Month: July 2016

What Your Panting Dog May Be Trying to Tell You

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We tend to associate dog panting with a way to cool down, but dogs may pant for several other reasons. To observant owners the way a dog pants can provide relevant information even about a dog’s emotional state. A good place to start is by looking at the dog’s commisures, which are the corners of the dog’s mouth. Are they tense? Relaxed? As with many things dog though, you can’t generate a sure conclusion by just focusing on a body part. By paying attention to the context in which panting occurs, the way the dog pants and the accompanying body language, we may be able to gain a better insight on what our dogs may be feeling. So let’s try listening to our panting dogs and see what they may be trying to say.

                                                                                  I am Hot!
dog hot

A dog’s body warms up in two ways; from external conditions and internal conditions. External is when the dog is exposed to a hot environment. Being covered with fur and with a body temperature higher than us, we must consider that dogs are more sensitive to heat than we are, especially when it comes to the Nordic breeds.

This type of panting therefore tends to occur in a warm context such as walking on a warm day or being in a room with not much ventilation. Dogs who are panting from heat will often be seeking other methods to cool down quickly such as seeking shade, laying down on a tiled floor or sticking their head out of a window.

In a dog panting from being warm, the panting happens at a very rapid rate. Generally, the ears and face are relaxed, the eyes are soft and the lips are sligthly retracted with a downward relaxed droop.  The nostrils may quiver a bit as the dog exhales. The tongue will often flop out loosely due to gravity and it may be kept sometimes to the side, out of the way.

Since the moisture on the dog’s tongue evaporates, it helps the dog cool down. For more on this cool stuff read: how do dogs cool down?

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“In a dog that is just hot and panting, the tongue will loll out of the mouth, sometimes off to the side, and will be shaped more by gravity than by muscular effort.” Brenda Aloff, Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide

panting

I Have Exercised!

As mentioned above, dogs may sometimes get warm internally like for example when they are exercised. Basically, what happens is that a dog’s muscles contract and they generate heat.

Like when it’s hot, dogs who are exercised will pant to cool their body down. This panting as the heat-related panting, will occur in specific contexts, such as during and/or after playing a game of fetch, playing with other dogs or going on brisk walk.

When dogs are tired and done exercising, they will pant and often look for a place to lie down and start cooling down. Often dogs panting from exercise have a happy look on their faces, perhaps due to the satisfaction derived from engaging in enjoyable activities such as play.

Like dogs panting from exposure to heat, dogs who are panting from exercise will also not appear tense. The tongue will be protruding out and can be carried to the side, out of the way.  The tongue lolls out loosely due to gravity. The lips will be retracted with a downward relaxed droop. The nostrils may quiver slightly as the dog exhales.

scared
A storm is rolling through, I am so scared!

I am Stressed/Scared/ Anxious

Stress, anxiety, fear may also cause a dog to pant as adrenaline speeds up a dog’s heart and respiratory rate, which results in panting. Dogs may therefore pant in contexts that generate fear, such as at the vet, when the owner is about to leave (in dogs suffering from separation anxiety) and when a storm rolls in (in dogs suffering from brontophobia).

The owners must therefore evaluate whether the dog is hot,  has exercised or if stress may play a role. This means if your dog is panting in the car, you might therefore want to evaluate if it’s because the car is hot, or if it’s a result of the stress from the experience of being on a car ride, suggest  Martina Scholz and Clarissa von Reinhardt in the book “Stress in dogs. Learn How Dogs Show Stress and What You Can Do to Help.” 

In the case of a dog who is panting from anxiety or fear, the lip retraction tends to be more marked. There may be little to no downward droop therefore almost all of the dog’s teeth become visible. The tongue generally doesn’t protrude out loosely due to gravity, instead it may show what Brenda Aloff refers to as “the spatulate tongue.”  

Let’s remember that a dog’s tongue is is a muscular organ and as such it can also become tense. So basically, when the dog is tense, the tongue no longer falls out loosely due to gravity, but instead is held up from muscular effort. It therefore takes a curved shape at the edges that resembles a spatula. However, don’t take a spatulate tongue as a sure sign of stress! It’s important to look at the dog as a whole, and once again, the context in which it happens. In a stressed dog you will also likely see facial tension, ears set back, dilated pupils and more. The dog on the left, is scared of thunder and was in a hiding spot. Notice the whale eye and  panting.

idea tipDid you know? The median sulcus is the groove that divides the dog’s upper surface of the tongue into two symmetrical halves.

 

I am Excited
dog excited

Some dogs get so worked-up when they engage in activities they look forward to, that this may lead to panting. Since dogs who are excited also move so much, the panting can also be attributed to the dog’s muscle actions and movements.

Dogs may get excited and pant when they hear the noise of the leash, when they hop into the car and can’t wait to go to park, when they know they are going hunting or when they start hearing the car denoting the owner is coming home during a dull, lonely day.

In this case, the panting is happening in context when there are exciting happenings going on. The dog’s body is quivering in anticipation, the dog is alert, and there may be excited vocalizations going on like high-pitched barks or whines.

The eyes are focused on what is triggering the excitement. The ears are up and alert ready to capture any noises. They may be pacing back and forth, jumping and of course, the panting from all the commotion.

sick dogI am Sick

Panting may be a sign that your dog is not feeling well and can be seen out of context, therefore, when one would not expect the dog to pant. A dog in pain may be sitting next the owner and panting as if asking for help. He or she may be pacing and have a hard time finding a comfortable position if there’s an orthopedic, abdominal or spinal problem.

In a dog with trouble breathing, the dog breaths with an open mouth and the neck may be extended. A dog in respiratory distress may prefer to stand or sit rather than lie down and may keep the legs in a wide stance. Difficulty breathing may stem from a heart or lung problem and requires immediate veterinary attention.

Other conditions that may cause panting are a fever, abdominal pain, anemia, endocrine and several neurological conditions.

Senior dogs may start panting at night and it can be a sign of Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome. Also, some medications may cause episodes of panting. If your dog is panting and looks sick, please consult with your veterinarian at once.

“Most dogs and cats with difficulty breathing will show the most effort when they are breathing air in, while others may also have difficulty breathing out. Some animals will take rapid, deep breaths, and in dogs this must be differentiated from normal panting—which is rapid, shallow breaths.”Cummings Veterinary Medical Center

idea tipDid you know? Even when your dog stops panting, you may learn something about him. For instance, if your dog is panting and then suddenly stops, this may indicate that he has seen something that grabbed his interest or he heard a particular sound. Other than increased concentration, it can also signal growing concern. The mouth closing may be followed by a snarl or growl if the undesired interaction is allowed to continue.

 

References:

  • The Dog Behavior Problem Solver: Step-by-Step Positive Training Techniques to Correct More than 20 Problem Behaviors by Teoti Anderson, Lumina Media (December 8, 2015)
  • Stress in Dogs Perfect by Martina Scholz, Clarissa von Reinhardt, Dogwise Publishing; 1st edition (December 1, 2006)
  • Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide Interpreting the Native Language of the Domestic Dog by Brenda Aloff, Dogwise Publishing; 1St Edition edition (November 1, 2005)
  • Cummings Veterinary Medical Center, Tufts University, Difficulty Breathing – Symptoms of Pets with Heart Disease, retrieved from the web on July 21st, 2016
  • Clinician’s Brief, What’s in a Pant, retrieved from the web on July 21st, 2016

 

  • Photo Credits:
  • Flickr Creative Commns, Micolo J, Enjoying the Sun Banjo, My rescue dog and best friend having a breather in the hot weather, CCBY2.0
  • Flickr Creative Commons, Steven Saus, Scared by overnight storms, she got stuck in the railing. CCBY2.0
  • Flickr Creative Commons, Dale, PJ’s a sick girl, She’s suffering from Irritable bowel syndrome. We have an appointment with a new vet, hoping he can do something to help her out. CCBY2.0
  • Flickr Creative Commons Bev SykesWow! Really?I don’t know what Sheila was so excited about, but I love the expression on her face–even if the photo is blurry!, CCBY2.0
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Dog Word of the Day: Wash-Out Period

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For several good reasons, veterinarians won’t recommend giving aspirin to dogs when dog owners call their clinics reporting their dogs are in pain. First of all, most vets aren’t comfortable recommending treatments without knowing exactly what it going on, and if the patient wasn’t seen for a while, it can be even illegal as there’s no longer a Veterinarian-Client-Patient Relationship. While dog owners may get irritated when their vets fail to recommend a home treatment such as aspirin, it’s in the dog’s best interest considering that should the aspirin fail to control the pain, the vet may not be able to give more potent anti-inflammatory drugs due to the need for “a wash-out” period.

vetPracticing Safe Medicine

What is a wash-out period? A wash-out period is a period of pause given when switching from one medication to another. It’s not necessary for all medications, but it’s common practice when switching from a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug to another or when switching between a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug and a steroid. What determines how long a wash-out period is?

A determining factor is the medication’s half life, which is the length of time it takes for the dog’s body to get rid of half of the dose. Generally, the longer the half life, the longer the wait between stopping a medication and starting another. However, vets must also consider the many dog-to-dog variations in the excretion rates of drugs and specific circumstances. The way a wash-out period is implemented therefore depends on various factors such as the type of medication involved, its half life, the length of time it’s given and other individual factors such as the dog’s age, health status and more.

” A wash-out period is a period of time recommended by the veterinarian during which the dog does not receive any NSAID. This allows one NSAID to be cleared from the body before starting another NSAID. Then the dog can be switched to another NSAID. NSAIDs should not be combined with the use of a corticosteroid, either.~Michele Sharkey et al.

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From NSAID to NSAID

Common non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs prescribed for dogs consist of Rimadyl, Metacam, Deramaxx and Previcox. Switching from a NSAID to another may be due to lack of efficacy, a need to change route of administration (eg. from injection to pill form) or adverse side effects. According to Phil Zeltzman, a board-certified veterinary surgeon, a wash-out period probably needs to be longer if the dog needs to be switched over due to side effects rather than lack of efficacy. While this practice may seem conservative, Dr. Zeltzman still recommends a wash-out period of seven days when switching from one NSAID to another one due to lack of efficacy, but exceptions may be made with consent from the owner should the dog be very uncomfortable. When there are slight overlaps, veterinarians may prescribe additional medications to reduce the chances for side effects (eg. stomach acid reducers)

“If I’m switching to a new NSAID because of a treatment failure, then I prefer to wait one week if the dog’s level of pain allows it. If the animal is in severe pain, I wait a minimum of three to four days… Other drugs such as tramadol, fentanyl (transdermal), hydrocodone, or codeine can be used if indicated to control the pain in the interim.”~Butch KuKanich.

aspirinFrom Aspirin to NSAID

Easily available over the counter, cheap and effective in killing pain,  aspirin is often given to dogs by well meaning dog owners without reporting to the vet. This practice though can lead to several problems. For instance, a dog may be on steroids for allergies and then the one day the dog is limping, so the dog owner decides to give aspirin for a day or two. Or in another instance, a dog has back pain and the dog owners gives aspirin, but since the pain is strong and doesn’t get better, he’s brought to the vet. Not knowing about the aspirin, the vet prescribes a NSAID. Both practices can cause significant problems that can even become deadly in some circumstances due to the overlap effect of the two medications.

Aspirin, just like Rimadyl or Previcox, is also a NSAID, so technically, there should be a washout period when switching from aspirin to another NSAID. Aspirin is more likely to cause negative effects on the dog’s gastro-intestinal tract compared to a NSAID obtained by veterinary prescription, explains Butch KuKanich, a diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology. He states; “If a client gave even one dose of aspirin, he or she should wait at least three days and, more conservatively, one week before starting a new NSAID. With long-term aspirin treatment, the client should wait at least one week before administering another NSAID. ” These are general guidelines obviously as each vet may decide a different approach. 

“Aspirin should not be administered because there are safer alternatives. If a course of treatment with aspirin has been started in a dog, the recommended washout period before starting an approved veterinary NSAID is up to 10 days.”~American Animal Hospital Association

From Steroid to NSAID

Common steroids prescribed in dogs include several medications that end with “one” such as prednisone, prednisolone, methylprednisolone, dexamethasone, cortisone, betamethasone, hydrocortisone and fluticasone. Steroids are also non-inflammatory drugs, but they belong to a different class and are considered more powerful compared to the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, but some consider them more likely to cause side effects. The guidelines for washout period from a steroid to a NSAID may be similar as switching from NSAID to NSAID, but  steroids may need longer wash-out times as some types may be long-acting. If a dog is being switched from a steroid to a NSAID due to side effects, the wash-out period may also be longer.

Measures to Avoid Problemstable

So why is a wash-out period needed? The problem is the effect that some drugs have when their effects overlap. NSAIDs such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, Metacam, Previcox and aspirin, work by blocking the production of prostglandins, special compounds known for causing inflammation. The enzymes that produce prostaglandins are known as cyclooxygenase (COX) and there are two types: COX-1 and COX-2.  For this reason, several NSAIDS are known as “COX inhibitors.” Steroids such as prednisone also block the production of prostglandins.

Giving two medications that block prostglandins together may sound may sound like a good thing, but it is not for the simple fact that prostglandins are also responsible for protecting the dog’s gastro-intestinal tract, his liver and his kidneys. When a NSAID is given with another NSAID (or with a steroid) or when a wash-out period is not implemented, blood supply to these vital organs is potentially affected and can lead to serious damage such as stomach ulcers, perforation and serious kidney and liver damage.

“When you combine any two NSAIDs – their negative effects on Cox-1 can be anywhere up to TEN TIMES worse than if you just doubled the dose of one of the drugs by itself. While each combination is different, the take home point is that there can be interaction which is worse when combined.” ~Christopher A. Lee DVM

 The Bottom Line

What does all of this mean to dog owners? It means that it’s very importance to practice caution and avoid giving  medications to dogs without a vet’s consent. Giving aspirin without a vet’s consent may mean delaying your dog’s treatment as you will have to wait before more effective drugs your veterinarian carries can be given. If aspirin is ever given without asking a vet first, it’s in the dog’s best interest letting the vet know so that appropriate steps can be taken should the dog need to be put on another NSAID or a steroid drug.

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary or pharmacological advice. If your vet is in pain, consult with your vet for proper diagnosis and treatment.

 

References:

  • Guidelines for safe and effective use of NSAIDs in dogs. Lascelles BD1, McFarland JM, Swann H.Vet Ther. 2005 Fall;6(3):237-51.
  • DVM360, My approach to an NSAID washout period in dogs, retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016
  • Critical Care Vet, Steroids & NSAIDS: A Potentially Lethal Combination, retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016
  •  U. S. Food and Drug Administration, What Veterinarians Should Tell Clients About Pain Control and Their Pets, Michele Sharkey, DVM, Margarita Brown, DVM , Linda Wilmot, DVM.
  • Veterinary Anesthesia and Analgesia, edited by Kurt A. Grimm, Leigh A. Lamont, William J. Tranquilli, Stephen A. Greene, Sheilah A. Robertson. Wiley-Blackwell; 5 edition (May 11, 2015)
  • Veterinary Information Network, Inc.Dog aspirin takes hits from critics, retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016
  • American Animal Hospital Association, Nine Ways to Minimize the Risks of Nonsteroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs) retrieved from the web on July 20th, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • A vet examines a dog in New York, Archivist1174 – Own work, Photo of New York State Assemblyman Dr. Stephen M. “Steve” Katz at the Bronx Veterinary Center.CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Wash-out Time Table by Caprofen,US Pharmaceutical Convention 2004

 

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What Were Borzoi Bred For?

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Just by looking at the borzoi dog breed, you can deduce that this dog must have been selectively bred for his speed. The borzoi’s aerodynamic looks give the impression of a dog blessed with ground-covering stride and effortless power. Even the name of this breed denotes briskness; “borzoi” is the Russian word for “swift.” Despite being built for speed, these dogs also posses an unmistakable elegance, which makes them stick out from the crowd in the show ring. But what were Borzoi originally bred for? Today’s trivia question will therefore focus on the original purpose of this breed.

What were borzoi originally bred for?

A:  For quickly retrieving shot waterfowl

B: For hunting wolves

C: For racing around a track

D: For chasing puffin birds

The correct answer is:

drum

 

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The correct answer is B, for hunting wolves.

borzoi
Efim A. Tikhmenev (1869-1934) Wolf hunt with borzois

Have A Wolf by the Ears

Despite this breed’s noble and sophisticated look, Borzoi are hunters at heart. Also known as the Russian wolfhound, the Borzoi was used by rich landowners, nobles and Cossacks for hunting down wolves in Soviet Russia starting from the 17th century. The wolf populations were high back then, and the wolves posed a threat to livestock and humans. The strategy for hunting wolves entailed trapping them between a group of men on horses surrounded by several dogs of different breeds and a man on foot holding up to six dogs on leash. Several scent hounds were sent to track scent and upon detecting a wolf, they would start baying loudly. Their loud baying and howls served to alert the hunter, signaling that it was time to send out the “catch dogs” often consisting of a team of 2 or more borzoi. Upon unleashing the borzoi, they would run at full speed and capture the wolf holding him down by the neck and ears until the hunters took over, delivering the “coup de grâce”. Other than hunting wolves, borzoi were also used for coursing hare and other game.

“The Borzoi were used in matched pairs or teams to run down the wolf which was always given a good head start by the sporting Russians. When alongside, the Borzoi took a grip behind the wolf’s ear and flipped it onto its back, keeping it pinned to the ground until the hunter arrived.”~The Borzoi Club of Queensland

borzoi dog
Julian Russell Story (1857-1919)

The Borzoi Today

Understanding what this breed was selectively bred for can help give an insight on what traits to expect in these dogs before welcoming them in our hearts and homes today. For instance, unlike the baying hounds, the borzoi was selectively bred to be a quiet hunter, sprinting after the wolves at full speed. This makes borzoi overall quiet pets, generally making poor watchdogs. Of course, borzoi are bred for speed, so with a history of slicing through the air with their slim bodies, they require opportunities to run loose. They don’t need to run for miles, but need an opportunity to burn up that pent-up energy. This must occur though in a safe and enclosed area, otherwise they’ll be gone within seconds, getting lost or worse, hit by a car.

People who claim this dog to be stubborn have missed the whole point of this breed’s original purpose. With a history of working at a distance from their handlers hunting independently without much guidance, borzoi are therefore (as expected) predisposed to being independent thinkers. If one must train one, instead of labeling them as stubborn, it’s far more productive getting creative and churning out ideas on how to create motivation. An opportunity to chase or access to a flirt pole may turn handy with these guys as a way to reward desired behaviors. And of course, they will have a tendency to chase anything that moves and that may include squirrels, the neighbor’s cat and even small dogs. Introduced early though, they may get along with the family cat, but keep in mind that their attitude may dramatically change upon seeing outdoors cats fleeing, warns the Borzoi Club of America.

References:

  • R.C. Sturgis, The Mammals That Moved Mankind: A History of Beasts of Burden, AuthorHouse, 2015
  • The Borzoi Club of Queensland, History of the Borzoi, retrieved from the web on July 19th, 2016
  • Borzoi Club of America, So You Want a Borzoi…retrieved from the web on July 19th, 2016

 

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I am Your Dog’s Neurons

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Many people are intimidated by neuroscience because they believe it is something really complicated, but it all sums up to making it easy to understand. Today, we will be taking a close look to a dog’s neurons, how they work and the many tasks they accomplish. Turns out dogs and people share similar nervous systems, so by learning more about neurons, we also learn a bit more about ourselves and how our nervous system functions. So let’s see what a dog’s neurons have to say, how they work and how they help us accomplish the many things we do in life.

Introducing Your Dog’s NeuronsNEuron dog

Hello, it’s your dogs’ neurons talking! While your dog’s body is made of many cells, cells that are part of the nervous system are known as “neurons” so to distinguish us from the average cells. We are the longest cells of the body, sometimes reaching great lengths (like when going from the spinal cord all the way to your dog’s skin or lower leg).

Like other cells, we are surrounded by a cell membrane, we have a nucleus, cytoplasm, mitochondria and other organelles. What mostly distinguishes us from other cells though is what we do. There are different types of us: Sensory neurons responsible for your dog’s senses such as touch, sound and scent, motor neurons specialized for muscle contractions and movement and interneurons specialize in connecting  neurons with other neurons sharing the same region of the brain or spinal cord.

synapsysWe Convey Messages

We are responsible for carrying messages. We are electrically excitable, and we use this electrical energy to receive and transmit information. We have dendrites and axons to help carry out the task. Imagine your dog’s brain as a telephone switch-board receiving and delivering messages. Our dendrites are on the receiving end and take incoming calls (mostly local calls), while our axons take care of the outgoing calls, including the long distance ones. Like telephone poles, electricity travels on wires from one pole to another until it reaches its destination. The gaps between one pole and another can be compared to the gaps known as a ‘synapses.’ In the same fashion a telephone switchboard allows a big number of callers to talk to one another simultaneously, a neuron is able to communicate with other neurons courtesy of these synapses. Instead of telephone numbers though, us neurons rely on chemicals known as neurotransmitters to ensure that all messages reach their destination.

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What messages do we relay? Well, just think that just now, as you are reading this sentence, your brain and nervous system is working. As you are reading, nerve cells in your eyes are relaying the information from your eyes to the brain. While dogs don’t read, they perform many other actions. Everything a dog sees, hears or touches, turns into electrical signals moving between the brain and body. For instance, when your dog is stepping on a thorn, a message is sent from his paw to his brain. Thanks to us neurons, your dog will sense pain and will lift his foot off the ground before he risks getting it injured any further. And we do work fast! Just think that the message reaches his brain within a few thousandths of a second! It is ultimately thanks to messages traveling from one neuron to the next that your dog can move his muscles, joints and other body parts.

idea tipDid you know? There are chances that dogs may be also gifted with “mirror neurons” special neurons capable of “firing in patterns that mimic others’ actions,” explains Adám Miklósi, a leading expert on canine behavior.

When Things go Wrong

While we are known for doing amazing work, sometimes if the incoming or outgoing calls are plugged wrongly or there are problems with the switchboard, there will be chaos and problems in our ability to communicate. When dogs develop health problems, it’s important to verify whether the problem is local or whether it may derive from a breakdown in our communication.

For example, the lower motor neurons are found by the spinal cord and innervate directly into the dog’s skeletal muscles. These neurons are known for innervating the dog’s front and back legs. When vets examine a dog’s legs, they may want to rule out any problems with our communications. During their neurological examination vets will therefore look for signs such as absence of a reflex, weakness (paresis) or paralysis (plegia) which denote some of spinal injury interfering with our communication. In the picture on the left, a neurologic deficit related to the spinal cord, causes this dog to fail to detect that the paw is not positioned correctly. In a dog with a healthy nervous system instead, he will quickly correct it. Unfortunately because we are such specialized cells, some of us cannot divide and create new cells as other cells do. As a result, it’s more challenging to recover from a brain or spinal cord injury compared to other injuries.

As seen, we do a whole lot! Actually, your life and your dog’s life depend on us. It is thanks to us that your dog feels emotions and sensations. It is thanks to us that your dog makes decisions. You must basically thank us for every action your dog makes, whether, mental or physical, conscious or reflexive. We are the working unit or your dog’s brain designed to relay information to other nerve cells, muscle, or gland cells. So every time your dog moves, reacts or thinks, give us a though and thank us for existing!

Yours truly

Your Dog’s Neurons.Dog Pawprint

idea tipDid you know? According to Live Science,  cats’ brains account for about 0.9 percent of their body mass, while dogs’ brains make up 1.2 percent. According to scientists though, a bigger brain doesn’t necessarily mean smarter; rather, the number of neurons may be more accurate. Considering that cats have 300 million neurons while dogs have 160 million, this may suggests cats are smarter than dogs, but dog lovers hold your horses: There are yet not enough studies on feline smarts to prove that.

 

References:

  • Live Science, Are Cats Smarter Than Dogs? retrieved from the web on July 18th, 2016.
  • Scientific American, Do Dogs Have Mirror Neurons? retrieved from the web on July 18th, 2016.
  • DVM360, The tetraparetic dog: The upper motor neuron, the lower motor neuron, and the in-between (Proceedings), retrieved from the web on July 18th, 2016.

Photo credits:

 

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What Happens When Dogs Hit Adolescence?

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Many dog owners may wonder whatever happened to their adorable puppy who used to listen, follow them room to room and looked forward to a fun training session. Suddenly, they are faced with a multitude of behavior problems that were never encountered before. Did Rover just transform himself into the canine personification of “Dennis the Menace?” In reality, what’s really happening is these dogs hit the doggy adolescence stage, yup the infamous rebellious teenager phase affects dogs too and it’s often when things start to get challenging. Knowledge is power though and being aware of this stage and knowing how to tackle it can help you survive in flying colors.

dog adolescenceA Time of Changes

All dogs go through the adolescent stage, the only difference is that in some dogs this phase is mild or barely noticeable (lucky owners!), while in others it almost becomes unbearable. Generally, how it affects dogs and dogs owners seems to vary on an individual basis and its impact may also depend on how dog owners tackle it.

Generally, dog owners struggling already with puppy behaviors may see a two-fold increase once the adolescent stage is around the corner. The adolescent stage in dogs is a transitory time during which dogs start looking more and more like adults but their brain may still retains some puppy-like behaviors. When dogs hit the dog adolescent stage, dog owners must therefore be prepared for the many physical and behavioral changes that will take place, as the dog’s body becomes populated with powerful hormones.

” As with humans, an animal’s juvenile and adolescent periods have a profound impact on the animal’s behavior. This is the most trying time when raising a pet, and a time when most owners reach the limits of their knowledge and fall short of their obligations as a responsible pet owner.”~ Lore I. Haug

Physical Changes in Adolescent Dogs

Several physical changes take place during a dog’s adolescent stage. The adult permanent teeth come in (move over puppy teeth!) and with this comes a renewed interest in chewing.  The puppy coat may start to shed out which in some breeds translates into massive piles of hair (get ready for making vacuuming your favorite pastime) and large dogs go through that gangly stage during which they reach their adult height but move around awkwardly. Yes, this is when running around and jumping around the house is no longer cute due to the “bull in a China shop” phenomenon!

During the adolescent dog stage, the dog’s head broadens, the muscles and bones becomes more strong and the reproductive system is in full swing to make these dogs suitable for raising the next generation of dogs. As the body prepares for reproductive success, female dogs will go through their first heat (estrus) which generally happens on average around 6 months and male dogs will respond to the release of powerful pheromones given off by these gals.

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Did you know? As adolescent dogs go through rapid growth, they  may develop mild or even severe pain. See your vet if this happens as some dogs may require medication or even surgery, while in others it may be self-limiting, explains veterinarian Dr. Frank Utchen.

Behavior Changes in Adolescent Dogs

Several behavior changes take place when dogs hit the adolescent stage. Male dogs, which undergo a testosterone surge between 5 and 18 months,  may become interested in marking their territory, but not all seem to follow a specific time frame as to when they start lifting their leg. Generally, this behavior is the result of watching other dogs who act as “doggy leg lifting” role models.

Mounting, roaming, urine marking and sniffing around may seem to be these dogs’ favorite pastimes. Behavior changes may be more prominent in male dogs, but female dogs are subject to them too.  Female dogs will come into their first heat which lasts about three weeks. She may become flirty during this time and urine mark  so her powerful pheromones inform male dogs about her availability.

Along with these behavior changes, come some bratty behaviors that irritate owners the most such as ignoring the owner, becoming more confident, having little impulse control and being more interested in the outside world than anything else. Puppies who seemed to be well house trained, may regress leaving around “accidents” for the owners to pick up. Some dogs become fearful and reactive towards stimuli that weeks prior didn’t seem to bother them.

At the dog park, adolescent dogs may no longer get along much with their pals, as they become more and more selective on who to consider friend or foe. Along with all that, comes the topping on the sundae: an abundance of energy which often leads to increased chewing, digging, barking, pulling on the leash and other undesirable behaviors. As the saying goes. “idle paws are a devil’s workshop” when it comes to bored, under-stimulated teenager dogs.

“Dogs do become more neophobic beginning around 6­-8 months. At this age, many dogs seem to begin showing fearful behavior toward stimuli that previously did not bother them. This is frequently the age at which  dogs begin to show some alarm barking and more wariness around strange dogs. “~  Dr. Lore Haug

german shepherdWhen Dogs Hit the Adolescent Stage

In nature, adolescence coincides with the time animals must make important decisions and must become more independent so to raise their own families.While to many this may appear like a rebellious, testing stage, dog owners shouldn’t take it personally; in reality it’s just a dog’s way to follow the course of nature.

The onset and end of this stage is a bit blurry to outline as it doesn’t begin or end abruptly and it varies from one dog to another. Generally speaking, dogs hit the adolescent stages between the ages of 4 and 6  months of age. Its duration though seems to vary as social maturity is reached at different times in dogs of different breeds and sizes.

Generally, in small dogs dog adolescence generally lasts up to when the dog reaches 18 to 24 months, while in large dogs it can linger around up to when the dog is 36 months old.

“Adolescence is the phase where nature demands that they learn to make decisions themselves based on their own reasoning. “Because I said so” is no longer good enough. They are biologically pushed to separate themselves from their parents and to do things their own way. It isn’t rebellion. It’s Nature.” ~Melissa Alexander

10 Tips for Surviving Your Dog’s Adolescencedog adolescence tips

Did you know? The majority of dogs surrendered at the shelter are in their adolescent period. Dogs who aren’t surrendered are often sadly banished to the yard where they are left with no guidance and are set up for failure. Don’t let this happen to you! Knowledge is power.

Many dog owners relinquish their pets to shelters or banish them to yard because they have failed to understand the needs of these dogs during this stage. Here are a few tips to help you survive your dog’s adolescent period.

The good thing about dogs is that their behavior is prone to changing; indeed, we can say that dogs are in a constant state of learning and that encompasses good or bad behaviors. Whether the dog learns to engage in good or bad behaviors is to a great extent really up to us. The plasticity of a dog’s brain makes it possible for dog owners to morph undesired behaviors into desirable ones, especially with early intervention. So here are 10 tips to help you survive your dog’s adolescence.

  1. Socialization is not only for puppies! Adolescent dogs need to continue to be socialized. Yes, there is such a thing as “de-socialization” which happens when dogs are walked on the same routes and only allowed to meet a small circle of people. After some time, “Mr. Social” takes a turn for the worse and starts becoming tense and wary when he meets unknown people or is exposed to situations or experiences he hasn’t been through for a while.
  2. Training doesn’t stop at puppy classes. Get your adolescent dog enrolled in basic obedience and then continue his education with advanced obedience, trick training or other obedience-based activities such as Rally-obedience or Canine Musical Freestyle.
  3. Consult with your vet on when it’s a good time to start any doggy sports or take your dog along for jogging.  An adolescent dog’s bones and joints are still developing and their growth plates still have to close. Intense exercise on hard surfaces may have permanent negative effects.
  4. Reward all those calm behaviors as they unfold and don’t forget to use all those life rewards that are in front of your nose!
  5. Polish your adolescent dog’s recall. While when your dog was a puppy loads of praise and a gentle pats may have been enough, now is the time to get out those high-value treats to make yourself more interesting than any surrounding stimuli.
  6. Ensure you meet your teenager dog’s exercise needs. Twice-a-day walks of at least 20 minutes each may be necessary. Fun games and outdoor activities will hep your dog’s body and mind healthy and happy.
  7. Provide plenty of chew toys to keep those jaws busy. Make it a habit of rotating them so that your dog gains a renewed interest in them when not seeing them for some time.
  8. Keep your dog’s brain mentally stimulated with challenging puzzles and interactive toys.
  9. See a behavior consultant sooner than later if you there are behavior problems you need help with. Behaviors nipped in the bud are more likely to be reversed or at least prevented from becoming worse before they get out of hand.
  10. Last but not least, be patient, consistent and understanding during these trying times. Your effort will be paid off once you start seeing that light at the end of tunnel!

 

References:

  • Clicker Solutions, Canine Adolescence, retrieved from the web on July 17th, 2016
  • Web Vets, Adolescent Dogs by Frank Utchen, DVM, retrieved from the web on July 17th, 2016
  • DVM360, Treat or euthanize: determining which patients can be helped (Proceedings), retrieved from the web on July 17th, 2016

Photo Credits:

 

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Read This if Your Dog Eats Bugs

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dog bugWe already know that dogs tend to eat the most odd things they encounter so it’s not surprising if they’re also interested in catching and eating bugs. With summer in full swing, the yard may be populated by a variety of bugs, it’s therefore not unusual for dogs to be attracted by their movements which triggers a dog’s predatory drive. One moment the dog may be chasing the bug, the next it has become his meal.. and a crunchy one too! A dog eating a bug may look like an innocent, yet gross pastime, but there are actually some dangers to be aware of that come along with this practice. But first a little head’s up: if you’re squeamish about seeing bugs, you may not want to scroll down or you may want to enlist the help of somebody who doesn’t share your entomophobia (yes, that’s the term for people who are scared of bugs!)

cockroachMy Dog Ate a Cockroach

Besides from being creepy critters, roaches can transmit parasites to your cat or dog. Cockroaches are carriers of Physaloptera spp, also known more commonly as the stomach worm, explains veterinarian Robert R. Hase, in an article for DVM360.

In order to get this parasite, your dog will have to ingest an infected roach which acts as an intermediate host.

Once the infective larvae are ingested (they come with the roach), they will develop into worms that attach to the dog’s stomach and intestinal lining causing physalopterosis, an infection of the gastrointestinal tract.

The most common symptoms associated with this disorder are vomiting, sometimes accompanied by loss of appetite and dark feces even though some cases remain asymptomatic. Don’t expect symptoms of this infection though to occur right away; symptoms from these worms tend to develop later on once the larvae mature into adults.

Dogs who vomit shortly after eating a cockroach are likely reacting to these bugs’ hard legs and wing casings which may irritate the stomach  On top of being carriers of the stomach worm, cockroaches can have a nice coating of roundworm eggs on their surface, which can be ingested when your puppy or dog plays with the roach and eats it, further adds Dr. Hase.

My Dog Ate a Cricketcricket

Among all bugs, crickets are very tempting for dogs to chase around because they hop in an unpredictable manner. Some dogs must find them tasty too as they happily chew on these crunchy bugs with a satisfied look on their faces!

Fortunately, crickets are not toxic to dogs and they’re also a good source of protein, minerals and fat,  so much so that they’re eaten by people across the globe.

However, other than being a good source of nutrients, crickets as cockroaches, may also be carriers of the “stomach worm”“Physaloptera spp.” However, don’t expect for your dog to get sick with these worms immediately after ingestion, it may take time for the worms to develop and start causing problems. If your dog vomits shortly after eating a cricket, it’s most likely caused by the cricket’s rough texture which according to veterinarian Dr. Gabby may irritate the dog’s stomach.

stink bugMy Dog Ate a Stink Bug

OK, most dogs won’t eat stink bugs for the simple fact that these bugs stink! The stink bug’s secretions, which are made of chemicals known as aldehydes, act as a deterrent and will cause drooling due to their bitter taste.

Other than tasting foul, those defensive secretions can also act as an irritant. If the stink bug secretions end up in the dog’s eyes, they may cause temporary stinging and pain.

While stink bugs aren’t really toxic to dogs, dogs who manage to ingest them may develop gastrointestinal upset and vomiting that generally is self-limited and resolves on its own in over 8 to 12 hours, explains veterinarian Dr. Gary.

My Dog Ate a Cicadacicada

Cicadas along with crickets, are commonly seen in the summer and they tend to make us aware of them courtesy of their singing. If your dog eats a cicada, you will likely hear a lot of crunching as they are quite big bugs.

According to veterinarian Dr. Peter, cicadas are not toxic, but their exoskeletons can irritate the dog’s gastrointestinal tract. Affected dogs may develop mild to severe vomiting and diarrhea in some cases. The good news is that other than causing some upset stomach in dogs, these bugs don’t sting or bite.

spiderMy Dog Ate a Spider

This can be concerning, especially when the ingested spider is a venomous one and the spider has managed to bite the dog. In a case of a dog bitten by a spider upon eating it, there would be drooling and oral pain, explains Dr. B, a licensed veterinarian.

However, according to Dr. Bruce the good news is that if the dog wasn’t bitten, the venom in the spider will get diluted and the dog’s stomach acid would digest the spider, causing no problems to the dog. So, yes, it’s quite important to determine whether the dog got bitten by a toxic spider or not and watch for signs of allergic reactions or toxicity. Keeping a watchful eye and consulting with a vet when in doubt is the best course of action.

My Dog ate  a Caterpillarcaterpillar

A dog eating a caterpillar can be concerning, considering that several species are toxic; therefore it all depends on the type ingested. Even if the caterpillar ingested would turn out not being toxic, the tiny hairs can cause irritation in the dog’s mouth and digestive tract.

According to veterinarian Mark Nunez, toxic caterpillars include the monarch butterfly caterpillar (which feeds on milkweed which contain chemicals that can be toxic to the heart,) the puss or asp caterpillar, the slug caterpillar, also known as saddleback, the hag moth or monkey slug, the gypsy moth which is popular in New England and the Lonomia species popular in Brazil.

When in doubt, best to consult with a vet if you suspect your dog ingested a caterpillar. Here are some pictures of stinging caterpillars from the University of Kentucky Entomology Department: Stinging Caterpillars.

fireflyMy Dog Ate a Firefly

Fireflies, also known as lightning bugs, can look like innocent critters, but fireflies of the Photinus genus are known to stir trouble for small animals. According to Doctors Foster and Smith, the light emitted by male fireflies helps them find a soul mate, but as with other colorful insects, it also functions as a “keep away” warning for potential predators. Fireflies are known to contain toxins known as “lucibufagins” which are toxic to lizards, amphibians, birds and possibly other animals.

While just one firefly is enough to kill a lizard or bird, it’s generally not a problem for a dog though, explains veterinarian Dr. Whitehead. However, it’s best monitor for any signs of trouble and promptly consult with the vet or the pet poison helpline if the dog develops any problems.

The Bottom Line

dog bug Luckily, most dogs eat bugs without any major problems. It’s important though to watch for encounters with toxic bugs and to keep an eye open for signs of allergic reactions (facial swelling, welts over the dog’s body) which can happen with any bug bites and ingestion of  toxic bugs.

While infestations with the stomach worm are a possibility, fortunately, they appear to be relatively infrequent in dogs. According to a survey conducted on euthanized dogs in Indiana, Physaloptera rara was found in the digestive tract of 4 out of 104 dogs. Albeit, unlikely, it’s not a bad idea to keep your dog away from bugs. The habit of dogs eating bugs is another good reason why it’s wise to keep dogs on parasite prevention year-round, suggests veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker.

“In most cases, eating a grasshopper or some termites won’t harm your dog and can even add a little protein to his diet. Think of bugs as the canine equivalent of corn chips.” ~Dr. Marty Becker

Disclaimer: this article is not meant to be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog ate a bug that is toxic or you suspect your dog may have gotten bitten please consult with your vet or the pet poison helpline.

References:

  • Physaloptera stomach worms associated with chronic vomition in a dog in western Canada James A. Clark Can Vet J Volume 31, December 1990
  • Burrows CF. Infection with the stomach worm Physaloptera as a cause of chronic vomiting in the dog. J Am Anim Hosp Assoc 1983; 19: 947-950.
  • Merck Veterinary Manual, Physaloptera spp in Small Animals, retrieved from the web on July 16th, 2016
  • DVM360, Five strange facts about parasites, retrieved from the web on July 16th, 2016
  • All Things Dogs Blog, Ask the Vet, retrieved from the web on July 16th, 2016

Photo credits:

  • Flickr Creative Commons,  Kristal Dale, DSC_0406, The dog, up to no good again. CCBY2.0

Five Fascinating Facts About Dog Whiskers

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Want some fascinating facts about dog whiskers? Well, let’s start with an obvious one: dog owners don’t really pay much attention to them, and sometimes they even cut them off as if they really don’t serve any purpose, but those facial hairs are actually important for several different reasons! You might think that dog whiskers aren’t as fascinating as cat whiskers, but when it comes to canines, those whiskers still play many important roles that we often take for granted. So today, let’s discover five fascinating facts about dog whiskers that will explain why dogs have whiskers in the first place and why you should think twice before trimming dog whiskers.

dog face1) Dog Whiskers Work Like Antennas

Whiskers are unlike any other hairs found on your dog’s body; they are thicker, longer and sprout from a hair follicle that’s highly innervated by an abundance of sensory nerves responsible for helping your dog navigate the world around him.

Also known as “vibrissae,” whiskers tend to work in an antenna-like function.

Basically, when anything in your dog’s environment happens to rub against your dog’s whiskers, the whiskers vibrate, stimulating special nerves found in the hair follicles which in turn provide feedback about the surrounding environment, explains veterinarian Dr. Mary Fuller.  For a good reason the word vibrissae, comes from the ancient Latin word “vibrio” which means “to vibrate!”

dog tipDid you know? Out of all the areas the brain invests in registering tactile information, 40 percent is dedicated to the dog’s facial area, explains Stanley Coren.

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2) Dog Whiskers Have Different Nameswhisker

“Tell me where your dog’s whiskers are and I will give you their name based on their location.”

Yes, dog whiskers have different names which can sometimes sound a tad bit technical, but they are sure interesting to discover. Let’s start with the most popular ones, those long, horizontal ones sprouting from the dog’s muzzle which sit comfortably on top of Rover’s upper lip. These whiskers are known as “mystacial whiskers” and that’s because they somewhat resemble a mustache.

If we travel towards the end of the dog’s cheek we’ll find  instead the “genal whiskers,” while if we take a peek under the dog’s chin we may stumble on a mole-like spot that houses a little set of whiskers known as “interramal tufts.”  And what about those whiskers above the dog’s eyes? Those are known as “supraorbital whiskers.” Fascinating stuff, huh?

 

dog whisker under chin3) Dog Whiskers Help with Blind Spots

Cars and trucks aren’t the only ones to have blind spots, turns out dogs have blind spots too. If you ever wondered why your dog doesn’t see that treat that’s right under his nose, it’s either because its color doesn’t stand out in the background as dogs don’t see colors like we do, or because it’s located right within the dog’s blind spot.

While mystacial whiskers provide dogs with information about what’s on their left and what’s on their right right, especially in low-light conditions, his interramal tuft on the chin informs him about what’s found right under his head.

This feature comes handy when he needs to determine how close or far is muzzle is from his food or water bowl or how close his head is from the ground when he’s out and sniffing. Those hairs also turn helpful when he’s digging to his heart’s content and sticks his head in a hole or tunnel.

 

4) Dog Whiskers Have A Protective Function

fingers

On top of providing information about a dog’s surroundings so the dog can navigate safely, whiskers also fulfill an important protective role.

In particular, the whiskers above a dog’s eyes, the “supraorbital whiskers,” function as an extension of the dog’s eyelashes. Basically, they protect the dog’s eyes from any harm by triggering a reflexive blinking action.

This reflex must have played an important evolutionary advantage considering how important a dog’s eyes were in their past when hunting for their dinner or preventing themselves from becoming dinner for other predators.

Still as today, those whiskers can help prevent the eyes from being poked and injured by objects in the dog’s environment.

You might have stumbled on this reflex at some time or another when trying to place eye drops in your dog’s eyes or when upon petting your dog’s head you inadvertently tapped those hairs causing your dog’s eye on the same side of the face to blink.

 

DOG FUR5) Dog Whiskers Tend to Grow Back

“Help! I cut my dog’s whiskers while grooming her, will they grow back?” This is something that many dog owners may be concerned about. No big worries though, groomers tend to cut those dog whiskers at times to attain a neater look of the outline of the jaw.

Whether your groomer cut them off when trimming your dog’s facial hairs or you accidentally cut your dog’s whiskers while shaving her, the good news is that, yes, they will grow back.

In the meanwhile though, there are chances your dog may feel a bit odd and he may need a bit of time to adjust how he navigates around his surroundings, explains veterinarian Roger L. Welton.

 

 

References:

  • Psychology Today, Why do dogs have whiskers? Retrieved from the web on July 15th, 2016
  • Vet Street, What’s the deal with whiskers? Retrieved from the web on July 15th, 2016

 

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Dog Breeds With Dreadlocks

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Among the vast variety of dogs coming in all sorts of different shapes and sizes, dog breeds with dreadlocks surely stand out from the crowd. You might not stumble too often on these fellows unless you visit their country of origin or admire them competing in the show ring, but they surely boast unusual hairdos that people often compare to a kitchen mop. Interestingly, several of these dog breeds with dreadlocks didn’t develop their hairdos just for looks; indeed, if we look at these dogs’ past history as working dogs, we will see how those dreadlocks fulfilled a couple of important fuctions.

Three Dogs Breeds With Natural Dreadlocks

For those who wish to be precise, the correct term for those twisted hairs is “cords.” While there are several dog breeds sporting dreadlocks, this list of dog breeds fashion cords that occur naturally, mostly without any human intervention. Selective breeding throughout the years, led to the development of dreadlocks which played a role in allowing these dogs to be the excellent working dogs they were meant to be. Several other breeds boasting dreadlocks instead develop them with the help of humans,  by “semi manipulating” their coat for showing purposes. We will see these other breeds with in a further section.

fully cordedKomondor

The American Kennel Club describes this breed as having a coat “covered with an unusual, heavy coat of white cords.” During puppy hood, this breed’s coat is relatively soft and wavy, but it lacks its signature tassel-like cords.

It’s only once the puppy matures that the coarse hairs of the top coat trap the dense, wool-like undercoat naturally forming the traditional cords that feel like felt upon being touched.

Generally, by the age of two, the coat is expected to be corded, otherwise it’s means for disqualification in the show ring. The coat is expected to be always white in an adult dog.

 

idea tipWhy does the Komondor have a corded coat? Despite its fashionable looks, this breed is a working dog at heart. Komondors were selectively bred to be flock guardians, guarding livestock on the open plains of Hungary with little or no assistance from their owners. The appearance of the Komondor’s coat helps him blend with his flock of sheep and there’s belief it also protects him from from wolves’ bites and the elements. Today, the Komondor breed is considered one of Hungary’s national treasures that’s meant to be preserved and protected from modifications.

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The Pulipuli

Another dog breed known for its dreadlocks, the puli is another Hungarian dog breed that’s often confused with the Komondor, but unlike the Komondor, this breed can come in different coat colors other than white.

Indeed, this breed is allowed to boast rusty black, black and all shades of gray, and white coat colors.

As the Komondor, this dog breed works with flocks of sheep, but rather than guarding them, the puli herds the flocks on the vast Hungarian plains.

While this breed boasts long, flat or round dreadlocks that may reach the ground, it can be shown in the ring also brushed.

idea tipWhy does the puli have a corded coat?  According to the Puli Club of America,the corded coat in this breed starts developing naturally around the age of 9 months. Just like the Komondor, it’s the result of the top coat hairs mingling with the undercoat’s hairs. Both the Komondor and puli coat requires lots of care to ensure the cords don’t grow into forming painful and unsightly mats.

Did you know? The puli and Komondor were often used together to work as a team. The Komondor would guard the livestock at night, while the Puli herded and guarded during the day.

 

 bergamascoThe Bergamasco

This is a new breed that has been recently welcomed to the American Kennel Club’s registry.

Like the Komondor and puli, the Bergamasco boasts dreadlocks. Unlike the Komodor and puli though, rather than being called “cords” this breed’s Rasta-like hairs are known as “flocks.”

According to the American Kennel Club, this breed’s most distinctive feature is its unique coat which is made up of three types of hair: the undercoat, the “goat hair” and the outer coat.

The undercoat is short, dense and oily to the touch so to provide a waterproof layer against the skin.

The goat hair is long hair that’s straight and rough and falls into cords found in this dog’s ‘saddle area’ and head where the flocks cover the eyes.

The outer coat instead is woolly hair that is more fine than the goat type.

Unlike the komondor and puli, a solid white coat color is not accepted, while solid gray or gradations of gray are accepted.

As with other dog breeds with dreadlocks covering the legs and rest of the body, the corded coat in this breed is meant to protect the dog from weather and potential predators.

idea tipWhy does the Bergamasco have a corded coat?According to the Bergamasco Sheepdog Club of America, the flocks were meant to protect these dogs from the freezing temperatures found in the cold Italian Alps and prevented the risks for sunburns in the summer.

 Wanna Be Rastafarianskomodor

These are dog breeds known for boasting a corded coat courtesy of owners “semi manipulating” their coats for the purpose of showing them in the ring.

Of course, not all dogs’ coats can be “semi manipulated” to form dreadlocks as the coat needs to have certain characteristics; therefore only some breeds can have a corded-like coat.

Following are some dogs breeds that have a coat that can be morphed into dreadlocks.

 

  • Poodles. This breed’s naturally curly locks lend themselves to become corded if the hairs are coarse enough, but owners must patiently work on cording the coat themselves. This can be a painstakingly slow process, but the effort is surely rewarded in the show ring as poodles may look amazing when sporting a corded coat.
  • The Spanish water dog.  This dog breed also has a coat that lends itself to cording.  Like the poodle, the hair is curly, but unlike the Komondor and puli, it’s a single coat. According to the Spaniel Water Dog Club of America, the secret behind a corded look is to shave down the coat and then allow the coat to grow and keep it from forming knots.
  • Havanese.  The Havanese can join the wannabe Rastafarian group as long as dog owners are willing to put the effort in creating sections of hair that can grow together and form cords that need to be checked and re-checked to prevent them from matting. For those who think this is easy enough, consider that according to the Havanese Rescue website the process can take up to two years!

 

References:

  • American Kennel Club, Puli breed standard, retrieved from the web on July 14th, 2016
  • American Kennel Club, Komondor breed standard, retrieved from the web on July 14th, 2016
  • The dog selector, by David Alderton, 2010, Barron’s Educational Series (September 1, 2010)
  • Spaniel Water Dog Club of America, Cording your Spanish Water Dog, retrieved from the web on July 14th, 2016
  • Havanese Rescue, Grooming a Havenese, retrieved from the web on July 14th, 2016
  • Puli Club of America, FAQ about the Puli dog breed, retrieved from the web on July 14th, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • A fully corded coat. The coat is long, thick and strikingly corded Wiki.awal – Own work, Komondor dog breed CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Black Puli Anita Ritenour – Flickr: Moumental Puli, CC BY 2.0
  • A young bergamasco, Chique Adulation, owned by Mrs Rottger, Source: photo taken by Sannse at the City of Birmingham Championship Dog Show, 30th August 2003. photo imported from the english wikipedia,author: Sannse Permission: photo under licence GFDL

 

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Dog Word of the Day: Impulse Control

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Among the many behavior traits of dogs, impulse control is likely something most dog owners would like to see more in their dogs, because let’s face it: left to their own devices, dogs and animals in general don’t really have much tendency (or interest) in controlling their urges. Carpe diem, “seize the day” seems to be a good motto for dogs, and who can blame them? If a sandwich is sitting on the table and nobody is around to claim it, why not eat it? If a squirrel end in the yard, why not chase it?  This is where training comes into place. After all, if we think about it, dog training aims for a good part in helping dogs learn how to cope with the temptation for an immediate reward in exchange delayed gratification.

Impulse Control Definition

Impulse control, as the name implies, involves being capable of resisting the impulse to perform an action. As much as the power to control impulses may seem like what differentiates humans from animals, consider that among us humans, impulse control can also be difficult to exert in certain occasions. Just think about the term “impulse buyers” referring to people who cannot control their impulse to buy things despite not needing them or not having the financial means to pay them off. There several other forms of impulse control problems affecting humans such as binge eating; the urge to overeat in certain situations, or pathological gambling; the urge to gamble despite loss of money, job and family relationships. And of course, there are several other addictions.

Fortunately, dogs aren’t much prone to some of the impulse control disorders humans may suffer from such as drinking or gambling; instead, most of their impulse control “problems” stem from natural behaviors that are self-reinforcing or that bring some sort of external reward. Jumping on people, chasing after a squirrel, pulling on the leash, eating food when it drops, are some behaviors dog owners often complain about. Dealing with these “problems” takes teaching dogs coping mechanisms and that patience ultimately pays off.

A Matter of Agegerman shepherd puppy dog food

Just like children, dogs are more adept into learning better impulse control as they mature. Puppies and young dog may have a hard time learning to control their impulses, but as they mature, this ability becomes more ingrained. This is also a reason why dogs  such as service dogs and police dogs are sent to “serious training” after reaching maturity. Sure, training can (and should) start as early as possible since puppies require early socialization and training in basic manners, but generally advanced training starts when the dogs are mentally and physically ready for the demands of such advanced training.

According to Steven Lindsay, impulse control in young pups is not  really much feasible from a developmental standpoint as they yet haven’t developed  the neuro-biological capacity to exert impulse control in a ” refined and reliable way.” He adds that the regulation of impulses likely takes place in the dog’s pre-frontal cortex and that the area is not developed until later in the dog’s first year when cognitive abilities start emerging.

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“A puppy under one year of age is not mentally or emotionally up to the challenge of shouldering the full responsibilities of a service dog and pushing them into that position is very highly likely to burn them out so that they don’t want to be a service dog when they get older.” ~Service Dog Central

impulse control dogSix Exercises to Teach Impulse Control in Dogs

Most of these exercises entail teaching the dog that his impulsive behavior will no longer yield them a reward. If you think about it, most undesirable dog behaviors persist because the dog is being rewarded for his actions in some way. Your dog pulls on walks? Pulling get him faster and closer to what he wants to to reach. Your dog acts impatient when you prepare his meal? His impatient behavior is rewarded by being fed the meal. Tackling these issues therefore requires teaching the dog that these rewards are now contingent upon calm behaviors, and no longer the other way around.

Many of these exercises incorporate a “stay” to some extent. The stay cue is a very helpful for teaching impulse control, so if your dog knows this cue already, he’s at an advantage. He will just need to have it gradually “proofed” to certain distracting situations.

Before starting these exercises it’s important to read the “A Word of Caution” section so to be prepared on what to expect. If in any doubt, please consult with a dog trainer or behavior consultant invested in using positive training methods.

 

1) Calm Walks Towards the Doorrott

What happen in your home when it’s time to go on a walk? Does your dog go bonkers and starts jumping and pulling when you put the leash on and walk towards the door? Time for a change! So put the leash on as usual, but this time, go sit on the couch the moment he starts acting up. Your dog will be surprised by this change of routine, but he’ll soon catch up once he’ll put his brain to work and starts understanding the new dynamics. At first, he may get impatient, he might try to pull you towards the door or start jumping or chewing on the leash. Do nothing in this case, just wait it out. At some point your dog will calm down and perhaps sit or lie down. When he does this, say “yes” and get up and walk towards the door. If he starts acting hyper again, walk back to the couch and sit down once again. Wait for your dog to sit once again or lie down and then say “yes!” and get up again. Rinse and repeat several times until you’re able to walk calmly towards the door. After several days of doing this exercise, you can try the next exercise.

“By reinforcing for certain body postures associated with relaxation, the body can be conditioned to achieve those states more frequently. This is a matter of maximizing the use of classical conditioning during operant training…Eventually relaxed muscles, lowered heart rate and respiratory rate etc. become classically conditioned to the “sit” cue and the sit position. “~The Dog Trainer’s Resource

door2) Automatic Sits at the Door 

What happens in your home when you put on the leash and you open the door? Does your dog bolt out of the door risking that your elbow coming out of its socket? Well, starting today, it’s time for a change. Here’s how. After your dog gets good at sitting down when you put the leash on and calmly walking towards the door, it’s time to ask for automatic sits by the door. Ask your dog to sit and open the door only if he stays seated. If he gets up from the sit, close the door. When he sits again start opening the door, but be ready to close if he gives any signs of getting up. This exercises will entail opening and closing the door several times at first, but eventually your dog will learn that. when he sits, the door opens, when he gets up, the door starts closing.

When he stays nicely put despite the door being open, say “yes!” and go on your walk. If you want to further raise the bar, you can train your dog to sit the moment you place your hand on the door knob. After some time, your dog should learn to sit automatically when he’s in front of the door. Remember: always practice this on leash!

“Truly conditioned default, or automatic, behaviors can override instinctive behaviors. A default behavior is one that the dog can fall back on when he is upset, frustrated, excited, or just plain wants something he’s not getting.” ~Leslie McDevitt

3) Calmer Outdoor Walks sit

What happens when you go on a walk? Is your dog pulling you left and right to go meet other dogs, people or to go sniff a bush or go mark a lamppost? Well, in these cases your dog is seeking instant gratification, and keeps doing this because of the reward of getting to greet people, meeting other dogs,  sniffing the bush and peeing on the lamppost. Starting today though, you will teach him that only calm behavior grants him access to these things.

So from today, switch the rules around. A slack leash becomes your accelerator and a tight leash becomes your break. Make it very clear,  praise your dog when the leash is slack, say “yes!,” give a treat if you wish, and resume walking.

Remember to slow down walking when your dog starts walking ahead and come to a stop when he’s actively pulling. Call him by your side so the leash is slack again, say “yes” and resume walking. After a while , your dog will understand the new rules of the game.

Don’t forget to reward him every now and then when the leash is slack by sending him to sniff the bush or mark the lamppost, but you might want to stop letting him meet and greet people and other dogs to avoid future problems. Not all people or dogs may be eager to meet your dog!

 

food4) Waiting For Food

What happens in your home when it’s your dog’s meal time? Are you surrounded by your pacing dog whining and circling around you like a shark? For sake of comparison, that’s like a person at a restaurant complaining that food service is too slow. “Hurry up mom! Get that food ready, now!” If you just put the food bowl down when your dog is acting this way, congratulations, you have just rewarded his behavior, so next time, expect this behavior to pop up again, and even get worse.

Instead, starting today, try to teach your dog how to control himself more. You might get a bit of complaining  especially at the beginning, but if you persevere, you will start seeing results. Here’s what to do. While your dog is out in the yard or somebody is walking him, prepare his food in advance. Then, call your dog. Ask him to sit and only once he’s sitting, lower the food bowl. If he gets up from the sit before you put the bowl down, immediately raise the food bowl. When he sits again, start lowering it. You might find yourself lowering and raising the food bowl repeatedly, but that’s OK, it won’t take long for your dog to learn that “when my bottom is on the floor, the food bowl gets closer, and when I get up it gets out of reach.” Finally, when your dog sits and stays seated until the food bowl is down, praise him and let him enjoy his meal. Good boy!

5)  Leaving Dropped Itemsleave it

What happens in your home when you drop something on the floor? Does your dog rush over to eat it likes there’s no tomorrow? What if you move away from the table a moment? Does he steal your sandwich? In such a case, you may want to teach your dog to control his urge to eat anything in sight, but most importantly, you may want to safeguard your dog from ingesting something potentially harmful one day. You may therefore want to teach your dog that “leaving it” and delaying instant gratification is worthy big time.

To teach this valuable lesson, prepare yourself with some high-value treats that are higher in value than the items you are planning to practice “leave it” with. So you can start by holding the lower value food in your hand. When he tries to get it, say “leave it” and close your hand. When he gives up trying, say yes! and reward him with something that’s higher value in your other hand. Or say you drop something on the floor, like a piece of bread, then, the moment your dog walks towards it, you would say “leave it” as you step on it with your foot. Your dog may go towards your foot and try sniffing it or try grabbing it from under your foot. Wait it out. When your dog gives up, say “yes!” and give him the high-value treat. Repeat this several times, gradually introducing different (and safe) items to practice with until your dog is able to ‘leave it” without you covering the item with your foot. Practice adding distance too, so that you can say “leave it” when you are across the room and your dog will come to you happily in anticipation of his well-earned reward.

6) Structured Gamesjazz up

What happens in your home when you grab a toy and are ready to play with your dog? Does your dog go bonkers, barking and spinning in circles? Time for a change! If your dog loves to fetch, start asking him to sit before you toss the ball. Then let him fetch it and then rinse and repeat. If your dog at any times starts barking or spinning don’t toss it though as you only want to reward calm behaviors. If your dog was used to you tossing the ball when he was acting impatient, expect his behavior to escalate (extinction burst)  a bit before he gets the idea that only calm behaviors get you tossing the ball. Ready for another challenge? Ask your dog to sit and stay even once the ball touches the ground. This might take a while to master, but it’s another good exercise to train for those dogs who need more impulse control or if you want to impress your family and friends.

Another great games to teach is Ian Dunbar’s Jazz up and Settle Down game. In this game, you will be basically purposely getting your dog revved up with a toy as you act silly, but then in the midst of all, you will be asking your dog to sit. When he sits, you will be rewarding your dog for the calm behavior by resuming the game. This game provides you with a handy “off switch” for those times your dog is acting hyper.

A Word of Caution

If your dog has a history of lacking impulse control, expect to encounter a few bumps on your journey to teaching him calmer behaviors. What happens when you always brought candy to your child and then one day out of the blue, you realize you don’t have change in your pocket? Your child will likely have big temper tantrum and you would likely have to leave the store to save yourself from a very embarrassing situation! The same can happen to your dog. It might not be a tantrum, but you may notice that your dog starts scratching himself, sneezing, yawning, barking or pawing on you. These are often displacement behaviors meant to manifest his confusion, stress or frustration. If you notice any of these, it can be sign that your dog is not ready yet for this level of impulse control. What to do in these cases?

If you know your dog is prone to getting frustrated, you can try making the exercise easier by splitting it in smaller steps or giving frequent rewards under the form of treats (use kibble if high-value treats make your dog impatient) at first when your dog performs the calm behavior and then gradually weaning them off, until your dog can sit and wait for the final reward (eg, getting out the door, going to sniff a bush or eating his meal). Here’s another important tip:  to set your dog for success, ensure his needs for exercise and mental stimulation are met before doing these impulse control exercises. If you are struggling getting your dog to calm down or if your dog appears aggressive at any time during these exercises, please consult with a dog trainer/ behavior professional invested in positive reinforcement.

Did you know? Impulse control can be improved courtesy of training and signs of improvement are marked by certain changes occurring in the brain, according to a new Queen’s University study.

References:
  • Phys.org, Researchers locate impulse control center in brain, retrieved from the web on July 13th, 2016
  • Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, Vol. 3: Procedures and Protocols Volume Three Edition
    by Steven R Lindsay, Wiley-Blackwell; Volume Three edition (June 15, 2005)
  • Cross-sectional study of object permanence in domestic puppies (Canis familiaris).
    Gagnon, Sylvain; Doré, François Y.Journal of Comparative Psychology, Vol 108(3), Sep 1994, 220-232
  • The Dog Trainer’s Resource: The APDT Chronicle of the Dog Collection (Volume 1) Paperback – August 30, 2006 by Mychelle E. Blake, Dogwise Publishing (August 30, 2006)
  • Control Unleashed: Creating a Focused and Confident Dog Paperback– Black & White, 2007, by Leslie McDevitt, Clean Run Productions/CRP (2007)

 

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What Dog Breed Walks Over Sheep?

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There are dogs who gather sheep, dogs who stare at sheep, dogs who count sheep (the lazy ones, at least) and dogs who walk over them when the need occurs. Wait, a minute, did you just say “walk over sheep?” Yes, that’s correct. There is a dog breed in particular that’s known for walking on the back of sheep. Do the sheep mind? Well, that’s beyond the scope of this article, but it’s sure impressive watching these dogs in action when the need arises. So today’s trivia question is:

Which dog breed is known for walking over the backs of sheep?

A Australian shepherd

B Australian cattle dog

C Australian Koolie

D Australian Kelpie

The correct answer is: drumroll please….

drum

 

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The correct answer is: D, the Australian kelpie.

Introducing the Kelpie

The Australian kelpie, also known simply as kelpie, is an Australian sheepdog that is very talented in performing several tasks. This breed is capable of moving herds of sheep, cattle and goats over long distances and gathering them up with little of no guidance from humans. In Australia, there are two different registries when it comes to this breed: working kelpies which encompass dogs purposely bred for their working ability, and show kelpies which encompass dogs mostly bred for appearance rather than working ability. Today, we will be focusing on the working kelpies.

australian kelpieA Great Working Partner

Kelpies are quite valuable to Australian farmers looking for an effective worker capable of gathering livestock and preventing them from moving away. Kelpies are known for quietly moving ahead of the stockman and blocking the movement of livestock until the rider arrives.

They help keep the livestock at bay and then move then as needed from the pasture to the pen or into the truck.

As mentioned, kelpies are also great drover dogs moving livestock over long distances despite difficult climate and conditions.

The signature move of this breed though is walking over the backs of sheep..

Watch Your Back!

sheep

Why did the kelpie walk over the backs of sheep? It’s easy, to get to the other side. Jokes aside, kelpies do really walk over sheep as the picture above and the video below can attest. Why do they do that though? Well, imagine several sheep packed tightly like sardines within a pen, how can the kelpie get to other side? Should he just give up? No, giving up is not an option for this breed. Should he try to fly? Well, if he could, he certainly would.

No, instead the smart and determined kelpie uses his brain and figures out that the fastest and shortest way to get to the other side is to just jump up on the back of the closest sheep and carefully move across the flock! This signature move has even a name, it’s known as “sheep backing.” Sheep backing is a natural behavior that most confident kelpies will do, but in some cases, it may require some training, explains Kevin Reeves, breeder and owner of Lyndhurst Working Kelpies. Their ability to jump and balance themselves is quite impressive, but we’re sure if sheep had something to say, it wouldn’t be very nice…”Yo, kelpie, stop stepping on our baaaaacks!”

 

Did you know? Not only are kelpies capable of jumping on the backs of sheep but they also excel in jumping over very high gates. Just recently, a kelpie known as “Bailey” broke the Casterton Kelpie Muster Kelpie jumping competition record in Victoria as she cleared a 2.951-metre barrier, breaking the previous record set in 2007.

 

References:

  • Lyndhurst Working Kelpies, Sheep Backing, retrieved from the web on July 12th, 2016
  • Wikipedia, Australian Kelpie, retrieved from the web on July 12th, 2016

Photo Credits:

  • Wikipedia, An Australian Kelpie walking across the backs of the sheep.Martin Pot (Martybugs at en.wikipedia) Australian Kelpie walking across the backs of sheep, The Shearing Shed, Yallingup, Western Australia CC BY 3.0

 

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