June 2016 - Page 2 of 3 - Daily Dog Discoveries

I am Your Dog’s Hypothalamus

June 27, 2016June 20, 2016 by Admin

Among the many structures that are part of a dog’s brain, the hypothalamus deserves a place of honor. This is a tiny structure carrying out many important roles. Responsible for many nervous system and metabolic processes, life without a well-functioning hypothalamus would equate to a total disaster, surely leading to the wipe-out of an entire species. So today we will be discovering more about a dog’s hypothalamus, the many roles this structure plays in a dog’s life and the negative consequences when things go wrong. So let’s have the dog’s hypothalamus directly tell us his/her story!

Introducing the Dog’s Hypothalamus

Hello, it’s your dog’s hypothalamus talking! As you already know, I am a tiny structure that resides in your dog’s brain. but don’t underestimate my size! My name derives from my location, the word “hypo” is the Greek word for “under” while the word “thalamus” refers to “the part of the brain where a nerve emerges.” I am therefore called this way because I am located just below the thalamus, the dog’s relay center for sensory and motor pathways in the brain. I play an important role in connecting the dog’s nervous system with the endocrine system and do many, many things. Following is a rundown of the many tasks I am proud to accomplish!

I am a Gauge

I am responsible for maintaining homeostasis, a state of balance or equilibrium in your dog’s body despite changes that are often outside of your dog’s control. It is thanks to me therefore that your dog is able to survive and engage in normal day-to-day activities. Here is a a brief rundown of some of my important tasks:

I works as a thermostat, making sure your dog’s body temperature is maintained at a a constant level. This is known as “thermoregulation” For example, when I detect a fever and its associated rise in temperature, I will send commands so to (hopefully!) be able to lower it down to its normal levels. In the same way, should I detect cold, I will get your dog to shiver so his temperature can be brought back up.
I make sure your dog’s blood glucose levels stay within normal levels and I regulate your dog’s appetite. According to Pet Education, when glucose levels are high, as seen after a meal, insulin is released and glucose is therefore allowed to access the cells within me. This increase in glucose therefore decreases the sensation of hunger. However, after a while, once blood glucose levels drop, since the cells within me have less glucose available, I will trigger a sensation of hunger so that I am replenished with glucose again.
I ensure your dog’s blood pressure stays within a normal level. By the way, normal in dogs is considered Systolic 140, Diastolic 75 mm Hg.
I monitor your dog’s body water content and electrolyte balance triggering thirst so your dog drinks and replenishes those fluids as needed.
I regulate your dog’s sleep, keeping an eye on those wake-sleep cycles and circadian rhythms.

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I am a Working Partner

You’ll often find me working on controlling hormones that are released by the pituitary gland, also known as the ‘master endocrine gland’ of your dog’s body. You see, the pituitary gland and I are close friends connected by a slender stalk. Upon receiving a signal from the nervous system, I secrete special neurohormones which are responsible for stopping or starting the production of pituitary hormones (releasing or inhibiting factors). Several of these hormones play a role in maintaining homeostasis as discussed above. The hormones include the following:

Anti-diuretic hormone (ADH,) also known as vasopressin: a hormone secreted by the posterior pituitary gland that causes the kidneys to conserve water by concentrating urine and reducing its volume. Basically, an osmoreceptor, a smart sensory receptor that’s primarily present in me, detects changes in the dog’s blood level of dilution. If the blood is too concentrated or diluted, a signal is sent to the me so that I can increase or decrease vasopressin (ADH) in an effort to return the dog’s blood concentration to normal.
Corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH): a hormone that tells the dog’s anterior pituitary gland to trigger the adrenal glands to release corticosteroids, as a response to physiologic, psychologic or emotional stress (the “fight or flight” response.)
Gonadotropin-releasing hormone (GnRH): a hormone that tells the anterior pituitary to release follicle stimulating hormone (FSH) and luteinizing hormone (LH). These are hormones that work as a team to ensure the dog’s ovaries and testes work normally.
Thyrotropin releasing hormone (TRH): a hormone that causes the release of thyroid stimulating hormones (TSH), responsible for releasing thyroid hormones.
Oxytocin: a hormone that is known to help release breast milk and that stimulates contractions of the muscles of the uterus during birth.
Prolactin-releasing hormone (PRH) a hormone that tells the anterior pituitary to induce the production of breast milk courtesy of prolactin.
Prolactin-inhibiting hormone (PIH)a hormone that inhibits prolactin, and thereby, inhibits milk production.
Growth hormone-releasing hormone (GHRH): a hormone that tells the anterior pituitary to release growth hormones.
Growth hormone-inhibiting hormone (GHIH,) also known as somatostatin,: a hormone that tells the anterior pituitary to inhibit growth hormones.

Did you know? Darcy F. Morey, in the book “Dogs: Domestication and the Development of a Social Bond” explains how the hypothalamus was a structure that sustained significant changes in the neurochemical features of domesticated foxes in Belyaev’s famous farm fox experiment.

When Things Go Wrong

When I secrete insufficient amounts of corticotropin- releasing hormone (CRH) it can trigger secondary hypoadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease). Basically, here’s what happens. I secretes corticotropin-releasing hormone, CRH, which acts on the pituitary gland, triggering it to release adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH), which in turn stimulates the adrenal gland to produce cortisol. The cortisol then returns to the hypothalamus and the pituitary gland which regulate the production of CRH and ACTH. Now, sometimes adrenal glands are affected by tumors which cause them to release excessive cortisol. The more cortisol the adrenal glands secrete, the less CRH and ACTH are secreted, which, you named it, leads to problems.

Even though it’s possible for thyroid problems to arise due to a dysfunction taking place anywhere in the hypothalamic-pituitary-thyroid axis, according to Merck Veterinary Manual the chances for this happening are fortunately quite low considering that over 95 percent of clinical cases of hypothyroidism derives from destruction of the thyroid gland, a condition known as primary hypothyroidism.

I also play a role in the onset of diabetes. Remember how I explained how I cause a sense of hunger when my cells are not receiving glucose? Well, in diabetes, despite the production of glucose, my cells are unable to receive any glucose so they keep informing the body that it is hungry and needs food! So affected dog will eat more, but since the glucose doesn’t ever get to reach my cells, it will build up in the bloodstream, and sometimes at dangerous levels!

Did you know? In a study by Denis Burdakov, Simon M Luckman, and Alexei Verkhratsky the authors explain that the brain risks becoming irreversibly damaged when it’s deprived of glucose, even if just for a few minutes! The incredible importance of having adequate concentrations of glucose is likely why the brain itself has evolved to becoming the main means for monitoring and responding to changes in glucose, rather than relying on other peripheral organs like the liver!
Last but not least, in certain circumstances, I can become damaged such as in the case of a car accident, a surgery gone wrong, degeneration due to old age or the presence of a tumor (usually detectable via MRI). When this happens, the symptoms you notice will vary based on the part of me that’s damaged. As you can imagine, since I carry out so many tasks the health repercussions can be many!

The Bottom Line

As seen, I am quite an important structure! Actually, I think I play the most important role in the dog’s endocrine system. By telling the pituitary gland to release certain hormones, I make sure that all the internal processes of your dog’s body are working normally as they should. Hey, here’s an interesting final fact for you: I am an area of the brain that has well-documented differences between males and females. Just thought this is another interesting fact you may be interesting in that makes me even more unique!

Yours truly,
Your dog’s hypothalamus

References:

Dogs: Domestication and the Development of a Social Bond, By Darcy F. Morey, Cambridge University Press; 1 edition (April 12, 2010)
Introduction to Veterinary Anatomy and Physiology, By Victoria Aspinall, Melanie Cappello, Butterworth-Heinemann; 2 edition (May 4, 2009)
Pet Education, Diabetes Mellitus in Cats: Causes & Characteristics, retrieved from the web on June 20th, 2016
Long Beach Animal Hospital, Cushing’s, (Hyperadrenocorticism), retrieved from the web on June 20th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Wiki Vet, Canine Brain Cross Section Courtesy of BioMed Image Archive, Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial No-Derivatives 3.0 License.

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Scolding A Guilty Looking Dog After the Fact

December 1, 2016June 19, 2016 by Admin

It’s a typical scene many dog owners are familiar with: they come home from work only to find a mess of chewed up pillows around the house, so they angrily look at their dog, recognize a guilty look on his face and therefore decide to reprimand their dog telling him in an authoritative tone of voice what a bad boy he is. The dog, ears back, and tail tucked between the legs, walks away from the room with his head low in search of a safe place to retreat until his owner calms down. As much as this scene sounds familiar and appears to make sense, there’s something seriously amiss about it: the poor dog has likely no clue what he’s being punished for!

That “Guilty Look” in Dogs

“How can my dog have no clue about what he’s being punished for when there’s undeniable proof all around him and there’s the word “guilty” written all across his face?” dog owners may ask.

If you have seen that “guilty look” before, rest assured you’re in good company. According to Scientific American, 74 percent of dog owners have a strong belief that their dogs experience guilt.

But first things first, let’s take a closer look at the “guilty face.”At a first glance, we may assume the dog knows he did something wrong because, the moment we notice the mess, our dog flattens his ears, tucks his tail under, lowers his body, or perhaps lifts a paw and avoids eye contact, behaviors we associate with guilt.

However, this is just our interpretation, a mere assumption that insinuates in our minds because as humans we may have behaved in a similar fashion in similar circumstances. The below reasoning is indeed quite common among many dog owners.

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““I behave in a particular way when I feel guilty; my dog behaves in a similar way in equivalent circumstances; I know intuitively that my behaviour is motivated by guilt; therefore the behaviour I see in my dog is also accompanied by feelings of guilt” ~Bradshaw and Casey, 2007

Can Dogs Feel Guilt?

In reality though, things are quite different when we step away from out anthropomorphic views, which means ascribing human traits to animals, and that often includes our canine companions.

First off, we know that dogs are capable of feeling several basic emotions such as joy, fear, anger, disgust, and likely, also love.

However, according to Stanley Coren, current research at this time seems to suggest that dogs are not capable of feeling more complex emotions such as guilt, pride and shame.

Turns out, these emotions “require a level of self-awareness that has been difficult to demonstrate even in chimpanzees” explain Bradshaw and Casey.

What Studies Say

There are several studies that have paved the path towards a better understanding of what’s behind that “guilty look” in dogs. Vollmer, back in 1977, conducted a study that suggested that a dog’s guilty behavior was simply a conditioned response elicited by the presence of the owner and a notable stimulus. In the study owners were asked to shred a paper, leave, and then come back home. Upon their return, dogs were found to show “guilt-like” behaviors despite the fact they did nothing wrong!

Another study conducted by Horowitz in 2009 revealed that the “guilty look” occurs as a dog’s response to owner cues, rather than an appreciation of a misdeed. Indeed, the “guilty look” tended to pop out much more when the owner scolded the dog and it was displayed with more intensity when the dog did not engage in any “transgression.“

A later study by J. Hecht, Á. Miklósi, M. Gásci in 2012, revealed that when dogs exhibited guilty behaviors upon greeting their owners, this wasn’t necessarily a reliable indicator of whether or not a dog engaged in a misdeed. And finally, a study conducted in 2015, by Ljerka Ostojić, Mladenka Tkalčić, Nicola S. Clayton, also showed further potential evidence that a dog’s “guilty look” doesn’t necessarily correspond with a dog’s knowledge of a misdeed.

If Not Guilt Then What?

So if my dog isn’t feeling guilt, why is acting as if he was? What’s likely happening in this scenario is that, our dogs, as some studies have demonstrated, are simply responding to our anger and frustration, and what we interpret as a “guilty look,” are just these dogs’ way to manifest an appeasement/fear response.

Dogs are very sensitive to our bodily cues and can easily sense when we’re feeling upset about something so they may respond accordingly, using their body language (what we interpret as the guilty look) in hopes of calming us down and hopefully avoid punishment.

But what about dogs who look guilty even before even being scolded? Another possibility is that dogs are reacting to things in their environment that have been associated in the past with the owner delivering punishment, explains Certified Clinical Animal Behaviourist (CCAB) Stephanie Hedges in the book “Practical Canine Behaviour: For Veterinary Nurses and Technicians.”

The guilty look therefore becomes a learned, ritualized behavior that has been associated with certain environmental cues and punishment and that’s therefore used in hopes of avoiding it.

So the presence of a shredded paper on the floor could become a predictor of a potential upcoming scolding. “Evidence + Owner = Trouble” says primatologist Frans de Waal, in the book “Good Natured: The Origins of Right and Wrong in Humans and Other Animals.” And according to the quote by de Waal below, that appeasing look seems to actually work to avoid it!

“In a questionnaire with study participants, I found that nearly 60% of owners surveyed reported that the dog’s “guilty look” led them to scold their dog less.”~Frans de Waal

A Matter of Bad Timing

So now that we know what’s truly going on with that guilty face, it’s time to understand why your dog has no clue of what he’s being scolded for.

Unless you caught your dog in the act, you aren’t punishing your dog for his misbehavior, but whatever he’s doing at the moment you punish him, explains dog trainer and behavior consultant Jolanta Benal.

So when you scold your dog upon opening the door saying “Hey! You managed to chew all the pillows, you bad, bad boy!” your dog will perceive he’s being punished for looking at you or walking towards the door to greet you or anything else he’s doing at the moment.

On top of that, since he most likely has no recollection of carrying out the forbidden act carried out several minutes or hours prior, you’ll come across as an unpredictable being who sometimes comes home in a good mood and other times not, which can be very confusing to a dog and stressful too.

So no wonder why he’ll be showing more and more appeasing behaviors the moment you open that door! You can almost hear these dogs say something in the terms of “Will my owner be happy or upset? When in doubt, better be safe and show some appeasement!”

The next question though is, how can the dog not recall carrying out the forbidden act done a couple of hours ago, but then he seems to have no trouble remembering the punishment you delivered triggering appeasement behaviors for your future homecomings? There’s likely a good explanation coming from a recent study focusing on an animal’s abilities on recollecting past events.

The study found that animals tend to have specialized memory systems that are hardwired to store “biologically relevant information” that’s related to their own survival, comfort and safety. So while your dog may not be able to recall playing fetch yesterday or chewing up your shoes hours ago, he’ll have a better time remembering where he buried his bone or any scary past events such as that painful jab at the vet or your angered face upon coming back home and finding the remote in pieces.

So What to Do Instead?

First off, it’s important to avoid engaging in harmful anthropomorphic beliefs as it can lead to misinterpretations and even the onset of behavior problems. “Such beliefs appear to contribute to the development of behavioural disorders in pets, for example, clinical experience suggests that the application of punishment by owners who attribute ‘guilt’ to their animals may unwittingly lead to compromised welfare” warn Bradshaw and Casey.

So what should dog owners do when they find their expensive shoes all chewed up or the couch throws and pillows reduced into a zillion pieces? A good place to start is to take a deep breath and count to 10, and seriously evaluate what measures can be taken to keep these items out of reach and prevent future occurrences.

Simply take a step back and evaluate what you can do to prevent your dog from making future mistakes, suggests Jolanta Benal. And while you are at it, take time to also evaluate what may have triggered the destructive behavior in the first place.

Maybe Rover is teething and needs more appropriate chew toys? Perhaps he needs more exercise and mental stimulation? Can stress be a trigger? For sure, those scoldings won’t teach your dog anything as Julie Hecht explains clearly in the quote below!

“Sadly, scolding dogs after the fact most often doesn’t decrease future bad behavior. If anything, the ‘guilty look’ could just become more exaggerated over time as your confused companion develops an anxious cycle of destruction and appeasement.” ~Julie Hecht

References:

Bradshaw, JWS; Casey, RA, Anthropomorphism and anthropocentrism as influences in the quality of life of companion animals, : Animal Welfare, Volume 16, Supplement 1, May 2007, pp. 149-154(6)
Vollmer, P., 1977. Do mischievous dogs reveal their guilt? Vet. Med. Small Anim. Clin. 72, 1002–1005
Horowitz, A. Disambiguating the guilty look: salient prompts to a familiar dog behaviour. Behav. Process. 2009;81:447–452.
J. Hecht, Á. Miklósi, M. Gásci, Behavioral assessment and owner perceptions of behaviors associated with guilt in dog, Appl. Anim. Behav. Sci., 139 (2012), pp. 134–142
Ljerka Ostojić, Mladenka Tkalčić, Nicola S. Clayton, Are owners’ reports of their dogs’ ‘guilty look’ influenced by the dogs’ action and evidence of the misdeed? Behavioural Processes, Volume 111, February 2015, Pages 97–100
Practical Canine Behaviour: For Veterinary Nurses and Technicians, by Stephanie Hedges, CABI Publishing; 1 edition (11 July 2014)
Scientific American, The Guilty Looking Companion, retrieved from the web on June 19th, 2016
Lind J, Enquist M, Ghirlanda S, Animal memory: A review of delayed matching-to-sample data, Behav Processes. 2015 Aug;117:52-8. doi: 10.1016/j.beproc.2014.11.019. Epub 2014 Dec 9.
The Huffington Post, Sorry, But Your Dog Can’t Remember That Fun Game Of Fetch, retrieved from the web on June 19th, 2016.

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Surprise, These Dog Breeds Are Likely to Sink Rather Than Swim

June 27, 2016June 18, 2016 by Admin

Dog owners may sometimes take a dog’s ability to swim for granted, only to get an abrupt wake-up call when they find their dog struggling in the water, risking to sink like a stone rather than staying buoyant as expected. Sure, when dogs are introduced to a body of water the very first time, they may have an instinct to “doggy paddle” but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are the canine version of mermaids who will safely swim and stay afloat for any determined period of time! Turns out though, that more than a matter of ability or willpower, it’s sometimes a matter of conformation when it comes to certain dog breeds who are more likely to sink rather than float.

Floating Mermaid or Sinking Stone?

What makes a dog an efficient swimmer while another can barely stay afloat? It’s often a combination of various factors, but conformation plays a big role. Several dog breeds were selectively bred to work in the water so they boast traits that helped them excel in their water-related tasks. Labrador retrievers, Chesapeake bay retrievers, Portuguese water dogs, Newfoundlands and poodles are examples of dogs that generally make excellent swimmers. These dogs are agile, and often showcase distinctive traits such as webbed feet , strong legs, water-repellent coats and thick tails that works as rudders, allowing them to efficiently swim in the water. However, just because a dog was selectively bred for work in the water in their past, doesn’t necessarily mean he will come to instinctively love water and know how to swim when introduced to water the very first time. Just like people, dogs come with individual variances even with a breed.

On the other hand, there are many dog breeds who were not selectively bred for work in the water, but who do manage to swim if the need arises. These dogs may need a little assistance, but once they get a hang of being in the water and swimming, they seem to to manage. And then, we have dog breeds, which, due their conformation may be prone to serious challenges when it comes to staying afloat, and if they really must go for a boat ride, they better have a flotation device to help keep them from drowning. Hey, pass that life jacket for Rover would you?

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A Matter of Conformation

What makes certain dog breeds sink rather than float? As mentioned, it’s often a matter of conformation. While several dog breeds have been selectively bred for working in the water, selective breeding has also yielded certain types of dogs that have been shaped for other purposes and this has contributed to the loss of the “tools” necessary for making good swimmers. Generally, dogs that have large, heavy chests in relation to their hindquarters and short noses are going to have problems, explains veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker in an article for Vet Street. Following are some dog breeds that have a reputation for making poor swimmers.

Dog Breeds That Make Poor Swimmers

Following is a list of dog breeds that are likely to make poor swimmers and tend to have the buoyancy of cinder blocks. While we are aware that there may be sometimes exceptions to the rule with certain breeds, the general consensus seems to be that it’s best to practice caution with these fellows as some may get easily tired after a little paddling which can generate panic and lead to circumstances that can cause potential drowning. If you have a pool, your best bet is to fence it off, so to protect these fellows. Some dog owners though provide these dogs with a life jacket so these pooches can get to enjoy supervised time in the water with their owners.

Basset Hounds. These dogs struggle in the water because of their short legs and overall low, heavy structure. Indeed, basset hounds have such dense bones, they’ll drop like a stone in water, claims Animal Planet. The breed standard set by the American Kennel Club describes basset hounds as being heavier in bone, size considered, than any other breed of dog. According to Dog Time, two thirds of the basset’s weight is distributed in the front of this dog’s body, a trait that predisposes these dogs to drowning.
Bulldogs. This breed has a reputation for not being able to swim, so much so that some bulldog breeders refuse to sell their puppies to families who have pools, explains Susan M. Ewing in the book “Bulldogs For Dummies” The problem with these dogs is that they have a limited range of motion in their shoulders and their big, heavy chests make lifting their front paws high for the purpose of paddling quite difficult. On top of that, they tend to have breathing difficulties, and once in the water, they may struggle to lift their heads high enough so to avoid water going up their nose, explains Susan deGozzaldi in the book “The Olympic Bulldog.“
Pugs. There are pugs who can manage to swim (somewhat!) while others will simply sink like rocks. Best to assume the latter though and not take the risk of exposing these dogs to a scary experience in the water that can leave long-lasting emotional scars. Fact is, swimming for pugs can be quite a strenuous activity. Their heavy, barrel-shaped bodies makes swimming quite a challenge, so even though pugs may enjoy time in the water, swimming should be limited to a few brief minutes to prevent exhaustion, explains Linda Whitwam in the book “The Complete Pug Handbook: The Essential Guide For New & Prospective Pug Owners.” On top of their heavy body shapes, pugs also have short faces, which makes them prone to fatigue easily.
Dachshunds. Dachshunds also fall in the “iffy”category when it comes to swimming. With their long backs, short legs and short necks (that may be a challenge to keep above the water,) these dogs are not really built for the task. Sure there are some doxies who have taken a liking to swimming and brief swimming sessions are sometimes suggested by vets as a helpful non-weight bearing activity for dachshunds suffering from spinal injuries, but extra caution is always needed to keep these fellows safe.
Toy breeds. While many toy breeds can swim decently, it should be pointed out that they are prone to easily chill, so owners should keep an eye on small dog’s vital signs and watch for shivering, point out M. Christine Zink and Janet B. Van Dyke, in the book “Canine Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation.”

Did you know? When it comes to swimming styles in dogs, a study conducted by Frank Fish, biologist at Pennsylvania’s West Chester University, found that dogs despite dogs coming in vastly different sizes and showing substantial variations in gait, when it comes to swimming, they tend to share a universal swimming stroke that is more akin to a run than a trot.

Watch this Dog’s Swimming Stroke

References:

Vet Street, Can all dogs swim?, retrieved from the web on June 18th, 2016
Dogs’ Miscellany: Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Man’s Best Friend, By J. A. Wines, Michael O’Mara; 1 edition (April 1, 2014)
Bulldogs For Dummies, By Susan M. Ewing, For Dummies; 1 edition (January 4, 2006)
The Olympic Bulldog, By Susan deGozzaldi, Xlibris (6 Feb. 2013)
The Complete Pug Handbook: The Essential Guide For New & Prospective Pug Owners, By Linda Whitwam, CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform (September 29, 2015)
Canine Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation, by M. Christine Zink, Janet B. Van Dyke, Wiley-Blackwell; 1 edition (April 22, 2013)
F.E. Fish and N.K. Dinenno. The ‘dog paddle’: stereotypic swimming gait pattern in different dog breeds. Society for Integrative and Comparative Biology Annual Meeting, Austin, Texas, January 5, 2014.)
Science News, Dog-paddle science debunks notion of underwater trot, retrieved from the web on June 18th, 2016
Inside Science, Scientists Dive Into The Mystery Of The Dog Paddle, retrieved from the web on June 18th, 2016

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Four Ways Dogs Cool Down in the Heat

March 15, 2022June 17, 2016 by Admin

With the dog days of summer around the corner, discovering how dogs cool down in the heat is important so to raise awareness about the risks of heatstroke in dogs. Hyperthermia (high temperature) takes place when the dog’s internal temperature reaches abnormally high levels which can quickly kill a dog if measures to cool the dog down aren’t taken promptly. One of the most common heat-related killers of dogs is being left in a car where temperatures can easily skyrocket in a matter of minutes, but there are other risks too such as exercising in exceedingly hot, humid weather. Dogs who are old, obese, have short noses or thick coats or dogs who suffer from underlying heart disease, respiratory disorders or neurological conditions are more likely to suffer heat stroke as these conditions decrease their ability to cool down. Knowledge is ultimately power when it comes to understanding how dogs cool down in the summer heat.

A Matter of Homeostasis

Our bodies and the bodies of our dogs are designed in such a way as to efficiently maintain an ideal internal core temperature. For sake of comparison,we can compare this ability to the function of a thermostat with a gauge that ensures the interior temperature of a home stays at a constant level.

Just like a thermostat, the internal temperature of our dog’s body is constantly monitored, but instead of a gauge, the anterior hypothalamus (the dog’s official thermo-regulatory center) helps maintain the body temperature within a certain range.

Should the dog’s temperature drop, measures take place so that the dog is warmed up, and should the temperature rise, measures take place so that the dog is cooled down.

The ability of the body to take measures so to return to its ideal internal core temperature is known as “thermoregulation” while the maintenance of the internal temperature is known as “homeostasis.”

A dog’s body therefore maintains itself in a state of homeostasis when it’s kept within its normal temperature range of 101 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. An increase of the dog’s internal temperature can be due to the presence of a fever (pyrogenic hyperthermia) or exposure to external heat (non-pyrogenic hyperthermia) as seen when dogs are exposed to hot environments.

Four Ways Dogs Cool Down

Fortunately, dogs can cool down in several ways when it’s hot outside. We mostly think dogs cool down by panting, but they actually can also cool down in other ways. Acknowledging these other ways dogs can cool down can help dog owners and trainers better understand signs of problems, the importance of prompt treatment and how to prevent dogs from overheating in the first place.

Cooling Down Through Evaporation

When we think of a dog that feels hot, we often think of a dog that is actively panting so to cool down. With the mouth open, long tongue hanging down and loud, rapid breathing, the dog uses evaporation as his main way of quickly cooling down.

Dogs, like other animals covered by fur have limited ability to sweat, (they have only a few sweat glands on their feet but these are mostly meant to increase friction and enhance grip) so panting remains their primary method to cool down by increasing the evaporation of water across the moist surfaces of their mouth and tongue.

Since blood flows through the mouth and tongue, once the blood cools down, it reaches the rest of the dog’s body and thus, lowers the dog’s core temperature.

While panting can be effective when surrounding temperatures reach 89.6 degrees, it becomes much less efficient when there are high levels of humidity (consider that at humidity levels greater than 80 percent, panting is no longer efficient).

Did you know? According to Dukes’ Physiology of Domestic Animals, when dogs pant, their breathing increases to about 200 to 400 breaths per minute. That’s a whole lot considering that normal breathing rate in dogs is 30 to 40 breaths per minute!

Cooling Down Through Conduction

Conduction takes place when heat is transferred from one object to another.

In this case, the dog seeks out contact with a cool surface. Rover didn’t have to take a special class to learn what’s best for him when you find him lying down flat, in the Superman position, on a cool tiled floor during those dog days of summer.

Since most dogs have sparsely distributed hairs on their tummies, direct tummy contact is a fast way to effectively cool down.

Here’s a summer tip if you want to make your dog extra happy: provide him access to a tiled area such as the bathroom or kitchen, or if your dog loves the outdoors, let him dig a cool spot under the shade to sleep in.

Cooling Down Through Convection

Convection involves contact with air movement to help speed up loss of heat. When Rover sticks his head out of the car window on a hot summer day, he may be doing more than satisfying his senses.

Chances are, he enjoys the sensation of air flowing through his coat and deep inside he instinctively knows that’s another good way to cool down from the summer heat.

Dogs also seem to know that strategically placing themselves in front a fan or AC or lying down besides the door, grants them access to some cool cross breezes that can feel refreshing.

These strategies ultimately helps the dog transfer the heat from his body to the air.

In the next paragraphs, we will see how convection along with evaporation is one of the best ways to cool down dogs in a case of hyperthermia.

Cooling Down Through Radiation

Finally, dogs can cool down through radiation which takes place when the dog’s body heat dissipates into the environment.

Basically, courtesy of blood circulation, the dog’s blood vessels will dilate so the excess heat is carried away from the interior of the body towards the exterior surface causing an elevation of the dog’s skin temperature.

This way, the hot blood is brought closer to the surface radiating the dog’s internal body heat into the environment.

While this can technically be an effective means of thermoregulation, problems start when the surrounding environment reaches the same temperature as the body, preventing the dog from cooling down.

” More than 70% of the total body heat loss in dogs is dissipated through radiation and convection from body surfaces. As the environmental temperature increases, approaching body temperature, evaporation, primarily through panting, becomes more important in maintaining normothermia.”~ Dr. Yaron Bruchim

Importance of First Aid

As seen, even though the dog’s body will take steps to prevent heat stroke, sometimes things don’t go as they should.

Dogs suffering from heat stroke will breathe rapidly, show pin-point bleeding on the skin (petechiae), blood in their vomit and/or stools, thick saliva, red or pale gums, and show signs of shock, disorientation or seizures.

Knowing what to do if you suspect heat stroke in your dog is of paramount importance as treatment should be initiated as early as making that phone call to the vet to tell him you’re on your way.

According to a study carried out by Drobatz KJ and Macintire DK, the prognosis was significantly better when dogs were actively cooled down before arriving at the hospital. These dogs had a lower mortality rate (19%) compared to dogs that weren’t cooled prior to arrival (49%). According to Today’s Veterinary Practice, an effective cooling method combines evaporative and convective cooling and entails applying cool or tepid water (avoid ice) to the dog’s skin while directing a fan towards the dog.

According to Vet Learn Compendium after applying cool water, while driving towards the hospital, evaporation can be attained by opening the windows or using the car’s AC. Cooling efforts on route to the vet should be stopped once the dog’s body temperature reaches 103.5°F to 104°F (have a helper check it every 5 minutes) so to avoid rebound hypothermia.

An Ounce of Prevention

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, the saying goes. Heat stroke can be prevented by taking a few safety precautions when the dog days of summer are in full swing. Here are few tips to prevent heat stroke in dogs:

Ensure that outdoor dogs have always access to shade and drinking water
Avoid exercising dogs on hot, humid days.
Pick the cooler periods of the day for walks and training such as early morning or late evening.
Leaving dogs alone in closed vehicles is like putting them in an oven and leaving them to bake.
If you recently moved to a warmer climate, give your dog up to 2 months to acclimate.
If your dog has been panting a lot, remember to provide fresh water to help him compensate for the evaporation.
Consider that dogs prone to stress or who get hyped-up easily tend to overheat more quickly compared to calmer dogs.
Avoid plastic crates that restrict air-flow.
See your vet even though your dog seems to be recovering from hyperthermia. There are serious complications that may set in even if your dog seems to be feeling better.

Disclaimer: this article is not intended to be used a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If you suspect your dog has heat stroke, consult with your vet at once and follow his recommendations.

References:

Epstein, Y. and Roberts, W.O.: The pathophysiology of Heat stroke: An integrative view on the final common pathway. Scand. J. Med. Sci. Sports. 21: 742-748, 2011. 4.
Reiniker, A. and Mann, F.M.: Understanding and treating heat stroke. Vet. Med. 4: 344-355, 2002.
Flournoy, S.W., Wohl, J.S. and Macintire, D.K.: Heatstroke in dogs: pathophysiology and predisposing factors. Comp. Cont. Educ. Pract. Vet. 25: 410-418, 2003.
Canine Heatstroke Bruchim, Y. Koret School of Veterinary Medicine, Robert H. Smith Faculty of Agriculture, Food and Environment, Hebrew University of Jerusalem, Rehovot, Israel.
Dukes’ Physiology of Domestic Animals, 12th Edition 12th Edition, by William O. Reece, Comstock Publishing Associates; 12 edition (July 29, 2004)
Drobatz KJ, Macintire DK. Heat-induced illness in dogs: 42 cases (1976-1993). JAVMA 1996; 209(11):1894-1899.
Today’s Veterinary Practice, Today’s Technician: Heatstroke in Dogs, retrieved from the web on June 17th, 2016

Curbing A Dog’s Oral Fixation

June 27, 2016June 16, 2016 by Admin

Just like humans, dogs can develop an oral fixation which means that they are stuck with an obsession of engaging in behaviors involving oral stimulation that persists past puppy hood. However, unlike humans, dogs won’t be stuck smoking, biting their nails or drinking alcoholic drinks. When dogs develop an oral fixation, it often entails chewing and licking inappropriately, a behavior that can often have annoying repercussions that can negatively affect the human-animal companion bond.

Normal Puppy Stage

Puppies, just like human children, go through an oral fixation stage during which they are very prone to mouthing objects. This is a normal part of a puppy’s development as the puppy explores and investigates his surrounding environment with his mouth. During this time, puppies are often attracted to eating feces, which can become a problem if this normal curiosity is addressed incorrectly.

It’s best to encourage the puppy’s oral investigation towards appropriate items such as chew toys and food dispensing puzzles. If you punish the puppy or give him excessive attention when he engages in the poop-eating behavior, there are chances that the behavior will be reinforced, warns Donna Spector, a board-certified veterinarian specializing in Internal Medicine.

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Stuck in a Phase

As mentioned, certain happenings throughout a dog’s life can cause a dog’s oral fixation to persist past puppy hood. According to Stephanie Hedges, Certified Clinical Animal Behaviourist (CCAB), frustration may derive when natural reflexes aren’t allowed to take place. For instance, puppies who are prevented from suckling naturally may develop abnormalities such as oral fixations in adult life. Compulsive licking and sucking can therefore happen when puppies are weaned too early or in puppies who are orphaned and bottle fed at an early age.

On top of that, consider genetics, Golden retrievers are very oral dogs by nature considering that they have a retrieving heritage. “From pups to senior, most goldens love to have something in their mouths,” observes Nona Kilgore Bauer in her book “The Golden Retriever.” Doberman pinschers are notorious for having a history of blanket and flank sucking that may originate from an insatiable suckling drive. Flank and blanket sucking behaviors tend to occur prior to sexual maturity and they seem to precipitated by anxiety or stress. Soon, the behavior puts roots and starts taking place even in the absence of obvious stressors, explains Dr. Nicholoas Dodman, a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

Before Things Get Out of Hand

When a behavior shows signs of starting to get out of hand, it’s important to nip it in the bud before it puts roots and becomes established. If you therefore notice that your dog suckles, mouths, licks, chews or performs any other behavior more often than normal, it’s in your dog’s best interest to get help right away. Following are some tips for puppies or dogs who have just started manifesting signs of oral fixation:

Start with a medical check up. A new interest in sucking, mouthing and chewing behavior may stem from a medical problem. A dental problem, gastro-intestinal upset, neurological disorder or pain due to a joint or spinal problem, may cause a renewed interest in mouthing stuff. Pica, the eating of non-edible items such as dirt, rocks or underwear, can also be caused by underlying medical conditions.
On top of going through a stage during which puppies mouth to explore, around 4 months of age puppies are teething and they may seek, out things to chew to get relief. It’s important to provide puppies with acceptable, age appropriate chewing items during this time, explains veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker in the book “Your Dog: The Owner’s Manual: Hundreds of Secrets, Surprises, and Solutions for Raising a Happy, Healthy Dog.” A wet rag that is twisted and then frozen, can provide a soothing “chew toy” for teething pups. Another option is to fill a Kong with peanut butter and chilling it.
Provide active dogs with more exercise, training and mental stimulation. Boredom may trigger the onset of undesired behaviors and these may include the development of an oral fixation. Providing an enriched environment with chew toys and interactive feeders is a must with such dogs.
Don’t dismiss the effects of stress too! A stressed dog may seek out mouthing and chewing inappropriate items as a way to relieve tension. DAP (Dog Appeasement Pheromone) diffusers, collars or spray bottles can turn helpful in relieving stress, explains veterinarian Jennifer L. Scott.
Redirect inappropriate mouthing behaviors to alternate activities and use counter-conditioning techniques with the aid of a professional.
Breeders should avoid weaning puppies too early. Should a puppy be weaned or lose his mother very early, he may start suckling objects feel as he seeks comfort, just like a thumb-sucking child.
It’s important to redirect displaced, self-calming nursing behaviors directed towards inappropriate objects to more acceptable ones such as puzzle toys stuffed with tempting doggie treats. Alternate behaviors, other than the inappropriate suckling, should be rewarded with treats and praise.
Moderate to severe cases may require the intervention of a dog behavior professional to institute behavior modification, possibly accompanied by prescription medications.

References:

Creature Comforts, Why Does My Dog Eat Poop? by Dr. Donna Spector, retrieved from the web on June 16th, 2016
Reader’s Digest, Ask the Expert: Dog’s Oral Fixation Dangerous? retrieved from the web on June 16th, 2016
Golden Retriever, by Nona Kilgore Bauer, Hispano Europea Editorial; 3 edizione (13 novembre 2006)
Your Dog: The Owner’s Manual: Hundreds of Secrets, Surprises, and Solutions for Raising a Happy, Healthy Dog Hardcover – Marty Becker (Author), Gina Spadafori, Grand Central Life & Style (April 15, 2011)
Practical Canine Behaviour: For Veterinary Nurses and Technicians, by Stephanie Hedges, CABI Publishing; 1 edition (11 July 2014)

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Dog Word of the Day: Nystagmus

June 27, 2016June 15, 2016 by Admin

Today’s dog word of the day is “nystagmus” a neurological term that dog owners may stumble upon when their vet refers to their dog’s abnormal eye movement. This is a condition that can occur in humans as well and can be quite alarming to witness as it is often accompanied by other concerning symptoms. Nystagmus is often seen in senior dogs, but it can occasionally occur in younger dogs as well. This article as any other of our other article tackling health topics, is not meant to be used as substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your dog is experiencing signs of nystagmus, please see your vet.

What’s Going On?

Nystagmus entails involuntary (not under the dog’s control) eye movements also known as “dancing eyes.” These eye movements are mostly side-to-side with up and down eye movements being less common. What causes these abnormal eye movements in dogs? It’s mostly a matter of something going on with the dog’s vestibular system. The vestibular system includes parts of the dog’s inner ear and brain responsible for processing sensory information involved with controlling balance and eye movements. It also helps coordinate eye movement with head movement. In a healthy dog, when the dog turns his head to right, the eyes move to the left, and when the dog turns his head to the left, the eyes move to the right. This is known as the vestibular-ocular reflex.

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Problems start when the eyes are darting back and forth occur despite the head being motionless. When this happens, it’s therefore often indicative of a problem with the dog’s vestibular system. The eye movements aren’t always obviously noticeable, therefore, in some cases, dog owners will need to keep their dog’s head completely still and look at the eyes to notice it.

Causes of Nystagmus

What can cause abnormal eye movements in dogs? Since the dog’s inner ear is related to the dog’s vestibular system, any disease or injury involving it such as an ear infection involving the inner ear could lead to symptoms such as nystagmus along with balance and neurological symptoms (staggering, drunk-like gait, tilted head, falling over). Another common cause of nystagmus in older dogs is vestibular disease also known as “Geriatric Canine Idiopathic Vestibular Syndrome.” Other possible causes of eyes darting back and forth may include head traumas, cancers affecting the dog’s brain or inner ear, low thyroid levels and acute inflammation of the brain.

Did you know? Dogs with nystagmus may tilt or turn their head so that they can see more clearly.

A dog with nystagmus

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The Mystery Behind the Dachshund’s Long Body

June 27, 2016June 14, 2016 by Admin

We are used to seeing a dachshund’s long body so much that we have nicknamed this dog breed as the “sausage dog” or “wiener dog” but why are these dogs’ bodies so long in the first place? If we look at this breed, we cant stop noticing how its body is shaped so differently from many other dog breeds. The “hot dog on legs” feature of this breed is not casual though, but is actually there for a reason. So today’s trivia question is:

Why is a dachshund’s body so long?

A: So he can fit inside the sleeves of royalty

B: So he can burrow himself in hiding spots

C: So he can curl up and burrow under blankets

D: So he can effectively enter a badger’s burrow

The Correct Answer is: Drum roll please………

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The correct answer is D: so he can effectively enter a badger’s burrow.

A Lesson in Anatomy

The dachshund dog breed is categorized as being “chondrodysplastic.” Chondro means “cartilage” and dysplasia means “abnormal growth.” Put these two words together and you will get abnormal growth of cartilage. In this case, it mostly refers to the cartilage of the dachshund’s legs which appear to be shorter than usual. Other breeds sharing such conformation include the corgi, basset hound and Pekingese. Also known as “dwarfism,” this characteristic is desired in the dachshund breed standard which, according to the American Kennel Club, calls for a dog that is “low to ground, long in body and short of leg.” However, in certain dog breeds, chondrodysplasia is highly frowned upon as it can have crippling consequences, and as such, is considered a serious fault.

Burrowing with the Badgers

The Dachshund Club of America claims that the dachshund dog breed was born in Germany when foresters in the 18th or 19th century were seeking out a dog breed that could fearlessly fight badgers. The dachshund has the perfect conformation for the task. His short paddle-shaped legs could effectively dig while his long, low-to-the ground body could easily access the burrows. The rest is offered by a dachshund’s courageous, temperament, loud bark (so hunters could easily locate him) and well-developed senses, which make him particularly suitable for the task. There is also belief that this breed’s long, sturdy tail must have worked as a “handle” to pull these fellows out of the burrow.

Still as of today, dachshunds remind us of their past, when they dig in the yard or burrow themselves under tunnels made of blankets!

References:

American Kennel Club, Dachshund breed standard, retrieved from the web on June 13th, 2016
Dachshund Club of America, retrieved from the web on June 13th, 2016

Photo Credits:

Natedog, Photo by Jessica (Jessadactyl) CC BY-SA 3.0

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I am Your Dog’s Meniscus

June 27, 2016June 13, 2016 by Admin

You may have never heard about your dog’s meniscus, or you may have heard it the very first time when your vet took an x-ray and noticed some damage to this structure. Truth is, the dog’s meniscus is a body part that lives for the most part in the shadow, but that can awaken abruptly though when it starts to give problems. So today, we’ll be learning more about this structure, it’s function and the symptoms it may cause when dogs are hurting in this area, but as usual, we’ll let the dog’s meniscus do most of the talking.

Introducing The Dog’s Meniscus

Hello, my name is meniscus and I am a”C-shaped” structure found right by your dog’s hind knee, but to be more correct, let’s call it your dog’s stifle. To be exact, I sit right between your dog’s tibia and femur where special ligaments just like seat belts keep me nicely strapped in place. What does my name mean? Meniscus derives from the ancient Greek word meniskos which means “lunar crescent.” I likely got my name because my shape closely resembles a half moon. You may be interested in learning that the plural of meniscus is menisci, considering that there are actually two of us by your dog’s tibia: the inner side one is called the “medial meniscus” while the outer side one is called the “lateral meniscus.”

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I Act as a Shock Absorber

I am made of porous material but tend to release synovial fluid when I am compressed so that the surface of your dog’s femur and tibia glide together and don’t risk being damaged by friction. My shock absorbing effect therefore allows your dog to romp happily without worrying about those joint structures getting damaged.

When Things Go Wrong

When everything goes well, I keep those joints nicely lubricated and your dog romps happily about without ever noticing me. However, sometimes I can give signs of trouble, especially when your dog’s tibia and femur is no longer stable at it should be. This tends to happen when there is some sort of injury to the dog’s anterior cruciate ligament tear that stabilizes the joint. When this happens, I may get wedged in between these unstable parts, which is often seen happening with the medial meniscus which is less mobile compared to the lateral one, explains Ann L. Johnson, Dianne Dunning in the book “Atlas of Orthopedic Surgical Procedures of the Dog and Cat” Repeated friction of me can therefore lead to the early onset of degenerative joint disease, and if I move about repeatedly, I can also cause damage to the dog’s femur bone. Common signs of damage to me include hind leg pain and lameness in dogs. Stabilizing the joint is therefore key to minimizing damage.

Did you know? According to Douglas H. Slatter, author of the book “Textbook of Small Animal Surgery Volume I, statistically, dogs with a partial ligament tear have quite a low chance for developing meniscus damage; whereas, dogs with complete tears have an 80 percent chance for developing this complication.

I hope this article has helped you understand me better. As seen, I am quite an important structure! So if your dog’s knee for some reason or another becomes unstable, keep in mind the risk for potential damage to me and neighboring structures. Your dog’s knee and I will thank you! Yours respectfully,

Your Dog’s Meniscus

Photo Credits;

Dog meniscus damage and tear.Source: By Mysid [Public domain], Wikimedia Commons

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Four Ways Dog Owners Make Dogs Hate Baths

June 27, 2016June 12, 2016 by Admin

Does your dog hate bath-time and hides under the bed the moment he sees you turn the faucet on and grab the towels? If so, rest assured, you are not alone. Countless dogs dread bath time and if we put ourselves in Rover’s shoes we can see that his fear isn’t irrational at all. While we perceive bath-time as a way to relax and smell good, for dogs things can be quite different. So today, we’ll be discovering several reasons as to why dogs hate baths, and the dog’s owners approach is often to blame.

1) Lack of Exposure

There is a reason why breeders, trainers and many books discuss the importance of early socialization in puppies. During a brief sensitive period known as “puppy socialization” puppies are exposed to a variety of stimuli that they will experience throughout their lives so they can accept them and adapt. However, water and rain seems to often be an overlooked stimulus that dog owners often miss.

We tend to avoid puddles, avoid walking in the rain and when we get wet we make a big deal of it. Water and the process of getting wet should be made a fun and an enjoyable experience. Fail to do this, and you may end up paving the path for a water-phobic dog, simple due to fear of the unknown.

2) Forcing the Event

Puppies and dogs need to be exposed to water in a gradual, calm way so to accept it as normal part of life. Forcing the dog to be bathed may lead to cumulative fear and anxiety. Many owners get frustrated and restrain the dog so he has no escape and must endure the whole ordeal without giving them a chance to learn how fun and rewarding being in the water can be. How would you feel if you were fearful of the dentist and you had to be strapped up during the duration of the visit? This would likely only increase your fear. There are not may situations in life that are so rewarding as enticing a dog who is fearful of water to join you at the beach and start playing with waves or with a water hose.

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3) Using Water as Punishment

Another reason dogs may dread water, baths and getting wet in general is using water as punishment. Even though more and more dog trainers and owners are embracing positive, force-free methods for training their dogs, there are still some trainers or dog owners who may recommend squirting dogs with a water pistol to punish them. This often leads to dogs who dread water or getting wet as they associate it with getting startled and perhaps on top of that even their owner’s frustration or anger. Even playfully squirting dogs with water as kids may do when they want to involve Rover in their water games can be traumatic enough for the dog to not want to have anything to do with water in the future.

4) A Scary Stimulus Package

The negative experience with water though may not necessarily stem from the owner’s approach. Bath-time per se’ may encompass several frightening subtleties that can make the whole experience a negative one. For example, the slippery surface of the bath tub, shampoo getting in the ears or eyes, the noise and sensation of water sucked down the drain and the scary hair dryer are just a few components that are part of the bath-time stimulus package. It’s important to be aware of these scary events and turn them into pleasant, fun ones before the fear establishes and puts roots. As the saying goes: “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. “

Tips to Make Dogs Less Fearful of Baths

There are several things dog owners can do to help their dogs overcome their fear of baths. Patience and positive techniques are the building blocks that will pave the path to diminishing fear of water. Here are a few tips to help make dogs less fearful of water:

Start early! If you get a puppy, start exposing him to water, bath time and rain from an early age making it a fun and rewarding experience.
Toys, play and tasty treats introduced in the presence of water can help form positive associations.
Clicker train your dog to target a puddle.
Go gradual in the process. It’s best to arrange mock sessions to make baths fun so when the real need for a bath arises, you are not caught unprepared and your dog has already a history of pleasant experiences.
When it rains lightly, grab that ball or your dog’s favorite fetch toy and engage him in a fun play session under the rain. Once back inside, dry your dog with a cloth and become boring. The rain should become a predictor of good things.
Invest in fun water games made for dogs.
Use only tear-less shampoo and invest in non-slip mats.
This may not be the best option for hygiene freaks, but some owners take a shower with their dogs to make it a pleasant experience.
If your dog hates going into the bath tub, skip the bath tub and try with a light shower or go outdoors and use a hose.
Portable steps may be an option for dogs who hate being lifted and put inside the bath tub.
Get a water hose and start singing silly songs as you squirt the water in many directions and make it look like a fun game. Then, when your dog approaches, grab some treats and make it look as if the water hose is shooting treats out along with water. Afterward, slightly wet your dog with a spritz of water and give a treat right after the water spritz. Spritz, treat, spritz, treat, spritz, treat.
At this point, your dog may be drenched in water. This is a good time to start rubbing in some tear-less shampoo for dogs. Resume the spritz-treat game until your dog’s coat is free of shampoo. Now it’s time to have fun rubbing and drying your pooch.
To make it clear that bath-time and water is what brings on the fun, once you close the faucet and your dog is dry, make all the fun end.

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Is Your Dog Training Stuck in a Pattern Training Hole?

June 27, 2016June 11, 2016 by Admin

When we train our dogs, we may sometimes fall into some mistakes that could easily be avoided, and one of them is pattern training. Why does my dog listen only inside and then when we’re outside on walks he’s in his own world? Why does he perform the exercise well in training classes, but then on walks he acts as if he can’t hear? One possible reason for this is pattern training. Pattern training takes place when you are always training your dog at the same place and under the same circumstances. If you fall into the pattern training hole, your dog will have a hard time generalizing and applying what he has learned to other places and other circumstances.

It Has Its Place and Time

In the initial stages of learning something new, pattern training is helpful in instilling confidence in the dog. For a good reason dog trainers suggest to start training in a quiet room that is free of distractions.

With boring surroundings and some tasty treats, you set your dog for success as he likely has nothing better to do than pay attention to you and do what it takes to earn that tasty treat.

While pattern training your dog in the initial stages of training is helpful and recommended, you want to advance at some point though or you’ll risk getting stuck in a “pattern training hole.”

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“Although it’s important to be consistent when you train your dog, it’s also important to avoid pattern training.”~ John Ross, Barbara McKinney

Possible Draw Backs

What happens if you’re stuck in a pattern training hole? There are several things that can happen. For example, if you are training your dog to sit, down and then stay (always asked in the same order) in your living room every day at 4 o’ clock, your dog, being the routine oriented animal he is, will come to anticipate what you will be asking him and he may start getting a tad bit bored too.

On top of that, you will miss out getting your dog to generalize the cues, which means that the training may break apart that day you make a change such as asking him to perform the cues in different order or in a different place or at a different time.

How to Avoid It

To avoid pattern training your dog, all you need to do is add is start implementing some changes. Once your dog shows signs of understanding the behavior, gradually move from the quiet living room to other areas where there are slightly more distractions.

Try training in the kitchen, then in the yard and then in front of the home or in a quiet park. If at any time your dog appears distracted, you may need to invest in higher value treats to use as rewards. Make sure you reward your dog every single time he completes the exercise in the initial stages when your dog is first introduced to these news challenging places. Also, get creative! When you ask your dog to sit, don’t limit to ask it while your’re standing in front of him! Get him to sit by your side, while you are facing your back to him, while you’re sitting down or even when you are out of sight.

The more you practice under different circumstances, the more fluent the behavior will become. Plus, it will keep your dog on his toes as he will rarely guess what you’ll be asking him next, a win-win!

References:

Dog Talk: Training Your Dog Through A Canine Point Of View Hardcover – April 15, 1995 by John Ross (Author), Barbara McKinney, St. Martin’s Press; Reprint edition (April 15, 1995)

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