There are several articles featuring dogs with the most unusual coat colors and markings, but one particular dog that is often featured as having a unique coat pattern, actually shouldn’t be there. Why shouldn’t this dog be there? Because this dog in particular isn’t sporting a striking coat pattern as many may assume, but is actually suffering from a particular skin condition that causes a loss of pigment. As striking as this dog may appear, his presence among a compilation of unusual dog coat markings and patterns is therefore a mistake, possibly due to not knowing about this condition.
A Skin Condition
Several of the dogs often making their appearance as having the most striking markings are dogs who are actually suffering from a medical condition known as “vitiligo.” This skin condition is not very common, but it’s surely an attention grabber, and possibly one reason why these pictures of dogs with unusual coat patterns have become popular and gone viral.
Vitiligo causes loss of skin pigmentation affecting the areas around the muzzle, nose and eyes. What causes this skin condition? The exact underlying cause still needs to be discovered, but there’s belief that it results from an autoimmune disorder causing antibodies to mistakenly attack melanin, which is responsible for giving color to a dog’s skin and coat. The skin disorder is believed to be genetic. Triggers may include stress, exposure to toxins and certain neurological factors. This condition seems to affect more certain breeds such as dachshunds, German shepherds, dachshunds and Old English sheepdogs.
Signs and Treatment
The signs of vitiligo are quite straightforward, the dog develops evident patches of non-pigmented skin. Because the hairs covering the non-pigmented skin areas are also affected, white skin patches appear. Vitiligo can start from early puppy-hood, but in the majority of dogs, it develops at a later time. In some cases, the skin condition can also affect the eyes causing the inside of the eyeball to also be discolored.
While there is no treatment to cure this skin disease, there are some therapies that may help. Exposure to sunlight may stimulate the cells responsible for creating melanin (melanocytes) according to Vet Info. Another treatment option is vitamin C, claims veterinarian Dr. Debbie.
References:
Vet Info, Vitiligo in Dogs, retrieved from the web on June 4th, 2016
We know of dog breeds with a wolfish appearance or dogs with or a foxy expression, but there are also some dog breeds that look like bears, with some even looking like the canine impersonation of teddy bears! Of course, these breeds are not the outcome of some love affair going on between Rover and Winnie the Pooh, but we sure can’t ignore their bear-like resemblance. Whether it’s a dog’s long snout or fuzzy coat, turns out there may actual be a scientific reason as to why some dogs may look a bit like bears. Read on to discover the relationship dogs and bears are known to share.
Meat Eaters At Heart
At a first thought, we assume dogs and bears have very little in common. Indeed, dogs belong to the canidae family, whereas bears belong to the ursidae family. This means that they are different species, they have many contrasting characteristics and they cannot breed.
However, at a closer glance we discover that they are both under the order of carnivora, which includes lions, tigers, bears, cats and dogs. Carnivorans are basically animals that derive nourishment from a diet that’s mainly or exclusively made of meat regardless whether it’s obtained through predation or scavenging. However, not necessarily all members of the order Carnivora adhere to a strict meat diet (obligate carnivers), some eat fruits too and are known as facultative carnivores.
Since most of these animals are meat eaters by preference, Mother Nature has made sure to equip these carnivorans with excellent senses, good running abilities ( yes, grizzly bears can outrun a human!) and sharp meat-eating teeth.
Sharing a Suborder
At some point, carnivores split into two distinct suborders: cat-like animals and dog-like animals. The carnivores that split into dog-like forms were categorized under the suborder group Caniformia.
The carnivores that split into cat-like forms instead fell under the suborder group Feliformia.
Bears (with their long snouts and non-retractable claws) therefore ended up being grouped within the caniformia suborder along with dogs. Members of this group can be seen in the picture on the left.
A Step Back in Time
Prior to splitting into dog and cat forms, carnivorans derived from members of the Miacidae family (miacids). Miacids were small carnivores, equipped with little bodies and long tails. Some lived on trees (arboreal), while others lived on the ground. Their teeth included carnassial teeth, but their teeth were overall less developed than those seen in modern carnivorans. Miacids are therefore the ancestors of cats, dogs and bears. In particular, according to National Geographic, a small, tree-dwelling mammal going by the name of Dormaalocyon latouri has been found to is the ancestor of lions, tigers, bears and dogs.
Divergence from miacids into carnivores is estimated to have occurred in the middle-Eocene around 42 million years ago.
As seen, dogs and bears share a little bit of history when it comes to their evolution. In case you’re wondering though, no, bears and dogs cannot mate. Dogs have 78 chromosomes whereas bears have 74.
Just for Fun: Six Fascinating Dog Breeds That Look Like Bears
Let’s face it: there are certain dog breeds that look more like bears than others. This though doesn’t mean that they are more closely related to bears than other dogs. It just means that they have been selectively bred to look that why. As much as these dogs look like cute teddy bears just asking for a hug, please refrain from doing so. Several dogs dislike being hugged, and hugging an unknown dog can be risky business! Following is a list of dog breeds that show a close resemblance with dogs.
The Chow Chow
The Akita
Maremma Sheepdog
Tibetan Mastiff
The Great Pyrenees
Newfoundland
References:
Lindblad-Toh K, Wade CM, Mikkelsen TS, et al. (December 2005). “Genome sequence, comparative analysis and haplotype structure of the domestic dog”.Nature438 (7069): 803–19.
Pastore Abruzzese,November 2006, by Max31055, The original uploader was MGerety at English Wikipedia – Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons by Undead_warrior. CC BY-SA 3.0
We often hear claims about tail docking being a pretty much painless procedure when carried out in young puppies, but many may wonder: How can a procedure like tail docking be painless when we’re talking about cutting through skin, nerves, cartilage and bones? The belief seems to stem from the fact that since tail docking takes place when a puppy is only three-days old, chances are high that his nervous system is immature. New studies today though seem to disprove this belief and suggest that the pain is there and it can be even quite significant.
A Lesson in Anatomy
The dog’s tail is much more than just an appendage, it actually carries many roles including balance and communication. Composed of several highly mobile vertebrae surrounded by muscles, tendons and nerves, the tail has been shown to work as a means for counterbalance when the dog is leaping, climbing or walking on narrow structures. The muscles of the tail also help stabilize the dog’s vertebral column and support the extensor muscles of the back, croup and buttocks. The muscles of the tail therefore also play a role during defecation helping the dog evacuate properly. Docking the tail early can therefore mean failure for the muscles of the tail and pelvis to develop to their complete potential. The problem is not limited to defecation though. A study conducted by Holt and Thrusifield in 1993, also showed increased risks for urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence which leads to urinary incontinence.
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The Tail Docking Procedure
There’s no denial over the fact that a dog’s tail is an important structure of the dog’s body from both an anatomical and physiological standpoint. Tail docking is a procedure that has been dictated by tradition for many years and nowadays involves the amputation of the dog’s tail for cosmetic purposes. It takes place when the puppy is 2 to 5 days old without any anesthesia. More and more veterinarians have stopped performing the procedure and tail docking has been nowadays banned in many countries as it “cannot be justified medically or scientifically.” In 1992, Professor David Morton already questioned whether carrying out the procedure should be considered disgraceful professional conduct for veterinarians. In order to dock a dog’s tail, muscles, tendons and 4 to 7 pairs of nerves along with bone and cartilage are severed.
The Pup’s Nervous System
Dogs are an altricial species, meaning that when they are born, they are in a pretty much helpless state. Indeed, day-old puppies are born blind, deaf and barely capable of moving around. On top of that, during their first days on earth, puppies are also unable to regulate their temperature and require mother dog’s assistance in order to eliminate. Along with these traits, there has been belief for many years that puppies are born with an immature central nervous system along with an immature brain and limited sensory and motor processes. A recent study conducted by Australian veterinarian Robert K. Wansbrough has seem to have finally refuted the premise that “puppies do not feel pain therefore tail docking is not inhumane.”
“Recent advances in knowledge about pain and the changes in approach to pain management refute the premise that ‘Puppies do not feel pain therefore tail docking is not Inhumane’, and also the premise that ‘the pain and the effects of tail docking are insignificant.”~Wansbrough RK.
Debunking Pain Myths
Robert Wansbrough has debunked several myths about pain surrounding tail docking such as the belief that animals do not feel pain as humans do. Even though animals may manifest pain in different ways than humans, we share with them a similar nervous system capable of perceiving pain. Feelman in 1995 found that the pain threshold in humans and animals is actually the same. When it comes to puppies, the myth that their immature nervous system makes them incapable of feeling pain has been debunked courtesy of several studies. One by Anand and Cart in 1989 found that the nerve endings in the skin in newborn animals equals or even exceeds that of adult skin. This suggests the ability to detect pain. According to Wansbrough, the level of pain in day-old pups could be actually greater than an adult because their inhibitory pain pathways are not developed.
Observation of puppies following tail docking is also suggestive of pain. The whimpering and movements suggest substantial pain. Just because puppies may not show pain in the same ways humans do, doesn’t mean it’s not present. Dogs can be quite stoic and dogs tend to hide pain as a form of self-preservation. There is also common belief that, just because puppies go back to nursing right after being docked, means that the procedure is painless, but studies on this seem to reveal quite the opposite. Veterinarian Jean Hofve points out that there is research showing that suckling releases endorphins, natural pain relievers which can explain the desire to nurse after a painful procedure. Dr. Hofve also point out that in the human medical literature newborn humans, who are also altricial, are known to feel pain – “and neonatal pain management in humans is therefore taken seriously. ”
“Although it is difficult to objectively quantify the stress experienced by puppies undergoing tail docking, observations recorded during this study suggest that the animals do experience pain.”~ Noonan et al.
Did you know? According to Veterinary Practice News, Banfield, a company with more than 730 veterinary hospitals in the United States, has stopped docking tails and supporting unnecessary cosmetic procedures since 2009.
References:
WANSBROUGH, R. K. (1996), Cosmetic tail docking of dogs. Australian Veterinary Journal, 74: 59–63. doi: 10.1111/j.1751-0813.1996.tb13737.x
Docking of dogs: practical and ethical aspects, by D Morton, Veterinary Record 1992;131:301-306 doi:10.1136/vr.131.14.301
Holt PE and Thruslield MV (1993) Vet rec 133:177
Anand KJS and Carr DB (1989) Paediatric Clinics Of North Am. 36:795
Noonan, GJ, JS Rand, JK Blackshaw, and J. Priest. “Behavioural Observations of Puppies Undergoing Tail Docking.” Applied Animal Behaviour Science 49 (1996): 335-42. Michigan State University. Web. 8 May 2016.
World Animal Foundation, Cosmetic Surgery for Dogs and Cats, by Jean Hofve, retrived from the web on June 2nd, 2016.
Photo Credits:
Ljgua124 – Own work, Status of docking globally, CC0
By looking at the color of our faces we often can deduce important information about our general state of health; whereas in dogs, the color of their gums can give us a glimpse about their health status and capillary refill time is quite an important piece of information! Contrary to what many people may have heard, a dog’s nose is not the quintessential indicator of health as we may have thought. There are sick dogs with wet noses and healthy dogs with dry noses. That moisture on dog noses may just tell us how much humidity is in the air, just as our lips tend to get dry or stay moist based on weather. So today, we will be learning more on capillary refill time in dogs and how it can help assess our dog’s health.
A Baseline Assessment
Lets face it, dogs don’t get pale as humans do when they are sick, nor do they blush when they are hot or feverish. Fortunately though their gums don’t lie when it comes to giving us an idea about their overall health, which is why vets skip feeling the nose and go straight to taking a peak at the gums and the mucous membranes of the inner lower eyelid instead. It’s important for dog owners to get accustomed to the normal color of their dog’s gums so to recognize early signs of trouble.
A baseline assessment taken when your dog is in good health is therefore helpful so in the case of need, you’ll be able to promptly recognize changes and take action as needed. This may turn helpful should you one day find yourself calling the emergency vet wondering if you need to take your dog in and they ask you to check the color of your dog’s gums. Getting your dog used to having his gums checked from an early age with lots of praise and positive reinforcement is therefore a big plus. Make it fun and rewarding!
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Tip: make it a habit to also check how your dog’s gums feel. A healthy dog that is properly hydrated should have gums that are glistening and slick with saliva. Dry, tacky and sticky gums may be a sign of dehydration.
Capillary Refill Time (CRT)
Because your dog’s gums are closely related to his circulatory system, you can gain a lot of information by just looking at them. Healthy gums are highly vascularized which means that they are supplied with blood through many tiny capillaries. This is what gives your dog’s gums that nice bubble gum color when he’s happy and healthy. Nice pink gums tell us that there is enough oxygen circulating in the bloodstream.
Another way to assess proper blood flow to the dog’s gums, is by calculating capillary refill time which checks the level of blood perfusion. To do this, gently press your finger on your dog’s gum until it blanches (becomes white). Next, release your finger and evaluate how long it takes for the gum to go back to its pink color. Preferably, it should take 1.5 seconds for the blood to return back into the capillaries and for the gum to return to its original color, but less than 2 seconds is fine too, explains veterinarian Ron Hines.
Did you know? In dogs with dark or black gums, this test may be difficult to perform. You may to hunt for a pink spot or bypass this test and just check the color of the dog’s eye tissue instead.
Signs of Trouble
Prolonged capillary refill time is indicative of tissues not receiving sufficient oxygen. According to Pet Education, a capillary refill time is therefore sign that the blood is not flowing as it should. This can happen with several health conditions. For instance, in the case of shock due to internal bleeding, the decreased blood volume causes the dog to become lethargic, have low blood pressure, rapid breathing and prolonged capillary refill times. In a dehydrated dog, the volume of water in the dog’s bloodstream lowers making blood thick, concentrated and difficult to circulate, hence the lower capillary refill times. Dogs with heart problems are also prone to slower refill times too as their heart fails to pump effectively causing blood to not be able to flow to certain areas as it should.
Did you know? A too fast capillary refill time may be a problem too! According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, a fast capillary refill time may be indicative of “fever, heat stroke, distributive shock, or an early compensatory stage of hypovolemic shock.”
References:
Merck Veterinary Manual, Primary Survey (Triage) and Resuscitation, retrieved from the web on May 31st, 2016
Pet Place, Heart Rate, Breathing Rate & Temperature – What Is Normal in Dogs? retrieved from the web on May 31st, 2016
Second Chance Info, Why Is My Dog ‘s Capillary Refill Time Increased? retrieved from the web on May 31st, 2016
With summer quickly approaching, dogs are more likely to spend time in the yard and this makes them more prone to fire ant bites. The dog in this picture got recently stung and as you can see, there is some residual scar tissue to attest the encounter with the pesky fire ants. The name of these ants isn’t casual; when fire ants sting, they produce a toxic substance that is known for causing a burning sensation. Fortunately, in many cases the burning sensation is short-lived and dog owners can use a common household remedy to help reduce the pain and itch associated with these bites. So today’s trivia question is:
What makes an effective dog fire ant bite treatment?
A Apple cider vinegar
B Ginger root
C Epsom salts
D A paste of baking soda and water
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The correct answer is: drum roll please…
The correct answer is: D, a paste of baking soda and water.
Fire Ants and Dogs
Fire ants are common ants in the southern United States that belong to the genus solenopsis. These ants are typically red and are known for living in large mounds made of fluffy worked soil found in open areas. The ants are about 1/8″ to 1/4″ long, and when they are disturbed, they tend to gather and crawl up vertical surfaces nearby their mounds. Because these ants tend to live nearby lawns, in parks or playgrounds, active, inquisitive dogs are likely to encounter them at some point or another. Digging, sniffing and nosing around puts dogs at risk for fire ant bites.
Feels Like Fire
When the fire ants feel threatened, they will sting and inject a toxin called “solenopsin.” The burning sensation may cause a dog to lick the area. A dog’s paws and upper legs are areas commonly stung as the dog walks around and the irritated ants start climbing. Other vulnerable areas are the dog’s muzzle and belly area. Generally, within minutes dogs develop local irritation and swelling. Also, white vesicles or pustules may form.
“In clinical cases, discomfiture manifested by jumping back, running away, head shaking and rubbing of the paws was noted. ” (Nett, C., personal communication, 2004)
Dog Fire Ant Treatment
At the first signs of problems, it’s helpful to make a poultice of baking soda and water as this will help neutralize the sting, explains Amy D. Shojai in the book “The First Aid Companion for Dogs & Cats.” Simply mix one tablespoon of baking soda with enough water to form a thick paste and apply on the area making sure your dog doesn’t lick it off. If the area is a foot or paw, it may help to place a sock for about 20 minutes to ensure absorption. Antihistamines, such as plain Benadryl can be used for mild cases, but it’s best to consult with a vet on proper dosages.
“Make a thick paste of baking soda and water and apply it to the sting site. If your dog has multiple stings or bites, a soothing oatmeal bath is the way to go.” VCA Animal Hospitals
Signs of Problems
As with other types of bug bites and stings, there are risks for serious allergic reactions that may result in anaphylactic shock. Dogs who develop hives, facial swelling and trouble breathing should see the emergency vet at once.
Timing is of the essence here. According to the Merck Veterinary Manual death due to anaphylaxis may occur within minutes following the sting.
Disclaimer: this article is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog got stung and is exhibiting concerning symptoms, please see your vet for proper treatment.
References:
Skin Diseases of the Dog and Cat: Clinical and Histopathologic Diagnosis, By Thelma Lee Gross, Peter J. Ihrke, Emily J. Walder, Verena K. Affolter, Wiley-Blackwell; 2 edition (September 12, 2005)
The First Aid Companion for Dogs & Cats, By Amy D. Shojai, Rodale Pr (February 2001)
VCA Animals Hospitals, First Aid for Insect Stings in Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 31st, 2o16
At some time or another, you may have noticed how your dog has a small indentation at the the top of his upper lip right under his nose. This vertical groove is also seen in humans, and at a first glance, it may seem to have no particular function; however, in dogs there are chances it has a distinct role that’s worthy of mentioning. So today, let’s hear this small structure’s story.
Introducing Your Dog’s Philtrum
Hello, it’s your dog’s philtrum talking! Yes, this is my actual name, but I am also more formally known as “medial cleft.” I am that little indentation at the top of your dog’s upper lip. I may look a bit insignificant, but rest assured I am there for a reason.
My name derives from the ancient Greek word “philtron” meaning “love potion” possibly because according to the National Human Genome Research Institute back in time, the Greeks thought I was one of the most erogenous parts of the body. This may also be why the Ancient Romans referred to me as “Cupid’s Bow.” Other than the Disneyian image of Lady and the Tramp’s spaghetti-eating kiss, dogs may care less about being romantic though, so let’s get straight to the facts.
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A Sensory Purpose
In humans, other than possibly having an erogenous role, I really don’t seem to carry any other functions. For this reason I am often considered a vestigial structure with no particular role other than perhaps making the application of lipstick difficult in the dark! In mammals though speculation suggests that things may be a tad bit different.
According to the”e-Study Guide Illustrated Anatomy of the Head and Neck“ I am responsible for carrying moisture from the mouth to the rhinarium, your dog’s moist surface area of the nose. Courtesy of capillary action, I therefore may contribute to keeping your dog’s nasal area moist. As you may already know, having a wet nose aids your dog’s sense of smell as tiny water droplets that carry scent are more readily absorbed.
Did you know? According to veterinarian Allen M. Shoen, the nasal philtrum is an important acupuncture point. Known as GV-26, this point is used for treating shock and cardiovascular collapse.
Puppy with cleft palate
A Residual Reminder
In animals and humans, I am a reminder of time spent in the womb. You see, during fetal development at some point the nose and the lips fuse together and I am the result. Correct timing is of the essence here. When the two parts grow and fuse together everything goes well.
Fail to grow and fuse together though, and a puppy or baby is born with a birth defect known as a “cleft palate” that requires corrective surgery.
According to the Veterinary Surgery Small Animal Textbook, in order to correct the issue, the puppy’s philtrum, nasal planum and oronasal barrier need to be reestablished. Left untreated, severe cleft palates may cause difficulty nursing aspiration pneumonia, regurgitation, and malnutrition.
As seen, I am an interesting structure that was worthy of discovering! I hope you have found this article helpful! Yours respectfully,
Your Dog’s Philtrum
References:
National Human Genome Research Institute, Anatomy of the Philtrum, retrieved from the web on May 30th, 2016
e-Study Guide for: Illustrated Anatomy of the Head and Neck: Biology, Human …By Cram101 Textbook Reviews, Cram101; 4 edition (Jan. 1 2014)
DVM360, Veterinary medical acupuncture in critical care medicine (Proceedings), Allen M. Schoen, MS, DVM, retrieved from the web on May 30th, 2016
Veterinary Surgery: Small Animal: 2-Volume Set, 1e1 Har/Psc Edition by Karen M. Tobias DVM MS DACVS (Author), Spencer A. Johnston VMD DACVS (Author), Saunders; 1 Har/Psc edition (December 26, 2011)
Photo Credits:
Wikipedia, Cleft lip in a Boxer by Joel Mills – Own work, Cleft lip in a six week old Boxer puppy. CC BY-SA 3.0
Among the variety of dog breeds that populate the world, you may stumble on dogs who blow their coats naturally, dogs who grow hair that needs clipped routinely and dog breeds that need hand stripping. Why do some dogs need hand stripping? Turns out, it’s a matter of how the coats are crafted in certain dog breeds. You won’t have to necessarily hand strip your dog’s coat if he belongs to any these breeds, but if you want to keep your dog’s traditional breed look and or are planning on showing your dog one day, hand stripping may become a way of life.
Pulling Out of the Roots
Hand stripping is the process of ridding a dog’s coat of dead hairs. This can be accomplished in two ways, either by using a stripping knife, a serrated edged knife which comes in left and right-handed models, or the good old-fashioned way which involves using fingers.
Unlike clipping a dog’s hair using electric clippers which just entails cutting through a layer of hair leaving the root intact, hand stripping involves pulling out every single hair from its root so that there is room for the new coat to grow in.
For the girls reading, the difference is quite similar to shaving legs with a razor versus using an epilator or waxing which involves plucking out hair from the roots.
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Did you know? A dog’s wire hair reaches its maximum life span around 6 months which is when it starts to die off.
For Rough-Coated Dogs
Dogs who have a wiry coat, basically, those “rough-coated” breeds usually need hand stripping. Dogs with wiry coats generally have a top coat that is wiry and a soft and short undercoat. The wiry hairs are typically rough on the end and soft near the base. Once their hairs of the top coat have reached their maximum length, they will start dying, and thus, remain loosely anchored into the hair follicle until they’re manually removed or shed naturally.
One may wonder, what is the advantage of hand stripping dogs versus just clipping the coat? When a dog’s coat is clipped, the wiry hairs lack their rough end and therefore risk becoming soft and of a dull color, whereas the hand stripping procedure grants brightly colored hairs with a nice wiry texture. Hand stripping therefore helps remove dead dull-looking hairs of the dog’s top coat so that the dense, soft undercoat is revealed and room is left so that the new top coat can grow in. The procedure is done twice a year.
“A wire hair has a hard point, but is soft near the base. Clipping removes that hard end, and the soft, faded portion grows farther out. Stripping removes the entire hair from the follicle, allowing for a new, wiry, brightly colored hair to grow.”~Renae Hamrick RVT
How it’s Done
Stripping entails holding a few hairs between the thumb and side of the index finger and pulling straight out using a gentle, yet firm motion. Those who are using a stripping knife will keep the hairs between the thumb and the blade when pulling out. For better traction, some people like to use chalk.
Once the dog’s entire coat is stripped, the dog remains only with its undercoat until the wiry top coat starts growing back. “Rolling the coat” is a similar procedure but it involves routinely going through the whole coat only to remove the longest dying hairs; whereas in stripping the coat all dead hairs are removed so to leave the dog with the undercoat only.
According to Groomarts, it generally takes about 8 to 10 weeks for the new coat to come and cover the undercoat.
Does hand stripping dogs hurt? Many experts in the field claim it does not as the hairs are already weakened and ready to come out, but until dogs can talk we might not know exactly how they feel about it.
There are chances that dogs who are hand stripped from an early age may find the process more tolerable. According to the Irish Wolfhound Club of America, possibly the most bothersome part of all is having to stay still in the same spot for any great length of time, however, certain areas may be more sensitive such as the ear area and the belly.
“Properly performed, handstripping is not painful to the dog and improves skin condition. It clears the hair follicles of sweat and hair secretions and promotes healthier skin.”~Karen L. Campbell
Stripped Dog Breeds
As mentioned, dogs who are hand stripped are often dogs with a wiry coat. Hand stripping can be offered by groomers but it can turn out being a costly service as it’s time consuming and requires a certain level of expertise. Many dog owners opt to hand strip their dogs at home once they master the technique. Done correctly, it shouldn’t be painful, and many dog owners attest their dogs even relax and end up falling asleep!
For those who do not wish to get their dogs hand stripped but still want to maintain a certain level of “texture,” it’s possible to rake out some dead hairs before and after using the clippers.
Following is a list of some dog breeds that are commonly hand stripped.
Affenpinscher
Airedale Terrier
Australian Terrier
Border Terrier
Cairn Terrier
Dachshund wirehaired
Dandie Dinmont
German wirehaired pointer
Irish Terrier
Irish wolfhound
Lakeland Terrier
Miniature Schnauzer
Norfolk Terrier
Parsons Terrier
Spinone Italiano
Scottish Terrier
Schanuzer
Sealyham Terrier
Welsh Terrier
Wire Fox Terrier
Wire-haired pointing griffon
Video of Handstripping a Terrier
References:
The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases, By Karen L. Campbell, Saunders; 1 edition (November 14, 2005)
GroomArts, Hand Stripping Information Sheet, retrieved from the Web on May 29th, 2016
Irish Wolffound Club of America, Stripping your Irish Wolfhound’s Coat, retrieved from the Web on May 29th, 2016
Pet Place, Stripping: Reveal Your Wirehaired Dog’s Show Quality Coat, retrieved from the Web on May 29th, 2016
Photo Credits:
Flickr, Creative Commons, Liz M, Rogue-stripping-face, CCBY2.0
Flickr, Creative Commons, Tony Alter Dachshund Details: Smooth Coat – Long Hair – Wire Hair, CCBY2.0
If your dog’s feet smell like popcorn, Fritos, Cheetos, Doritos or some other type of favorite snack food you’re likely to find in a vending machine, you may have wondered what’s behind that smelly concoction. No, it’s not like your dog has set up a secret corn chip factory around the corner nor is he stealing your snack foods when you’re not looking (even though he would love to). And if you think it’s a matter of the food you are feeding your dog, think again. Turns out, you are not imaging things when you think your dog’s feet smell like popcorn and veterinarians seem to have a reasonable explanation for it.
The Role of Sweat
If you think your dog will break a sweat after jogging in the same way you do, think again. Dogs don’t sweat the same way we do. While we have many sweat glands profusely distributed throughout our bodies, dogs instead sweat very discreetly through isolated sweat glands that are located on their nose and paws pads. Sweaty feet in dogs are most likely seen when dogs are stressed just as we tend to get clammy hands. These sweat glands though, according to Muller and Kirk’s Small Animal Dermatology, have limited function when it comes to cooling dogs down. A dog’s primary method for dissipating heat therefore remains panting, which entails vaporizing water from their respiratory passages.
Did you know? According to Sue Gould, professional dog groomer and author of the book “The Dog Groomer’s Manual,”those sweaty feet in dogs helps improve their grip and traction so that they can make a safe escape.
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Bacteria and Yeast
On top of sweating, dog feet (like the rest of the dog’s skin) are normally populated by several types of bacteria and yeast. The fact that toes are stuck together, touching each other, further results in reduced ventilation and trapped moisture. On top of that, dog feet are in contact with the ground for a lot of time and dogs occasionally tend to lick them which contributes to additional microbes. All of these factors therefore likely contribute to the smell, paving the path for a stronger odor compared to the rest of the dog’s body, explains veterinarian Janet Tobiassen Crosby.
Pointing the Finger
Two types of gram negative bacteria known as “pseudomonas” and “proteus “are strains known for populating a dog’s feet and ears, explains, Rob Hilton a veterinarian with a practice restricted to referrals and consultations in Veterinary Dermatology around Melbourne.
While bacteria may contribute to the odor of dog feet, when it comes though to that typical snack food smell, proteus is the main bacteria to blame, explains Dr. Robert J. Silver, a Colorado-based veterinarian in an article for the Huffington Post.
Signs of Trouble
As mentioned, the dog’s skin is normally inhabited by several types of yeast and bacteria, and fortunately the immune system does a pretty decent job in keeping their numbers under control. Sometimes though things may get out of hand. An overgrowth of yeast and bacteria may cause problematic skin conditions that go beyond that typical popcorn smell. If you ever notice a rancid, pungent or musty odor coming from your dog’s skin, it’s best to seek veterinary attention, suggest Karen Helton Rhodes and Terri Bonenberger, two board-certified veterinary dermatologists.
Reducing Dog Feet Smell
Do your dog’s feet smell and you want to do something about it? After having your dog see your vet to rule out any medical conditions, you can try a few homes remedies to reduce the odor. Here are a few tips.
Monitor your dog’s feet for signs of trouble and report to your vet promptly.
Boosting your dog’s immune system so that his body is better armed to keep the population of yeast and bacteria under control is helpful.
Keep your dog’s feet dry (especially in the warm months) as moisture attracts bacteria and yeast.
Trimming the hair around the dog’s feet helps improve the circulation of air. Hairs may trap sweat and moisture which can be a problem in dogs prone to inflammation in their feet, explains veterinarian Dr. Fiona.
Is that popcorn smell coming from your dogs’s feet making you dizzy? Jodi Ziskin, a Certified Pet Nutrition Consultant for Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice, suggests spraying a dog’s feet daily with squirts of organic, raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar making sure that it reaches between the toes.
References:
Muller and Kirk’s Small Animal Dermatology, By William H. Miller Jr., Craig E. Griffin, Karen L. Campbell, Saunders; 7 edition (December 14, 2012)
Dog Groomer’s Manual: A Definitive Guide to the Science, Practice and Art of Dog Grooming …by Sue Gould, Crowood Press; 1 edition (September 1, 2014)
Frito Feet’ – Why Do Dog Paws Smell Like Corn Chips, Nuts, or Popcorn? by Janet Tobiassen Crosby, retrieved from the web on May 28th, 2016.
Huffington Post, This Is Why Your Dog’s Paws Smell Like Fritos, retrieved from the web on May 28th, 2016
Clinical Review, Bacterial Infections of the Skin, by Rob Hilton, retrieved from the web on May 28th, 2016.
Canine Skin Solutions, Facts and Myths About Yeast Dermatitis in Dogs, retrieved from the web on May 28th, 2016.
Among humans, belly buttons are quite noticeable whether they are “outies” or “innies,” but among dogs things are far more secretive and you might need to go on some sort of treasure hunt in search of them. If you have already tried to look everywhere under all that fur with little success, you may have been tempted to shrug your shoulders and assume dogs just don’t have one. So do dogs have belly buttons or not? Today, our mission is to discover whether it’s worthy to keep looking for one or to throw in the towel and give up.
Discovering Those Buttons
Before going on a treasure hunt in search of our dog’s belly button, it’s worthy discovering a bit more about belly buttons in dogs. We affectionately call it belly button, but to be precise the technical term is navel or if we want to be more clinically correct, the ideal term is “umbilicus.” For this article though, we’ll stick to belly button because we think it’s cuter.
What’s really a belly button though and how is it formed? It might not look like it, but a belly button is simply scar tissue that has formed at the site where the umbilical cord was once attached. Therefore, we can say that the belly button is simply a “memory” reminiscent of the good old days when we were still in our mother’s belly and our umbilical cords were attached to our mom’s placenta so that we could be supplied with oxygen-rich blood.
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A Trait of Placental Mammals
Not all animals have belly buttons though. In order for an animal to have a belly button, it must have a history of having an umbilical cord attached to a placenta. So animals like birds who hatch eggs or marsupials who incubate their little ones in their pouch, don’t fit the description.
Therefore, the only animals that can have belly buttons are animals that fall under the category of “placental mammals.”
According to the University of California Museum of Paleontology, these are mammals that prior to birth, are nourished through a placenta. Examples of placental animals include humans, cats, dogs and several non-egg laying farm animals such as goats, cows and sheep.
For ease of explanation, we can therefore state that when there’s an umbilical cord, there’s likely a belly button hiding somewhere.
Going on a Treasure Hunt
Just because your dog’s belly button isn’t readily visible, doesn’t mean it’s not there! For sure, you’ll have an easier time finding it in puppies, shortly after the umbilical cord shrivels and detaches. Afterward, as the puppies develop, their small belly buttons start becoming more and more difficult as their permanent adult coats come in.
Fact is, those belly buttons aren’t as relevant as ours. Unlike our belly buttons that are readily noticed, theirs are barely visible often resembling a small barely visible white line or scar. For some dogs, the only indication of its presence is that small tuft of hair you find right below the end of your dog’s rib-cage.
Pushing the Wrong Button
“Outies” are quite common among humans, but in the dog world if you notice something sticking out from the dog’s abdomen, you’re likely looking at an umbilical hernia, explain Caroline Coile and Margaret H. Bonham in the book “Why do Dogs Like Balls.” An umbilical hernia is simply a protrusion found around the dog’s umbilical area caused by some fat or a portion of abdominal lining or abdominal organ. Generally, the soft bulge doesn’t cause any particular complications other than looking unsightly, but they can sometimes warrant an emergency trip to the vet when a loop of the intestines become trapped, explains veterinarian Debra Primovic.
References:
Pet Place, Umbilical Hernia in Dogs, Dr. Debra Primovic, retrieved from the web on May 27th, 2016
University of California Museum of Paleontology, Eutheria, the Placental Mammals, retrieved from the web on May 27th, 2016
Why Do Dogs Like Balls?: More Than 200 Canine Quirks, Curiosities, and Conundrums Revealed, D. Caroline Coile PhD (Author), Margaret H. Bonham, Sterling (September 2, 2008)
You may have at some point or another stumbled on some comic strip or a funny cartoon scene depicting a dog on guard duty sleeping with one of his eyes open, but can dogs really sleep with their eyes open? Eyes are often associated with a state of vigilance and therefore we say things like “I’ll keep an eye open” to ensure we don’t miss something, and then, on the other hand, we say “close your eyes and imagine” to depict a transition from awareness to an imaginary world. It’s not surprising therefore if we imagine an animal that’s known for being alert as the dog as having the superior ability to “sleep with its eyes” open. Many owners attest that their dogs can really sleep with their eyes open or semi-open, but can they really sleep this way?
A Matter of Protection
Eyes play a very important role in our lives and the lives of our dogs. When it comes to dogs, good vision in their evolutionary past meant the difference between getting to eat a meal or starvation or becoming some other animal’s lunch or surviving. Mother Nature has therefore made sure that the eyes of our dogs were protected (and continue to be protected) from harm arming them of eye lashes, blinking reflexes and other protective measures means to protect this dog’s important asset known as vision.
Before we drift into deep sleep, we close our eyelids (which are meant to protect our eyes) as sleeping with the eyes open could mean exposing them to the elements, causing dryness and potential damage to the cornea (which can progress to a condition known as exposure keratitis) but what what about dogs? Sleeping with their eyes open would be quite counterproductive!
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Exceptions to The Rule
Dogs do not normally sleep with their eyes open. An exception though would be when dogs are undergoing veterinary procedures requiring sedation or anesthesia. During these procedures, the dog’s eyes may stay open as the dog’s blink reflex and tear production decreases. According to Dr. Foster and Smith this is remedied by applying a special artificial tear ointment during these veterinary procedures. But what about dog owners attesting that their dogs do sleep with their eyes open? At a first glance it may appear that way, but at a closer look, we may see that things are a tad bit different than thought.
Did you know? Lagophthalmos, is the medical term used to depict the incomplete closure of eyelids during sleep. According to Advanced Animal Eye Care this condition is commonly seen in short-faced dog breeds like Shih Tzus, Lhasa Apsos, Pekingese, and Pugs.
Dog with third eyelid showing
Introducing the Third Eyelid
When our dogs look as if they are sleeping with their eyes open, in reality we are looking at a dog’s third eyelid, also known as the nictitating membrane. Indeed, if we look carefully, we’ll notice a light pink or reddish looking tissue rather than the dog’s regular eye color.
The third eyelid is a protective film of tissue that naturally draws across the dog’s eye when the dog is sleeping. The nictitating membrane therefore helps keep the eyeball moist. According to the American College of Veterinary Opthamologists, the gland of the third eyelid gland is indeed responsible for the production of 40 to 50 percent of the dog’s tears. On top of keeping the eye lubricated, the third eyelid, just like an effective windshield wiper, sweeps off any debris preventing it from attaching to the dog’s eyeball as he’s sleeping. This is ultimately something quite valuable considering that dogs lack our manual dexterity to rub their eyes to remove any foreign items, points out Dr. Eric Barchas.
A Passive Movement
The dog’s third eyelid is quite different from other structures as there are no muscles attached to its membrane. Its movement is therefore entirely passive.
Basically, once the eyeball retracts into the orbit, it elicits the third eyelid to passively slide across the eye’s surface, explains veterinary opthamologist Dr. Christine C. Lim, in the book “Small Animal Ophthalmic Atlas and Guide.”
The third eyelid should return into normal position once dog awakens.
Eyes Wide Open
When a dog awakens from sleep, the third eyelid should retract and go back to its normal “awake state” position, which is tucked out of sight in the dog’s inner corner of the eye. Now that the dog’s eyes are open, blinking will take over in keeping the dog’s eyes moist and removing debris.
In some cases though, the third eyelid may not retract as it should. This can be due to an eye injury, ocular pain illness or possibly, a damaged nerve, explains veterinarian Betsy Brevitz in the book: “Hound Health Handbook: The Definitive Guide to Keeping Your Dog Happy.” If your dog’s third eyelid therefore is showing when he’s wide awake, it’s best to have the dog evaluated by a vet.
Did you know? In humans, the third eyelid has shrunk to a rudimentary bump that is found in the inner corner of the eye, explains veterinarianPaul Miller of the University of Wisconsin-Madison.
References:
Pet Education, Doctors Foster and Smith, Artificial Tears, retrieved from the web on May 26th, 2016
American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists, Prolapsed Gland of the Third Eyelid, retrieved from the web on May 26th, 2016
Small Animal Ophthalmic Atlas and Guide1st Edition, by Christine C. Lim, Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (April 20, 2015)
Hound Health Handbook: The Definitive Guide to Keeping Your Dog Happy …By Betsy Brevitz, Workman Publishing Company; 1 edition (April 16, 2009)
Scientific American, Why do cats have an inner eyelid as well as outer ones? retrieved from the web on May 26th, 2016
Advanced Animal Eye Care, Lagophthalmos (Incomplete Eyelid Closure), retrieved from the web on May 26th, 2016
A Skin Condition
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