Admin, Author at Daily Dog Discoveries

Dog Word of the Day: Teacup Puppies

November 26, 2016May 4, 2016 by Admin

At some point or another, dog lovers may stumble on the word “teacup puppies.” Most likely, there was some flashy ad on the Sunday newspaper advertising “teacup puppies” for sale, or there may have been a first-person encounter with one. As cute and innocent as the word teacup puppy may seem, there’s really a lot to become aware of before falling into the temptation of getting one. The saying “knowledge is power” can help make a difference between getting a healthy puppy or a sickly one that can bring on many heartaches and considerably lighten the wallet.

What are Teacup Puppies?

As the name implies, teacup puppies are very small dogs which are meant to fit inside a teacup or coffee cup.

Also known as micro dogs or pocket-sized dogs, these small dogs often weigh considerably less than the standard weight set forth by the American Kennel Club or other breed club.

For example, generally, teacup Yorkies will be weighing less than 4 lbs when fully grown, when the breed standard for this breed is 7 lbs maximum.

The term “teacup” is not considered an official term nor is it endorsed by any major breed registries. Teacup puppies may belong to different breeds.

Wondering about teacup dog breeds? Common teacup dog breeds include teacup Yorkies, teacup Chihuahuas, teacup Maltese, teacup Pomeranians, teacup pugs, teacup poodles, teacup silky terriers and teacup shih-tzus.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

How are They Created?

When breeders selectively breed small dogs, they may occasionally stumble on runts of the litter.

While a reputable breeder will sell these smaller than average pups with spay and neuter contracts so that these dogs produced by accident cannot reproduce, an unethical breeder instead may intentionally breed two undersized dogs to produce litters of smaller than average puppies.

These puppies are then called “teacup puppies” and breeders ask a premium price for them marketing them as valuable. How much does a teacup puppy cost on average? A teacup puppy may easily cost anywhere between is $750 to even $2,000.

Did you know? The American Shih Tzu Club clearly states that an ethical breeder will not advertise a runt as a tiny teacup but would sell it as a pet quality puppy meant to be exclusively kept as a companion.

Problems With Teacup Puppies

Being below the breed standard’s size, comes with several potential problems. There are several reasons therefore why teacup dog breeds aren’t everyone’s “cup of tea.”

Producing smaller versions of dogs that are already small to start with, risks magnifying the chances for health problems raising their ugly heads.

What health problems are likely to happen? Hypoglycemia (rapid drop of blood glucose in the blood), larger moleras, hydrocephalus, liver shunts, heart problems, lowered immune function, seizures, teeth problems and fragility due to small bones are just a few.

Due to their fragility, teacup puppies are also not a good match for families with small children as they may inadvertently injure these petite dogs in play. Teacup puppies also often require more frequent feedings due to their fast metabolisms and risks for low blood glucose.

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule, and there may be healthy teacup puppy specimens, but buyers should be aware about the extra care these dogs may require when it comes to their general health and well-being. To make things more insidious, many health issues mentioned above may not be immediately apparent to new puppy owners but may only pop up later on.

“Micro dogs weighing three pounds or less at adulthood are more prone to serious health problems and generally live shorter lives.” ~Dr. Marty Becker

Why are They so Popular?

The market of selling puppies is often shaped by current trends and fads. The teacup puppy fad has been alive and well for some time and breeders take advantage of this so to place a high price tag on teacup dogs.

The term “teacup” is therefore a buzzword meant to attract buyers, a strategic marketing ploy. While teacup puppies aren’t endorsed by any reputable breed registries, celebrities are often to blame for the popularity of these small dogs.

Carrying a pooch in a pink handbag may be cute and trendy, but dogs are not fashion accessories and shouldn’t be treated that way. Many pups that are purchased by impressionable people who are prone to copy their favorite celebrities sadly end up later on in shelters because, when purchased on a whim, people fail to realize the amount of care and money involved in meeting the needs of these small dogs.

“The terms “imperial” or “tiny teacup” should be regarded as what they really are…. A MYTH often used by unethical breeders to create a market for dogs that do not conform to the breed standard.” ~American Shih Tzu Club

How to Get One

Where to buy a teacup dog breed or a teacup puppy? For prospective dog owners who want a teacup puppy, their best bet is to avoid breeders who purposely breed them and ask a hefty price for them.

Pet stores should also be avoided as they are mostly supplied by puppy mills. A better option is purchasing a toy dog that is of normal weight and size for the standard or asking around as reputable breeders sometimes unintentionally end up with smaller-than-average puppies.

A reputable breeder breeds for sound health, good behavior and longevity and will provide buyers a contract with a health guarantee. Other places to look at are rescues or shelters who often have an abundance of small dogs in desperate need of caring and loving homes.

Did you know? It’ against the Yorkshire Terrier Club’s code of ethics for breeders to use terms such as “teacup”, “tiny specialists”, “doll faced”, or similar terminology to advertise their puppies and the Chihuahua Club of America does not endorse nor condone the use of terms such as “teacup, Pocket Size, Tiny Toy,or Miniature and cautions perspective puppy buyers to not be misled by them.

References:

Vet Street, by Dr. Marty Becker, 5 Toy Breeds That Worry This Vet the Most, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016
American Shih Tzu Club, Imperial Shih Tzu, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016
The Yorkshire Terrier Club of America, Code of Ethics, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016
Chihuahua Club of America, Teacup Statement, retrieved from the web on May 4th, 2016

Photo Credits:

A Teacup Yorkie, by Swatjester, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Where is a Dog’s Thickest Skin Located?

November 4, 2016May 3, 2016 by Admin

A dog’s skin is thinner and much more sensitive than ours, states the Merck Veterinary Manual. Some of us may find this surprising, but turns out, our skin is three times thicker than our dogs’ and our pH is different too, which is why we shouldn’t use human shampoo for our dogs, explains Karen L. Campbell, a veterinarian specializing in dermatology in the book “The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases.” On the other hand though, dogs have a coat, so there seems to be a convenient trade-off: generally, the more hair, the thinner the outer layer of skin. While our dogs may have thinner skin compared to us, there’s an area of the dog’s body where the skin is much tougher compared to the dog’s other areas, so our trivia question for the day is the following:

Can you name where a dog’s toughest skin is located?

A The nose

B The neck

C The paw pads

D The abdomen

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

The correct answer is…..

The correct answer is C, the paw pads

Ever wondered how dogs are able to walk in the snow, hot pavement or over the hard surfaces such as asphalt without having to wear shoes? This is all courtesy of those tough paw pads. Sure, if we were to walk barefoot for most of our lives, the skin on the bottom of our feet would surely toughen, but until the day we decide to ditch our shoes, we will be prone to have softer feet with more delicate soles. Other than protecting a dog’s feet from abrasive surfaces and hot and cold temperatures, a dog’s paw pads act as shock absorbers for all the bones, tendons and ligaments found on the dog’s legs

A Lesson in Anatomy

Close-up of paw, notice the smoother center and more prominent papillae on the edge of the toes. — Notice the smoother center and more prominent papillae on the edges.

What does a dog’s paw pad anatomy look like? The skin on a dog’s paw pads is extra thick and not found in any other area of the dog’s body. It’s made of layers of insulating fat and connective tissue making them the perfect version of Mother Nature’s insoles.

The outermost layer is the one we’re most familiar with, it’s called the stratum corneum and it’s the hairless pigmented layer we see when we look at our dog’s paws.

If you ever looked at your dog’s paw pads very closely, you might have noticed how the outermost layer is made of small conical papillae. These papillae are made to add further protection.

You may have also noticed how the central surface of your dog’s pads may be smooth compared to the outer edges. This is from long-term walking on rough surfaces such as concrete. The smoothness is due to the conical papillae being flattened rather than conical due to abrasion, while the papillae on the edge remain conical.

Dogs who tend to walk more on hard surfaces and are older tend to generally have tougher paw pads than dogs used to walking in grass and carpet and who are younger.

Did you know? A dog’s foot pads contain many blood vessels which is why they tend to bleed easily when injured.

Strong But Not Invincible

While a dog’s paw pads are pretty tough and able to withstand the many miles dogs put on their feet, consider though that this doesn’t mean you can walk your dog over hot asphalt or over ice melt without having any problems.

A dog’s paw pads can be prone to cracks, abrasions, ulcers and blisters when exposed to heat and cold, harsh surfaces and chemicals.

Most commonly, the dog’s outer layer of skin, the stratum coneum sloughs off, exposing a raw layer of skin that is very sensitive and can take even weeks to properly heal.

In nature, injuries to a canine’s feet can have deleterious effects and may strongly incapacitate these cursorial animals who need to run to hunt for prey and run away from predators. Luckily, in a domesticated setting, we can take care of our dogs providing them food and resting their feet which gives time for their paw pads to heal.

Paw pads are prone to heal slowly because they’re more exposed to contaminated surfaces, dogs need to walk on them and dogs are prone to further aggravate the area through persistent licking and chewing. Fortunately, we can do a whole lot in preventing injuries from occurring in the first place such as inspecting a dog’s paw pads on a routine basis after exercising on rough surfaces and avoiding temperature extremes or exposure to chemicals and irritants. Also, keeping a dog lean will help put less pressure on the toes and joints so the dog is “lighter on his feet.”

Did you know? Because the tissues on a dog’s paw pads is highly specialized and has precise functions, it’s irreplaceable, and therefore cannot be replaced from other skin from the body, explains Dr. Tannaz Amalsadvala, a graduate of the Bombay Veterinary College in Bombay, India.

References:

Laboratory Manual for Comparative Veterinary Anatomy & Physiology, By Phillip E. Cochran, M.S., D.V.M, Delmar Cengage Learning; 2 edition (April 12, 2010)
Laboratory Manual for Clinical Anatomy and Physiology for Veterinary Technicians, By Thomas P. Colville, Joanna M. Bassert, ISBN-13:9780323294751 Publisher:Elsevier Health Sciences
“The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases” by Karen L. Campbell DVM MS DAVCVIM DACVD, Saunders; 1 edition (November 14, 2005)
DVM360,Paw tissues unique; injuries need special care, attention, By Tannaz Amalsadvala, B.V.Sc. & A.H., MS retrieved from the web on May 3rd, 2016.
Merck Veterinary Manual, Description and Physical Characteristics of Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 3rd, 2016.
Lloyd, DH and Garthwaite, G (1982) Epidermal structure and surface-topography of canine skin. Research in veterinary care, 33 (1). pp. 99-104.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

I am Your Dog’s Uterus

June 27, 2016May 2, 2016 by Admin

The dog’s uterus plays very important roles in the intact female dog’s body. This reproductive organ is similar in many ways to the uterus in women, but it’s also different in many other ways. When we think of the dog’s uterus, we often think about its ability to carry puppies, but since many dogs are spayed, dog owners often don’t think about this organ much. Regardless, learning more about a dog’s uterus can be fascinating, and in owners of intact dogs it can also be helpful so to learn how to recognize early signs of trouble that warrant a vet visit.

Introducing Your Dog’s Uterus

Hello, it’s your dog’s uterus talking! Many dog owners do not deal with me much. Once puppies reach a certain age, I am removed along with the ovaries in a procedure known as “ovariohysterectomy.” If that sounds a tad bit complicated, no worries, you can call it spay surgery or simply getting the dog “fixed.” Those though who decide to keep me for personal choice or reproductive purposes, will probably get to know me a whole lot.

If you look at me, I am a hollow muscular organ with a Y-shaped structure. Unlike the human uterus which is like a big sac because it’s mostly meant to carry one baby, I am shaped differently so the puppies are aligned nicely in a row along my uterine horns. To better understand my anatomy, take a look at the picture. The arms of the “Y” are my long uterine horns with the ovaries located at the end of each horn, the shorter part of the “Y” is my body and the very base of the “Y” is where the cervix is located. For the most part, the cervix is closed so to prevent pesky bacteria from climbing up and reaching me. In certain circumstances though such as when your dog is in heat or during birth and 3 weeks after giving birth, the sphincter of the cervix is temporarily open, explains veterinarian Margaret Root Kustritz, in the book “The Dog Breeder’s Guide to Successful Breeding and Health Management.”

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Did you know? There is an alternate option to spaying which involves leaving the uterus intact and only removing the dog’s ovaries. The procedure is known as an “ovariectomy” and can be done through laparoscopy, a less invasive type of surgery. Not many vets offer this though.

I Carry Puppies

When dogs get pregnant, the fertilized eggs travel through the long oviducts and then descend all the way down to me where they implant and start developing into puppies. Then, once the pups are ready to be born, I will help push them out. You may think of me just as a receptacle, but I don’t just sit there and carry puppies. When the puppies are in me, I have to stretch and develop along with the pups, and then once they’re born, I have to return to my initial pre-pregnancy size. Call that easy!

I also help out developing the puppy’s placentas, those life-sustaining structures that attach to my lining and keep the pups alive and nourished as they develop inside me. While I am mostly quiet during those 63 days of pregnancy, when the big day comes, boy do I get to work! I must contract powerfully so to open the now locked cervix and push out those pups and their placentas. Wheeeew… that’s quite a task! My job is still not done though, my contractions must continue even after all that work so to stop that annoying post-partum bleeding and get rid of any excess fluids.

Did you know? Once an ovum is fertilized, it’s known as a “zygote ” and by the time the zygote is ready to implant in the uterus lining, it’s known as a blastocyst.

When Things Go Wrong

Even though I am quite a simple structure, I am prone to several problems. When vets remove me during a spay surgery, sometimes things can go wrong. When it’s time to give birth, I may encounter some difficulties. Also, as I age and go through several heat cycles, I am more likely to thicken and become vulnerable to problems. Unlike humans though, dogs do not go through menopause, (yes, no doggy hot flashes!) so hormones keep being produced even into old age.

Surgical Complications

When a dog is in heat, I can become enlarged compared to a dog who is not in heat. If you are planning to spay your dog and your dog is in heat, expect veterinary receptionists to give you a bit of a hard time. Things get more complicated when I am swollen. This is why vets recommend waiting or charge more for spaying a dog who is in heat than one who is not.

While a spay surgery is really routine surgery, sometimes, in rare cases, things can get a bit messed up. Some of my tissue may be left behind and this can create problems. When this happens, the dog can’t bleed or get pregnant, but she may still develop others signs of a heat cycle, explains veterinarian Chris Bern. Deja vu, anyone? When this happens, it’s known as Ovarian Remnant Syndrome in Dogs. In some rare instance, these ovarian and uterine tissue remnants can develop what is known as “stump pyometra.”

Hormonal Abnormalities

When a dog is left intact (not spayed), there are risks that I can get infected at one time or another, especially in dogs over the age of six. Here’s what happens. As dogs go through several heat cycles without getting pregnant, my lining tends to thicken and cysts that release fluids may form. Now, consider that progesterone levels stay high for about 2 months following heat regardless if the dog is pregnant or not (that’s why it’s so hard telling a real pregnancy from a false pregnancy). These high levels of progesterone inhibit my muscles from contracting and expelling bacteria, thus creating the perfect grounds for a secondary bacterial infection.

This is when dogs get in trouble and develop what is known as pyometra, a condition that happens about two to eight weeks after the heat cycle. If the cervix is open, pus will drain out from me and make its way outside. This is when dog owners notice the abnormal discharge under the tail. If the cervix is closed, the pus will not have an outlet, thus it will collect in the dog’s abdomen causing it to enlarge and be very painful. Due to all the fluid accumulating in me and diseased tissues, I may go from weighing just a few pounds (as seen in an average-sized dog) to weighing even up to four pounds, warns Dr. Becker! No wonder why people have compared me to a stuffed venison sausage when this happens! With all this trouble going on, affected dogs get severely ill very rapidly, drinking more, acting lethargic and sometimes vomiting or having diarrhea. But wait, the worse has to come…If treatment isn’t sought quickly, I risk rupturing, spilling out my contents into the abdomen which can result in a fatal septic peritonitis or acute kidney failure. Yes, you don’t want to mess with me when I get so sick, see your vet at once!

“In the past, we thought pyometra was simply a uterine infection, but today, we know that it is a hormonal abnormality, and a secondary bacterial infection may or may not be present.”~Dr. Marty Smith

Bacterial Infections

Remember how I said that the cervix is usually closed, but during a heat cycle or after giving birth it tends to remain open? Well hear me out.. During a dog’s heat, the cervix is open so to allow sperm to go through, but along with the sperm, bacteria may make its way up to me. After the heat, the cervix tightly closes, trapping the bacteria inside. When bacteria invades me, dogs develop what is known as “metritis.” How is metritis different from pyometra? Unlike pyometra, metritis is not caused by a hormonal abnormality. Also, metritis is likely to develop right after the dog gives birth and sometimes after abortion or breeding, explains veterinarian Dr. Bari Spielman. I often get infected when right after birth there are retained placentas or dead fetuses. Now you know why most vets recommend a check up the first 24-48 hours after your dog gives birth.

Uterine Inertia

Sometimes, for one reason or another, I may get sluggish, and unable to contract enough to push the puppies out. When I act this way, you know you have to get help as fast as you can as I can’t perform my pushing duties. What causes me to not contract as I should? Dr. Lopate a member of the American College of Theriogenologists explains in the book “Management of Pregnant and Neonatal Dogs, Cats, and Exotic Pets” that this can be due malnutrition or conditions such as hypocalcemia, fatigue or some other systemic disease. When I fail to contract with sufficient force, the condition is known as primary inertia; whereas, in secondary intertia, my contractions are first vigorous but then they decrease in vigor. Often the problem is due to how the puppy is positioned, or if the puppy is too large and the birth passage to narrow. That’s the price to pay for those breeds with large heads! At the first signs of trouble, your best bet is to touch basis with your vet. Your vet may give your dog a shot to jump start me and get me back to work or he may need to do a C-section.

As seen, I am more than just a receptacle that holds puppies until they are born, I perform quite some complex roles. If you own an intact female, it’s imperative that you contact your vet as soon as possible at the first signs of trouble with me. And if your dog is pregnant and nearing delivery, please do me a big, big favor, will you? Keep your vet’s phone number handy, and get help as soon as you can so that I can do my work and safely deliver that batch of puppies you have been waiting for. Your dog, the pups and me will thank you.

Respectfully yours,

Your Dog’s Uterus.

Disclaimer: this article is not to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is having health problems, please consult with your vet at once.

References:

Pet Place, Structure and Function of the Female Canine Reproductive Tract, retrieved from the web on May 2nd, 2013
Pet Education, Anatomy and Function of the Reproductive System in Dogs, by Dr. Race Foster, retrieved from the web on May 2nd, 2013
VCA Animal Hospital, Pyometra in Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 2nd, 2013
Management of Pregnant and Neonatal Dogs, Cats, and Exotic Pets, By Cheryl Lopate, Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (13 July 2012)
Clinical Anatomy and Physiology for Veterinary Technicians, 3e 3rd Edition by Thomas P. Colville DVM MSc (Author), Joanna M. Bassert VMD (Author), Mosby; 3 edition (April 2, 2015)

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

The Mystery Behind Trancing in Dogs

June 27, 2016May 1, 2016 by Admin

Among the odd and curious behaviors dogs do, trancing will always remain one of the most mysterious out there. Not all dogs seem to trance, but those who do surely leave their owners scratching their heads wondering what is going on with their canine companions. In some cases, dog owners may even be worried about their dog’s behavior as they wonder if their beloved dog is exhibiting some sort of odd seizure or if there may be some neurological or perhaps behavioral issue at play. Yet, many dog owners attest that when they have their dog seen by the vet, he turns out to being perfectly healthy and normal, other than exhibiting this odd dog trancing behavior!

Trancing in the Human World

Trancing is known as being in a half-conscious state, somewhere in between sleep and wake. When we think of this state, we can’t help it but think about a state induced by hypnosis, meditation or some paranormal phenomenon such as a magical incantation or an out-of-body experience. We may also think of it as a state induced by taking some sort of drug that cause alterations in perception, mood, or consciousness. While we can imagine a person being is such state, its not that easy imagining a dog acting this way, yet, there are many dog owners reporting that their dogs start trancing when they are exposed to specific tactile triggers found in their environment.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Trancing in the Dog World

Also known as ghost walking or weed walking, trancing occurs when dogs move slowly in a trance-like fashion as they walk under low-hanging leaves, a bush, a Christmas tree, a long table cloth or under clothes hanging. What seems to trigger this odd behavior is the slight touch of something gently making contact with their skin. Dogs in a trance-like state will walk slowly and then may become very still or they may walk back and forth. Dog owners report seeing glazed-over eyes, but then once the dog snaps out of this state, the dog resumes normal activity as if nothing happened. How long do these trancing episodes last? According to Black’s Veterinary Dictionary, anywhere between a few seconds to longer than half an hour. Interestingly, bull terriers, basset hounds, greyhounds, Jack Russell terriers and salukis seem to be more prone to this behavior compared to other breeds. They say seeing is believing, so we are posting a couple of videos for those skeptics out there!

Snapping Out of It

Often dog owners wonder what they should do when they notice the trancing behavior. Asking the dog to do something else might work to help the dog snap out of it, but affected dogs may not be responsive as they normally are and some dogs may even appear irritated when interrupted, explain D. Caroline Coile and Margaret H. Bonham in the book “Why Do Dogs Like Balls?” Letting the dog be therefore may be the best solution.

What Surveys Say

Many dog owners are rightfully concerned as they wonder if trancing may stem from some underlying medical problem such as a neurological or behavioral issue. The Bull Terrier Neurological Disorder Resources website conducted a poll back in 2004, collecting data from owners of bull terriers. The poll results showed that 86 percent of the dogs were considered normal while 14 percent were showing neurological issues. Out of these normal dogs and dogs who had neurological issues, 73 percent would trance while 27 percent would not. Alice Moon-Fanelli, a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist with an interest in the behavior, has noted that a large amount of bull terriers trance, but has found no connection with tail chasing, a behavior common in this breed, thus, she claims that trancing should not be considered a precursor to tail chasing behavior.

“I should mention that an extraordinarily large number of Bull Terriers trance. While trancing is an abnormal behavior, I now view it as separate from tail chasing. In other words, if any of you have a Bullie that’s currently walking in slo-mo under your Norfolk Pine as you read this—don’t panic that this will eventually evolve into tail chasing!” ~ Alice Moon Fanelli

Did you know? Since trancing is quite common in bull terriers, it’s sometime referred to as the “Bull terrier Ghost walk.”

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Six Surprising Reasons Why Dogs Smack Their Lips

November 4, 2016April 30, 2016 by Admin

In the human world, lip smacking is something we do when we open and close our mouth loudly to express a strong desire to eat something we like, but in the dog world, lip smacking can take place for many other reasons. Some dog owners may find the behavior concerning especially when a dog licks his lips excessively, while others may find it downright annoying. By the way, if you are terribly bothered by those lip smacking noises your dog makes, there are chances you may have a condition known as “misophonia” which literally means “hatred of sound” and can involve specific noises produced when someone eats, yawns or when dogs smack their lips. Back to dogs, let’s discover six surprising reasons why dogs smack their lips.

dog lip smacking — Yum! Dog licks his chops at the sight of his food.

1) Anticipation of Food

Just like us, a dog’s mouth may water when he sees food, smells food or even thinks about food. This collection of saliva in a dog’s mouth may cause him to drool, which is often seen in dogs with heavy jowls, but sometimes dogs may just discreetly smack their lips to collect the excessive saliva that collects laterally and prevent it from seeping out. In this case, the lip smacking behavior occurs when there is something in the dog’s environment that has to do with food. You’re likely to see your dog smack his lips therefore when you’re cooking something or when you’re prepping your dog’s meal.

Surprising fact: Your dog may even smack his lips when no food is around. When Russian physiologist Ivan Pavlov started studying the digestive process in dogs, he noticed how the dogs salivated naturally when food was presented, but what was really surprising is that the dogs started salivating even upon the mere sight of the white lab coat of the experimental assistants! Basically, the dogs started associating food with the lab assistant’s coat so they drooled upon seeing it and at some point even upon hearing the lab assistant’s foot steps!

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

So if you ever clicker trained your dog, don’t be surprised if he smacks his lips when you get the clicker out or upon clicking it, even before you give a treat. From your dog’s perspective, the clicker is what dog trainers call a secondary or conditioned reinforcer, meaning that the dog has learned to associate it with treats. Its mere presence can trigger a lip smacking event. Same goes with seeing Aunt Molly. If every time Aunt Molly meets your dog she gives him a treat, just seeing her may elicit a lip smacking episode as he anticipates food from her!

2) A Bout of Nausea

Just before people or dogs vomit, saliva accumulates in the mouth and this may trigger lip smacking in dogs and drooling or repeated swallowing in humans. Why this saliva accumulates in the mouth before vomiting is not entirely clear, but according to Science Focus, there is belief that it may be a protective measure to prevent the throat, mouth and teeth from being harmed by the highly acidic stomach contents when they’re brought up. Fortunately, most cases of dog lip smacking from nausea resolve after the dog has vomited, but sometimes the nausea may go on for some time and the dog may be repeatedly gulping down saliva.

Surprising fact: dogs can get acid reflux too! Small dogs are particularly prone to it as they have tiny stomachs and their metabolisms are so fast that their stomachs remain empty for some time. When their stomach is empty, they produce gastric acid, but since it’s not absorbed by food, it stays in the stomach, irritating the lining and causing nausea and vomiting of yellow bile, explains veterinarian Dr. Fiona.

3) A Mouth Problem

When we have mouth or tooth pain, we may look inside the medicine cabinet to address the pain and make an appointment with the dentist. Dogs have no way to tell us about their problem, other than showing signs of discomfort such as lip smacking and drooling, dropping food as they eat and pawing at the mouth. Problems that may affects a dog’s mouth or tooth may include periodontal disease, objects embedded in the dog’s mouth or problems with the salivary glands. If you live in an area where there are foxtails, consider that these pesky awns may have lodged somewhere into your dog’s mouth or throat causing lots of discomfort, lip smacking, drooling and gagging.

Surprising fact: In the world of fairy tales, kissing a frog may turn it into a prince, but in the dog world kissing the wrong type of toad may lead to lip smacking and foaming at the mouth and may even turn life threatening if veterinary care isn’t sought in a timely manner. Problems start when a dog licks a giant toad or a Sonoran desert toad, two species that secrete toxic substances as a defense mechanism. Along with foaming at the mouth, affected dogs may develop a high temperature, red gums, trouble breathing, abnormal heart rhythms, seizures and even death. The Pet Poison Helpine recommends rinsing the mouth out and immediately contacting the vet.

4) A Sign of Pain/Illness

As a species that relies of words and vocalizations, us humans often assume dogs will show their pain though whines, whimpers and yelps, but that’s not always that way. Many dogs show subtle signs of pain that are often missed by dog owners or attributed to other things others than pain. Other than nausea, lip smacking can be a sign of pain explains veterinarian Dr. Jake Tedaldi in the book: “What’s Wrong with My Dog?” Once the pain is taken care of, the lip smacking behavior should therefore resolve.

Surprising fact: there are several other physical ailments that could trigger lip smacking in dogs. For example, liver and kidney disease can cause lip smacking, and so can dehydration, further suggests Dr. Tedaldi. In some cases, partial seizures may also cause a dog to lick the air and snap, as if catching imaginary flies.

5) A Calming Signal

In dogs, licking the lips can be what Roger Abrantes calls a “pacifying behavior.” Dogs basically engage in this behavior to diffuse a perceived threat using the lip smacking action as an appeasing signal. It can be seen in dogs who are stressed, anxious or nervous about an interaction or when there is some type of conflict going on. Many dogs smack their lips when they are being photographed (it makes some dogs uneasy) or when an owner trips on them. As with other behaviors, it’s important to look at context as things can get blurry at times. A person may assume a dog may smack its lips from nervousness when starting a training session, but it could also mean the dog is anticipating treats. Patrica McConnell in her blog suggests a way to distinguish the two.

“Usually, (but not always) licking in anticipation of food involves the tongue moving laterally, to the side of the dog’s mouth, while in other types of lip licks the tongue moves straight forward.” ~ Patricia McConnell

Surprising fact: Lip licking behavior has likely evolved with the dog because it has proven to prolong the dog’s life increasing its chance of surviving and reproducing, suggests Abrantes. The behavior must have therefore puts roots as it helped the dog survive conflicts without incurring in physical harm.

6) Attention Seeking Behavior

Last but not least, lip smacking behavior may occur at times because the dog notices that it gets the owner’s attention. After ruling out any medical causes, this may be a possibility if every time your dog smack his lips, you turn to look at him or talk to him. The lip smacking behavior therefore puts roots because it has been accidentally reinforced by the owner. Dogs who look for attention are often dogs who are socially deprived spending the majority of the day alone and craving any form of attention when the owner comes home. As with other behaviors, it’s important to look at context. If it happens only in presence in the owner, it’s likely attention-seeking behavior. By recording the dog’s behavior in the owner’s absence, one can probably deduce if it may be attention-seeking behavior or perhaps something else.

Surprising fact: Dogs have been known for engaging in surprising behaviors just for the sake of attention, even pseudo-medical attention-seeking behaviors, like faking lameness or face scratching, explains Dr. Nicholas Dodman. And if you were wondering, consider that even negative attention such as reprimanding the dog telling him to stop may qualify as attention to a dog who is craving attention. The best approach is to totally ignore.

“Even telling your dog to stop, or reprimanding him, can be rewarding for some dogs. The principle here is that some attention, even negative attention, is better than no attention at all.” ~Dr. Nicholas Dodman

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a diagnostic tool or as a substitute for professional veterinary or behavioral advice. If your dog is smacking his lips, see a vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Six Causes of Lip Smacking in Dogs

References:

What’s Wrong with My Dog? by Dr. Jake Tedaldi, Fair Winds Press (August 1, 2007)
Science Focus, Why do we salivate before we vomit, by Luis Villazon, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016
Roger Abrantes, Pacifying Behavior, Origin Function and Evolution, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016
The Other End of the Leash, What Does Licking Mean? by Patricia McConnell, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016
Pet Place, Attention-Seeking Behavior in Dogs, by Dr. Nicholas Dodman, retrieved from the web on April 30th, 2016

Yes, Dogs Can Have A Satisfied Look on Their Face!

June 27, 2016April 29, 2016 by Admin

Among the many fascinating behaviors and facial expressions dogs engage in, the consummatory face deserves a place of honor. While you may have never heard the term “consummatory face” before, you have likely stumbled on this facial expression at some point or another, but perhaps never gave it much thought. Becoming more aware of a dog’s consummatory face though is not only interesting, but also helpful as it makes us more observant of our dog’s body language. It’s one of those things worthy of mentally bookmarking it and providing it a spot in our virtual library of the curious things dogs do.

A Matter of Satisfaction

What exactly does consummatory mean? The term derives from the Latin word consummatus, the past participle of consummare which means “to finish up, complete.” What exactly do dogs have to finish up or complete? It’s not like dogs have to finish up their homework or a complete any housecleaning chores as humans do! When the term consummatory behavior is applied to animal behavior it’s mostly associated with the achievement of a goal; whereas, the process of achieving the goal is referred to as appetitive behavior. Intrigued? More “official” definitions below from Dictionary.com.

If these terms make you hungry and think about food, you aren’t on the wrong path; indeed, these terms are inspired by the act of eating. Appetitive comes from appetite, and consummatory comes from finishing up, which is why we often say “to consume a meal” or finish up food. So if we now think about a dog’s consummatory face, we can deduce it must have something to do with the dog’s sense of satisfaction derived from achieving a goal, so next, let’s discover some instances when dogs would feel satisfied.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Consummatory behavior: “a behavior pattern that occurs in response to a stimulus and that achieves the satisfaction of a specific drive, as the eating of captured prey by a hungry predator.”

Appetitive behavior: “activity that increases the likelihood of satisfying a specific need, as restless searching for food by a hungry predator.” ~Dictionary.com

Achievement of Goals

Dogs don’t write down their future goals on a planner as their lives for the most part revolve in the present, but for sure there are sure many little things they gotta work for, but they’re mostly down to earth plans with nothing really fancy. Many of a dog’s daily “goals” revolve in engaging in feel- good activities and making slightly discomforting sensations go away. Basically, all things that are pleasurable and reinforcing. Ever felt the pleasure of eating something good or the relief of calming those hunger pangs when you haven’t eaten for a while? The relieving sensation of urinating when you have a full bladder? Or defecating when you gotta go bad? Or taking a bath after a workout? Or making an annoying itch go away by reaching for the back scratcher? For sure you have! When you achieve these little “goals” on a daily basis for you must feel good afterward. Dogs are the same way, eating, urinating, defecating, scratching an itch and rolling in poop after a bath (yes, ’cause those baths we give dogs to make them smell good to us, takes their cherished doggy smell away!) are all behaviors that makes them feel good.

That Satisfied Look

As with other types of body language in dogs such as whale eyes or inguinal presentation, the consummatory face must have some distinguishing traits, so how can it be described? M. W. Fox described it as keeping “the ears partially flattened and the eyes either narrowed or completely closed, or opened and fixed in a “middle distance” stare or glazed daydream.” Dr. Bonnie B. Beaver in her book “Canine Behavior: Insights and Answers” describes it as a dog having “ears partially flattened and eyes partially or fully closed, a pleasure face.” If dogs could talk, they would likely say something in the terms of: “Ahhhh…. this feels so good!”

When Does it Happen?

You were likely not imagining things when you thought you caught a satisfied look on your dog’s face when you found him rolling in poop. Consummatory faces are likely to occur when a dog engages in a variety of relaxing, pleasurable activities as long as they’re not disturbed by distracting stimuli around them. You’re therefore likely to see this expression when your dog eats, pees, poops, rolls and rubs in stinky things, says Michael Fox in the book “Behaviour of Wolves Dogs and Related Canids”–well he used a more professional language in the book really, but you get the point! Barbara Handelman in the educational book “Canine Behavior: A Photo Illustrated Handbook” points out that it can be seen when the dog “satisfyingly scratches a particularly itchy itch” and keeps the head tilted upwards, the lips drawn back, the ears relaxed along with squinty eyes.

Five Squinty- Eyed Dogs Saying Yes, That’s The Spot!

Yes, that's the spot! says Huey — Yes, that’s the spot! says Huey

Ahhhh.. these massages turn me into putty! says Frank.

kodiak — A soft bed of grass and a belly rub, I couldn’t ask for more!” says Kodiak

Nobody available to scratch my back? I'll take care of it, says Laika. — Nobody available to scratch my back? I’ll take care of it, says Laika.

Did you know? ” Squinting, the way you might squint when you smile, generally reflects relaxation or happy excitement” says dog trainer Jolanta Benal.

References:

Fox, M.W. (1970). A comparative study of the development of facial expression in canids. Behaviour, 36, 49 – 73.
Canine Behavior: Insights and Answers, By Bonnie V. G. Beaver
Behaviour of Wolves Dogs and Related Canids, by Michael Fox, Dogwise Classics Edition: 1971 E Book, 217 pages
Canine Behavior: A Photo Illustrated Handbook, by Barbara Handelman, Distributed by Dogwise Publishing
Edition: 2008 Paperback, 386 pages.
Appetitive behavior. (n.d.). Dictionary.com Unabridged. Retrieved April 29, 2016 from Dictionary.com website
Consummatory behavior. (n.d.). Dictionary.com Unabridged. Retrieved April 29, 2016 from Dictionary.com website

Photo Credits:

My Favorite Pet Sitter, Chester loves a back scratch, Flickr Creative Commons, CC BY 2.0
Wayne Silver, Huey, Flickr Creative Commons, CC BY 2.0
Tony Alter, Frank turning to putty, Flickr Creative Commons, CC BY 2.0
Eileen, Kodiak savoring the belly rub–adopted! Flickr Creative Commons, CC BY 2.0
Mike M, Scratching Her Back. Flickr Creative Commons, CC BY 2.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Care Giving and Care Seeking Behaviors in Dogs

June 27, 2016April 28, 2016 by Admin

Among the many amazing things dogs do, care giving is one of those things that often marvels us when we watch the interactions between a mother dog and her pups. Unlike humans, those talented mother dogs didn’t get to play with dolls or read directions on how to mix formula or learn how to change a diaper. Taking good care of puppies is something that is instinctive in most mother dogs, courtesy of hormones and the care-seeking behaviors in pups which are know to evoke nurturing behaviors (even though there are sometimes exceptions to the rule). Today, we’ll be taking a look at care giving and care seeking behaviors in dogs, or in more technical terms, epimeletic and et-epimeletic behaviors in dogs.

Epimeletic Behaviors in Mother Dogs

Epimeletic behaviors are simply those behaviors that entail giving care to others. These mostly entail those nurturing, care giving behaviors that are carried out by mother dogs and are targeted towards their puppies. Puppies being part of altricial species, strongly depend on their mothers for survival, so maternal instincts in mother dogs are particularly strong. Care giving behaviors are largely influenced by the effect of hormones. In particular, the maternal hormone prolactin, fosters protective behaviors and also plays a role in stimulating the milk let down process.

“Prolactin controls milk production and fosters the feeling of maternal protectiveness. ” ~Nicholas Dodman

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Following are some examples of care giving behaviors carried out by mother dogs:

Severing the pup’s umbilical cord with the teeth
Attending to distress calls of pups who are hungry, cold or who got separated from the rest.
Licking puppies to stimulate urination and defecation.
Lying down on the side to help the puppies nurse.
Regurgitating food for the pups when they’re being weaned (still seen in some mother dogs).
Protecting the puppies from any perceived harms.

Note: there may be variances in epimeletic behaviors in mother dogs, with some dogs showing exaggerated forms (excessive grooming) and deficits (failure to groom, nurse or care for the pups.)

Did you know? Mother dogs tend to pick up puppies and carry them around keeping their whole body in their mouth with feet dangling down, versus cats who carry their kittens by the skin, explain John Paul Scott and John L. Fuller in the book “Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog.”

Et-epimeletic Behavior in Puppies

Et-epimeletic behaviors are simply those behaviors that entail seeking care from others. These are often soliciting, care seeking behaviors that are carried out from puppies and are targeted towards their mother. Following are some examples of care-seeking behaviors in puppies:

Distressed calls when hungry, cold or separated from mother dog and the pups.
Licking the lips of mother dog to greet/ get attention/solicit her to regurgitate food for them.
Pawing and jumping to reach mother dog’s face to greet/get attention/solicit regurgitation.

Note: according to Steven Lindsay there may also be variances in et-epimeletic behaviors, with some dogs showing exaggerated forms (excessive attention seeking, dependency) and deficits (failure to bond, withdrawn.)

Et-epimeletic Behaviors in Dogs Past Infancy

Interestingly, the above et-epimeletic behaviors aren’t limited to young puppies. Some of these infantile behaviors are often retained past early infancy in a dog’s interactions with humans and other dogs although in some cases these behaviors are carried out for slightly different reasons. Therefore these behaviors that started in early infancy become part of a dog’s behavior repertoire often because they have a history of reinforcement or they have been inadvertently reinforced by owners. Here are a few examples of et-epimeletic behaviors retained into adulthood:

Whining, barking or howling for care and attention.
Emitting distress calls when separated from owners as seen in separation anxiety..
Yelping out of pain.
Begging at the table asking to be fed.
Hand and face licking directed towards humans.
Licking the lips of other dogs so to seek information or exhibit deferential greeting behaviors.

Did you know? Karen Overall in the book “Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats” explains that lip licking is sometimes seen in dogs who have been separated from another dog for some time and are trying to gain information. The dog who is licked may open the mouth to provide a respiratory sample that carries neurochemical information such as food and behavior state.

References:

Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems, By Steve Lindsay, Iowa State University Press; 1st edition (2001)
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)
Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog, By John Paul Scott, John L. Fuller, University of Chicago Press; 1 edition (July 10, 2012)
Pet Place, Understanding Canine Maternal Behavior, by Nicholas Dodman, retrieved from the web on April 28th, 2016.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Dog Word of the Day: Egg-Shaped Head

June 27, 2016April 27, 2016 by Admin

According to James Serpell, Professor of Animal Ethics & Welfare at the School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, the dog is the most variable living mammal on earth, coming in many shapes and sizes, therefore it’s not surprising if there are so many anatomical differences among one dog and another. It’s therefore not surprising that we have quite a variety of different head shapes in dogs including wedge heads, deer heads and apple heads. Today’s spot of honor though is dedicated to the egg-shaped head, which is quite unique and therefore found only in a couple of dog breeds.

The Egg-Shaped Head

What exactly is an egg-shaped head? As the name implies, it’s a head that has an oval appearance that resembles the shape of an egg or a rugby or American football. The head’s outline is therefore oval, curving gently downwards and there is a lack of hollows or indentations. Basically, an egg-shaped head totally lacks a stop.

What is a stop? It’s that indentation that starts from the dog’s forehead and ends at the muzzle that is commonly seen in most dogs. It’s particularly evident when the head is seen from one side. In the picture to the right, you can clearly see a dog with the stop. It’s that dip in the dog’s forehead right between the eyes and the muzzle.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Breeds With Egg Heads

What dog breeds have an egg-shaped head? There seem to be only a couple. In the bull terrier, the egg-shaped head is its most recognizable feature along with its triangular eyes which gives this breed its desirable “varminty” expression. According to the American Kennel Club standard for this breed, “Full face it should be oval in outline and be filled completely up giving the impression of fullness with a surface devoid of hollows or indentations, i.e., egg shaped. In profile it should curve gently downwards from the top of the skull to the tip of the nose.”

The other breed that has an egg-shaped head is the miniature bull terrier, which is the smaller version, but categorized as a separate breed by the AKC. The miniature bull terrier shares the same head standard requirements than the standard bull terrier.

A Look Back

One may assume that the egg-shaped head would be a product of evolution, but it’s actually man-made, the product of many years of selective breeding. The bull terrier’s history dates back to an era when in England bull and terrier crosses were used in blood sports and vermin control. These bull and terrier crosses were obtained by crossing Old English terriers with Old English bulldogs. Bull and terrier crosses were soon quite popular as they combined the speed of the terriers with the tenacity and strength of the bulldog.

In the mid 19th century, James Hinks of Birmingham, England, started crossing existing bull and terriers with his white bulldog “Old Madman” and various”English white terriers” which are now extinct. He also mixed in other dog breeds. The products of his breedings were white dog with better legs and a nicer head. Back at that time, these dogs were called the “Hinks breed” and the “White Cavalier” but they didn’t have an egg-shaped head yet. Hinks aimed for a gentleman’s companion rather than a pit fighter, so he focused on producing white dogs meant to sit alongside gentlemen as they drove their carriages around parks. There is belief that Dalmatian blood was added for elegance, and then borzoi and collie blood was added too so to elongate the head and reduce the stop. The first modern bull terrier produced in 1917 was “Lord Gladiator” which had no stop at all. Soon, most bull terriers specimens were selectively bred to be without stops.

Did you know? At the time the bull terrier was created by Hinks, the British were ruling India and Pakistan and brought along bull terriers and English White Terriers, creating the Indian Bull Terrier and the Pakistani Gull Terr, which many consider as being similar to the original Hinks Bull Terrier without the exaggerated head shape of contemporary show bull terriers. Today, there’s a renewed interest in recreating the old Hinks bull terrier.

References:

Live Science, How did dogs get to be dogs? by Remy Melina, retrieved from the web on April 27th, 2016
Encyclopedia of K9 Terminology, By Edward M. Gilbert, Jr, Patricia H. Gilbert, Dogwise Publishing; 1st edition (September 18, 2013)
United Kennel Club, Bull Terrier Official Breed Standard, retrieved from the web on April 27th, 2016
The New Complete Dog Book: Official Breed Standards and All-New Profiles By The American Kennel Club, Lumina Press; 21st ed. edition (November 11, 2014)

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

What is the Difference Between a Siberian Husky and an Alaskan Malamute?

August 25, 2016April 26, 2016 by Admin

Sometimes dog breeds may closely resemble each other making them difficult to tell apart, and the Siberian husky and Alaskan malamute are often two dog breeds that are easily confused. Let’s first take a glance at their similarities: they are both Nordic breeds with a history of pulling sleds, they both have a wolfish appearance, and they are both categorized by American Kennel Club under the working dog group. To untrained eyes, these dogs dog breeds may therefore look quite similar, but once you take a look at them side-by-side, you are more likely to notice their differences. So today’s trivia question is: what is one main difference between the Siberian husky and the Alaskan malamute?

A: The Malamute is larger than the Siberian husky

B: The Malamute has a double coat while the Siberian husky has a single coat

C: The Malamute has blue eyes while the Siberian husky has brown

D: The Malamute has a tail that is always carried on the back while the husky always keeps it low

The correct answer is…. drum roll please!

The correct answer is: A, the Malamute is larger than the Siberian husky.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Differences between the Siberian Husky and the Alaskan Malamute

On top of being of a different size, there are some other differences between the Siberian husky and the Alaskan malamute that are worthy of pointing out. While it may be difficult telling these two breeds apart when you see one specimen one day and then the other on another day, once you put these two breeds side-by-side the differences among them become much more evident. So first let’s take a look at the main differences and then let’s put them together so that we can have better picture of a Siberian husky vs. an Alaskan Malamute.

A Matter of Size

One of the most relevant differences between the Siberian Husky and the Alaskan Malamute is size. The Alaskan malamute, the largest of all the arctic sled dogs, is quite massive when we compare the two and there is a good reason for this. While the Siberian husky is built to be quick and light on his feet so to carry light loads at fast speeds, the Alaskan malamute is instead built to be powerful so he can carry large loads at slow speeds and over long distances. Malamutes are therefore not designed for speed, but for endurance which is why there are heavy boned and have a well-muscled body; whereas the Siberian husky is lighter to the extent that any appearance of excessive bone is at risk for being penalized if we look at the Siberian husky breed standard. When looking at numbers, just consider that male Siberian huskies are expected to be 21 to 23½ inches tall at the withers with a weight ranging from 45 to 60 pounds, while the desirable male Alaskan malamutes freighting specimens are expected to be ideally 25 inches at the shoulders with a weight of 85 pounds.

A Look at the Ears

Another difference between the Siberian husky and Alaskan malamute is ear carriage. In the Siberian husky, the ears are expected to be triangular in shape with slightly rounded tips and they should be placed close to each other and set high on the head.

In the Alaskan malamute the ears are also triangular in shape with slightly rounded tips, but instead of being close to each other, they are set wide apart on the exterior edges of the skull, just lined up with the upper corners of the eyes. According to the American Kennel Club breed standard, when the ears of the Alaskan malamute are kept erect, they give the impression of standing off from the skull. Unlike the husky, high set ears are considered a fault in this breed.

A Look at the Eyes

Even the eyes in these two dog breeds are quite different. The Siberian husky has almond-shaped eyes that can be brown or blue in color. Sometimes huskies are seen with one brown eye and one blue one, a phenomenon known as complete heterochromia or they can have parti-colored eyes, a phenomenon known as sectoral heterochromia. Both instances are acceptable according to the Siberian husky standard.

The Alaskan malamute, on the other hand, is required to have almond eyes as well, but they must be strictly brown, the darker, the better. Contrary to the Siberian husky, in the Alaskan malamute breed having blue eyes is considered a disqualifying fault!

A Look at the Tail

Many people rely on the tail the distinguish a Siberian husky from an Alaskan malamute, but if you don’t know exactly what to look for, things can get a tad bit confusing. Some people will say that the malamute’s tail is up over the back and the husky’s tail is down, but both can carry them both ways based on how they feel, so let’s go more into detail. According to the Siberian husky’s standard, the tail should be well furred and of a fox-brush shape. When the husky is calm, it’s carried just below the level of the topline, but when the husky is attentive to something, it’s carried over the back in a graceful sickle curve. In the Alaskan malamute, the tail follows the line of the spine. Unlike the husky, the tail is well furred and is not supposed to be short furred like a fox brush. When the malamute is not working, the tail is carried over the back (but not curled tightly) and has the appearance of a waving plume.

A Look at the Coat

It’s true that both the Siberian husky and the Alaskan malamute may share some similar coat features, but they also have some differences. The Siberian husky has a double coat that is medium in length, never long, rough or shaggy. All husky coat colors from black to pure white are allowed and there may be a variety of facial markings. Malamutes also have a double coat that should not be long, but they have areas where the coat increases in length such as around the shoulders and neck, down the back, over the rump, on the hindquarters and the tail. When it comes to colors, malamutes may have a coat ranging from light gray to black, sable, and shadings of sable to red. A white blaze on the forehead or a cap over the head is desirable. Because the malamute is mantled, any uneven splashing or broken colors extending over the body is undesirable.

An Overall Look

As seen, the husky and the malamute are quite similar, but yet so different, especially when you put them side-by-side as in the picture above. And it’s not only looks! Temperament wise, the husky is known for being friendly and outgoing. The fact these dogs aren’t overly suspicious of strangers make them poor candidates as a guard dog. They tend to get along with other dogs and are escape artists. The malamute is also friendly and affectionate, loyal and playful. As this breed matures, it tends to develop a certain dignity.

Siberian husky vs Alaskan Malamute Video

References:

American Kennel Club, Alaskan Malamute breed standard, retrieved from the web on April 26th, 2016
American Kennel Club, Siberian Husky breed standard, retrieved from the web on April 26th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Alaskan malamute portrait., by Giardeto team – Own work, GFDL retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaskan_Malamute#/media/File:Alaskan_malamute_Togiak_Sausimayok.jpg

Alaskan Malamute Ch.Windchaser’s The Seventh Son, by SCMW – Own work, CC BY 3.0 retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaskan_Malamute#/media/File:Alaskan_Malamute.jpg

Siberian Husky – przykład umaszczenia (samica), by Kamil Korbik – My dog photos, CC BY-SA 3.0, retrieved from https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Siberian_Husky?uselang=ja#/media/File:Siberian_Husky_-_fot._Kamil_Korbik_2007.jpg

Black and White Siberian Husky by Utopialand – self-made, GFDL, retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siberian_Husky#/media/File:Siberian-husky.jpg

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

I Am Your Dog’s Stomach

June 27, 2016April 25, 2016 by Admin

You may not pay much attention to your dog’s stomach other than when your dog brings food back up from there or when you watch him wolf down food like if there was no tomorrow, but your dog’s stomach is sure a fascinating body part. We often take a dog’s stomach for granted when it’s often doing loads of work, from storing food to preparing it for its further journey down the lower digestive tract. So today’s spot of honor is dedicated to Rover’s stomach, so let’s listen to what our dog’s stomach has to say!

Introducing the Dog’s Stomach

Hello, it’s your dog’s stomach talking! Ever wondered where that whole bowl of food your dog ate goes? In his stomach of course! You see, when your dog eats food, it travels from his mouth down to the esophagus where it then reaches a valve-like structure that’s known as the cardiac sphincter or antrum cardiacum. Just like a valve, this muscular sphincter opens and closes as needed. In between meals, the valve is closed, but when your dog eats or drinks, the valve opens so to allow food and water to reach me. Once the food reaches me, the valve closes again, but it can sometimes be forcefully opened when I am full of air (as it often happens when your dog eats too fast!) and the air pressure forces the valve to open causing your dog to burp. When food makes it past the cardiac sphincter, it finally reaches me and then it’s my turn to go to work!

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

I am Storage Unit

I am a sac-like structure located between the esophagus and duodenum (small intestine) and one of my main goals is to store your dog’s food. When your dog eats, I tend to distend and act as a reservoir, but I am also contracting in the meanwhile so to help mix up and churn the food. As food is ground up, the parts that are mostly liquefied (chyme) are sent to the duodenum for further digestion, while the larger parts remain inside me awaiting to become a more liquid form. This explains why liquid medications or poisons are more readily absorbed compared to solid or semisolid foods.

Did you know? According to veterinarian Race Foster, once ingested, most food leaves the dog’s stomach within twelve hours.

I Aid in Digestion

My interior surface is lined up with several folds known as “gastric folds.” These folds are responsible for grinding up the food your dog wolfs down for breakfast and dinner. On top of that, I secrete acids and enzymes to help break down the food further. The acid I produce is known as hydrochloric acid and it’s very strong! It is thanks to this acid that your dog can digest things that you may not be able to. You would think this acid I produce would harm me, but thankfully, I have a protective lining of mucus that prevents me from auto-digesting myself.

Once I have started the preliminary digestive process, the partially digested food can then be sent to the duodenum (where the main part of the digestion occurs) through the pyloric sphincter. Like the cardiac sphincter, the pyloric sphincter acts as a valve, opening and closing to regulate the flow of food that reaches the duodenum.

When Things Go Wrong

Despite being a simple storage sac that can grind up food and initiate the digestive process, many things can go wrong with me. I can get irritated and inflamed, I may produce too much acid, my protective layers may be affected and I can develop growths and dangerous cancers. On top of that, dogs can swallow things that are unable to pass through me, leading to debilitating blockages.

Gastritis

Gastritis comes from the ancient Greek word gastḗr, meaning “belly” and itis meaning inflammation. There are many things that can cause me to get inflamed. As in humans, viruses and bacteria, ingestion of spoiled food, abrupt dietary changes, certain medications and overeating can irritate me and cause a bout of gastritis. Affected dogs will be vomiting, refuse food and act lethargic. While in several instances the issue is short term and I recover after being fasted (yes, I too benefit from some rest at times!) and offered a dog upset stomach bland diet, repeated episodes of vomiting are often a red flag that there’s some underlying problem that needs addressed.

Presence of Ulcers

As discussed above, when a dog’s cardiac sphincter works well, the valve opens when food and water needs to reach me and then remains in the closed position at other times. However, sometimes the valve can weaken or become damaged, and when this happens, it doesn’t open and close as it should causing some of my acid to seep through and reach the esophagus, causing an esophagitis (yes, now it’s his turn to get irritated.)

While as mentioned I have a protective layer of mucus that prevents me from digesting myself, sometimes when I produce too much acid or my local protective force weakens, or both, the acid I produce may manage to harm me, predisposing me to ulcers. What can cause me to produce too much acid or weaken my protective mucosa? Certain conditions such as mast cell tumors, stress or the administration of anti inflammatories, pain killers and corticosteroids, just to name a few. Affected dogs will typically vomit, lose their appetite and there may be fresh of digested blood in it.

Pyloric Stenosis

As with the cardiac sphincter, the pyloric sphincter may also malfunction. In this case, after undergoing repeated muscle spasms its passage may become narrow, triggering what is known as pyloric stenosis. This condition is more common in small nervous dogs in which it may cause them to occasionally regurgitate partially digested food within two hours of eating. In severe cases, dogs may regurgitate more often leading to weight loss.

Bloat and Torsion

Perhaps, one of the problems I am mostly associated with is bloat which most commonly affects large dogs with deep chests. When I fill up too much with air, I tend to dilate and if I fill up too much, I risk twisting on my axis leading to a potentially life threatening torsion that can cause shock and death if not treated immediately. Affected dogs develop a swollen belly, they may be dry heaving, retching and pacing anxiously. This is a medical emergency!

Foreign Bodies

Dogs can eat the strangest things, and sometimes foreign bodies such as balls, buttons or bones can get lodged somewhere in the gastro-intestinal tract. When something gets stuck inside me, it’s important to take prompt action as foreign bodies can cause me lacerations, erosions and even perforations. When help is sought quickly, vets may retrieve the ingested object through endoscopy, via a tube inserted in the dog’s esophagus with attachments that reach me and allow the foreign item to be grasped. If this option isn’t feasible, the foreign object may need to be removed surgically.

Stomach Cancer

Sadly, I can also get cancer. According to veterinarian Dr. Rance K. Sellon, the most common stomach tumor affecting dogs is adenocarcinoma, followed by lymphosarcoma and smooth muscle tumors (leiomyomas, leiomyosarcomas). Usually, stomach cancer happens mostly in middle-aged to older dogs that present with chronic vomiting, loss of appetite and weight loss. Like in the case of a blockage, the tumor may grow so big that food cannot pass through me so it’s vomited back up, which leads to weight loss as the dog is no longer able to receive food as it should.

The above are just a few of the many things that can go wrong with me. I hope this article has helped you understand me better. As you have seen, I do quite a whole lot! If you wish, you can compare my workload to a washing machine, where food is loaded up, rinsed with acids and enzymes and then tumbled out to the intestinal tract. You may want to keep me in good shape so that I don’t make your dog sick and lose his appetite! Keep an eagle eye on your dog to ensure he doesn’t ingest things that he shouldn’t, feed him a easily digestible diet and report to your vet promptly if something seems amiss. Me and your dog will thank you!

Respectfully yours,

Your dog’s stomach.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog has a stomach problem, please see your vet promptly.

References:

Pet Education, Pyloric Stenosis, By Race Foster, retrieved from the web on April 25th, 2016
DVM 360, Gastric ulcer disease in dogs and cats (Proceedings), by Rance K. Sellon, DVM, PhD, DACVIM, retrieved from the web on April 25th, 2016
DVM360, Gastric neoplasms in dogs and cats (Proceedings) by Rance K. Sellon, DVM, PhD, DACVIM, retrieved from the web on April 25th, 2016
Pet Education, Gastritis and Stomach Inflammation in Dogs, by Race Foster, retrieved from the web on April 25th, 2016

Photo credits:

Outline of stomach, showing its anatomical landmarks.Henry Vandyke Carter – Henry Gray (1918) Anatomy of the Human Body (See “Book” section below) Bartleby.com: Gray’s Anatomy, Plate 1046 This is a retouched picture, which means that it has been digitally altered from its original version. Modifications: vectorization (CorelDraw). The original can be viewed here: Gray1046.png. Modifications made by Mysid. Public domain.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]