When dogs are stressed, their bodies are bombarded with hormones and neurotransmitters that trigger what are known as the four F’s of stress: the popular fight-or-flight response, and the less known fool around and freeze responses. Being aware of these responses and their effects on dogs is important, but equally important is managing the dog’s environment so that he is prevented from experiencing these negative responses in the first place. Because yes, a little bit of stress is normal when coping with the ups and downs life randomly throws out at dogs, but too much stress, especially if it’s the intense, recurrent type, can have an overall negative impact on a dog’s health and overall well-being.
Stress Responses in Dogs
Just like us, when dogs are stressed, they release noradrenaline, adrenaline and cortisol. These neurotransmitters and hormones cause a variety of physiological changes meant to provide a quick boost of energy in hopes of getting the dog quickly out of trouble and up his chances of survival. These are times where there is little time to think, as one must act quickly.
Physiological changes in stress responses in dogs include: increased heart rate and breathing rate, increased blood pressure, increased muscle tension and increased blood flow to muscles (allowing dogs to sprint into action), increased blood clotting (to prevent excessive blood loss), increased glucose levels (for a quick burst of energy), dilated pupils (to allow dogs to see with more clarity) and lowered threshold for aggression (caution, dogs may bite more easily when stressed!)
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Did you know? The fight and flight response was first described by American physiologist Walter Bradford Cannon in 1920. Canon also developed the concept of homeostasis from the earlier idea of Claude Bernard.
The Flight Response in Dogs
As the term implies, this response depicts fleeing to avoid a threatening stimulus or event. It’s avoidance behavior at best. Dogs may cower, move away, attempt to hide.
Examples include dogs hiding when a thunderstorm rolls in, moving away from a scary open umbrella, pulling on the leash to escape from something perceived as scary.
The flight response can be considered adaptive considering that fleeing can heighten the chances for an animal’s survival, possibly preventing himself from sustaining injuries.
“Fleeing is an excitatory response to fearful arousal that is typically elicited by high levels of fear or the close presence of an intrusive threat.”~~Steve Lindsay
The Fight Response in Dogs
As the term implies, this response depicts a defensive response from a dog who will use aggressive displays in hopes of removing the threatening stimulus.
Dogs may lunge, growl, snap and attempt to bite. Examples include dogs who snap when they are cornered, dogs who lunge at other other dogs, dogs who attack other animals they perceived as threatening.
The fight response is also adaptive considering that it may be used when the animal cannot escape a confrontation and is forced to protect himself.
“Fear elicited fighting occurs in situations involving intense fearful arousal and where flight is blocked by the threatening target.”~Steve Lindsay
Freeze Response in Dogs
As the term implies, dogs will freeze when presented with a threatening stimulus or situation.
In dogs, we may see the freeze response when they stop doing things such as when they are reprimanded or stand motionless upon hearing a noise or noticing at a distance an animal or other stimulus that they may fear.
The freeze response is considered adaptive, considering that in the wild, upon spotting a threatening stimulus, remaining motionless allows the animal the opportunity to evaluate the situation and possibly, avoid detection from a predator considering that motion cues in a freezing animal are non-existent. It’s basically “playing ‘possum” or in other words, feigning death.
“Freezing is an inhibitory response to fearful arousal that is typically elicited by low levels of stimulation or a distant threat.”~Steve Lindsay
Fool Around Response in Dogs
Sometimes, when dogs are under pressure, they may engage in behaviors that may seem out of context. It’s a similar reaction to coping mechanisms seen by some people who inappropriately tell a joke at a funeral.
In dogs, the fool around response includes acting plain silly such as jumping, performing play bows, playing and acting over the top at times when they are feeling stressed. For instance, a dog at the vet’s office who starts rolling on the ground or bites the leash in play, may be trying to transfer the focus off of one situation and onto another.
When dogs behave this way, their stress is often not identified as it’s not straightforward as a dog who is shaking or growling. Some dogs are labeled just as acting plain silly, or worse, they are reprimanded for being stubborn.
” I don’t know how many dogs came into my office like bullet trains, and ricocheted around my office for a few minutes before they settled down. Their owners would often say “Oh, he’s so friendly” as they leaped on top of me, my desk and my computer. I always saw them as frantic, and was reminded of how I can begin chattering like a mockingbird when I’m nervous.” ~Patricia McConnell
A Matter of Choices
What makes a dog choose to fight over flight or some other response? Interestingly, dogs don’t always follow a distinct pattern when it comes to freezing, fleeing, fighting and fooling around. There are specific circumstances that may play a role on whether a dog will be making a subconscious choice of one over the other.
These “chosen” survival reaction may therefore be based on the dog’s overall health status, speed, temperament, memories of past experiences, availability of support etc.
For instance, a mother dog with puppies is more likely to engage in fight considering that flight is not an option because it would mean leaving her vulnerable altricial puppies on their own. An older dog or an animal not feeling well, may as well choose fight rather than flight due to limited mobility or weakness.
Sometimes, breed can also play a role. Some breeds of dogs were selectively bred for having less or more resilience compared to others and their response to stress may reflect that. For instance, beagles may freeze almost to the point of catatonia; whereas, small terriers may respond to fear by barking and running around the fear-eliciting stimulus, explain Jon Bowen and Sarah Heath in the book “Behaviour Problems in Small Animals: Practical Advice for the Veterinary Team.”
What Happens After?
It’s the ultimate goal of the body to return to a state of normality, what is known as “homeostasis.“ After enduring an episode of acute stress, the dog’s body will therefore work on reaching again a state of balance or equilibrium. This is when the dog “shakes off” the stress so to relax tight muscles as his breathing rate gradually goes back to normal and his heart rate slows down.
After the fearful event is over, ideally, the dog’s body should work to resume a state of normalcy where dogs will be willing to resume eating, drinking, sleeping and playing again and go on their lives (at least until another fear-eliciting episode takes place!)
However, what happens with dogs who are exposed to chronic stress? If the stress continues for some times, burnout may occur as the body starts getting exhausted and this can have negative effects on the body.
Intense and prolonged stress can affect the immune system and cause a host of problems such as skin disorders, digestive disorders and even shortened life spans, explains veterinary behaviorist Gary Landsberg. A dog’s ability to learn is often affected and dogs may endure in disrupted sleep patterns. Some dogs remain in a perpetual state of hypervigilance and have a hard time relaxing even when nothing is happening. Because of these effects, it’s important to reduce stress in dogs and enlist the help of a qualified professional before they become chronic.
References:
Neurobiology of the Parental Brain, edited by Robert Bridges, Academic Press; 1 edition (July 29, 2008)
Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Etiology and Assessment By Steve Lindsay, Iowa State University Press; Volume One edition (January 31, 2000)
Photo Credits:
Michael Gil, Discipline!, No Dogs were harmed in the taking of this picture! CCBY2.0
If you ever took a look at ads for puppies for sale or for adoption by a breeder, rescue group or shelter, you may have stumbled upon the term “fully vetted.” What exactly though does it mean for a puppy or dog to be fully vetted? It’s always important to conduct a lot of research before opening your heart and home to a new puppy or dog. Will the puppy or dog be a good fit for your home? How will his temperament be? On top of these, important questions, one another important aspects to look at is health so to not end up owning sickly puppies who will only cause hefty veterinary bills and heartbreaks. Knowing whether a puppy or dog is fully vetted is therefore important, but it’s also important to understand what the breeder or rescue group exactly means by that term as it’s seems to be prone to personal interpretation.
Definition of “Fully Vetted”
According to The Free Dictionary, the term “vetted” means “to subject to veterinaryevaluation,examination,medication, or surgery.” As one may imagine, the term derives from “vet” referring to veterinarian.
If we look at the history of the word, Wikipedia tells us that the verb “to vet” was originally a term used in horse racing and was used to depict the practice of subjecting a race horse to a thorough veterinary exam before being allowed to race.
The term has therefore assumed the general meaning “to check over.” According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the earliest usage of this term dates back to 1891, eg. “He vetted the stallion before the race.”
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The addition of the word “fully” therefore adds further emphasis to the term, giving the idea that the animal is checked over with thoroughly with quite an amount of scrutiny for any flaws.
What Does a “Fully Vetted” Dog Mean?
When it comes to dogs, the term “fully vetted” is often a loose term that is subject to personal interpretation. It could refer to a dog being merely checked over by a vet, to a dog who has been spayed or neutered, vaccinated, heartworm tested, microchipped, and possibly even dewormed.
This is why it is very important to ask the breeder or rescue what they exactly mean when they use the term “fully vetted.”
Words are just words, and one must also require facts such as proof of vaccinations, with dates and types of booster shots given along with other important health records.
The breeder or rescue should be willing to provide copies of all these records. Perspective puppy and dog owners must consider that these veterinary services alone could easily amount to costing anywhere between $300-$1,000, so when paying the nominal adoption fee one must keep into consideration the money saved when getting a fully vetted puppy or dog.
A Closer Insight
For new puppy or dog owners it may be overwhelming understanding what is included when a puppy or dog is claimed to be “fully vetted.” Here is a brief overview of some services that “may be” included when a puppy or dog is claimed to be “fully vetted.” Obviously, not all of these services are necessarily included so when in doubt it’s best to ask.
Spayed: a female dog that is altered so that she doesn’t go into heat and have puppies.
Neutered: a male dog that is altered so that he is no longer capable of impregnating female dogs.
Booster shots: a series of vaccinations given to puppies generally starting at the age of 6 to 8 weeks and given about every three to four weeks until the puppy is about 16 to 20 weeks old. In puppies older than 16 weeks, usually two doses of vaccine are given 3-4 weeks apart. In adult dogs who have received their booster shots as puppies, they may be vaccinated annually or every 3 years, depending on local veterinary recommendations. Required shots tend to vary based on location and risks. Consult with your vet on which vaccines are needed for your new puppy or dog.
Core vaccines: vaccines recommended for all puppies and dogs with an unknown vaccination history. Core vaccines in dogs protect from diseases with high risks for morbidity and mortality. Generally, core vaccinations consist of distemper, canine hepatitis, canine parvovirus, and rabies shot. The rabies shot is required by law in many States and is generally given after the puppy is 16 weeks of age.
Non-core vaccinations:optional vaccines based on individual factors such as exposure risk, geographic location and the dog’s lifestyle.
DHPP, DHPPVor DHLP-PVC an abbreviation used to denote a combo shot. The capital letters stand for different types of vaccines included,usually as follows: D stands for distemper, H stands for hepatitis, L stands for leptospirosis, P stands for parainfluenza, PV stands for parvo, C stands for coronavirus. This combo shot for dogs is also known as 5 in 1 shot or 8 in 1 shot depending on how many vaccines are included.
Microchipped: the puppy or dog has a microchip implanted under the skin for identification purposes. Puppy and dog owners should have the microchip registered under their name with an up-to-date address and phone number, so that, in the case the puppy or dog is lost, he can be promptly returned to his owners.
Fecal Flotation Test: the puppy’s or dog’s feces were tested for the presence of parasites.
Dewormed: the puppy or dog was given a medication against parasites.
Heartworm tested: the puppy or dog was tested for heartworm disease. Usually, veterinarians will start testing for heartworms when puppies are around 6-7 months of age.
Flea/tick preventive: the puppy or dog was given products to keep fleas and ticks at bay.
Fully Vetted Doesn’t Necessarily Mean Healthy!
As much as the term “fully vetted” seems to suggest receiving a healthy dog, it’s often recommended to take a new puppy or dog along with all paperwork received to see the vet within 48 hours so to have a complete physical examination done. Many things can have changed since the puppy or dog saw the vet last time.
At this exam, the vet will be checking the puppy’s ears, mouth, nose and other things such as taking the temperature, listening to the heart etc.
The vet will go over the records to see if the puppy or dog may need any further vaccinations or de-worming done.
Bringing in a small fecal sample may turn helpful so to test for the presence of parasites. In older dogs, blood work may turn helpful to get a better insight on the dog’s general state of health.
“A veterinarian should give new puppies a thorough physical examination; ideally within 48 hours of you acquiring your new puppy, to ensure he is healthy.”~Green Hills Veterinary Clinic
Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Consult with your vet for proper preventive care and treatment.
References:
Green Hills Veterinary Clinic: Your Puppy’s First Vaccinations, retrieved from the web on November 8th, 2016
Photo Credits:
A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0
When it comes to bone fractures in dogs, there are several types. Fractures seen in dogs can be categorized into two main categories: open and closed fractures. The term open fracture refers to fractures that communicate with outside. In other words, the broken bone penetrates through the skin and is exposed. Closed fractures instead refer to fractures that do not communicate with the outside. In other words, the broken bone remains encased within the skin. Fortunately, according to the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine, most fractures involving dogs are closed. Another type of fracture involving dogs, is a pathological fracture. Do you know what a pathological fracture in dogs is? Today’s trivia question therefore is:
What is a Pathological Fracture?
A) A fracture caused by an underlying disease
B) A fracture caused by trauma such as an automobile injury or a fall.
C) A fracture that breaks in several parts
D) A fracture caused by an unknown reason.
The correct answer is: drum roll please….
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The correct answer is A, a pathological fracture in dogs is a fracture caused by an underlying disease.
About Dog Pathological Fractures
Normal and healthy dog bones are quite resistant to wear and tear and, unless exposed to traumatic events, they are quite resistant to fracturing.
Bone density in dogs isn’t not lost as much as in humans, which is likely why osteoporosis in dogs is quite rare.
Osteoporosis, which is very common in post-menopausal human women, is therefore not a widely accepted diagnosis for dogs among veterinarians, also because dogs don’t go into menopause as human women do.
Healthy dogs are also (in most cases) fed a balanced, high-quality diet provided with all the nutrients they need to develop and maintain healthy bones.
Dogs therefore should not need calcium supplementation for healthy bones as their foods already contain adequate amounts of the minerals in proper balance with other minerals, explains veterinarian Dr. Erika Raines.
Causes of Pathological Fractures in Dogs
A fracture in a dog occurring without a history of trauma is suspected to be occurring because of an underlying condition that weakens the bone. When a bone is weakened to a certain extent, it reaches a point where it’ll spontaneously break or it takes very little trauma to break it.
What conditions in dogs are known for causing pathological fractures in dogs? Unfortunately, one of the most common causes of pathological fractures are bone cancers. Osteosarcoma in dogs is known to cause bone to be destroyed from the inside out. As the bone is destroyed, tumorous bone replaces it, but it’s not as strong as regular bone and therefore has a tendency to break.
Bone cancer in dogs can often be confirmed by x-ray. Because a bone that is broken because of cancer is not going to heal properly, amputation is often recommended, explains veterinarian Dr. Christine M. Splints and casts are unfortunately not helpful for pathological fractures due to bone cancer. Some big universities though may offer limb sparing options.
Other possible causes for pathological fractures in dogs include osteomyelitis; an infection of the bone, an endocrine disorder known as hyperparathyroidism, and malnourishment although this is very rare in dogs fed a normal diet, explains veterinarian Dr. Scott Nimmo. When it comes to pathological fractures of the jaw in dogs, these can be due to severe periodontal disease secondary to bone loss, explains Dr. Niemiec a veterinarian specializing in animal dentistry. These fractures of the lower jaw are quite common in small and toy breed dogs and can happen with very mild force during innocent activities such as eating or playing with a toy.
” While typically fractures occur after a traumatic incident, such as being hit by a car or falling from a height, some fractures occur following a pathologic weakening of the bone, which is seen with certain neoplastic conditions, such as osteosarcoma.”~Today’s Veterinary Practice
Photo Credits:
Flick, Creative Commons, F Delventhal, Schuyler’s Cast CCBY2.0
Your dog’s ribs are what provide structure and shape to his chest cavity along with important protection for many vital organs. You might not really pay much attention to your dog’s ribs, but you may have noticed at some time the rise and fall of your dog’s rib cage when your dog inhales and exhales. Chances are high that your dog may never develop any problems with his ribs, but it’s still an interesting part of your dog’s body that deserves some attention. So today, let’s discover more about your dog’s ribs, what they do and some potential problems that they may develop.
Introducing Your Dog’s Ribs
Hello, it’s your dog’s ribs talking! You may not be familiar with how we look, but hey, animal anatomy is quite similar, so when you’re at a restaurant and order a rack of ribs, you kind of get an idea of what we look like.
We are basically those curved bones that form your dog’s rib cage giving your dog’s abdomen its familiar barrel-like shape. On the top, we attach to your dog’s vertebral column or spine which keeps us in place by the back area. We then basically spring away from the spine at the top in a wide curve and then curve back at the bottom where some of us attach to the sternum (breastbone).
The first sets of us that connect directly to your dog’s sternum are known as “true ribs” while the ones that are not directly connected to the sternum are called “false ribs.”While you have 12 pairs of us, for a total of 24 ribs, your dog has 13 pairs of us, for a total of 26 ribs.
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Did you know? Unlike the rest of your dog’s ribs, the cartilage of your dog’s last rib doesn’t connect to anything at all and is therefore called a “floating rib.”
We Provide Protection
If you look at our shape, we are similar to the bars of a cage which have an important protective function: enclosing and protecting your dog’s vital organs, such as your dog’s lungs and heart.
On top of protecting the heart and lungs, we also provide protection to your dog’s stomach, spleen, and kidneys from any external injury.
In addition to acting like a protective shield, we provide your dog with a framework onto which the muscles of your dog’s chest, back, upper abdomen can attach.
Did you know? By placing your handsover your dog’s rib cage, you can tell whether he’s overweight. If you feel the ribs easily, your pet is normal weight, but if the ribs are hard to feel or you can feel a layer of fat between the skin and ribs, your pet might be overweight, according to a handout by Dr. Ernest Ward Jr.
When Things Go Wrong
As with other bones and structures, we are prone to a variety of problems. These problems may not be as common as others that dogs may be predisposed to, but they may happen on occasion.
Bone Cancer of the Dog’s Rib
Perhaps the most worrisome of all problems affecting us, is osteosarcoma, an aggressive and malignant form of bone cancer that is prone to spreading (metastatize). When this type of cancer affects us, there is often a visible or at least a palpable mass on us. Some dogs may shows front-leg lameness when one of the first four of us are affected and the mass is compressing nerves that travel to the leg.
If the mass is large or the cancer has spread to the lungs, it can cause trouble breathing. Treatment consists of surgical removal of the affected rib, as well as the unaffected ribs in front and behind. Fortunately, dogs tolerate well the removal of such a large portion of the rib cage, explains Daniel A. Degner, a board-certified Veterinary Surgeon.
Fracture of Dog’s Rib
As other bones in your dog’s body we are prone to breaking. When we fracture it is usually the result of a car accident or some sort of blunt force such as a strong kick or a large dog biting and shaking a smaller dog. Usually, if we stay in place and the structures around us are undamaged, we generally heal on our own as long as we’re taped by a vet and the affected dog is as prescribe a pain reliever, but if we are out of place, affected dogs may deal with complications. For instance, when we brake, we may cause bruising to the dog’s lungs and this can lead to trouble breathing. A punctured lung may cause free air in the dog’s chest and a collapsed lung is a serious issue. When we break and the dog develops a change in his breathing and pale gums appear, this is indicative of the dog not getting enough oxygen. A vet should be seen ASAP!
As seen, we are on duty 24/7 for all your dog’s life, protecting all his vital organs from injury. And we do quite a good job at that, considering that it really takes quite a blow to harm us! As always, keep us in mind, as you marvel at the great body your dog was gifted with it.
Yours truly,
Your Dog’s Ribs
Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If you suspect your dog has a broken rib or some other health problem, please see your vet immediately.
References:
Vet Surgery Central, Chest Wall Tumors – Rib Tumors, retrieved from the web on November 7th, 2016
Photo Credits:
By Ruth Lawson. Otago Polytechnic. The original uploader was Sunshineconnelly at English Wikibooks – Transferred from en.wikibooks to Commons by Adrignola using CommonsHelper. CC BY 3.0
Despite the advancement of modern dog training, there are still countless dog owners and trainers who rely on using aversive dog training methods. Even veterinarians use them at times. Not too long ago, a client reported to me that her German shepherd puppy was barking at the vet when the vet decided to give the puppy an alpha roll correction because (in his belief) the puppy was trying to challenge him and deserved a lesson in respect. Still as of today, this angers me because the pup was only taught to fear vet offices and vets and being touched. It’s unfortunate that these training methods are still popular today, but it’s not surprising considering that they’re still being promulgated by television shows along with the belief that these methods are more effective.
Dog wearing a shock collar
What are Aversive Dog Training Methods?
So what exactly is aversive dog training? Let’s take a closer look into the word aversive, what does it mean? Webster dictionary defines it as “tending to avoid or causing avoidance of a noxious or punishing stimulus.”
Wikipedia talks about aversive in psychological terms:
“Aversives are unpleasant stimuli that induce changes in behavior through punishment; by applying an aversive immediately following a behavior, the likelihood of the behavior occurring in the future is reduced.Aversives can vary from being slightly unpleasant or irritating (such as a disliked color) to physically damaging. It is not the level of unpleasantness, but rather the effectiveness the unpleasant event has on changing behavior that defines the aversive.”
How are aversives applied in dog training? Here are a few examples.
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By positive punishment, by adding an unpleasant stimulus when the undesired behavior occurs. (Example: a dog is startled with a spray of water the moment he jumps on a person. Result: The behavior of jumping should reduce and stop if the dog hates water enough–by the way, this is often how dogs become water phobic, then one wonders why they dread baths and don’t want anything to do with water)
By negative punishment, by removing a pleasant stimulus when the undesired behavior occurs (Example: a dog is punished by removing access to other dogs –timeout- the moment the dog plays rough. Result: the behavior of playing rough should reduce and stop if the dog is socially motivated )
By negative reinforcement, by removing an unpleasant stimulus when the desired behavior occurs (Example: a dog is continuously shocked and the delivery of shock is only removed once the dog performs the desired behavior of coming to the dog owner. Result: with time, the chances for a dog not coming when called should reduce since the dog should be more eager to comply to avoid the shock. In this case, the dog is reinforced by removing shock, but there’s also an element of punishment at play since the dog is repeatedly shocked using the continuous shock feature for not coming when called. For more on this read training a dog to come with a shock collar. )
” Negative reinforcement requires that an aversive first be applied or threatened in order for it to be removed.”~ Melissa Alexander
The Individual Factor
As seen, the aversive methods described above vary quite greatly in intensity. They go from denying social access through a time-out to continuous shocks until the dog complies to come when called.
Therefore, as Wikipedia mentioned, the term aversive doesn’t necessarily need to be associated with pain. It can range from a mild discomfort from being exposed to some unpleasant social situation (a child being embarrassed in front of the class for forgetting to turn in homework) to withdrawal from attaining something desired (telling a child he can’t stay in line for ice-cream until he stops whining).
One important consideration is keeping into consideration the individual dog. The dog is ultimately who decides what’s aversive. Using a cookie-cutter approach in training methods without considering individuality, may lead to problems, big problems too. For instance, many dog trainers use negative punishment under the form of time-outs when dogs misbehave, but can you imagine how aversive a time-out can be to a dog suffering from separation anxiety?
Even what we perceive as “dog friendly” training methods can turn out not being not as dog friendly as we think if we “listen to” the individual dog. This can be shocking, but let me give an example. Not too long ago, we had a very sensitive dog over for boarding. The owner said she always dreamed that her dog learned a few basic cues such as sit and down. She took her dog previously to classes and her dog wasn’t able to learn anything. Nothing. And yes, the trainers were skilled and invested in using positive reinforcement.
Turned out, upon closer evaluation, this dog didn’t want anything to do with hands near her face. So putting a cookie (no matter how great it smelled) near her nose to guide her into a sit was highly aversive to her. Any hand movement caused her to close up and withdraw inhibiting her from learning. Did she learn to sit and lie down? You bet, and she even turned out to be an enthusiastic learner which the owner was ecstatic about, but we had to use a different training method known as “capturing “ for all that.
Now, this doesn’t mean that aversive dog training doesn’t work. To the contrary, done correctly aversive dog training methods can be effective. Do these methods work? Yes, when punishment is delivered at right time, at the right level of intensity and contingent on the problem behavior, it can be very effective but…, and this is a big BUT, is it worth it?
” Punishment is like carpet bombing. The behavior you wanted to target gets hit but so can a huge portion of the dog‘s whole repertoire.”~ Jean Donaldson
Effects of Aversive Dog Training Methods
One main issue about aversive dog training methods is the problematic fall-out; basically, side effects that can be far worse than the original problem that owners and trainers were trying to correct. These effects are more likely to happen with the more intense versions rather than the minimally aversive ones.
Back to the German shepherd puppy, sure, the pup stopped barking when once pushed to the floor by the vet, but what happened next? What did the puppy really learn? Dogs learn by consequences but also by association, so likely, the pup learned that vet offices are scary places and vets are not to be trusted.
But perhaps even most concerning, the pup likely learned that since his warning bark to “please stay away, I am not comfortable around you,” was suppressed, he had to rely on a more effective strategy to protect himself from somebody cornering him and putting his hands on him next time. And not surprisingly, that’s what the client was actually seeing me for that day. This German shepherd pup was nipping at hands and had a high reluctance to being handled and touched. Of course, it didn’t help that the owner continued applying the training advice from the vet, that “sound advice” to alpha roll the pup any time he engaged in undesired behaviors. But this is only one fallout out of 13 (and likely more) that can derive from the use of aversive dog training methods.
13 Negative Effects of Aversive Dog Training
1 ) Aversive dog training methods can be risky, especially when applying methods that can induce defensiveness from the dog. A dog who is being alpha rolled may (rightfully so!) decide not to take it one day, as the pup described above, and may bite as soon as he sees the hands moving towards him.
If the vet performed the alpha roll instead of on a puppy, on an 85 pound, 3-year old German shepherd he could have been severely injured.
Therefore, as seen with my client’s puppy, aversive training methods potentially evoke defensive behaviors to surface that often were non-existent if such methods weren’t utilized in the first place!
Why does the popular National Geographic show featuring scruff shakes and alpha rolls feature a big disclaimer: “do not try this at home”? Because of these risks. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, warns about these risks explaining how people recommending these techniques are taking a liability risk.
Did you know? According to a study conducted by Meghan Herron, DVM, DACVB, Frances Shofer, DVM and Ilana Reisner, DVM, DACVB, of the Matthew Ryan Veterinary Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania, it was found that when dog owners resorted to harsh confrontational techniques, dogs responded with aggression.
More precisely, just to get an idea: 43 percent of dogs responded with aggression when being hit or kicked, 39 percent reacted to an alpha roll, 38 percent responded aggressively to having an owner grab their mouth and take out an object forcefully and 26% percent responded defensively when given a scruff shake.
2) Aversive dog training methods can be potentially reinforcing to the person applying them. If a person is frustrated by a dog who is repeatedly jumping, he or she may feel better when he pinches the dog’s paw and the dog stops jumping and yelps in surprise or pain. This circle of reinforcement is what causes the person applying such methods to want to use them more and more, even possibly as the first line treatment of choice. It’s what makes people swear on the effectiveness of aversive methods and be reluctant to want to try other methods. It’s also sadly what causes some to want to engage in more and more severe forms when they milder ones may no longer be working, initiating a vicious cycle that’s abuse or very close to it.
3) The application of aversive dog training methods have a tendency for generating emotional response such as fear and anxiety. Through conditioning, dogs tend to form associations with the unpleasant happening. As in the case of my client, it would not be surprising if her German shepherd would develop fear or a general dislike of the vet’s office and veterinarians in general or just being approached by a stranger.
“Positive reinforcement should be the first line of teaching, training and behavior change program considered, and should be applied consistently. Positive reinforcement is associated with the lowest incidence of aggression, attention seeking, and avoidance/fear in learners.” ~Association of Professional Dog Trainers
4) On top of forming negative associations with certain stimuli or events, through a phenomenon known as “generalization”dogs may generalize their anxiety to other similar stimuli or events. For instance, a dog may be fearful of a broom because a person in the past used it to scare off the dog but then may expand his fear to people walking with canes or people mopping the floor.
“Even when punishment seems mild, in order to be effective it often must elicit a strong fear response, and this fear response can generalize to things that sound or look similar to the punishment”~American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior
5) Once aversive training methods allow fear to establish and put roots, these responses become difficult to eradicate and this is because dogs (and generally all living creatures) have an instinct to act defensively or avoid stimuli or events that are perceived as frightening.
6) When a dog is subjected to training methods based on aversion and intimidation, their cognitive functions can potentially shut down and this may interfere with their ability to learn.
7) When a dog learns to rely on defensive behaviors, such behaviors quickly become part of a dog’s new behavior repertoire because these behaviors are often reinforcing. If the German shepherd tries to bite hands that are moving towards him and the person quickly withdraws his hands, the snapping at the hands behavior is reinforced and will become more difficult to eradicate. Of course, this problem would be non-existent if aversive based methods were not employed in the first place.
8) Aversion-based methods contribute to stress and on top of developing defensive behaviors, dogs may develop escape behaviors and displacement behaviors such as repeated paw licking and scratching.
9) Aversive training methods are not guaranteed to work. If a dog’s paw is pinched when he jumps on the owner, not necessarily this will discourage further jumping, if the joy of greeting the owner supersedes the temporary pinch. This is why many dog owners are frustrated that their dogs still pull on the leash despite being choked by a collar holding them back. The reward of sniffing a bush or greeting another dog may supersede the temporary pain or discomfort.
10) If punishment is not always contingent upon the undesired behavior, the dog has the opportunity to rehearse the undesired behavior without consequence, which means the undesired behavior will continue to surface and even become more troublesome since the behavior is put on a variable schedule (sometimes it’s punished, sometimes it’s not) which is the schedule that triggers addiction (just as it happens with people gambling at Vegas.)
11) When an unwanted behavior is suppressed through aversive dog training methods, it creates a void that will likely be filled with other problem behaviors. For example, if a bored dog is punished for chewing in the yard, he’ll likely start digging and barking because he’s not provided an outlet for his needs for mental stimulation.
“Punishment can suppress aggressive and fearful behavior when used effectively, but it may not change the underlying cause of the behavior. “~American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior
12) When using aversive dog training methods, there are risks that the dog starts associating punishment with the person’s presence. If a person smacks a puppy with a newspaper for urinating on the carpet, such punishment will not teach the puppy to go to the door next time, but rather to urinate under the sofa out of the owner’s view. This because the puppy has learned to associate punishment with the person’s presence.
““Receiving shocks is painful experience to the dogs, and the S-dogs (the dogs who received shock) evidently have learned the presence of their owner (or his commands) announces the reception of shocks even outside the normal training context.”~Matthijs B.H. Schilder a,b,∗, Joanne A.M. van der Borg
13) Last but not least, aversive based training can inhibit dogs from offering new behaviors as it may happen with dogs who become tentative in picking up objects. If a puppy is consistently punished for picking up objects with his mouth such as the remote control or shoes, the puppy soon learns that it’s bad to pick up anything with their mouths. This can create great difficulties in the future when training the dog to retrieve an object. A better option with no negative side effects? Teach the trade game.
Alternative to Aversive Dog Training Methods
“But I have been using these methods for years, they have worked for me, why should I ditch them?” This is often a self-defense mechanism due to fear of something new, it’s the (normal) resistance associated with the hesitancy of embracing an unexplored world.
It’s often comforting to stick to past methods, just as it was comforting in the past for teachers to have all children use the right hand because that was the “right side.” Long time lefty here who survived the right-hand movement, thanks to a stubborn mom!
Most of all, the resistance is because of lack of awareness of alternatives to effective non-aversive methods.”If I don’t use aversives what is left that can equally effective?” Knowledge is ultimately power.
There are plenty of alternative methods and more and more trainers, behavior consultants and veterinarians are embracing them. They are effective, most are minimally aversive, but never forget the golden rule of considering the individual dog.
Management, sure this is not actual active training, but it prevents rehearsal of problem behaviors
The use of prompts helps the dog to perform desired behaviors
Antecedent arrangements can be incorporated so to help dogs make good choices
Positive reinforcement strengthens desired behaviors and increases the chances of them repeating
Differential reinforcement can be used to specifically reinforce desired behavior and extinguish the undesirable
Desensitization with counterconditioning work great for behavior modification
Negative punishment used to stop unwanted behaviors by removing access to things the dog likes.
Extinction helps extinguish problem behaviors because they no longer gain reinforcement
Learn how to implement Leslie McDevitt’s LAT or Jean Donaldson’s Open Bar, Closed Bar
Having a hard time? Don’t be too quick to move on to using aversive methods! Ask around, many trainers will be willing to help out, ask what methods they use or get creative and invent your own methods and give them a try, you might come up with something powerful!
As seen, there are plenty of better options that do not involve, pain, fear and intimidation! Why rush up on using aversive training methods when there are many options you can try first? You’ll be surprised how you may attain results and often quickly, without the need to ever use shock, pain and intimidation.
References:
Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviors Meghan E. Herron, Frances S. Shofer, Ilana R. Reisner, Department of Clinical Studies, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, 3900 Delancey Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104-6010, USA
American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, The Use of Punishment for Behavior Modification in Animals, retrieved from the web on Novermber 6th, 2016
Emily J. Blackwell, Caroline Twells, Anne Seawright, Rachel A. Casey, The relationship between training methods and the occurrence of behavior problems, as reported by owners, in a population of domestic dogs, Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research, Volume 3, Issue 5, September–October 2008, Pages 207-217
Schalke, E., Stichnoth, J. and Jones-Baade, R. (2005) Stress symptoms caused by the use of electric training collars on dogs (Canis Familiaris) in everyday life situations.
Training Dogs With the Help of the Shock Collar: short and long term behavioural effects(Schilder, van der Borg) Applied Animal Behaviour Science 85 (2004) 319–334
Photo Credits:
Michael Gil, Discipline!, No Dogs were harmed in the taking of this picture! CCBY2.0
Let’s face it: when dogs keep repeatedly licking their front legs a whole lot, it can get annoying for owners who must listen to the incessant licking sound. Some dogs lick their front legs when coming home from a walk or right after eating dinner, and for some other dogs, paw licking may be part of their bed-time routine, but then you have dogs constantly licking those front paws as if dealing with a hard-to-get-rid-of habit almost as addicting as the smoking or gambling seen in humans. In light-coated dogs, constant licking of the front legs can lead to unsightly rusty stains courtesy of their saliva. What’s up with these dogs? Today we’ll be discovering more about what potentially causes dogs to lick their front legs so much, both from a physical and mental standpoint.
A Matter of Allergies
When you think allergies, you think about sneezing, itchy noses and red eyes, but in dogs allergies develop differently. So move over that box of Kleenex and instead, plan to book up a trip to the vet.
Allergies in dogs translate into hair loss, ear infections, skin inflammation and irritation with its associated itchiness, and.. you guessed it, constant paw licking and chewing.
What are dogs allergic to? As in humans, the allergies may be seasonal involving exposure to pollen and other airborne triggers such as molds, fungi, dust or storage mites. In other cases, the paw licking may stem from direct contact with irritants, things your dog walks on such as fresh-cut grass, awns and products used on carpets and yards.
Many times, the issue of excessive paw licking in dogs is a year-round ordeal. Hypersensitivity or adverse reactions to certain components of your dog’s food may play a role in making your dog’s feet constantly itchy, and yes, these sensitivities may develop after many months or years of eating the same foods.
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Excessive licking due to exposure to allergens, contact with irritants and food sensitivities may therefore lead to annoying itch and lick cycles that could cause annoying foot inflammation (canine pododermatitis) secondary problems such as bacterial and yeast infections of the skin.
A Painful Disorder
When dogs sense pain, they react differently from humans and their instinct may drive them to lick, lick and lick.
At times, the answer may be right in front of you if Rover allows you to do a thorough inspection of his dog’s front paws and legs. There may be a splinter somewhere embedded in the foot, a broken nail or perhaps a bug bite.
Pinpointing the source of the problem though is not always so straightforward and at times it can be quite challenging, which is why it’s best to see the vet for some good, old diagnostics.
When the issue is not readily recognizable, there are chances that excessive paw licking in dogs may be attributed to arthritis, joint pain, a fractured toe or sometimes pain from other areas of the dog’s body. The pain need not to be necessarily directly coming from the dog’s paws and legs.
For instance, pain in the vertebrae may travel down to a dog’s front leg, causing something known as “nerve root signature.”
At other times, the pain may be internal or in an area hard to reach and the dog compensates by licking his paws.
The Mental Factor
At times, paw licking can be triggered by boredom. With no bones or toys to chew on and with his needs for exercise and mental stimulation not being met, Rover adjusts with what’s readily available and can keep him occupied for minutes on end: his front paws and legs!
It may just casually happen one day that a bored dog discovers this form of entertainment and soon paw licking becomes his default behavior for when he has nothing better to do.
At other times, paw licking may become a coping mechanism for when the dog feels stressed, anxious or frustrated.
Dogs who are socially deprived for a good part of the day, may end up craving attention from their owners when they come home from work, and if they don’t receive their slice of attention, these dogs will do anything to get it.
Attentive dogs who crave attention may soon learn that paw licking causes owners to look at him, talk to him (what’s up Buddy, why are you licking your paws so much?) and this can be reinforcing. And even attention of the negative type will do for an attention-deprived Fido, such as the owner saying in a derogatory tone of voice “Hey, stop licking your paws once and for all, dude, it’s driving me nuts!”
Getting Out of Hand
Sometimes excessive paw licking in dogs can get quite out of hand and may lead to a compulsive disorder. The paw licking may start innocently as a way of coping with an allergy, arthritis or a mental state of boredom, anxiety or frustration, and soon the dog becomes addicted to it. This repeated paw licking may then lead to what’s known as acral lick dermatitis (ALD), also known as an acral lick granuloma.
Basically, what happens is that the dog’s repeated licking causes erosion of superficial layers of the dog’s skin and infection, which leads to a vicious cycle of more licking. This cycle is possibly exacerbated by the fact that damaged local cells or nerves release endorphins, the body’s natural painkillers which provide a “high” and leads to further licking, explains veterinary dermatologist Ian B. Spiegel.
The areas most affected are the front and top portions of the dog’s legs, respectively the carpus, metacarpus, tarsus, or metatarsus.
Did you know? The unsightly stains found on the paws and legs of light -coat colored dogs is due to excessive licking because of porphyrin pigments found in a dog’s saliva.
Course of Action
As seen, paw licking in dogs is something to monitor carefully. It could just be a dog’s way of relaxing before going to bed or just a part of grooming, but if it’s happening more than usual or your dog seems to lick and chew his front legs with intensity and it isn’t easy to interrupt, it’s something worthy of mentioning to a vet.
Allergies, a foreign item stuck to the paws or the onset or arthritis are a few possibilities. Compulsive disorders may require special drugs along with behavior modification.
If your dog gets a clean bill of health, then it’s time to consider whether your dog needs a more relaxing environment or perhaps needs more exercise and mental stimulation to keep occupied. It could be it just boils down to giving your dog a job to do and that job must encompass something other than constantly licking his front paws over and over.
“A behavior that is difficult to interrupt may be more likely to be caused by a medical condition that causes distress than is a behavior that is easily interrupted. However, a true compulsive disorder that has been present for months or years may also be difficult to interrupt.”~Valerie V. Tynes
Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is licking excessively his front legs, please see your vet.
References:
DVM360, Just Ask the Expert: How do you combat acral lick dermatitis, by Ian B. Spiegel, VMD, MHS, DACVD, retrieved from the web on November 5th, 2016.
Photo Credits:
Wikipedia, Canine lick granuloma / acral lick dermatitis; self-inflicted as an obsessive-compulsive self-destructive behavior,self – Own work CC BY-SA 3.0
We chatter our teeth and shiver when we’re cold, but when it comes to dogs, they may rely on different ways to stay warm. While we bundle up with extra layers of clothing, scarves and mittens, dogs must rely on their own “built-in” features along with some several other fascinating mechanisms Mother Nature has provided them with. In a past article we looked at ways dogs cool down, in this article instead, we will be discovering several fascinating ways dogs keep themselves warm.
Warm Double Coats
What’s the purpose of a double coat? It’s meant to keep ourselves toasty! says Rover. Just like our warm winter jackets, many dogs are protected from the rigors of the winter courtesy of their double coats.
A dog’s undercoat consists of short and cotton-like hairs meant to insulate and prevent loss of body heat, while the top coat consists of stiff, moisture-repellent guard hairs meant to protect from the winter elements.
Several dog breeds have double coats and these include German shepherds, collies, sheepdogs, corgis, Beaucerons, Belgian malinois, Belgian tervurens, briards, Labrador and golden retreivers just to name a few.
More notoriously, spitz-type dogs are known for their double coats and include Siberian huskies, Samoyeds, Pomeranians, Akitas, Alaskan malamutes, chow chows, keeshonds, Shiba Inus, Norwegain elkhounds and Norwegian lundehunds.
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“The thick undercoat of the Northern Breeds provides loft, like a fuzzy mohair sweater, and keeps the warmth next to the animal rather than allowing it to escape.”~ Dr. Susan Whiton
The Power of Piloerection
On top of being equipped with warm coats, dogs have the ability to raise the hairs on their neck, back and tail. The term for this feature is piloerectionand it works in a similar fashion as goose bumps in humans.
Each dog hair is equipped with a hair follicle which in turn is attached to special muscles that are known as “arrector pili.” When a dog is in a normal, relaxed state, his hair follicles will stay at a 30 to 60 degree angle compared to the skin. Let the arrector pili muscles contract though and watch those hairs literally stand up, explains Karen L. Campbell, a board-certified veterinarian specializing in internal medicine and dermatology in the book “The Pet Lover’s Guide to Cat and Dog Skin Diseases.”
When us humans get cold, we develop goosebumps, while in dogs, if it’s very cold, the contraction of the arrector pili muscles cause piloerection. The raised hairs in this case are meant to trap air and create a layer of insulation.
“A dog’s hair will stand on end when he is very, very cold… When the hair stands up, an insulating layer of air gets trapped between hair shafts, so the cold air cannot get so close to the skin. It works like a down jacket.” Dr. Nicholas Dodman
Paw Heating System
Ever wondered how dogs keep their paws from freezing? Let’s think about it. As the weather gets colder, we put on thick socks and boots, while our dogs walk completely barefoot on wet and sometimes even icy surfaces, how do they manage to do that?
In this case, we must thank the dog’s almighty paws. Blessed with tough padding made of layers of insulating fat and connective tissue, a dog’s paws are also equipped with an impressive number of blood vessels. This means greater circulation which helps prevent those paws from getting frozen.
Interestingly, a study conducted by scientists at Tokyo’s Yamazaki Gakuen University found that the arteries responsible for providing blood to a dog’s paw pads have several networks of tiny veins nearby (venules). The proximity of arteries and veins results in heat exchange, acting as a counter-current heat exchanger. This artery and vein heat circulation system seems to suggest that the ancestors of the domestic dog may have originated in a cold climate.
“It is well known that penguins in the Antarctic have a counter current heat exchange system in their wings and legs to prevent heat dissipation and keep the body warm. When we found that dogs also have such an excellent system in their paws, we were excited.”~Dr Hiroyoshi Ninomiya.
Curling Like a Ball
When dogs are cold, they instinctively seem to know that certain sleeping positions are better. Sleeping in a curled up position, tight like a ball, is a dog’s way to conserve heat.
By sleeping this way, the dog’s body surface is made as small as possible and the loss of heat is minimized.
If it’s very cold, dogs will sleep with their tails covering their noses, an astute strategy to maximize their ability to stay warm. A bushy tail helps protect the dog’s eyes, nose, muzzle and front legs from cold, and on top of that, it acts like a filter, allowing a dog to breath in pre-heated air. How cool is that?
Did you know? Some dogs in very cold climates may utilize what’s known as “social thermal regulation.” According to the book “K9 Complete Care: A Manual for Physically and Mentally Healthy Working Dogs”by Resi Gerritsen, Ruud Haak, arctic explorers mentioned how dogs in Southern Greenland slept very close to each other near their homes so to keep warm and out of the wind.
Shivering to Warm Up
Not all dogs are blessed with warm double coats, and those who lack it, are more likely to get cold.
Small, short-haired dog breeds are in particular predisposed to chilling as they tend to lose their body heat quite rapidly.
It’s not unusual to see dachshunds and Chihuahuas seek out the warmest areas of the house, burying themselves under blankets or staying rights next to the fireplace in order to stay warm.
Trembling is something that dogs just like humans do so to generate heat and raise body temperature, explains Erich Barchas, a veterinarian in San Francisco.
If your dog is shivering though and it is not cold, consider evaluating the underlying cause, as shivering in dogs can also be seen in dogs who are scared, in pain, sick or experiencing some health problem.
A Word of Caution
Sure, many dogs have the ability to cope in cold weather, and if they are new to cold, they can acclimate fairly quickly, given the chance. However, this does not mean that our dogs are not immune from the effects of prolonged exposure to bitter cold. Just like us, dogs can get frostbite, and suffer other consequence of cold.
Not all dogs experience cold in the same way, and some dogs are definitely at a disadvantage. Small dogs, short-haired dogs, short dogs who are lower to the ground, older dogs, dogs with certain medical conditions, skinny dogs and young puppies may not be able to regulate their temperatures well and may need our intervention to be protected from the dangers of winter weather.
“In general, there are three kinds of dogs who benefit from the insulation provided by a sweater or coat, as well as the protection afforded by life as a pampered house pet: Small dogs, dogs who are elderly, chronically ill or both, Greyhounds, Whippets and dogs of a similar thin body type, especially those with short fur. ~Dr. Marty Becker
Let’s face it: sometimes dogs can act quite weird, and some of the oddest behaviors happen around the food bowl. Some dogs act scared of the food bowl, others will move the food bowl around and some others will nitpick a mouthful of kibble and then eat it off the floor. What’s up Rover? As with everything revolving around dog behavior, it’s difficult to find a black and white explanation for certain behaviors and we can only make assumptions, but by discovering a bit more about a dog’s eating habits, and through some trial and error attempts, we can perhaps get a tab bit closer to understanding the real potential cause for some of these dog behavior quirks.
1) Dogs Scared of Metal Food Bowls
With more and more dog owners worried about the health effects of BPA in plastic and allergies, many are switching over to metal bowls for their dogs.
Has your dog been fine with a plastic food bowl and now that you got him a stainless steel metal bowl, he’s acting scared of it? You might feel better knowing that you are not alone.
There are countless dogs scared of metal food bowls. By watching your dog and doing some troubleshooting, you might be able to help him overcome his fear of the metal bowl.
For instance, is your dog wearing his collar and tags? Some dogs are afraid or bothered by the repeated metallic noises that occur when your dog’s metal tags hit the metal food bowl.
Does your dog back away from the food bowl when he moves it upon eating? Some dogs do not like the fact that the food bowl moves and the metal ones can be noisier when moved compared to a plastic bowl.
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And then there are some dogs who seem to be intimidated by their reflections seen on the metal as they eat.
What to do: you can try removing your dog’s collar when he eats so that those tags will stop producing that annoying metallic noise. Don’t expect though for your dog’s fears to magically stop the moment the collar is off. Your dog may still be a bit wary the first times as the memory of those metallic noises stick for a while. With time though, he should be able to relax once those memories start to fade.
What about dogs who are not wearing tags when they eat? If your dog doesn’t like the metal because of its feel or the reflections on it, you can try laying a washcloth or paper towel over the bowl and place his food on that. Eventually, then you can gradually uncover more and more of the bowl.
If your dog is scared of the bowl moving around, you can make it more stable using Velcro, or investing in products meant to keep that dog bowl more stable. If you still have his old plastic bowl and your dog doesn’t have allergies to plastic, you can try placing your new metal bowl right inside it if it fits. This should make the food bowl heavier so it moves less around while giving back a sense of familiarity.
2) Dogs Who Rather Eat on the Floor than Out of the Bowl
Ready for take-out?
Does your dog prefer “canine take out,” moving his food to the floor rather than eating directly from the bowl? Well, who can blame them? Dogs weren’t really born to eat out of food bowls, it’s one of those things that are part of domestication and that dogs may still feel a bit odd about.
After all, what are food bowls all about? They’re crafted for humans who want their homes to stay tidy. So to prevent dogs from spreading their dinner all over the floor, we let dogs eat straight from a bowl like humans do.
However, not all dogs are happy about this and some may revert to their instinct to want to eat straight off the floor, so they’ll take a mouthful of kibble and eat it away from the bowl.
Often, it’s a matter of not liking certain features of the food bowl. Perhaps the bowl moves too much, makes noise or dogs are annoyed by the reflections they see when they eat when using a metal bowl.
Some dogs may be put off eating from their bowl if it gives off odors they do not like such as soap residue. Some other dogs may not be comfortable eating nearby other dogs or noisy areas so they’ll quickly grab a mouthful and then consume it in a more quiet place. This can likely be behavior reminiscent of the old days when dogs would carry off meat or bones from a kill so to eat them in peace or save for later.
What to do: if your dog is bothered by his tags, try removing your dog’s collar just when he eats so that those tags will stop producing that annoying metallic noise. Chances are, without his tags he may eventually feel more comfortable eating directly from the bowl.
If there are other dogs nearby or you feed in a high-traffic area, try feeding your dog in a more quiet place. Feeding in a crate or small room can prevent, or at least minimize, the chances for making a mess. For dogs who dislike reflections, an option is to cover the bowl with a clean towel and lay food on it, and for dog who dislike the fact that the food bowl moves, investing in a non-skid bowl may be an option.
For desperate cases, you can try feeding from a smaller bowl (or a larger one if your dog dislikes feeling his whiskers touch the bowl) or a flat dish or you can try adding something tasty to the contents of the bowl that cannot be eaten away, such as a bit of low sodium chicken broth or some diluted meat-based baby food with no onion or garlic added.
“If there are other dogs in the house, separate them at feeding time to allow for privacy, so there’s no threat of competition — either real or imagined.”~Dr. Julie Albright-Keck
Ready for food bowl delivery?
3) Dogs Who Move The Food Bowl Around
Does your dog take your food bowl on a tour of the house every time it’s feeding time? Have you ever found yourself holding your dog’s food bowl still by holding it with your foot? Again, you’re not alone. Many dog engage in this behavior, especially if the food bowl is the type that allows this behavior. We like to call these dogs the “delivery dogs” who like to “deliver” their bowls all around the house.
First off, consider that any behavior that involves food is potentially reinforcing. In other words, whatever your dog does before getting his food will likely repeat in the future. It’s just the nature of things.
Just as your dog will sit more and more if you give him food after he sits, your dog will learn to move the food bowl around if that helps him get food. In simple words, his behavior of pushing the bowl around is rewarded.
Again, dogs don’t do this to upset their owners, it’s just one of those things that happen. Your dog gives the food bowl a little nudge when food is stuck in the corner of the bowl? Next time he’ll likely use that strategy again and again.
What to do: you have several choices to curb this behavior. There are several non-skid mats you can use that will keeps the bowl steady or you can invest in a bowl that has a non-skid silicone bottom. Some dog owners have success using a food dish stand.
Ready for treasure hunt?
4) Dogs Who Tip Their Food Bowl Over
Some dog owners can be quite annoyed by their dog’s behavior of tipping over the food bowl. Why would dogs tip over their food bowl? Again, we must be reminded that dogs are not humans, so they have reason to not adhere to our standards of keeping the house tidy by keeping food enclosed in bowls.
Some dogs seem to do it just for the fun of it. The food scatters everywhere and they get to go on a treasure hunt, which may satisfy their need to forage. Think of it as a fun doggy buffet!
Some other dogs might not like their food bowl for several reasons, as explained above such as its smell, size, material or the noise produced when the collar tags clash against it when eating.
Some dogs may also find it annoying if their whiskers repeatedly touch the bowl while they’re eating.
What to do: if your dog tips his food bowl over, you are not alone. Indeed, marketers have astutely invented heavy food bowls and non-tip food bowls for frustrated dog owners. Some dog owners have success using a food dish stand.
For dogs who seem to have fun with their “doggy buffets,” you may instead want to try one of those food bowls that offer an interactive food puzzle. Win win!
If your dog is tipping the food bowl over and not eating as he usually does, suspect a medical problem or consider whether the food may have gone rancid. Perhaps it’s time to try another brand. If the behavior is unusual, it might be worthy listening to your dog: when the infamous 2007 pet food recalls occurred, several dog owners reported that their dogs started tipping over their food bowls and going on a food strike out of the blue!
Consider Medical Problems
If your dog has always been eating from the food bowl with no problems, and now he’s suddenly scared of it or acting weird, consider that at times there may be an underlying medical problem.
Your dog may have a sore on his chin that hurts when the touches the food bowl or perhaps he has dental pain and has started to associate it with eating from the bowl.
Sometimes dogs with neck problems will be reluctant to lower their head to eat, which can be interpreted as a dog refusing to eat from a food bowl.
Vision problems may also be a culprit for weird dog behaviors around food bowls.
And, as mentioned, with dogs who tip their food bowl over, don’t just rush to assume they’re acting finicky, it could be they may be nauseous or have a loss of appetite, especially if they end up not eating their food.
Canine terminology is quite fascinating because every little area of specialty has crafted its own terms and discovering them can be quite intriguing, especially when people add that special creative touch. Among the world of gun dogs and hunters, the term “steady to wing and shot” is quite popular, but what exactly does it mean? No, there’s no need to go joining your local hunting association or start asking around, as today we’ll be discovering what “steady to wing and shot” truly means.
Gun Dog Training
In order to understand the definition of “steady to wing and shot” it’s helpful to first learn a bit more about gun dogs and the training these dogs undergo.
Gun dogs are dogs that are used to hunt different types of game, but most of them encompass dogs trained to hunt upland game birds. Gun dogs include retrievers, flushing spaniels and pointing breeds, and each of these dogs are trained for specific tasks.
In particular, dogs used to hunt upland birds are the ones that are often required to remain “steady to wing and shot. ”
Ready, Set, Steady!
When a bird is spotted, it’s imperative that the dog doesn’t interfere as the hunter aims and shoots at the bird. “Steady to wing and shot” simply means that the dog stays immobile when a bird rises (wing) and when the gun is fired (shot).
In more advanced training, the dog is require to be “steady to wing, shot and fall”, which means that the dog, on top of holding steady when the bird is flushed and shot, should also hold steady when the bird falls to the ground. The dog is then released by the hunter and the bird is then retrieved.
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It’s important to recognize that these behaviors are not natural for the dog as a dog’s instinct is to chase their prey, therefore it takes some time for a gun dog to attain this level of impulse control. Generally, this ability comes with maturity and experience. Being able to steady to wing and shot is something that is required almost in all field trials.
Training Dog to Steady to Wing and Shot: A Matter of Safety
Why is there a need for a gun dog to be “steady to wing and shot?” It’s for the most part a matter of safety.
It would be quite horrifying for a hunter to be put into the position of risking shooting his four-legged hunting partner as he runs ahead the moment the birds are flushed, remarks Mike Spies, in the blog “Living with Bird Dogs.”
On top of that, if a dog is hunting birds that form small flocks such as quails, Hungarians and sharp-tailed grouse, chasing them the moment they flush, would end up creating chaos, further points out Spies.
An Alternate View
Not all hunters though think it is essential to train a dog to steady to wing and shot. Indeed, steadiness in a gun dog is subject to controversy and there are different views on this depending on what hunter you ask.
Sure, having a dog trained to “steady to wing and shot” comes extra handy, especially when hanging out with hunters whose skills you do not trust, but having a dog who rushes ahead to retrieve rather than holding steady offers an advantage: being closer to any downed or crippled birds, which increases the retrieval rate, explains David Gowdey, author of the book “The German Shorthaired Pointer: a Hunter’s Guide.”
On the other hand, Richard D. Weaver author of the book “Training Your Pointing Dog for Hunting and Home” explains that in his over 35 years experience in the field, he has found that a steady dog is actually better as he keeps his focus on the bird and watches it fall. Watching the bird fall is easier if a dog is stationary versus a dog who is running. Weaver further claims that failure to train a dog to steady wing and shot is due to laziness or lack of know-how…So there you have it, two different views on training hunting dogs.
How to Train Dog to Steady to Wing-Shot-Fall with the Clicker
References:
The German Shorthaired Pointer: a Hunter’s Guide, by David Mark Gowdey, Wide Sky Press (December 9, 2008)
Training Your Pointing Dog for Hunting and Home By Richard D. Weaver, Stackpole Books (September 1, 2007)
Photo Credits:
Detail of the painting “The Spanish Pointer” by John Buckler, public domain{{PD-1923}
English Pointer, Stonehenge (John Henry Walsh) – The Dog in Health and Disease, public domain{{PD-1923}}
The Saint Bernard dog breed boasts the name of a saint, but have you ever wondered what’s the actual origin of the Saint Bernard dog name? When people think of the Saint Bernard, they often picture in their heads a massive drooling dog as seen in the movie Beethoven, or perhaps they have a Disneyland image of dogs wearing brandy or whiskey kegs around their necks. Discovering the origin of the Saint Bernard’s name requires a bit of historical digging, and some facts still remain shrouded in mystery. So today’s trivia question is:
What’s the Origin of the Saint Bernard’s Dog Name?
A) Saint Bernards are named this way because of their peaceful demeanor
B) Saint Bernards are named this way because they were used in the Saint Bernard hospice
C) Saint Bernards are named this way because they saved the life of Saint Bernard
D) Saint Bernards are named this way because their coat color matched the clothing of the monks of Saint Bernard
The correct answer is: drum roll, please…
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The correct answer is B: the Origin of the Saint Bernard’s Dog Name derived from their use in the Saint Bernard hospice.
Along the Saint Bernard Pass
Before becoming companions and guardians of our homes, Saint Bernard dogs were utilized for a very noble cause: saving human lives.
Indeed, these large dogs were used along what known as “the Saint Bernard Pass,” the third highest road pass in Switzerland, towering at an impressive 8,100 feet.
The Saint Bernard pass is a 49-mile route connecting Martigny, the French-speaking district found in the canton of Valais in Switzerland with Aosta, a bilingual region in the Italian Alps.
This ancient pass has a long history dating back to the Celtic and then Roman period. In the 1800, Napoleon used this route to pass through with his numerous troops and heavy artillery.
Nowadays, the Great St. Bernard Tunnel allows a more practical route, but the pass today still remains a historical landmark.
Home of the Hospice
At the highest point of the alpine pass, is the Great Saint Bernard Hospice which was founded around 1049. The founder of this hospice was Saint Bernard of Menthon, the archdeacon of Aosta who created it in hopes of helping distressed travelers along the treacherous path.
The ancestors of today’s Saint Bernard dog breed were originally bred between 1660 and 1670 using descendants of several mastiff-like Asiatic dogs that were brought over by the Romans.
These dogs were meant to be a guardian of the hospice, but then later turned out becoming handy mountain rescue dogs. Saint Bernard dogs indeed were strong enough to walk through deep snow drifts and had a good sense of smell to track travelers.
Once found, the stranded travelers were offered nourishment, clothing and shelter in the hospice by the monks.
Amazing Rescue Dogs
It is said that the Saint Bernard dogs, trained by the monks, were quite amazing in their work. They were sent in packs of two or three. There are reports of them digging to find buried bodies, but if the stranded travelers were found to be alive, one dog would provide warmth while another one wold head to the hospice for help.
According to the Smithsonian Institute Magazine, the rescue efforts were so organized that Napoleon was impressed considering that none of his 46,000 soldiers had lost their lives crossing the pass.
One Saint Bernard worthy of mentioning was the legendary Barry, who is credited for saving the lives of over 40 people. Barry is now displayed at the Natural History Museum in Berne, Switzerland, where he still can be admired today – as seen in the picture on the left.
An Insight into Changes
The Saint Bernard dogs used at the hospice were quite different than the Saint Bernard specimens seen today. Barry, who lived from 1800 to 1814, was considerable smaller than the modern Saint Bernard, weighing between 88 and 99 pounds, while today’s Saint Bernard dogs weigh between 180 and 290 pounds.
In the years between 1816 and 1818, the Saint Bernard pass was afflicted by severe thunderstorms and avalanches which caused the death of several rescue dogs. This caused Saint Bernard dogs to be on the brink of extinction.
Fortunately, two years later their numbers increased courtesy of crosses with similar dogs from the nearby valleys.
Around 1830, Newfoundland blood was added in hopes that the longer hair would help the rescue dogs better cope with the cold. The longer hair though came with a price: the formation of ice. Discouraged, the monks started giving their dogs away to people living in the surrounding valleys.
In 1855, innkeeper Heinrich Schumacher gained an interest in the dogs and started a breeding program using a studbook. It wasn’t until 1880 that the Swiss Kennel Club decided to officially recognize the breed and call it St. Bernard. And the rest is history…
Did you know? According to The Saint Bernard Club of New South Wales, it is widely agreedthat the actual use of small barrels of brandy attached to a Saint Bernard’s neck is a myth. Those barrels were not used in ancient times, but are rather a more recent trend. The belief originated from a painting: ‘Alpine Mastiffs Reanimating a Distressed Traveller’ by Sir Edwin Henry Landseer which portrayed a Saint Bernard carrying a wood barrel on the collar.
References:
Smithsonian Magazine, A Brief History of the St. Bernard Rescue Dog with barrels around their neck. According to legend, the brandy was used to warm the bodies of trapped people in avalanches or snow before help came.retrieved from the web on November 1st, 2016
The Saint Bernard Club of New South Wales, History of the Saint Bernard, retrieved from the web on November 1st, 2016
Photo Credits:
Painting by John Emms portraying St. Bernards as rescue dogs, Public Domain
Barry’s preserved body as currently on display at the Natural History Museum, Bern. by Zenit – Own work Stuffed body of Barry, famous rescue dog, CC BY-SA 3.0
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