Month: August 2016

Does My Dog Have Separation Anxiety?

by

 

Your dog whines, cries and chews on things when you are gone, but not always these signs are indicative that your dog is suffering from separation anxiety. For a good reason, behavior experts call separation anxiety the “great imitator” as it can mimic other medical and behavioral diagnosis. While in this article we will be pointing out other possible conditions that may look like separation anxiety, it’s important to understand that they are not intended to be perceived a diagnosis. Only by seeing your veterinarian or consulting with a behavior professional you can really find out the real answer to “does my dog have separation anxiety or not?”

does my dog have separation anxietyImportance of Differential Diagnosis

When a dog or person presents with symptoms, it’s important to obtain a correct diagnosis. In medicine, the practice of distinguishing a particular disease or condition from others is known as “differential diagnosis.” By collecting the patient’s medical history and perhaps running a battery of tests, doctors, through a process of elimination, can heighten the chances for a correct diagnosis while eliminating the most imminently life-threatening conditions.

A differential diagnosis procedure is important when it comes to behavior problems too. Dogs may show signs of a specific behavior problem, only to discover later that it was a totally different type of behavior issue or  even the result of a medical condition. No wonder the treatment protocol didn’t work! For this reason it’s important to consult with a professional who asks questions and uses a a systematic diagnostic method so to rule out other potential conditions causing similar signs.

idea tipDid you know? A possible cause of separation anxiety appearing so prevalent nowadays is the fact that due to the raised awareness of it, separation anxiety is misdiagnosed with some frequency, explains Pat Miller, dog trainer and owner of Peaceable Paws.

My Dog Has Accidents When I Leavedog window

A dog who eliminates when he is left alone may be a sign of separation anxiety, but it also can be something else. If you are away for a good part of the day, it could be your dog simply cannot hold it for so long. Young dogs may have not been completely house trained and older dogs may be suffering from an underlying medical condition. A dog who starts having accidents out of the blue can be highly indicative of a possible acute medical problem such as a bladder infection. It’s therefore important to evaluate several possibilities.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

For instance, dogs may eliminate when they are frightened or stressed which can happen when they are home alone and exposed to scary noises. There are also chances that dogs who use doggy doors may have been frightened by scary stimuli in the yard so they no longer feel safe and start eliminating in the house. Some dogs may urine mark when they have access to windows and watch other dogs walk by which makes them feel compelled to urine mark. And then you have dogs with a substrate preference, who eliminate in the home simply because they have access to their favorite  substrates (eg. carpet, tiles or hardwood floor.)

dog guilty lookMy Dog is Destructive When I am Not Home

A dog who is destructive when left alone may be a sign of separation anxiety, but it can also be something else. Young dogs are often left home alone with lots of energy to spare, so when boredom sets in, they may decide to entertain themselves by disassembling the remote, destroying pillows and even removing the “entrails” from the couch. If your dog has been punished in the past for chewing items or acting destructive, there are chances he has associated your presence with punishment, so he’ll therefore chew when you are out of the home. Stop punishing your dog and instead manage his environment and provide him with plenty of acceptable things to chew on. Also make sure to meet his needs for exercise and mental stimulation!

Dogs who are stressed, aggressive or scared, may also become destructive at times. These upset dogs may be trying to escape from scary noises and aggressive dogs may start chewing on window sills and doors if they are bothered by triggers such as people or dogs walking by the house, explains veterinary behaviorist Dr. Stepita. Sometimes, female dogs may dig at their bedding as a sign of false-pregnancy (pseudocyesis) following being spayed. In these dogs, hormonal supplementation can help them out, explains veterinarian Etienne Cote. 

” Dogs with territorial aggression vocalize in response to their triggers (people, dogs) passing by and approaching the house. They may even become destructive, chewing and scratching door frames or window sills during aggressive episodes”~ Dr. Stepita

My Dog Cries When I leave the Housedog anxiety

A dog who vocalizes when left home alone may be showing signs of separation anxiety, but it also can be something else. If your neighbors report your dog vocalizes a whole lot during the day while you’re out, there can be chances that he’s reacting to sounds such as door bells, trucks passing by, dog tags jingling, critters in the attic or people talking.

Many dogs will also vocalize when they hear other dogs barking, when they are protective of their perceived territory and when they feel fearful and stressed from some noises. Generalized Anxiety Disorder (GAD) may cause signs similar to separation anxiety. Also, it’s important to consider that senior dogs may vocalize more as they show signs of cognitive decline and some may start experiencing distress as they’re relying on their owners more and more for reassurance when their sight or hearing weakens.

“Senior pets may have greater difficult adapting to change and health problems may further contribute to the problem. As the pet’s anxiety and insecurities increase, the pet may seek out the owner’s attention. “~ Gary M. Landsberg et al.

lonely dogThe Importance of Context

Signs of separation anxiety in dogs tend to occur in a specific context: when the owner is getting ready to leave and when he’s gone. Generally, these signs tend to get increasingly more severe as the owner is leaving with the peak taking place shortly after the owner leaves. So if say a dog eliminates in the home when the owner leaves but also does so on the days the owner is at home, it’s likely that the elimination is not related to the owner’s absence.

Same goes with chewing. If the dog chews on more generalized items than door frames, windowsills and walls (as these are perceived by the dog as the barriers separating them from the owner), there are chances that the destructive behavior is not linked to separation anxiety but due to something else.

“Sep-anx dogs are often model dogs when they’re not left alone.”~Jean Donaldson

The Importance of Recordingdog window

So how can dog owners have a better idea on whether their dog has separation anxiety or not? A good place to start is by videotaping the behavior in the owner’s absence. By simply placing a camera at an effective angle that captures the entryway including doors and windows can be quite insightful. Even better, setting up a live webcam can be quite helpful so that the dog owners can return in case the dog is about to become destructive, or  worse, risks injuring himself. Showing the video then to a behavior professional may be quite helpful as it can provide an important puzzle piece along with other clues obtained from the dog’s medical and behavioral history.

As seen, separation anxiety may be sometimes tricky to diagnose. Best to play it safe and obtain a proper diagnosis by first seeing the vet so to rule out certain medical disorders, and then consulting with a behavioral professional so to ensure there are not other possible conditions at play.

“It is critically important that a problem behavior be correctly identified prior to the implementation of a behavior modification protocol. It does no good to try to modify separation anxiety if that’s not really the problem.” ~Pat Miller

Did you know? Separation anxiety is different from isolation distress. According to Malena DeMartini, dog trainer and author of “Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs,” a dog suffering from separation anxiety experiences extreme distress when separated from a specific person, or, occasionally, two people. On the contrary, dogs suffering from isolation distress suffer from the mere fact of being isolated, therefore as long as they have a caregiver to keep them company, any person “will do.”

 

References:

  • Psychology Today, Separation Anxiety: The Great Imitator, Part 1, retrieved from the web on August 11th, 2016
  • Clinical Veterinary Advisor: Dogs and Cats, By Etienne Cote, Mosby; 3 edition (December 23, 2014)
  • Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life, By Pat Miller, Dogwise Publishing (June 25, 2010)
  • Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat3: Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat By Gary M. Landsberg, Wayne L. Hunthausen, Lowell J. Ackerman, Saunders Ltd.; 3 edition (December 28, 2012)
  • Oh Behave!: Dogs from Pavlov to Premack to Pinker, By Jean Donaldson, Dogwise Publishing (April 1, 2008)
  • How Serious is it and Does it Matter, by Malena DeMartini, retrieved from the web on August 11th, 2016

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Dog Word of the Day: Stretching the Ratio

by

 

What does it mean to stretch the ratio when it comes to dog training? First of all, it’s important to understand how dogs are trained in the initial stages of learning. When it comes to dog training, positive reinforcement is a very powerful and effective tool as it offers the win-win situation of strengthening desired behaviors while making the training process fun and rewarding without resorting to pain, punishment or intimidation. To better understand what stretching the ratio means, we will therefore have to take a peak at what happens to dogs during the initial stages of learning and how we can balance a reduced reliance on treats with keeping the dog motivated and happy.

dog stretch the ratioThe Power of Positive Reinforcement

When we apply positive reinforcement, we are basically adding a consequence that, from the dog’s perspective, is rewarding enough so to entice him to want to repeat the behavior. The power of positive reinforcement is that it results in behaviors increasing and strengthening. So for example, if we are training our dog to sit and give him a treat every time his bottom touches the floor, with time and practice, we will see an increase of the sitting behavior.

When we provide our dogs with a reward for every desired response, we are using what is known as a Continuous Schedule of Reinforcement (CRF). This schedule is not limited to dog training. We can see plenty of examples of this happening in our everyday lives. Every time we press the power button on our remotes, our T.V. it turns on (when the battery is not dead of course), every time we turn the notch of our gas stove, the burner lights up, every time we insert a dollar bill in the vending machine, it releases our favorite soda.

The Problems With Using CRF

While a continuous schedule works great initially when we first start training a new behavior, if we continue rewarding the dog all the time for every correct response we will eventually end up rewarding also below average responses. For example, when we reward our dog for sitting correctly all the time, most likely among those sits are also slow-to-respond sits, and we may expect even, sloppy sits (with the legs spread out to the side) to mix in every now and then. By continuing to dole out treats for every single correct response we will be therefore removing opportunities for improvement and the quality of the behavior is affected. On top of that, the longer the dog is rewarded for every correct response, the harder it becomes to start phasing out all those rewards when a dog has relied on them for so long. This results in a dog who expects a reward every single time.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

” If you reward a dog for every correct response, approximately 50% of the time you will reward the dog for above–average responses and 50% of the time you will reward a dog for below average responses. It is simply too silly to reward a dog for below-average responses.” Ian Dunbar

A Bit of a Stretchdog sit

Stretching the ratio is the procedure used to gradually increase the number of responses required for the dog to earn reinforcement (rewards that increase/strengthen behaviors). We don’t want to phase out the food rewards completely, otherwise the behavior risks becoming extinct eventually disappearing from the dog’s behavior repertoire. So at some point, once the dog shows signs of responding at a steady rate, it’s time to stretch the ratio and start working our way up from a continuous schedule to an intermittent one, where behavior is rewarded randomly on some occasions and not others, which works great for maintaining behavior and preventing it from becoming extinct. This schedule indeed leads to permanence of the behavior. An intermittent schedule also works great for gradually thinning out those food rewards, so that the dog doesn’t rely on them too much. Yes, gradually is the important keyword here!

“Stretching the ratio: gradually increasing the number of times a behavior must be performed to qualify for reinforcement. May produce ratio strain if done incorrectly.” ~Science of Behavior

dog training mistakesPreventing Ratio Strain

Just like an elastic band may break if you stretch it too much, your dog’s behavior may start breaking apart if you stretch the ratio too much. Ratio strain is the technical term used to depict the phenomenon when a dog’s pattern of responding begins disrupting because of stretching that ratio too much. It’s the classic cliche’ seen in workplaces across the globe when workers start grumbling because they are overworked and underpaid.

So asking too much and giving a low rate of reinforcement frequency can cause problems that may lead to dogs getting too frustrated, showing displacement behaviors and giving up. Just imagine what a person  would do if the vending machine doesn’t deliver the soda upon inserting  the dollar bill. Most likely, he may try pushing the buttons and possibly even kicking the machine!

So to prevent this from happening, we can stretch the ratio very gradually, and if we need to remedy the situation, we can temporarily increase the rewards for a bit until we reestablish the behavior and then we can start gradually stretching.

The process of stretching the ratio must therefore be very gradual as we’re shaping persistence. We would therefore start by giving a treat to the dog for every successful sit at first (CRF), then as the dog responds at a steady rate, we can start giving the treat every other sit, then we can start rewarding randomly like the third sit, the second sit, the fifth sit, etc. This is a good time to start raising criteria, raising the bar and paying attention to what the dog does so we can start picking out only the best sits to reward, so that we improve quality. Once we have successfully stretched the ratio, we should see a dog who is on his toes and eager to work for that random reward, yes, just like a gambler playing the slots at Vegas!

“Casinos, believe me, use the power of the variable ratio schedule to develop behaviors, such as playing slot machines, that are very resistant to extinction, despite highly variable and unpredictable reinforcement.”~Karen Pryor

dog grasssAn Up and Down Process

Moving from a continuous schedule to an intermittent one is not a clear cut process like turning on a light switch. For example, when your dog learns to sit reliably in your living room (like at least eight times out of ten,) you may start giving treats randomly, but then, once you’re out in the yard, where there are more distractions around, your best bet is to move back to a continuous schedule temporarily until your dog responds reliably in spite of those distractions. Also, when training a dog to perform a behavior when using shaping (a training method that entails rewarding successive approximations of the final behavior ) ” you’ll also find yourself rewarding continuously and then variably at times as you establish new criterion.

“Reinforcement may go from predictable to a little unpredictable back to predictable, as you climb, step by step, toward your ultimate goal…Marian Breland Bailey told me she called this a “shaping schedule.” It’s a natural part of the shaping process.”~ Karen Pryor

Tip: If you couple giving a reward with praise (eg. good boy!), your dog will associate those words with something good, so that when you’re not giving treats, praise will still have good value to communicate a job well done!

warning cautionDid you know? Stretching the ratio is astutely used in gambling establishments. Card sharks will let you win frequently during the early stages of play and then once you’re hooked, they’ll stretch the ratio gradually and then start winning more and more of the games, explains Paul Chance in the book “Learning and Behavior.”

 

References:

  • Clicker Training, Extinction and Intermittent Reinforcement, retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • Clicker Training, Reinforce Every Behavior? retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • The Whole Dog Journal, Common Training Mistakes, retrieved from the web on Aug 10th, 2016
  • Learning and Behavior: Active Learning Edition (PSY 361 Learning) 6th Edition, by Paul Chance, Cengage Learning; 6 edition (February 22, 2008)

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

What Does it Mean When a Border Collie Gives Eye?

by

 

Wondering what “giving eye” means when it comes to border collies? In the world of dogs, there are many breeds selectively bred to perform several tasks. We have dogs bred for hunting, dogs bred for retrieving, dogs bred for guarding and even dogs bred for providing companionship and with a history of warming up the laps (lap dogs) and feet of aristocratic ladies. Border collies were  selectively bred for herding, something these dogs do very well, hence why they’re often referred to as “the workaholics of the canine world.” In this breed, “giving eye” is something that is much appreciated by the shepherds, but can you guess what it exactly means for a border collie to give eye? So today’s Trivia question is:

What does it mean when a border collie is “giving eye?”

A The border collie is staring at the sheep so to control motion

B The border collie is making eye contact with the shepherd as he eagerly waits further instructions

C The border collie is giving a mean, hard stare to the other dogs he’s working with

D The border collie is keeping an eye on the flock making sure no wolves attack the sheep

The correct answer is: drum roll please….

 

drum

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

 

The correct answer is: A, The border collie is staring at the sheep so to control motion

border collieA Matter of Herding Style

Different herding dog breeds have different herding styles when it comes to moving sheep or cattle from one area to another. These variances may have originated because of the different needs of the shepherd or perhaps the different set-ups found in a particular agricultural region.

We therefore have herding dogs who run and bark, herding dogs who nip at heels and even herding dogs who walk on the backs of sheep.  When it comes to the herding style of border collies, their style is quite unique. Border collies will stare intently at the sheep, “giving them eye.” What does the border collie accomplish from giving eye to the sheep? A whole lot we should say, considering this breed’s eagerness to get the the job done.

A Look Back in Time

border collie herding

A border collie’s herding style is reminiscent of the past when a dog’s ancestors were hunting. Back in the old days, in order to enjoy a meal, it was necessary to follow a precise sequence which is known as  the predatory sequence. This sequence entailed giving eye, stalking, chasing, catching, killing, and of course, eating. Catching, killing and eating is something that is out of question nowadays as herding dogs should never hurt their sheep. Fortunately, for the most part, it appears that a herding dog’s predatory sequences has been “truncated.” In other words, it has been cut short.

So border collies will give eye, stalk, and chase and some may occasionally nip too particularly when dealing with stubborn sheep, but fortunately not very hard. However, it’s  generally quite frowned upon for a herding dog to show the grab/bite behavior typically seen in cattle heelers and some consider it a major fault.

“If you’ve ever seen a Border Collie herding sheep, you’ve watched a predator in action. “~ Jolanta Benal

giving eyeAn Eye for Herding

The border collie breed gains its name from the border between Scotland and England where this dog was considered a valuable asset, courtesy of his almost inborn aptitude to follow the shepherd’s requests and his signature stare, the “eye,” with which this breed controls the flock. When border collies give eyes, they are orienting towards the sheep in a stalking position.

According to James Serpell, author of the book “The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People” this giving eye behavior seems to act as a reward on its own and once it’s present, the only way to stop it is to remove the dog from the stimulus contributing to the behavior.

 

“It’s impossible to even to try to herd sheep with a pup until it shows eye. What a border collie handler does is to train the dog when and how to go in order to use the eye. But nobody can train a dog to show eye or to point.”~Raymond Coppinger, Lorna Coppinger

Movement is a Triggerstalk dog

What triggers a border collie to give eye? Experiments at Hampshire College showed that the eye giving behavior in border collies was in part stimulated by the anticipation of movement. Indeed, when the border collies were introduced to a group of sedated chicken which were pretty much motionless (poor poultry!), they were not giving eye. Instead, they were carrying out all sorts of displacement behaviors such as barking at the birds or play-bowing. However, giving eye behaviors  promptly seemed to resume once the border collies detected movement (Coppinger et al, 1987)

How does the “giving eye” behavior get the sheep under control? It seems that sheep respond to it naturally because it mimics the intensity of posture seen in a wolf stalking its prey. It’s sort of a way to “exert psychological pressure,” so to say. John Holmes in the book “The Farmer’s Dog,” makes quite an interesting observation. He claims that the “eye ” is more an attitude of approach than something connected with the dog’s eye. Talk about the art of giving eye!

“A Border Collie moves livestock by controlled intimidation. He pushes them along with a threatening glare. This glare is called ‘eye’ and is probably related to the wolves’ tactic of selecting a victim in the herd by catching its eye… before starting the attack run.”~Donald McCaig

idea tipDid you know? When it comes to the amount of “eye” a dog has, dogs can be classified as having strong, medium or loose-eyes.

Border Collie At Work Using Eye

 

References:

  • The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People, By James Serpell, Cambridge University Press; 1 edition (January 26, 1996)
  • Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior and Evolution, By Raymond Coppinger, Lorna Coppinger, University Of Chicago Press; 1 edition (October 1, 2002)
  • The Farmer’s Dog, John Holmes, Popular Dogs Publishing; 10Rev Ed edition (1991)

Photo Credits:

The Border Collie uses a direct stare at sheep, known as “the eye”, to intimidate while herding, by C. MacMillan – Original Work, CC BY 2.5

Border Collie herding by Jean-Michel Castelan/Design Madeleine – Collection privée CC BY-SA 3.0


I am Your Dog’s Radial Nerve

by

 

Just as in people, the dog’s body is innervated by several branches of  nerves that relay information from the brain and spinal cord to several parts of the body and organs. There are several nerves originating from the dog’s spinal cord which branch off into several ramifications made of individual nerves that supply the dog’s front legs. The radial nerve in particular, is a nerve that can be predisposed to several problems such as dogs having trouble moving their front legs and possibly developing muscle wasting. This is another good reason to see the vet when a dog starts limping for no obvious reason.

dog radial nerveIntroducing the Dog’s Radial Nerve

Hello, it’s your dog’s radial nerve talking! Before introducing myself, I want to give out a little lesson in canine anatomy so that you can better understand my role. You see, just like you, your dog is blessed with a nervous system that’s composed by the brain and spinal cord. The brain is your dog’s command central, while the spinal cord, and its associated nerves, work as a pathway for all those messages being relayed from the dog’s  brain to his body and vice versa.

Your dog’s brachial plexus is a network of of cervical (neck) and thoracic (thorax) nerves originating from the spinal cord and then branching off into singular nerves that reach the dog’s front legs.

The brachial plexus is composed by three nerves: me (the radial nerve) and my neighboring median nerve and ulnar nerve. I basically, innervate your dog’s front legs  from the elbow all the way down to your’s dog’s wrist and toes. I  don’t want to sound like I am bragging, but I am basically, the biggest nerve of your dog’s front leg. Can you guess how I got my name? I am known as radial nerve for the simple fact that I run right by your dog’s radius bone, the main weight-supporting bone of your dog’s forelimb.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

I Help With Movement and Sensation

Not many people are aware of me, but I sure do a whole lot to help your dog move about all day. I provide motor innervation to your dog’s muscles in the front leg allowing your dog to romp around every time he wants to and also provide sensory innervation to the skin, in particular to the upper-outside surface of the dog’s front leg and the upper surface of the dog’s paw. When all goes well with me and I am all in one piece, your dog is capable of moving around, having reflexes and feeling sensations. Problems start though when something goes wrong with me.

Did you know? Dogs tend to carry the majority of their weight in the front legs. If we were to look at proportions when it comes to weight distribution in dogs, we could expect 60 percent of weight to be carried in the front legs and the remaining 40 percent in the back legs.

When Things Go Wrong dog pain goes away at the vet

As with other body parts, I can be prone to traumatic injury such as seen with a fall or car accident. I am one of the most common areas to be subjected to nerve injuries. If the impact is strong enough or if the dog’s foreleg is hyperextended away from the body, it may cause the nervous tissue of the brachial plexus to stretch and even forcibly detach from the spinal cord (what is known as brachial plexus avulsion), which affects my functionality just like an electric cord that is fraying or splitting in half.

When this happens, affected dogs may suffer from weakness and loss of muscle use and sensation below the elbow which can lead to toe dragging when walking and since the elbow can’t be extended inability to bear weight. The use of special boots or socks may be needed in dogs with radial nerve injury to prevent injury to their paws.

In some other cases, a tumor such as a nerve sheath tumor or a tumor of neighboring tissue (fibrosarcoma, myosarcoma), on or around the brachial plexus, can affect me leading to problems with the dog’s forelimbs. As soon as dog owners notice any problems such as loss of sensation, weakness or paralysis, it’s important to see veterinary care immediately because muscle mass can be lost quite quickly considering that us nerves time time to regenerate. Seeing a veterinarian specializing in neurology is recommended. Physical therapy using passive range of motion exercises is important so to provide blood flow to the dog’s muscles preventing them from atrophying.

Unfortunately, when us nerves sustain an injury either because of trauma or presence of a tumor, we take quite a while to heal. Need a general idea? Consider that according to Pet Education, nerve fibers generally heal at the rate of 1 mm a day (that’s about 1 inch per month!). Prognosis depends on the extent of injury affecting me. I might lose function temporarily recovering within a few days or I might take weeks or even months to recover and in severe cases  I may sometimes never recover. In the meanwhile as I start to repair myself, I can cause a pins and needles sensation (paraesthesia) that dogs may find hard to accept. Affected dogs may therefore lick and chew on the affected leg, and since they cannot feel pain, if not monitored, they may cause substantial damage.

“Nerve injuries are very mysterious. It can be very difficult to predict if function will return after injury.”~ Dr. Foster and Smith

As seen, I am an important nerve that allows your dog to move and feel sensations. Without me, dogs would not be able to walk and use their front legs to bear weight. So make sure you keep your dog safe and off the roads, so to prevent me from getting injured, and if you notice any problems with your dog’s front legs, please see your vet promptly, that means sooner than later as time is of the essence with these type of injuries. I hoped this helped understand me better!

Best regards,

Your Dog’s Radial NerveDog Pawprint

 

References:

  • Pet Education, Radial Nerve Paralysis in Dogs and Cats, retrieved from the web on August 8th, 2016
  • Dr Fosters and Smith, Dog Neurological Disorders: Radial Nerve Paralysis, retrieved from the web on August 8th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Anterior view of right brachial plexus. Illustration. Modified by Mattopaedia on 02-Jan-2006 from the 1918 Edition of Gray’s Anatomy. Public Domain

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Help, My Dog Keeps Sniffing on Walks

by

 

“Help, my dog keeps on sniffing everything on walks and I don’t know how to stop him.” If this sounds quite familiar, rest assured you are not alone. Countless dogs love sniffing while walking and with that powerful sniffer, who can blame them? Sniffing is totally normal behavior in dogs, not sniffing is actually what is abnormal. Of course though, walking a dog who pulls to sniff every single bush, every single fire hydrant and every single lamppost can get old over time and quite frustrating.  Since stopping your dog from sniffing altogether is unrealistic and you don’t want to end up with your arm coming out of its socket, the best way to deal with this problem is to find a compromise.

dog pull to sniffSniffing is Rewarding 

Before approaching the problem of dogs who pull to sniff when they are walking on leash, it’s important to realize how rewarding it is for a dog to sniff. When we go out on a walk, we mostly pay attention to the world around us by looking around. We may notice our neighbor’s new flowers, a home being remodeled or a person working on a car. Dogs instead tend to live in an olfactory world. It’s natural for dogs to want to investigate their surroundings and the best way to do this is through their almighty nose. Asking a dog to never stop to sniff on walks is somewhat comparable to asking a person to go for a stroll blindfolded.

Dogs who urine mark on car tires, bushes and lampposts are leaving their pee-mail, basically special social “tweets” under the form of chemical messages known as “pheromones” which are purposely left behind for other dogs to sniff. When your dog goes to sniff these areas, he is using his Jacobson organ, a special pouch-like structure found between the dog’s vomer and nasal bones  equipped with a special duct at the top of the dog’s roof of the mouth. A dog’s Jacobson organ is lined up with special olfactory receptor cells responsible for detecting chemical messages which are then relayed to important parts of the dog’s brain capable of generating emotional and behavioral responses. So this explains why dogs are so obsessed in sniffing and marking…

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

“While we’re walking we spend a lot of energy looking around—enjoying the view and noting what has changed in the neighborhood. Dogs, on the other hand, primarily want to learn about the environment through olfaction.” ~Patricia McConnell

Tense Leash Means Stop

Capture

Dogs who pull on walks to sniff everything do so because it’s rewarding. If every time your dog pulls, he gets to sniff something, what has he learned? That pulling leads to rewards.  It’s just as simple as that (hint, opposition reflex plays a role here too). If every time you insert a coin into a vending machine you get a snack, your coin inserting behavior will persist. So getting acquainted with these dynamics is key to solving the pulling behavior. Starting today, the moment you notice your dog is starting to walk ahead of you to reach a bush he always sniffs, start slowing down, and then when your dog reaches the end of the leash, stop walking in your tracks. Turn into a statue cemented to the ground.

The first time you do this, your dog will likely be surprised. “Hey, what happened? Usually, every time I reach the end of the leash, I drag my owner a couple of steps and then get to sniff the bush.” Your dog may at this point, try pulling even harder, a phenomenon known as an”extinction burst. ” This is normal, just as you would try shaking a vending machine that doesn’t deliver your snack after inserting your coin, your dog may try pulling harder since it’s no longer working. Be patient, keep still and expect the first walks to take longer than usual, but don’t worry all your training will pay off soon!

 

lose leash means goLoose Leash Means Go

While stopping in your tracks teaches your dog that pulling no longer works, you want to train your dog what he needs to do instead. When you stop, call your dog to your side and reward him with some tasty food rewards. Then start walking and reward your dog for staying by your side every 3 steps, then, as your dog gets good at this, you can try every 6, and then at some point, you can start rewarding randomly (eg, every 3 steps, every 8, every 5, every 6).

Since you are passing by areas that have a strong history of reinforcement (fire hydrants, lamppost, bushes and other areas where pee-mail is often deposited) it’s important to make sticking by your side extra rewarding by investing in high-value treats. Make sure to make the area next to your leg your official “reward zone.” As your dog learns that on walks you are granting him his fair share of opportunities to sniff, you can then start fading the treats but keep giving them every now especially when you need to help him make good choices around distractions.

“Tight leash = brakes or red light, slack leash = accelerator or green light” ~ Jean Donaldson

Use the Premack Principle 

sniffing

We often think about food as a way to reward dogs for performing behavior we like, but sometimes  other types of rewards are right in front of our noses (and our dog’s noses too). Premack’s Principle states “more probable behaviors will reinforce less probable behaviors.” Also known as “Grandma’s Law,” it’s as if we were telling a child “you can have apple pie if you eat your broccoli first.”

What does this mean to our dogs? It means that, every now and then, we can reward a dog for walking nicely on the leash (broccoli) by allowing him to “go sniff” (apple pie).  After all, when we walk our dogs, don’t we do it for them mostly? Don’t they deserve a bit of sniffing time? By demanding them to never stop to sniff, or worse, correcting them every time they want to sniff by delivering a leash correction, makes dogs perceive us as a source of punishment and an obstacle preventing them from having a bit of innocent, free fun.

“Booooo.. who wants to stick by a person who delivers corrections and ends all the fun, what party poopers humans are!”

CaptureTeaching “Go Sniff”

Here’s when we can incorporate a “go sniff” cue and find a compromise on walks so that we both get to enjoy the perks that come along with all the stimuli associated with the great outdoors. Since dogs benefit from sniffing from time to time,(hey, sniffing is a tiring activity too, win-win!) here’s where the Premack Principle comes handy. Every now and then, when your dog is walking nicely by your side, walk towards an area that you’ll be using for your dog’s sniffing pleasure. Practice walking to this area on a loose leash. Make it a habit to say “go sniff” so that your dog understands that you are giving him permission to go on a sniffing adventure. This is  one of the easiest training cues you will ever train as most dogs know what to do when you let them approach a “pee-mail” area.

Make sure you give him a bit time and when he seems to be losing interest,  say “let’s go” praise, and continue on your walk. Or even better, if you have access to a fenced area where your dog can safely stay off leash and sniff to his heart’s content, walk towards this area, and when that leash is dangling in a nice slack “U” snap off the leash and say “go sniff.” Most dogs at some point get tired of sniffing, so once the novelty is gone, this is a good time to call your dog and reward him.

“The walk plus sniffing will help tire out the dog and make the walk more productive, but it will also allow the dog to check “pee-mail.”Use sniffing as a reward on the walk. “Walk politely on a leash to the fire hydrant and you’ll get to sniff it!”~Amber Walker

 

idea tipTip: for some dogs, the outdoors is very stimulating and if might be too difficult to implement this training in face of all the olfactory distractions. You may therefore want to start training loose leash walking in your home and yard first. Simply, put a leash on your dog and place a toy or a couple of kibble on the floor and practice walking by these temptations on a loose leash. Praise and reward, making sure you use treats that are higher in value that the item on the floor.

 

References:

  • Clicker Training, Go Ahead, Let Your Dog Sniff, retrieved from the web on August 7th, 2016
  • The Other End of the Leash, Take Your Dog on a Sniff, retrieved from the web on August 7th, 2016

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Dogs Have Different Types of Veterinary Specialists Too

by

 

In the field of human medicine, it’s common practice for doctors to refer their patients to some type of specialists, and the same multi-tiered practice is now occurring in the veterinary field as there are now many different types of veterinary specialists for dogs to choose from. While your veterinarian is your go-to person when your dog needs a check-up or is feeling unwell, more and more veterinarians now turn their difficult and most challenging cases to veterinary specialists. When is it time for your dog to see a veterinary specialist, and most of all, who are these specialists and what do they do?

vetWhen to See A Veterinarian

Regular veterinarians undergo many years of training where they learn how to diagnose and treat several conditions and diseases affecting dogs, cats and possibly, other animals they specialize in (avian, exotics). Typically, a veterinarian will obtain an undergraduate degree at some University or College before entering veterinary school. Once in veterinary school, prospective veterinarians then undergo a 4-year program with several months spent being mentored by other vets. Veterinarians are recognized by the title DVM following their name which stands for Doctor of Veterinary Medicine. Veterinarians graduating from the University of Pennsylvania (Penn Vet) are recognized instead by the title VMD  which stands for Veterinary Medical Doctorate. 

Your veterinarian is the first place to go when your dog needs a check-up, sustains some type of injury or when your dog is feeling unwell. Veterinarians therefore act in a similar fashion as a family practice physician.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Did you know? In medical circles there is a saying: “When you hear hoof beats, think horses, not zebras.” This saying comes from Dr. Theodore Woodward, professor at the University of Maryland School of Medicine who used it when instructing his medical interns. What this means is that, upon noticing symptoms, one must go for the most simple diagnosis. So if say, a dog is itching, the dog is most likely to do so because of allergies rather than some rare skin worm infestation. However, when things seem to get quite challenging, it’s often a sign that it time to see a specialist, who can be more familiar with seeing zebras, which may be less rare than thought as they get to see many complex cases.

“Although I agree with Dr. Woodward’s original premise, I have always felt it best to teach my students: “When you hear hoofbeats, think of horses, zebras and any other cloven-hoofed animal that might be responsible for the sound.”~John Lewis VMD, DAVCD

When to See a Veterinary SpecialistCapture

A veterinary specialist is a veterinarian who has completed additional years of training in a specifically chosen field that is not included in the average vet school. These additional years of intensive training include a a 2-3 year residency in choice of specialty which is followed by a rigorous credentialing process, which, when passed, leads to board-certification. When a veterinarian completes this rigorous training he becomes a “diplomat. ” On top of using the title DVM or VMD, these specialists have extra letters which informs about their area of specialty. For example, Emily Moeller, DVM, DACVO is a veterinarian (DVM) and  a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (DACVO).

When does a dog need to see a veterinary specialist? In most cases, veterinarians will  be the first to refer to one when they deal with complicated issues, but some dog owners can attest that it doesn’t always go this way. Sometimes vets may be reluctant to provide this option because they may assume that distance or financial reasons will discourage owners from pursuing such option or they may truthfully feel that they are treating the dog correctly. However, a dog who has had undergone several batteries of tests and who are not getting better despite repeated visits and treatments or a dog who needs a delicate type of surgery that requires a certain level of expertise, may benefit from a visit to a specialist. At some point, it may be necessary for the dog owner to step in and ask if seeing a specialist may be a good idea or the owners may decide seek a specialist on his own. Some specialists don’t require a referral, but they will need your dog’s medical history and records.

“With some exceptions, any time it takes more than three visits to solve a problem you should consider seeing a specialist to help suss it out. Sure, some issues are well-understood to require several follow-up visits (and your vet will usually tell you about this up front), but if you find yourself frustratingly fighting an increasingly difficult problem, it’s probably time to see a specialist.” Dr. Patty Khuly 

dog pain goes away at the vetKeep this List of Types of Veterinary Specialists Handy! 

Did you know? According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) there are currently 40 veterinary specialties and more than 11,000 veterinarians have attained the title as board- certified diplomats by veterinary specialty organizations.

If you think your dog may benefit from some specialized care, being aware about these specialists can help you out.

Here is a list of several veterinary specialties, their associated abbreviations and descriptions of what these areas of specialty may entail.

 

  • DACVAA or Dip. ACVAA

These are board-certified Diplomates of The American College of Veterinary Anesthesia and Analgesia (ACVAA). These veterinarians specialize in veterinary anesthesiology and pain management. Many of these specialists practice and teach in veterinary schools while others may work in hospitals or private specialty practices. Dogs who may benefit from seeing a veterinary anesthesiologist are dogs who are at a higher anesthetic risk either because of age, size or physical condition. Organs that require close attention when a dog is under are the dog’s brain, lungs, heart, kidney and liver. Veterinary anesthesiologists are specifically trained to monitor, recognize and care for any complications that may arise as a result of anesthesia.

  • DACVB or Dip. ACVB

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Behavior Specialists (ACVB). These veterinarians specialize in animal behavior including dogs, cats, horses and birds. What makes them stand out from the crowd? These specialists are able to diagnose and treat behavior problems in animals, whether stemming from a medical problem or being purely behavioral in nature.  Since they are also veterinarians, these specialists are also licensed to prescribe drugs that are meant to be used along with behavior modification. While veterinarians, dog trainers and behavior consultants may provide help for behavior problems, their expertise doesn’t generally reach the depth or breadth of that of a Veterinary Behaviorist. Aggression, anxiety, phobias, repetitive behaviors, inappropriate elimination and excessive vocalizations are just a few behavior problems these experts address.

  • DAVDC or Dip. AVDCTony Alter/Flickr)

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American Veterinary Dental College (AVDC). These veterinarians specialize in veterinary dentistry. These veterinarians have made dental care their area of specialty, and as such, they provide expertise in delicate or unusual dental procedures such as root canals, crowns and certain types of surgical procedures such as correcting a malocclusion, performing a complicated extraction or removing a dog’s oral tumor from the mouth.

  • DACVD or Dip. ACVD

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology (ACVD) These veterinarians specialize in veterinary dermatology and the treatment of skin, ear, hair, nail, hoof, and mouth disorders. There are countless skin conditions affecting dogs and things can get complicated at times. Veterinary dermatologists have what it takes to properly diagnose and treat skin diseases whether caused by bacteria, viruses, parasites or autoimmune conditions, hair loss, skin cancers, systemic disorders resulting in skin problems and more. These specialists have therefore made skin problems their area of specialty and since several skin problems in humans are similar to those found in animals, they also obtain training in comparative medicine along with training in internal medicine, immunology and allergy.

  • DACVO or Dip. ACVO

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (ACVO). These veterinarians specialize in veterinary ophthalmology. A veterinary ophthalmologist can work alongside your vet to diagnose and treat any eye disorders affecting your dog. Many eye disorders in dogs require prompt care and if they do not respond to initial therapy or if a dog’s vision is deteriorating, a specialist may be needed. Veterinarians specializing in eye disorders can provide helpful insights in complex cases. They have special diagnostic machines and can carry out some complex surgeries such as cataract surgery, cherry eye surgery or enucleation (eye removal).

  • DACVN or Dip. ACVN

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition (ACVN). These are veterinarians specializing in nutrition. A veterinary nutritionist can help you develop a customized diet for a dog, help market a specific product and tackle any conditions and disorders derived from a dietary problem. There’s no denial that nutrition plays a primary role in a dog’s state of health and veterinary nutritionists have what it takes to formulate commercial diets and supplements, home-made diets and help meet the nutritional needs of dogs of different ages, breeds and health statuses. You may find veterinary nutritionists working for vet schools,  dog food companies and veterinary companies, although some of them run their own businesses.

  • DACVR Dip. ACVR

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Radiology (ACVR). These are veterinarians specializing in veterinary radiology. It’s a known fact that there is currently a great expansion when it comes to veterinary diagnostic imaging and radiation therapy procedures. It can be quite difficult for regular veterinarians to keep up with all these advances in technology. Here comes the role of veterinary radiologists, specialists who use state-of-the art equipment and procedures meant to help in important diagnostics. Their practice is not limited to x-rays, these experts specialize in ultrasound, Ct scans, MRI’s, nuclear medicine and radiation oncology. A veterinary radiologist also can see things that can be missed by the regular vet, so consulting with them for image interpretation is a big plus.

  • DACVS or Dip. ACVS

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Surgeons (ACVS).  As their title implies, these are veterinarians specializing in surgery. While all vets learn how to perform various surgical procedures in vet school, sometimes dogs may need advanced care and procedures that are not routinely performed by the average vet. This is when veterinary surgeons are needed. These specialists can deal with complicated cases that require advanced procedures, specialized equipment and intensive monitoring when there are particular risks for the pet.

Veterinary surgeons may further specialize in certain types of surgery. There are therefore Dip. ACVS in Small Animal orthopedic surgery or DACVS (Small Animal Orthopedic Surgery) specializing in surgical procedures involving joints, ligaments, tendons and bones and Dip. ACVS in soft tissue surgery or DACVS (Soft Tissue Surgery) specializing in surgical procedures involving  non-bone tissues and tissues of internal organs.

  • DACT or Dip. ACT

These are board-certified Diplomats of the American College of Theriogenologists (ACT). These are veterinarians specializing in reproduction. These specialists focus on the physiology and pathology of reproductive systems and obstetrics. Breeders may consult with these specialists when their breeding stock develops conditions or diseases affecting their ability to reproduce. Many veterinary theriogenologists mostly work with livestock, but some also work with small animals including dogs and specialize in their reproductive diseases.

  • DACVIM or Dip. ACVIM

These board-certified veterinarians are Diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM). These are veterinarians specializing in internal medicine, which broadly encompasses the prevention, diagnosis, and treatment of several conditions and diseases.

Within this area of specialty are several sub-specialties such as Dip. ACVIM in Neurology or DACVIM (Neurology) veterinarians specializing in diseases of the brain, spinal cord and other nervous system disorders,  Dip. ACVIM in Oncology or DACVIM (Oncology),  veterinarians specializing in tumors and cancer, and Dip. ACVIM in Cardiology or DACVIM (cardiology), veterinarians specializing in the heart and circulatory system.

  • DACVECC or Dip. ACVECC

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care (ACVECC). As the name implies, these are specialists in emergency care when every seconds counts. If a dog is suffering from a life threatening disease, these specialists will closely monitor the pet in an intensive care unit until the animal recovers.  These specialists undergo intense training in emergency, surgery and critical care and are often found in an emergency practice or they may work alongside other vets in a hospital setting or they can be found teaching at a vet school. Dogs that may benefit from this this type of care include dogs sustaining traumas, dogs in shock needing a blood transfusion, dogs having trouble breathing, heart problems or neurological diseases.

DACVM or Dip. ACVM

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Microbiologists (ACVM). These specialists focus on Infectious Diseases.

DACVP or Dip ACVP

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Pathologists (ACVP). These specialists focus on how medications affect animals.

DACVPM or Dip. ACVPM

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Preventive Medicine (ACVPM). These specialists focus on  the detection, prevention, and control of diseases  that affect food, animals and the general public.

DACVSMR or Dip. ACVSMR

These are board-certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation (ACVSMR). These veterinarians specialize in rehabilitating dogs and horses from sport-related injuries. With many dog sports around nowadays, this field is expanding.

DACVT or Dip. ACVT

These are board -certified Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Toxicology (ACVT). These veterinarians specialize in  how poisons and toxic products can affect animals.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice.

References:

  • Embrace Pet Insurance, Ten Ways to Know If Your Pet Needs a Veterinary Specialist, retrieved from the web on August 6th, 2016
  •  American Veterinary Medical Association, AVMA American Board of Veterinary Specialties, retrieved from the web on August 6th, 2016
  • Veterinary Practice News, Keeping An Eye Out For Zebras, retrieved from the web on August 6th, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Tony Alter, Clean Bill Of Health, (CC BY 2.0) Flickr, Creative Commons

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

What’s Up With Siberian Huskies Escaping Their Yards?

by

 

“My Siberian husky escaped, can you help me find him?” This is a familiar plea of help that comes from many distraught Siberian husky owners looking for their lost best friends. Their hopes for finding their dogs materialize under the form of posters of their lost dogs affixed to electric poles, and announcements on newspapers and bulletin boards. Animal control officers are even quite familiar with seeing these “hairy Houdinis” roaming around in search of an adventure. So what’s up with all these huskies escaping from their homes and yards? Turns out, several husky rescues are well aware of this breed’s tendency, so much so that they are reluctant to adopt out unless perspective adopters meet certain fencing requirements.

runningA History as Nomads

By looking back at the history of the Siberian husky breed, it’s possible to pinpoint where the tendency to roam may stem from. Siberian huskies were selectively bred by the Chucki people, a tribe of Siberian nomads living in the tundra. Huskies back then provided a fast, economical transportation solution over the vast frozen lands, covering long distances while eating minimal amounts of food. When not transporting sleds over great distances, huskies were often utilized as soft beds for the tribal children. Despite being introduced into the United States in the early 1900s and no longer being utilized as sleds dogs, Siberian huskies still retain the many qualities that the Chucki people raved about.

Did you know? In 1925, a serious outbreak of diphtheria affected the city of Nome, Alaska. It is thanks to teams of huskies that vital supplies of the serum were delivered to this city.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Runners at Heartrunning husky

With a history of pulling sleds for about 50 to 60 miles a day and traveling to new places, it’s no surprise that today, Siberian huskies have a strong desire to run and explore new places.

If we look at their bodies, we can see how they are built for the task. According to the American Kennel Club  breed standard, Siberian huskies are blessed with firm, well-developed muscles that allow a smooth, effortless gait which allows them the speed and endurance needed to travel over great distances.  And they do so very quickly! Their tough and thickly cushioned  paw pads also play a role in allowing power, speed and endurance in these light-footed fellows.

Did you know? A Siberian husky who escaped his home in 2012 on New Year’s Day, was found 7 weeks later but just a “mere” 300 miles away!

Gregarious Animalsgregarious husky

With a history of working along with other dogs and people every day in their native lands, Siberian huskies are born to be very gregarious animals. Because of this gregarious nature, huskies are often known for making poor guard dogs. If they meet an intruder, they might as well invite him over for a movie and some popcorn as if they just met a long, lost friend.

While loyal to those in his family, a husky has a tendency to remain friendly to everyone he meets. Of course, there are exceptions to the rule, but generally huskies are known for being good-natured with everyone and sociable with other dogs.

The truth is, Siberian huskies hate being left alone and they enjoy any opportunity that allows them to make new friends, even if this entails escaping from the yard!

“The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert and outgoing. He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog, nor is he overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs.” ~ American Kennel Club

  chasingStrong Prey Drive

Back in time, huskies were often sent off to fend for themselves and this sometimes meant they had to kill prey. Siberian huskies tend to have a strong prey drive and will want to chase fleeing animals such as squirrels, cats, small rabbits and possums. In some cases, they may even manage to kill small furry, fleeing animals. given the opportunity.

Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule and many husky owners can attest that their huskies live happily with their cats. When raised with cats from a young age, huskies tend to be more accepting, but this may not apply to fleeing cats on the roads. It’s important to realize that predatory drive has nothing to do with aggression. Just like a cat chasing and killing mice isn’t considered aggressive, a husky killing small critters shouldn’t be either.

“Prey drive is simply an innate hunting behavior learned over many hundreds of generations in harsh arctic conditions, where Siberian Huskies were often kept on a lean existence. This was especially so over summer when the Siberian tribes had no use of sled dogs and often turned them loose to hunt for themselves.” ~Siberian Husky Club of Victoria Inc.

diggingDiggers at Heart

Huskies, have a strong desire to dig, and that may also stem back again from their history as sled dogs in their native lands. When it was time to rest in the tundra, huskies would dig up a burrow so to sleep in it and keep warm, resting in their signature nose-to-tail sleeping position.

While huskies may not always dig to keep warm, the activity remains quite enjoyable especially when they unearth interesting things like a buried treasure such as a forgotten toy or bone, the roots of a plant or the tunnel of some wild animal.

Siberian huskies may also dig a hole to keep cool in the dog days of summer, but in some cases, when the digging is focused by the fence lines, consider that your husky may be digging to escape!

“Smarty Pants Dogs “smart

When it comes to being smart, Siberian huskies are blessed with great brains. This was often demonstrated in the past when they exhibited and continue to exhibit what is known as “intelligent disobedience” upon pulling sleds. At some time, their drivers may be telling their sled dog to go forward, but what if there is a hazard ahead? Will the husky be smart enough to say :” No way, I am not going to fall in this crevice or walk onto thin ice!” The answer is a good Siberian husky must be able to that, and this husky’s strong will is sure a godsend, explains Matulich in the book “Siberian Husky.” This breed has therefore  proven to be smart enough to make decisions on his own, even if it entails disobeying the driver.

So when it comes to being smart, these dogs can use their great brains in many circumstances, but that also involves bad projects such troubleshooting  problems for planning an escape.

Putting it all Togetherfence

So what happens when you have a dog with a nomadic history, who loves to run, enjoys the company of people and dogs, has a strong prey drive and is very intelligent? Sure, we can attribute all of the above to many other dogs. After all, what dog doesn’t love to dig, chase animals and be in company of other dogs? However, in Siberian huskies these traits may be a tad bit more pronounced, so when you add their free spirit, determinism, intelligence  and zest for life you have the perfect recipe for an escape artist dog. So what can be done to prevent Siberian huskies from escaping? Here are a few tips:

  • Have your husky microchipped. Consider that ID tags can easily fall off such as when snagged on a branch or fencing.
  • Provide plenty of outdoor time to drain excess energy. Don’t forget about adding environmental enrichment ,  playing games and engaging in fun reward-based training to make staying at home with you attractive. Huskies who are bored or under-stimulated are more likely to escape.
  • Train your Siberian husky to come when called and make sure to make it always super fun and rewarding! When your husky comes to you, don’t just snap on the leash and relegate him to the yard again. Play a game, go for a walk, so that he knows that coming to you is worth it!
  • Keep your Siberian Husky away from animals he may feel like chasing when alone in the yard.
  • Avoid underground electric fences. These won’t stop a strong willed husky and they can cause behavior issues in the long term.
  • Look at a fence from a Siberian husky’s perspective. Basically, think like a husky. Can your husky jump over it, dig under it, wriggle under the gate or squeeze through it?
  • Generally, the accepted height for fence meant to contain a husky is about 6 feet and should not have anything that can be used as paw holds. Don’t forget to have concrete at the perimeter base so to prevent digging under and make sure there are no gaps in gates too.
  • Never punish your husky for escaping, no matter how frustrated you feel. Your husky will think he’s being punished for coming to you rather than escaping and next time this he’ll be running away when called or whenever you try to approach him.
  • If your husky has a habit of bolting out of the door, keep him secured in a closed room when you’re heading out.
  • If your husky tends to slip out of collars when walking, consider trying a martingale collar.

 

References:

  • A New Owner’s Guide to Siberian Huskies, By Linda Forshaw, Hyperink 2012
  • Siberian Husky, edited by Dog Fancy Magazine,  Kennel Club Books (November 2, 2010)
  • Siberian Husky: A Comprehensive Guide to Owning and Caring for Your Dog, By Lorna Winslette, Kennel Club Books; Revised edition (August 16, 2011)
  • Siberian Husky Club of Victoria Inc, Prey Drive, retrieved from the web on August 5th, 2016


Can Dogs Get a Concussion?

by

A dog may sometimes bump his head on a coffee table producing quite an alarming sound that may concern the dog owner, but then the dog shakes his head once or twice and is back to normal romping around as if nothing ever happened. Sigh of relief for the dog owner…. “phewww.” At one point though one may wonder: can dogs get a concussion like humans do when they hit their heads? If so, what would be the signs of a concussion in dogs and what can be done about it? Today, we will be discovering more about concussions in dogs and what veterinarians say about them.

dog concussionHead Concussions in Dogs

The term concussion comes from the Latin word “concutere” which means to “shake violently.” Also known as brain injury, head injury or head trauma, dogs are also susceptible to head concussions just as humans are. Fortunately though dogs tend to have quite a thick skull that makes them less likely to suffer from major damage when hitting their head against a table or chair, explains veterinarian Dr. Fiona.

In a normal, healthy dog, the brain is protected by a think skull and is surrounded by cerebrospinal fluid which is meant to further protect the brain from light trauma.

In severe impacts though, the cushioning effect may not suffix to protect the brain and the brain may suffer from swelling or hemorrhage which can lead to significant problems.

Common causes of serious head traumas in dogs are being kicked by horses, falling, being hit by a car or a blow to the head such as from a baseball bat.

“In my 16 yrs of practice, I have never met even one dog or cat who did serious damage to themselves by hitting a table of chair or other object. Fortunately, the skull is very strong, and the worst I have ever seen has been a tender bump for 1 – 2 days.” Dr. Fiona

Symptoms of Severe Head Trauma

A severe blow to the head, can alter the brain’s physiology leading to several complications under the form of metabolic changes including abnormal glucose levels, electrolyte imbalances and acid-base disturbances which can last even up to several weeks. Fortunately, these effects are often reversible, but according to studies performed on animals, a large numbers of neurons may sustain tissue damage and die.

Following a serious concussion, a dog may therefore develop a variety of symptoms such as altered state of consciousness, pupils of unequal sizes, stiff or flaccid legs, staggering gait, abnormal eye movements, tilted head, blood loss from ear canal or from the nose and breathing changes. Sometimes dogs may also develop vomiting following a blow to the head. According to a study, it was found that dogs who sustained a head trauma had a higher chance for developing seizures, especially in the immediate or early post-traumatic period.

In dogs, it is possible to have different levels of consciousness which can be classified into 4  distinct levels: 1) responsive, in other words, a bright and alert dog 2) depressed, in other words, a lethargic dog, but still responsive when stimulated 3) semi-comatose, in other words a significantly depressed dog, up to a point where vigorous stimulation is required to get a response 4) comatose, in other words, an unconscious  dog who doesn’t respond to stimulation, no matter how vigorous.

“You’d be surprised how much force it takes to really cause head trauma in a dog. Just hitting her head on a coffee table may cause a bit of a bump and some pain but I would not worry about any brain trauma. Worst case scenario that there is head trauma, these are the signs you’d look for- different size pupils, difficulty walking, muscle tremors, seizures. If you notice any of those, then she should be seen right away.” ~Dr. Gary

dog pain goes away at the vetTreatment 

While with minor bumps one can monitor the dog and report to the vet if noticing signs of trouble, when a severe concussion is suspected, it’s important to seek the vet as soon as possible as brain swelling can occur even hours after the accident. Best to play is safe and see the vet if in any doubt. Because dogs don’t share the same brain functions as humans, (eg fine motor movements, speech) it can be challenging at times to determine whether the dog’s brain has been affected. However, vets can derive hints from potential damage by looking at the dog’s balance, gait, eyes and overall level of alertness.

The vet will therefore carefully examine the dog by checking the dog’s pupil response to light (pupils should change size) and by performing a neurological evaluation. X-rays or a CT scan can be helpful to assess whether there are any fractures of the skull or spinal cord and signs or presence of brain injury. If there are signs of problems, the vet may provide pain relievers, intravenous fluids and medications meant to reduce swelling of the brain (mannitol).

“Head injuries can worsen significantly over the first 24-48 hours after the accident as swelling and bleeding increase within the cranium.”~  Dr. Laura Devlin

Did you know? Traumatic brain injury is quite common in cats, but in dogs not so much and this is because of the dog’s heavy temporal musculature and thick skull, explains veterinarian Michael Schaer, in the book “Clinical Medicine of the Dog and Cat, Second Edition.”

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If you suspect your dog has a concussion or some other type of head trauma, please see your vet immediately  for proper diagnosis and treatment.

References:

  • Friedenberg SG, Butler AL, Wei L, et al. Seizures following head trauma in dogs: 259 cases (1999-2009). J Am Vet Med Assoc 2012;241(11):1479-1483.
  • Clinical Medicine of the Dog and Cat, Second Edition 2nd Edition, by Michael Schaer, CRC Press; 2 edition (October 23, 2009)
  • Pet Place, Head Trauma in Dogs, retrieved from the web on August 4th, 2016

Dog Word of the Day: Capturing

by

 

When it comes to dog training, there are several methods that can be used to “get behaviors.” Because training a dog should be fun and aim to creating a foundation of trust, empathy and mutual respect, the best training methods entail no fear or intimidation. Capturing can be particularly useful for shy, tentative dogs or for a new puppy who needs to learn some basics. It is also one of the easiest ways to train for the novice owner because there are no prompts or food lures to fade. So let’s discover more about capturing, how it works, its advantages and disadvantages and when this training method can be particularly useful.

capturingWhat is Capturing in Dog Training?

Capturing in dog training entails rewarding spontaneous, natural behaviors as they unfold. In a sort of way, it’s similar to the art of taking pictures. When you hold a camera, you “capture” moments in present life that you like so that you can then look at them later. In capturing, we are marking and rewarding desired behaviors our dogs perform the moment they happen. If you can take pictures, you can train your dog by capturing. All you need to do is to observe your dog, wait for the desired behavior to happen, and then “mark” it with a click of the clicker or a verbal marker such as “yes.” The click of the clicker or verbal marker “yes” works in a similar fashion as the shutter button of the camera. It informs the dog that that is the exact behavior we want and that a treat is on its way.

Examples of Capturing 

Need some examples on how to use capturing to train a dog? Here are a few examples. Since we are rewarding spontaneous behaviors as they unfold, it can sometimes take a bit of time for the dog to perform them, but we sometimes use a little bit of help to make them more likely to happen. For instance, if we want to capture a down, we can simply coordinate the time when this is more likely to happen with our training sessions. So a good time would be when we exercised our dog or went on a walk and our dog is a tad bit tired. We can therefore sit on the couch and wait for our dog to lie down spontaneously. As soon as our dog lies down, we can then mark the behavior with the click of the clicker or verbal marker “yes!” followed by a treat. To increase the likeliness for the dog to lie down again, we can toss the treat at a distance so the dog must get up to get it.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Another example of using capturing is to train a dog to take a bow. In this case, we will be simply waiting for the dog to take a bow spontaneously, such as when the dog wakes up first thing after taking a nap or when he invites us to play with him. Even in this case, we can coordinate our training  session with when our dog is likely to get up from a nap or when he’s in the mood for playing. Upon taking a bow, right the moment those elbows touch the floor and the dog’s rump is in the air, we would therefore click the clicker or use our verbal marker “yes!” As with capturing a dog to lie down, we will then toss the treat at a distance so the dog must get up to get it and hopefully increase the likeliness for the dog to perform another play bow.

Capturing can be used to train puppies!
Capturing can be used to train puppies!

Advantages of Using Capturing

Capturing is a training method that offers several advantages.  As mentioned, one big advantage is that it is really easy to implement for the person doing the training. All you need to do is wait for the behavior to occur and then be ready to mark it and reward it. Since reinforced behaviors tend to strengthen and repeat, at some point you will notice that your dog will start performing the behavior more and more. From spontaneous, the behavior therefore starts becoming more  and more purposeful, which means that at some point you’ll have the chance to put it on cue, by simply naming the behavior right the moment your dog is about to perform the behavior and then marking and rewarding it.

Capturing is also advantageous for certain types of dogs dogs. Sometimes, you may stumble on shy dogs who have a bit of space issues and cringe if you loom over them or place your hands near their faces. Using capturing, you can keep a certain distance from the dog and the dog can learn to perform the behavior because the behavior has overtime accumulated a history of rewards. At the same time, courtesy of reward-based methods such as capturing, the dog’s confidence levels may rise and the dog may learn to trust more the caregiver as he or she becomes a source of rewards. A win-win! Last but not least, capturing works well for training certain unusual behaviors that can otherwise be difficult to get, such as a  getting a dog to shake his fur, tilt his head, stretch and even yawn!’

” The neat thing about this method is that it is particularly useful in teaching the dog to perform activities that are difficult or impossible to enforce.” ~Stanley Coren

clickerDisadvantages of Using Capturing

There are not many disadvantages in using capturing for training dogs, but one main one is (depending on which behavior is desired) that it may take some time for the behavior to occur spontaneously.  Some people refer to capturing as tedious as “watching paint dry,” but as mentioned, we can keep track as to when certain behaviors are more likely to unfold so to take advantage of these times and coordinate them with our training sessions. It may also sometimes take a bit of time for the dog to realize that “every time, I perform this exact behavior I get rewarded.” The dog may not be sure about exactly which behavior he’s being rewarded for so he may start offering certain behaviors as if asking “is this what you’re looking for? or it it this one?” If it is not, one should just ignore it, but if it is,  it’s imperative to make a great deal about it, by marking, praising, and perhaps, giving a jackpot of treats!

Another disadvantage of capturing is that if you’re looking for cutting-edge training, you will have to carry the clicker and treats around with you for some time, but the good news is that this is only in the initial stages of learning. Why? For the simple fact that you don’t want to miss out on the opportunity to mark and reward spontaneous behaviors unfolding when you least expect them such as out of the training context. So simply carry a treat bag on your belt and put that clicker on a lanyard around your neck, so that you’ll never miss out an opportunity to reward! Last but not least, a disadvantage of capturing is that it’s limited to spontaneous behaviors, and therefore, can’t be used to train dogs certain complex behaviors such as stacking rings, getting a tissue paper out of a box or placing toys into a basket.

“If the dog never offers the behavior you want, capturing could take forever!” ~ Pat Miller

The Bottom Line

As seen, capturing is a great training method that can be used to train dogs to sit, lie down and perform a variety of obedience exercises. It can even be used to train certain tricks and train dogs to go potty on cue. Capturing can also be used for behavior modification as in the case of capturing calm behaviors such as lying down rather than pacing around or capturing those pauses of silence in between barking in reactive dogs. While there are just a few disadvantages in using capturing to train dogs, as seen they can easily be overcome by using some effective strategies.

 

References:

  • The Power of Positive Training, by Pat Miller, Howell Book House; 2 edition (April 1, 2008)
  • Psychology Today, Dog Training Using Behavior Capture, by Stanley Coren, retrieved from the web on August 3rd, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • Clicker-training clickers come in various shapes and forms.Taken by Elf | Talk Sept 17 ’04 – Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons. Transfer was stated to be made by User:Syp. CC BY-SA 3.0

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

What Were Turnspit Dogs Bred For?

by

 

Throughout the years, dogs have been selectively bred to perform several tasks, some of those tasks being quite noble, (just think of messenger dogs and search and rescue dogs) while others, well, less so. The turnspit dog is now extinct, but this dog seemed to play quite a big role in many British kitchens of the 16th century. Short-legged, and with a long body, the turnspit dog was also known as the “kitchen dog” or “vernepator cur.” Can you guess for what main task these dogs were used for?

What were turnspit dogs bred for?

A) To carry a cart filled with meat ready to be roasted

B) To lick off any meat grease dropped on the kitchen floors

C) To run on a wheel in order to cook meat evenly

D) To guard any roasted meat from potential mice

The correct answer is: drum roll please…..

drum

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

 

The correct answer is: C, to run on a wheel in order to cook meat evenly.

turnspit dogThe Kitchen Helper

Back in the 16th century, the kitchens of the British were a far cry from what they look like today. Back in those days, roasting a piece of meat wasn’t an easy task. While today, we just put the meat in a tray and stick it into the oven, or even better, use a rotisserie to obtain a perfectly cooked meal, in the olden days meat was quite vulnerable to being cooked unevenly due to the unpredictable action of an open fire.

So why not put a dog to work and turn him into a handy helper? The idea turned into reality and soon a hollow wheel was invented (somewhat resembling a hamster wheel) and in the wheel was placed the turnspit dog.  The wheel was then mounted on a wall or suspended from joists so that these dogs were not overheated and as the dog ran in he wheel, the spit turned. Since the task was sometimes quite tiring, a second dog was often used so to give relief at regular intervals.

idea tipDid you know? Linnaeus originally classified the turnspit dog in the eighteenth century as “canis vertigus,” basically, “dizzy dogs.”.

 

More Than a Kitchen Utensilturnspit dog

Originally known as “turnespete,” turnspit dog were described as  small dogs having a long body, crooked legs and a sort of unhappy look on their faces. It’s not too difficult imagining why these dogs looked unhappy. Being exposed to the sight and smell of slowly cooking meat for a good part of the day must have felt frustrating. They were also likely hot and dehydrated.

On top of turning meat, these dogs were also often used in a similar fashion for churning butter, pumping water and operating grain mills and fruit presses, explains Stanley Coren in the book “The Pawprints of History: Dogs and the Course of Human Events.” And on Sundays, many of these dogs were brought along to church, but not for companionship, mostly so they could act as foot warmers on a cold winter day.

Unfortunately, literature provides some insights about these dogs being treated very poorly, so much that it appears that the treatment of turnspit dogs is what may have partially inspired Henry Berg to become the founder of the ASPCA. On a brighter note, some literature seems to suggest that when not used as kitchen utensils, some of these dogs were well cared for. John Bradshaw in the great book “Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You A Better Friend to Your Pet” mentions these dogs were given names and one lucky turnspit dog, going by the name of Fuddle, even got a poem written in his honor.

idea tipDid you know? The exact ancestry of the turnspit remains still a mystery, but many believe that it might have played a role in the development of the dachshund breed, while others think it might have been related with the Welsh corgi or some type of terrier such as the Glen of Imaal.

An Extinct Dog

The use of the turnspit dog was quite in vogue in the mid-sixteenth century, but then with the introduction of mechanical devices, this dog remained unemployed and eventually became extinct. The extinction of these dogs though wasn’t abrupt. Even with the invention of mechanical devices, the British seemed to prefer using these dogs. The continued use of these dogs despite the availability of more efficient methods to roast meat, may reflect an affectionate attitude towards these dogs rather than a reluctance to welcome newer technology, suggests Bradshaw. At some point though, their use in inns, restaurants and taverns in Europe and even in some areas in the United States ran out of favor. It was some time around the mid-nineteenth century  that turnspit dogs became history.

idea tipDid you know? Prior to using turnspit dogs, a servant, preferably a boy known as the “spit boy” or “spit jack,” would be used for turning the metal rod slowly and cooking the meat.

 

Curious about how turnspit dogs looked like? Here is a picture of a taxidermied turnspit dog from the Abergavenny Museum in Wales: turnspit dog.

 

References:

  • American Kennel Club (2007). The Complete Dog Book (20th ed.). Random House. p. 467. ISBN 978-0-307-41699-5
  • Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You A Better Friend to Your Pet Paperback – May 8, 2012 by John Bradshaw, Basic Books; Reprint edition (May 8, 2012)
  • The Pawprints of History: Dogs and the Course of Human Events, By Stanley Coren, Atria Books; Reprint edition (April 2, 2003)
  • Our Debt to the Dog: How the Domestic Dog Helped Shape Human Societies, By Bryan D. Cummins, Carolina Academic Press (April 16, 2013)
  • The World of the American Revolution: A Daily Life Encyclopedia edited by Merril D. Smith Ph.D. Greenwood (August 28, 2015)
  • The Kitchen Sisters “Turnspit Dogs: The Rise and Fall of the Vernepator Cur”. The Salt. Retrieved August 2nd, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • Wikipedia, Remarks on a Tour to North and South Wales, published in 1800, public domain
  • Wikipedia, H Weir – Rev JG Wood, Illustrated Natural History, Published USA pre-1923, public domain

 

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]