July 2016 - Page 3 of 4 - Daily Dog Discoveries

I am Your Dog’s Esophagus

July 12, 2016July 11, 2016 by Admin

A dog’s esophagus is similar in many ways to the human esophagus. After all, it’s just a tube connecting the mouth to the stomach. However, don’t think of this tube as something very simple, the esophagus is quite a sophisticated piece of machinery considering how much it’s used on a daily basis. As other structures of the dog’s body, the esophagus can also be prone to some problems which are quite similar to certain conditions occurring in humans. So today, let’s get more acquainted with the dog’s esophagus, what it looks like, how it functions and things that may go wrong.

Introducing Your Dog’s Esophagus

Hello, it’s your dog’s esophagus talking! As mentioned, I am a muscular tube-like structure. You see, when your dog eats, food travels from his mouth, to the pharynx and then though me all the way down to his stomach. For this reason, I am also called “food pipe.”

I am nicely lined with moist pink tissue called mucosa and I have two two muscular sphincters one at the top and one at the bottom.

My upper esophageal sphincter is made of a bundle of muscles (cricopharyngeal muscle) which open when food is swallowed and close the esophagus when food is not being swallowed, while my lower esophageal sphincter is made of a bundle of muscles which open to allow food to reach the stomach and close to prevent your dog’s stomach acids from making their way back up.

My main goal is to deliver food to your dog’s stomach.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

I Deliver Food

When you think of me as a simple tube that transports food from point A to point B, think again. First of all, I have to make sure that the food your dog eats is delivered to the right pipe. Yes, because failure to do so means your dog will choke as “food goes down the wrong pipe. ” You see, when your dog swallows, about 30 different muscles spring into action in a split second. As in humans, when food travels down, there are only two pipe options, me the esophagus (food pipe) and my neighbor, the larynx, which leads to the trachea (wind pipe) and the lungs.

When your dog swallows correctly, food travels down me and reaches the stomach, courtesy of the epiglottis which tilts backwards closing off access to the larynx and preventing food from entering the “wrong pipe,” that is, the trachea. At the same time the epiglottis closes, my upper esophageal sphincter relaxes and opens up allowing the bolus of chewed food to reach me. Then, a series of muscles work together to move the bolus of food towards the stomach. This all occurs courtesy of my muscles which move in a wave-like fashion which is referred to as “peristalsis.” Now, my lower sphincter relaxes and opens up allowing entry to the dog’s stomach. Of course, this is what happens when all goes well. Below you will see what happens instead when things go wrong.

Going Down the Wrong Pipe

While the epiglottis and I work hard in preventing food from entering the wrong pipe, sometimes things beyond our control may happen. If we think of it, it’s not very easy for us and for dogs to breath in air and swallow food at the same time.

If a dog eats too fast or doesn’t pay attention to swallowing carefully, a particle of food may end up being aspirated into the trachea. Yes, this is what really happens when food goes down the wrong pipe!

Luckily, your dog’s coughing reflex will kick in and soon things will go back to normal. The cough reflex is so effective in clearing the airway that sometimes your dog may cough and you’ll see a piece of kibble flying out of his mouth (and your dog will happily pick it up and ingest it again, yay, jackpot!)

Even though dogs may not choke too often, it’s not a bad idea to learn how to do the Heimlich maneuver on dogs too.

Cricopharyngeal Achalasia

Remember how I mentioned how my cricopharyngeal muscle opens when food is around and closes when it’s not? Well, sometimes this muscle may not relax and open up enough to allow the passage of food. Generally, according to Merck Veterinary Manual this is due to an inherited defect, meaning that it’s passed down genetically, but in some instances, this condition can occur in adult dogs without a history of being predisposed to it genetically. This neuromuscular disorder may cause dogs to have a hard time swallowing solid foods and liquids and may lead to complications such as gagging, regurgitation and even aspiration pneumonia, where food or liquids are accidentally inhaled into the lungs. Fortunately, this condition can be treated through corrective surgery.

Enlarged Esophagus

Sometimes, there are problems with my muscles responsible for producing those important wave-like motions that allow delivery of food from me to your dog’s stomach. When this happens I stretch and lose muscle tone and dogs develop what is known as “megaesophagus.” This translates into the poor affected dogs having quite a hard time. With the food having a hard time reaching the stomach, it lingers by me and decays or is eventually regurgitated. Unlike vomiting, when a dog regurgitates, food will come out passively with little effort and will appear as if just chewed up. Often, repeated regurgitation in dogs is a tell-take sign of this condition. A risk associated with megaesophagus is aspiration pneumonia which may occur when food sits too long around me and it’s accidentally inhaled by the dog’s lungs. To prevent this from happening, dog owners may feed small portions and keep their dogs in a sitting position for around 10 minutes using what’s known as a Bailey chair for megaesophagus. My lack of muscle motion can sometimes be due to an underlying condition known myasthenia gravis, a neuromuscular disease causing weakness in various parts of the dog’s body.

Inflammation of the Esophagus

Sometimes, I may get inflamed and dogs may develop a condition known as esophagitis. This can happen when I am exposed to to stomach acids or the dog ingests some foreign object that causes me trauma. I can also sometimes get inflamed from ingestion of certain drugs. If this ever happens, your vet will treat your dog based on the underlying cause. For example, if stomach acids were making me irritated, medications meant to reduce stomach acid may help. Your vet may also recommend feeding several meals throughout the day. In severe cases though, a stomach tube which bypasses me, may be needed to provide the dog nutrition.

Narrowing Esophagus

Sometimes I can become narrow after some sort of trauma, exposure to toxins or repeated inflammation and reflux of stomach acids. When this happens, affected dogs may regurgitate, drool and have problems swallowing and pain. In this case, I may need intervention so that I can be stretched out through some sort of balloon-shaped catheter that widens me or some other type of surgery.

Foreign Items in Esophagus

Some dogs will eat the oddest things, and it’s not that unusual for things to get stuck in my narrow passages. Fish hooks, pieces of rawhide, toys and other objects sometimes get stuck in me causing a an esophageal blockage. Since food sometimes cannot make it past me, affected dogs will drool, gag, swallow repeatedly and regurgitate. It’s important to see the vet sooner than later as things can get worse later on. Once at the vet, the vet may retrieve the object using an endoscope with an extension meant to grasp it and remove it.

As seen, I do a whole lot but I can also get into trouble as well. Thankfully, cancer will rarely affect me. According to Pet Cancer Center, cancer of the esophagus accounts for less than 0.5% of all cancer affecting dogs. However, it’s important to see your vet as soon as you notice any signs of problems with me such as trouble swallowing and regurgitation. Your vet can check me out using an endoscope which entails the insertion of a flexible tube that has a small camera that allows him to visualize what may be going on. So please don’t forget about me and keep me in mind every time your dog effortlessly swallows those tasty treats!

Respectfully yours,

Your dog’s esophagus

Did you know? In dogs, the esophageal muscles are entirely striated (which means they are under voluntary control) so that they can voluntary regurgitate to feed their young.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If you suspect your dog is suffering from some form of esophageal problem, please wee your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

References:

Hume, C. Edward Stevens, Ian D. (2005). Comparative physiology of the vertebrate digestive system (1st pbk. ed.). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. p. 15.
Merck Veterinary Manual, Disorders of the Esophagus in Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 11th, 2016.
Wikipedia, Esophagus, retrieved from the web on July 11th, 2016.

Photo Credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, Eric M, Yip Begging CCBY.2.0
A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Why is My Younger Dog Attacking My Older, Sick Dog?

July 10, 2016July 10, 2016 by Admin

Some dog owners may stumble upon problems with their younger dogs attacking older, sick dogs. Many times, the owners are very concerned because the older, sick dog may not be able to defend himself and this can lead to serious injuries. Often, there is a history of the dogs getting along well for many years, up until the older dog started getting sick and weak which coincides with the onset of the attacks. What is happening here? Many dog owners may assume that there’s sort of “survival of the fittest” phenomenon going on or that younger dogs “attack” just because they detect signs of “weakness,” but there are chances that there may be other dynamics going on that may be missed when dog behavior is categorized under such broad umbrella concepts. This article will tackle some possible causes for scuffles and fights between younger dogs and older, sick and weakened dogs.

“Leave Me Alone” Signals

As dogs get older, they may weaken and have mobility issues which can have an impact on their relationship with the other dogs. While when they were younger they could simply move away to remove themselves from a situation they weren’t comfortable with, now they may be forced to use other more impactive forms of communication such as growling or snarling.

Physical ailments in older dogs may also lower their threshold for aggression making them more likely to choose aggressive behaviors over ritualized social signals meant to avoid conflict. An older dog who never had a problem with a young dog placing his paw over a shoulder in a rude yet, playful manner may now react aggressively due to arthritic pain. While many young dogs can adapt and learn to respect more the new boundaries set by the elderly pet, some young dogs may have difficulty coping with these changes affecting what was previously a predictable relationship, explain veterinary behaviorists Debra Horwitz and Gary Landsberg in an article for VCA Animal Hospital.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

“Arthritis can stimulate pain aggression. A push on the shoulders or the rump or a small child landing on a dog with arthritis or dysplasia may cause pain and could cause pain aggression.” ~Karen Overall

Failure to Properly Read Dogs

Dogs often resolve conflict through facial expressions and body postures. Problems though may start when, on top of being weak, sick or having mobility issues, older dogs start suffering from sensory decline. No longer able to see well or hear well, these dogs may fail to properly read the social signals of younger dogs. Older dogs may also develop cognitive changes associated with Canine Cognitive Dysfunction which can also cause them to be “zoned out'” which can sometimes put them into conflicting situations when they fail to properly read social signals from other dogs and respond to them appropriately.

“Fighting of a younger dog toward a dog that is aging or ill may be a function of the inability of the older dog to respond with appropriate postures and signaling when interacting with the younger dog. This may lead to a change in their predictable relationship.” ~Debra Horwitz, DVM and Gary Landsberg

Fighting Over Resources

In some cases, the younger dog may reach social maturity (which generally takes place between the age of 12 and 36 months) and may attempt to change the way resources are handled. In this case, scuffles arise from the younger dog becoming more and more protective over resources. Everything may go smoothly when the older dog surrenders access to resources, but problems may arise when when the older dog fails to relinquish resources. Owners may unintentionally exacerbate the conflict by intervening and supporting the dog which is more “suitable” for surrendering access to resources.

Another dynamic that may occur is that the owners may baby the older dog more and more as he requires more attention and care due to medical reasons, evoking conflicts since the owner’s attention may be also perceived as a “resource” to guard. According to a study on aggression in dogs of the same household conducted by researchers Kathryn Wrubel, Alice Moon-Fanelli, Louise Maranda, and Nicholas Dodman, the actions of the owner such as paying attention to one dog rather than the other, triggered aggressive behaviors in 46 percent of the studied pairs.

“Challenges may be active and involve food, rawhides, toys, attention or access to any of the aforementiined, or passive and involve posturing and the ability to manipulate the trajectory and behaviors of the other dog.” ~ Karen Overall

Signs of Illness

In some cases, vocalizations emitted by the older dog can be a trigger for a fight. It’s not unusual for an older dog to yelp in pain from an orthopedic or spinal problem or whine repeatedly due to cognitive changes. In several dogs, these distressing types of vocalizations startle them causing them to become more alert and even rush over and check on the injured dog. To some young, easy-to-arouse dogs though, such vocalizations may cause them to get anxious which can lead to an attack to the older dog. In such scenarios, it’s important to separate both dogs and have the older dog checked out for better pain control and management of neurological or cognitive disorders.

A young dog suddenly attacking an older dog despite the older dog not vocalizing may also warrant a thorough veterinary visit. The younger dog may be suffering from a medical condition that can cause behavior changes that evoke aggression (an example is hypothyroidism). There are also chances that the older dog may be suffering an undetected illness of which the younger dog may have recognized subtle signs of illness. Dogs have proven over and over to us that they can detect early signs of diseases in humans so it wouldn’t be surprising if they could do the same with other dogs, even though their response may seem to us inappropriate based on context.

The Onset of Seizures

Some young dogs may attack older dogs when they are having seizures. Many veterinary hospitals witness this. A dog owners bring in a dog with bite injuries delivered by another dog while the dog had a seizure. In this case, there are chances that these dogs are simply responding to something that they cannot fully understand or something they somewhat find somewhat distressing or threatening. When a dog has a seizure, it can be a very scary experience to witness for dog owners, but dog owners understand what is happening when dogs most likely do not. If your older dog is prone to seizures and you have other dogs in the house, it’s best to play it safe and confine your epileptic dog away from the other dogs.

“Even if your other dogs have never been aggressive toward your epileptic dog during a seizure, you cannot predict what will happen every time you are not present. “~ WB Thomas, Dipl. ACVIM Neurology.

What to Do

There is really no remedy against aging and the best approach is to implement management strategies so to keep the younger dog and older dog safe. Keeping both dogs together is risky as aggressive behaviors are more likely to to escalate rather than get better on their own. In feasible cases where there are good chances the older dog will recover from a temporary illness, it may be helpful to enlist the services of a professional trainer/ behavior consultants who uses positive reinforcement methods and can provide guidance on how to implement management techniques and help resolve the conflict through humane behavior modification.

Disclaimer: The above are just a few examples of the dynamics that may go on in a household of older dogs and younger dogs. If your younger dog is fighting with your older, sick dog, please play it safe and implement safe management techniques and/or consult with a behavior professional.

References:

VCA Animal Hospital: Why would dogs fight with a familiar dog living in the same home?,retrieved from the web on July 10th, 2016
Clinical Behavioral Medicine For Small Animals, 1e 1st Edition, by Karen L. Overall. Mosby; 1 edition (January 15, 1997)
Kathryn M. Wrubel, Alice A. Moon-Fanelli, Louise S. Maranda, and Nicholas H. Dodman (2011). Interdog household aggression:38 cases (2006–2007). Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, 238, 731–740

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Surprise, Dogs Can be Lactose Intolerant Too

March 15, 2022July 9, 2016 by Admin

Can dogs drink milk? Is it OK to give my dog some milk every once in a while? Well, if we ask our dogs, most of them will readily gulp down dairy products like there’s no tomorrow, but it’s ultimately up to us to make sure the things we feed our dogs won’t harm them. We think of milk as a natural substance that comes from the udders of a cow, so we therefore may automatically assume that there’s no harm in feeding it to our dogs. After all, wasn’t milk the first thing puppies were given by their moms when they were first born? Well, things become somewhat different as puppies grow and bloom into adulthood.

Mom’s Milk is Best…

There’s no doubt that mother’s milk is the best form of nutrition when puppies are in the neonatal stage and the initial infant stage. After an average 63-day long gestation, a batch of puppies is finally born. Despite the fact that, as an altricial species, puppies are born blind, deaf and unable to regulate their temperatures, they are drawn to the warmth and smell of mother dog and begin suckling milk with vigor. It’s very important puppies do so in the first 24 hours as that’s when mother dog produces “colostrum,“a special yellow-gold “milk” rich in antibodies that provides the pups with enough passive immunity to survive those early weeks of life when they’re most vulnerable to infectious diseases.

After the colostrum is readily absorbed by the the pup’s porous stomach, puppies will then transition to the regular milk mother dog starts producing after the colostrum supply has been depleted. Puppies will therefore exclusively feed on their mother’s milk for their first 3 to 4 weeks of age up until they start being weaned. Around this onset of weaning, puppies start developing sharp teeth and nursing can turn painful for mother dog who will become more and more reluctant to nurse them, and who can blame her? Mother dog’s reluctance to nurse paves the path to weaning, and since this time frame also coincides to when the puppies are mobile and more eager to explore their surroundings, this turns out being an optimal time for the breeder to introduce soft foods so the pups can be completely weaned. Most puppies are weaned by the time they are 6 to 8 weeks old.

But Cow Milk is A Different Story.

Among many species of mammals, humans are the only on the planet who keep on consuming milk past childhood, remarks Aaron E. Carroll, a professor of pediatrics at Indiana University School of Medicine. Dogs and cats are an exception to this rule because we are the ones providing them milk (usually cow milk), but left in a natural environment, without human intervention, milk would be not be part of these animals’ diet. Indeed, once puppies are weaned, a mother dog’s milk bar will close once and for all. Chapter closed.

Once puppies are weaned though, and they are sent to their new homes, milk may make a comeback into their lives when they start living alongside humans, but cow milk is a far cry from the milk mother dog produced. The constituents of mother milk vary from one species to another and milk from cows is very different than mother dog’s milk; indeed, according to Dr. Foster and Smith, cow milk contains about 5 percent lactose while dog milk milk contains a mere 3.7 percent. Cow milk also contains lower percentages of protein and fat which makes it unsuitable as a puppy milk replacer.

“Cow’s and goat’s milk do not contain as much fat, protein, or calories as milk from queens and (mother dogs) therefore should be avoided.” ~Wills and Morris, 1996

Loss of Enzymes

On top of cow milk being different, one must consider that as puppies grow, they lose their ability to digest milk. Mother dog milk is rich in lactose, and, to properly digest it, the lining of the puppy’s intestinal tract secretes “lactase” a special enzyme meant to break down lactose into two easily digested and absorbed simple sugars, galactose and glucose. Things, change though once the puppies are weaned. As the puppies mature, and are introduced to solid foods, their production of lactase gradually decreases, and therefore lactose won’t be broken down as before, making puppies more prone to developing digestive problems such as flatulence, diarrhea, and stomach pains as early as a few hours after consumption. According to Dr. Cristina Russo, biophysicist and science writer, most mammals gradually loose the ability to digest milk after being weaned, a process that generally starts as early as 16 weeks.

“Lactose intolerance is present in many adult dogs and cats. This condition is due to lack of the brush border enzyme lactase. Lactose can no longer be digested and will instead be fermented by members of the gastrointestinal microbiota, leading to clinical signs such as bloating, flatulence, and diarrhea.” ~ Jörg M. Steiner DACVIM

Can Dogs Have Milk Then?

Can dogs drink milk then or is it something that should be scraped off the list of things dogs can eat? Of course, milk is not a toxin and therefore you won’t find it on the list of products poisonous to dogs, but it can cause enough problems to top the list as one of those thing to avoid giving to puppies and dogs. Other than diarrhea and flatulence, in some dogs, cow’s milk can cause also cramps and nausea. Symptoms of lactose intolerance in dogs can be seen as early as 30 to 120 minutes after ingesting milk or a dairy product that contains lactose, explains board-certified veterinary nutritionist, Dr. Rebecca Remillard.

On top of causing digestive issues in dogs who are lactose intolerant, milk can be problematic in dogs with certain medical conditions. For instance, some dogs may be allergic to dairy. A common cliché is dog owners feeding their dogs a bowl of milk or a scoop of ice-cream to their dogs who won’t eat, only to make matters worse as this can trigger a bout of pancreatitis in dogs predisposed to it, explains veterinarian Mike Richards. Also, some medications are not meant to be taken with dairy, so it’s always a good practice to carefully read all leaflets and labels associated with certain medications.

“Cow’s milk averages 5% lactose. In some people (and dogs) that have lost the ability to digest milk sugar (loss of the lactase enzyme with age), lactose may cause intestinal upset (gas, cramp, pain, diarrhea and nausea) 30 to 120 minutes after consuming a dairy product containing lactose.” Dr. Remillard, Veterinary Nutritionist.

Sure this doesn’t mean that all dogs will develop digestive problems after consuming milk. How a dog reacts to dairy seems to vary on an individual basis, depending on the capability of digesting lactose and the type or quantity of milk ingested. Some dairy products may also be easier to tolerate than others due to lower lactose content. According to Vet Info, cow milk is not an essential nutrient for the dog’s diet, and while it’s true that milk is rich in calcium, dogs can get their calcium from other sources. However, if a dog is not allergic or intolerant to lactose and enjoys milk and dairy products, these can be given as part of the diet, but as always moderation is key.

Did you know? The continued ability to digest milk into adulthood due to persistent activity of the enzyme lactase is known as “lactase persistence.”

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary or nutritional advice. If you have any questions or concerns about your dog consuming milk or dairy products, consult with your vet or veterinary nutritionist.

References:

Pet Education, The Make Up of Milk, retrieved from the web on July 9th, 2016
New York Times, Got Milk? Might Not Be Doing You Much Good, retrieved from the web on July 9th, 2016
DVM360, Adverse Food Reactions, Proceedings, retrieved from the web on July 9th, 2016
Dogs on Ice. Lactase Persistence, retrieved from the web on July 9th, 2016
Vet Info, Should Give a Dog Milk? retrieved from the web on July 9th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr Creative Commons, Taro the Shiba Inu, Taro the shiba, extra milk pics 9. CC BY2.0
Flickr, Creative Commons, Randy Heinitz, Visions of Sugar Plums, CC BY 2.0

Eight Interesting Facts About Dog Nails

September 6, 2016July 8, 2016 by Admin

You notice your dog’s nails when it’s time to trim them, and whether your dog dreads those pedicures or not, you may have never really given those nails much thought other than when they’re making a clicking sound when your dog walks. Dog nails though are more than just sharp protrusion from your dog’s paws. They are there for many reasons and there are many things to discover about them. So for those folks eager to quench their thirst for canine knowledge, here are some interesting facts about dog nails just waiting to be discovered.

1) Dog Nails Come in Different Colors

Just like horse hooves, dog nails can come in different colors. Generally, the color of the nail varies based on the color of the surrounding skin and hair. White fur usually comes with white nails, while brown and black fur comes with black nails. In some cases, dog nails may be bi-color, featuring different colors on the same nail, as seen in the picture. Sometimes, dog owners may report changes in their dog’s nail color, such as a dog’s black nails becoming pale. When this happens, it can be simply a sign that the cells responsible for causing pigment (melanocytes) aren’t producing any pigment for some reason, explains veterinarian Roger L. Welton. While these color changes may be normal, they can sometimes signify a health problem so should be brought to a vet’s attention.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

2) Dog Nails Have an Extended Quick

Ever wondered why dogs hate nail trims so much? Well for starters, they might not be used to having their feet handled, and secondly, they might be also scared of the noisy tools. In some cases though it could be these dogs got their quick accidentally cut on one occasion and they are aware of how painful that can be.

What is a dog’s quick? Just like humans, a dog’s nail is made of keratin – a protein made of dead cells, but unlike us, dogs have several nerves and blood vessels (which compose the quick) that extend into the nail. While us humans also have a “quick,” our quick stops at our finger tips while in dogs the quick extends into the nail causing bleeding and lots of pain when it’s accidentally cut.

3) Dog Nails Can Stay Short Naturally

How often you need to trim your dog’s nails may vary based on how much activity your dog gets. Just think about it: in the wild, canines don’t ever require a nail trim for the simple fact that they are often walking and digging and putting those nails to good use. Many working dogs who are on their feet for a good part of their day may also rarely need a nail trim. If your dog is running, walking and playing outside on rough surfaces for a good part of his day, there are chances that his nails will wear down naturally as the constant pressure makes the dog’s nail quick recede which leads to short nails. Be careful though not to overdo it with dogs who are not used to being exercised on hard asphalt; this may lead to blisters and abrasions, warns St. Bernard’s Animal Medical Center.

4) Dog Nails in Back Paws May Not Need Trimmed

If your dog hates nail trims, count your blessings: in most cases if your dog is active and walks on abrasive surfaces, you may have to limit those dreaded nail trims to the front paws only. Indeed, a dog’s back claws are generally short, sometimes requiring little to no trimming. Why is that? It’s due to how the back legs are used compared to the front. A dog’s back legs are used for propulsion which means they are used more for traction and therefore the nails are ground much more than in the dog’s front legs which are mostly used for stability. So no, unless the nails in your dog’s back claws are long, as in the picture on the right, or your dog is quite inactive, you likely won’t have to clip your dog’s back claws too. If you are unsure, ask your vet or groomer for advice.

5) Dog Nails May Loop

When a dog’s nails are allowed to grow very long, they can start curving and even form a 360-degree loop that may embed into the dog’s paw pad, explains veterinary behaviorist Dr. Nicholas Dodman in the book “Puppy’s First Steps.” Dealing with an ingrown toenail will require veterinary attention, especially when the tip of the nail is not visible because it’s embedded into the dog’s paw, which can be very painful. Even if the dog’s toenail is not embedded, it’s critical to be very careful in trimming the dog’s nail a little bit at a time considering the fact that, as nails grow, their quick will grow along them, sometimes even close to the tip. In the picture above, a curled nail forming a loop can be seen in the outlined square section.

6) Dog Nails Get Infections Too

Bacterial and fungal toenail infections can affect man’s best friend nails too. With bacterial infections, the most common cause is trauma, so it’s important to keep those nails clean and dry after sustaining an injury. Other causes of nail infections in dogs can be triggered by systemic conditions such as immune-mediated diseases, diabetes and hypothyroidism.

When a dog’s nail is chronically infected, it could lead to permanent defective nail growth, explains veterinary dermatologist Dr. Patrick Hensel. Fortunately, unlike humans though, fungal infections of a dog’s nails are less common. When fungal infections of the nail are caused by malassezia, affected dogs will show a brown-red discoloration of the nail with a waxy brown-red seepage. This nail fungal infection is seen more in dogs suffering from allergies.

7) Dog Nails Can Be Affected by Cancer

Nails are a place that one really wouldn’t suspect cancer to take place, but they can actually be affected by different types of cancers. Squamous cell carcinoma and mast cell tumors can affect a dog’s nails. Also, nail changes in dogs can be observed when dogs develop melanoma of the toe. According to the Veterinary Cancer Place, when this cancer takes place, one of the first signs owners may notice is swelling of the toe, and in some cases, the nail may fall off. While malignant melanoma is more likely to affect a dog’s mouth, its second preferred site are the dog’s toes which can lead to fragile, easily damaged nails.

8) Dog Nails May Need a Grip

Dog nails weren’t meant for our modern settings; those nails were purposely designed by Mother Nature so to allow dogs to walk on natural terrains. If we take a closer look at our dog’s nails we will notice how they’re shaped like cleats purposely crafted to dig into earthen terrains, explains Dr. Julie Buzby. When we welcomed our dogs into our modern homes, we therefore introduced them to a totally unnatural environment where they may have a bit of a hard time getting a grip on, such as when walking on tiles, linoleum and hardwood floors.

Things may be particularly problematic for dogs with long nails which have a tough time gaining traction on hard, slippery floors. Because long nails cause dogs to rock their foot back, their toe pads fail to make normal contact with the floor, explains veterinarian Dr. MelJ. Additionally, senior dogs, rehabilitating dogs, and special needs dogs may be less capable to compensate on hard-surface flooring, which is why Dr. Buzby created special toe grips with these dogs in mind.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog’s nails appear abnormal or are bleeding, seeping pus or showing other worrisome signs, please see your vet.

References:

DVM360, Nail Diseases, by Patrick Hensel, retrieved from the web on July 8th, 2016
Puppy’s First Steps: The Whole-dog Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy …By Nicholas H. Dodman, Lawrence Lindner, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (April 18, 2007)
Saint Bernard’s Animal Medical Center, The Quick and the Dead: Nail Trims, retrieved from the web on July 8th, 2016
Toe Grips, Frequently asked questions about Dr. Buzby’s ToeGrips: the traction aid to help stop dog slipping, retrieved from the web on July 8th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Flickr, Creative Commons, Wendy Berry, 029/366: My Dog’s Pretty Nails, (CC BY 2.0)
Wikipedia, Damian Galan Kaiser, GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2
Flickr, Creative Commons, PRO Tony Alter Oops, Jimmy Dean pulled the blanket over his head but exposed his backside. CC BY 2.0
Flickr, Creative Commons, Brenda Kirk, Booties are Funny, CC BY 2.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Dog Won’t Potty on the Grass? It Could be a Substrate Preference

July 18, 2016July 7, 2016 by Admin

For us humans, using the restroom is just that, a way to eliminate earlier meals and make room for more, but from a dog’s perspective, going potty entails much more, so much more that some dogs are “picky poopers” and some others won’t potty on the grass or other surfaces. Why is that? We might assume that our dogs are being particularly stubborn or fastidious about their potty areas, but sometimes it’s just a matter of substrate preference. Yes, dogs can indeed have preferences when it comes to potty areas, and it sometimes all boils down to how they were potty trained and introduced to potty areas when the dogs were pups.

Just Like Kids

Many parents out there may remember how tough it was for their children to transition from the potty to the toilet. Indeed, some moms may recall the transition being almost as difficult as getting their child potty trained in the first place! To help their children out, these moms may have had to resort to some astute strategies such placing the potty next to the toilet or using a child-size toilet seat for the toilet. Puppies aren’t much different. Just like kids, they may have problems transitioning from going potty on one surface and then going potty on a totally different one. This is because puppies develop what’s called “substrate preference” which means they develop a preference for going potty on certain surfaces. This becomes a problem with puppies trained to go potty indoors on paper and then required to go potty in the yard on grass, dirt or gravel.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

“Humans experience substrate preference too. Our preferences just tend to be for porcelain. Do you remember the last time you had to go to the bathroom in the woods or in a foreign country where the amenities weren’t quite what you expected?”~ Lisa Rayburn, Mid-Atlantic Border Collie Rescue

A Matter of Preference

According to Karen Overall, puppies tend to develop a substrate preference at around 8 and a half weeks of age. By this time frame, most puppies will have fully developed senses and good physical coordination, which puts them into the position of learning to use a preferred substrate. At this stage, it’s important for the puppy owner to provide guidance on which substrate to use, otherwise the puppy will develop a preference on his own and this may often not coincide with owner’s wishes.

“If the puppy is not supervised and not encouraged to eliminate in a specific spot, that dog will learn to eliminate in the area that is used most frequently as a youngster.”~Karen Overall

What You See is What You Get

When a puppy is adopted from a pet store and the puppy is over 8 weeks, it’s important to pay attention to what substrate was being used while there. Many pet store puppies are kept on shredded newspaper so these puppies are forced to develop a preference for this substrate. Dogs in shelters instead may develop a preference for concrete floors. It’s important to keep these preference in mind when adopting these dogs and transitioning them to another substrate.

On the other hand, adult free ranging dogs may be used to using any substrate. When it comes to their elimination habits, these dogs tend to have a lack of inhibition as they are used to eliminate any place they are. When brought into a home, these formally free-ranging dogs may not show a preference towards a particular substrate such as grass, so they’ll need guidance in developing a preferred substrate, explains Karen Overall in the book “Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals.”

“House soiling quickly becomes a bad habit because dogs develop strong location, substrate, and olfactory preferences for their improvised indoor toilet areas.”~Ian Dunbar Dog Star Daily

Some Helpful Tips

So what should you do if you have a dog who needs some guidance on using a particular substrate? Fortunately, there are ways to help these dogs out. As always, patience and consistency goes a long way in helping these dogs out. Scolding the puppy, pushing his nose in his mess,or smacking his bottom with a newspaper will do no good other than confusing the puppy and making him fearful of going potty in front of you. This means, next time he may pick a place to potty that is out of your sight. Instead, focus on lavishly praising and rewarding when your puppy or dog potties in the correct area. Here are some helpful tips:

Avoid punishing your puppy when he eliminates on the wrong substrate. Verbal and physical corrections can lead to confusion, anxiety and fear. Not to mention, it can result in a puppy or dog who will potty behind their owner’s back because they have associated the presence of the owner with punishment.
Make going potty on desired substrate areas easy, fun and rewarding while making going potty in other substrate areas, difficult, boring and close to impossible (courtesy of management and supervision).
Leave feces in the substrate area you wish your dog to use. This can help reinforce in your dog’s mind that this is an appropriate area for going potty.
Make sure that when your puppy or dog has an accident on the wrong surface you clean up those soiled areas with an enzyme-based cleaner that dissolves any traces of residual odors. To a dog, residual odors of previous accidents act as reminders of the past which may trigger them to urinate on them once again. While we use our eyes to locate a restroom, dogs use their noses.
Don’t leave your puppy or dog unsupervised to potty in desired areas otherwise you’ll miss an important opportunity to reward him.
What if you want your small puppy to potty on grass, but its cold, there is snow on the ground or your puppy is sick and you have no other choice that making him potty indoors? A good choice is investing in a grass box or grass potty patch, basically a grass litter box or grass pad just made for dogs. This should help your puppy when it’s time to transition to real outdoor grass.
If your dog was used to potty on newspaper and now you want him to go outside on grass, try placing the newspaper gradually closer and closer to the door that leads outside. Then, help your dog generalize by moving it outside near the door and then finally closer and closer to the grassy area you wish to use. After a while, make the newspaper smaller and smaller by cutting it or folding it until you can remove it completely. Remember to always praise and reward for going potty on the newspaper despite these changes.
If you are planning to potty train your puppy on newspaper, but later plan on having your dog potty in the yard on grass, consider that the process can be time consuming and labor-intensive, warns veterinary behaviorist Valerie V. Tynes. If your schedule permits, it’s best to teach your dog to go outside from the get-go.
Remember that the goal for potty training a puppy or dog is to guide him on choosing the right substrate. By making going on potty on the right substrate fun and rewarding, your puppy or dog will eventually willingly choose to eliminate on that desired substrate rather than on your carpet or kitchen floor.
If your dog won’t potty on wet grass, see this guide on how to train your dog to go potty in the rain.

” A reward may help encourage the association between squatting on that substrate and good experiences. Urinating or defecating is physiologically self-rewarding; you’re rewarding the behavior exhibited in the location chosen. ” ~Karen Overall

References:

Where it the Bathroom Anyway? Courtesy of Mid-Atlantic Border Collie Rescue, retrieved from the web on July 7th, 2016.
DVM360, Canine Housetraining Challenges, retrieved from the web on July 7th, 2016.
DVM360, Canine housetraining, Part 3: Elimination training tips, retrieved from the web on July 7th, 2016.
Dog Star Daily, Housetraining, retrieved from the web on July 7th, 2016.
Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats, 1e 1 Pap/DVD Edition, by Karen Overall MA VMD PhD DACVB CAAB, Mosby; 1 Pap/DVD edition (July 9, 2013)

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Dog Word of the Day: Velcro Dog

July 10, 2016July 6, 2016 by Admin

In the world of dogs, there are often many colorful terms used to depict certain traits and behaviors, and one of them is “Velcro dog.” What exactly is a Velcro dog? For those who are not familiar with Velcro, it’s simply a hook and loop fastener that’s often used to attach two different parts. It’s basically, a lineal fabric strip with tiny hooks that attaches to another fabric strip with smaller loops. Interestingly, the inventor of Velcro, Swiss electrical engineer George de Mestral, developed Velcro in 1941 inspired by several burrs that attached to his trousers and the fur of this dog after a walk in the woods. So what exactly are Velcro dogs? As the name implies, it has something to do with “attachment.”

Velcro Dogs Defined

So what exactly is a Velcro dog? A Velcro dog is simply a dog who has developed a strong attachment to his owner, sometimes even to the point of being dysfunctional. Some people like to call these dogs “Velcro dogs” while some others prefer to refer to them as “shadow dogs” because they follow like a shadow. What most Velcro dogs have in common is that they are constantly “underfoot” and will follow their owners or caregivers room-to-room. The typical Velcro dog will often also be hyper vigilant, paying close attention to any cues (like putting down the remote or placing an arm on the arm rest) suggesting that their owners are about to get up and move. Dog owners may sometimes find such behaviors unnerving, especially when their Velcro dogs are small and they constantly risk tripping over them.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Let’s face it though: dogs are social animals, and as such, they seek companionship. It’s therefore normal for most dogs (except those few independent breeds) to strongly crave being with their owners and missing them, even when they step away for a brief periods of time. Problems start though when following the owner becomes an obsession and affected dogs are unable to cope with their owner’s absence. Ideally, dogs should be somewhere in between: somewhat interested in their owner’s whereabouts, but capable of relaxing and self-soothing when the owner must step away.

“The greatest fear dogs know is the fear that you will not come back when you go out the door without them.”~Stanley Coren

Types of Velcro Dogs

Some types of dogs are more likely to become “Velcro dogs” than others, but as with other things “dog,” you can really never make a black and white statement as there are often exceptions to the rules. Generally speaking though there are some dogs more prone to this problem than others. Following are some examples:

Dogs of Certain Breeds

Some working dog breeds such as collies and shepherd-like dogs that were selectively bred to work alongside their handlers and that relied heavily on their body language and guidance, may have a hard time dealing with separation. Other dogs with a reputation of being Velcro dogs are breeds bred to hunt with other dogs all day such as hounds and dogs bred to be lap dogs, basically adorable pooches who once spent most of their time as feet and and lap warmers for aristocratic ladies.

Dogs Fearful of Being Alone

Some extra- clingy dogs may be suffering from separation anxiety or they may be manifesting signs of its pre-development stage. Dogs prone to clingy behaviors often include recently rescued dogs who were surrendered from the shelter. It may remain unknown whether these dogs were surrendered in the first place because of a history of suffering from separation anxiety or whether they developed clingy behaviors as a result of going through many changes and disruptions in their routines. Or perhaps it may be both. According to Nicholas Dodman, most dogs affected by separation anxiety seem to be mixed breeds with a history of having been re-homed several times and “a less-than-ideal upbringing.”

Thumb Twiddling Dogs

Then, you have dogs who act clingy because they simply have nothing better to do. These dogs therefore patiently await their owners while they’re at work. Then, when their owners come home, they greet them enthusiastically and morph into the
“Velcro dog status” in hopes of getting their daily dose of exercise and mental activity. These dogs have basically turned following their owners a part-time job and who can’t blame them? The following behavior is often rewarded too when dog owners do interesting activities such as opening the fridge, eating something and leaving several tasty crumbs behind.

A Medical Problem

Sometimes clingy behaviors especially those that start suddenly in dogs who didn’t have this problem, should raise a red flag. In some dogs, this can sometimes be a sign of medical problem. For instance, older dogs may start acting clingy because of deteriorating senses such as loss of hearing or vision loss. These dogs become insecure and by sitting next to their owners they learn to rely on their owner’s reactions to become more aware of happenings around them. Sometimes clingy behaviors may also be an early sign of the onset of canine cognitive dysfunction (doggy Alzheimer’s). It’s not a bad idea to mention behavior changes to the vet, especially if dogs become suddenly clingy and their Velcro dogs behaviors are accompanied by other symptoms.

10 Tips on Helping Dogs That are Too Clingy

For those folks who own Velcro dogs, there is good news: Velcro dogs can be helped to reduce their “over-attachment.” However, severe cases or dogs suffering from separation anxiety may require professional help and sometimes, medications from a vet or veterinary behaviorist. Following are some tips for dealing with a Velcro dog that may help in some mild cases.

Train your dog a sit stay and down stay and lavishly praise and reward. These obedience exercises aren’t just for training, but can also help for behavior modification as they’re teaching the dog that it can be rewarding to stay at a distance from the owner. It’s important to make the game extra rewarding and fun. Start training your dog with you close-by and then gradually build on distance up until the point your are able to have your dog hold the stay when you are briefly out of sight. Go very gradually though to help your dog succeed as going too fast in the process can be too overwhelming. Also make sure you add closer distances every now and then in the midst of the farther ones so your dog doesn’t come to expect that the exercise will become harder and harder.
Train a “go to your mat” cue through a training method known as shaping. Place a mat at a distance from you and click and reward each time your dog walks towards it, then when your dog sniffs it and then when he walks on it. Finally, wait for your dog to lie down on it. When he does, give a jackpot of treats, or even better a stuffed Kong! After your dog visits the mat and lies down on it more and more, put it on cue, by saying “go to your mat” right when your dog gets on it to lie down. Then reward him with a long-lasting Kong to keep busy while you briefly step away.
Install a baby gate. This makes for a good temporary measure, but it does not address the underlying emotions nor does it help to boost the dog’s confidence. To help your dog cope better as you go about running errands around the house, toss him a stuffed Kong whilst behind a baby gate to keep him occupied.
Prepare your dog’s meal and then place the food bowl on top of the counter so that it builds a bit of anticipation. When your dog appears eager to eat, lower the food bowl and let him eat it while you are a short distance away. If your dog loves toys, place a new toy on the counter and let him have it when you must leave the room. Good things happen only when you are briefly away. Remember to go very gradually. If your dog gives signs of stress and being overwhelmed, you are going too fast in building distance.
Desensitize your dog to cues that suggests that you are about to get up. If your dog is the type who gets up to follow you upon seeing you put your arm on the arm rest or your chair makes a noise, you might want to to try to desensitize him to these cues. If for example, your dog gets ready to get up the moment you put the remote down, put the remote down over and over without getting up. Eventually at some point, your dog’s senses will tire and he’ll give up responding to this meaningless activity. Reward him by tossing a treat when he settles down (hopefully on his mat) and stops responding to the action. Then, progress and get up repeatedly from the couch. Up and sit, up and sit, up and sit. Again, reward when he stops responding. Progress to getting up, taking a few steps and then sitting down again, do this several times. If your dog follows you, just walk in circles, destination no where and then sit on the couch. Again, reward your dog until he settles and stops responding. Do this until you can get up and go into another room and your dog stay put on his mat.
Teach your dog to sleep at a distance from you. Provide him with a mat that you keep initially at a small distance from you. Many clingy dogs like to sleep by our feet or right next to us on the couch or bed so we awaken them when we are about to get up. These dogs are afraid to fall asleep as they cannot keep track on where we are, so teaching them to sleep on a mat with a chew toy can help instill some independence.
Clingy dogs need a confidence boost. Always use positive training methods and make it fun and rewarding. Train them confidence boosting exercises such as agility, free-shaping, basic obedience and clicker training.
Train tricks and games that use distance. Fetch, hide-n-seek, “go get the beer from the fridge” or “go go get the mail” can be fun and rewarding activities for a Velcro dog.
Make sure your dog gets his daily dose of exercise and mental stimulation. A tired dog is less likely to want to follow you around the house all day.
Keep tabs on your progress. You know you did a good job that day your dog sees you get up and he barely lifts his head and then goes back to snoozing in no time! “My Owner is getting up? Whatever, back to snooze land!”

References:

Veterinary Practice News: Separation Anxiety, Try 4-step Program, retrieved from the web on July 6th, 2016.
Wikipedia, Velcro, retrieved from the web on July 6th, 2016.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

What’s the Strongest Bone in a Dog’s Body?

July 5, 2016July 5, 2016 by Admin

When we’re looking at a dog, we are admiring the complex sum of bones, muscles, joints, ligaments, tendons and skin. The dog’s bones and muscles are what give the dog’s body support and its distinctive framework. Just like us, a dog’s bones are made of calcium and minerals so to make them strong, allow locomotion and protect the otherwise vulnerable vital organs they enclose. Among the several bones that dogs have, there is one bone is particular that is considered to be the strongest of all. Today’s trivia question is therefore:

Which bone of the dog’s body is the strongest of all?

A Jaw bone

B Femur bone

C Temporal bone

D Pelvic bone

The correct answer is: drum roll please:

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

The correct answer is: C, the temporal bone

For those who answered that a dog’s strongest bone is the femur, they were very close. The femur is often considered the longest bone of the body and the one that is very strong as it plays a big role in locomotion; however, if there ever was a contest for the strongest bone in dogs (and people too!), the temporal bone would win first prize.

According to expert researchers James F. Zachary and M. Donald McGavin, authors of the book “Pathologic Basis of Veterinary Disease” the petrous portion of the temporal bone is referred to as “the strongest bone of the body.”

Hard as Rock

The temporal bone in dogs is a flat piece of bone situated on the sides of the dog’s skull. It encloses the dog’s inner ear and its associated little ossicles. Its petrous portion is known to be one of the densest bones of the body. Just think that the term “petrous” comes from the Latin word petrosus, which means “stone-like, hard.” This piece of bone is one that is easily retrieved in archaeological findings due to its high density. This bone’s strategic position therefore protects the dog’s hearing and balance systems.

Did you know? From an archaeological perspective, the petrous bone is quite valuable. Not only it is dense, and as such, long lasting, but it’s also good in carrying DNA. Consider that when you try to get DNA from a fossil, most will come from microbes rather than the animal, but, according to an article on The Atlantic, when you are dealing with a sample of petrous bone, you have a chance as high as 80 percent that the DNA will be from the actual animal.

References:

14 Fun Facts About Ears: A 15-Minute Book: Educational Version, By Jeannie Meekins, LearningIsland.com (October 2, 2011)
Science Kids, Fun Ear Facts for Kids, retrieved from the web on July 5th, 2016
The Atlantic, A New Origin Story for Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 5th, 2016

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

I am Your Dog’s Eardrum

July 5, 2016July 4, 2016 by Admin

Just like us, dogs have an eardrum that plays a big role in a dog’s sense of hearing. A dog’s eardrum is not readily visible since it’s set deep into the dog’s ear canal, but when this structure incurs into problems, we can sometimes recognize that something is amiss. Sometimes, the things we do with our dogs may play a role in problems with a dog’s eardrum, so it’s very important to keep this structure in mind. So today, let’s discover more about a dog’s ear drum and let’s listen to this important membrane’s story.

ear drum non perforated — Intact eardrum

Introducing Your Dog’s Eardrum

Hello, it’s your dog’s eardrum talking! If you prefer, you can call me “tympanic membrane.” This makes me sound more important, no?

As mentioned, you might not be very familiar with me as I live in the shadow, tucked deeply within your dog’s ear canal. I am simply a thin membrane that’s stretched tight, just like a drum.

I basically separate your dogs’s external ear canal from his middle and inner ear. I play some important functions, and yes, sometimes I even get damaged, which is why you may sometimes see your veterinarian checking on me with his otoscope.

I am Protective

Since I am placed in a strategic spot between the external ear canal and the middle and inner ear, I play a protective role, keeping bacteria and fungi from entering the middle ear and potentially causing a middle ear infection. Middle ear infections (otitis media) are a far cry from the average outer ear infections (otitis externa.) According to veterinarian Ernest Ward, a middle ear infection is a serious condition that requires aggressive treatment. Sometimes middle ear infections may even progress into inner ear infections (otitis interna) which may cause deafness and loss of balance. So, yes, you must thank me if your dog is often spared from these maladies–when all goes well.

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

I Detect Sounds

I play a big role in your dog’s sense of hearing. When puppies are born, I am actually sealed closed so I am unable to carry sound as of yet. The ability to detect sounds starts when the puppy is about three weeks old, so from that day on I am on my way to my auditory mission. You see, I tend to vibrate when sound waves hit me. My vibrations move the small bones, known as the malleus, incus, and stapes, found in your dog’s middle ear, which then send the vibrations to your dog’s inner ear. From here, the auditory message finally reaches the dog’s brain. The reactions to these auditory messages may range from “Woohooo, my owner is grabbing my leash! to “Eeeek, fireworks! I am so scared, I better seek shelter under the bed and stay safe!”

When Things Go Wrong

Remember how I said that I was a thin membrane? Well, this is my weak point. Even though I am tucked deep inside your dog’s ear canal, I am vulnerable and prone to rupturing. How can this happen? Well in several ways. Very loud noises can sometimes cause me to rupture if close enough, so this is another good reason to keep your dog away from fireworks, gun shots or air horns. I can also rupture when there are severe changes in atmospheric pressure, or more commonly, when your dog has a middle ear infection. Sometimes toxins and ear infection may be culprits. I can also perforate when instruments are inserted in the dog’s ear too deeply or if a foxtail manages to work itself through me. Fortunately, your dog will likely let you know if I am ruptured. Here are a few symptoms of a ruptured eardrum in dogs:

Pain. Your dog may whimper or yelp when his ear is touched or he may shake his head or paw or scratch at it. He may tilt his head or rub his ear. When the pain is intense, some dogs may become reluctant to open their jaws and this may mean that they may become reluctant to eat, especially crunchy foods like kibble.
Ear Discharge. If your dog develops an middle ear infection, fluid may accumulate and since it has no where to escape, it can put pressure on me causing me to rupture or tear. When this happens, a pus-like discharge, sometimes tinged with blood, may seep out into the dog’s external canal, becoming visible. Usually, when I burst, the dogs feels a bit relief from the pain as there’s no more pressure.
Loss of Hearing. Since I transmit sounds to the dog’s inner ear, when I rupture I can affect your dog’s ability to hear. However, you might hardly notice this, because dogs are good in compensating hearing loss by using their other ear.
Neurological Problems. When I rupture because of a middle ear infection, affected dogs may develop neurological symptoms. You see, the middle ear hosts several facial and sympathetic nerves, so when bad things happen there, paralysis of the facial nerves may occur causing the dog’s face and mouth on the same side to appear droopy, the appearance of the dog’s third eyelid and the inability to blink. When the inner ear is affected too, affected dogs may start showing balance-related symptoms such as staggering, walking in circles, nystagmus, involuntary eye movements, and lack of coordination.

When I am ruptured, it’s very important that dog owners do not try to self-treat at home as using ear medications can cause future damage to me. There are very few products that are safe (and not ototoxic) to use in a ruptured eardrum. This is why, vets thoroughly check me out before prescribing ear drops. If you suspect I have ruptured, see your vet as he can only assess whether I am still intact or not, courtesy of the handy otoscope and other helpful tests. The good news is that, if I am truly ruptured, I have the ability to repair myself. Indeed, according to veterinarian Ernest Ward, I may heal within 3 to 5 weeks and if there is a middle ear infection, medications may be needed for 4 to 6 weeks.

As seen, I am quite an important membrane that plays a big role in keeping your dog’s ears healthy and your dog responsive to surrounding sounds. So make sure to keep me in good shape. Don’t expose your dog to loud noises, don’t stick things in your dog’s ears and avoid using ear drops without seeing your vet first. Your dog and me will thank you!

Yours truly,

Your Dog’s Eardrum.

References:

VCA Animal Hospitals, Tympanic Membrane Rupture and Middle Ear Infection in Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 4th, 2016
Merck Veterinary Manual, Otitis median and interna, retrieved from the web on July 4th, 2016
Pet Education, Ear Anatomy and Hearing, retrieved from the web on July 4th, 2016

Photo Credits:

An example of a perforated human eardrum., Source: By Didier Descouens, CC, via Wikipedia
An example of an intact ear drum. Source: Didier Descouens – Wikimedia Commons
Anatomy of the ear. Original uploader was Sunshineconnelly at en.wikibooks – transferred to Commons by User:Adrignola using CommonsHelper. By Ruth Lawson. Otago Polytechnic CC BY 3.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Do You Always Have to Use a Clicker in Dog Training?

July 3, 2016July 3, 2016 by Admin

Many people are hesitant to try clicker training for the simple fact that they don’t feel like bringing a clicker along with them when they’re out and about with their dogs. Yet, many people are not aware of the fact that there is no need to always have to use the clicker for the simple fact that the use of the clicker can actually be discontinued at some point! Actually, the correct wording would be “the clicker “must be discontinued at some point” if we want to adhere to good training practices. So for those folks addicted to using a clicker who are using it all the time for the same exact exercises over and over, that clicker must go “bye-bye” at some point. To discontinue the use of the clicker, there’s an exact procedure to follow to so to successfully discontinue its use, but the good news is that the process is fairly easy.

What Clickers Do

Clickers are noise-making tools that produce a distinctive clicking noise when the trainer presses on it. Nowadays, there are several makes and models of clickers on the market, but they all share the fact that they produce a distinct clicking sound. This clicking sound tells the dog something along the lines of “Bingo! You got it right, here comes a treat.” The clicking noise therefore happens right the moment the dog performs the desired behavior. Because the clicker bridges the gap between the behavior and the reward, all clicks must always be immediately followed by a treat. For sake of comparison, the effect of the clicking noise might feel to a dog similar to the “ding, ding, ding” noise people hear in game shows when they give the correct answer and win a prize.

While the clicker works very well when we are training a new behavior as it pinpoints that exact moment in time when the behavior occurs, if we keep using the clicker once a dog is fluent in performing a behavior, its use is pretty much redundant as there’s nothing really new happening and this may turn a training session dull. The exception to the rule is when we’re adding a new challenge to a behavior our dog knows well. In this case, we can re-introduce the clicker. For example, if we’ve trained our dog to reliably sit, and therefore, stopped using the clicker, one day we may want to raise criteria and pinpoint faster sits versus the slower ones. In this case, we would go back to using the clicker to mark/reward only the fast sits.

“At ClickerExpo, during lecture sessions, I sometimes see attendees repeatedly clicking and treating dogs just for lying down and being quiet, when the dog is already lying down and being quiet anyway. Using the click in this way, just to maintain behavior that’s already been learned, may actually devalue the click.” Karen Pryor

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

A Matter of Fluency

After a behavior is learned and becomes reliable, the use of the clicker should be discontinued. When is a dog’s behavior considered reliable? According to Paul Owens author of the book “The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training.”If your dog responds 80 percent of the time on any one behavior, you should consider it reliable behavior. If your dog gives you the behavior you are asking 90 percent of the time in different environments, that is considered very reliable”

This means we can still use the clicker when we morph our hand signal into the final one or when we introduce the verbal cue “sit “and we can still use it when we’re introducing distractions (such as training in different places) just to confirm to the dog that he’s still doing great despite these new added challenges, but afterward, it should become our goal to get the clicker out of the picture.

“Once the behavior is on cue, and dog will offer it willingly, fade the clicker”~ Melissa Alexander

What Can I use to Replace the Click?

Various trainers use different methods and there doesn’t seem to be a standard operating procedure. Melissa Alexander suggests replacing the click with a verbal marker. She claims “A verbal marker isn’t as precise as a clicker, but at this stage, the dog knows what’s being reinforced. Consider the verbal marker a praise marker, letting the dog know that he did something reinforceable”

It’s not a bad idea therefore to train a dog using a clicker for cutting-edge precision and using a marker such as ‘yes” for those times you don’t have access to the clicker or simply don’t need that precision the clicker can only give. This way, when that time comes and you need to discontinue the clicker, you can easily replace it with the already familiar verbal marker. Now that you have a verbal marker and no longer a clicker, you are also free to move on to a variable schedule where you give treats randomly instead of every single time.

James O’ Heare instead in the book “The Science and Technology of Dog Training p. 149” suggests to use a release cue to replace the clicker. For example, in an exercise that uses duration such as a sit, we would replace the click with a release word such as “Okay.” If the dog breaks the sit, then the owners should promptly reinforce it. However if the dog is hesitant to break the sit upon hearing the release cue “okay,” owners can immediately (after saying “okay”) prompt the dog to be released from the sitting position by perhaps waving their arms or enticing the dog to follow them. When the dog breaks the sitting position, he can then be rewarded.

” Once the learner knows what to do and when to do it, for many behaviors you don’t need to click any more; a nod or a smile or a word can tell a dog he’s doing fine.” Karen Pryor

The Bottom Line

As seen, the clicker is a temporary tool used for pinpointing desired behaviors. Once the dog knows what’s being asked to and performs the behavior reliably, the clicker should be discontinued. Different trainers may use different methods as to when and how to start discontinuing its use. During the process, the dog should be introduced to a permanent word or perhaps a nod or a smile, that can used to replace the clicking sound. This is also a good time to move from a continuous reinforcement schedule to a variable one. Oh, and by the way, for those who call the process of discontinuing the clicker “fading the click” this term is technically incorrect. Fading means making something gradually smaller and smaller as we do when fading prompts. With the clicker, you either click or not, so it’s not a suitable term for a marker signal, explains Karen Pryor.

Did you know? According to a study, dogs who were trained using a clicker to perform a specific target behavior took an average time of 36 minutes to perform the task, whereas dogs who very verbally conditioned dogs took an average of 59 minutes.

References:

The Dog Whisperer: A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training, By Paul Owens, Norma Eckroate, Adams Media; 2 edition (February 12, 2007)
The Science and Technology of Dog Training, by James O’ Heare, Dogwise Publishing
Edition: 2014
Clicker Solutions by Melissa Alexander, Frequently Asked Questions, retrieved from the web on July 3rd, 2016
“Clicker Bridging Stimulus Efficacy.” Linday Wood. 2007. Master’s thesis, Hunter College, New York.
Karen Pryor Clicker Training, Fading the Click? retrieved from the web on July 3rd, 2016

Photo Credits:

Clicker-training clickers come in various shapes and forms.Taken by Elf | Talk Sept 17 ’04 – Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons. Transfer was stated to be made by User:Syp. CC BY-SA 3.0

[otw_is sidebar=otw-sidebar-1]

Be Careful, Fireworks Are Toxic to Dogs

March 15, 2022July 2, 2016 by Admin

By A. Farris

When we think about fireworks, we often think about how the booming noises they produce affect our dogs letting them startle or even develop sheer panic, however, not much thought is given when the festivity is over and things seem to get quieter. After a day of being kept safely in the home away from all the noises and commotion, many dogs are eager to go outside and return to their sniffing and urine marking routine. However, not all risks are over. Many dogs may find spent fireworks attractive and may decide to chew on them or even ingest them which can cause problems.

My Dog Ate Fireworks!

Many dog owners become concerned about their dogs eating fireworks, are they right to be concerned? The answer is yes. According to the Pet Poison Helpline, fireworks can be dangerous to our canine companions in many ways.

Other than the loud noises produced and risks of direct exposure to fireworks which can cause serious burns, unlit and spent fireworks contain harmful chemicals such as potassium nitrate, sulfur, carbon, cadmium, barium and coloring agents that may contain heavy metals such as mercury, antimony, copper strontium and phosphorus.

Worrisome Symptoms

When a dog ingests fireworks, their nitrate contents can cause blood changes and anemia when ingested in a reasonably high quantity, explains a veterinarian Dr. Jen. On top of that, gunpowder can irritate the stomach and intestinal tract, causing vomiting and diarrhea as a minimum.

Other symptoms according to the Pet Poison Helpline, may include weakness, tremors, seizures, trouble breathing, acute kidney failure, bone marrow changes and yellowing of the skin (jaundice).

What Should Dog Owners Do?

If you suspect your dog has ingested fireworks, call your vet immediately. If your dog ingested them within the last couple of hours, there are chances that, based on the type ingested, your vet or the pet poison helpline can provide over-the-phone instructions on how to induce vomiting using 3 percent hydrogen peroxide (all dog owners should keep this always handy for such instances). If more than a couple of hours have passed though, dogs may need to get supportive care, fluids and medications from the vet.

For very mild cases with minimal ingestion that are affecting only the digestive tract, there are chances your vet can suggest home treatment. The vet may recommend a bland diet consisting of a large meal of mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, or pumpkin, explains Dr. Pollen, a retired holistic veterinarian. These foods are easy to digest and help move the ingested toxin through the dog’s system. However, in significant cases, home treatment is inadequate and your dog may need to be hospitalized and treated with IV fluids and medications, further warns Dr. Pollen. Depending on the type of firework ingested, as in the case of those with heavy metals, dogs may require a specific antidote, warn Pet Place Veterinarians. While many dogs recover with supportive care, the prognosis can be critical for dogs that swallow a large amount or have delayed treatment.

“If your pet ate only the residue of firecrackers lying about after festivities, it is exposed to heavy metals that lace the packaging materials, wicks, and ash residue. This amount may be toxic but may not be fatal. If your pet ate enough fireworks to light up Disneyland, the picture, although bright, will not be pretty.” ~Dr. Pollen

As seen, fireworks can be a hazard whether before or after being lit up. For those lightening them up, it would be great if they would be considerate and dispose of their firework remnants with safety in mind. Since we don’t live in a perfect world though, dog owners must keep their dogs on leash and monitor their activities to keep their companions safe from exposure to any toxic residues.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If you suspect your dog ate fireworks, please see your vet for treatment or consult with the pet poison helpline at 855-764-7661 (a $49 charge per incident applies)

References:

Pet Poison Helpline: Fireworks, retrieved from the web on July 2, 2016
Dr. Pollen, Gun Powder and Dogs, Firecrackers and Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 2, 2016
Pet Place, Dangers of Fireworks to Dogs, retrieved from the web on July 2nd, 2016