When it comes to the many types of leashes for dogs, there are several to choose from and the retractable leash is one option. As the name implies, the retractable leash may sound like a good idea as it allows dogs more freedom on walks, but there are several drawbacks when it comes to their efficacy and safety. It’s important to understand how these leashes work before purchasing one as there are several things to become aware of. So today, we’ll be taking a closer look at retractable leashes for dogs, how they work and their pros and cons.
At a Closer Glance
In the world of dog leashes, there are regular leashes that typically come in lengths of 4 to 6 feet and then there are retractable “leashes” which offer the possibility for dogs to wander at distances generally ranging from 15 to 25 feet.
How are these “leashes” made? A retractable leash has a plastic handle which houses a thin cord that releases courtesy of a spring-loaded device that activates when the dog pulls. As the dog walks, the owner has the option to allow the cord to release or retract, thus, dog owners can control how much the leash extends through the use of a button on the handle.
The main appeal of these leashes is the fact that dogs can be granted more freedom for exploration, but as mentioned they have some drawbacks worth mentioning.
Dog behavior can sometimes be prone to certain phenomena that can leave us wondering what may be going on. Let’s see if for today’s trivia you can help solve the mystery behind this case of a dog’s behavior that gets worse before getting better…
Becky owns a smart, five year old border collie mix who goes by the name of Sammy. Sammy has been going through a period of finickiness, not wanting to eat her kibble as usual. Becky, concerned about the behavior, started giving in and feeding her at the table some table scraps. Her vet though said that her dog just had a bout of stomach problems causing her to be finicky, but now that she is doing better, he recommends stop feeding the table scraps as she has already started gaining some pounds and has a sensitive tummy. He therefore tells her to start ignoring her begging behaviors and feed her exclusively a special prescription diet food.
The process of weaning off the table scraps isn’t one of the easiest tasks. With a history of getting table scraps for quite some time, Sammy’s behavior of begging at the table is quite established, but Becky is very determined in not giving in to her dog’s pleading eyes. The first day, Sammy stared at her with intent as usual, but Becky was determined and didn’t give anything. Now, Sammy’s begging behavior seems like they are getting worse, and Becky is starting to feel discouraged even doubt about her vet’s advice to ignore the begging. So today’s trivia question is:
What’s the name of the phenomenon that’s likely behind the worsening of this behavior?
A Incidental Training
B Determinism
C Extinction Burst
D Potentiation Effect
The correct answer is: drum roll please…
The correct answer is: C, an extinction burst.
A Lesson in Etymology
The word “extinction burst” may sound like an odd term that can bring to mind animals that no longer exist or some sort of explosion, but it’s quite an effective term in depicting what is going on once we take a closer look at what it entails. Chances are high that if you own a dog, at some time or another, you may have witnessed this phenomenon.
The word “extinction” comes from the ancient Latin word extinctus, which is the past participle of extinguere which means “to put out, destroy, abolish, extinguish.” The word burst, on the other paw, comes from the Old English word berstan which means to “break suddenly, shatter under pressure.”
Extinguishing Dog Behavior
When it comes to dogs, undesirable behaviors are often what people ask for help with. Dog owners may wish to “stop” certain attention-seeking behaviors from occurring such as begging at the table, jumping, pawing or barking at their owners when bored. Before discovering extinction bursts, let’s first see what happens when a behavior is in the process of extinguishing.
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In psychology, the term extinction is used to the phenomenon where a behavior with a history of reinforcement no longer yields the reinforcing consequences. We know that certain dog behaviors are fueled by attention, so if your bored dog barks at you when you are sitting on the couch and you get up and play with him, your attention will have fueled (the correct term would be reinforced) the barking behavior. The attention given quite often thus allows the barking behavior to stay alive, fueling it like oxygen does to a fire and preventing it from extinguishing.
Introducing the Extinction Burst
In the midst of the process of the behavior extinguishing, one may stumble on an extinction burst. What exactly is an extinction burst? According to the Association of Animal Behavior Professionals, an extinction burst consists of “an initial increase in the rate of responding following the instatement of extinction.”
In the case of the dog’s begging behavior getting worse, it’s therefore undergoing an extinction burst as the owner is no longer, “feeding” the behavior. In the case of the dog barking for attention, the barking gets more persistent and louder.
We can see the same phenomenon in humans. Here’s a practical, real life example. A mom always gives in and buys candy for her child when she cries when visiting the grocery store. Then one day the child’s dentist notices the candy is ruining the child’s teeth. So from the next day, no more candy. The child cries, and cries and cries throwing a temper tantrum but mom is determined not to give in.
What happens though after several day in a row of not buying candy? The behavior of crying gets temporarily worse but then eventually extinguishes just like a fire that is deprived from oxygen.
Extinction Burst: “A characteristic of extinction. If a previously reinforced behavior is not reinforced, the animal will increase the intensity or frequency of the behavior in an attempt to earn the reinforcement again. If the behavior is not reinforced it will diminish again after an extinction burst.”~ Karen Pryor Academy Glossary
What’s Likely Happening
What’s behind an extinction burst? The worsening of the behavior is likely a build-up of frustration/motivation due to the lack of reinforcement. It’s as if the dog is saying “Hey, what’s up? Usually when I look at you eating you slip me a slice of turkey, what’s going on today? I am here, see me?” Or in the case of the dog barking for attention “Yo! Bark, bark, bark, what part of my bark you don’t understand? You always play with me when I bark! I’ll bark louder so you pay attention to me!” Or in the case of the child “Mom, I want candy! You always got me candy, I want candy! Get me candy! Nooooowwww!”
Interestingly, during an extinction burst the behavior may not only increase and become more insistent, but variability may also set in under the form of new behaviors added into the mix. The dog who has always begged at the table by looking at the owner with pleading eyes, may now start also pawing or barking. The dog who has always barked to get the owner to play may now start jumping on the owner as he ignores him. The child who has always cried to get candy, may now stomp her feet on the ground and scream. According to Pierce & Cheney, 2004 , this change in behavior is called “resurgence.”
“Resurgence: The increase in topographic variability during extinction after a period of reinforcement…”~ (Pierce & Cheney, 2004). “
Tip: When the extinction burst happens, it might feel frustrating for dog owners to witness and it may be tempting to get mad at the animal and correct him. Instead, it’s very important to understand what is going on and be appreciative for the animal trying hard to overcome “their mental road blocks.”
Persistence is Key
When dog owners stumble on the extinction burst they may start doubting and wonder if their behavior modification program is truly working. “The vet told me to ignore the behavior, but the begging is getting worse, maybe it’s time to change protocol?” Changing protocol though could be a big mistake. The fact an extinction burst takes place is a sign that what is being done is actually working! A little more persistence in further ignoring the behavior will therefore likely yield to extinction.
The worst thing one can do during an extinction burst is giving in such as buying the child candy when he’s throwing the temper tantrum just to shut him up. This would fuel the behavior even more than before, turning it into a bigger fire that is always more and more difficult to extinguish! Next time, you can bet when the child doesn’t get candy, he’ll be turning into a scaled down version of the Incredible Hulk!
Not Always a Bad Thing!
Extinction bursts are not always a bad thing! First and foremost, as we have seen, if you are trying to extinguish an unwanted behavior, the extinction burst is a good sign, meaning that things are progressing and that after the hill, if you persist in not reinforcing it, you’ll likely have a smooth road ahead. Terry Ryan, dog trainer and author of the book “Coaching people to train their dogs” likes to tell her clients when they stumble on their first extinction bursts and get discouraged: “Great! He got worst! That means extinction is working!”So if you continue withholding reinforcement, the behavior will eventually weaken and eventually vanish.
Adding Motivation/Intensity
On top of this, extinction bursts can also be used to your advantage in training your dog. So let’s say you are trying to train a behavior, but you want to see more motivation or variability. In the case of increasing motivation, let’s imagine we are training our dog to do attention heeling, where the dog looks up at you while walking. We reward the dog for looking up at us quite often while walking, we have been doing this for some time, but at some point, we want our dog to look to be a bit more motivated so to create a flashier looking heeling. So we stop rewarding as often. The dog at some point may look at us with more motivation. This is when we want to lavishly praise and reward! We can see an example of this increase in motivation in the video below.
Adding Variability
As mentioned, extinction bursts can also be helpful to add variability. So let’s say, you want to train your dog to play the piano using his paws, but your dog is using his nose all the time. After rewarding nose touches every single time for a while, you stop rewarding them. Your dog at this point may get a tad bit frustrated, and wonder what’s up since he’s no longer being rewarded. “Hey! Don’t you see me? I am using my nose to play! Look at me, see me? I’ll do it again, and press even more!”
At some point though your dog may think of trying something else to gain reinforcement, perhaps something he has done in the past that has gained it. So he might at some point decide to use his paws. Bingo! “You click and reward the behavior. In the meanwhile, your dog may think something along the terms of “Aha! so this is the behavior that now gains a reward!” and soon your dog is on his way to playing with his paws more and more.
Warning: removing reinforcement too early in training or with dogs who are inhibited and tentative in offering variable behaviors may discourage them and cause them to give up rather than trying harder!
Here’s an Example of Extinction Burst, where during the second half of the video, the dog being reinforced less often than before, starts working harder when pulling the laundry out and pushing it into the owner’s hand!
References:
Association of Animal Behavior Professionals, Glossary, retrieved from the web on May 24th, 2016
Karen Pryor, Click Training Terms, retrieved from the web on May 24th, 2016
Legacy Canine; 2 edition (January 1, 2008) Coaching People to Train Their DogsPaperback– January 1, 2008
You might have never heard about your dog’s inter-ramal tuft, but rest assured, you have likely noticed this anatomical feature on your dog many, many times. This technical sounding word simply refers to that little batch of whiskers found under your dog’s chin. It may feel tempting at times for some dog owners to grab a pair of scissors and remove these hairs, but it’s worthy of thinking it over twice, especially after we discover why these hairs are there in the first place and the important role they play in a dog’s life. So today, let’s have the dog’s inter-ramal tuft do the talking so that we can better understand these facial hairs and tell us their story.
Introducing the Dog’s Inter-Ramal Tuft
Hello, and thank you for stopping by and listening to my story! I am your dog’s inter-ramal tuft, a solitary tuft of hair found under your dog’s chin. My name may appear a tad bit technical and some people like to refer to me as simply the “tuft of whiskers under the chin.” This is fine with me too, as I technically fall under the whisker category.
You see, when people think about dog whiskers, they tend to mostly think about the hairs sprouting from the dog’s muzzle, right above the lips. These whiskers are known as “mystacial whiskers” perhaps because they appear in the area where in humans mustaches tend to grow. Dogs have more whiskers though, such as those found on top of the eyes (superciliary), by the cheeks (genal) and then under the chin (yup, that’s me, the inter-ramal tuft!) As other whiskers, I am made of thick hairs that often sprout from a dark little spot of skin.
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I Transmit Information
Not many people give thought to dog whiskers, but they are not there just for decoration, they actually have a purpose. You see, dog whiskers are a tad bit different from the rest of your dog’s hair. They are thicker, longer hairs that are equipped with hair follicles that are heavily innervated with sensory nerves. You can think of them as powerful antennas that provide sensory information. Basically, when something in your dog’s environment rubs against them, they tend to vibrate and stimulate nerves in the hair follicles, explains veterinarian Dr. Mary Fuller. The stimulated nerves then transmit information to the brain under the form of feedback about their surroundings. If you think about it, this explains why whiskers are also known as “vibrissae.” The word vibrissae comes from the Latin word “vibrio” which means to “vibrate.”
The World Below Me
Think cars and only trucks have blind spots? Think again! Dogs have blind spots too and one of them is just under their chins. Now you know why your dog has sometimes a hard time seeing that treat you just tossed him that is right under his nose! While your dog’s mystacial whiskers provides your dog with sensory information about what is on his left and what is on his right, I provide your dog with information on what is found right beneath his head so to keep him informed and safe.
So it is thanks to me, the inter-ramal tuft, that your dog is able to tell how close or far his head is from his food bowl and water bowl. I also help dogs when they go on their digging adventures and try to fit their heads in holes or inside tunnels or when they sniff with their noses close to the ground. From an evolutionary standpoint, I have a history of helping dogs they were digging with their noses and nosing around looking for foods near the ground.
Take Good Care of Me
As seen, I am not just sitting there thumb dwindling all day nor am I am there for decorative purposes. I perform some important functions to keep your dog’s head protected and safe. I therefore tend to cringe when I see dogs going to the groomer and having me chopped off just to provide for “a cleaner” outline of the jaw. Many times groomers are forced to chop me off, as it would be very difficult to avoid me as the dog’s facial hairs are trimmed off (think poodles). However, the good news is that once trimmed off, I will readily grow back. In the meanwhile though, according to veterinarian Roger L. Welton, your dog will need to adjust to the way he senses his surroundings.
I hope this has helped you understand me better! Hiding, down right under your dog’s chin, I live a bit in the shadow, so it is easy to forget about me! Now that you know me better, you can have a better idea of what I do when you watch your dog navigate the world. In the meanwhile, I send you dear regards.
Your Dog’s Inter-ramal Tuft.
Did you know? According to Stanley Coren, there are several areas of the dog’s brain purposely crafted to register tactile information. Out of all these areas, nearly 40 percent is dedicated to the regions of the dog’s facial area, particularly the areas of the dog’s upper jaw.
References:
Vet Street, What’s the Deal With… Whiskers? by Dr. Mary Fuller, retrieved from the web on May 23, 2016.
Psychology Today, Why do Dogs Have Whiskers, by Stanley Coren, retrieved from the web on May 23, 2016
They say eyes are the windows to the soul, and those brown eyes in dogs are truly expressive! When it comes to dogs, Mother Nature seems to have equipped the majority of dogs with brown eyes and made it the default color, but occasionally you may stumble on dogs with other eye colors. This seems to also be a common pattern in many other animals, with brown being the most popular color on the palette when it comes to eye colors. Despite the fact that dogs are likely the most varied looking animal on earth (they come in so many shapes, colors and sizes!) it may seem a bit peculiar that Mother Nature got a bit stingy in the eye color department, but for sure she was generous in giving those brown eyes different hues. Whether your dog has amber eyes, hazel eyes or light brown, medium brown or dark brown eyes they sure have quite an expressive touch!
A Matter of Melanin
What determines how dark a dog’s eyes will become? Genetics aside, it’s a matter or melanin. The colored eye part of the eye that encircles the dog’s black pupils is known as the “iris” and its pigmentation varies from one dog and another depending on its concentration of melanin, a pigment that is responsible for giving color to skin, coat and eyes.
Therefore, dogs with brown eyes have a greater concentration of melanin in their iris compared to dogs with lighter colored eyes. Without melanin, dogs would be albino and have a white coat, pink skin and likely their eyes would be pinkish in color.
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Age of Onset
Melanin production doesn’t start from the get-go. Because of this, most puppies are born with blue eyes. As the pups develop, their eyes will turn their permanent color at around 2 months of age, explains Stanley Coren in the book: “Do Dogs Dream? Nearly Everything Your Dog Wants You to Know. ” By this time, most puppies will therefore develop brown eyes. No change by this time frame may be indicative that the blue eyes are likely to stick around in dogs genetically prone to having blue eyes.
Coat Color Matters
The shade of eye color in dogs can also vary based on coat colors. For example, according to Powerscourt Cocker Spaniel Breeders, in a puppy with a merle coat, the blue eyes will fail to darken because the merle gene dilutes the melanin pigment, therefore the blue eye color becomes permanent in this case.
When it comes to brown eyes, certain shades are exclusively seen in certain coat colors. For instance, according to Dog Genetics, liver dogs always have amber eyes as the liver gene dilutes the brown eyes to amber and the nose is diluted to light brown. Amber eyes may range from light brown as seen in the Pharaoh hound and Anatolian shepherd, to yellow or even almost grey as seen in the Weimaraner. Amber eyes are also popular in dogs with a blue or isabella coat, and sometimes amber or copper eyes are present in dogs with black pigment.
A Softer Look
Most dog breed standards call for dark brown eyes in our canine companions. Interestingly, canines in the wild instead have lighter colored eyes compared to our domesticated dogs. Wolves, which are the dog’s ancestors, often sport an eye color ranging from gold, to amber or light brown with hues of yellow or even gray, claims Lisa Dube Forman, an American Kennel Club Dog Show Judge for Irish Wolfhounds and Afghan Hounds.
There may be chances that domesticated dogs were selectively bred to have darker eyes due to cosmetic appeal. Lighter colored eyes referred to as the yellow “bird of prey” color is often frowned upon in several breed standard (it’s a serious fault in the Rottweiler and means for disqualification in the cane corso and Polish lowland sheepdog breed) as it tends to give dogs an unappealing harsh look according to the American Kennel Club.
Dogs With Beautiful Brown Eyes
References:
Dog Genetics, Eye Colors, retrieved from the web on May 22nd, 2016
Do Dogs Dream?: Nearly Everything Your Dog Wants You to Know, By Stanley Coren, W. W. Norton & Company; 1 edition (July 16, 2012)
Encyclopedia of K9 Terminology By Edward M. Gilbert, Jr, Patricia H. Gilbert, Dogwise Publishing (August 30, 2013)
American Kennel Club, Glossary, retrieved from the web on May 22nd, 2016
Powerscourt, W. W. Norton & Company; 1 edition (July 16, 2012) retrieved from the web on May 22nd, 2016
The Canine Chronicle, The Eyes Have It, By Lisa Dube Forman, retrieved from the web on May 22nd, 2016
OK, dogs may not really hate the mailman, but let’s face it: barking at the mailman seems to be a dog’s favorite hobby. As soon as the truck arrives, otherwise friendly Rover turns into a barking beast and starts lunging at the window or gate as if dealing with his worst enemy, what gives? The above cliche’ is so widespread that postal service employees have started attending seminars on safety around dogs and sometimes carry products to keep dogs away. Until dogs can talk, we may miss out the exact reasons as to why they react in such a way, but we can make some educated assumptions. So here are some reasons why dogs may “hate” the mailman. So Rover, what’s the matter with the mailman?
He’s Coming Into My Territory!
No offense, it’s not only the mailman. Dogs may react in similar ways towards the UPS and Fedex workers, the pizza delivery guys and the plumber, electrician and the poor fellow who comes into your home to fix your cable TV. It’s not a matter of who, but a matter of what these people do. What do they do? From a dog’s perspective they are intruders who are trespassing property. They are loud, uninvited and don’t stop by to say hello. Many dogs have a natural inclination for passively alert barking and some may engage in a more active approach that’s meant to protect territory. There is likely also an element of fear at play when it comes to territoriality, but shhhhh… dogs don’t want you to know about this!
Why they do this: The behavior may be reminiscent of the old days when the dog’s ancestors lived in packs and they had an innate tendency to be alert and protect their resources through urine marking and more active displays tended towards intruders who weren’t part of their social groups and ignored their scent marks invading their “no-passing zones.” When dogs were domesticated and used in villages, their watch dog tendencies were further appreciated. Dogs were selectively bred for their ability to bark when they spotted dangers such as predator animals or enemies. Still as today, many dogs are still appreciated for their alarm barks, even though nowadays a more active role may be frowned upon due to its potential for liability.
He Keeps Coming Back!
What makes dogs really upset about postal workers is that despite all their barking directed towards these delivery guys, they keep coming back and gain no validation as other guests entering the home. These postal workers therefore risk gaining the status as eternal intruders and they fail to hang around long enough for your dog to get accustomed to them, but let’s take a closer look at the dynamics through Rover’s perspective.
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Why they do this: The dog sees the mailman so he starts barking, and every time he barks, the mailman leaves (because that’s part of what mailmen do, deliver the mail and then leave to continue their jobs). From Rover’s perspective, his barking is what is making the mailman leave and therefore it’s highly reinforcing. You can almost hear him thinking out loud “Hey, intruder, get off my turf, you hear me?” So when the mailman leaves, the dog feels some relief, “Phewwww, finally got rid of that intruder!” So every time the mailman comes over to delive mail, Rover will stick to his barking behavior, and if the mailman doesn’t leave right away, he may even add some lunging, growling or snarling into the mix.
To put ourselves in our dog’s shoes, let’s imagine the following scenario. Every morning, a cat comes into your yard. You like cats, but many stray cats are fixated on urine marking your favorite flowers and wall, leading to a terrible odor. So one day you start making a hissing sound to send the cat away. The cat flees promptly upon hearing the sound, so most likely, since it worked, you’ll keep hissing the next time you see the cat approaching your property, but what happens that day a bolder cat approaches and he cares less about your hissing noise? Most likely, you’ll experiment with something else so you may start stomping your feet loudly along with the hissing. Tada! Now, next time you’ll likely hiss and stomp to get rid of the next feline intruder.
Practice Makes Perfect!
When dogs are allowed to rehearse behaviors over and over, they are destined to become habitual. This means they’ll be barking at the mailman every single time.
Why they do this: Dogs are habitual creatures that tend to repeat behaviors that work. Day after day, the barking becomes almost reflexive and it takes just the noise of the truck to elicit barking, without thinking twice.
Not only, there are also chances that the behavior may become even a tad bit addicting. On top of the barking becoming highly reinforcing, it’s possible that associated emotions of fear or anger cause the release of chemicals in the dog’s brain. This whole experience can become physiologically addictive. James O’Heare, in the book “The Canine Aggression Workbook” explains how this chemical bath can become quite addictive, which explains why certain behaviors tend to repeat over and over.
When it comes to fear or aggression, it can generalize quite quickly like a forest fire. Your dog may bark at the mailman, and then his behavior may generalize towards other postal workers, then next, is the pizza guy and then comes the electrician. Also, the barking behavior may also happen earlier and earlier as the dog chains one event with another. So while the barking originally started when the mailman would park his truck in front of your home to place the mail in the mail box, after a few days it could evolve to barking at the mere sound of the truck approaching. So it’s not surprising if soon, not only will dogs bark at the mailman but also to all the anticipatory cues that suggest his arrival. So just like a small spark can trigger a fire, the barking behavior can evolve and get out of hand, and the more time lapses, the more the behavior can become difficult to extinguish, so here are a few tips on nipping the behavior in the bud.
Helping Your Dog Accept the Mailman
If friendly Rover has just started turning into Cujo the moment you get mail, here are some tips for you:
Start early. With this type of training you can’t start early enough. If you have a puppy, make sure you socialize him to all types of people (children, babies, teenagers, the elderly, people wearing hats, people wearing uniforms, people carrying stuff, etc) Let people visit your home, make it fun and rewarding and teach your puppy it’s perfectly fine to have people over. As soon as your pup sees people approaching your home, ask him to sit and give him a cookie. Do this frequently enough, and your pup will come to realize that great things happen when people approach your property. To teach your pup to love the mailman, introduce him from a young age. If your pup is hanging around the yard, place a cookie in your mailbox and ask your mailman to deliver it to him every morning. After some time, you may notice tail wags and possibly barks of happy anticipation!
Prevent Rehearsal. If you missed the train and failed to teach your dog to love the mailman, you may have more homework to do. A good place to start is preventing rehearsal of barking behavior before it becomes too ingrained. This is done through management. So stop allowing your dog to rush out and bark his head off at each delivery. Keep him indoors and cover your windows with window film, if your dog rushes to the window to bark. Keep your dog in a room that’s far enough from street sounds.
Create Positive Associations. Secluding your dogto a room from which he can’t see the mailman, may do nothing to curb the behavior, but it’s a starting point as you plan on working to change the behavior. The goal is to change your dog’s emotions about the mailman changing him from foe to friend so that he feels like welcoming him instead of sending him away. First, you will need to find a distance from which your dog doesn’t react much, next you will need to gradually and systematically expose him while feeding high value treats at the sights and sounds of the approaching mailman. Once he is gone, make all the goodies stop. Good things happen only when the mailman is around, get it? So now instead of being worried about these intruders taking away resources and invading property, now these postal workers are welcomed and become actual sources of resources!
Did you know? Patricia McConnell in her book “The Cautious Canine” suggests having the pizza delivery guy come to your home and deliver a slice of pizza just for your dog to create positive associations.
Warning: always make safety your top priority! Behavior modification can come with risks for you (re-directed bites) and others. Never let your dog free to greet the mailman no matter how much he has progressed. Doing so can potentially hurt your mail man. If you have given your dog treats every time he sees the mail man and you wish to progress and have your mailman hand feed them, it’s best to have your mail man toss them safely through the fence rather than having him risk being bit from direct exposure! If your dog is aggressive in any way, please consult with a veterinary behaviorist, a certified applied animal behaviorist or a force-free trainer well-versed in dog behavior modification.
References:
“The Canine Aggression Workbook” by James O’ Heare, Dogpsych Publishing; 0003- edition (December 1, 2007)
The Cautious Canine-How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears2nd Editionk, by Patricia B. McConnell McConnell Publishing, Ltd.; 2nd edition (June 1, 1998)
Photo Credits:
Flickr Creative Commons, Taro shiba and his USPS pose, by Taro the Shib Inu, edited by adding title and formatting, CC BY 4.0
Flickr Creative Commons, Oh Yeah! by torbakhopper,”woof” he doesn’t even see the mail man in the background (CC BY 4.0)
Hey, what’s that foot pad doing all alone on the dog’s front legs, right above the wrist? One may wonder at this point whether it’s a vestigial structure, in other words, an anatomical feature that no longer seems to have a purpose in the dog’s life. Last time we checked, it just sat there and Rover didn’t seem to put it to good use. However, just because we haven’t seen our dogs putting that foot pad to use, doesn’t mean that it’s useless and not worthy of existing! So today, we’ll be discovering the fascinating function of a dog’s carpal pads.
A Lesson in Anatomy
To better understand the function of the dog’s carpal pads, let’s first learn more about paw pads. Upon lifting your dog’s front paw (avoid doing this if your dog doesn’t like having his paws handled) you will notice several paw pads.
The largest of all is the central heart-shaped metacarpal pad surrounded by the several smaller digital pads associated with each toe. These paw pads are made of thick layers of fat and connective tissue and comprises five (yes, you heard it right five!) layers of skin so your dog can walk comfortably over several terrains. A little bit higher, on the inside of the leg is the dewclaw, another digit with its associated nail.
Then, hanging around the wrist area, you’ll find the dog’s carpal pad. This pad is similar in structure to the other paw pads but it doesn’t have an associated nail, it’s only found on the dog’s front feet and it’s also known as “stopper pad.”
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Do these little hints help you get an idea about what’s the original purpose of the dog’s carpal pads?
Did you know? According to the book “Peak Performance EBook: Coaching the Canine Athlete, by Canine Sports Productions, the skin on the dog’s foot pads is the thickest skin on your dog’s body.
Anti-lock Braking System
So far, we know that a dog’s carpal pads hang around the dog’s wrist area, that they are made of very tough skin and that they are only present on the dog’s front legs. We also know that they are sometimes referred to as “stopper pads.” So what’s the purpose of these pads? If you are still scratching your head, no worries! Their functions aren’t as obvious as we barely can see them in action unless we can witness stop action movements when dogs run at full speed.
According to veterinarian Chris Zink, in the midst of when a dog canters, there’s a brief moment when the carpal pad makes contact with the ground as the other front leg and the rear legs get ready for the next stride. During this time, should the dog decide to make a quick turn or stop abruptly, the carpal pad, along with its associated dewclaw, provides extra traction, and should the dog decide to stop, it’ll work as a braking device, hence its name “stopper pad.”
Bumper and Balancing Act
If you also watch carefully as your dog lands after a jump, you may also notice how the carpal pad makes contact with the ground.
Many dog owners have witnessed their dogs shaking their fur at some time or another, but what makes these dogs shake their bodies in the first place? As with other doggy behaviors, the reasons why dogs may engage in a full body shake may vary based on context. We often see dogs shake their bodies when their coat is wet or when they get up after a nap, but sometimes these body shakes may seem to occur for no reason at all, but there may be possible explanations that are worthy of discovering.
1) To Get Rid of Water
It’s one of those classic scenes you often see portrayed on newspaper comic strips or in movies or commercials. A dog is given a bath and right upon coming out of the tub he scrolls his fur vigorously with an accomplished look on his face. Those who know their dogs well often prepare in advance for it by taking precautionary measures to avoid the ubiquitous droplets flinging off the dog’s fur. Those who are caught unprepared instead get to enjoy a complimentary shower.
We know that dogs shake their bodies to get rid of the excess water on their coats, but what makes them scroll their fur in the first place? The famous doggy rinse cycle, stems from an innate instinct and dogs didn’t have to take a Dog Drying 101 class to master it. This behavior is adaptive, meaning that it’s productive and has therefore contributed to the animal’s individual’s survival or reproductive success. In the wild, when furry animals get wet in cold weather, there are high risks for hypothermia to set in should they not be able to dry themselves quickly. Thanks to the full body shake, animals can use a mechanism that is similar to shivering so they can effectively dry themselves within minutes, explain Andrew K.Dickerson, Zachary G.Mills and David L.Hu in a study published in the Journal of the Royal Society Interface. This fast and energy efficient doggy rinse cycle therefore allows dogs to conserve energy as carrying a heavy coat and generating heat to allow it to evaporate can be quite consuming from an energetic standpoint.
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Did you know? Allowing a wet 60-pound dog to carry an extra pound of wet fur and allowing it to evaporate would take approximately 20 percent of his daily caloric intake!
2) To Get Rid of Debris
You’re familiar with the drill: your dog wakes up from a nap, stretches, then takes a step, slows down and then engages in a full head-to-tail body shake. Afterward, the dog goes back to his usual activities. Why do dogs scroll their fur after waking up?
Again, this behavior is reminiscent of a dog’s past, but this time dogs aren’t getting rid of excess water, rather their focus is to remove anything that could have clung to the dog’s fur while sleeping. Before dogs were allowed to sleep on sofas, couches or Kuranda beds, their sleeping areas encompassed grass, dirt and other natural surfaces. It is therefore instinctive for dogs to shake their bodies after lying down so they could remove any dirt, awns, dust and debris from their coats.
3) To Remove Irritation
Deprived from opposable thumbs, dogs must find alternate ways to rid themselves from an annoying itch. Sure, they can use their legs and teeth to scratch certain spots, but for those few areas that are hard to reach, dogs must rely on other ways to get relief. A nice body shake will often suffix when dogs feel something odd on their coats and attempt to get rid of it. A dog’s coat has several hair follicles supplied with nerves that relay sensory information to the brain which in turn elicits the dog’s fur shaking behavior just when something doesn’t feel right.
This type of body scroll is often seen in dogs after being groomed, which can upset the owners who have worked hard on creating fancy hairdos. Sometimes we must put ourselves in our dogs shoes and realize that back in time, there were no groomers, therefore subjecting dogs to stylish hairdos can make their fur feel weird which may trigger a body shake to get things back to normal. It’s therefore quite normal for dogs to scroll their fur after cleaning their ears or to get rid of that annoying bow on the head that has your dog wonder whether there’s some odd bug crawling on his skin. Other triggers for shaking the fur include the presence of pesky parasites, skin irritations and itchy ears. So should your dog be scrolling his body or his head repeatedly, consider that some sort of irritation such as an ear infection or bad teeth may be the culprit, claims veterinarian Rick Huneke at Washington University School of Medicine.
4) To Shake Off Emotions
We often associate shaking the fur with removing water or some other irritant from the coat, but in some cases, it may be indicative of something going on at an emotional level. When shaking the fur occurs out of context, such as when the dog is not wet or waking up from a nap, it can a sign that the dog is shaking his fur as a sign of relief.
You may stumble on this type of fur shaking after the dog is suddenly pet from a stranger or after encountering another dog that perhaps was a bit grumpy. It’s almost as if the dog says “phewww, glad that’s over!” and by scrolling the fur the dog is getting rid of stress and tension. So it doesn’t hurt to watch in what context the fur shaking behavior occurs as it could be telling us something about the dog’s interaction and how he may feel.
“When I am training dogs, I often look for them to give that quick shake at some point because training can be stressful for them.” ~ Cis Frankel
References:
Urban Dog: The Ultimate Street Smarts Training Manual, By Cis Frankel, Willow Creek Press (September 1, 2000)
MadSci Network, Why do some dogs sometimes shake their heads vigorously after waking up?, retrieved from the web on May 19th, 2016
The Royal Society Publishing, Wet mammals shake at tuned frequencies to dry, Andrew K.Dickerson, Zachary G.Mills, David L.Hu, Published 17 August 2012.DOI: 10.1098/rsif.2012.0429
What is a martingale collar? Also known as greyhound collar or half check collar, the martingale collar may at a first glance almost resembles a regular collar but at a closer look, it comes with an extra twist. This collar may not be as popular as other types of dog collars, but it has some advantages that makes it a preferable choice with certain types of dogs. Nowadays, more and more people are discovering martingale collars which is causing this collar to slowly gain more and more popularity.
Purpose
Designed with sight hounds in mind, the martingale collar is particularly suitable for dogs with necks that are larger than their heads, hence its other names “greyhound collar” or “whippet collar.” Dogs with this type of conformation are more likely to back out of regular buckle collars, therefore the martingale collar was crafted with these dogs in mind.
A martingale collar therefore offers more control but when properly fitted without the choking effect of choke collars. For this reason, this collar is also referred to as ” the humane choke collar.”
As such, martingale collars are not meant to be used with the intention to jerk, choke or intimidate dogs; therefore martingales are not meant to be used as corrective tools.
“It has recently become fashionable again to fit collars which slip, tight up behind the dog’s ears. This disgusting practice seen by some as a ‘miracle’ which stops dogs from pulling, does so because when the lead tightens the collar causes extreme pain to the TMJ’s (hinges of the jaws) and the pressure points at the base of the skull. It is most definitely against the UK APDT policy to use ANY collar to jerk, pull or choke a dog.” ~Association of Pet Dog Trainers UK.
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Design
The martingale collar is equipped with two distinctive loops: the larger loop, which is often made of fabric and is the actual collar that is slipped over the dog’s head and encircles the dog’s neck, and the smaller loop, known as the “control loop,” which can be made of chain or fabric, that has a ring that is used to attach the leash to it.
When the dog tries to back out of the collar, the tension on the leash causes the small loop to become taut, causing the large loop around the dog’s neck to tighten and prevent escape. When the dog is not actively pulling, the collar instead should sit comfortably loose on the dog’s neck.
Pros of Martingale Collars
Following are some advantages of using martingale collars. If you are unsure which type of walking equipment is most suitable for your dog, consult with a reputable, trainer focusing on positive training methods.
Works well for dog breeds with a particular conformation, heads that are smaller than their neck, as seen in several sight hounds such as greyhounds, Italian greyhounds, borzoi, whippets and saluki or rough collies.
Works well for dogs with very smooth hair on their necks which causes regular collars to slip easily off.
Works well with fearful dogs who have a history of slipping out of their collars.
The collar tightens when you need it the most (dog trying to back out and escape)
Works well for fluffy, heavy coated dogs as this collar does not break up the fur on the neck as much as with a standard flat collar.
Doesn’t choke as choke collars do.
The pressure is distributed around the entire neck rather than concentrating in one area (the trachea), which is preferable, but can still cause damage in dogs who pull overtime!
Some models offer now a quick release buckle.
Can be used along with a harness (leash attached to both) as an extra security measure for squirmy dogs.
Cons of Martingale Collars
It is not meant to be worn all day
As with other collars, it can be dangerous if left on during dog play (even if supervised).
May not be readily available in some pet stores
Is not crafted to hold ID tags
Martingales with a chain may rust and stain a dog’s coat.
In order to be safe and effective this collar must be properly fitted.
It is not designed to stop dogs from pulling. A front-attachment harness along with training, can help stop pulling.
References:
Association of Pet Dog Trainers UK, APDT Policy on Half Check Collars, retrieved from the web on May 18th, 2016
Photo Credits:
Martingale collar with chain loop; martingale collars also come with a fabric flat tab or loop instead of a chain, and optional buckles on both styles. by Schizek, public domain
Fiona takes her modeling seriously, by Lindy, Flickr, Creative Commons
There’s a small bump on the roof of a dog’s mouth that is normal part of a dog’s anatomy, but for those who are not aware of it, such appearance can cause concern. It’s one of the main reasons dog owners schedule a panic appointment to see the vet, explains veterinarian Dr. Truli on his website VirtuaVet. Dog owners who notice this bump the very first timeworry as they start thinking about mouth cancers which can often be very aggressive. While it’s good practice to have the vet always check any unusual lumps and bumps, this little bump in the roof of the dog’s mouth is in most cases perfectly normal. So today’s trivia question is:
What’s the exact name of this bump?
A Gum boil
B Epulis
C Incisive papilla
D Oral papilloma
The correct answer is: drum roll please….
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The correct answer is C, the incisive papilla.
All Dogs Have It
Dog owners may casually stumble upon a dog’s incisive papilla one day when their dog is lying down belly up with his mouth open. From this angle, the incisive papilla, which is located at the top of the roof of the dog’s mouth, may become easily visible. To be exact, in a normal, healthy dog, the incisive papilla is located right behind the dog’s top two middle teeth.
The bump may feel hard to touch and some describe it as vaguely resembling a little diamond in shape. Because a picture is worth 100 words, seeing it is far better than describing it in words, so on the left you can see a picture of it along with the dog’s palateal rugae.
Related to Scent
What’s the purpose of this little bump on the roof of the dog’s mouth? Mother Nature hasn’t placed it there just because. The incisive papilla actually has something to do with a dog’s sense of smell. Within this small bump there is a small duct which connects the dog’s nose with his mouth. Basically, it turns out that the dog’s incisive papilla is able to communicate with the vomeronasal organ, a special organ meant for detecting pheromones, substances left behind by certain animals for communicative purposes and that have an impact on the animal on the receiving end.
Horses, deer and goats, upon detecting pheromones, exhibit a distinct lip curl that is known as “flehem.” In a similar fashion, dogs have their own way to analyze pheromones. According to the book “Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat” by Gary M. Landsberg, Wayne L. Hunthausen and Lowell J. Ackerman, by panting and flicking their tongue against the incisive papilla dogs are better able to detect pheromones. The tongue flicks can also be accompanied by teeth chattering and foaming at the mouth. Once the information (at a molecular level) reaches the dog’s brain (the amygdala to be precise), it can trigger an emotional or physiological response.
Problems to Become Aware Of
Normally, the incisive papilla quietly sits there without creating any problems, but there may be times where things can become slightly problematic. In the case of a malocclusion, where the dog’s teeth do not do not align correctly, the lower teeth may end up hitting the roof of the dog’s mouth. According to Animal Dentistry and Oral Surgery Specialists LLC, this may cause the incisive papilla to swell. It’s always good practice to get used to the normal appearance of the dog’s mouth so that dog owners can promptly report to their vet any odd looking lumps or bumps in the dog’s mouth.
References:
“Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat” by Gary M. Landsberg, Wayne L. Hunthausen and Lowell J. Ackerman, Saunders Ltd.; 3 edition (December 28, 2012)
Animal Dentistry and Oral Surgery Specialists, The Oral Exam of Cats, Dogs, Rabbits and Rodents, retrieved from the web on May 17th, 2016
Virtua Vet, Top Five Panic Appointments (That Don’t Have to Be…) retrieved from the web on May 17th, 2016
Not many people are aware that their dogs have cruciate ligaments. Dog owners often unexpectedly end up discovering this structure the very first time when they are at the vet because their dog is exhibiting rear leg limping that doesn’t seem to be getting any better. This body part is often underestimated and lives mostly in the shadow, yet, it plays a very important role in a dog’s ability to happily romp around. Today is dedicated to this fundamental structure which deserves more attention. So let’s have the dog’s cruciate ligament walk the red carpet today and put him on the spot of honor.
Introducing Your Dog’s Cruciate Ligament
Hello, it’s your dog’s cruciate ligament talking! Actually, to be correct, we are actually two: the “anterior cruciate ligament” (ACL) and the posterior cruciate ligament” which is also known as the caudal cruciate ligament (CCL). However, you’ll hear vets talking about the anterior cruciate ligament much more because it’s the ligament that is more likely to cause trouble. So in this article, me, the anterior cruciate ligament (yes, the troublemaker!) will do the most talking. If you take a look at my name, you may notice how the word “cruciate” derives from the Latin word “cruciatus” which means “cross.” The word ligament, on the other hand, derives from the Latin word “ligamentum” from ligare which means “to bind.” What does this all tell you? It tells you that I am a ligament made of fibrous tissue and that the term cruciate is used to refer to the fact that the anterior cruciate ligament and the posterior cruciate ligament criss-cross each other like the letter “X” as seen in the picture.
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I Am A Stabilizer
My main job is to connect one bone to another so to stabilize (‘bind”) an important joint–in this case, we’re talking about the dog’s knee joint to be exact. Both me and my fellow posterior cruciate ligament basically work as a team holding together the femur and the tibia which make up the dog’s knee joint. Your hardly notice my hard work, but rest assured, I am very important! I basically keep your dog’s tibia from slipping forward, while my fellow posterior cruciate ligament keeps the tibia from slipping backwards.
When Things Go Wrong
When all goes well, I help stabilize your dog’s knee joint so your dog can romp around happily without the tibia bone slipping forward and causing an abnormal range of motion, but sometimes accidents happen. How do I rupture in the first place? It’s often an accident. Your dog may have taken a bad step or his leg may have gotten caught in a hole. Dogs who are overweight may be more susceptible to me rupturing especially when they jump off a bed or truck. Large breed dogs are more likely to suffer from my rupture.
If I get torn, things start getting complicating. The knee no longer stabilized, develops an abnormal range of motion and the dog feels pain. Rear-leg limping is the most evident sign of trouble and dogs may engage in sloppy sits (sitting with both legs out to the side) and they may “toe touch” (keep only the tips of the toes in contact with the floor) when standing. Dog owners may delay the vet visit assuming their dog just got a sprain, but it doesn’t get any better after a few days. I am not a fast healing structure, and I can only heal in two ways: a long period of rest (conservative management) or an expensive surgery.
“Almost all dogs with ACL problems sit to the side, even when sitting for a treat. Sometimes the lameness comes on quickly but often it’s a gradual progressive problem.”~Colorado Canine Orthopedics and Rehab
How does the vet test me to check if I am torn? There’s a very specific test called the “drawer sign.” The vet will basically move the dog’s leg a certain way to see if the knee joint feels unstable. The vet basically feels the tibia bone slipping forward, which is the most distinctive sign when I am torn and no longer keeping things together. However, don’t trust this test blindly, if your dog is tense or if the tear has been there for a while, the joint may appear stable, leading to a possible misdiagnosis. For this reason, some vets will opt to have this test done under sedation. X-rays may help provide some hints to rule out bone cancer and check if any secondary arthritis may have set in, because you see, when I am no longer there to stabilize things, the dog’s bones start slipping and rubbing against each other which can lead to arthritic changes down the road.
As seen, I am an important structure! What can dog owners do to prevent me from rupturing? Well, you can’t really keep dogs in a safety bubble, but there are some things that may help. According to the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation, keeping your dog lean and active is a good way to help keep me in good shape as good muscle tone is important!
I hope this has helped you understand me better!
Kind regards,
Your Dog’s ACL
References:
American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation, Stabilizing the Stabilizer, retrieved from the web on Match 16th, 2016
Colorado Canine Orthopedics and Rehab, Clinical Signs of Canine ACL Tear, retrieved from the web on March 16th, 2016
Vet Specialists, Dog Cranial Cruciate Ligament Disease, retrieved from the web on March 16th, 2016