Admin, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

I am Your Dog’s Pancreas

June 27, 2016April 4, 2016 by Admin

Many dog owners may not be aware of the existence of their dog’s pancreas until one day their dog gets very ill and the vet claims that the dog’s pancreas is inflamed. As with many other organs, the pancreas lives mostly in the shadow, until something goes wrong and dog owners are given an abrupt wake-up call about this organ’s existence. Just as in humans, the pancreas in dogs is a structure that carries some functions that go beyond digestion. So today, let’s take a closer look at a dog’s pancreas and discover some interesting facts coming straight from the pancreases’mouth!

Introducing Your Dog’s Pancreas

Hello! It’s your dog’s pancreas talking! You may not be too familiar with me, but rest assured, I am working hard each and every day to make sure your dog remains healthy and happy. Where am I located? You’ll find me nearby your dog’s stomach, more precisely, attached to the wall of your dog’s small intestine, right by the duodenum. I am overall a small structure compared to your dog’s stomach, but don’t underestimate me, as I do a whole lot!

I Aid in Digestion

Many people know that I play a role in digestion. Indeed, I produce important enzymes so to help your dog digest protein, starches and fats. To help digest protein, I produce trypsin and chymotrypsin. To help digest starch, I produce amylase. To help digest fats, I produce lipase. I send these enzymes to your dog’s small intestine (right by the duodenum, which lives just next door to me) through a small tube known as the “pancreatic duct.” Once here, these enzymes activate and break down your dog’s food into easy to assimilate molecules which provide nutrients that are readily absorbed by the cells lining your dog’s intestine. Nutrients are then passed from these cells into your dog’s bloodstream and spread out throughout the body where they’re utilized by various tissues.

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I Maintain Normal Sugar Levels

On top of helping your dog digest, I have special islet cells which produce hormones that help keep your dog’s blood sugar at an acceptable level. The glucose-regulating hormones that I produce are known as insulin and glucagon. I secrete these hormones into your dog’s bloodstream. You see, your dog may not eat sweets as you do, but when your dog eats foods rich in starches and carbs, these foods are then broken down into glucose which ends up in the bloodstream. When I produce insulin, the insulin helps remove the glucose from the bloodstream and directs it to the body’s tissues where it can be used as energy for the cells. If those levels of glucose are too high, the other hormone I produce (glucagon) helps store the surplus in the liver and muscles in the form of glycogen.

When Things Go Wrong

When I work well, your dog is healthy and happy. Courtesy of my digestive enzymes, your dog can easily digest as my enzymes help break down food into easy to assimilate components. When I become sluggish though, either because of being chronically inflamed or due to some inherited condition, I might not produce enough of these enzymes which may lead to pancreatic insufficiency, also known as exocrine pancreatic insufficiency or maldigestion syndrome.

What happens in this condition is that all those proteins, starches, and fats are no longer broken down which means they pass through the intestines without being absorbed and they leave the body under the form of feces containing undigested food. This means affected dogs miss out in receiving nutrients big time! These dogs develop diarrhea, start losing weight, their coats become dull and they lose muscle mass. Because food passes into their stools undigested, these dogs may engage in stool eating as the stools taste almost as good as food! These dogs are basically hungry and eating, yet they’re starving themselves of nutrients! Fortunately, treatment is pretty straightforward: borrowing some enzymes from other animals.

I sometimes may become inflamed. This tends to often occur after dogs eat a fatty meal. I am notorious for getting inflamed after the holidays, when dog owners feed their dogs fatty table scraps such as foods prepared in butter, fatty meat and greasy bacon. When I get acutely inflamed, I cause some pretty scary symptoms such as lack of appetite, vomiting, abdominal pain which causes many dogs to assume a hunched-up position. Basically, what happens here is that instead of my enzymes activating when they reach the small intestine, they activate prematurely as soon as I release them, causing inflammation to myself and my surrounding organs. In severe cases, my enzymes may even start digesting me! Talk about being in a dangerous situation! My inflammation is therefore not to be taken lightly as I can turn into a life threatening condition. And when I get chronically inflamed with an ongoing, low-grade inflammation, the damage sustained mat cause me to get sluggish in producing enzymes and hormones leading to the pancreatic insufficiency described above and diabetes.

“If a significant number of cells that produce digestive enzymes are destroyed, a lack of proper food digestion may follow. This is known as exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI). If a significant number of cells that produce insulin are destroyed, diabetes mellitus can result.” ~Dr. Ernest Ward

As seen, I carry out several tasks that help your dog stay healthy and in good shape, so don’t take me for granted! I hope this article has helped you understand me better! Best regards,

Your Dog’s Pancreas

References:

VCA Animal Hospital, What is Pancreatitis? retrieved from the web on April 4th, 2016
Pet Education, Pancreas: Anatomy & Digestive & Endocrine Functions in the Dog, by Dr. Race Foster, retrieved from the web on April 4th, 2016
Pet Education, Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency (Maldigestion Disorder) in Dogs, by Dr. Race Foster, retrieved from the web on April 4th, 2016
The Whole Dog Journal, Canine Pancreatitis, by Mary Straus, retrieved from the web on April 4th, 2016

Photo credits:

Wikipedia, Region of pancreas, public domain
Wikipedia, Section of pancreas of dog, Henry Vandyke Carter – Henry Gray (1918) Anatomy of the Human Body, public domain

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The Secret Behind the Samoyed’s Smile

August 17, 2016April 3, 2016 by Admin

The Samoyed dog breed is stunning for many reasons. One of the most stunning features of this breed is of course the white thick coat which protected these elegant dogs from the harsh -60 degree temperatures as sometimes witnessed in the Siberian town of Oymyakon. In the old days, Samoyeds were the working partners of the Samoyedic people of Siberia who survived by herding and breeding domestic reindeer. Another amazing feature of the Samoyed dog breed is the breed’s “smile,” a distinguishing trait that further adds to this breed’s appeal. Today, we’ll be discovering the secret behind the Samoyed’s smile.

A Matter of Standard

For a good reason the Samoyed dog breed is nicknamed as “smiley;” indeed, this dog breed really sports a “smile!” The smiling trait of this breed is even mentioned in the breed standard. According to the American Kennel Club standard for the Samoyed breed, the breed is required to have a muzzle of medium length that tapers towards the nose. The lips “should be black for preference and slightly curved up at the corners of the mouth, giving the “Samoyed smile.” The slightly curved mouth along with the sparkling eyes and attentive ears, give the breed what is known as the typically appealing “Samoyed expression.”

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The Function of the Smile

Why would a Samoyed need to sport a smile? Many may think that this breed was selectively bred this way just because it’s a cute trait that’s appealing to prospective dog owners, but in reality that “smile” has a function, and a very important one too! According to the American Kennel Club, the Samoyed’s perpetual smile has a practical purpose: those upturned corners keep these gorgeous dogs from drooling.

What’s the problem with drooling? Most dogs drool with no problems after all! Drooling may seem like an innocuous happening in the average domesticated dog living in a warm, cozy home, but it could turn particularly problematic in a dog living in a harshly cold climate as those droplets would quickly freeze and soon icicles would be forming on the Samoyed’s face!

A Friendly Dog by Nature

Putting the smile’s functional purpose aside, the Samoyed dog breed is a friendly dog by nature with a “jolly” sense of humor. Because of this breed’s gentle disposition, it’s not unusual to see them working as therapy dogs bringing a smile to children and senior citizens. According to standard, the Samoyed breed is smart, loyal and eager to do things. This is a dog breed that thrives on attention and wants to be in company of his family. These traits make this dog unsuitable for a family who is away for most of the day. Being left alone in a kennel all day or secluded in the yard, will make these sociable dogs deeply unhappy and prone to behavior problems. So prospective dog owners should make sure to keep these social dogs in good company so to keep these lovely dogs smiling inside and out!

References:

American Kennel Club, Samoyed Breed Standard, retrieved from the web on April 3rd, 2016
American Kennel Club, 10 Things you probably didn’t know about the smiling Samoyed, retrieved from the web on April 3rd, 2016

Photo Credits:

Alison and Fil, FamousShamus109, CC BY 2.0
Lori Branham, Samoyed, CC BY 2.0

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Unearthing Seven Surprising Reasons Why Dogs Dig

June 27, 2016April 2, 2016 by Admin

We are all familiar with a dog’s digging habits, but we might not be fully aware of what triggers a dog to dig in the first place. What’s exactly behind a dog’s digging behavior? To better understand what is truly going on, we may need to first get into our dogs’ heads. Until the day dogs can talk, we can only make assumptions, but we may get some hints by carefully observing what is happening as our dogs intently scratch the dirt with their paws as they work on building a whole golf course in a day. Interestingly, some reasons why dogs dig may surprise you. There are diggers and diggers in the canine world! What kind of digger is your dog?

1) The Hunter

If your dog is a hunter at heart, he may find digging to be an effective way to fulfill his instinctive needs. There are many small critters who like to burrow themselves underground such as mice, moles, groundhogs, voles and several types of tarantulas. If your dog sniffs, then starts digging, then pauses, listens, sniffs and then resumes digging, most likely he is relying on his senses to learn more about the whereabouts of these underground critters.

Among the vast array of dogs populating the planet, the small, determined terriers are likely to win the “digging dog prize.” Just think that the word “terrier” derives from the Latin word “terra” meaning earth. These feisty, short-legged dogs were selectively bred to “go to ground” digging through dens and burrows as they hunted down their dwellers.

Tip: Look for some safe, humane methods to fence the critters out of the yard. Provide your dog with interactive toys that will keep his mind mentally stimulated. For small terriers, consider enrolling them in fun “earth dog” trials.

2) The Gatherer

Not all dogs dig to hunt for underground critters, for some dogs, unearthing and gathering plants, bulbs, roots and all the like may be equally fun. Some dogs discover their “green thumb” after watching their owners gardening. So next time, your dog digs up your flower beds, hold you temper and refrain from the temptation to punish him. Chances are, he’s likely just imitating you!

Not too long ago, a study revealed that our canine companions are capable of copying our behaviors as long as 10 minutes after they happened. For some dogs though there may be more to it than mere imitation. To a puppy or a bored dog looking for stimulation, playing a game of “tug” with some sturdy tree roots may be fun enough to make digging them up totally worth it!

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Tip: fence up your garden and provide your dog a “digging zone” area where he can dig to his heart’s content. Your plants and your dog will thank you!

3) The Builder

If your dog is left out in the yard for the most part of the day, his digging may be his way of building himself up a shelter. Deprived from a heating or cooling system, he may need to figure out his own way to keep himself toasty warm or refreshingly cool.

In the summer, dogs may dig to build up a nice resting spot by exposing the cooler dirt. When these dogs lie down, they get to expose their belly to the cool soil. In the winter instead, dogs may dig holes in the dirt or snow to build their own den-like enclosures so they can stay warm. The best way to figure out if your dog is building holes to warm up or cool down? See if he’s lying down on them or inside them.

Tip: Provide your dog with an insulated dog house and extra blankets in the winter, and for the summer, provide cooling options such as a shaded area or a shallow wading pool. Even better, invite your dog inside to share your heating and cooling systems!

4) The Explorer

Some dogs dig just for the sake of exploring. Digging unravels an interesting world of intriguing scents and secret treasures. “When dogs dig, they aerosolize scents that may been hidden,” explains veterinary behaviorist Karen Overall, in the book “Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats.”With their powerful sniffers they therefore get to explore and keep their mind stimulated.

On top of that, digging may further prove to be rewarding when dogs unearth hidden treasures such as a forgotten toy or a bone the dog buried there several weeks ago. Many dogs who entertain themselves by digging are sporting/herding dogs looking for a “job.”

Tip: Want to unleash the explorer in your dog ? Fill up an old swimming pool with lots of sand and bury several toys under the sand. Then, watch your dog go on a fun treasure hunt! These dogs thrive on exercise and mental stimulation, so make sure to provide plenty. Oh, and for dogs who bury bones for later consumption, you can curb this tendency by providing treats that are likely to be consumed in one setting.

5) The Escapist

Where does your dog dig exactly? Believe it or not, the location where your dog digs can tell you what he may be up to. If the digging is particularly focused by the fence line, there are chances that he is digging himself a tunnel so he can escape from the yard.

Why would your dog want to escape? It could be because he feels lonely or bored, or perhaps he wants to hunt, explore or meet new friends on the other side of the fence. In some cases, digging by the boundaries may be a sign of separation anxiety if your dog does that when you leave the house.

Tip: You can bury chicken wire at the base of the fence keeping the sharp edges rolled up away from the yard; however, you may ultimately want to find a way to let your dog feel less lonely, bored or anxious.

6) The Attention Seeker

Does your dog dig the most when he’s in your company? If so, the digging may be triggered by a need for attention. It doesn’t matter if you are scolding your dog when he digs, for a dog who craves attention, any form of attention may do. Suspect this type of digging if your dog mostly digs in your presence and doesn’t receive much interaction from you during the day. Perhaps you are away for most of the day or you don’t pay much attention to your dog.

Fact is, many dog owners have a tendency to ignore their dogs when they’re calm and well behaved and give their dogs plenty of attention (of the negative type) when they’re misbehaving. Dogs soon learn this pattern which translates into the persistence of undesirable behaviors not because the dog enjoys the activities per se’, but because he enjoys the attention that comes along for the ride. Some dogs may even find the negative attention amusing to the point that they think it’s a fun game! This means it’s time to shift methods!

Tip: Reverse the use of your attention. Ignore the attention-getting digging, while you dole out loads of praise and attention when your dog doesn’t dig or engage in any other troublesome behaviors. Soon, your dog will learn that good behaviors yield the oh, so desired attention!

7) The Messengers

Some dogs take leaving “pee mail” to a whole new level. These are the dogs who will dig before they eliminate for the purpose of “aerosolizing” the dirt so they get to “read” the messages of dogs who were there prior to them. Other dogs will scratch the dirt with their back paws after they eliminate in hopes of adding further visual and olfactory components to their “outputs.”

Did you know? Dogs have sweat glands on their paw pads, and along with those, they also have sebaceous glands in between their toes. When they scratch, they are therefore likely to spread around these special glandular secretions, explains Jensen P. in the book “The Ethology of Domestic Animals: An Introductory Text.”

This type of dirt scratching is more likely to occur in places frequented by other dogs, so expect to see it more in places other than your property (unless your yard is not fenced and it’s often visited by other animals).

References:

The Ethology of Domestic Animals: An Introductory Text 1st Edition, by P. Jensen, CABI Publishing; 1st edition (August 8, 2002)
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, by Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
American Association for the Advancement of Science, Your Dog Is a Copycat, by Virginia Morell, retrieved from the web on April 2nd, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, John Collins, DSC_3594 (CC BY 2.0) edited to add title
Flickr Creative Commons, Joshua Ganderson, untitled (CC BY 2.0)

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What’s Your Dog’s Play Style?

December 2, 2016April 1, 2016 by Admin

Let’s face it: dog play can be quite entertaining to watch and its associated amusement can even beat the best television shows. Have you ever found yourself putting down the remove and shutting off the T.V. to watch your four-legged companions play? The best part is that every dog seems to have a preferred play style. There are dogs who love to chase, dogs who love to wrestle and dogs who are just satisfied to watch other dogs play while carefully monitoring their interactions. In a previous article we looked at the different meanings behind dog sleeping positions, today instead we’ll be discovering different play styles in dogs. Interestingly, there are several! How does your dog play?

The Referees

These dogs may not actively play among other dogs much. Instead, they’ll carefully monitor play sessions sticking by the edges of a group of dogs playing. Their main “play style” seems to entail following at a distance repeatedly barking at the players and swiftly intervening if things seem to get out of hand.

What triggers their intervention? Overly exuberant play or the first signs of a fight brewing may cause them to raise their yellow “penalty card” evoking them to get in between the dogs in an attempt to split things up or break up the fun.

Caution: While these dogs’ interventions may be helpful to split things up when dogs seem to not play “by the rules,” things can turn problematic when certain dogs don’t appreciate their “fun police” intrusions and get tired of having their movement controlled.

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“Herding dogs often assume the cheerleader or fun police role.” ~Pat Miller

The Chasers

These are dogs who love to romp around chasing other dogs or being the ones chased. They may do a play bow to initiate a chasing session or they may pick up a toy to entice a game of “keep away.” Then, off they go running around wildly.

Most dogs cannot resist a game of chase when one dog takes off asking to be chased. Dogs may even take turns in a tag-like fashion and sometimes play “freeze tag” where they stop and go, stop and go. Herding breeds may add their personal twist to the game and also add staring, stalking and nipping the heels of the dog being chased in the mix.

Many dogs do not mind being chased, but some may get a bit nervous especially when they are cornered. Keep an eye on the body language of the dog being chased. If his tail is low and he is trying to hide somewhere with his ears flattened or paw raised up, there are chances he’s intimidated by the game.

Not too sure if the dog being chased is having fun? Here’s a good test to find out. Gently restrain the chasing dog and see if the dog being chased runs right back to the chaser for more play.

Caution: chasing can be contagious! Keep an eye on dogs joining in and chasing down a single dog as seen in the picture! Also, use extra caution with large dogs chasing small dogs; predatory drift is a dangerous phenomenon that can be easily avoided by simply dividing play mates by sizes. Don’t take the risk!

“A dog that is having fun chasing is relaxed and loose. The dog that becomes predatory looks stiff, fixated and intense.” Robin K. Bennet

The Rugby Players

Some dogs like to play hard and their passion may be body slamming at full speed against others dogs and even flipping them over. These dogs enjoy full-contact play which can be fun if they find another buddy with a similar play style, but the problem is that not all dogs are accepting of this rough play style.

The body slams and hip checks may be perceived as frightening to smaller dogs, old dogs, and puppies which can get hurt or end up being bullied, cautions dog trainer Jolanta Benal.

Caution: dogs who do not find this type of contact sport acceptable may respond by lunging or snapping and things can take a turn for the worse.

It’s a good idea to train rough-and -tumble dogs a solid “leave it” or a recall so they can be re-directed before things get out of hand.

The Wrestlers

As the name implies, these dogs seem to mimic a wrestling match with dogs jumping up and pawing at each other. This play style entails mostly vertical play. Along with the pawing, there’s often also big displays of teeth where dogs take turns biting on faces and necks, a behavior that many dog owners refer to as “bitey faces.”

These players are often great in inhibiting their bites and despite how vicious they look, it’s for the most part harmless play. You may sometimes stumble on hounds who will chase dogs and then they’ll start wrestling, ending the matches with fearsome growls and playful mock attacks aiming for the throat.

Many sporting and working breeds, along with the larger terriers, may enjoy this type of play.

Caution: as with rugby players, this style of play requires close monitoring to check how other dogs are perceiving it.

The Tuggers

Some dogs are particularly passionate about tug-of-war games and they’ll encourage other dogs to play by shoving their tug toy near their faces. Despite what you may have heard in the past, this game has little to do with “dominance’ but more about just having fun.

Indeed, you’ll often see large dogs “self-handicapping” when playing it with a smaller or younger dog. This game is reminiscent of ancient times, dating back centuries prior to when tug toys were invented.

Indeed, in the old days a dog’s ancestors were playing games of tug by using remnants of pieces of hides of killed animals.

Caution: this game puts dog faces close to each other and there may be some inevitable moments of direct eye contact. Watch the game as some dogs may not be comfortable with this. Also, keep an eye open for signs of resource guarding.

The Batters

You often see this play style in small, toy breed dogs or in dogs who lack confidence or have a history of being intimidated by rowdy play. These dogs engage in cat-like play where they will be gently batting other dogs’ faces with their paws and engage in other forms of soft play.

Some dogs may have converted to this play style because of some physical impairment such as arthritis or other orthopedic problem.

Caution: These dogs do best playing with appropriately sized playmates or other dogs who match their play style as wrestling, body slamming may be too much for them physically or emotionally.

As seen, there are many different play styles in dogs, but you may find that many like to combine many of the above and some dogs may have some quite unique play styles. How does your dog play? Regardless of the type of play that dogs engage in, the most important factor is to make sure everyone is having fun! A good way to dog this is by hand picking dogs that make good, compatible play mates.

References:

Quick and Dirty Tips: Dog Play Styles and Aggression, by Jolanta Benal, retrieved from the web on April 1st, 2016.
Play with Your Dog, by Pat Miller, Dogwise Publishing (July 1, 2008)
Off Leash Dog Play: A Complete Guide to Safety and Fun, by Robin Bennett, CPDT and Susan Briggs, CKO, Dogwise Publishing (January 1, 2008)

Photo Credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, Ha, Gotcha! by Eileen, CC BY 2.0
Flickr, Creative Commons, Taro the Shiba Inu, nori chases harley, CC BY 2.0

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Discovering the Amazing Vision of Sighthounds

June 27, 2016March 31, 2016 by Admin

Sighthounds are fascinating dogs with a history of being selectively bred for hunting by sight and speed, which is in contrast with scenthounds who were selectively bred to hunt by scent and endurance. Also known as gazehounds, sighthounds are talented dogs who come equipped with special features that distinguish them from other dogs, making them quite unique masterpieces of nature. One of their most remarkable features are their eyes, which unlike other dogs, have some distinct traits which allowed them to excel in what they were bred for.

A Look Back in History

Sighthounds are dogs who are believed to descend from ancient specimens originating in Africa, or possibly Arabia. Their habitats for the most part consisted of wide-open lands in the desert. Their main job was to hunt down and chase prey animals such as deer or hare running across the desert. Upon spotting prey with their keen sense of sight, these dogs had to sprint into action often reaching speeds of just over 40 miles per hour.

The practice of hare coursing (sighthounds chasing hare) for hunting or sporting purposes was popular in Europe and restricted to landowners and the aristocrats, considering that back then, owning sighthounds was prohibited to any members of lower social classes. Because sighthounds have a history of mostly working at a distance from humans with very little guidance, most sighthounds are considered “independent thinkers.”

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A Matter of Visual Streak

Spotting prey animals across wide open lands required special vision. The eyes of sighthounds are known for having a “visual streak”. What exactly is a visual streak? It’s a horizontally aligned area in the retina lined up with ganglion cells. Not too long ago, there was belief that all dogs had their ganglion cells distributed in such a way, but a study conducted by Paul McGreevey,Alison Harman and Grassi T. D, revealed that only dogs with long noses have a visual streak. Turns out, dogs with short noses such as pugs, Pekignese and Boston terrier instead have their ganglion cells densely packed in one spot called the “area centralis.” The visual streak is therefore a characteristic of dogs with long muzzles who needed to rely on their peripheral vision to hunt.

“The coursing breeds—Greyhounds, Salukis, and other hounds developed to scan vast expanses of desert—are the prototypical visual-streak breeds. Not for nothing are they called sighthounds.”~Bud Boccone

Field of Vision

The field of vision varies between animals and depends to a great extent on eye placement. Generally, among prey animals (think cows, zebras and horses) the eyes are set wide apart so to allow them the widest field of vision possible (especially when they are grazing) so that they can watch for danger in all directions. This lateral eye placement also allows them to watch in two directions at once. Predators, on the other hand (think cats, primates and owls) have eyes that are placed closer in front of the face which instead allows them more depth perception, something that comes handy when they need to track and pounce on their prey.

“Eyes in the front, the animal hunts. Eyes on the side, the animal hides.”

Interestingly, when it comes to sighthounds, they are an exception to the rule. Their narrow heads allow their eyes to be quite lateral which gives them quite an impressive field of vision. A greyhound is know for having a field of vision of up to 270 degrees, which is quite impressive compared to us humans who have a mere 180 degree field of vision. The greyhound even beats other dogs, considering that the average dog has a field of vision around 250 degrees. Therefore despite being carnivores, it can be said that sighthounds have a herbivore field of view. Most likely, this feature was crafted in such a way so to allow them to scan the horizon at a distance in search of the slightest movement of prey.

“The theory that the hunting animal (dog) has a more anterior ocular placement than the hunted (i,e rabbit) does not seem appropriate when looking at the greyhound, which is reportedly a “sighthound ” with marked lateral placement of its eyes. ” ~ David W. Hobson

References:

A Strong Correlation Exists between the Distribution of Retinal Ganglion Cells and Nose Length in the Dog, by McGreevy P. · Grassi T.D. · Harman A.M, Brain Behav Evol 2004;63:13–22
American Kennel Club, A New Look at Canine Vision, by Bud Boccone, retrieved from the web on March 31st, 2016.
Museum of Osteology, How to “Read” a Skull: Eye Placement and Size, retrieved from the web on March 31st, 2016.
Dermal and Ocular Toxicology: Fundamentals and Methods, by Hobson, CRC Press; 1 edition (September 6, 1991)
Greenhounds, What is a sighthound? retrieved from the web on March 31st, 2016.

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Dog Word of the Day: Self-Handicapping

June 27, 2016March 30, 2016 by Admin

In human psychology, self-handicapping is a term used to depict those situations where people make excuses for their poor performances so to justify their potential failure, and therefore, protect their self esteem, but in the dog world, the term self-handicapping has a quite different meaning. In dogs, self-handicapping is mostly seen in social situations, and its most relevant application is seen during play. If you ever frequented a dog park or watched dogs of different sizes play, you may have perhaps seen this endearing phenomenon take place many times.

Dog Playing Versus Fighting

Dog play often incorporates elements that are drawn from other “serious” behavior contexts. There may be elements seen in hunting (stalking, pouncing, chasing), elements seen in fighting (growling, snapping, biting) and sometimes even elements seen in courtship and mating (mounting). As in children play, puppy play often entails enactments of things dogs will be doing in their adult lives (there are also patterns that are unique to play though). What differentiates play from real fighting though? How can dogs communicate playful intentions, without getting in trouble with other dogs?

For starters, well-socialized dogs use meta-communication signals (meta-signals) which are meant to tell the other dogs that they are playing and that anything that follows is not to be taken seriously. A common example of a meta-signal is the quintessential play-bow, which in a sort of way is the equivalent of a child saying “let’s pretend!” This signal informs the other dog that anything that follows is just play and it’s not to be taken seriously. Other than using meta-signals, dogs who have learned to play appropriately know that in order to keep play safe and from getting out of hand, they must fine-tune their tactics and inhibit/restrain themselves so to prevent conflict which may arise when there is too much loss of control.

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Adjusting Play Styles

When dogs play together, there are chances that one dog is much bigger, stronger, healthier, more confident or faster than the other, and if no restraint occurs, this bigger, faster and stronger dog may eventually end up not playing fairly, or worse, frightening or hurting his play mate. Fortunately, on top of inhibiting themselves as they do normally with dogs who are similar to them, dogs have also shown the capability of adjusting their play styles when they sense that a playmate is disadvantaged in some way. This adjustment in play style that occurs when a play partner is perceived weaker, younger, or less motivated, is known as “self-handicapping.” Following are some examples of dogs engaging in self-handicapping behaviors:

“Self-handicapping occurs when individuals place themselves in disadvantaged positions or situations that could make them more vulnerable to attack by ‘opponents.” Camille Ward et al.

Examples of Dog Self-Handicapping Behaviors

A dog with superior abilities plays the role of being the weaker party. You may see this when a large dog “turns the tables” and allows a smaller dog to chase him as seen often in role-reversals. In such an instance, self-handicapping may occur simultaneously with role reversal.
A dog with superior abilities puts himself in disadvantageous positions or situations. An adult dog may keep his head lower or stay in a vulnerable belly-up position when he plays with a puppy.
A dog with superior abilities adjusts his playing style to facilitate the play partner. The stronger dog may tug more gently with a dog that’s half his size.
A dog plays with a cat by lying down on the floor and engaging in very light paw touches and gentle mouthing behaviors.
Dogs may also engage in self-handicapping when they play play with us! You may see it in particular when they play with children (but don’r rely on your dog’s judgement, always, always, always supervise all dog/children interactions to be safe!)

Keeping the Game Alive

What’s the function of self-handicapping?Why would a dog give his playmate a competitive advantage? Most likely because it shows playful intent and keeps the game going. When a stronger, faster or bigger dog decides to put himself at a disadvantage, he’s likely doing so to keep his opponent “in the game.” It’s similar to a father who kicks the ball lightly and allows his child to win every now and then.

In dogs we might never know if there are any similar “altruistic” emotions going on, but it’s function appears to be to keep the interaction going and keep play session alive. The ability to self-handicap in dogs has likely a learned component. Like a small child pointing out to an older child “you play too rough!” a small dog might yelp or retreat to warn the bigger dog to play nice. Reminiscent of his past as a puppy when in the litter his siblings might have acted the same way, along with reminders from other past play sessions with dogs, the larger dog likely gets the message and make adjustments so to “play nicer.”

“From a functional perspective, self-handicapping and role-reversing, similar to using specific play invitation signals or altering behavioural sequences, might serve to signal an individual’s intention to continue to play.”~ Marc Bekoff

The Bottom Line

Self-handicapping is sure an endearing behavior to watch, but not all dogs know how to apply it. Self-handicapping is a voluntary behavior that requires the dog’s ability to judge his playmate’s abilities and then make the necessary adjustments to maintain the play session worthy of continuing for both parties. This requires a great level of self-control in the midst of play which can become difficult to gauge when arousal levels get high. It’s a learning process that may take time as dogs mature and learn to control themselves better. Dog owners though can help by teaching their dogs better emotional control through structured games such as Ian Dunbar’s Jazz up and Settle Down game and by stepping in when their play with other dogs gets too rough.

“Self handicapping requires a lot of emotional control, and the irony about play is that part of its fun is that we can throw aside some of our inhibitions and lose a little bit of control. I suspect this is where a lot of dogs get into trouble. ~Patricia McConnell

Did you know? A study has shown that during play among litter mates, male puppies self-handicapped when playing with females more frequently than females self-handicapped with males. For example, the pups would lick the female pup’s muzzles giving them a chance to bite them or they suddenly would flop to the ground ” like a boxer down for the count.”

“We know that in feral dog populations, female mate choice plays a role in male mating success, perhaps males use self-handicapping with females in order to learn more about them and to form close relationships with them — relationships that might later help males to secure future mating opportunities,”said Ward, in the study.

References:

Revisiting Play Elements and Self-Handicapping in Play: A Comparative Ethogram of Five Old World Monkey Species, by Milada Petru et al, Journal of Comparative Psychology, Vol. 123, No. 3, 250 –263
Partner preferences and asymmetries in social play among domestic dog, Canis lupus familiaris littermates, Camille Ward, Erika B. Bauer, Barbara B. Smuts, Animal Behaviour Volume 76, Issue 4, October 2008, Pages 1187–1199
Social Play Behaviour Cooperation, Fairness, Trust, and the Evolution of Morality, by Marc Bekoff, retrieved from the web on March 30th, 2016
The Other End of the Leash, Play and Self-Handicapping, by Patricia McConnell, retrieved from the Web on March 30th, 2016.
NBS News, When Puppies Play, It’s Ladies First, By Jennifer Viegas, retrieved from the Web on March 30th, 2016.

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The Mystery of the Dog’s Sneezing Fits

September 24, 2016March 29, 2016 by Admin

The fact that dogs are shorter than us and carry their heads low, as they go on their sniffing adventures, makes them prone to sometimes inhaling foreign particles that may irritate their airways. Thankfully, when irritating particles are inhaled, the dog’s body does a pretty decent job in trying to get rid of them through forceful sneezing fits. Those involuntary and powerful expulsions of air coming from the lungs in many cases are successful in dislodging mucus which has trapped the foreign particles from inside the nose. However, things can be tricky sometimes.

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There is a certain type of grass, that, because of the design of its spikelets, will make it particularly difficult for the dog to expel despite a dog’s repeated snorting and violent sneezing. Can you name what type of grass this is?

A: Spear grass

B: Tall Fescue grass

C: Perennial ryegrass

D: Kikuyugrass

The correct answer is:

The correct answer is: A, spear grass, better known as foxtail grass.

What are Foxtails?

Every late spring and early summer, vacant lots, hiking trails and fields fill up with herbaceous plants that produce foxtails. Also known as spear grass, a foxtail is produced by many types of plants, the most common species being Alopecurus, Hordeum, Stipa (black oat grass) and Setaria. The original purpose of foxtails are not to be harmful; their spikelets are simply meant to attach to the fur of animals passing by so their seeds can be dispersed and implanted into the soil. In wild animals sharing the same habitat with the foxtail, the fur is generally short enough so that eventually the foxtail dislodges and successfully disperses its seeds. Problems start when the foxtail burrows itself in places it shouldn’t. Once burrowed, the foxtail’s barbs cause it to migrate in one direction (always forward, never backwards) where it creates a multitude of problems.

“They are sharp enough to enter tissue and have barbs that cause them to migrate in one direction if they enter the body.”~Dr. Zwingenberge, veterinary radiologist at the University of California-Davis.

Foxtail extracted from dog's nose — Foxtail extracted from dog’s nose

In dogs, the foxtail may lodge in the most inconspicuous places. They may lodge into the dog’s nose, into the mouth, inside the ear canals, under the eye lid, and even under the skin such as the skin between the toes or the armpit and rear ends areas. The foxtail’s tendency to migrate once under the skin, wrecks havoc in the dog’s body triggering inflammation, infection and pain. In some cases even death.

For instance, a foxtail that ends up swallowed by the dog may lodge in the dog’s pharyngeal area causing gagging, coughing and swelling in the neck. A foxtail that’s inhaled by the dog, may cause sneezing and respiratory distress, if it reaches the brain, it can cause seizures and if it reaches the lungs it can cause pneumonia. When the foxtail reaches the ear, the dog may be repeatedly scratching, shaking and tilting the head. A foxtail lodged in the eye requires immediate attention. It can cause pawing at the eye, squinting and redness.When the foxtail lodges under the skin, for instance in the webbing between the toes, the dog may be seen repeatedly licking an area and it may cause local swelling and limping.

“Any kind of plant awn could potentially be a problem, but the classic foxtail seems to be the worst.” ~Dr. Catherine Dyer

As seen, foxtails are a big problem for dogs! The best thing to do is to avoid areas where these grasses that produce them grow (especially when they are dry) and carefully groom the dog after an outing to make sure that none have attached somewhere. Make sure you check the ears, the nose, between the toes, the armpits, under the tail and rear end/genital areas! If you suspect your dog has a foxtail anywhere, consult with your vet at once. As the saying goes” an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

References:

DVM360, A Guide to finding foxtails, by Dr. Allison Zwingenberger, retrieved from the web on March 29th, 2016
The Whole Dog Journal, Beware of Foxtail Seeds This Summer, by C. C. Holland, retrieved from the web on March 29th, 2016

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I am Your Dog’s Hip Joint

June 27, 2016March 28, 2016 by Admin

The main function of your dog’s hip joint is to attach the rear legs to the rest of the body and support the weight of your dog’s body whether he’s standing or moving around. In the world of dogs, hips play an important role in locomotion and when things don’t go as they should, bad hips can trigger crippling lameness and painful arthritis of the dog’ joints. Discovering the important role hips play in a dog’s life is not only a matter of satisfying one’s curiosity, but it is also educational, so that, as dog owners, we can learn how to prevent problems and recognize early signs of trouble so that we can report them to our veterinarians in a timely matter for assistance. So today, our dogs’ hip joints take the spot of honor, so let’s listen to their story.

Introducing Your Dog’s Hip Joint

Hello, it’s your dog’s hip joint talking! Many tend to think of me as a single unit, and for a certain sense I am, but if you look closely I am actually the “junction” of two important bones, the femur and the pelvis. I am known to be a “ball-and-socket joint” and there’s a good reason why. The head of the femur bone (the acetabulum) is shaped like a ball and it fits snugly into the socket of the pelvis. This is a work of art of Mother Nature, as these bones are crafted to match each other perfectly.

I am also known for being a “synovial joint.” Because bone-to-bone contact can be problematic in the long run, I am protected in various ways to prevent friction. Firstly, the articular surfaces where the bones meet, are made of a layer of smooth, compact bone. On top of that, a smooth layer of spongy cartilage (articular cartilage) covers the surfaces of the bones where they rub together offering the right amount of cushioning to avoid friction. For sake of comparison, this surface works like the Teflon coating that you would find on pans. Thirdly, in the space between the joint, you’ll find a multi-layered joint capsule which encloses synovial fluid. This type of fluid keeps me well lubricated to further prevent friction between the bones.

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subluxated hip joint — Subluxated hip joint

When Things Go Wrong

When all goes well, I move smoothly and offer stability and a wide range of motion in your dog’s day-to-day activities. Things become problematic though when I am not structured as I should. Veterinary surgeon R.D. Montgomery explains that puppies are born with a good pair of hips but things then start going downhill during the developmental stage when there’s “a disparity between primary muscle mass and too rapid growth of the skeleton.” When things go south, I become unstable and eventually dislocate (subluxate) and the snug ball-and-socket fit is gone, leading to a condition known as “hip dysplasia.” You see, when there is a loose fit between the bones, there is lots of wear and tear because the ball (acetabulum) is not housed in the socket as it should causing the accelerated destruction of articular cartilage.

While many large breed dogs are predisposed to develop chronic problems with me due to conformation, sometimes acute subluxations occur as a result of an accident. In these acute cases, I have good chance of recovering if I am taken care of immediately. In cases of chronic hip dysplasia though I may need to be managed medically or through surgery in severe cases. You see, when I experience a subluxation, I try to remedy to the situation as best as I could by trying to lay down more cartilage, but this takes a loooong time, and unfortunately, by then, the inflammation and pain associated with osteoarthritis may have likely already set in. The more inflammation, the more damage occurs.

Affected dogs will do the best they can to not move me as it’s painful, and this often entails moving stiffly when getting up, problems jumping or climbing stairs, a swiveling movement of the hips or bunny hopping, where the dog moves both back legs together instead of swinging them alternately. Some dogs may also keep their legs close together to recompensate for the weak hips as you can see in the picture on the left. When dogs compensate by using their bodies in other ways, this can lead to soft tissue problems. Also, because dogs may not move their back legs as they normally would and they may be reluctant to exercise, their muscles in the hip area may start wasting as seen in a picture in the next paragraphs below.

Keep Me in Good Shape!

Hip dysplasia has been thought to be a heritable condition, meaning that it is passed down from a generation to another, but new research is showing that the environment can also play a role. If you want to up the chances of keeping me in good shape, you need to really be careful, especially when your puppy is growing. For example, neutering too young may put me at risk for problems. A study found that early neutering almost doubled the chances for hip dysplasia in Golden retrievers. Rapid weight gain due to excessive calories and free feeding, injuries or overexertion at a young age or inappropriate supplementation with vitamins and minerals are also predisposing factors. Jumping activities such as playing Frisbee with a puppy under the age of one year, may be risky business considering that my growth plates are still under construction. Consult with your vet for a proper exercise program for your pup.

“In puppies that exercise heavily the laxity is exacerbated and the joint is traumatized by the abnormal motion and impact of repeated subluxations and reductions. This trauma is further exacerbated by increased body weight, causing the joint to withstand even more force. “~ R.D. Montgomery, veterinary surgeon.

What About Older Dogs?

In older dogs who are already affected by hip dysplasia, weight control is always a plus, less weight mean less strain on me as I don’t need to carry those extra pounds. Exercise is good because you want to keep those muscles strong as they help stabilize me. Stop exercising your dog, and you may see the effects of muscle wasting as seen in the dog in the picture. Moderation though is key. Consult with your vet for guidelines on how much exercise and what kind is good for your dog. Most vets seem to agree that swimming and leash walks are good for me, while running and jumping are too high impact and cause me stress and the release of inflammatory mediators which worsen the degenerative process and trigger pain. On top of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, many vets suggest glucosamine supplements to minimize the degenerative process. Ask your vet on what you can do help me.

The Importance of Testing Me

Those folks interested in breeding large dogs, better test me before breeding their dogs. It’s important that breeders keep this in mind and arrange things accordingly. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals provides owners with scores that will tell them how good or bad I look based on x-rays. However, don’t just assume that everything is fine if your breeding pair have both impeccable scores. Sometimes, in a blue moon, a puppy will still pop up with bad hips no matter how good those parent’s hips are!

“Sometimes the mother and father of the affected puppy are negative for the disease. If this is the case, the parents may have hidden genes for the disease.”~Dr. Daniel A. Degner, Board-certified Veterinary Surgeon.

In dogs not meant for breeding, testing me is also important. Your vet can have an idea of in what general state I am when he flexes and extends your dog’s back leg and watches for signs of pain. Your vet may perform the Barlow maneuver, Ortolani test, or in your pups, the Barden test, to check me out, but these tests are often better done when the dog is sedated and I am relaxed ( a dog’s tense muscles may stabilize me temporarily). Upon conducting these tests, the vet will pay attention to any grinding or crunching feelings when he moves me around. Again, an x-ray of me can give the vet a better “picture” of how I look like so he can make the best decisions for your dog.

As seen, I am very a very important joint! I hope this article has helped you understand me a bit better! If your dog ever suffers from any trauma or injury, take him to the vet as soon as possible. Early intervention in acute luxations can really help a whole lot and reduce future problems. For chronic problems, keep in mind that proper diet, exercise, supplements and pain relief, may help slow down the advancement of degenerative arthritis. Hopefully, a day will come when the disease can be better controlled, in the meanwhile, keep an eye on your dog and watch for signs of trouble.

Yours truly,

Your Dog’s Hip Joint

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has hip problems, consult with your vet for advice and recommendations.

References:

Torres; de la Riva, G; Hart, BL; Farver, TB; Oberbauer, AM; Messam, LLM; Willits, N; et al. (2013). “Neutering Dogs: Effects on Joint Disorders and Cancers in Golden Retrievers”. PLoS ONE 8 (2): e55937.doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0055937

DVM360, Canine hip dysplasia (Proceedings) by R.D. Montgomery, retrieved from the web on March 28th, 2016.

Vet Surgery Central Total Hip Replacement, by Daniel A. Degner, retrieved from the web on March 28th, 2016.

Photo Credits:

Types of misalignments of femur head to socket in hip dysplasia. Original uploader was Londenp at nl.wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, edited for details
A Labrador Retriever standing with hind legs close together to compensate for hip dysplasia by Malinaccier, public domain
Atrophy of thigh muscle after a two-year evolution of hip dysplasia L. Mahin – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0

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Discovering Why Dogs Bunny Hop when Running

June 27, 2016March 27, 2016 by Admin

It’s not a common sight, but when you see a dog bunny hopping you may be wondering what may cause such an unusual gait. Just for clarification, a dog who is bunny hopping is picking up his back legs at the same time, a movement that reminds us of how rabbits hop. It’s often seen in young dogs, but sometimes can be seen in older ones too. Because there are some medical conditions that may cause a dog to run this way, it’s always a good idea to stop by the vet for an assessment just to play it safe before assuming it’s just a cute quirk that will possibly go away as the puppy matures.

Hopping Through Grass

Sometimes, you may stumble on videos of dogs happily hopping through a tall field of grass almost as if they were the canine personification of a kangaroo. In this case, the dogs look like they may be pouncing, a hunting strategy used by predators to hunt down some small critter, perhaps a rodent. The pouncing may help the dog flush the critter out from its hiding spot so it can be caught. Some dogs will also instinctively do the bouncing/hopping behavior when a ball ends up being tossed in tall grass. It’s sure a fun behavior to watch! See the video below for a fun video of a dog hopping and pouncing through tall grass.

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A Case of Puppy Zoomies

In some cases, hopping like a bunny is simply a sign of a puppy who is playing and acting excited. Many dog owners report that their puppies bunny hop when they are happy and have a bout of zoomies. These puppies are simply having lots of fun and will run like rabbits arching their backs and tucking their rear legs under as they speed as fast as lightening. Even when getting x-rays done, many owners of puppies and young dogs claim that their vets found to nothing medically wrong with their dogs’ joints.

“I wouldn’t say that bunny hopping would make me concerned,” says veterinarian Dr. Marie on her Ask a Vet Question website. However, if there are signs of pain such as limping or whining when walking or jumping then the situation may be more concerning, she remarks.

“Bunny hopping is a descriptive term that is often at least part of a normal gait in many dogs, often young ones.” Dr. Peter Bennett

A Temporary Glitch

There is a reason why young dogs are often the ones seen bunny hopping: they are in the a transitional period of their development. As the dog is rapidly growing and adapting to his body, the developmental process can be awkward, explains veterinarian Eric Barchas.

The good news is the puppy goofiness and lack of coordination stage is often short-lived and the young dog may outgrow the bunny hopping as he matures. Generally, bunny hopping is only seen occasionally when the puppy plays, but if it seems to be persistent or if the puppy appears stiff, it’s always a good idea to check with a vet. Determining if the pup is just going through normal development or the bunny hopping may be an early sign of something else can be tricky. “This can be a difficult call in the large and giant breed pups because they are usually so gangly and awkward at this stage anyway” says Dr. Melj, a graduate of the University of MN College of Vet Med.

A Hip Dysplasia Problem

An orthopedic problem that could cause a bunny hop gait in dogs when running or climbing stairs, is hip dysplasia. Hip dysplasia is a condition that is most commonly seen in larger dog breeds and occurs when the dog has a loose-fitting hip joint that leads to abnormal wear and tear, eventually causing arthritis with its associated (and much dreaded) inflammation and pain. The condition arises from the abnormal development of the puppy’s hip joint. Genetics are often the main factor to blame, but environmental factors may also play a role. Dogs who are affected by forms of moderate to severe hip dysplasia may show signs as early as 4 months of age.

“Clinical signs of hip dysplasia can be seen as early as 4 months of age, however, many dogs are 8 to 12 months of age. Bunny hopping, stiffness on rising after a rest, lameness on a limb, and atrophy of the muscles of the hind limbs are typical clinical signs.” ~Dr. Daniel A. Degner, Board-certified Veterinary Surgeon.

A Possible Patella Problem

While large dogs are more prone to get hip dysplasia, small dogs are more prone to a medical condition known as luxating patella. In this case, what happens is that the knee cap (patella) pops out of its groove. Affected dogs may be seen bunny hopping or running on three legs, sometimes shifting the back legs, explains veterinarian Dr. Gary. Also known as luxated knee cap, floating kneecap or trick knee, this condition is graded into 4 degrees of severity ranging from a stifle joint that appears almost normal to a disabling degree where the patella is dislocated all of the time and requires surgical correction.

“An owner typically notices a little skip or ‘bunny hop’ in their dog’s step. The dog may even run on three legs, holding one hind leg up, and then miraculously be back on four legs as if nothing has happened. “ Adobe Veterinary Center

Other Possible Causes

What can cause a bunny hop in a dog who has had x-rays and no signs of hip problems were found? Something to consider is that x-rays can be subjective, points out veterinarian Dr. Andy, a UC Davis graduate. A veterinarian specializing in radiology can sometimes find things on x-rays that a general practitioner may miss. Other possible causes for bunny hopping other than hip dysplasia or floating knees may include growing pains, a tear of a dog’s cruciate ligament (more limping though than bunny hopping in this case), or a soft tissue injury. In some cases, vets may prescribe a trial of non steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs to determine if there may be some form of inflammatory process going on. Other possible causes for bunny hopping in dogs also may include disorders of the nervous system. According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, bunny hopping may be a sign of spinal dysraphism causing neurological symptoms by 4 to 6 weeks of age or protozoal polyradiculoneuritis causing bunny hopping by 3 to 8 weeks of age. As seen, bunny hopping can have many causes, and a stop by the vet is warranted for a diagnosis or to simply rule them out.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog or puppy is bunny hopping, please see your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

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The Hunting Technique of the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever

November 23, 2016March 26, 2016 by Admin

The Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever is the smallest member among the retrieving breeds and people often mistaken this dog for a small golden retriever. Unlike other retrievers though, this breed has a unique hunting style that makes it stand out from the crowd. As the name implies, this breed specializes in hunting down ducks, but what makes this dog quite remarkable is the way these dogs interact with them. The job of most retrievers is to simply retrieve downed birds and return them to the owner, hopefully delivering them with a soft mouth. The duck tolling retriever instead adds a special twist to duck hunting, bringing the art of duck hunting to a whole new level.

The Duck Decoy Dog

The Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever engages in what hunters refer to as “tolling.” No, this has nothing to do with those pricey highway or bridge fees!

The term instead refers to a hunting practice that relies on luring waterfowl with the use of decoys. After all, in order to hunt ducks, one must first find a way to attract them, otherwise countless hours would be spent hiding behind a bush!

Decoys can come in many shapes and forms, the most popular perhaps being lifelike ducks meant to catch the attention of passing ducks. The people of Nova Scotia though depended on very special decoys, small, fox-like dogs who made the art of “tolling” a way of life.

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Did you know? The definition of the term tolling derives from the Middle English word “tollen” which means””to draw” or “entice.”

Curiosity Killed the Duck

How can a dog attract ducks? It doesn’t really make sense that a dog would attract ducks considering that they are prey. It appears that the Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever must have borrowed a special hunting technique from the astute fox.

Red foxes are known for prancing around the shoreline when ducks are at a distance. Being curious animals or perhaps, seeking out a way to harass their natural enemy, the ducks start swimming close to the shore.

Too bad that they get so close they end up turning into dinner when another fox hiding in the grass swiftly pounces on them with cutting edge precision.

Bruce Fogle, on page 84, in the book ‘The Dog’s Mind” also mentions about wolves possibly engaging in a similar behavior when hunting down rabbits. He talks about naturalists who mention wolves using frivolous play antics to intrigue rabbits to move towards them, thus, reducing their escape distance. Michael Fox, in the book “Dog Body, Dog Mind: Exploring Canine Consciousness and Total Well-Being,” says ethologists refer to the curious behavior as “fascination behavior.”

Taking a Toll

In a similar fashion, the Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever attracts ducks. There’s belief that hunters took advantage of the duck’s behavioral quirk to use dogs that resembled foxes to do the “shoreline dance.”

These dogs will prance along the shoreline with their flashy white markings, light feet, and upward tail-tip, appearing and then suddenly disappearing from the shore, until they grab the attention of a group of ducks who are rafting or flying at a distance.

The hunters, hiding in a concealed spot, may further encourage the dog to prance around by tossing him a ball or a stick along the shore.

Intrigued by the dog’s bizarre behaviors, the ducks will move closer, perhaps not as close to put themselves at risk from being grabbed by the dog, but at a close enough distance to be within the hunter’s shooting range. Once shot, the retriever will then gleefully complete his work by retrieving the fallen birds.

Fun fact: Nova Scotia duck tolling retrievers are nicknamed the “pied pipers of the marsh.”

References:

The Complete Dog Book: 20th Edition, by American Kennel Club, Ballantine Books; 20 edition (December 18, 2007)
Dog Body, Dog Mind: Exploring Canine Consciousness and Total Well-Being, by Michael Fox, Lyons Press; 1 edition (July 1, 2007)
The Dog’s Mind: Understanding Your Dog’s Behavior (Howell reference books) by Bruce Fogle, Howell Book House; 1 edition (October 14, 1992)
American Kennel Club, Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, retrieved from the webo n March 26, 2016

Photo credits:

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever was bred to “toll”, or lure, ducks into shooting range by causing a disturbance near the shore. After the duck is shot, the dog brings it to the hunter, by kallerna; Edited by jjron, CC BY-SA 3.0

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