dogs such as an eye injury, inflammation somewhere within the eye, Horner’s syndrome, glaucoma, uveitis, exposure to toxins, head concussions and even cancer. Also, a very important important piece of information needed is uncovering which pupil is the abnormal one. Is it the dilated one or the constricted one?

“If anisocoria occurs suddenly, you should consider this an emergency situation and seek veterinary care immediately to lessen the chance that your dog’s vision will be permanently affected.”~ Dr. Cheryl Yuill, VCA Animal Hospital

Sometimes, I may also appear dilated in both eyes. When I no longer constrict in response to light this is often a sign that the dog’s eyes are no longer capable of recognizing light on the back of the eye causing blindness. Several conditions can cause this, such as blood clotting problems, infections, high blood pressure or a mass around the area of the optic nerve, explains Dr. Christian K.

Other times, I may appear dilated in both eyes. Dog owners describe their dogs as having “pin-point’ pupils. This can be due to exposure to chemicals such as pesticides, exposure to certain medications such as opioid drugs or benzodiazepines, or traumatic brain injury affecting the front of the brain stem, explains veterinarian Dr. Altman.

In some cases abnormalities in my shape can be due to congenital eye problems affecting me or the surrounding iris such as persistent pupillary membranes in dogs, coloboma, iris hypoplasia, sunburst pupils

As seen, I am very important when it comes to your dog’s vision and by looking at me, vets can even sort out medical problems. If you notice anything odd with me and the surrounding eye, please see your vet sooner than later. A “wait and see” approach could cost your dog’s vision and even affect his health, so keep an “eye” on me and report changes to your vet promptly! Yours truly,

Your Dog’s Pupil

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has signs of eye problems, please see your vet promptly to protect your dog’s vision.

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