Adrienne Farricelli, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

How Do I Stop My Dog From Pawing Me All The Time?

September 25, 2016September 23, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Has your dog’s pawing behavior gotten “out of hand” and you’re now stuck with a dog who is pawing at you all the time? Well, chances are, you may be part of the problem, because let’s face it, pawing in dogs is quite an endearing behavior and it’s difficult to resist a smart dog who in our eyes seems to be trying his best to adhere to our social etiquette. Putting the cutesy factor aside, in order to stop a dog from pawing at you all the time, you must first carefully analyze what it really going on through Rover’s mind when he insistently extends his paws at you.

Not What it Looks Like

Sure, dogs are quite adept into learning new tricks, there’s no bones about that, but that pawing behavior in reality is a far cry from the typical hand shake people exchange with one another.

It is common practice for humans to want to anthropomorphize and interpret dog behaviors as almost human-like.

Yet, last time we checked, dogs preferred greeting one another tail-first, or at the most, they would rather engage in an amicable nose touch rather than pawing at each other.

Pawing behavior directed at another dog’s face or shoulders is actually considered rude behavior when it comes to canine “etiquette” and may result in a growl or scuffle if carried out towards the wrong type of dog.

And when it comes to meeting and greeting people, well, let’s say that dogs would rather prefer to sniff in some other “odorous” places instead!

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A Hardwired Behavior

Even though dogs don’y typically extend their paws to give a hand shake as people do, we must admit that some dogs are particularly, (for lack of a better term) “pawsy.”

These are dogs who are likely to resort to using their paws to get their toys out from under a bed, open doors and cabinets (yup, keep those cabinets locked), clean their faces kitty style or toss a ball in the air. All dogs eventually end up finding some use of their paws at some point of their lives though, especially when using their mouth is ineffective and they are very determined to succeed in a particular task.

Once they discover how effective using their paws may be, they will therefore feel more and more compelled to increase their level of “manual dexterity” when the need arises.

Exploiting a Natural Talent

Since pawing behaviors are quite natural, training a dog to give paw is fairly easy, especially when it comes to teaching those naturally born “pawsy” dogs out there. Even those dogs were aren’t much used to using their paws eventually get it, if you are persistent and entice them with a good incentive (eg. treats).

The science of dog training says that “behaviors that are reinforced, will tend to become stronger and repeat, behaviors that are not reinforced will weaken and extinguish.”

What does this mean to dog owners? It means that since dogs are rewarded for pawing behaviors, dogs will be engaging in pawing behaviors more and more. This is a desirable outcome when it comes to training, as we want desirable behaviors to persist rather than extinguish. However, good trainers know that dogs should perform desired behaviors only and exclusively when the trainer asks for them. Failure to adhere to this very important rule can make a difference between a dog who paws when asked to and a dog pawing at his owners anytime he feels like it, which, as much as we love our dogs, can get quite annoying at times.

A Word About Rewards

“But I don’t reward my dog when he paws at me without me asking him to perform the behavior, so why is keeping pawing at me? Also, didn’t you just say that behaviors that are not reinforced will weaken and extinguish? Why is he keeping on doing that?”

This is a very good question.

Sure, you are not giving your dog treats when he is pawing at you, but there may be underlying “rewards” that are reinforcing the behavior and you may not be aware of.

For instance, attention. Many dogs love attention, they will do what it takes to get it, and to a dog who has been bored and lonely all day, any type of attention, even the smallest teeny ounce of it, or heck, even attention of the negative type, will do!

Dogs owned by people who work long hours each day, are often the poster child for this type of attention-seeking behavior. These socially deprived dogs have likely been waiting all day for their daily dose of attention and mental stimulation. Bored, and with little left to do, for these latchkey pooches, the owner’s return is likely the biggest perk of the day.

If the owners comes home and walk Rover or plays with him in a way to fulfill his social or mental stimulation needs, great! Most likely the dog will then settle and gnaw on a bone when the owners decides to watch TV, but what happens when the owner comes home from work, ignores the dog and then plops himself on the couch to watch TV? You got it, Rover will try to do anything to get a bit of attention. So he may try pawing, and since the owners look at him or talk to him or push him away, bingo! Rover got his slice of attention, so he’ll keep doing it more and more!

Beware of Inadvertent Reinforcement

OK, maybe you are not giving your dog negative attention, or maybe your dog is not lonely and bored, then perhaps at some time or another, you may have inadvertently reinforced the pawing behaviors. For example, say you were on the phone and were really focusing on a conversation. Here comes Rover and since your are sitting on the couch which is where you often pet him, he paws at you and you inadvertently end up petting him. If your dog loves being pet and this scenario repeats every now and then, he will likely think that pawing is a good way to get to activate your hands to start petting him. Next, you are stuck with a dog pawing at you, and you cannot figure out why!

“My dog though paws mostly at people, like guests in my house, what should I do?” In this case, be aware of the habit of social pawing. Social pawing is the tendency of some dogs to paw at people in hopes of getting attention. Your dog may just walk up to a guest and paw at him. What does your guest do next? “Awwww, you are soo cute! ” followed by many friendly pats and caresses. This may not seem really like a major problem, but soon, your dog learns that this is the best way to interact with people and a guest one day may get upset when Rover leaves muddy paw prints all over her white pair of pants, or worse, her child gets scratched.

Beware of Variable Reinforcement

Here’s another important knowledge nugget that you should know and we go back to the science of dog training ” behaviors that are reinforced on a variable schedule are prone to becoming quite addicting.”

To understand this, let’s pretend to be in Vegas. You spend a month in Vegas having the fun of your life playing the slot machines. The first day you don’t win, but then the second day you win a nice amount. You then spend the rest of your month playing every single day in hopes of winning again, and then, just before leaving, you eventually win again. Now you are stuck with a gaming addiction and at least twice a year you must make a trip back to Vegas, what happened? What happened is that those random wins have rewarded your persistence and now you are stuck with an addiction.

Back to dogs, if you reward those unasked-for pawing behaviors every now and then, you risk being stuck with a dog who has been rewarded for persistence and will therefore be pawing at you more and more in hopes of winning the slots ( that is, getting his slice of attention.) This means that you’ll be stuck with a stubborn pawing behavior that can be quite tough to extinguish if you don’t know how to tackle it, but fortunately, there are some easy ways you can work on it if you are willing to hold your ground.

“As the animal trainer Karen Pryor notes in Don’t Shoot The Dog!, a dolphin rewarded with a fishy treat every six jumps will soon become lackadaisical about the five in-between ones; reward it at random, however, and it’ll jump vigorously, never knowing which jump will bring fish. This is why slot machines are so addictive, and why we click compulsively on email and Twitter – not because we know we’ll be rewarded with interesting messages, but because we might be.” ~Oliver Burkeman

Tackling the Problem

“My dog is pawing at me. My dog keeps pawing at my face. My dog paws at my guests. How do I stop this annoying dog pawing behavior? ” Well, for a good reason some dog trainers have given up training dogs to “shake” or “give paw” in classes.

Things can get out of hand at times (pun intended,) but now that you understand the dynamics behind pawing behaviors in dogs, you are better equipped to stop this behavior. How? You put your dog’s pawing behavior under stimulus control.

In more simple words, you make the cued pawing behavior extra fluent and simply train your dog to give paw only and exclusively when asked to.

When your dog complies when you ask “paw,” you immediately reward him. Any pawing behaviors that are offered off cue (without being asked) are either totally ignored ( no look, no touch, no talk, and beware of the extinction burst phenomenon initially) or negatively punished by you saying something like “that’s enough” as you get up and leave. This is often all that it takes to make it clear in Rover’s mind that: “I should give paw only when I am asked to, every time I paw at my owner and it was not requested, my owner totally ignores me or even gets up and leaves.”

idea tip A Few More Tips

-If you own a bored dog who is pawing at you to gain a physical connection in hopes of doing something, make sure you go to the root of the problem and meet your dog’s needs for, exercise, mental stimulation and social interaction.

-Want to take a little break in the evening and watch your favorite show? When your dog paws at you, ignore him, and then when your dog gives up and leaves, call him to you, ask him to sit or lie down and reward him by giving him an interactive toy that will keep him occupied for some time such as a stiffed Kong.

Is your dog pawing at you, but you never taught him to “shake?”Training your dog to give paw on cue, can actually help you attain better control of the behaviors. Here’s a quick and easy way that is often used to train a dog to give paw. All you will need is a clicker (alternatively, use a verbal mark such as “yes!”) and some tasty treats.Present your open hand with a treat sitting on the palm. Let your dog eat it from your hand and then repeat one more time. Next, close your hand. Your dog may nudge at your hand for a few times and then when frustration kicks in, he may eventually try pawing at it. When he does, make sure you mark that behavior with a clicker or a “yes!” and open your hand letting him access to the treat. Repeat several times, and then at some point, when the behavior occurs more frequently, make sure to pronounce the verbal cue “paw” right before he paws at your hand and click and reward as soon as does. Soon, you’ll have a dog who will give paw upon hearing the verbal cue.

Putting Pawing Behaviors to Work

Have a dog who loves to give paw and use his paws? Why not open up a world of “pawsibilities” to expand your dog’s repertoire of cool tricks? Teach your dog to high five, salute, wave, say his prayers or cover his eyes. If your dog is bored or you are looking for some fun rainy-day activities, then why not teach him to use his paws to turn buttons on and off, switch on lights, file his nails by pawing at a sandpaper board or even play a battery-operated piano? There are many fun activities you can train your dog so he can put his natural “pawsy” tendencies to good use. A win-win, situation for all!

Did you know? Just like us, dogs have paw preferences. Some dogs are mostly left-handed while others are mostly right-handed.

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Is My Puppy’s Rapid Breathing Normal or Should I Worry?

March 15, 2022September 22, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

New puppy owners may often be concerned about their puppy breathing fast and may wonder whether it is normal of not. The answer is that it depends. While in many cases rapid breathing in puppies may have a reasonable explanation, puppy owners should also consider that there are also diseases and medical conditions that can cause fast breathing in puppies. A trip to the vet is always the best course action when in doubt, just to make sure everything is OK in the puppy’s health department.

The medical term used to depict rapid breathing is tachypnea. In particular, the term is used to describe any abnormal rapid breathing. Rapid breathing in puppies and dogs may be caused by physiological or pathological causes. Physiological causes often include triggers such as exercise, excitement or stress. Pathological causes, on the other hand include medical diseases. The distinction between physiological and pathological causes is often based on the context in which the rapid breathing in puppies occurs (when, in what precise circumstance?), but not always the distinction is clear cut enough though, which is why when in doubt it is best to consult with a veterinarian.

Is My Puppy Breathing Too Fast?

Generally speaking, consider that the normal breathing rate in dogs is between 18 and 34 breaths per minute, with puppies generally being at the higher end, explains veterinarian Dr. Lisa.

How does one count a puppy’s breathing rate though? It’s best to do it when the puppy is calm, awake and not panting (that means he has his mouth close without the tongue sticking out as described a few paragraphs below), this way, you have a baseline number you can compare with when you notice any rapid breathing that concerns you.

When puppies breathe, you will see that their chest rises with inspiration and falls with expiration. Therefore, consider that one cycle of inspiration and expiration equals one breath.

If you find it tedious counting your puppy’s breaths for an entire minute, no worries! There’s an easy-peasy way to speed up the process and take a short cut. This tip comes from the Tufts University, Cummings Veterinary Medical Center. Simply, count the number of breaths your puppy takes in 30 seconds (use a stopwatch for this or have a helper count for you) and then multiply that number by two.

Is 30 seconds too much? OK, you can further take a short cut and cut the time even more if you’re good in math. Simply, count those chest motions for 15 seconds and then multiply them by 4.

Along with learning how to take your dog’s pulse, getting a temperature, checking your puppy’s gums and capillary refill times, learning how to take your pup’s respiratory rate is important so you can recognize signs of trouble and report them to your vet immediately.

Did you know? When it comes to a pup’s respiratory rate, the brain is the primary controller. It receives input from special sensors that are responsible for detecting the levels of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the blood.

My Puppy is Breathing Fast After Exercise

If your puppy is breathing fast after a walk, after playing in the yard or because it is hot, the rapid breathing may be perfectly normal. Dogs do not sweat like humans do (they only have a few sweat glands on their feet) and therefore they must rely on other means to cool their bodies down.

With the mouth open and long tongue sticking out, puppies are not only cute, they’re taking advantage of the wonders of evaporation, as the moist surfaces of their mouth and tongue lower their core temperature down.

Don’t get too worried about your pup’s breathing rate when panting. When a puppy or dog is panting, the respiratory rate increases dramatically, which can be alarming for new puppy owners.

According to Dukes’ Physiology of Domestic Animals, when dogs pant, their breathing increases to about 200 to 400 breaths per minute. That’s a whole lot considering that normal breathing rate in dogs is 15 to 35 breaths per minute!

Warning: puppies tend to overheat fast and get tired from lots of exercise compared to adult dogs. Keep an eye on them for signs of being tired or hot, especially in those brachycephalic puppies!

My Puppy is Breathing Fast in the Car/Crate

Is your puppy breathing fast in a specific circumstance? For example, is your puppy breathing fast when crated or when in the car (and it’s not hot)? Chances are, your puppy may be stressed.

Puppies can get quite worked up emotionally when they are exposed to situations they are not comfortable with. In this case, the rapid breathing is based on those specific contexts, meaning that it happens specifically in those precise circumstances. Then, once your puppy is let out of the crate or he has reached his destination after a car ride, unless there are no other stressful events going on, he should go back to breathing normally as the process of homeostasis kicks in.

Here’s a tip: If the car or crate seems to be making your puppy nervous, try taking small baby steps to help your puppy adjust to riding in the car or being crated. Start slow and make sure to add rewards such as toys and tasty treats along with these activities to make them fun. If your puppy is breathing fast or panting in the car, consider that it could also be he is prone to getting car sick. Consult with your vet.

” Excitement, anxiety, fear, pain or even happy anticipation can all increase your pets respiratory rate via the limbic system of its brain.”~Dr. Ron Hines

My Puppy is Breathing Fast When Sleeping

“Help, my puppy is breathing really fast while sleeping!” This was a call we often used to get at the veterinary clinic. Behind this call there was always a very concerned owner wondering if he should be bringing the puppy in.

We were specifically trained on how to reassure these concerned puppy owners after asking a bit of basic “triage” questions such as: Is there also twitching/whining/moving during his sleep? Is the puppy normally active and playful when awake? Does the rapid, erratic breathing stop once he’s awake?

When the owners answered “yes!” to all the above, we simply told them that most likely their puppies were healthy, happy campers who were simply “acting out” their dreams.

Yes, because puppies, just like humans, dream and their REM (Rapid Eye Movement) stage can be quite dramatic to watch at times. If you feel tempted to wake up your puppy because you think he’s having a bad dream (such as being chased by your next-door neighbor’s kitty), please don’t. Sleep is very important to puppies as that’s when they basically get to do a lot of growing and developing, so yes, as the saying goes, let sleeping puppies lie!

“I personally would not be too concerned about this sort of respiratory rate while a puppy is sleeping, in young animals it can be variable and it can also be variable during sleep periods due to episodes of rapid eye movement sleep { REM } and other factors. I would be much more concerned about how the puppy is when awake, if the puppy is then acting normally you would have few problems.”~ Dr. Scott Nimmo

Is My Puppy Breathing Fast from Disease?

Dyspnea, is the medical term used to depict fast, labored breathing. Basically, the term is coined to describe respiratory distress caused by some pathological disorder that often warrants immediate veterinary attention. Generally, there is no obvious explanation for this type of breathing to occur, in other words, the puppy didn’t exercise, his environment is not hot and there seems to be no reason for the puppy to be stressed or excited.

Puppies who are breathing fast because of some underlying disease may tend to show signs of trouble breathing by assuming abnormal positions such as keeping the head and neck extended or the elbows held wide apart, away from the body.

What diseases or conditions can cause a puppy to breath fast? There are several respiratory and non-respiratory disorders known for causing this and certain medical conditions. Anemia, heart problems, circulatory problems, presence of heartworm, infections, fever, dehydration, pain, shock may cause changes in a puppy’s normal respiratory rate.

Often these disorders and conditions are accompanied by other symptoms on top of the increase in respiratory rate such as coughing fits, pale gums, lethargy, loss of appetite, increased temperature, congestion, and exercise intolerance, but sometimes puppies may hide their symptoms or they may not be readily recognized by puppy owners. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and see a vet, especially when it comes to something serious as abnormal breathing.

“When a dog’s respiratory rate is persistently high and can’t be attributed to any of the above environmental factors, it can signal a health problem such as anemia, congestive heart failure or various respiratory disorders.” Dr. Marty Becker

Did you know? Rapid breathing may also be seen as a side effect of a medication or a reactions to vaccinations. If your puppy is breathing fast after vaccines or taking a medication, consult with your vet to be safe.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Puppies may breath rapidly for a variety of causes. Some of them are pretty obvious and there is likely nothing to really worry about, while others warrant a veterinary visit. If your puppy is breathing abnormally fast while awake and there doesn’t seem to be an explanation, it’s best to err on the side of caution and contact your vet immediately.

Dog Word of the Day: Hematochezia

October 28, 2016September 21, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

In simple words, hematochezia is the medical term for blood in a dog’s stool. Dog owners who routinely observe their dogs’ daily outputs are at an advantage as they get to recognize signs of trouble such as diarrhea, the presence of parasites or fresh blood in the dog’s stool. The presence of hematochezia is often concerning for dog owners as they possibly associate the presence of blood in the dog’s stool with serious health conditions such as cancer. However, in dogs hematochezia is not always necessarily as troublesome, but it’s sure worthy of veterinary investigation so to identify the underlying cause and have it addressed.

What Does Hematochezia Look Like?

Hematochezia in dogs appears as blood in the dog’s stool. Unlike melena, the blood is red, which means it’s fresh, frank blood that has not been digested. The blood may appear as streaks over the stool or mixed within it or there may be a few droplets of blood at the end of the bowel movement. Dogs owners often describe it as “my dog has bright blood in her poop” or “my dog passed blood clots in her stool.” The stool may be firm but it is often soft in consistency and may also appear as liquid diarrhea.

Where is the Blood Coming From?

While melena appears as dark, tarry stools, suggesting bleeding from the upper digestive tract, in hematochezia the presence of fresh, red blood is suggestive instead of bleeding in the lower intestinal tract. This means the blood may be coming from the dog’s descending colon or rectum. As mentioned, the presence of fresh, red blood in the dog’s stool can be frightening to witness, but in dogs it’s generally less frequently associated with life threatening diseases as those seen with melena, explains veterinarian W. Grant Guilford in the book “Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine. ” However, there are several conditions associated with blood in dog’s stools that can be worrisome.

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What Does it Mean?

What causes hematochezia in dogs? Colitis, the inflammation of the dog’s colon is often a common culprit. Affected dogs typically have blood and mucus in the stool. Typically, the dog’s stools start off on the soft side and then become progressively gelatinous, shiny and with mucus, explains veterinarian Dr. Fiona. The mucus is produced by the colon when inflamed, while the blood is caused by erosions that trigger bleeding. Colitis is often seen with dietary indiscretions, abrupt food changes, presence of parasites or protozoans and even stress. In puppies, vomiting, diarrhea and bloody stools can be indicative of parvo virus which needs immediate veterinary attention. Other possibilities that require immediate veterinary attention include hemorrhagic gastroenteritis, blood clotting disorders and ingestion of rat poison.

Did you know? Dog owners often assume their dogs have hemorrhoids when they notice fresh blood on a dog’s stool. Dogs though don’t get hemorrhoids like humans do, but are more likely to get an impacted/infected anal glands, explains veterinarian Dr. Peter. These can sometimes be oozing bright red blood. Other possibilities are polyps in the dog’s colon or rectum, trauma to the anal area and sometimes cancer of the lower bowel.

What Should Dog Owners Do?

Blood in a dog’s stool can be a minor, temporary problem or it could be a serious one that needs immediate veterinary attention such as parvo virus, a blood clotting disorder or ingestion of rat poison. It’s always best to play the “better safe than sorry” practice.

Blood in a dog’s stool is not normal and should be investigated by a veterinarian so that the underlying cause can be addressed. Bringing a stool sample along for the vet visit is a good starting point so that the vet can confirm or rule out presence of parasites or protozoans.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has bloody stools, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

DVM Greg Martinez Discusses Mucus and Red Blood in Stool

References:

Textbook of Veterinary Internal Medicine, Saunders; 7 edition (January 7, 2010)

Photo Credits:

A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

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Why is There Ash in My Dog’s Food?

September 20, 2016September 20, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

If you ever read a dog’s food label, you may have noticed that among the list of ingredients there is ash. What is ash doing in your dog’s food? Is it really ash as the ash you would find after having a barbecue? And most of all, is it healthy for dogs to have ash in their food? With the many unscrupulous things pet food manufacturers have been known for doing in the past decades to make easy money, it’s tempting to point the finger and blame ash content as one of those things that shouldn’t be there. So today’s trivia question is:

Why is there ash in dog food?

A It’s added as a filler to make kibble less expensive to make

B It’s residue from cooking bones that should be removed but it’s not

C It’s a pet food label’s way of describing mineral content

D It accidentally gets there and cannot be removed

The correct answer is: drum roll please….

drum

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The Correct Answer is, C, ash in dog food is on the label to describe the mineral content of a dog’s food.

About Ash in Dog Food

When it comes to ash in dog food, it’s not really what it sounds. So, no, it’s not the type of ash we are used to seeing as when burning charcoal for a barbecue or burning wood in a fireplace. Ash in this case, refers to the amount of minerals that are found in the food. Ash is therefore not an ingredient that’s purposely added to a dog’s food, it’s just there because it’s part of the food.

Basically, ash is the mineral content that would be left behind if the dog food was incinerated at high temperatures (like at 550 degrees) causing proteins, fats and carbs to be burned, leaving behind all the minerals.

Yes, technically speaking it’s the “cremains” left behind if you were to “cremate” a canned dog food or a pile of kibble. Of course, the food you feed your dog is not incinerated, unless for laboratory testing purposes, otherwise what a waste that would be! Ash content is therefore just a statistical measurement of the combustible part of the food.

“Ash is the inorganic residue remaining after the water and organic matter have been removed by heating in the presence of oxidizing agents, which provides a measure of the total amount of minerals within a food.”~University of Massachusetts Amherst

Is Ash in Dog Food Bad?

Since ash consists of minerals, it’s a good thing to have in dog food. Indeed, ash is also often found in many human foods if you have time to read labels. Ash contains calcium, phosphorous, iron, zinc, and other trace minerals that dogs need in their diets. For instance, zinc is much needed for the skin, calcium and phosphorous are needed for healthy bones, while potassium is essential for the heart and kidneys. Generally though dogs do not need a whole lot of minerals though. So yes, ash in dog food is actually a good thing and also quite inevitable, but as with everything, moderation is key. If you are looking for precise numbers of recommendations, consult with a veterinary nutritionist.

Did you know? Many dog food manufacturers do not disclose their ash statistics. Indeed, according to Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) ash guarantee is not required on pet food labeling.

puppy food

Expressed in Percentages

There are a myriad of dog food types on the market nowadays and each brand of dog food varies when it comes to moisture and ash content. The amount of ash in dog food is expressed in percentages. The percentage basically reflects the amount of ash remaining at the end of the incinerating process compared to how much food there was to start with at the beginning of the process. Usually, these percentages range between 5 and 8 percent in kibble and between 1 and 2 percent in canned food. The total ash content found in a bag of food however isn’t really helpful when it comes to indicate the specific minerals in it. More information though may be obtained from contacting the dog food manufacturer.

“I was taught ash of 7% or lower is the goal in constructing a quality food… Ash denotes the amount of bone that’s ground into the meal. A low ash content signifies a higher grade meal due to more protein included and less bone…Cost of using higher quality proteins, thus lower ash, then comes into play and you can tell that by what a food costs.”~Dr. Tim Hunt, DVM

factory — Today, computers can easily measure ash content.

An Insight into The Procedure

As one may imagine, the process of measuring moisture and ash content is quite elaborate for pet food manufacturing companies. It entails carefully monitoring the food’s mineral contents and moisture routinely so to maintain a high level of consistency. The traditional method requires ovens or furnaces which can be time consuming, but now there are new computers on the market which are meant to measure moisture, solids and ash contents with accuracy at 1/10 of the time for moisture testing and 1/7 of the time for ash testing. These computers can effectively provide an in-depth analysis from a single sample.

References:

Dogs: The Ultimate Care Guide: Good Health, Loving Care, Maximum Longevity, by Matthew Hoffman, Rodale Books (May 15, 1998)
Brown S., Taylor B., “See Spot Live Longer”, 2007 Creekobear Press, Eugene, OR USA, p 55

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I am Your Dog’s Sinuses

October 15, 2016September 19, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Yes, for those who were wondering, dogs have sinuses too and this means they are also prone to developing their own sets of sinus problems. Sinus problems in dogs are perhaps not as common as in humans, but they sure seem to cause the same annoying problems as in humans. Just make sure to consult with your vet if your dog seems to have problems with his sinuses, and never try to give any over-the-counter products meant for humans as they can be potentially toxic! So today, let’s get more acquainted with a dog’s sinuses, where they are located, what they do, and signs of trouble when things go wrong.

Introducing Your Dog’s Sinuses

Hello, it’s your dog’s sinuses talking! Yup, we are those hollow air spaces found within the bones of your dog’s skull. There are several of us and we are named after the skull bones that house us. Many people may assume we are located in the dog’s nose but actually we are located elsewhere. The two of us located in the front part of your dog’s head are known as frontal sinuses while the two of us located nearby your dog’s upper jaw are known as maxillary sinuses. The numbers don’t seem to add up? Well, consider that humans have extra sinuses, the ethmoid sinuses and the sphenoid sinuses.

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We are coated with a layer of mucus and have little hairs called cilia which are meant to trap and push bacteria and pollutants out of the way through a small drainage hole. By draining things that shouldn’t be there, we are basically protecting your dog’s lungs from bacteria, viruses, and foreign particles in the air.

When Things Go Wrong

As in people, we can sometimes get infected and this can be due to viruses, bacteria and fungi. Not to mention that dust, smoke or pollen may also cause us to get inflamed, making us more susceptible to infection. Sometimes we may get infected from secondary problems such as the presence of an abscessed carnassial tooth root. These secondary infections are though more commonly seen in older dogs. Basically, what happens is bacteria from the mouth creeps up all the way to us through a bad tooth. X-rays can provide a good picture of what may be going on. Extraction of the tooth therefore would help stop this infection.

“The 4th Upper Premolar Tooth, is the largest in the dog’s mouth. It is also called the carnassial tooth. It is a massive three-rooted tooth with long roots that is used by the dog to shear and crack. The roots are so long that they reach into the maxillary sinuses upon which the abscess later forms. ~Dr. Ron Hines

What signs does a sinus infection in dogs cause? Since we get inflamed and congested with fluid, affected dogs may be sneezing, coughing and gagging to get these fluids out. The eyes and nose may be watery, and in severe cases, affected dogs may lose their appetite and even become lethargic. The discharge may be clear as often seen in allergies, but may thicken when we are infected. A culture of the dog’s nasal discharge can provide an insight as to whether viruses or bacteria are affecting us. There may also be sometimes blood from the nose, but this needs to be promptly checked out as this can a sign of cancer in elderly dogs.

A Word of Caution

It’s important to avoid trying to use over the counter medications for sinus infections as dogs have a different metabolism and certain ingredients may be potentially toxic. For example, decongestants containing pseudoephedrine or phenylephrine, commonly found in cold, flu and allergy medications such as Claritin-D or Mucinex-D can cause vomiting, dilated pupils, high blood pressure, abnormal heart rhythms, tremors, seizures and even death, warns the Pet Poison Helpline. So if your dog shows signs of problems with us, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment!

I hope this has helped you understand us better. As seen we are quite important in keeping Rover healthy and happy! So keep an eye on us for signs of trouble and report to your vet any unusual findings as soon as you can. Your dog will thank you for that! Best regards,

Your Dog’s Sinuses

Disclaimer: this article is not to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is showing signs of problems with his sinuses, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

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Five Interesting Facts About a Dog’s Sense of Thirst

September 22, 2016September 18, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

The sensation of thirst is what makes dogs crave water, and just as it happens with us, it’s natural for a dog to feel thirsty after being out in hot weather or after exercising. Thirst is what tells dogs that it’s time to replenish his liquid supply. It’s sort of like that “check fluids” light that starts blinking when it’s time to bring your car in for service. Whether your dog drinks from a fresh mountain spring or a bowl of water, the sensation of quenching that thirst certainly makes him feel better. Keep an eye on that water bowl though, at times, excessive thirst can be a sign of a medical problem.

Dogs Have a Thirst Center…

What causes dogs to be thirsty? A dog’s thirst center is activated when the body detects a need for more fluids. Thirst can be caused by a loss of blood volume, known as hypovolemia or by a change in the normal levels of sodium and water in the blood. The dog’s thirst center is located in the brain, and the hypothalamus is ultimately the responsible party for triggering thirst. The hypothalamus is equipped with special sensors that are constantly monitoring the blood’s concentration of sodium and the blood’s overall volume and pressure. When the sensors detect low blood volume as seen from excessive bleeding or when it detects high blood concentrations of sodium, that’s when the dog’s hypothalamus springs into action and sends out a strong message: “Hey Rover, go drink something now!”

“The thirst center is stimulated by an increase in plasma osmolality (sodium concentration) and/or a decrease in blood volume (hypovolemia) resulting in an increase in water consumption.”~David S. Bruyette, DVM, DACVIM

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And it Can Take a Conservatory Approach

When the dog’s body recognizes lowered fluid levels, it not only increases thirst, but also takes important measures to protect the dog from fast dehydration. The hypothalamus will therefore take a further step to prevent this by soliciting the posterior pituitary gland to secrete an antidiuretic hormone (ADH) also known as arginine vasopressin, which travels to the dog’s kidneys telling them to concentrate the urine and reduce urine volume. The goal is therefore conserving water, at least until the fluids are replenished. How’s that for a lesson on water conservation?

Did you know? The urine specific gravity test is meant to evaluate how concentrated a dog’s urine is and can help the vet determine how well a dog’s kidneys are working.

Some Dogs Have too Little

When a dog isn’t hydrated well, he’s known for being dehydrated. Dehydration in dogs can occur in two specific circumstances: reduced water intake or increased loss of fluids as seen from excessive vomiting and diarrhea. There are several ways you can tell whether a dog is dehydrated. A dehydrated dog will act lethargic, lose appetite, have sunken eyes and a dry mouth. A dehydrated dog’s skin will also lose elasticity and therefore if you pull the skin over the back or neck, it will fail to spring back into position quickly, or worse, it may stay lifted. Capillary refill time will also increase in dehydrated dogs.

Curious fact: Interestingly, yet rare, some dogs may have a malfunction in their thirst center of his brain. According to Prospect Park Animal Clinic, this means that, in plain English, the affected dogs’ “I’m thirsty trigger” doesn’t work as it should and therefore these dogs don’t feel the urge to drink.

And Some Dogs Have Too Much

On the other end of the spectrum are dogs who drink too much. The medical term for excessive drinking is “polydipsia.” According to Dr. David Bruyette, a board-certified veterinarian specializing in internal medicine, water consumption exceeding 100 ml/kg is considered abnormal. There are several conditions that can cause increased drinking in dogs, and along with that, increase urination (what comes in, must go out after all!).

According to the late and dearly missed veterinarian Dr. Sophia Yin, some of these diseases could range from a brain tumor that affects the dog’s thirst center of the brain to more common issues such as kidney or liver disease, adrenal gland disease or diabetes.

And a Few Dogs May Even Guard it!

Most people are accustomed to dogs who guard their toys, food, bones and resting spots, but not many people are familiar with dogs who feel compelled to guarding the water bowl. There’s a good reason though why they do so, explains veterinary behaviorist Karen Overall, in the book “Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats.”Water is one of those things a dog may struggle with a human or other dog over access to it. Add on top of that, the fact that some dogs who had a hard start in life may have had limited access to water and experienced pronounced thirst, and there you go, you have the perfect recipe for a dog who compelled to guard the water bowl.

References:

Functional Anatomy and Physiology of Domestic Animals, By William O. Reece, Wiley-Blackwell; 4 edition (March 4, 2009)
DVM360, Diagnostic approach to polyuria and polydipsia (Proceedings) retrieved from the web on September 18th, 2016
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)

Does Your Dog Hate Changes With a Passion?

September 17, 2016September 17, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Changes can be exciting for people as they hop on novel adventures, but ask your dog and he’ll likely tell you that he hates changes with a passion. Unfortunately, changes are often inevitable in a dog’s life. A move, a new owner, a baby, a new pet, a vacation, a new veterinarian, a previously housebound owner starting a new job, these are all things dogs are often subjected to throughout their lives. Heraclitus of Ephesus said “the only thing that is constant is change ” and while some dogs don’t seem to mind changes much, some dogs have quite a hard time adapting to them.

Life is Not Easy for Fido

We stumbled on a blog depicting dogs as not having a hard time coping with changes and that dog owners are often the ones having a harder time. While this can be the case when we start worrying about a future trip coming up in the next few weeks (while dogs live in oblivious bliss at least until those dreaded suitcases come out!), we find that several dogs “hate” change with a passion, especially if it means not coming along with the owner but being boarded in a kennel instead, while the owners are thousands of miles away enjoying a cruise to the Bahamas.

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Change is often not easy on dogs, and while they are often spared from the “pre-change anxiety” we experience several weeks prior to the changing event, dogs are often as stressed, if not more, than their owners the moment the change occurs and the stress may linger even for a certain period of time afterward. Some dogs are very sensitive to changes in their routine, and we know of some dogs who even get upset if their owners happens to re-arrange furniture!

An Insight into Homeostasis

Homeostasis derives from the Greek word “standing still” and is used to depict the body’s effort to maintain everything balanced and stable. The term was coined by famous American physiologist Dr. Walter Cannon where in his book “The Wisdom of the Body”, describes homeostasis as the ability for the body to maintain steady levels of things like water, salt, glucose, fat, calcium, oxygen, blood pressure and body temperature. When something goes out of balance, the body quickly does everything it can to bring things back to normal. So if say a dog is hot, his body will do what it takes to cool his body down, if too high concentrations of glucose are detected in the blood, insulin is released and the dog’s thirst center will be triggered causing him to drink more, if the dog’s body temperature lowers, homeostasis is often attained by evoking the muscles to generate heat by shivering.

“A thermostat exhibits the quality of homeostasis—when the room temperature rises above a set point, the thermostat activates the air conditioner; when the temperature falls below the set point, it activates the heater.”~Planned Success Institute

Mechanisms for Changes

In the same way as homeostatic reactions occur to make adjustments when things need to be stabilized, the mind undergoes something similar too. Homeostasis in this case works on bringing back the dog’s body and mind to an optimal state after it has been disturbed by some stressful change. Fortunately, people and animals are equipped with several mechanisms to help them adapt to changes. When exposed to a change, several physiological and behavioral processes take place before a psychological adjustment is made that helps the dog accept a stressful stimulus or situation and consider it nonthreatening.

“The concept of homeostasis can be applied not only to stressors associated with internal changes, such as changes in blood sugar, but also external changes such as unpleasant and dangerous environments or situations that are confusing to the animal: thus, if something scares the animal it may run away in order to restore the preferred state of relaxation in a safe and secure environment.”~Daniel Mills et al.

Working to Restore Balance

Gaining that cherished balance back and returning to a state of normalcy can sometimes be quite difficult and people often misinterpret the dog’s efforts.For instance, when a dog is placed in a kennel or crate, many people assume that their dog’s whining and barking is due to boredom, but often it’s actually the dog’s frustration from not being able to restore homeostasis, suggests Daniel Mills professor of veterinary behavioural medicine at the University of Lincoln along with other authors in the book “Stress and Pheromonatherapy in Small Animal Clinical Behaviour.”

In a similar fashion, a dog who finds himself in a new place with new noises or with a new pet, may crave going back to a state of normalcy, but when this is not possible, he must learn to cope and adapt, hopefully with the help of the owner and possibly with some calming aids such as DAP sprays. According to the book Animal Behavior for Shelter Veterinarians and Staff “As a consequence of the stressor, the animal will then undergo behavioral and physiological adjustments to avoid or adapt to the stressor and return to homeostasis.” Restoring balance and a state of normalcy therefore feels good, and all living beings cherish that comforting feeling associated with reaching that neurophysiological stability associated with “emotional homeostasis.”

“Every individual strives to achieve and maintain emotional homeostasis., i.e. a positive emotional state. The function of emotional homeostasis is to allow an individual to deal with and adjust to the many changes that are part of everyday life.”~The APBC Book of Companion Animal Behaviour

Did you know? A dog’s capacity to remain in emotional homeostasis develops through the puppy’s sensitive period for behavioral organisation. According to The APBC Book of Companion Animal Behaviour, in early life “a picture of the world” is formed where everything that is considered within the norm is retained. Any changes in the environment that deviates from this “standard” can cause emotional upset.

References:

Scientific American, What is homeostasis? retrieved from the web on Sept 17th, 2016
Stress and Pheromonatherapy in Small Animal Clinical Behaviour, by Daniel Mills, Helen Zulch, and Maya Braem Dube, John Wiley & Sons; 2nd ed. edition (21 Dec. 2012)
Animal Behavior for Shelter Veterinarians and Staff 1st Edition, by Emily Weiss (Editor), Heather Mohan-Gibbons (Editor), Stephen Zawistowski (Editor), Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (July 7, 2015)
SENSITIVE PERIODS IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF BEHAVIOURAL ORGANIZATION IN THE DOG AND THE ROLE OF EMOTIONAL HOMEOSTASIS J. Pluijmakers1 D.L. Appleby2 * J.W.S. Bradshaw1 1 Anthrozoology Institute, Department of Clinical Veterinary Science, University of Bristol, BS40 5DU, UK 2 Pet Behaviour Centre, Defford, Worcs WR8 9AB, UK
The APBC Book of Companion Animal Behaviour, By Sarah Heath, Rosie Barclay, Julie Bedford

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Different Dog-to-Dog Tolerance Levels

November 7, 2016September 16, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Just like people, dogs have their own personalities and they may react differently when it comes to interactions with other dogs. On one hand you have social butterflies, dogs who love mingling with other dogs, then, on the opposite side of the spectrum, you have dogs who don’t want to have anything to do with other dogs and the last thing they want is to meet them. There are then several other types of dogs falling somewhere in between. Of course, these are just generalized profiles as every dog’s personality may vary and have different facets, but different personality types and dog-to-dog tolerance levels should be kept into consideration especially when it comes to deciding whether to make dogs interact.

Some Factors to Consider

Most dogs are eager to play and interact with other dogs when they are puppies and youngsters, but several have a change of heart as they become socially mature. Generally, starting at the age of 12 to 18 months, several dogs may start to be less and less interested in interacting with other dogs and their tolerance levels may lower. Just like children grow up and stop going to the playground, certain dogs may no longer enjoy trips at the doggy park perhaps often preferring play dates with a handful of dogs they know.

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On top of dogs becoming a bit more aloof as they mature, there are several other factors that may play a role in how dogs react to other dogs and their tolerance levels. Handler influence, an over-protective attitude related to their owner, overall socialization levels, past experiences, and even genetics may play a role as to how dogs may tolerate other dogs. However, no rules are written in stone and dog behavior is prone to changing therefore, social butterflies may decide that they no longer enjoy mingling with other dogs, while dogs who have a hard time tolerating dogs may start enjoying being around dogs with proper guidance.

“Many, starting between ages one and three on average, become more selective about their dog friends, less playful in general and less willing to tolerate crude social behavior from other dogs.”Jean Donaldson

The Canine Tarzan

The Tarzans of the doggy world are party goers but tend to lack social skills. Their motto is “let’s get together and paaaaarty!” These easy going fellows are very forgiving and don’t seem to mind even the rudest doggy manners. A dog rushes up and paws at their face? No biggie, it’s all part of the fun. After all, these are the same direct behaviors they engage in whether meeting long-time friends or fresher acquaintances (who might not appreciate their coming-on-too-strong greeting style.)

Many youngsters are this way, but some dogs remain perpetual party dogs for the rest of their lives. These dogs love spending time at the dog park, just as party goers love spending time at the disco or local bar partying and mingling with the crowds. On walks, these fellows may pull in their eagerness to mug other dogs in excitement.

The Social Butterfly

These dogs do fine seeing other dogs on walks and are pretty much social beings, but they have more polite manners. Upon meeting new dogs, they may act indifferent or friendly, allowing the other dog to sniff them without complaint. Rude behaviors are generally tolerated as these dogs are quite tolerant and forgiving.

These dogs enjoy the company of other dogs and thrive on social contact even though they may lack the excessive “let’s party” obnoxious behaviors of the Tarzans. The play style of social butterflies are within the norm, and because they don’t tend to break many social rules they aren’t as much in trouble as Tarzan dogs are.

The Canine Maverick

Just like some people would rather enjoy a cup of coffee in front of a fireplace rather than dancing the night away at the night club, some dogs would rather have a good time in other, less chaotic ways. These dogs are not anti-social, they just have their own preferences of what they like to do best.

When placed in a play group, these dogs may be fine with other dogs, but they would rather engage in certain activities than mingle with the crowds. You’ll therefore see them interact a bit with the other dogs, but then they’ll just stray away and go on a sniffing adventure or engage in a game with their owners. These dogs may do best at the dog park during off-peaks hours. On walks, Maverick dogs tend to ignore other dogs, going on with their business as usual.

The Party Pooper

Some dogs are selective of who to befriend and they may have low tolerance for unknown dogs who get in their faces and don’t follow certain rules when they interact. These dogs may do fine seeing other dogs on walks, but if a Tarzan pulls to greet them and manages to get in their face or place a paw on they’ll shoulder, they’ll get all upset about it. Same goes during play. Obnoxious behaviors are not well tolerated by these guys. A growl though often works in setting rude dogs straight. These dogs aren’t really trying to be party poopers, they just want other dogs to adhere to proper social etiquette.

After all, how would you feel if a total stranger you have never met, rushes to you and gives you a hug? These dogs feel the same way, but they are often frowned upon at the dog park, when owners of Tarzan dogs blame them for not being nice to their dogs who “just wanna have fun.”

The Wallflower

Just as some people stick to the walls in parties, some dogs will linger by the edges of the dog park. These shy, timid dogs are not too fond of rowdy dog behaviors and often find them intimidating. Well-meaning owners often try to encourage them to join in, but their tails go down as soon as any dog tries to entice them in a game. These dogs aren’t really having fun, and if they happen to be cornered, they may even engage in defensive behaviors. The dog park is not suitable for these dogs as they often end up having traumatic experiences which only make them more fearful.

On walks, these dogs may feel intimidated by other dogs and if forced to meet and greet, they may hide between the owner’s legs if the other dog is too rowdy.

“Each dog has a different tolerance for meeting and greeting new dogs. Get to know your dog’s comfort level.” ~ Nancy Kerns

The Reactive Rover

In a perfect world, everybody gets along with one another, but things aren’t always as one would dream. Reactive Rovers may have no doggy friends, but if they do, they’re only a few they know very well such as the dogs they live with or perhaps just a dog with which they grew up with. On walks, these dogs may display aggressive behaviors such as barking or lunging at other dogs coming too close (no to be confused with barrier frustation); basically, their way of telling them in doggy language to keep distance. These dogs may appear tense when other dogs are present. Reactive Rovers can be helped to accept and better tolerate other dogs under the guidance of a trainer, but they may revert to their defensive behaviors if they are mismanaged or set up for failure.

For further reading: What’s Your Dog’s Play Style?

References:

Monroe SPCA, Four Categories for Measuring Dog Tolerance Levels, retrieved from the web on Sept 16th, 2016
Paws Abilities, Taming the Canine Tarzan, retrieved from the web on Sept 16th, 2016
Visiting the Dog Park: Having Fun, Staying Safe, By Cheryl S. Smith, Dogwise Publishing; 1st edition (March 16, 2007)
Fight, by Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing (January 1, 2002)

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Understanding Dog Pee Pads and How They Work

September 15, 2016September 15, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Dog pee pads: let’s face it, the idea is ingenuous, getting a dog or puppy to use a pee pad while the rest of the home remains immaculately clean is a dog owner’s dream come true. Too bad though that soon reality hits hard when dogs seem to potty just about everywhere except on the pee pad! If you’re dealing with this frustrating situation, rest assured you are not alone, countless owners get frustrated when their dogs totally miss the target and aim wrong. Is something wrong with the pee pad or is the dog just not getting it? Does Rover perhaps need a marksmanship class?Understanding better how pee pads work and how dogs perceive them, can help troubleshooting the problem.

Dog Pee Pads Under Scrutiny

What are pee pads for dogs? Also known as potty pads, piddle pads, wee-wee pads or training pads, dog pee pads are simply square or rectangular layers of absorbent material meant to soak up a dog’s excretions.

Most dog pee pads are made of gauze over blue plastic which is meant to face down. Several brands also have adhesive tabs to help them adhere to the floor. For owner appeal, several brands now offer odor-eliminating scents so to reduce odors.

There are a variety of pee pads on the market nowadays with different features and perks. The next question is though, do pee pads really work? Are they suitable for everybody? What can owners do to increase the chances that their puppy or dog will use them?

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Not for Everybody

Pee pads for dogs work may work for some owners, but they are not for everyone. If you have access to a yard and have time to invest in traditional potty training, your best bet is to start training your puppy or dog to go potty outdoors straight from the get-go. It can be quite challenging to wean puppies off training pads after using them for quite some time as puppies tend to develop a substrate preference at an early age. According to Karen Overall, puppies tend to develop a substrate preference at around 8 and a half weeks of age.

Not all people though have the fortune of having access to a yard, and some dog and puppy owners may find it easier to use the dog pee pads permanently (or partially, at least until the puppy is old enough to hold it for longer periods of time) for various reasons. Here are a few examples of cases where dog potty training pads may turn useful:

Owners of those teeny pint-sized dogs who get chilled very easily when temperatures drop
Owners of sick, convalescent dogs who are weak or have mobility problems.
Owners of fearful dogs who are too afraid and uncomfortable to potty outdoors
Owners of puppies who are in the process of being potty trained but live in high-rise apartments
Owners of young puppies who must leave their pups inside for longer than they can hold it
Owners of puppies who don’t have access to a backyard
Owner who have a health issue and cannot go easily outside

The Truth About Attractants

Many companies advertise how well their pee pads work courtesy of several attractants added for the purpose of drawing the dog to relieve himself on the pad. Not all attractants are created equal though and therefore not all of them may work.

Some puppy pee pads are given a fresh grass scent. These pee pads can therefore turn helpful for dogs and puppies destined to use grassy areas in the yard in the future as a permanent substrate.

Pee pads treated with ammonia can aid in the potty training process considering the role ammonia has in potty training. Ever heard how using ammonia-based products to clean up soiled areas can cause a puppy to actually soil over the area more and more? Here’s the reason why. Ammonia is a byproduct excreted in urine, so when you clean up urine using an ammonia-based product, you are spreading the smell of.. yes, urine. So when the puppy feels the need to urinate, he’ll pick the spot that smells like ammonia simply because the smell of urine tells him that’s his peeing spot. Adding ammonia to a pee pad may therefore actually do the trick convincing him to pee on it, but there’s a cheaper option as described below.

And what about pee pads treated with pheromones? Some pee pads are treated with synthetic pheromones while others sell pheromones in spray form to be sprayed directly on the pee pad. Pheromones are chemicals secreted by dogs that trigger responses in other dogs who smell them. In this case the synthetic pheromones used in dog pee pads are crafted for the purpose of attracting the dog to pee over it in a similar fashion as when they sniff a fire hydrant or lamp post that has pheromones left by another dog. While this may seem like an astute strategy, it doesn’t always work. Indeed, many housebreaking pheromones-based sprays have awful reviews. And while some pups seem attracted to the pads, it’s most likely because they can’t wait to rip them up into pieces or turn them into their favorite sleeping spots! So for sake of effectiveness, even an old newspaper may work, but it might not fare well when it comes to absorption.

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Did you know? If you have plain pee pads with no attractant, you can make your own form of attractant by simply collecting with a paper towel a bit of your dog’s urine from an area he previously soiled and passing it onto the pee pad. The scent of pee will tell your dog that this is his new bathroom!

Strategies for Success

Many people assume that once you place a pee pad on the floor, the dog will magically pee on it every single time. Sorry, to burst someone’s bubble, but if things were as simple as that, the process of potty training would be as easy as pie and dogs would start growing halos over their heads. The truth is that dogs need to be trained to use the pads and it can take even a bit of time and patience. There are several strategies though that can help attain success.

Set your dog for success. Placing the pee pad in the farthest corner of the house is like sending your dog on a treasure hunt through a maze, especially for small pups. Make it easy to find.
Make going potty on pee pads easy, fun and rewarding while making going potty in other areas, difficult, boring and close to impossible (courtesy of management and supervision).
If you must leave for the day or cannot supervise you puppy, keep your puppy confined inside a small enclosed pen with the pad strategically located at the opposite side from his bed, water bowl and toys. Most dogs do not like to soil near where they sleep, eat or drink, so their best choice is to use the pad.
Choose a spot for the pee pads and make sure to keep the location the same. Dogs are routine-oriented creatures so if you start changing around the location of the pee pad they start feeling confused. If you really must change, do it gradually over several days moving it a few inches at a time.
Pick a location that is quiet and with not many distractions going on.
Keep the pee pad on a surface that is easy to clean such as tile floor. If you must use carpet, place some tarp under it to prevent urine from seeping into the carpet.
The minute your pup positions himself to eliminate on the pad, be sure to say “go potty”so that he associates that word with the action of elimination.
Always lavishly praise and reward your dog or puppy for using the pee pad.
Never scold your puppy for missing the pad or going somewhere else. Scolding makes puppies associate your presence with punishment causing them to potty secretly out of sight behind a couch or under a bed.
Clean up all accidents with an enzyme-based cleaner that dissolves any traces of residual odors. Remember that to a dog, residual odors of previous accidents act as reminders of the past which may trigger them to urinate on them once again. While we use our eyes to locate a restroom, dogs use their noses.
If you are using the pee pads temporarily and then you are planning to let your dog potty outside grass, your best bet is to use a pee pad that smells like grass, or even better, use one of those fake grass litter boxes for dogs that provide the scent and feel of real grass. Also, placing the pad gradually closer and closer to the door can be helpful if your final objective is to get your dog to potty outdoors.
Once your puppy learns to reliably used the pads in his enclosure, you can gradually increase his confinement area (keeping the pads always in the same place) until he graduates to being left loose in the house and remembering where to go.

“House soiling quickly becomes a bad habit because dogs develop strong location, substrate, and olfactory preferences for their improvised indoor toilet areas.”~Ian Dunbar Dog Star Daily

References:

Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, 1e 1 Pap/DVD Edition, by Karen Overall MA VMD PhD DACVB CAAB, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
Dog Star Daily, Housetraining, retrieved from the web on Sept 15th, 2016.

Dog Word of the Day: Flirt Pole

October 6, 2016September 14, 2016 by Adrienne Farricelli

Among the many toys and gadgets purposely crafted for a dog’s entertainment, the flirt pole deserves a spot of honor as it can provide loads of fun and allows a great outlet for dogs who like to chase things. Not many stores are equipped with flirt poles, but they are becoming more and more popular as more and more dog trainers are suggesting them for dogs in need of expressing their prey drive in a non-destructive way. Since flirt poles increase exercise, they benefit dogs in many ways such as improving their balance and motor skills and strengthening those joints and muscles.

Introducing the Flirt Pole

Also known as “flirt stick,” a flirt pole can be described as the giant version of a classical cat toy where feathers are attached to a string to entice lazy kitties to play. This comparison after all, is not too bad, considering that the purpose is the same: to coax the animal to chase a fast moving object. A flirt pole though is a tad bit different. It’s best described as a pole made out of light wood or plastic with a lure attached at the end, quite similar in appearance to a fishing pole, only that unlike a fishing pole, the string cannot be retracted. The lure attached at the end usually consists of a toy, but can also be a rag, pieces of fleece or an animal’s hide.

Uses for Flirt Poles

Flirt poles can be used in different ways. The lure can be dragged on the ground to stimulate a dog to chase it around. The owner may stand still in one spot and move the lure snapping the pole around erratically, or by swinging the pole higher, the owner can entice the dog to jump in an effort to catch the lure, but be careful though, as this can hurt the dog’s joints, especially in young dogs who are developing. Always talk to your vet first before engaging your dog in jumping activities ans high-impact sports. A warm-up period is recommended to prevent muscle sprains. Here are some ideas on how to use the flirt pole.

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Flirt poles may come handy for puppies and young dogs who have lots of energy and live in small places. Make sure the area is clear of anything that can be knocked over.
Flirt poles can provide an alternative to chasing squirrels or wildlife.
It can make a fun rainy-day activity for bored, under stimulated dogs.
A flirt pole can be also used as a way to improve a dog’s performance in certain doggy sports.
Does your dog have too much energy on walks? Use a flirt pole to tire him out before a walk.
Use it to train toy-motivated dogs by allowing them to play with it after performing a wanted behavior.
Dogs can be taught to catch and release the lure on cue as done with tug toys. Praise your dog for catching and then ask to release. Then, resume the game. If you wish to attain better impulse control you can ask a dog to sit or lie down before resuming the game..
Use a flirt pole to work on the “stay” cue, “leave it” or “drop it” cue to improve your dog’s obedience training.
Keep it handy on walks, when you need to distract your dog from something that he focuses too much on.

A Word of Caution

Laser pointers, special gadgets that emit a small red dot of light that dogs chase around, have been known for causing obsessive behaviors in dogs. A main problem with laser toys is that they stimulate a dog’s nervous system triggering the chasing instinct, but since dogs never get a chance to physically catch the red dot, they never get a sense of closure and this can cause obsessive behaviors to put roots. “I’ve seen light chasing as a pathology where they will just constantly chase around a light or shadow and pounce upon it. They just spend their whole lives wishing and waiting,” explains Nicholas Dodman, veterinary behaviorist and professor at Tufts University Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine.

Flirt poles, on the other hand, are a preferable option as the dog actually is given the opportunity to interact with and catch the object at the end of the pole. It’s therefore important to allow the dog to eventually catch the lure and play with it every now and then, something dogs cherish doing since they ultimately never get to catch those squirrels in yard (hopefully)!

Did you know? Trainers of bomb and drug sniffing dogs know for a fact that fruitless searches where they never get to find anything may overtime cause them to become mentally drained. To prevent this mental fatigue from interfering with their jobs, trainers must occasionally take their dogs on dummy missions where they finally get to find something and are rewarded for it.

DIY Flirt Pole For Dogs

For those who like to hand craft their own things, a flirt pole can make an easy Do-It-Yourself project. Simply arm yourself with about 3 feet of PVC pipe and thread an 8 feet long rope through it making a double knot so that it doesn’t slide out of the pipe. Next, securely tie a toy such as a small stuffed animal at the end of the rope and you’re done! Don’t feel like making a flirt pole yourself? No worries, if your local pet shop doesn’t stock them, you can always find them in many online stores today who can deliver it straight to your door.

Did you know? Play behaviors which include elements from predatory behavior activate a dog’s endogenous reward system, explains Mechtild Käufe in the book “Canine Play Behavior: The Science Of Dogs At Play.”

References:

Canine Play Behavior: The Science Of Dogs At Play, Mechtild Käufe, Dogwise Publishing (22. Oktober 2014)

Photo Credits:

Exercise with flirt pole where dog runs to chase lure, Tranndee, CC BY-SA 3.0
Flirt pole used to condition dog for running and jumping, by Tranndee –CC BY-SA 3.0