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I am Your Dog’s Eardrum

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Just like us, dogs have an eardrum that plays a big role in a dog’s sense of hearing. A dog’s eardrum is not readily visible since it’s set deep into the dog’s ear canal, but when this structure incurs into problems, we can sometimes recognize that something is amiss. Sometimes, the things we do with our dogs may play a role in problems with a dog’s eardrum, so it’s very important to keep this structure in mind. So today, let’s discover more about a dog’s ear drum and let’s listen to this important membrane’s story.

ear drum non perforated
Intact eardrum

Introducing Your Dog’s Eardrum

Hello, it’s your dog’s eardrum talking! If you prefer, you can call me “tympanic membrane.” This makes me sound more important, no?

As mentioned, you might not be very familiar with me as I live in the shadow, tucked deeply within your dog’s ear canal. I am simply a thin membrane that’s  stretched tight, just like a drum.

I basically separate your dogs’s external ear canal from his middle and inner ear. I play some important functions, and yes, sometimes I even get damaged, which is why you may sometimes see your veterinarian checking on me with his otoscope.

 

I am Protective

dog sense of hearing

Since I am placed in a strategic spot between the external ear canal and the middle and inner ear, I play a protective role, keeping bacteria and fungi from entering the middle ear and potentially causing a middle ear infection. Middle ear infections (otitis media) are a far cry from the average outer ear infections (otitis externa.) According to veterinarian Ernest Ward,  a middle ear infection is a serious condition that requires aggressive treatment. Sometimes middle ear infections may even progress into inner ear infections (otitis interna) which may cause deafness and loss of balance. So, yes, you must thank me if your dog is often spared from these maladies–when all goes well.

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dog ear anatomyI Detect Sounds

I play a big role in your dog’s sense of hearing. When puppies are born, I am actually sealed closed so I am unable to carry sound as of yet. The ability to detect sounds starts when the puppy is about three weeks old, so from that day on I am on my way to my auditory mission. You see, I tend to vibrate when sound waves hit me. My vibrations move the small bones, known as the malleus, incus, and stapes, found in your dog’s middle ear, which then send the vibrations to your dog’s inner ear. From here, the auditory message finally reaches the dog’s brain. The reactions to these auditory messages may range from “Woohooo, my owner is grabbing my leash! to “Eeeek, fireworks! I  am so scared, I better seek shelter under the bed and stay safe!”

perforated eardrum
Ruptured eardrum

When Things Go Wrong

Remember how I said that I was a thin membrane? Well, this is my weak point. Even though I am tucked deep inside your dog’s ear canal, I am vulnerable and prone to rupturing. How can this happen? Well in several ways. Very loud noises can sometimes cause me to rupture if close enough, so this is another good reason to keep your dog away from fireworks, gun shots or air horns. I can also rupture when there are severe changes in atmospheric pressure, or more commonly, when your dog has a middle ear infection. Sometimes toxins and ear infection may be culprits. I can also perforate when instruments are inserted in the dog’s ear too deeply or if a foxtail manages to work itself through me. Fortunately, your dog will likely let you know if I am ruptured. Here are a few symptoms of a ruptured eardrum in dogs:

  • Pain. Your dog may whimper or yelp when his ear is touched or he may shake his head or paw or scratch at it. He may tilt his head or rub his ear. When the pain is intense, some dogs may become reluctant to open their jaws and this may mean that they may become reluctant to eat, especially crunchy foods like kibble.
  • Ear Discharge. If your dog develops an middle ear infection, fluid may accumulate and since it has no where to escape, it can put pressure on me causing me to rupture or tear. When this happens, a pus-like discharge, sometimes tinged with blood, may seep out into the dog’s external canal, becoming visible. Usually, when I burst, the dogs feels a bit relief from the pain as there’s no more pressure.
  • Loss of Hearing. Since I transmit sounds to the dog’s inner ear, when I rupture I can affect your dog’s ability to hear. However, you might hardly notice this, because dogs are good in compensating hearing loss by using their other ear.
  • Neurological Problems. When I rupture because of a middle ear infection, affected dogs may develop neurological symptoms. You see, the middle ear hosts several facial and sympathetic nerves, so when bad things happen there, paralysis of the facial nerves may occur causing the dog’s face and mouth on the same side to appear droopy, the appearance of the dog’s third eyelid  and the inability to blink. When the inner ear is affected too, affected dogs may start showing balance-related symptoms such as staggering, walking in circles,  nystagmus, involuntary eye movements, and lack of coordination.

When I am ruptured, it’s very important that dog owners do not try to self-treat at home as using ear medications can cause future damage to me. There are very few products that are safe (and not ototoxic) to use in a ruptured eardrum. This is why, vets thoroughly check me out before prescribing ear drops. If you suspect I have ruptured, see your vet as he can only assess whether I am still intact or not, courtesy of the handy otoscope and other helpful tests. The good news is that, if I am truly ruptured, I have the ability to repair myself. Indeed, according to veterinarian Ernest Ward, I may heal within 3 to 5 weeks and if there is a middle ear infection, medications may be needed for 4 to 6 weeks.

As seen, I am quite an important membrane that plays a big role in keeping your dog’s ears healthy and your dog responsive to surrounding sounds. So make sure to keep me in good shape. Don’t expose your dog to loud noises, don’t stick things in your dog’s ears and avoid using ear drops without seeing your vet first. Your dog and me will thank you!

Yours truly,

Your Dog’s Eardrum. Dog Pawprint

 

References:

  • VCA Animal Hospitals, Tympanic Membrane Rupture and Middle Ear Infection in Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 4th, 2016
  • Merck Veterinary Manual, Otitis median and interna, retrieved from the web on July 4th, 2016
  • Pet Education, Ear Anatomy and Hearing, retrieved from the web on July 4th, 2016

Photo Credits:

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Do You Always Have to Use a Clicker in Dog Training?

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Many people are hesitant to try clicker training for the simple fact that they don’t feel like bringing a clicker along with them when they’re out and about with their dogs. Yet, many people are not aware of the fact that there is no need to always have to use the clicker for the simple fact that the use of the clicker can actually be discontinued at some point! Actually, the correct wording would be “the clicker “must be discontinued at some point” if we want to adhere to good training practices. So for those folks addicted to using a clicker who are using it all the time for the same exact exercises over and over, that clicker must go “bye-bye” at some point. To discontinue the use of the clicker, there’s an exact procedure to follow to so to successfully discontinue its use, but the good news is that the process is fairly easy.

clicker typesWhat Clickers Do

Clickers are noise-making tools that produce a distinctive clicking noise when the trainer presses on it. Nowadays, there are several makes and models of clickers on the market, but they all share the fact that they produce a distinct clicking sound. This clicking sound tells the dog something along the lines of “Bingo! You got it right, here comes a treat.” The clicking noise therefore happens right the moment the dog performs the desired behavior. Because the clicker bridges the gap between the behavior and the reward, all clicks must always be immediately followed by a treat. For sake of comparison, the effect of the clicking noise might feel to a dog similar to the  “ding, ding, ding” noise people hear in game shows when they give the correct answer and win a prize.

While the clicker works very well when we are training a new behavior as it pinpoints that exact moment in time when the behavior occurs, if we keep using the clicker once a dog is fluent in performing a behavior, its use is pretty much redundant as there’s nothing really new happening and this may turn a training session dull. The exception to the rule is when we’re adding a new challenge to a behavior our dog knows well. In this case, we can re-introduce the clicker. For example, if we’ve trained our dog to reliably sit, and therefore, stopped using the clicker, one day we may want to raise criteria and pinpoint faster sits versus the slower ones.  In this case, we would go back to using the clicker to mark/reward only the fast sits.

“At ClickerExpo, during lecture sessions, I sometimes see attendees repeatedly clicking and treating dogs just for lying down and being quiet, when the dog is already lying down and being quiet anyway. Using the click in this way, just to maintain behavior that’s already been learned, may actually devalue the click.” Karen Pryor

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A Matter of Fluencydog trick

After a behavior is learned and becomes reliable, the use of the clicker should be discontinued. When is a dog’s behavior considered reliable? According to Paul Owens author of the book “The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training.”If your dog responds 80 percent of the time on any one behavior, you should consider it reliable behavior. If your dog gives you the behavior you are asking 90 percent of the time in different environments, that is considered very reliable”

This means we can still use the clicker when we morph our hand signal into the final one or when we introduce the verbal cue “sit “and we can still use it when we’re introducing distractions (such as training in different places) just to confirm to the dog that he’s still doing great despite these new added challenges, but afterward, it should become our goal to get the clicker out of the picture.

“Once the behavior is on cue, and dog will offer it willingly, fade the clicker”~ Melissa Alexander

 

dog trickWhat Can I use to Replace the Click? 

Various trainers use different methods and there doesn’t seem to be a standard operating procedure. Melissa Alexander suggests replacing the click with a verbal marker. She claims “A verbal marker isn’t as precise as a clicker, but at this stage, the dog knows what’s being reinforced. Consider the verbal marker a praise marker, letting the dog know that he did something reinforceable”

It’s not a bad idea therefore to train a dog using a clicker for cutting-edge precision and using a marker  such as ‘yes” for those times you don’t have access to the clicker or simply don’t need that precision the clicker can only give. This way, when that time comes and you need to discontinue the clicker, you can easily replace it with the already familiar verbal marker. Now that you have a verbal marker and no longer a clicker, you are also free to move on to a variable schedule where you give treats randomly instead of every single time.

James O’ Heare instead in the book “The Science and Technology of Dog Training p. 149” suggests to use a release cue to replace the clicker. For example, in an exercise that uses duration such as a sit, we would replace the click with a release word such as “Okay.” If the dog breaks the sit, then the owners should promptly reinforce it. However if the dog is hesitant to break the sit upon hearing the release cue “okay,” owners can immediately (after saying “okay”) prompt the dog to be released from the sitting position by perhaps waving their arms or enticing the dog to follow them. When the dog breaks the sitting position, he can then be rewarded.

” Once the learner knows what to do and when to do it, for many behaviors you don’t need to click any more; a nod or a smile or a word can tell a dog he’s doing fine.” Karen Pryor

The Bottom Line

As seen, the clicker is a temporary tool used for pinpointing desired behaviors. Once the dog knows what’s being asked to and performs the behavior reliably, the clicker should be discontinued. Different trainers may use different methods as to when and how to start discontinuing its use. During the process, the dog should be introduced to a permanent word or perhaps a nod or a smile, that can used to replace the clicking sound. This is also a good time to move from a continuous reinforcement schedule to a variable one. Oh, and by the way, for those who call the process of discontinuing the clicker “fading the click” this term is technically incorrect. Fading means making something gradually smaller and smaller as we do when fading prompts. With the clicker, you either click or not,  so it’s not a suitable term for a marker signal, explains Karen Pryor.

idea tipDid you know? According to a study, dogs who were trained using a clicker to perform a specific target behavior took an average time of 36 minutes to perform the task, whereas dogs who very verbally conditioned dogs took an average of 59 minutes.

 

References:

  • The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training, By Paul Owens, Norma Eckroate, Adams Media; 2 edition (February 12, 2007)
  • The Science and Technology of Dog Training, by James O’ Heare,  Dogwise Publishing
    Edition:     2014
  • Clicker Solutions by Melissa Alexander, Frequently Asked Questions, retrieved from the web on July 3rd, 2016
  • “Clicker Bridging Stimulus Efficacy.” Linday Wood. 2007. Master’s thesis, Hunter College, New York.
  • Karen Pryor Clicker Training, Fading the Click? retrieved from the web on July 3rd, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • Clicker-training clickers come in various shapes and forms.Taken by Elf | Talk Sept 17 ’04 – Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons. Transfer was stated to be made by User:Syp. CC BY-SA 3.0

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Be Careful, Fireworks Are Toxic to Dogs

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By A. Farris

When we think about fireworks, we often think about how the booming noises they produce affect our dogs letting them startle or even develop sheer panic, however, not much thought is given when the festivity is over and things seem to get quieter. After a day of being kept safely in the home away from all the noises and commotion, many dogs are eager to go outside and return to their  sniffing and urine marking routine. However, not all risks are over. Many dogs may find spent fireworks attractive and may decide to chew on them or even ingest them which can cause problems.

My Dog Ate Fireworks!firwork

Many dog owners become concerned about their dogs eating fireworks, are they right to be concerned? The answer is yes. According to the Pet Poison Helpline, fireworks can be dangerous to our canine companions in many ways.

Other than the loud noises produced and risks of direct exposure to fireworks which can cause serious burns, unlit and spent fireworks contain harmful chemicals such as potassium nitrate, sulfur, carbon, cadmium, barium and coloring agents that may contain heavy metals such as mercury, antimony, copper strontium and phosphorus.

Worrisome Symptoms 

When a dog ingests fireworks, their nitrate contents can cause blood changes and anemia when ingested in a reasonably high quantity, explains a veterinarian Dr. Jen. On top of that, gunpowder can irritate the stomach and intestinal tract, causing vomiting and diarrhea as a minimum.

Other symptoms according to the Pet Poison Helpline, may include weakness, tremors, seizures, trouble breathing, acute kidney failure, bone marrow changes and yellowing of the skin (jaundice).

dog fireworkWhat Should Dog Owners Do?

If you suspect your dog has ingested fireworks, call your vet immediately. If your dog ingested them within the last couple of hours, there are chances that, based on the type ingested, your vet or the pet poison helpline can provide over-the-phone instructions on how to induce vomiting using 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (all dog owners should keep this always handy for such instances). If more than a couple of hours have passed though, dogs may need to get supportive care, fluids and medications from the vet.

For very mild cases with minimal ingestion that are affecting only the digestive tract, there are chances your vet can suggest home treatment. The vet may recommend a bland diet consisting of a large meal of mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, or pumpkin, explains Dr. Pollen, a retired holistic veterinarian. These foods are easy to digest and help move the ingested toxin through the dog’s system. However, in significant cases, home treatment is inadequate and your dog may need to be hospitalized and treated with IV fluids and medications, further warns Dr. Pollen. Depending on the type of firework ingested, as in the case of those with heavy metals, dogs may require a specific antidote, warn Pet Place Veterinarians. While many dogs recover with supportive care, the prognosis can be critical for dogs that swallow a large amount or have delayed treatment.

“If your pet ate only the residue of firecrackers lying about after festivities, it is exposed to heavy metals that lace the packaging materials, wicks, and ash residue. This amount may be toxic but may not be fatal. If your pet ate enough fireworks to light up Disneyland, the picture, although bright, will not be pretty.” ~Dr. Pollen

As seen, fireworks can be a hazard whether before or after being lit up. For those lightening them up, it would be great if they would be considerate and dispose of their firework remnants with safety in mind. Since we don’t live in a perfect world though, dog owners must keep their dogs on leash and monitor their activities to keep their companions safe from exposure to any toxic residues.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If you suspect your dog ate fireworks, please see your vet for treatment or consult with the pet poison helpline at 855-764-7661 (a $49 charge per incident applies)

References:

  •  Pet Poison Helpline: Fireworks, retrieved from the web on July 2, 2016
  • Dr. Pollen, Gun Powder and Dogs, Firecrackers and Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 2, 2016
  • Pet Place, Dangers of Fireworks to Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 2nd, 2016

How Do Dogs Move? A Look at Canine Gaits

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We are used to seeing our dogs romping around, but we often fail to pay close attention to canine gaits. The way a dog moves is of great importance when it comes to the show ring as moving flawlessly at a certain gait is required in certain breed standards. From a health standpoint, getting familiar with a dog’s normal gait is also helpful so dog owners can recognize any early signs of fatigue or possible lameness so they can report their findings to their vet. Last but not least, learning more about canine gaits is simply fascinating so to better get acquainted with our canine companions. So let’s take a stroll into the world of canine gaits.

 What exactly are canine gaits? A gait is a pattern of foot steps that take place at various speeds. Canine gaits can be
symmetrical or asymmetrical. What does this mean? In a symmetrical gait, the leg movements on one side are repeated on the opposite side. In an asymmetrical gait, instead the leg movements on one side are not repeated on the other side. Gaits are often referred to as 2-beat gaits, 3-beat gaits, 4-beat gaits. The beats, as in music, give an idea of the rhythm of the gait, they’re used to depict the times the feet touch the floor within a cycle. Dogs can show  six different gaits, the familiar walk, trot and gallop, and the less less familiar amble, pace and canter.

dog walking gait

The Walk

The walk is a symmetrical gait, in four beats, meaning that each foot touches the ground in a sequence, one at a time. In this gait, three legs are  generally always on the ground, while one is lifted. Sometimes, very briefly, you can see though two legs on the ground when the legs being lifted and lowered slightly overlap. The pattern is left rear, left front, right rear, right front. Among all canine gaits, the walk is the slowest and less tiring.

If we take a close look at a walking dog, we will notice how the head and neck lower when the front leg is lifted and rise when the leg is put down. By paying attention to this head movement, we can notice when it’s more pronounced, which may be indicative of discomfort or pain.

When dogs are pulling a load, the walking changes slightly. The steps tend to become shorter and the head will be lowered more so that the dog’s center of gravity is shifted forward allowing the rear legs to help in propulsion.

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“The walk is the only dog gait in which three feet can be on the ground at the same time. If you see three of your dog’s feet on the ground, you know your dog is walking.” ~Christine Zink DVM

The Trottrotting dog gait

The trot is a symmetrical two-beat gait, meaning that two feet touch the ground at the same time. The pattern is is diagonal with the right front leg and left hind leg moving together and then the left front leg and right hind leg moving together. In this gait, two feet remain always on the ground except for a brief moment of suspension. This is an intermediate gait that is used when the dog needs to walk faster but without running. It’s an efficient gait used by dogs to cover long distances. The trot is also the most common gait seen in the show ring because it’s slow enough to be evaluated by judges. When judges ask handlers to move their dog in a trot, they’ll say “gait your dog, please.” This is also the ideal gait that can help owners and vets notice any lameness.

Did you know? When a dog is trotting, in an ideal situation the rear leg moving forward should step right into the spot where the front leg on the same side left the ground just seconds prior.

dog gallop gaitThe Gallop

This is the fastest gait of all, but also the most tiring. It’s the typical gait dog owners refer to when their dogs are running fast.

This gait is asymmetrical and has four beats with a suspension (all the dog’s four legs are lifted off the ground.) The gallop is faster than the canter.

The gallop is sort of the opposite of the walk. In the walk there are always two or three legs on the ground, while in the gallop there are always two or three legs in the air, except during the suspension when all legs are lifted off the ground. In the gallop there are two possible leads, the left lead and the right lead. The lead refers to the order of leg placement, that is, which leg is the last to touch the ground before the suspension.

The Amble

This is a relaxed, often transitory gait that may be seen when a dog is speeding up in walking and about to break in a trot. This gait is symmetrical and similar to the pace, but just a tad bit slower. This gait is faster than the walk, but it’s slower than the canter and gallop, but, it’s rarely seen in dogs other than during the transition between one gait and another.  This gait is more often seen in camels, elephants and horses. In this gait, just like the pace, two legs on the same side are lifted while the two other legs remain always on the ground, however if one looks carefully, it can be noticed that unlike the pace, the rear leg of the pair gets off the ground just a split second sooner than the front foot, and that the rear leg is also touches the ground a little earlier.

“Amble: A relaxed, easy gait, in which the legs on either side move almost, but not quite, as a pair. Often seen as the transition movement between the walk and other gaits.” ~American Kennel Club.

The Pace 

Some dogs will pace instead of trotting. Unlike the diagonal trot, the pace is lateral and it’s somewhat similar to the amble. This is not just a transitional gait like the amble, but rather something the dog will sometimes for prolonged times. The pattern is left front and left hind, right front and right hind. This gait gives the dog a rocking motion. This pace is temporarily seen in puppies when they are developing or fatigued dogs or in overweight dogs trying to conserve energy. In the show ring this gait is often considered a fault because it’s not energy efficient, however, it’s not penalized in these three dog breeds: old English sheepdog, Polish lowland sheepdog and Neapolitan mastiff. The pattern of this gait consists of two right feet on the ground and two left feet in the air, afterward, two left feet are on the ground and two right feet in the air. According to veterinarian Christine Zink, dogs who routinely pace may do so because they have a history of being walked by their owners at speeds that are in between the ideal walk and trot speeds or in dogs with some physical problem which makes trotting uncomfortable.

“Dogs that pace tend to have a slightly elevated center of gravity….They also tend to have a short back, relative to leg-length…As a result of this conformation, they may have learned to modify their trot into a pace to avoid interference between feet on the same side.”~Bonnie V. Beaver

The Canter

For horse people, this is a familiar gait. The canter is an asymmetrical gait in three beats. The dog is propelled forward courtesy of the propulsion of the rear legs while the front ones work on steering and stabilizing. This smooth gait is slower than the trot and gallop and helps the dog conserve energy. The canter can be transverse (as seen in horses) or rotary (preferred by dogs).  The pattern consists of rear foot, opposite rear foot and its front diagonal, and afterward, the other front foot followed by a possible suspension (moment where all four feet are off the ground. In the canter (as in the gallop) there are two possible leads, the left lead and the right lead. The lead refers to the order of leg placement, that is, which leg is the last to touch the ground before the suspension.

 Some Unique Gaits in Dogs

double suspension gallop
Double-suspension gallop.

Let’s face it: dogs win first prize when it comes to genetic variability in the whole animal kingdom. From the colossal Irish wolfound to the tiniest Chihuahua, it shouldn’t be surprising if all these genetic variances wouldn’t cause a variety of gaits because of dogs’ different sizes and structures. Here are a couple of  unique gaits.

  • The hackney gait as seen in the miniature pinscher.
  • The double-suspension gallop as seen in the greyhound and whippet. This gait is asymmetrical and like the gallop consists of four phases. Unlike the gallop though, there are two suspension periods. While this is the fastest gait, it doesn’t offer endurance, which is why greyhound races last very little.

     

    References:

    Canine Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation, edited by M. Christine Zink, Janet B. Van Dyke, Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (April 22, 2013)

    Dog Channel, How Dogs Move, retrieved from the web on July 1st, 2016

    Canine Behavior: Insights and Answers, By Bonnie V. Beaver, Saunders; 2 edition (January 5, 2009)

    Wikipedia, Canine Gait, retrieved from the web on July 1st, 2016

    Peak Performance EBook: Coaching the Canine Athlete,By Canine Sports Productions, Canine Sports Productions; 1st edition (November 15, 1997)

     

     Photo Credits:
  • AngMoKio Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported
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How Does Rain Affect Dogs?

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“It’s raining cats and dogs”goes the old saying, but when it comes to rain and getting wet, dogs seem to react in different ways. Whether it’s a steady rainfall or a downpour as seen in summer storms, some dog owners seem to notice some changes in their dogs’ behaviors when it’s pouring. Is it just our imagination or is there something really going on that we might not be aware of? Well, in some cases, dogs will tell us straightforwardly that, yes, they hate rain and the associated sensation of getting wet, while on other occasions, their reaction to rain may seem more subtle, making us wonder if rain affects dogs in different ways than us. Following are some possible explanations to a dog’s reaction to rain.

Dogs Who Sniff More When it Rainsdog sniff in the rain

Yes, you are not imagining things if your dog seems more sensitive to smells when it rains. You have likely witnessed this phenomenon of how moisture intensifies smells first hand when your dog got skunked and that skunk smell came back to haunt you when your dog got his coat wet, or, even without getting skunked, you may have noticed how bad that “doggy smell” gets when your dog’s fur is wet. Turns out, there is an explanation for this and, for those nerds out there, it has a scientific basis. Basically, what happens is that, humid air traps smells causing them to linger around much longer than they normally do, explains Avert Gilbert, a “smell” psychologist.

What does it mean to our dogs?  It means that they are offered a “smorgasbord” of smells that are more intense than usual, increasing their desire to go on a sniffing (and possibly, marking) adventure. Even indoor dogs may catch outside whiffs of smell when it rains. There are several reports of dog owners noticing how during or after raining, their dogs will catch a whiff under the door or the air coming from the vents and start whining as they possibly detect the nearby presence of other dogs, cats or wild animals.

“The optimal time to work search dogs is when it’s damp, foggy, drizzling and even raining. Scent needs moisture to survive, which rain provides. Rain does not make scent mysteriously disappear. Rain will not destroy scent, but a heavy downpour on concrete can disperse it, making it difficult to follow a trail.” ~Kat Albrecht, Detective Dogs

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Dogs Who Refuse to Go Out in the Raindog rains

Yes, many dogs have this negative reaction to rain. You can see it on your dog’s face when you let him out to potty and it’s pouring cats and dogs. If your dog hates to potty in the rain, rest assured you’re not alone. Many dogs dislike rain and its associated sensation of getting wet. This “hate” may stem from lack of a proper introduction to rain and getting baths, which should start when puppies are young, ideally during the critical window of socialization. It’s a good idea to therefore start early and turn rain into a fun event by playing under the rain, engaging the pup in fun water games and making baths fun.

Hating rain though doesn’t necessarily stem from lack of exposure, it can also stem from a negative association with it. If you have ever scolded your dog when it was raining because he wouldn’t go potty or for some other reason, there are good chances that he has associated the rain with your scolding rather than “not going potty in the rain.” Also, dogs are often influenced by our mood and reactions to stimuli. So if for instance, you make a big deal about rain such as making a big deal of it, rushing inside when it rains, avoiding puddles on walks etc. there are chances that your dog may pick up these negative emotions and belief that rain and getting wet is something that should be absolutely avoided.  For dogs who hate going in potty in the rain, here are a few tips: tips for dogs who refuse to potty in the rain. 

scared dog fight or flightDogs Who Shiver When they Hear Rain

Some dogs may not hate much the rain or getting wet per se, but they are actually afraid of its noise. For instance, sometimes when it’s heavily pouring, the noise can be scary especially for those folks who live under a metal roof. There are dogs who are scared of the noise produced by hail and then their fear expands to include also loud pouring of big rain drops.

Owners who create a lot of commotion when it rains may also contribute to the problem. Rushing to close a window or to grab clothes that were hanging out while screaming “Oh, no it’s going to get all soaking wet!” can be enough to traumatize a sensitive dogs and make him associate all that commotion with the scent and noise of rain. The fear of thunder in dogs may also generalize to other events associated with the noise of thunder and sometimes this may include darkening skies, the noise of rain and strong winds and even those subtle changes in barometric pressure.

dog loveDogs Who Mate More When It Rains 

OK, this won’t likely affect spayed and neutered dogs much that spend most of their time indoors, but we thought this curious fact was worth mentioning. Interestingly, in India, rain seems to bring more love in the air when it comes to free-ranging dogs. It has been observed that raining causes an increase in the rate of mating in free-ranging dogs in urban environments. Why is that? According to a study, it’s likely a matter of chemistry. Living in an urban environment, dogs are exposed to a lot of “olfactory noise,” and  this seems to interfere with the dog’s ability to discriminate pheromones of female dogs in heat. When it rains though, the increased humidity levels and reduced temperature of the air, intensifis those pheromone signals leading to more frequent matings.

 

References:

  • Changes of pressure and humidity affect olfactory function, Kuehn M1, Welsch H, Zahnert T, Hummel T.,Eur Arch Otorhinolaryngol. 2008 Mar;265(3):299-302. Epub 2007 Sep 25
  • When Love Is in the Air: Understanding Why Dogs Tend to Mate when It Rains.Sen Majumder S1, Bhadra A, PLoS One. 2015 Dec 2;10(12):e0143501. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0143501. eCollection 2015.
  • PBS Newshour, 8 things you didn’t know about humidity, retrieved from the web on June 30th, 2016
  • Dog Detectives, How to Train Your Dog to Find Lost Pets, By Kat Albrecht (Dogwise Training Manual) Paperback – November 1, 2007

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Dog Word of the Day: Intrinsic Reinforcer

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The term “reinforcement” in behavior terms is used to depict the instance where the likelihood of a behavior increases. A reinforcer is therefore anything which, added after a behavior, makes the behavior put roots and stay alive, preventing it from extinction. In dog training, we want to see desired behaviors put roots and establish and that’s why we use positive reinforcement. That cookie given the moment the dog sits, makes the dog more willing to sit in future instances. However, we must consider that reinforcement is also at play when dogs repeat certain behaviors that are undesirable to us. In these cases, it’s helpful to investigate and determine what reinforcer (extrinsic, intrinsic) is maintaining the behavior so we can prevent access to the reinforcer if feasible and provide alternate, more acceptable outlets for those behaviors. Today we will be taking a closer look at intrinsic reinforcers.

“Behavior which is reinforced tends to be repeated (i.e. strengthened); behavior which is not reinforced tends to die out-or be extinguished.”

— B.F. Skinner

dog tricksDefining Intrinsic Reinforcers

If we look at the history of the word “intrinsic,” we will find that it derives from the ancient Medieval Latin word “intrinsecus “which means inwardly, on the inside. ” The Latin word “intra” indeed means”within.”  The word reinforcer comes from the 1650’s and means “to make stronger.” So if you put the two words together and apply it to dog behavior, you will get something along the lines of “something from within that makes the behavior stronger.”

Intrinsic reinforcement is the opposite of extrinsic reinforcement, which entails reinforcement produced indirectly by the behavior itself and therefore comes from an external source. In dog training or behavior modification, the addition of extrinsic reinforcement is artificially arranged in training settings for the purpose of deliberately increasing desired behaviors (contrived reinforcers). For example, back to the dog sitting for a cookie example, sitting is normally not intrinsically reinforcing for the dog (unless the dog is tired on his legs) but by adding an external reinforcer (the cookie) when the dog sits, the behavior becomes more likely to occur in the future. So next, let’s take a look at a few examples of intrinsic reinforcers.

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“Not all reinforcers controlling instrumental behavior are present as external rewards; in fact, many voluntary behaviors are controlled by intrinsic sources of reinforcement associated with the act itself. ” ~Steven Lindsay

Examples of Intrinsic Reinforcersdog intrinsic behavior

As the words above imply, intrinsic reinforcers come from within, but how can dogs gain reinforcement from within? We are so used to thinking of ourselves as the ultimate sources of reinforcement, our mind can go blank for a moment. Let’s think of behaviors dogs do that feel good on their own…Sniffing, chewing, chasing prey, playing, urine marking, barking, digging, retrieving objects and licking may be examples of intrinsically rewarding behaviors. However, one must remember that what’s reinforcing is in the eye of beholder, thus, what’s perceived as reinforcing to one dog may not necessarily be to another. There are several categories of intrinsic reinforcers, here are a few.

 

Genetically-Based Intrinsic Reinforcers: We will find that for certain types or breeds of dogs, certain behaviors they were bred for, are self-rewarding. Generally, the scent hounds gain internal reinforcement from going on a sniffing adventure, the sight hounds feel good when they go on a quick chase and the retrievers gain their inner reward when they get to retrieve a ball over and over without any need for external reinforcement.

Biologically-Based Intrinsic Reinforcers: the intrinsic reinforcer may feel good because it fulfills a biological need. If for example, a dog feels hot, going under a tree will cause the dog to feel better. The shade of the tree may therefore be an intrinsic reinforcer in this case, as the behavior of seeking shade in that place will likely repeat in the future. Most dogs share the same biologically driven, self-reinforcing behaviors because they are important for survival purposes.

Chemically- based Intrinsic Reinforcers: Sometimes a dog’s behavior is reinforced because of the presence of certain chemicals in the bloodstream. How it this possible? Emotions such as fear or anger can cause the release of chemicals in the dog’s brain and this can become physiologically addictive. James O’Heare, in the book “The Canine Aggression Workbook”explains that this could be an explanation as to why certain behaviors tend to repeat over and over.

Putting  Intrinsic Reinforcers to Good Use

The good thing about intrinsic reinforcement is that behaviors are maintained without the need of any form of external reinforcement. Your dog loves to sniff? On walks, after rehearsing some heeling exercises, you can reward your dog by loosening your leash and telling him to “go sniff!”Your dog loves to run at the dog park? Call him to you and then reward him by letting him go back to run around with his friends. Your dog has great fetching genes? Reward him for bringing a toy to you by tossing it again and again.

You can also take advantage of your dog’s biological needs and use them to you advantage. Simply know what your dog needs the most in a given moment and call your dog and provide him access to that intrinsic reinforcer. So is your dog in the yard playing and now he looks as if he’s feeling hot? Maybe he looks forward to being cool and perhaps he’s even a bit thirsty. Why not take advantage of these internal states to call your dog inside your cool home and reward him with fresh water? Your recall will be associated with these wonderful happenings! Was your energetic dog inside all day and you know he’s now dying to spend time playing and romping in the yard to burn up that pent-up energy? Have a helper stay in a room with the door closed while you go out in the yard leaving the backyard door open and call your dog. Let your helper open the door and watch him enthusiastically rush outside!

barkingAdding External Reinforcement

What happens though when an intrinsically-driven behavior is given external reinforcement? Let’s say a dog likes to bark a lot. It’s as if the dog just likes listening to his voice. A trainer starts giving a treat for every bark, and at some point, the trainer even puts the behavior on cue, by saying “speak” when the dog barks and rewards accordingly. At this point, what do you think will happen? Many people will think: “It would turn the dog into the biggest barking machine on earth since he’s reinforced for barking” while others may think “it will reduce the barking behavior because now you have control over it.” Who’s right? The best way to determine the effectiveness of this method is to simply look at what happens next: does the barking reduce or increase? There’s the best answer, but let’s take a closer look at the dynamics.

A Reduction in Barking 

With the above method of putting barking on cue, there are chances that at some point instead of barking because the dog likes to, he’ll start barking for treats. The barking behavior therefore may start becoming more and more dependent on the extrinsic reinforcer rather than the intrinsic one. For sake of an example, imagine making necklaces and giving them away as gifts. Then, one day out of the blue, you find a company that will actually pay for them. Most likely at this point you will want to work for money and you may never go back to giving necklaces as gifts. Once the behavior is strongly on cue and has attained stimulus control, there may therefore be a reduction in interest in performing an intrinsically reinforcing behavior.

An Increase in Barking

While putting an intrinsically reinforcing behavior on cue such as barking may make it less frequent, there are some risks though to keep in mind. Sure, we can easily put non-intrinsically reinforcing behaviors on stimulus control, but with intrinsically reinforcing behaviors things can get more challenging as we’re competing with its self-reinforcing nature. For example, the dog may learn to bark only when the owner asks him to, but left to his own devices, the dog may revert to barking for its intrinsic value when he’s home alone. And then, back to being in the presence of the owner, you may stumble on dogs who love to offer behaviors, so they will bark just in hopes of getting a reward. Oh, and let’s not forget about dogs who are smart enough to figure out that they must bark and wait the owner to give a “quiet” cue in order to get a treat! Owners should never reward their dog’s barking unless asked to, but the problem is that some dogs bark for attention, so with these dogs even the simple fact of looking at them or talking to them is sufficient to keep the barking behavior alive. So it’s also important to ask “why is the dog is barking in the first place?” Barking is often a dog’s way to release frustration, anxiety or stress so these states of mind will also need addressed.

A less convoluted, and most importantly, less risky option may be to train the dog to perform an alternate behavior instead. An option may be to thank the dog for alerting if he’s barking at outside stimuli, and then re-directing the dog to another more acceptable activity, such as coming to the owner or lying down on a mat for some treats or a longer lasting reward such as a stuffed Kong.

Here are just a few tips for dealing with intrinsically reinforced behaviors:

  • Use management strategies to prevent the dog from rehearsing the problem behavior
  •  Remember to provide positive outlets for the behavior (eg. provide acceptable digging areas, let your dog “hunt” for kibble in the home)
  • Train an incompatible behavior (tell your dog what you want him to do instead)
  • Interrupt behaviors with a trained cue
  • Put the behavior on cue (may not always work, but implemented correctly and with certain types of behaviors it may help somewhat)
  • Consider that ignoring the unwanted behavior may work poorly as intrinsically reinforcing behaviors are pretty much immune to extinction.
  • Keep in mind that these behaviors will never totally disappear as most are within the dog’s nature.
  • Avoid using harsh, aversion-based methods as these will only cause frustration, anxiety and stress.

 

References:

  • Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 2: Etiology and Assessment of Behavior Problems 1st Edition, by Steven R. Lindsay,  Iowa State University Press; 1st edition (2001)
  • Dog Aggression Workbook Paperback – December 1, 2007 by James O’Heare, Dogpsych Publishing; 0003- edition (December 1, 2007)

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Your Dog Will Never Get This Medical Condition

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In a certain way, dogs and humans (other than a few obvious differences) are quite similar when it comes to anatomy. We share several organs and our brains are designed in a similar fashion. It’s therefore not surprising that humans and dogs suffer similar medical conditions when it comes to health. For example, dogs just like us can develop muscle sprains, they can suffer from seizures and they can get urinary tract infections too. There are certain conditions though that we may never see in dogs and for some very good reasons. So today’ dog trivia question is:

Out of these conditions, which one doesn’t affect dogs?

A:  Laringitis (inflammation of the larynx)

B: Conjunctivitis (inflammation of the conjunctiva)

C: Tonsillitis (inflammation of the tonsil)

D: Appendicitis (inflammation of the appendix)

The correct answer is: Drumroll Please!

drum

Dogs, just like us, can get laringitis, they can get conjunctivitis, and they can also get their tonsils inflamed (tonsillitis), the only condition they will never get is appendicitis. So the correct answer is D: appendicitis. Why is that? Why do dogs not get appendicitis? For a very good reason, read on to discover why.

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dog appendixA Phantom Organ

Appendicitis is the inflammation of the appendix, a tube-shaped structure found by the colon in the lower right quadrant of the abdomen. When the appendix in humans gets red and angry, it causes severe abdominal pain accompanied by fever, nausea and vomiting.

While dogs may also develop these symptoms, they are rather associated with something else rather than the appendix.

Why is that? For the simple fact that dogs don’t have an appendix! So while a dog’s body shares many similar body features with us humans, the appendix is definitively an exception!

Not Useless as Thought

In humans, the appendix has been considered pretty much useless for many years, so much so that people can live without one without encountering any problems. However, recent research conducted at Duke University Medical School, has found that the appendix instead has likely a function, and a very important one too! The study’s findings suggest that the appendix works as a reservoir for good bacteria. Surgery professor Bill Parker, co-author for this study, claims that this reservoir is possibly there for a specific purpose: to help recover in the case of a sudden depletion of good bacteria as it can happen with serious diseases such as cholera or amoebic dysentery. Despite its usefulness, professor Parker though claims that the appendix should be still taken out when inflamed as appendicitis can turn deadly.

An Alternate Structuredog cecum

Even though several animals along with the dog don’t have an appendix, they seem to depend on some alternate structures, which, even though they might not  be as effective as the appendix, they’re still capable of storing good bacteria, explains professor Parker, this time in an article for Duke Magazine. 

The cecum, a pouch-like structure located nearby, may therefore work as a reservoir for beneficial bacteria in the eventuality of severe diarrhea, just like the appendix does in humans, explains veterinarian James C. Coghlan, in the book “Paleopet: The real reason your dog or cat eats grass.”

 

 

References:

  • Paleopet: The real reason your dog or cat eats grassKindle Edition, by James C. Coghlan DVM  Booktango (December 18, 2012)
  • NBC News, Scientists May Have Found Appendix’s Purpose, retrieved from the web on June 28th, 2016
  • Duke Magazine, Volume 94, No.2, March-April 2008, An Evolutionary Curiosity, retrieved from the web on June 28th, 2016

Photo credits:

  • Cieco (parte dell’intestino crasso) by Adert – Own work. CC BY-SA 3.0, modified  to add captions.

 

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I am Your Dog’s Dewclaw

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Whether your dog still has his dewclaws or you never got to see them because they were removed when he was just a few days old, it’s interesting learning more abut these structures. If you have no clue what dewclaws are, you are at the right place. Many dog owners are unaware that dogs have dewclaws until they get a closer look or they have seen them all the time but just weren’t aware they’re called this way. Today we’ll be learning more about dog dewclaws, where they are located and what they look like. We will also be taking a look at their function and how they may help a dog’s performance in some dog sports. So let’s have the dog’s dewclaw do some talking to get more familiar with this is often neglected body part.

Introducing Your Dog’s Dewclaw dog dewclaw

Hello, it’s your dog’s dewclaw talking! You may not be much familiar with me but you may have sometimes seen a breeder advertising a litter of puppies without dewclaws on a newspaper ad or you may have heard your vet talk about me. I am basically, somewhat the equivalent of your thumb, but I am located up your dog’s leg, and, unlike the rest of your dog’s toes, I generally don’t make contact with the ground when your dog is standing. I am typically found on your dog’s front legs, but in some breeds, I am present in the rear legs too. Actually, in some dogs you may find two of us on the same paw. This is seen in the great Pyrenees ans Icelandic sheepdog.  Dogs with this feature are known as being “double-dewclawed.” However, sometimes in some dogs, I may be poorly connected and prone to injury, so I am surgically removed.

If you do not see me on your dog’s  front leg, most likely your breeder has removed me when your dog was a puppy and less than 5-days-old. Poor me! The breeder just snipped me off using a nail clipper and the puppy obviously squealed since the procedure was done without anesthetic! You see, I  am still considered pretty much useless, and often perceived as a trouble maker as many people fear that I may get snagged on stuff when the dog is playing around or working. Since I rarely touch the ground, unlike other toes,  I don’t get worn down and this may cause me to grow quite long and require frequent trims. In many cases, I am simply removed so the dog can adhere to its breed standard. However, as of late, people have been discovering that I am there for some reason, rather than being a useless inconvenience worthy of being tossed away.

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I am There for a Reason!lundehunde

Even though I may look like a useless structure, more and more people are discovering that I have several functions. First of all, let’s take a closer look into my anatomy. According to veterinarian and rehabilitation specialist Christine Zink, I am attached to five tendons and such tendons are attached to a muscle. Hey, don’t know about you, but to me this suggests that I must have some sort of functionality!

If you look at the Norwegian lundehund dog (which, by the way sports six toes!) and what these dogs used to do for a living, you will see how I was considered an asset more than an inconvenience. But without going back in time or visiting distant lands, you may be interested in discovering that even the average dog may actually need me.

 

Dogs Use Me!bone dog

Sure you likely won’t see your dog using me to send text message or engage in some innocent thumb-twiddling activity, but please stop labeling me as useless. If your dog is able of grasping a toy, bone or stick  it’s often thanks to me that he has such good manual dexterity. Indeed, I can help dogs grasp objects and hold them in place so they can effectively gnaw on them.

 I also play a role in helping Rover climb up, (ever known some dogs can climb trees?), and when he has a sudden itch, my extra nail can come handy in reaching certain hard- to-reach spots.

 

agility dewclawI Prevent Torque

If your dog is a working dog or simply loves the sport of agility, you may want to think twice before thinking of me as useless and snagging me off.  You see, when your romps around at a fast pace and makes a tight turn, it is thanks to me that your dog’s leg doesn’t twist on itself.

Indeed, according to Christine Zink, when dogs canter or gallop, and then make a quick turn, their dewclaws get in contact with the ground, digging in to provide more traction and preventing the dogs’ legs from getting potentially twisted or injured.

 

” I have seen many canine athletes with carpal arthritis. Interestingly, this condition is much more common in dogs that have had their front dewclaws removed” ~ Dr. Christine Zink,  veterinarian and rehabilitation specialist.

 

When Things Go Wrongdouble dewclaws

Did I already say that sometimes I can be a troublemaker? Because I don’t wear down as the other nails on the dog’s toes, I may grow quite long and if I am not trimmed often enough, I can even embed in the dog’s paw pad. Sometimes, I am weak and barely attached. When I flimsy like that, I tend to get caught on something and may cause pain, bleeding and sometimes even an infection. Yes, I can’t blame you, it’s annoying to deal with these inconveniences, especially when I am not structured too well,  but please wait before thinking that my presence is always bad news!

Did you know? While the general trend in mammals is to have five toes at the end of a leg, fossil evidence shows that a loss of toes in cursorial animals (such as dogs) was convenient as it made for a lighter foot, allowing dogs to   maintain higher speeds over long distances.

“Members of the dog family (canids) have small feet, with usually four digits in contact with the ground. The small size and weight of their limbs requires less energy to move, allowing them to run more efficiently.”~ John Buckwalter,  Professor, Physical and Life Sciences, SUNY College of Technology, Alfred, NY

The Bottom Line 

 As seen, I carry out several functions! Perhaps this is another reason why (other than the obvious pain factor) removing me has become illegal in some countries. You see, people often remove me for cosmetic reasons only rather than medical ones, which is a shame because I am not totally useless as people often portray me.  I hope this article has helped you understand me and has raised some awareness of my important functions. In the meanwhile, I wish you and your dog, a good rest of your day (and, Rover, no more thumb-twiddling please!)

Your Dog’s DewclawDog Pawprint

References:

  • MadSci Network, Why do dogs have dewclaws? and why are they only in the front?John Buckwalter, retrieved from the web on April 10th, 2o16.
  •  Vertebrates: Structures and Functions, By S. M. Kisia, CRC Press (April 12, 2010)
  • Do the Dew(claws)?  by M. Christine Zink DVM, PhD, DACVSMR, retrieved from the web on Aprile 10th, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • Letter “D” in the image indicates the dewclaw on this dog’s front paw. Letter “E” is the carpal pad. Amos T Fairchild – own work (photo and GIMP modifications) CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Wikipedia, Foot of a Norwegian Lundehund. Picture taken by myself, User:ZorroIII, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
  • jaimekay16, agility163,  Flickr creative commons (CC BY 2.0)
  • Picture of dual dewclaw on hind leg of Border Collie / Burnese mountain dog 5 month old puppy, by VinCBR900 Licensed under the GFDL by the author; Released under the GNU Free Documentation License
  • Wonderlane Rose, a puppy, chewing on a bone, south U District near the Montlake Cut, Seattle, Washington, USA,  Flickr creative commons CC BY 2.0
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Understanding Dogs That Stalk Other Dogs

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It’s not an unusual sight: a dog watches another dog walk by, his look is fixated on the dog, then, he lowers his body assuming a stalking posture that mimics the creeping as often seen in predators. Stalking behaviors are sometimes seen more in certain dog breeds than others, but they can be seen in many other dogs. The sight may be funny in certain contexts, but there are cases where the stalking behaviors may be worrisome, especially when there seems to be an intent to harm incorporated in the behavior.

dog stalkA Hunting Strategy

A dog’s stalking behavior can be strikingly similar to that seen in other predator animals we may have watched in some wild animal documentaries. However, nowadays dogs have been domesticated and their natural predatory sequence (eye, orient, stalk, chase, grab/bite, kill/bite, dissect, consume) has been morphed through selective breeding so that they could work with animals without harming them.

Dogs with a history of having high prey drive include those within the herding group. These dogs will stalk, crouch and creep, run and sometimes even nip, but their predatory drive doesn’t encompass the final consummatory phase, explains veterinary behaviorist  Dr. Nicholas Dodman.

This of course is important, otherwise more than herding sheep, dogs would be eating them!

Stalking and herding behaviors may be so strong in certain dogs that, if not provided with an outlet, they will seek other ways to redirect it. For instance, a border collie without sheep to herd may stalk and chase people on bikes or running children, explain Emily Weiss, Heather Mohan-Gibbons and Stephen Zawistowski in the book “Animal Behavior for Shelter Veterinarians and Staff.”

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dog tipDid you know? The behavior of crouching down and leaping in the air can be seen in puppies when they pounce on their toys and then shake them, pretending they are prey. This behavior seems to have an early start. According to dog trainer Arden Moore, it first starts to surface at around 5 weeks of age.

A Matter of Playdog stalk

Some dogs incorporate stalking  and other predatory behaviors into their play sessions with other dogs. Dogs may stare, stalk, chase, nip, grab, and wrestle in play.  They often takes turns playing predator and prey roles.

Rough play is often preceded by a play bow, which is a meta-signal that tells the dog that what comes next is just play.

When it comes to stalking, a dog may stare another dog intensely, start stalking and, then suddenly pounce followed by a game of play biting, wrestling or chase. In these “play ambush” games both dogs playing look loose, bouncy and overall happy.

Stalking may therefore sometimes be appropriate when dogs give frequent meta-signals to communicate their playful intent or when dogs know each other well and are familiar with each other’s play styles (think play mates or dogs sharing the same household).

Stalking though becomes risky when it’s exhibited among unfamiliar dogs. Sometimes the dog who is aware of  being stealthily approached (the “stalkee“) may appear somewhat vigilant or worried about the other dog showing a stalking posture directed towards him. He may walk cautiously keeping an eye on the stalker as if he knows he’s a target, and when the stalker pounces, he may just freeze while the other dog sniffs over him or he even may act defensively.

Repeated stalking can become a form of bullying when the dog being stalked appears intimidated by the behavior and hides.  For those who frequent the dog park, this is definitely a behavior to keep an eye on.

stalk dog

Sometimes, an intense stare and stalking behavior can be a sign of big trouble when the behavior is exhibited by a large dog targeting  a smaller dog or some small, furry pet.

Some sight hounds, may see any hare-looking animals as fair game, and this may sometimes include small dogs, explains David Ryan, a Certified Clinical Animal Behaviourist in the book “Dogs that Bite and Fight.”

Dogs slowly creep towards their target, stalking silently as predatory behavior is usually quiet. If the dog is growling or barking, it’s likely not predatory behavior,  The only exception would be if the dog is held back from performing the predatory behavior and starts barking, but this would be from frustration, further points out David Ryan.

“Preparatory behaviors (eg, sniffing, scanning, searching and stalking) belonging to the prey drive system are under the influence of a positive feedback mechanism that makes their performance mechanism that makes their performance intrinsically reinforcing for dogs. ” ~Steven Lindsay

Behavior On Walksdog stalking other dogs

Some dogs may do the whole stalking/hunker down/creeping behavior when they see another dog on walks. This behavior may be frowned upon by other dogs and dog owners as they may not understand whether the dog’s intent is friendly or not.

It is important not to use aversive methods (leash pops, collar corrections, spray bottles, shock collars etc.) to correct this behavior as this can lead to the dog associating the corrections with the sight of other dogs which can lead to further exacerbating problems down the road.

Instead of correcting the behavior through fear or intimidation, it would be best letting the dog know what to do instead. It’s best to guide the dog into performing a more appropriate behavior (eg. watch me)  before he sets on the intense stare  as this behavior may be difficult to interrupt once initiated  for a good reason Patricia McConnell calls it the “locked and loaded” look!). If your dog is showing worrisome stalking behaviors consult with a force-free dog trainer/behavior consultant.

“Dogs that pull on leash often approach other dogs with a lowered body posture (as they put their weight into the leash) combined with “choking” on the leash. This can be interpreted by some dogs as a stalking-­like behavior and makes the other dog nervous.”~Lore I. Haug –Veterinary Behaviorist

Just for Fun: What Bored Border Collies Do When They Clock Out

 

References:

  • Pet Place, Understanding Hunting & Predatory Behavior, retrieved from the web on June 26th, 2016
  • Animal Behavior for Shelter Veterinarians and Staff, edited by Emily Weiss, Heather Mohan-Gibbons, Stephen Zawistowski, Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (July 7, 2015)
  • Off Leash Dog Play: A Complete Guide to Safety and Fun, By Robin Bennett, CPDT and Susan Briggs, CKO, RB Consulting; 1st edition (January 1, 2008)
  • Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Procedures and Protocols, edited by Steven R. Lindsay, Wiley-Blackwell; Volume Three edition (June 15, 2005)
  • The Dog Behavior Answer Book: Practical Insights & Proven Solutions for Your Canine Questions, By Arden Moore, Storey Publishing, LLC (November 8, 2006)
  • Dogs that Bite and Fight, By David Ryan PG Dip (CABC) CCAB, lulu.com (September 17, 2013)
  • Dog Behavior Q and A with Dr. Lore Haug, retrieved from the web on June 26th, 2016

Photo Credits:

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Three Reasons Dogs May Hate The Veterinary Exam Table

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By Adrienne Farricelli CPDT-KA

Many dogs dread the vet, we all know that, but we sometimes may not be aware of exactly what may trigger their fear. Sure, being touched, poked and prodded in a small room with nowhere to escape isn’t something that dogs really look forward to, and on top of that, dogs tend to pick up the fear of other dogs there and may react accordingly. The exam table though is often overlooked as a source of dog’s fear at the vet, when in reality, many dogs dread it. So what’s wrong with that innocent-looking table? Let’s take a look at it from a dog’s perspective, shall we? Here are three reasons dogs may hate the examination table.

dog scared of examination table1) Lack of Exposure

First of all, the exam table is often overlooked when it comes to exposure. Many puppy owners are often told to get their puppies accustomed to veterinary offices from an early age by stopping by the office for treats. So puppy owners swing by the office, the veterinary staff fuss all over the puppy and give him treats and then back to normal life they go. Many puppies therefore fail to visit the actual exam room, fail to meet the vet and aren’t placed on the quintessential examination table. Even when puppy owners try to set up “mock vet visits’ by placing the puppy on a household table and having other people pretend to be a vet examining the puppy, they miss exposing their puppies to the “real feel” of a vet’s examination table.

A veterinarian’s examination table is unlike any tables your puppy or dog will ever encounter in a household setting, so unless you have a similar surface to practice on, it may be difficult to replicate its feel for the purpose of getting a puppy accustomed to it. Most vet examination tables are made of stainless steel or some other hard metal surface. The reason for use of these materials is a practical one: they are easy to wipe down. Just a few spritz of disinfectant spray and voila’ the table is ready for the next patient. So yes, practical and important for sanitary reasons, but not with the animal’s best interest in mind.

 

2) Negative Associationsdog fear of vet

Does your dog get all excited when you grab the leash and acts all eager to go on walks? Does hearing you open the refrigerator cause him to come running in hopes for a goody? Does the sight of the bath towel cause him to hide in fear of a bath? These reactions are normal as dogs tend to associate events, pairing one to another. So if your dog has a negative experience while he’s on the exam table, he will quickly learn that bad things happen there, so next time (not surprisingly) he will be more uncomfortable and reluctant to be examined there. On top of that, the fear may also generalize to other stimuli or events, so a dog may start with a fear of the the exam table and then end up with other fears such as fear of the veterinary office smell or even  fear of the car ride to the vet.

“When cats and dogs are fractious, scared or embrassing and difficult for the clients, veterinary care is delayed or avoided. This means that patients are seen only when they are sicker and the situation is potentially tragic.”~Karen Overall

dog scared exam table3) A Matter of Feel

One may think at this point that dogs don’t really fear the examination table per se’, but the things that happen on it. However, this is not always true. There may be dogs who are fine with the vet but dread the table. Why? Another problem with the examination table is “its feel.” How does it feel to a dog? Veterinary exam tables are cold, and worst of all, slippery. Not only is the puppy or dog in a small room with little chance to escape, but he’s also placed on the examination table, where he’s touched just about everywhere, and possibly, poked and prodded with needles, and even if he tries to escape, his feet slip out from under him, leaving him in quite a helpless or panicky situation.

Ever seen those humid paw prints left on the exam table? Yup, a sure sign of stress! On top of that, exam tables are high, and many puppies and dogs aren’t used to being lifted up onto the table.

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“I have a slide I show my veterinary students where I show a dog with its legs kind of splayed out bracing itself on a slick veterinary table. I show it to the vet students and say, ‘Do you see anything about this picture?’ Most of them don’t see that the dog is having difficulty standing on that table. You go on the Internet and you type in ‘dog at the veterinary clinic’ and you get all these cute pictures there, and half the dogs have their front feet splayed out because they’re having trouble staying upright — and people don’t notice it.” ~Temple Grandin

Implementing Changes

(Tony Alter/Flickr)
Tony Alter/Flickr)

As seen, examination tables can be scary to dogs! Fear of the vet though is often made of several fears lumped up together rather than one fear alone, but they can start with just one stimulus and then generalize to others. What can be done to help these dogs? Owners and staff of more and more veterinary offices are becoming aware of the implications of pets having negative experiences within their practices’ walls. The late applied animal behaviorist, trainer, author and lecturer, Sophia Yin started a movement called Low Stress Handling, which focused on making veterinary office less stressful to pets and safer for veterinarians and staff.  As of late, there is a renewed interest in making veterinary clinics less scary. Some veterinary hospitals now even hold puppy socialization classes where pups get to be exposed to stimuli associated with the veterinary environment, “like going on a scale for treats or associating the smell of alcohol with training and play,” explains dog trainer Mikkel Becker.

When it comes to the examination table there are several things that can be done to make a change. For mild fear and food-motivated puppies and dogs, the exam table can be converted into a “feeding station” where they are fed tasty treats while mindful vets examine the pet while giving praise and loving on them. Another option is to make the surface of the exam table less scary. Some veterinary hospitals have started to place towels or other nonslip surfaces over the exam table. Veterinary behaviorist Karen Overall, in the book”Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats” suggests using a mat the pet has been previously positively conditioned to. Puppies and dogs can be easily trained to “go to a mat” and sit for treats. Not a bad idea to choose one with a a nonslip bottom. An innovative product is the Ezee-Visit Pet Vet Mat which is purposely built to provide secure footing on slippery veterinary surfaces.

Want to really kick things up a notch? Choose a vet who is willing to skip the exam table all together. Veterinary surgeon Dr. Jennifer Wardlaw for instance doesn’t force her patients to get on the examination table but has opted instead to get down on the floor with the animal for their exams. Talk about putting the pet’s comfort first!  To further help your canine companion, consider still using a mat your dog is accustomed to during these on-the-floor exams.

“Be sure that you have a nonslip surface on the exam table to reduce the pet’s fear and anxiety.” Dr. Marty Becker

 

References:

  • Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs and Cats: Techniques for Developing Patients Who Love Their Visits by Dr. Sophia Yin (CattleDog Publishing, 2009; ISBN 978-0964151840)
  • Elsevier, Temple Grandin on new edition of ‘Genetics and the Behavior of Domestic Animals’, retrieved from the web on June 25th, 2016
  • DVM 360, Table the table, and other Fear Free tips from a veterinary orthopedist, retrieved from the web on June 25th, 2016
  • Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, By Karen Overall, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)

Photo Credits:

  • A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Tony Alter, Clean Bill Of Health, (CC BY 2.0) Flickr, Creative Commons
    Wonderlane Starving puppies, Fuzzy, Orange and Blue Boy, at the Veterinarians office, San Rosalia, Baja California Sur, Mexico, (CC BY 2.0) Flickr, Creative Commons

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